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ELLEN OSBORN'S LETTER.
Bummer Evening Frocks and Philosophy About Bicycle Gowns. Berkshire Honse Parties, Costumes On the Saratoga Itaee Track, and Predictions for the Early Autumn —From Dotted Muslin to Velvet •nd Fur. (Copyright, lsM.hyßacheller. Johnson .vßacheller.l I like to listen when a man talks about woman's fashions, because he thinks he knows. And sometimes he does, of course; but oftener its only that he has a theory. A man who was telling me about bicycle costumes yes terday said that tho prettiest he had ever seen flashed upon his delighted eyes in Central Tark about nine o'clock In the morning. The girl who wore it had curly brown hair, pink cheeks, and ft thin, yet rounded llgure. These things make a difference as regards any frock, though this is a point thnt might not stick deeply Into any man. The dress he admired was of dark blue alpaca, or the knickerbockers were of that color, for it wasn't a dress at all. The knickers were quite scant, as the tendency is these days, and were worn with white leggins and a white silk blouse that was cool and fluffy, and feminine. This model bicycle girl bad a white elastic belt and a cute little white cap, but the point of the man's remarks about her was that knickers, especially when they are not imuL-y, and the girl inside them is riot baggy either, are breaking up n routine which has not given women v chance to know A NEW CYCMNfi DRESS. why they are not equally good-looking all around. It had never occurred to mc before to suppose that any man could be so unreasonable us to exact of a woman's back the charm of her face, but this man was audacious enough to suggest that a woman in motion ought to be pleasant to the sight, no matter what elevation of her confronted you. " Now the ordinary straight aklrt." he contended, " presupposes that a wo wam is to be always in repose. So long as she stands still and sits still it looks well enough, but the minute she begins to walk the motion of the legs draws that plain, undraperl front up in what the artist must call most ugly lines Certain effects want to be hidden or exposed frankly. What seems like an unwished for exposure Is always to be shunned." I This means, according to the man s I notions, and the man is a person whose opinions are not altogether to be des pised, either a return to the old-time skirts, draped in front, which make a bit of decoration out of a woman, Ig noring completely the mechanism of her limbs, or else—knickerbockers, which show the limbs candidly, and make them openly essential to the pic ture, or else—and why not?—both, one costume for the house and another for out of doors. The man's philosophy may have something In It. but so far as fashion's tendencies point at present one can only ( say that v.heelwomen are going to ride tor Arrt MX. In draperies or In much tighter knick erbockers than those now seen. The baggy bloomer things catch almost as much wind as skirts, and are utterly destestable to the eye. As for divided skirts they are a compromise, where open confession that the woman who compromise won't do. They are an wears them would like to wear knickers but dosen't dare. Cowardice in such matters is fatal. It must be petticoats Two HOUSE PARTY FROCKS, or breeches, and at present it is breech es in New Yurk, and to a large extent west of Xew York, but petticoats every where in New England. So much for a homily. To get upon b-ss debateable ground. Late summer evening frocks are charm ing in themselves and tell tales of the season to come. At a dance at the coun try club, Newport, Miss Pauline Whit ney wore the prettiest dress of the evening. Its plain skirt of white taf feta, figured witlr golden rod. suited her slim young beauty amazingly. The low trim bodice —blouses are going out. mind you—had stripes of gold passe menterie from shoulder to waist line. A little ruth of soft spotted white net ran about the corsage und the sleeves were uncountable frills of taffeta, with ruohings id' net to make them yet more like butterflies' wings. i irr the grand stand of the Saratoga race truck there have been this week some few very smart toilets to be seen. Black and white muslins made up over pink seemed to catch the eye at every turn, lilg whit straw hats were worn with them, with trimmings of white chiffon rosettes, black feathers and pink roses tucked under the brim. Early fall dresses are showing them selves at the house parties among the Berkshlres. A fawn-colored (loth was a good one noted at Lenox. It had a bodice embroidered over pale blue cloth, and a shot fawn cloth cape lined with blue silk and finished at the throat with white chiffon