OCR Interpretation

The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, August 25, 1895, Image 15

Image and text provided by University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85042461/1895-08-25/ed-1/seq-15/

What is OCR?

Thumbnail for 15

Nc. i
Designed by Noted Tail=
ors, Are Natty and
What You Want
The Grace of the Skirt, Mrs. Sage
Thinks, Should Be Sacrificed
Only oo the Altar of
During the past few months many de
signs for a suitable eostumo for women
to wear when cycling havo appeared in
the papers. Of these a few wore neat,
practicable and woarable, but for the
most part tbe designs were anything but
practicable. In connection with this ar
ticle appear six designs which are de
signed by well-known tailors, and all
have been tried and found to be as prac
ticable as they are becoming. We are able
to reproduce the sketches used in this
connection through tbo courtesy of Ste
phens it ffickok, the local agents of the
Columbia bicycle.
Costume No. 1 is designed and worn by
Mrs. Jenness Miller. Mrs. Jenness Miller
bas given to this suit ths name Colum
bia, and describes It iv her lectures. The
suit consists of trousers, designed to look
as much like a divided skirt as possible,
hanging trom a sleoveless underwaist,
thus obviating the need of a belt at the
waist. The trousers are gathered to n
band at the knee. Tbe jackot is loose
and comfortable, with long, full skirt.
Leggings of elastic clotb reach to tbe
knee. A cap of neat design completes
tbe suit.
Costume No. 2 is by Rcdfern of New
York and London. It is an extremely
smart costume, consisting of short skirt,
worn over knickerbockers of the seine
material, and waist with vest of red cloth
and gold buttons under front of light box
cloth. Leggings of box cloth. Alpine
bat. The material recommended by Red
fern Is a rich open tweed.
No. 3 is a bicycle costume designed and
Worn by Miss "Georgia Cayvan. This,
costume consists|nf couave trousers and a
amort Eton jacket with full sleeves, worn
over a.shirt which may be either loose or
close, or a dainty sweater or tight-fitting
jersey bodico with or without sleeves.
Around the waist is a bolt of suedo,
drawn through a buckle. The trousers
ere made without lining and in light
serges for summer, a war n lining being
added for winter wear. Leggings of jer
rey cloth, when wanted, are worn from
the shoe to abovo the knee, tho jersey
cloth being elastic and affording full play
to the ankles. A sailor hat, with chiffon
at the side and Mercury wings, completes
tbe costume.
No. 4 is another design by Red fern.
This is the eostumo for bicycling moat
favored in Franot« It consists of the
famous bloomers, with Norfolk coat,
made of dark green tweeds, with collar
and waistband of green cloth of very deep
shade fastened by gold buckles. Tho long
E alters are id slute-colored cloth to match
at and gloves.
No. 5 shows a design by OOSta Kraemer
M New York city. The cost umo consists of
ti medium plain skirt and a modification
of the Eton jacket, with a soft roll collar
and ends falling in front. With it is
worn a dainty sweater or such waist as
taste may dictate. The material may bo
serge, cravenette or any id' the soft Wool
ens. Legging of jorsey (loth or other
elastic matorial. with trousers under the
skirt, nic optional.
£ No. fi ,s a second design by Gosta Krae
mer of New York city. The trousers are
of aooordton-plaited serge, very full und
gathered to a band buttoning at the knee,
or an accordion-plaited skirt may be worn
Over knickerbockers producing almost tlie
No a
same effect. The cout is single-breasted,
intended to button us shown or to hang
almost closed when unbuttoned. A sbirt
waist of wool or silk is worn under the
coat. Leggings of jersey cloth, when dc
sirod, complete the costume.
If a woman.will follow the pursuits of
a man, will become an equal iv work and
ambitions, she must have a practical cos
tume. She cannot wait to grasp her
skirts if ;sho must grasp a particular car
railing; she cannot wait for her skirts if
she must bo at the otiice in timo to begin
work with her brother. The woman of
leisure need tukc no part in the demand
for reform dress, only inasmuch as sho
choosea to assist her working sister.
