The herald. [microfilm reel], December 16, 1894, Page 9, Image 9

About The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900

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Eighth and Fourteenth Eighth and Fourteenth
FASHIONS FOR MEN.
Warner's Bazaar and Vogue, those
two reliable fashion journals, are giving
so much valuable space to the fashions
for men and boys that it will not be
amiss to reprint some of their timely
suggestions for the benefit of the men
here who wish to be appropriately
dressed in the way of fabrio and out; or
that the wives and sisters may read and
tell husbands and brothers who are too
busy to read for themselves, or again,
for mothers of very little men to know
what to buy in the way of garments,
even if the? are not oomnelled to have
their tailoring done at home.
A'o. 1.
The evening or dress suit, which
should be worn to dinners, to the play,
to pay evening calls, and, of course, to
receptions, balls or daucea, should be
made of unfinished worsted or vicuna or
broadcloth. The collar and lapel of the
coat may be covered with silk, or even
velvet, and the collar is notched; a sin
gle button on the sleeves is correct; the
tails are rather long, and are cut Bquare
rathor than in the old pigeon-shape
fashion. Single-breasted waistcoats with
three buttons, cut very low and showing
as much of the shirt front as possible;
white waistcoats ol piquo or eimple.duck
at balls or the theater are permissible;
troueers plain without any braid, on the
seams, and the width i. o as exagger
ated as last year. Putent-laather pumps
and black silk stockings ure indispens
able adjuncts to evening dress. The
evening shirt is vory plain, laundered
without a euspioion of blobs, with either
two or three buttons of white enamel,
pearls or plain gold; collars high and
straight, and informal occasions, or, in
case of a very short neck, the plain turn
over collar may be worn. As to the tie,
a plain lawn tie arranged in a rectangu
lar bow is the smartest, and the plain
black tie of satin or groa grain, also a
rectangular tie for the play or informal
oocastons.
The frock coat this winter la a oom
mon-senße garment, and ia made of vi
cuna or rough worsted. It comes just
below the knees, and the skirts fall at
angles rather than stick out as if they
were hiding a crinoline. It is silk-faced,
not buttoning too high, and with one,
not three, buttons on the sieeves. In
fact, it is the same ooat of a few years
ago, but it is longer and of different ma
terial. Trousers ara almost perfectly
straight and not as full. The materials
and the patterns are about the same
dark cashmeres with small stripes.
There is a revival of the shepherd's
plaid in London. They are in large
checks, black nnd white. These are
considered to be very smart, and tailors
here have bad numerous orders for
them.
Ao. S.
There haa been some attempt to do
away with the oataway coat. The blaok
diagonal, with its two to four buttons,
its rather abbreviated skirt and tail—
this very distinctive garment of the
American —ia no longer of the fashion.
In its place there is one of soft material,
such as the cheviot, the Angola, or a
woolen roughly finished, and so yield
ing as to cling to the figure. This ia of
course copied after the English cut,
which promotes looseness rather than
tightness in fit. It baa three buttons,
and just under the third one it makes a
direct slope for the back. Both akirt
and tail ara quite long, reaching below
the knee.
For general comfort and for wear and
tear there is nothing like the sack suit.
The English oall it the lounge, and
make it loobb and comfortable, choosing
tweeds and woolen goods, and mixed
black and grays and warm browns, and
again cheviots and Scotch designs. In
this they are sensible. The styles in
America are modeled after the London
fashions in sack suits. Neither has un
dergone any change, exoept that the
coats are shorter. It remaiuß without
doubt the most becoming set of gar
ments a man can wear. He actually
lives in them, and he grows to love
them, and he hates to throw them
aside.
There are all kinds and all apeoiei of
overcoats, of many different cuts and
styles and made of various materials,
but there is among them all nothing
like the single-breasted dark blue Mel
ton with a velvet collar. It is a garment
which will always be dressy, it is essen
tially genteel and it is most serviceable.
Tbeße are truly cardinal virtues in a
coat.
An overcoat must always fit easily
over the undercoat, and in its length
have about an inch to spare. The Mcl»
ton Chesterfield, being of a firm, smooth
cloth, never wrinkles if wall made, and
TOS ATTGEEES HERALD SUNDAY MOKNTNCr, DECEMBER 16, 1894.
ia always presentable. It can be pat on
with a high hat, and again with a derby
or a Hombonrg. And yet it is not a
garment which everybody could wear to
the same advantage. Like the well-fit
ting dress coat, it proclaims the gentle
man.
No. S.