ruffles. A large black hat went with it, and was trim med with black chiffon and blue Dres den ribbon. The autumn coats are close-fitting and often reach to the ground, Velvet cloaks fitting like tailor dresses are al ready on sale. Tbey are trimmed with Jet ami fur, have gorgeous satin lin ings of blight brocade, and are softened with lace upon the shoul ders A dark green velvet cloak that I saw yesterday had trimmings of guipure lace, and long tails of sable falling from the throat. Short open I coats are more seasonable, but show jno especial peculiarities, except that I their sleeves are smaller than last spring. ] ELLEN OSBORN. f,09 ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING. AUGUST 25 THE END OF THE CENTURY WOMAN SARATOGA AND REFORM. The Springs, the Local Parklnirst, the Young Girls and the Horses. FAMILIAB FACES ON THE DEIYE. Some Details About the Driving Out of tho <iv in birrs—The Woman Willi n Post— The Outlook. Saratoga, Aug. 24.—Whan I entered Congress Spring Park, one of these sun ny August mornlnga, and at) the world Is taking Its morning gulp of the spark ling, salty water, and tho hand plays, and the loaves rustle, and the rainbow lights flicker in the spray of the little fountain; when tlie pretty girls in pink and white vying with the roses In their cheeks, dance In on dying feet, and fat old women waddle after, tight laced and short of breath, with lavender rib bons and purple faces, nnd temples darker than purple: when nil day long I see the crowds tbat come and go, shopping, taking excursions or plan ning picnics on the lake, when, nt the parade hour, that unrivalled succes sion of smart tournouta that we all remember, flash) s past again, not a Heck on its varnlah, not a stain on its trappings, not a spot on its gleaming silver mounts; when In tbe throng I see the familiar faces of Judge Hilton and Frank Work, and Hilly Sheehan, and Ren Wood, and John A. Manning, and James A. Moore, and H. D. Polhe mus, and Shayne, and Seligman, and the Trasks; when, ns the evening shadows fall, the girls promenade bareheaded up and down the sidewalks in front of the verandas, where their mammas sit and gossip with chance acquaint* ances. and when one lies and listens in the ought-to-be-silent watches of the night to the unending clamor of preparation for a new day—then one cries out in recognition of its familiar face: " This is Saratoga." But tt is Saratoga wdth a difference! It Is Saratoga, Parkhursted, Saratoga after taking tbe pledge. Saratoga try ing to be good. Saratoga in a transition stage, uncertain yet how it is going to enjoy virtue and the approbation of men and women—especially women. "My dear boy." folks used to say of Saratoga, "they wear diamonds for breakfast there." The words used in its description were " flash," " glitter," " brilliance," " luxury," " extravag ance." A solid substratum of respecta bility the place hns always had, since the temperance reform in America was started on Congress Spring water; and it hns it still. Hut the froth has been blown away. The gambler's wife, or fe male companion in less legal relation ship, no longer makes a shew of her self and her paint pots and pearls. There was a time when the box that would hold the biggest array of gowns was called a Saratoga trunk—or. for short, a " Saratoga "— as a matter of course. downs are no longer the dis tinguishing characteristics of the place, though there are plenty of good ones. Until this present season, open gam bling has always been tolerated here since the days of John Morrissey. It is stopped. The rapacity of the haek man has boon curbed. The place is as quiet nnd respectable as Chelsea, Mass., 1 and it is wondering whether respecta . Ulllty is going to pay. Ordinarily it is taken as a matter of : course that respectability does pay; but Saratoga is peculiar. It has 13.000 per manent residents and likes to see .".."..ecu to 40.000 hotel guests and cottagers in the town to make things lively. The hotels are the biggest in the world, and when they are not full Saratoga weeps tears, saline, ehalvpeate and genuine. TIIK GAMBLER AM' Till-: GIRL, Tho big hotels were the ones most favored by th" gamblers in the old days. " when things wui run wide open;" and the gambler was noted for his shy, retiring dis]>< isltlon. Neither was the woman wdth a past, and the gambler's presents. So people somehow got the notion that these two represented Saratoga. They didn't It has always been the paradise of the young girl. It is even more so now. She is here by the thousand, every where, filling the place with the wafted scent of faint perfumes, and the sight of fluttering draperies, and the music of her chatter, nnd