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ELLEN OSBORN'S LETTER.
The Early Openings and the Things Seen at '"'-^m, AUTTJMH> HOUSE PABTY GOWNS The Tailor Dreaa and First Things - Shown for Evening; Wear- Several New Notions in Hats. SJDHjlJllglll. ISWi. by Bar-heller. Johnson it Bacheller.l O the average stay at-home life seems a little better worth the living, or. to put the same thing in the morbid fin-de slecle phrase, death Is not so well worth the dying when folks come back to town and the shops aregay. Two society girls who went into dressmaking. ... a couple of years ago. for the reason that commonly sends so- erlety girls or girls of any other type into an active occupation, held a private opening this morning, and the first thing that struck my eye as 1 looked over their pretty things from. Paris, .Vienna and London, and designed right here at home, was a matter involving »purely selfish considera Jin. It appeared tai sue that I saw a chance of being reason watg eossfortablsUhts winter. The explana- Qhji to simple: I found myself among open tttrasted walking-gowns. it fs impossible to understand how the stock collar has held its own so long. To 60SB0 woman it is becoming: to most wo gtSs). not. It spoils the curves of the throat, •sally unfittingly one for wearing evening dress to advantage, and it is not cleanly. The hair will come down upon the silk or ribbon and soil it, dress the tresses high as ._. raay. It Is a prison, too; "stocks" in reality, and it is an unspeakable relief to a woman who likes to live in her clothes, not to feel hooped and barreled by them, to come upou chic autumn frocks open at the neck, even if it is not reason that has •jbrought about the change, but only the lr vresistible persuasion of the voluminous AN AL'TfMN JACKET. »ell. Tt'ith the yards upon yards of gauze that are swathed about the neck at present, high collars are next to impossible. But one doesn't need to pry into causes. It is enough to take the goods the gods provide and be satisfied. Among the new tbings In tailor gowns shown by my society dressmakers was something very pretty for Miss I'auline Whitney. It would do to wear among the trees when the maple trees are dropping •ad tbe blaze of autumn color flames every where around. A very fine faced cloth of a deep crimson shade was cut with a full plain skirt and a trig little Jacket with short full basque opening upon, a double breasted white waistcoat with Wg buttons. The jacket had one of the biff, new collars that reach down to the sleeves, and the sleeves were shaped from big drooping puffs on the shoulders to closerfltting wrists fastened with four white buttons. A pic ture hat of crimson felt was added, with decorations of black velvet and long white ostrich plumes. V mixed tweed in peach color and brown was another thing I looked at closely. It was meant for a hunting costume to take Into the Adirondacks In October, but as the fair lady who Is to wear It, just smiles upon the sportsmen and does not shoot it would do quite as well for an outing dress for any sort ct excursion. It was a simple frock enough, with that skirt everybody has learned to know —straight across the front and dipping into folds all the rest of the way around. The close fitted bodice fastened with mother of pearl buttons, reaching in an angle to the left and then back down to the waist line. There were pointed revers that gave the effect of long shoulder scams—a prophesy of the seams that really are to come. When they get here, we'll have very different sleeves, you see. The revers were embroidered with black braid and there was a kid belt with a gold buckle. The hat was an odd little affair of brown straw, with a straight brim, a high crown, and for garniture, a heron's wing. The new hats seem to come in slowly. Felts are usurping the place of straws and in spite of the "strong feeling"—pardon the trade journal expression—iv favor of high crowns, there are plenty with flat brims and rather low, soft crowns. One that was ordered a few days ago for Miss Virginia, Fair, was of a very soft grey felt with a ONE OP THE NEW EVENING GOWNS, I circle of upstart tips ell the way around the crown, .lust over the eyes in front, to vie with their sparkle, was a big diamond I buckle. For rough and ready wear are ( Boft felts trimmed with quills. For concert wear are little felt bonnets with white i wings pointing straight in air above each ear. Eveninf? dresses begin to be interesting. In the trousseau of a late September bride are Included several that will figure at the smartest functions of the winter. One is a rich yet dainty robe of silvery blue satin, embroidered in gold and silver threads and van-colored silks with enormous