The long black coat, made of rough
wonted, lined with silk and with an
Internes! cape; thii ooat ia very loose
and ii the beat thing to wear oyer oven
ing dreaa. It does not disturb the fresb
neaa of the coat on the shirt and looks
well with a silk hat, and a gentleman's
wardrobe can contain no better or more
useful article.
Boots and shoes have had bat little
change. The toea are not pointed, but
rounded, and a stickler for dreaa insists
that the smartest thing for afternoon
wear ie the patent-leather walking boot,
buttoned, bat not laced. Russet shoes
are favorites for the country, and for
rainy weather in the city. They are
also worn a great deal with sack or
business suits, especially if the latter be
brown in color, and always for traveling.
The collar for ordinary occasions iB
moderately nigh and square. The Eton
collar, wbioh turns over so as to preserve
the form of a very high standing one,
is much in vogue among young men,
who wear with it a simple black bow in
way of neck gear. Colored shirts of
peroale and linen, pinks and bines the
favorite hoes, are worn in the morning,
and by some even with frock ooate in
the afternoon. This latter fad ie consid
ered very British, but it smacks of
Cbeapside rather than the West End.
The silk hat of this season is rather
small in the crown and extends up in a
bell-like shape, with a very narrow band
of ribbed black silk ribbon; the brim ia
curling and bound with ribbon of the
same quality and kind.
The Homburg hat iB still very much
in vogue for informal occasions, either
in gray with band of lighter ebade, or
brown with brown band, or black with
a black groß grained ribbed band. The
black derby hat is etill much worn, a
little higher in the crown, with graceful
curling brim.
The neokwear this winter is somewhat
elaborate. The English scarfs are cut
very much like the Ascot, but they are
more voluminous. To tie them requires
a great deal of patinnoe and muoii in
genuity. In faot, a diagram would not
bt amißs. They must be brought over
like the Ascot and then made in a knot.
Below this a scarf pin is inserted. But
there is yet more to come. The silk
most be puffed ont and cover the entire
shirt front, which means a great deal
now that waistcoats are cat so low and
men wear their coats habitually unbut
toned. Red seems to lead, and the
windows of the shops are simply daz
zling with this brilliant color. The
handsomest of all the English scarfs in
this shape, however, are of black silk or
satin, with small flowers, or designs
raised in white or bine, or again in the
all-prevailing red.
If the arrangement of these oravats
proves too muoh for the patience of the
ordinary man, he can select a four-in
hand, which is still the fashion this
year. These are, however, narrower
this season, and black with colored de
signs or stipes are the most popular.
Again, there are very narrow black ties
to bo adjusted in a single knot like a
four-in-hand, or the ordinary club tie or
cravat, to be arranged in a square bow ;
and the latter come in all possible de
signs and colors. So it will be seen that
with auoh an embarrassment of riob
material, a man can very easily spend
quite a small fortune in the item of
scarfs and ties alone, and men have
been known to make collections of
these bits of ribbon as others gather
around them old china or rare books.
WHAT SMALL BOYS WEAK.
There is • tendency to using kilt
skirts on boys up to 5 years of age, in
stead of patting them in knee brseobes
No, 4.
when only 3 years old. The mother's
preference decides the matter nsualiy in
favor of keeping bar boy ia skirts,
though much also depends on the child,
on his size, and on his fancies, one sens
itive little fellow with golden curls pro
testing as shyly when seen without his
skirt as did Rosalind herself when dis
covered in trousers in the forest of
Aruen.
Blue serge for daily wear, and white
serge for best, are chosen for the kilt
and little jacket in the winter, though
some boys wear white pique euits all
the year. There are broadclotna, tricots,
cheviots and velveteens for the largest
tMVH, but serge is in best taste for all
sizes. The short jncket may be square
corneied, or else rounded in Zouave
fashion, but must never reach the edge
of the full white blouse beneath. The
kilt ia either side-pleated or in box
pleats, falling just over the knee, and is
sewed to asi lea in waist. The full droop
ing blouse with large square collar is of
fine white lawn or of Japanese silk
daintily embroidered. Norfolk pleated
suits of cheviot, and Scotch plaid kilts
with plain cloth jackets, are also shown
for boys of five years. An important
matter is that the kilt skirt be worn
without petticoats underneath to dis
tend it, The kilt should hang straight
with unbroken pleats over knee-breeohes
made of the same material as the kilt,
or something similar. The child should
be made comfortably warm by merino
drawers and long black woolen stock
ings. His buttoned shoes have cloth
tops and patent-leather below. The hat
is a Tarn o'Shanter of blue serge or of
tan leather, and his overcoat is a warm
blue reefer or else a iong cape-coat of
cloth covering him to the ankles.