the merriment of her laugh. The Saratoga girl is a type by herself, less athletic than she of Bar Harbor, less faded and worn with soci ety dissipation than she of Newport, perhaps more charming und more sim ple than either. And now and then one sees wander ing about, like a ghost revisiting the scenes of Its fleshy activities, a chemi cal blonde of the adventuress type, sadly engaged in speculating what has struck the place. It has been " Parkhursted." Till-; PARKHURST OF SARATOGA. It is the fashion to say of a reformer tbat he is a Parkhurst. The Parkhurst of Saratoga is the prealdent of the village, elected on the reform issue. He is Charles H. Sturges, a local lawyer. Really Mr. Sturges Is rather a busi ness man than a reformer, and is able thf. horning: hour at one of thr springs. to give business reasons for what he | lias done and aims to do. He is a wiry, grizzled man. wdth a frank manner and a thin, typically American face; somewhat aged by recent Illness. I found him In his little office in the.Town Hall, mending some toy for a little shaver of four, whose big sister ot" six looked on with Interest. When the ma chine had been adjusted to work prop erly the children ran away and Mr. Sturges said: " It is a little early to say what the effect of the change here will be. We who live here are confident that It Will in the end be wholly for the good. If it makes Saratoga more of a cottage and family resort, we shall be well satis fied to do without the gamblers. Ol course some of the grocers who sold CHART.ES A. STIRGIS, THE PARKHURST OP SARATOGA. supplies to the gambling houses, and some of 'b" hotels which were especi ally fa- I by the patronage of fast men. ai< suffering. But we get unex pected testimony In favor of the re form, inn- of the best-known gam ll rs here has said to me: 'Of course this is bad for my business, but you can't make Saratoga a family resort in any other way.' "A broker has told me that he knows of many of his associates who do not dare come to Saratoga, because of the temptations tbey meet here. Nor did they care to bring their wives and wonnr.Awx—jt n.iE henry mrvrox'.s place. children here because of the danger of their making undesirable acquaint ances. " Substantial men have asked me if we really meant business, nnd. if gam- Mini; is to be put down and kept down. If it is. many such men have said they will build cottages here. The owners of real estate are In favor of the reform to a man. So are the women, both those who live here and those who come here as visitors. Without the women the reform would have boon im possible. ono of the biggest hotels In the place is owned by Saratoga people. Their houso lias lost trade, for the time, by the closing of the gambling places, but the owners favor the reform, because it will benefit them in the long run. On the other hand, the lessee of another of the very largest hotels is a non-resi dent. He says, naturally enough, that his lease Is running right along, and he's not so much concerned about the future as about the present." " The haokmen grumble a good deal," I suggested. "Of course, for the gamblers were free with their money when they were flush. But even the hnokmen are bet ter off than when some of them used to gamble at the tables away every cent they made. "The future of Saratoga?" said Mr. Sturgis, w axing eloquent with his topic. "It is secure In its advantages. Begin with the springs, piped from bed rook, the best of them, nnd numbering about forty In all. We have graded or macadamized roads everywhere, so ar ched with trees that when you look from a high place upon it. the whole village seems like a green bower. The elevation ranges from 225 feet to more than 300 above the sen. We are Just at the edge of the Adlrondaeks, nnd our prevailing winds, the northwest, come to us straight from their tiny spaces. The hike near by furnishes boating and fishing. We are In the reform to stay, tlie people are satisfied tliat they will benefit by it." W HAT A iIOTKI, KEKI'KR S A\S. Some of the big and famous hotels . look pretty lonesome. The Relied I ranks pf rocking chairs along the miles • ■I' verandas are liitie in demand. But j when, at one of the smaller hotels. Which would be big anywhere else, I asked the landlord how be liked being reformed, he said: " I have turned away twenty-five people to-day. My : house has been full for a month. I'm I satisfied. I never did have any of the gambling crowd here, and I don't want Ih"m. My guests are quiet, plain peo ple, and I believe we shall get more of them than before, in the long run. Saratoga lias been getting; a bad name, like Kong Branch, and it will take time to build it up again. But its