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Nc. i PRACTICAL COSTUMES THESE Designed by Noted Tail= ors, Are Natty and What You Want WHAT MRS. BLOOMER WORE The Grace of the Skirt, Mrs. Sage Thinks, Should Be Sacrificed Only oo the Altar of Necessity During the past few months many de signs for a suitable eostumo for women to wear when cycling havo appeared in the papers. Of these a few wore neat, practicable and woarable, but for the most part tbe designs were anything but practicable. In connection with this ar ticle appear six designs which are de signed by well-known tailors, and all have been tried and found to be as prac ticable as they are becoming. We are able to reproduce the sketches used in this connection through tbo courtesy of Ste phens it ffickok, the local agents of the Columbia bicycle. Costume No. 1 is designed and worn by Mrs. Jenness Miller. Mrs. Jenness Miller bas given to this suit ths name Colum bia, and describes It iv her lectures. The suit consists of trousers, designed to look as much like a divided skirt as possible, hanging trom a sleoveless underwaist, thus obviating the need of a belt at the waist. The trousers are gathered to n band at the knee. Tbe jackot is loose and comfortable, with long, full skirt. Leggings of elastic clotb reach to tbe knee. A cap of neat design completes tbe suit. Costume No. 2 is by Rcdfern of New York and London. It is an extremely smart costume, consisting of short skirt, worn over knickerbockers of the seine material, and waist with vest of red cloth and gold buttons under front of light box cloth. Leggings of box cloth. Alpine bat. The material recommended by Red fern Is a rich open tweed. No. 3 is a bicycle costume designed and Worn by Miss "Georgia Cayvan. This, costume consists|nf couave trousers and a amort Eton jacket with full sleeves, worn over a.shirt which may be either loose or close, or a dainty sweater or tight-fitting jersey bodico with or without sleeves. Around the waist is a bolt of suedo, drawn through a buckle. The trousers ere made without lining and in light serges for summer, a war n lining being added for winter wear. Leggings of jer rey cloth, when wanted, are worn from the shoe to abovo the knee, tho jersey cloth being elastic and affording full play to the ankles. A sailor hat, with chiffon at the side and Mercury wings, completes tbe costume. No. 4 is another design by Red fern. This is the eostumo for bicycling moat favored in Franot« It consists of the famous bloomers, with Norfolk coat, made of dark green tweeds, with collar and waistband of green cloth of very deep shade fastened by gold buckles. Tho long E alters are id slute-colored cloth to match at and gloves. No. 5 shows a design by OOSta Kraemer M New York city. The cost umo consists of ti medium plain skirt and a modification of the Eton jacket, with a soft roll collar and ends falling in front. With it is worn a dainty sweater or such waist as taste may dictate. The material may bo serge, cravenette or any id' the soft Wool ens. Legging of jorsey (loth or other elastic matorial. with trousers under the skirt, nic optional. £ No. fi ,s a second design by Gosta Krae mer of New York city. The trousers are of aooordton-plaited serge, very full und gathered to a band buttoning at the knee, or an accordion-plaited skirt may be worn Over knickerbockers producing almost tlie SOME NATTY BUT PRACTICAL BICYCYLE COSTUMES DESIGNED BY TAILOR ARTISTS No a same effect. The cout is single-breasted, intended to button us shown or to hang almost closed when unbuttoned. A sbirt waist of wool or silk is worn under the coat. Leggings of jersey cloth, when dc sirod, complete the costume. MKS. SAGE SAYS BLOOMERS If a woman.will follow the pursuits of a man, will become an equal iv work and ambitions, she must have a practical cos tume. She cannot wait to grasp her skirts if ;sho must grasp a particular car railing; she cannot wait for her skirts if she must bo at the otiice in timo to begin work with her brother. The woman of leisure need tukc no part in the demand for reform dress, only inasmuch as sho choosea to assist her working sister. So says Mrs. Russell Sage, whoso opin ion is not only valuable because she is Mrs. Sage, but equally so as coming from a woman who is a careful reasoner.a sym pathising sister and one capable of ex pressing her views in a manner attractive and logical. Tho bloomer