No. 5.
Tbe ever-popular sailor suits are made
for boys from 3 to 8 years of age, and are
also ÜBed by those 12 years old. The
smallest boys (who should still be in
kilts) wear either tbe sailor trousers
flaring at tbe foot or else short knee
breeches. Tbe midshipman suit, copied
from tbe regular navy jacket, ia of blue
serge, the fronts opening on a shield or
vest of serge embroidered with crossed
anchors and three bars in red. Four
little brass buttons are on each side of
tbe open jacket, and there is a large
sailor collar of the serge, over which a
separate collar is worn, either of white
•erge or pique. Sometimes a white
shield is also used, of serge or of galatea.
Heavy flannels are needed under the
open jacket. This boy wears a reefer of
thick Line chinchilla, which may now
be ornamented with regulation buttons
of the United States navy, instead of
the anchor buttons so long worn.
Military suit* are offered as, rivals to
sailor suits for boys of 4 to 12 years.
They are made of bright blue doeskin,
of the bluo'.gray cloth worn by West
Point cadets, or else of dark blue cloth.
The coat is cut like a United States of
ficer's undress coat or sack, buttoned
up the single-breasted front by five but
tons, and braided across in five leaves.
Similar ornaments are on the high
turned-over collar on the sleeves. The
knee-breeches are quite straight. To
complete this suit very effectively is a
military cape of the cloth of the coat—
a circaiar cape such as offioers wear.
It has a hood attached, and is lined
throughout with red flannel or cloth. A
row of military brasß buttons is down
the front of the caps.
School suits for hoys from 5 to 15
years of age are made of cheviots, light
grays or browns, or darker mixtures, or
else checked. Most of these suits have
a double-breasted jacket and knee
breeches, but the present fancy is to
put trousers on boyp of 12, an unbecom
ing fashion, making them look like old
men. With these are worn a sack coat
and vest, a shirt, with standing collar
and scarf, and a derby hat.
Church suits for boys up to 10 years
are made of blue or green cloth, with
the jacket meeting at th» throat and
opening below over a long vest. It is
handsomely braided in cross-rows of
black on each side of the front. The
knee pantaloons have also cross-rows of
braiding, A turned-over collar of linen
is worn, with a large silk bow at the
throat of a dark color or else of plaid.
No, C
When taken into society, tho Eton
suit with trousers is worn by boys of
eight to fourteen years, even though
they wear knee breeches with other
suits. Tuxedo suits are worn by youthe
of from 10 to 16 years. The Tuxedo coat
is a sack coat with shawl collar ami
dress-coat front. It is made of soft black
worsteds similar to those used for men' a
evening clothes. Knee breeches or
tronsera may be worn us one chooses.
If these suits are considered extreme,
tben a three-buttoned, cutaway sack
may bo made of blue or black tricot or
diagonal, with a bit of a pique veat
showing.
Chinchilla reefers and short box coats
are in great favor with boys for over
coats for general wear. The short box
coat cut straight ia liked for boys in
knee breeches. Something for swell oc
casions is a long box coat of dark blue
kersey with a velvet collar.
Mibb Debutants,
DOCTOR
Pritghard,
Orifieial Surgeon.
RECTAL, FEMALE and
CHRONIC DISEASES
*
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An entire new plan of treatme;
for the cure of
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Chronic Constipation,
Chronic Diarrhoea,
Nervous Prostration,
Neuralgia, Insomnia,
Insanity, Paralysis,
Chronic Headaches,
Chronic Rheumatism,
Hemorrhoids (Piles)
Fistula, Fissure,
Rectal Ulcer, Dropsy,
Skin Diseases in all forms.
Bend for book (frse) which will explain foil*
bow chronic diieaiea of all kind* ar* readily
relieved and cured. Rectal dliaaiei oured ia
from two to four weeks.
Satisfactory refer*no*s given. It will eoa'
you nothing to Investigate ray mod* of lr**t
inem.
W.E.PRITCHARD, M.D.,
155 North Spring St.,
TEL.. £391. 1.09 ANGKLIi,
Olliue hours, 13 to 4 p. m dally. Sunday*
11 to 1.
■USaKMIiI. nl 1r T toiii-ul r«IIh hu.larm rar'
. l-in-i'iiu plain »t'lf«ildre..eil asswaal c-
IMHraStflHlvelnpo tar valuable Information r«>
m 1 1 1 "nrre.nondpnce ('..flitrattai,
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