So says Mrs. Russell Sage, whoso opin
ion is not only valuable because she is
Mrs. Sage, but equally so as coming from
a woman who is a careful reasoner.a sym
pathising sister and one capable of ex
pressing her views in a manner attractive
and logical.
Tho bloomer question was to be the
subject of my interview, and as I sat on
tho sofa which Mrs. Sage told mo was ono
hundred years old, I wondered what tig
tires of weight and means might be regis
tered on those springs, and I could not
lefrain from crushing one blue cushion
Cedarhusrt, L. 1., is the summer home
of the Sages and tho scene of my inter
view. Mrs. Sage told me of her home in
Syracuse, where she knew the real Mrs.
Bloomer. Mrß. Sage as a girl was Miss
slocum, daughter of Joseph Slocuin.
Tho atmosphere of her home at Syracuse
was entirely conservative. Nevertheless
when tbe people came to Syracuse to the
anti-slavery meetings, wnen Dr. Samuel
May gathered the progressive set about
him there and Mrs. Bloomer came in
from Seneca Palls, Mrs. Sage very often
attendej tne meetings.
Dr. May was a powerful factor in the
anti-slavery cause, and Mrs. Bloomer was
also an abolitionist. She came us a dele
gate and her costume excited some atten
tion. Her maimer, us Mrs. Sage remem
bers her, was unpretentious, quiet and
delicately feminine. Her costume showed
a total disregard ior effect, and was man
ish only to tbe extent of practicability.
Her bodice was soft and baited at the
waist, her collar ample and correct, us
was also ber prim bonnet; ber skirt fell
halt way from knee to ankle, and then
the bloomer—really a pantalet—made ol
tbe same black material as thereat of ber
costume, reaching to her boot tops.
In those days pantalets were the vogue,
and Mrs. Sage smiled as she told me of
her own favorite pair, with four little
ruttles, always crimped for Sunday. Mrs.
Bloomer did not appear too stong-minded
then, us she only gave up muslin for tbe
more serviceable matorial. As Mrs.
Sage so knew Mrs. Bloomer, she agreed
that she was entirely what sbo aimed to
be—a practical woman, progressive and
competent of realizing results from her
Mrs. Miller, n daughter of Gerrit Smith
of Syracuse, was the next noticeable
patron of the bloomers, but ber costumes
were always of handsome black silk.
■ "That clock is seventy-live years old.
Tt was my mother's," said Mrs. Sago,
pointing to a pretty hanging clock m tbe
drawing room, "I wind it always myself
and to do so must step upon tbat table.
Iv this effort I-rind my skirts dangerous
us well as inconveniet. Yet I consider
woman can only afford to sacrilice the
grace of skirts at the altar of necessity.
A woman's dinner party would be as
ordinary aa a club luncheon without the
added charm of variety of costume. But
ns v street or walking dress we need a
uniform which can be worn till worn out
on every outdoor occasion. This need
not embrace coat, vest, necktie, etc., but
should essentially contain all—but only
all it calls for a comfortable, practical
walking costume. whether bloomer,
divided skirt or pantalet, with any femi
nine variations of which it will reason
ably admit. On a bicycle, of course, I
cannot sco how a woman would attempt
to rid» without the bloomer."—New
York Herald.
The new rider is content to go out on
tho boulevard In long troutien tightened
at the siiklcs with steel bands, but pro
ficiency usually brings an abhorrence of
this inappropriate costume. Many skilled
bicyclists would rather stay at home than
he seen riding on Riversiae drive in or
• No. 3
dinary trousers. Thus the appearance
of the world on wheels tends to become
more and more agreeable. Hut many
queer combinations in clothing are slill
to be seen. Some of those who wear tbe
long trousers choose an old pair. Occas
ionally this garment is so far gon<i that
the fringes at tlie bottom are almost
rulHles. Perhaps a scarlet j.Tsoy shirt
and scarlet cap are worn witli the trous
ers. A part of the ridres consider any
thing good enough for wheeling, and so
rig tnemselves out in soiled clothes origi
nally intended tor tennis, rowing or base
ball. The flaring colors in their con
trasts suggest an east side costume ball.