question was to be the subject of my interview, and as I sat on tho sofa which Mrs. Sage told mo was ono hundred years old, I wondered what tig tires of weight and means might be regis tered on those springs, and I could not lefrain from crushing one blue cushion unmercifully, Cedarhusrt, L. 1., is the summer home of the Sages and tho scene of my inter view. Mrs. Sage told me of her home in Syracuse, where she knew the real Mrs. Bloomer. Mrß. Sage as a girl was Miss slocum, daughter of Joseph Slocuin. Tho atmosphere of her home at Syracuse was entirely conservative. Nevertheless when tbe people came to Syracuse to the anti-slavery meetings, wnen Dr. Samuel May gathered the progressive set about him there and Mrs. Bloomer came in from Seneca Palls, Mrs. Sage very often attendej tne meetings. Dr. May was a powerful factor in the anti-slavery cause, and Mrs. Bloomer was also an abolitionist. She came us a dele gate and her costume excited some atten tion. Her maimer, us Mrs. Sage remem bers her, was unpretentious, quiet and delicately feminine. Her costume showed a total disregard ior effect, and was man ish only to tbe extent of practicability. Her bodice was soft and baited at the waist, her collar ample and correct, us was also ber prim bonnet; ber skirt fell halt way from knee to ankle, and then the bloomer—really a pantalet—made ol tbe same black material as thereat of ber costume, reaching to her boot tops. In those days pantalets were the vogue, and Mrs. Sage smiled as she told me of her own favorite pair, with four little ruttles, always crimped for Sunday. Mrs. Bloomer did not appear too stong-minded then, us she only gave up muslin for tbe more serviceable matorial. As Mrs. Sage so knew Mrs. Bloomer, she agreed that she was entirely what sbo aimed to be—a practical woman, progressive and competent of realizing results from her theories. Mrs. Miller, n daughter of Gerrit Smith of Syracuse, was the next noticeable patron of the bloomers, but ber costumes were always of handsome black silk. ■ "That clock is seventy-live years old. Tt was my mother's," said Mrs. Sago, pointing to a pretty hanging clock m tbe drawing room, "I wind it always myself and to do so must step upon tbat table. Iv this effort I-rind my skirts dangerous us well as inconveniet. Yet I consider woman can only afford to sacrilice the grace of skirts at the altar of necessity. A woman's dinner party would be as ordinary aa a club luncheon without the added charm of variety of costume. But ns v street or walking dress we need a uniform which can be worn till worn out on every outdoor occasion. This need not embrace coat, vest, necktie, etc., but should essentially contain all—but only all it calls for a comfortable, practical walking costume. whether bloomer, divided skirt or pantalet, with any femi nine variations of which it will reason ably admit. On a bicycle, of course, I cannot sco how a woman would attempt to rid» without the bloomer."—New York Herald. HOW WHEELMEN LOOK IN GOTHAM The new rider is content to go out on tho boulevard In long troutien tightened at the siiklcs with steel bands, but pro ficiency usually brings an abhorrence of this inappropriate costume. Many skilled bicyclists would rather stay at home than he seen riding on Riversiae drive in or LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, AUGUST 25, 1885. • No. 3 dinary trousers. Thus the appearance of the world on wheels tends to become more and more agreeable. Hut many queer combinations in clothing are slill to be seen. Some of those who wear tbe long trousers choose an old pair. Occas ionally this garment is so far gon<i that the fringes at tlie bottom are almost rulHles. Perhaps a scarlet j.Tsoy shirt and scarlet cap are worn witli the trous ers. A part of the ridres consider any thing good enough for wheeling, and so rig tnemselves out in soiled clothes origi nally intended tor tennis, rowing or base ball. The flaring colors in their con trasts suggest an east side costume ball. College oarsmen and football players don't want spick and span new uniforms, and even take tho trouble to roll in the dirt with them to tone them down, but there seems no good reason why a man who dresses carefully for uuainass should ap pear like a scarecrow on his wheel. Tho "bicycle stoop" and worn out or inap propriate clotniug oftun go together.