the only salvation for the place," This landlord hns enlarged his house In preparation for the present season. THE BACK TRACK HARD HIT. The race track was one of the glories of old time Saratoga, and it is appar ently going to pieces. Several reasons are assigned for this, and they must be taken for what they're worth. Some say that the new owner of the track. Mr. Walbaum, is so unpopular among sports that they don't like to run their good horses here. Some have it that the gambling houses brought fast men to Saratoga, and that they supported the race track. Some blame the new racing law of New York State, which forbids pool selling. All the big hotels have had no tices up stating that guests desiring to undertake " financial transactions" with respect to the races could be " In troduced to responsible persons by In quiring at the desk." There dosen'l seem to have been any difficulty about betting under this arrangement, and plenty of it was done. But it was a " frost." In former years the management has given away 1,200 or 1,800 season passes to the race track, and lias pretty well 1111.-d a grand stand seating 3,000, recouping itself by the money received from the betting and other privileges. Tbis year there were no deadheads, the attendance varied between 400 and !<OO, and the season was closed prematurely after heavy financial loss. Five times as many people watch the " purely agricultural ho:;s trot " at a country fair, as the name and fame of Saratoga have this year called together. WHAT SARATOGA IS LIKE. Saratoga. Is as truly American as Newport Is British. The men who come here are busy money makers from Troy, Albany. New York and cit ies farther away. Many of them come for a Saturday to Monday stay, and this gives lhe verandas a feminine look from Monday until Saturday, whereas Newport Jias plenty of men idlers all the week through. They have plenty of money, these Saratoga guests, but they like to keep on . making more. They scan the Wall street reports post ed daily In the hotel offices, and their conservative women folks study Ro man antiquities in the House of the aldile Pansa, and go to hear lectures on dry. Improving topics by Bishop Newman and the Rev. Wilbur F. Crafts. A great many people like women to be conservative. The old-fashioned American, who likes to drive a trotting horse. Is here with his Uncle Sam face and chin beard, giving no visible sign of his de light as he spins along the road. A lot of extremely fnt women are here, lolling back In their carriages, and hoping by drinking nasty tasting spring water to get thinner without exercise. Pretty girls ore here by dozens, by day in pink waist and blue skirt, by night In fluffy gowns of white. There are other girls, but not nearly so many, In swell white duck by day and evening gowns by night, wdth pret ty pink cheeks, and pretty, white arms and pretty slender figures. There is an unusually large propor tion of dowdy, ill-dressed women, who waddle when they walk, wear laveudar gowns and discuss their ailments. The springs nnd the good air bring them. There are tennis players ami bicy clers very few; golfers not at all: oars men occasionally. Not one man ap pears in golfing plaids to ten In Bar Harbor. The girls wear tan lecglns and short skirts, while bicycling; never bloomers. There are two camps of gypsies who amuse by telling fortunes, and one camp of Indians, who amuse by selling trinkets. There are excursions, walks, lectures, theatres. And there Is the horse. SAHATOA A HOUSE HAVEN. Opposite the drooping race track is a shady grove, sacred to hospitality. It is called " the horse haven." This might be the name for all Saratoga. It Is a horse haven, and a girl haven. Everybody notices here the absence of athletics. The horse is the reason. Everybody drives. At one end of the village Is " Wood lawn," the princely estate of Judge Hilton and his partner. .7. If. Hughes. Their acres nre counted by the hun dreds, their private drives, to which the public is freely admitted, by the doz ens of miles. Judge Hilton himself drives, a sturdy figure in late middle life, with an iron gray moustache. Mrs. Hilton seldom uses a carriage, but for the convenience of guests a dozen " rigs " and twice a dozen horses are kept. At the other end of the village is a similar estate belonging to Spencer Trask, the banker, beautiful wdth bosky dells, musical with tinkling waterfalls, cool with wafted spray. Here again the drives nre open to the public, and here too the guests of the house need never walk away from the deep porte cochere of the great gray stone mansion overlooking the lake and fair prospect to the southeast, for want of horses and a phaeton, or a pony