College oarsmen and football players don't
want spick and span new uniforms, and
even take tho trouble to roll in the dirt
with them to tone them down, but there
seems no good reason why a man who
dresses carefully for uuainass should ap
pear like a scarecrow on his wheel. Tho
"bicycle stoop" and worn out or inap
propriate clotniug oftun go together.—
Now York Tribune.
A second heavy storm caught four wo
men riders on tne last quarter of a centu
ry run. The three novices of the party
decided to finish by wagon, but the ex
pert brought her 19-pound machine tri
umphantly over muddy roads through
the pouring rain to tho end. Whether or
not tbis proves the fact that women lack
endurance is left to tlie judgment (or
prejudice I) of the individual reader.
A certain short street, within a stone's
throw of the Lake Shore drive is now
known as the "bicycle kindergarten."
Embryonic riders, from 6 to 60 years of
age, are there "off and on" ali day and a
large part of the night.
In tho discussion of women's cycling
costumes, too little attention has been
given to footwear. Upon this fundamen
tal point practical riders differ, and with
good reason. They agree that heavy
stockings, ribbod or smooth, of cotton or
woolen, are essential, silk hose being ab
solutely barred by their evident unfit
ness. The difference is between tlie wear
ers of low or high ahoss. Tho advocates
of low shoe claim greaier freedom and
consequently greater strength for the ank
les in their costume. Tho believer in
high shoes says that tbe ankle is protect
ed from injury and helped to hear tbe
steady strain by using the high boot.
Most practical wheelwomen hold the
opinion that leggings should be worn
simply for warmth in cool weathor. As a
rule both the high and low shoe part.es
wear the pointed toe. The extra length
of such a shoe is to be considered in rid
ing, and, like any other superfluity, is
out of place on the wheel. A shoe with a
broad toe is much to be preferred for
both nse and beauty in bicycling.
A young woman while riding a bicycle
in Paris the other day came in contact
with the curb and was thrown to the
ground. A paper Venetian lantern of
the kind that is frequently used in France
in place or the ordinary bicycle lamp set
rire to her skirts and might have burned
her badly had not several passers-by as
sisted in putting out the flames before
much damage had been done. As she re
mounted she remarked that the accident
would not have occurred if she had only
worn bloomers.—New Yoilc Evening Sun.
The new man's lament:
Bide, ride, ride.
From sunny morn till night;
Over the country wide,
They are going out of sight!
And the bicycles sped on
To the station under the hill;
But oh for tho voice of a wife that is
And tho roar of a stovo that is still!
—Atlanta Constitution.
"Oh, dear," moaned the cow, as she
readjusted tbe bag of pounded ice be
tween her horns, "I never felt so nervous
in my life. Just think of that horrid
Woman bursting upon me with v pair it
vermilion bloomers. Oh! dear! Oh!
dear! I think my head will burst."—De
troit Tribune.
Sho mounted her bike like a man.
And away she Hew past to greet us;
She don't ride any more,
She's on the other shore.
For it brought on tbo peritonitis.
—Springfield Monitor.
J From London to Aberdecu,a distance of
504 miles, is now covered in eleven hours
by a train of the London and Northwest
ern railway.
No. 4
One of the most exciting races that has
ever taken place in this city was held
about a woek ago, and, strange to relate,
it was not between any of lhe local crack
erjacKs. Two of tbe best known gentle
men ill tbe town were the participants,
and the intensity with which they rode
would have led one to believe that a largo
purse was ut stake. Thero was not,
however, hut the "action' was most
noticcablo and tle small and select audi
ence felt that their time had not been
thrown away by watching the event.
The participants wero Dr. F. K. Ains
worth and James Cuzner, the lumber
dealer. Both had boen riding bicycles for
probably a day without the assistance of
the iuustructors to hold then: on, when
the question of supremacy arose between
them. The matter was referred to mutual
friends, who agreed tbat the only way to
so tie the dispute was according to the
bicycle code, and a race was arranged.
The place of meeting selected was on
Figueroa street, from Pico to Washington,
and return.
So they tepaired in company with their
seconds and other attendants to the
course and got in fighting trim. llr.
Ainsworth wore a Nile green sweater.