— Now York Tribune. FINISHED WITH HER WHE2L A second heavy storm caught four wo men riders on tne last quarter of a centu ry run. The three novices of the party decided to finish by wagon, but the ex pert brought her 19-pound machine tri umphantly over muddy roads through the pouring rain to tho end. Whether or not tbis proves the fact that women lack endurance is left to tlie judgment (or prejudice I) of the individual reader. A certain short street, within a stone's throw of the Lake Shore drive is now known as the "bicycle kindergarten." Embryonic riders, from 6 to 60 years of age, are there "off and on" ali day and a large part of the night. In tho discussion of women's cycling costumes, too little attention has been given to footwear. Upon this fundamen tal point practical riders differ, and with good reason. They agree that heavy stockings, ribbod or smooth, of cotton or woolen, are essential, silk hose being ab solutely barred by their evident unfit ness. The difference is between tlie wear ers of low or high ahoss. Tho advocates of low shoe claim greaier freedom and consequently greater strength for the ank les in their costume. Tho believer in high shoes says that tbe ankle is protect ed from injury and helped to hear tbe steady strain by using the high boot. Most practical wheelwomen hold the opinion that leggings should be worn simply for warmth in cool weathor. As a rule both the high and low shoe part.es wear the pointed toe. The extra length of such a shoe is to be considered in rid ing, and, like any other superfluity, is out of place on the wheel. A shoe with a broad toe is much to be preferred for both nse and beauty in bicycling. A young woman while riding a bicycle in Paris the other day came in contact with the curb and was thrown to the ground. A paper Venetian lantern of the kind that is frequently used in France in place or the ordinary bicycle lamp set rire to her skirts and might have burned her badly had not several passers-by as sisted in putting out the flames before much damage had been done. As she re mounted she remarked that the accident would not have occurred if she had only worn bloomers.—New Yoilc Evening Sun. The new man's lament: Bide, ride, ride. From sunny morn till night; Over the country wide, They are going out of sight! And the bicycles sped on To the station under the hill; But oh for tho voice of a wife that is gone. And tho roar of a stovo that is still! —Atlanta Constitution. "Oh, dear," moaned the cow, as she readjusted tbe bag of pounded ice be tween her horns, "I never felt so nervous in my life. Just think of that horrid Woman bursting upon me with v pair it vermilion bloomers. Oh! dear! Oh! dear! I think my head will burst."—De troit Tribune. Sho mounted her bike like a man. And away she Hew past to greet us; She don't ride any more, She's on the other shore. For it brought on tbo peritonitis. —Springfield Monitor. J From London to Aberdecu,a distance of 504 miles, is now covered in eleven hours by a train of the London and Northwest ern railway. IT MAY COME TO THIS. No. 4 AN EXCITING BICYCLE RACE One of the most exciting races that has ever taken place in this city was held about a woek ago, and, strange to relate, it was not between any of lhe local crack erjacKs. Two of tbe best known gentle men ill tbe town were the participants, and the intensity with which they rode would have led one to believe that a largo purse was ut stake. Thero was not, however, hut the "action' was most noticcablo and tle small and select audi ence felt that their time had not been thrown away by watching the event. The participants wero Dr. F. K. Ains worth and James Cuzner, the lumber dealer. Both had boen riding bicycles for probably a day without the assistance of the iuustructors to hold then: on, when the question of supremacy arose between them. The matter was referred to mutual friends, who agreed tbat the only way to so tie the dispute was according to the bicycle code, and a race was arranged. The place of meeting selected was on Figueroa street, from Pico to Washington, and return. So they tepaired in company with their seconds and other attendants to the course and got in fighting trim. llr. Ainsworth wore a Nile green sweater. WbUe tho manly bosom of Mr. Cuzner was incased in one of lavender hue. What tbey had on their limbs does not, to quote Chimmie Madden, "cut no ice," as those parts of their respective anato mies arc the