chrysan- A CROUP OF FALL JIATS. themums. The design Is toned down more i or less by veil draperies of silver-spotted I tulle. The bodice has a broad folded band I of blue and Rilver velvet, into which are tucked chrysanthemums. More costly, perhaps more effective, is a dress of pale rose-tinted satin with silver and diamond embroidery marking the seams of the skirt and the low-cut bodice. The corsage is softened with an edging of lace and has epaulettes of roses. For the same fortunate young woman Is an evening dress of black lace, caught, on the shoulders with clasps of diamonds. The sleeves are of old point lace, with rosy tulle peeping from beneath them. House parties at Tuxedo and up the Hud son bring to the light of admiring eyes heavy pique dresses in bright colors and adapted for wear quite late In the fall. One that I have seen was of cream brown, with deep Vandykes of cream lace about the skirt and with lace edgings running up the seams to hide under the brown velvet waist band. The coat bodice was of the now fa miliar Louis XVI. order, with cream trim mings and sundry paste buttons. Better I liked a frock selected by Mrs. Morton for her eldest daughter for wear at the inevitable afternoon tea. It was a black and white checked silk with blue fringed gentians flung upon it thicker than those flowers of autumn ever grow. A baud of black velvet tied the waist and the fullness of the front—for in spite of fash lon's decrees to the contrary—there are still fronts that have fullness —was drawn to one side and held by a big butterfly vel vet, bow. The collar had another velvet bow to finish it, a bow with fluttering ends. A pretty dress worn at a Delmonico sup per ihe other evening was of blue taffeta with a blue chiffon flehu edged with white lace drawn about the shoulders, crossed, tied In the back and falling low over the skirt behind. A large white felt hat was worn with this costume, with white feathers and a bunch of pink roses. In the same party was a grey blue moire dress made quite plain, but of exquisite fit. with a pelerine of white lace falling over the shoulders. The white lace capote was trimmed with white chryanthemums. There were pearl-grey gloves and a pearl grey velvet sash. ELLEN OSBORN. LOS ANGELES HERALD; BUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER 22 THE MAIDEN UP TO DATE GROUP OF CLEVER GIRLS. Interesting Departures in Industrial Art by Women. GETTING OUT 01 THE OLD RUT. Girls Who Cater to the Poster Craze. —Others Act as Art Direc tors In Printing Es tablishments. Women who wish to make their art studies In New York a profitable investment have discovered in the last few years that the popular avenues in industrial art are getting to be just as overcrowded as in any other business. It is impossible for a girl to make even a modest living designing book-covers, not to speak of the $3,000 a year which crowned Miss Alice Morse's first efforts in that direction. The young women who are now making marked success and Incidentally a com fortable number of dollars in Industrial art are women who have planned new depar tures for their talents, or have taken im mediate advantage of every fresh opening. Kvery firm iv the city that is in any way associated with industrial art or dependent upon the workers is always on the alert for something new and original, and to meet such demands is the object of the clever young artisans. Designing "book-plates" for the owners of large libraries is perhaps the latest de parture, unless an exception is made In favor of the bright young woman who has kept up with the procession by designing some of the most original bill posters of the season. Other women have gone iv for engraving and metal tracery and for decor ating interiors, employing methods entirely different from the old style of fresco in water colors. The position of art director in an up-to- COISN-ER OF THE STI'DIO OWNED BT MISS HICKS AND MISS EDSON, MOM A WATER COLOR BT MISS EDSON. date printing establishment Is a new open ing in industrial art, and one that so far has been taken advantage of almost ex clusively by women. One of the best known Industrial art workers now in New York is Miss Myra Burr Edson. of bill poster fame. She is a western girl, with the proverbial western pluck and ambition. Her studies have been mainly carried on at the Artist-Artisan School, under the guidance of \Valter Shir law and John Stimpsou. She started, as do most freshmen in industrial art desiguing book covers. Excellent examples of her skill in this line of work appeared last winter in the exhibit of the Architectural League. "But." as Miss Kelson said In a recent in terview, "to earn one's living in New York as an artist one must possess