WbUe tho manly bosom of Mr. Cuzner
was incased in one of lavender hue. What
tbey had on their limbs does not, to
quote Chimmie Madden, "cut no ice,"
as those parts of their respective anato
mies arc the least of them.
Mr. Cuzner entered a most vigorous
protest against his opponent appearing
in a costume so conspicuously antago
nistic to his own, and for a few moments
it appeared that the race would never be
run. Finally, though, when the seconds
of Dr. Ainsworth, with tears in their
eyes, appealed to tho well-known kind
heart of the lumber man by telling him
that his opponent had only tho one gar
ment of tno kind with him, and that if
he discarded it the police might stop tho
race or the doctor catch a bad cold, Mr.
Cuzner smiled magnanimously, and
with tbe uir of a martyr that be wus.
cried, "On to victory—or the sidewalk."
The following well known citizens were
present to see that everything was con
ducted in an amiable and speedy manner:
Charles Marriner, H. W. O'Melvenv. J.
M. Crawley, Judge W. H. Clark, Frank
Burnett, Dr. Kannon, and last, and
most necessary of all, Police Surgeon Bry
The race started from Pico street.
Shortly after they were under way Mr.
Cuzner fell off his wheel. Thecrowd
yelled to the mercurial Dr. Ainsworth to
wait and give the little fellow a chance.
Remembering the incident of the sweater,
tbe able disciple of Kscutapius retaliated
upon the magnanimous, and slowed up
until the other caught him. They were
neck and neck going up the stretch, and
coming back they resembled the Siamese
twins, so closely were they bunched.
But when within less than 100 yards from
the goal they encountered a large wagon.
Mr. Cuzner managed to pass by safely,
but not so Dr. Ainsworth. The latter fell
off his wheei, and tiy as hard as pußsible,
he could not mount again, and Mr. Cuz
ner crossed the tape in 10:59 1-5, the fast
est time on record for a bicycle hurdle
race. Dr. Ainsworth a close second in
Satisfaction has been demanded ana
will be given at an early date.
Prescribing tils Own fledlclne
Puck: Irate party—Young man, have
you ma.de any provision for your family?
Is your life insured?
Irate party—WeJl, it don't make any
difference just now. But you'd better
get insured before you call here again.
A Servant Girl Question
Mrs. Mcßride (entering the kitchen)—
Bridget, didn't I see that policeman kiss
Bridget—Well, mum, sure an' yo
wouldn't hey me lay niesilf opin to arrist
for resistin' an orticer, mum.—Harpers
H Tho smallest son ana heir had been sent
into the garden to fetch a stick with
wdiich ho was to be punished. After some
delay he returned, saying, with a sigh:
"Couldn't find a stick, mover; but
here's a little* stone you might frow at
me."—Harper's Magazine.
The French government annually ap
propriates $25,030,000 for various char
No. 5
NS, 6
There id perhaps no better manner of
pointing out the wonderful progress that
has taken place in the bicycle business
than by referrng to the columns of the
ti rat paper that was published 'n tne in
terests of the sport. In October, 1882, there
appeared the lirst number of a maga/ue
known as the Wheelman. Almost the first
article is a digest on the su'oject of The
Bicycle, Having in mind the wonderful
construction of today that passes by that
name, and Ihon thinking of tne sixty
pound "ordinary," with its straight han
dle bar and cumbersome parts, ns com
pared with those of today, one cannot
help being amused by the following:
".Since 18(19 hundreds of thousands of
these machines, wonderfully perfected in
the principles of their construction, in
workmanship and in material, have been
scattered over tho world."
At that tfme there was a total of less
than $0,000,000 invested In the entire
bicycle business. Chicago alone has in
tho neighborhood of $12,000,000 investod
in the bicycle business. Tne lirst riding
feat to attract the attention of the public
was the ride of lon Keith Falconer, woo
rode from Landsend to John o' Groat's.
The distance, 004 miles, was made in a
few minutes less than thiitsen days, and
tbe performance was considered of sulli
cient importance to have the rider make
a tour of the country and give lectures
on the ride. The present record for tho
ride is less than one-third of those fig
The lirst race meet that is chonicled is
tbat given by the Worcester Bicycle club.