and cart. Midway of the village is the I-ester cottage, occupied by Senator Edward Murphy. Hither came a fortnight ago, the couple in whose fortunes Saratoga takes the deepest Interest —ex-Mayor Hugh J. Orant, of New York, and his bride, Senator Murphy's daughter. Hugh Orant is rich, handsome, neither young nor old. and was a batehelor for so many years that be drove the New- York girls to despair. New he and his bride are the most noted couple on the street. He Is as skillful in the saddle ns he Is handling the long reins, but the saddle horse is little used to Sara toga. Before the big hotels just before the "driving hour," which Is Saratoga's great afternoon sight, as the throng nt the springs Is of the morning, the pri vate carts stand four deep in front of the great hotels. They belong to tran sient guests, and horses and men jour neyed here together, the former in their box cars as comfortable as their masters. So here's to Saratoga. Its horses and its girls! And may reform be to them a blessing, not a blight! ELIZA PUTNAM HEATON. MY LADY'S HAMMOCK. It Is a Gorgeous Affair This Season And There Are FetchtnK Gowns Which <Io With It And Hosiery Like a Beautiful Italian Sunset. The girl who Is spending the season at a fashionable hotel is forced to miss one of the most faseinnatlng pleas ures of summertime, namely, the ham mock. At the really swell hotels now-a days one rarely sees a hammock, for the reason, perhaps, that the hammock is a sure destroyer of lace, chiffon or the fashionable costumes that custom demands must be worn all day at the popular watering places. It is only that fortunate young wo man who is summering at some coun try farm house or big. roomy mountain hotel where there are plenty of trees about the shady piazza nooks that can enjoy the true comfort of the ham mock. The watering place girl can only dream of the luxury and the piazza rocking chair is the nearest approach to teh graceful swinging couch, cano pied by green waving branches which her sister in the mountains spends the long morning hours In. The tactful maiden studies her " type" before she makes up her mind to adopt the hammock as a permanent summer hack ground. There are cer tain styles of girl that look as though made for a hammock. In it they are marvels of grace and prettlness, but the stout, comfortable, well fed young TnE HEAItT-SHAFED CUSHION. woman who may make a fetching pic ture on a bicycle is as much out of place In a hammock as it is possible to The slim waisted, •'fluffy" girl is the klml that looks well in a hammock, ghe becomes a soft, limp mass of lace and ribbon, the moment she adjusts herself to its meshes, and if an inch or two of her stocking shows beneath the white lace of her skirt it doesn't look at all shocking', but on the contrary, chic and'appropriate. The Hume-Jones type of girl is therefore the special kind who makes her hammock tho piece de re sistance in the artillery with which she will wage successful warfare on the heart of the Summer Man. First, she selects her hammock. If she is a blonde she gets one of cool iooking white cording, or In nine and white stripes, with bamboo rods stretch ed across the head and foot. Then she selects the place where it is to hang, al ways a corner some where out of the general. „ If she Is of a romantic disposition she finds out some rippling resting place where the tree branches bend across, and she will have her pretty resting place suspended right across the water, climbing into it each time at the rlsV. of a wetting. Here she makes a veritable illustration of the verse: " Summer day; babling brook; Girl in hammock reading book!" The girl with dark eyes and brown hair selects a hammock of brilliant red Mexican grass, or some other Oriental looking weave. She piles it with silk en cushions of the same rich hues; deep celnisons and otjve greens and here nnd there a Persian covering that stands out among the Others, making an effect that delights the soul of any ar tist which may be in the vicinity un til he begs for the privilege of sketching the hammock's occupant. The fair haired blue- eyed girl has blue and white cushions and little pil lows for her ears, covered with white dotted Swiss and trimed with Val lace. I picked up one of these rldticu lous little things the other day and learned for the lirst time that they ex isted. Just Imagine a cushion about five inches square stuffed wdth cotton and a suspicion of violet sachet, mndn specially for to tuck under your ear among the larger pillows. The heart shnpe.l cushion Is one of the novelties for my lady's liammocK "summer day; babbling brook; sub in hammock, reading book!" this year. It Is shaped exactly like