least of them. Mr. Cuzner entered a most vigorous protest against his opponent appearing in a costume so conspicuously antago nistic to his own, and for a few moments it appeared that the race would never be run. Finally, though, when the seconds of Dr. Ainsworth, with tears in their eyes, appealed to tho well-known kind heart of the lumber man by telling him that his opponent had only tho one gar ment of tno kind with him, and that if he discarded it the police might stop tho race or the doctor catch a bad cold, Mr. Cuzner smiled magnanimously, and with tbe uir of a martyr that be wus. cried, "On to victory—or the sidewalk." The following well known citizens were present to see that everything was con ducted in an amiable and speedy manner: Charles Marriner, H. W. O'Melvenv. J. M. Crawley, Judge W. H. Clark, Frank Burnett, Dr. Kannon, and last, and most necessary of all, Police Surgeon Bry ant. The race started from Pico street. Shortly after they were under way Mr. Cuzner fell off his wheel. Thecrowd yelled to the mercurial Dr. Ainsworth to wait and give the little fellow a chance. Remembering the incident of the sweater, tbe able disciple of Kscutapius retaliated upon the magnanimous, and slowed up until the other caught him. They were neck and neck going up the stretch, and coming back they resembled the Siamese twins, so closely were they bunched. But when within less than 100 yards from the goal they encountered a large wagon. Mr. Cuzner managed to pass by safely, but not so Dr. Ainsworth. The latter fell off his wheei, and tiy as hard as pußsible, he could not mount again, and Mr. Cuz ner crossed the tape in 10:59 1-5, the fast est time on record for a bicycle hurdle race. Dr. Ainsworth a close second in 29:59^. Satisfaction has been demanded ana will be given at an early date. Prescribing tils Own fledlclne Puck: Irate party—Young man, have you ma.de any provision for your family? Is your life insured? Agent—l—cr—. Irate party—WeJl, it don't make any difference just now. But you'd better get insured before you call here again. A Servant Girl Question Mrs. Mcßride (entering the kitchen)— Bridget, didn't I see that policeman kiss you? Bridget—Well, mum, sure an' yo wouldn't hey me lay niesilf opin to arrist for resistin' an orticer, mum.—Harpers Bazar. H Tho smallest son ana heir had been sent into the garden to fetch a stick with wdiich ho was to be punished. After some delay he returned, saying, with a sigh: "Couldn't find a stick, mover; but here's a little* stone you might frow at me."—Harper's Magazine. The French government annually ap propriates $25,030,000 for various char ities. No. 5 NS, 6 BIKES WERE NOT ALWAYS WHAT THEY ARE TODAY There id perhaps no better manner of pointing out the wonderful progress that has taken place in the bicycle business than by referrng to the columns of the ti rat paper that was published 'n tne in terests of the sport. In October, 1882, there appeared the lirst number of a maga/ue known as the Wheelman. Almost the first article is a digest on the su'oject of The Bicycle, Having in mind the wonderful construction of today that passes by that name, and Ihon thinking of tne sixty pound "ordinary," with its straight han dle bar and cumbersome parts, ns com pared with those of today, one cannot help being amused by the following: ".Since 18(19 hundreds of thousands of these machines, wonderfully perfected in the principles of their construction, in workmanship and in material, have been scattered over tho world." At that tfme there was a total of less than $0,000,000 invested In the entire bicycle business. Chicago alone has in tho neighborhood of $12,000,000 investod in the bicycle business. Tne lirst riding feat to attract the attention of the public was the ride of lon Keith Falconer, woo rode from Landsend to John o' Groat's. The distance, 004 miles, was made in a few minutes less than thiitsen days, and tbe performance was considered of sulli cient importance to have the rider make a tour of the country and give lectures on the ride. The present record for tho ride is less than one-third of those fig ures. The lirst race meet that is chonicled is tbat given by the Worcester Bicycle club. Tin hrst race on the programme was a two-mile affair and was won iv 8:51, The fastest mile of the day was 3:21, while the half milo was reeled off in the "phe nomenal time of 1:30." These three races