Tin hrst race on the programme was a
two-mile affair and was won iv 8:51, The
fastest mile of the day was 3:21, while
the half milo was reeled off in the "phe
nomenal time of 1:30." These three races
constituted the day's programtne.and are
referred to ns an exciting race meet.
May 22, 1883. the league gave a banquet
at a hotel in New York city. It was at
tbis time tbat the League of American
Wheelmen was having a hard tight to
establish its right to rule on the road.
As a result, a number of the speeches
tbat evening were on tbe progress that
bad been made in a number of suits that
had been begun to establish tbe point
that a bicycle was a vehicle, and as such
entitled to a half of the road. Among
other things that wore prohibited to the
bicyclist of tnat time was the use of Cen
tral pans, New York. Finally a meeting
was arranged at which tbe cyclists were
to be given a hearing before the park
board. A number of tho prominent rid- 1
ers ol the day went before the board and
gave their views. Ono of the points that
was brought up was that about every
for.n of vehicle was allowed in tbe park
with tbe exception of tbe bicycle. One
of the speakers had a groat deal to say
on the subject of allowing goats in the
park. The arguments wore without avail,
however, at the time, and it was only
after the greatest effort on the part of tbe
riders that they were finally accordod
the use of the parks and driveways.
In 1882 it was estimated there were all
told 10,000 riders in tbe United .States and
Canada, one in ten of whom wero mem
bers of the league. In those days a rider
on the road would not think of passing
another rider without saluting, and if it
were 011 a country road tbe riders would
dismount and have a little chat with eacii
other. Then all riders were bonded to
gether in one cause.tlnt of securing their
rights,and ns a result it was almost equiv
alent to being a member of a fraternal
order to be a rider of a bicycle.
One of the most interesting of recent
inventions In the bicycle business is that
for adjustable handle bar by T. H. Bur- 1
ton ot Chicago. The invention relates to
an oscillating or adjustable handle bar
for bicycles, its object being to provide a
construction whereby the handle bar may
be rotated into any desired position to
adjust the elevatio.i of tbe handles; and
furthermore, to provide measures where
by tbe angle of the handles relatively to
the handle bar may be adjusted so that
the handles may be raised to any desired
height without necessarily changing the
direction of tho axes thereof. It has been
proposed heretofore to provido an adjust
able handle bar for bicycles, but the con
struction has always been such that it
necessitated tbe disrnountng of the rider
and the application of a wrench to un
screw anil screw up certain parts. it is
1 Columbia 1
fe A \ S§
I 1
1 # W i
|| - of
You Sec Them Everywhere
£k? price of THE BEST BICYCLES
I $105 I
It's the Columbia Price Each for One or More pss
J Stephens & Hickok 8
Agents for Southern California
||| 433 South Broadway, Los Angeles gj|
the object of the present invention to pro
tide a construction whereby tho position
of the handle bar may bo adjusted with
out dismounting.
tin Mr. llurton's invention the handle
ar is mounted upon the steerintr post in
such a manner that it may bo rotated, a
catch or jocking device being provided
for normally maintaining ttie handle bar
in position. A thumb piece is situated
in a position to ho conveniently reached
by the hand of the rider to release the
spring catch or locking mechanism and
permit the rotation of the handle bar.
The inventor also provides means where
by the handles themselves may lie rotated
relatively to the handle bar, so tbat the
handle bar may be moved into any posi
tion Without changing the position of tno
handles within tho hands. For this pur
pose tho handles are pivoted at their ends
to tho handle bar and normally main
tained in position by a spring catch or
locking device crbicn may be released by
a thumb piece situated in a convenient
position to bo engaged by the hand of the
rider. Mr. Burton provides a single
thumb piece which controls the locking
device of the handle bar and also the
locking device ot both handles, whereby
when the thumb piece is engaged by the
hand of the rider the bar and tbe handles
are free to bo rotateil into any desired po
sition. There is a further improvement
contemplated whereby toe handles work
themselves automatically on the end of
the bandle bar.so that they do away with
tbe locking device on handles.—Chicago
j Inter-Ocean.
if. St. Maur in the London Sun:
"Yea," said bonny Mre. Grady, glanc
ing at tbe clerk, "my busband is late for
"Half an hour, surely," remarked the
friend and guest, adding in a slightly
acidulated tone, "Christmas dinner, too"
"Poor man!" was all Mrs. Grady
voatichsafeu, witb a compassionate smile.