thai real article which is supposed to ex ist even in the bosom of summer's mer riest maiden and it Is embroidered over with its owner's favorite flower, and sometimes a motto or sentiment. One of the prettiest thnt I have seen Is covered with margtie rites embroid ered in the natural colors and through the blossoms runs the line in gold thread: "He loves me; ho loves me not? " Another with a border of the ox-eyed dnsies says: " 1 don't care what the daisies say; I know I'll be married some fine day! " This slimmer girl not only has the regulation tag upon her hammock with her name thereon, but she attaches it with a huge bow of ribbon matching; her cushions In color. The ends of this hang so low that tbey sweep the grass beneath the float In every passing breeze. Of course thero are frocks specially for hammock wear, and stoaklngs ami shoes of attractive design to be worn when reposing in this luxurious swing. At no time in the career of a summer girl are her feet more in evidence than when she is poised in ber hanmock or getting In or out of It. This last operation is cne which it takes considerable dexterity and grace to accomplish successfully, but after a while most of these clever young wo men manage to do It without turning an eyelash and with a not too-reck less display of ankle. It looks wonder fully difficult to a mere man, but It all depends on a little quickness and a cer tain curves of the limbs In getting out, which keep:; the skirts in place. A man is apt to g< t all tangled up In a hammock, und he emerges from one THE FAIR HATItED GIKLi AND HER EAR CUSHION,, as a rule looking as though he had been in a collision. But the hammock maid en has It all down to a science. She fixes up her last summer's dresses to wear In the hammock. Of course there must not be too many buttons upon any frock for this purpose, as they catch in the meshes and come off. as a usual thing. But plenty of lace and soft ribbons can be worn and a gown which could never be worn any where else, own ng to Its last season's cut, makes a most effective costume for hammock wear, A pretty little girl who affects the hammock pose to a considerable ex tent, confided to me the other day that she discarded stays in her hours of open air repose. She wore some mys terious sort of waist made with whale bon.', but without steels. "When I've been out tramping, or fishing, or driving, and get home tired out " she told me, " I just run up to my room and bave a sponge bath. Then I slip Into one of these waists, which is ever so much cooler you know, put on my loosest and fluffiest ham mock frock and get down here under the trees, and in a minute I'm enjoying as pleasant a nap as it is possible to imagine." This girl has a collection of pretty hosiery and shoes for her afternoon si esta. She has one pair of the daintiest French morocco " mules " or slippers Without any upper part in the back, which she wears with red silk stock ings. Then she has Japanese slippers In all colors and hose to match, some of them finite vivid in design. One of tile, oddest conceits are her " rainbow" stocking.'!. Her pleasure in wearing them must be that of the small boy with his first cigar," purely Intellectual," for they nre strictly invisible, but I suppose there must be a sort of conscious de light in the possession of such frivols as these. They nre worn with a small. Innocent-looking brown suede slipper, which buttons over the instep with three large brown buttons. The stocking which shows over the ankle is brown, the same as the shoe, but as it reaches the calf of the leg it lightens by degrees to a golden yellow, turning with a sort of beautiful Italian BUnset effect into palest violet, and then deepening into purple nt the top. The garters worn with this are of block elastic, through which runs a violet ribbon. The side knot is of the same ribbon, and the buckles aro of en graved ami oxydlzed silver, an owl on one symbolising night, and a lark on the other for morning. These are the most fetching of all her hammock pro perties, and It seems a pity that they are so unobtrusively worn that tbey must necessarily remain undiscovered, unless a hammock costume of bloomers be adopted. Kate mabterson . The Mule's Misfortune. An old darky lived in the South who wns a great barterer, and it was very hard to boat him on a trade. It seems ho bad sold ft mule, guaranteeing him faultless. The purohaser shortly after enme back in a great rage nnd said: "Lock here, you fascal, that mule you sold mo ia blind in one eye; you assured mo ho had no laultß. "Dot's right, sah; dot mulo hub no faults If he am blind in ono eye dat am his misfortune, not his fault, "~ Harper'o Young People.