constituted the day's programtne.and are referred to ns an exciting race meet. May 22, 1883. the league gave a banquet at a hotel in New York city. It was at tbis time tbat the League of American Wheelmen was having a hard tight to establish its right to rule on the road. As a result, a number of the speeches tbat evening were on tbe progress that bad been made in a number of suits that had been begun to establish tbe point that a bicycle was a vehicle, and as such entitled to a half of the road. Among other things that wore prohibited to the bicyclist of tnat time was the use of Cen tral pans, New York. Finally a meeting was arranged at which tbe cyclists were to be given a hearing before the park board. A number of tho prominent rid- 1 ers ol the day went before the board and gave their views. Ono of the points that was brought up was that about every for.n of vehicle was allowed in tbe park with tbe exception of tbe bicycle. One of the speakers had a groat deal to say on the subject of allowing goats in the park. The arguments wore without avail, however, at the time, and it was only after the greatest effort on the part of tbe riders that they were finally accordod the use of the parks and driveways. In 1882 it was estimated there were all told 10,000 riders in tbe United .States and Canada, one in ten of whom wero mem bers of the league. In those days a rider on the road would not think of passing another rider without saluting, and if it were 011 a country road tbe riders would dismount and have a little chat with eacii other. Then all riders were bonded to gether in one cause.tlnt of securing their rights,and ns a result it was almost equiv alent to being a member of a fraternal order to be a rider of a bicycle. One of the most interesting of recent inventions In the bicycle business is that for adjustable handle bar by T. H. Bur- 1 ton ot Chicago. The invention relates to an oscillating or adjustable handle bar for bicycles, its object being to provide a construction whereby the handle bar may be rotated into any desired position to adjust the elevatio.i of tbe handles; and furthermore, to provide measures where by tbe angle of the handles relatively to the handle bar may be adjusted so that the handles may be raised to any desired height without necessarily changing the direction of tho axes thereof. It has been proposed heretofore to provido an adjust able handle bar for bicycles, but the con struction has always been such that it necessitated tbe disrnountng of the rider and the application of a wrench to un screw anil screw up certain parts. it is 1 Columbia 1 fe A \ S§ I 1 1 # W i EICYCLE Jtff || - of You Sec Them Everywhere £k? price of THE BEST BICYCLES I $105 I HAVB YOU STOPPED TO THINK WHY? %A It's the Columbia Price Each for One or More pss ABSOLUTELY NO DEVIATION. >\A AGENTS WANTED IN EVERY TOWN. J Stephens & Hickok 8 Agents for Southern California ||| 433 South Broadway, Los Angeles gj| the object of the present invention to pro tide a construction whereby tho position of the handle bar may bo adjusted with out dismounting. tin Mr. llurton's invention the handle ar is mounted upon the steerintr post in such a manner that it may bo rotated, a catch or jocking device being provided for normally maintaining ttie handle bar in position. A thumb piece is situated in a position to ho conveniently reached by the hand of the rider to release the spring catch or locking mechanism and permit the rotation of the handle bar. The inventor also provides means where by the handles themselves may lie rotated relatively to the handle bar, so tbat the handle bar may be moved into any posi tion Without changing the position of tno handles within tho hands. For this pur pose tho handles are pivoted at their ends to tho handle bar and normally main tained in position by a spring catch or locking device crbicn may be released by a thumb piece situated in a convenient position to bo engaged by the hand of the rider. Mr. Burton provides a single thumb piece which controls the locking device of the handle bar and also the locking device ot both handles, whereby when the thumb piece is engaged by the hand of the rider the bar and tbe handles are free to bo rotateil into any desired po sition. There is a further improvement contemplated whereby toe handles work themselves automatically on the end of the bandle bar.so that they do away with tbe locking device on handles.