Neither of the speakers was young; as
a matter of fact both were between the
forties and fifties.
"Do you like your husband being late
tor dinner?" asked Mrs. Chasely.
"Not at all," was the answer, "es
pecially when you are tuy guest.''
"Shall you scold him when he comes
"Wait till I tell you something that hap
pened during the lirst threo months of
my married life. As you know, I'm fond
of housekeeping, and prido myself on
knowing how to cook, how to select a
good cook, and, above all, how to keep
her when I've got her. Tho thing I took
most pains about when 1 started house
keeping waß a cook. My husband always
came home to dinner, my dear. One
day, Wodneuday, of tno ninth week of
our marriage, I remmember it perfectly,
cook and I evolved a perfectly lovely din
ner, but it wanted to be eaten directly.
The dinner hour was (>:o(i. At b:l!u I was
seated in happy expectation at tno win
dow. Six-thirty—Henry would turn the
corner in a moment. " six-thirty-live—
be hail not turned the corner. How I
fumed and fidgetted and fretted! My
hands got all hot in the palms. At 6:43
I had ruined my clean handkerchief rub
bing them. Aa I left the room to get an
other tho cook sung out, 'This dinner's
spioilin' mem.' 'Tho master will be
here directly, Ann, I'm sure.' I tried to
answer cheerfully, but tno conviction is
even now forced upon me that tho tone
betrayed irritation. At 7:lb in came
Henry. I greeted him with, 'O, Henry
how could you he so late? The dinner's
ruined—ruined !'
Rambler Bicycles
Thomas H. B. Varney, 427 S. Spring St.
"He sairl lie really couldn't help it. Aa
the table maid put on the dishes she re
marked in an acid tone: 'The cook told
mo to say, madam, she was very sorry,
but the dinner's been kept so long it'a
quite spoiled.'
" 'You can tell thecook we have no diffl
culty in ascertaining that fact for our
selves,' snapped out my lord and master,
by way of reply. The meal was gloomy
and only picked at; the evening still
gh io liner.
'•At 10 o'clock I went up stairs and had
a good cry.
"The next day after dinner, which was
punctual and all right in every way,
Henry said—and I never forgot what he
said: I'm going to give you nearly tbe
exact words he used—'Come here, little
woman, (I was a little woman then) 'and
be lectured. You were very angry at my
being late for dinner yesterday. You
need not have been. If you bad stipped
to think a moment you would not have
been so put out. Doesn't it occm to you
that when a man has been hard at work
all day he gets hungiy and {tired toward
(j o'clock? That when he knows that
there is a jolly good dinner and sweet
1 ittle wife waiting for him' (be rut the
dinner first and tbe wife second) 'tnat
he's going after those two very good
things us quickly as he can? I spoiled
last night's dinner, my darling, to
arrange some very important business.
You shall not develop into an acrimoni
ous little shrew if I can help it; so take
fair warning. I shall develop into a very
nasty husband if you do so.' "
"And did bo, my dear?" queried Mrs.
Replied Mrs. Grady—"He csrtainly
did; 1 didn't forget that lecture for six
montns, and then it was nis birthday
dinner, it culinary symphony—he was an
hour late. I greeted him wdth: 'Oh,
Harry, this is too cruel of you!' "
"What did he do?"
"He put on bis hat and left the
house." -
At this moment tho door burst open
and a hearty voice ejaculated:
"My dear Mrs. Chasely, I'm so sorry
to be late. If I hadn't'the best wife in
the world your dinner would be spoiled;
but come in, I know it will be all rignt."
It is reported that a bicycle builder in
England is working on a wheel to carry
seven riders. It will prove a great nov
elty for exhibition purposes if for noth
ing elso.
It is reported in Philadelphia that the
salary ot a good class A man thcrabouts
is (lo per week and traveling expenses,
in addition to tho prizes he wins.
The negro Baptist Sunday school con
vention ut Augusta recently warned
negroes ot tho United States to stay away
from Africa.

xml | txt