—Chicago j Inter-Ocean. THE WAY TO A MAN'S HEART if. St. Maur in the London Sun: "Yea," said bonny Mre. Grady, glanc ing at tbe clerk, "my busband is late for dinner "Half an hour, surely," remarked the friend and guest, adding in a slightly acidulated tone, "Christmas dinner, too" "Poor man!" was all Mrs. Grady voatichsafeu, witb a compassionate smile. Neither of the speakers was young; as a matter of fact both were between the forties and fifties. "Do you like your husband being late tor dinner?" asked Mrs. Chasely. "Not at all," was the answer, "es pecially when you are tuy guest.'' "Shall you scold him when he comes in?" "Wait till I tell you something that hap pened during the lirst threo months of my married life. As you know, I'm fond of housekeeping, and prido myself on knowing how to cook, how to select a good cook, and, above all, how to keep her when I've got her. Tho thing I took most pains about when 1 started house keeping waß a cook. My husband always came home to dinner, my dear. One day, Wodneuday, of tno ninth week of our marriage, I remmember it perfectly, cook and I evolved a perfectly lovely din ner, but it wanted to be eaten directly. The dinner hour was (>:o(i. At b:l!u I was seated in happy expectation at tno win dow. Six-thirty—Henry would turn the corner in a moment. " six-thirty-live— be hail not turned the corner. How I fumed and fidgetted and fretted! My hands got all hot in the palms. At 6:43 I had ruined my clean handkerchief rub bing them. Aa I left the room to get an other tho cook sung out, 'This dinner's spioilin' mem.' 'Tho master will be here directly, Ann, I'm sure.' I tried to answer cheerfully, but tno conviction is even now forced upon me that tho tone betrayed irritation. At 7:lb in came Henry. I greeted him with, 'O, Henry how could you he so late? The dinner's ruined—ruined !' Rambler Bicycles AND RIDINO SCHOOL Thomas H. B. Varney, 427 S. Spring St. "He sairl lie really couldn't help it. Aa the table maid put on the dishes she re marked in an acid tone: 'The cook told mo to say, madam, she was very sorry, but the dinner's been kept so long it'a quite spoiled.' " 'You can tell thecook we have no diffl culty in ascertaining that fact for our selves,' snapped out my lord and master, by way of reply. The meal was gloomy and only picked at; the evening still gh io liner. '•At 10 o'clock I went up stairs and had a good cry. "The next day after dinner, which was punctual and all right in every way, Henry said—and I never forgot what he said: I'm going to give you nearly tbe exact words he used—'Come here, little woman, (I was a little woman then) 'and be lectured. You were very angry at my being late for dinner yesterday. You need not have been. If you bad stipped to think a moment you would not have been so put out. Doesn't it occm to you that when a man has been hard at work all day he gets hungiy and {tired toward (j o'clock? That when he knows that there is a jolly good dinner and sweet 1 ittle wife waiting for him' (be rut the dinner first and tbe wife second) 'tnat he's going after those two very good things us quickly as he can? I spoiled last night's dinner, my darling, to arrange some very important business. You shall not develop into an acrimoni ous little shrew if I can help it; so take fair warning. I shall develop into a very nasty husband if you do so.' " "And did bo, my dear?" queried Mrs. Chasely. Replied Mrs. Grady—"He csrtainly did; 1 didn't forget that lecture for six montns, and then it was nis birthday dinner, it culinary symphony—he was an hour late. I greeted him wdth: 'Oh, Harry, this is too cruel of you!' " "What did he do?" "He put on bis hat and left the house." - At this moment tho door burst open and a hearty voice ejaculated: "My dear Mrs. Chasely, I'm so sorry to be late. If I hadn't'the best wife in the world your dinner would be spoiled; but come in, I know it will be all rignt." It is reported that a bicycle builder in England is working on a wheel to carry seven riders. It will prove a great nov elty for exhibition purposes if for noth ing elso. It is reported in Philadelphia that the salary ot a good class A man thcrabouts is (lo per week and traveling expenses, in addition to tho prizes he wins. The negro Baptist Sunday school con vention ut Augusta recently warned negroes ot tho United States to stay away from Africa. 15