versatility as well as talent. It is Impossible just to work along one line. Why, even men like Chase and Butler must put aside the ideal and paint portraits for a living. My most successful innovation has been with my bill posters. The one that I did for tho spring exhibit of the Artist-Artisans is, I believe, considered the best. It is really very interesting work and I wonder that other women have not taken it up. The de light of it is that you can set your imagina tion run riot; and, besides," Miss Edson adrled, arching her brows, "it pays." Miss Edson has done some really clever water-color sketches. One espeeally pret ty in color and technique is a corner of tbe studio occupied by herself and Miss Hicks, wbo has made a name for herself as art director for several well-kuown printing bouses. The studio of these two bachelor maids is on c of the prettiest In the city. It is up many flights of stairs from one of the most crowded thoroughfares, away from all the rush and roar and as quaintly pretty as rugs from Hindoostan, draperies from Java and Japanese sketches on the wall from the clever brush of Robert Blum could combine to make it. Miss Amy Mali Hicks, who is largely self taught, is a Brooklyn girl. She is tall and rather delicately built, but showing both in manner and expression an Immense amount of force and determination. Miss Hicks's first work was wall paper design ing and some of her pronounced successes MiSS KM MA KEDDINOTON LEE. were shown at. the Columbian Exhibition. Finding that this work alone could not be made to pay she did metal tracery work for several years for tho Tiffany Company. i work in which she cxcells and which at present absorbs most of her time Is that of directing the art work at various printing presses. All the line work of the Lotus Press Is done under her supervision. Her end of the business is mainly designing elaborate programmes, menus, whist cards, etc. To fill such a position satisfactorily a thorough grounding in historical aud or nameutal art Is necessary, as well as a knowledge of most Intricate lettering and an ability to conventionalize all ideas. Such a position pays from $25 to $30 a month, and as a woman is not often called upon to give over three mornings or after noons per week to each firm, the remunera tion is fair. The latest fad among the owners of fine libraries is the use of the "book-plate" In place of the ordinary inscription. These plates are small, not often over three in ches in diameter, and are beautifully de signed, sometimes with the family crest in terwoven with some bookworm's favorito motto: sometimes the design Is gotten up wholly as an emblem of the owner's taste or some fad In literature, and again the conception is left entirely to the imagina tion of the artist. This line of industrial art .requiring both skillful lingers and love of detail, has natu rally fallen almost entirely into tho hands of women. Miss Amy Richards, a New England girl, is one of the most skilled designers f book plates. Miss Richards came to New York, as did most of her fellow workers, to learn to design book covers, but. although un usually successful in this lino, she found that to make her living it was necessary to branch out, that woman could not live by book-cover designs alone. Richards'a working room Is on a pretty old-fashioned street Just off Fifth avenue, where from the front windows she can look out upon trees and even grass. She shares her pleasant quarters with Miss Aspinwall, one of the most artistic design- ers of wall-paper patterns in the city. Miss Richards has been a hard-working student for several years at both the School of Applied Design and the Artist-Artisan School, making a special study of ornament al and historical art. At present she la working entirely without supervision. "I do not believe," she said recently, "in working in a class-room too long. One learns to curb rather than use the imagina tion. Of course, a good designer must study under masters to acquire technical profi ciency; but after that has been accom plished I think the sooner a young artist tries her wings the better. If she is de ficient she will tind it out soon enough—to her sorrow—and if, on the other band, she MISS BESSIE POMEROY LEE. possesses her share of talent the more orig inal her Ideas, the less she is hampered by what has been done tho better for herself and the public." Painting on canvass and cloth-of-gold is an interesting occupation which has ren dered two young Brooklyn girls indepen dent. The credit for this novelty is due Mrs. Wheeler, of the Associated Artists' So ciety, and some of the cleverest designs for this work have been from the brush of her famous daughter, Dora Wheeler Keith. Mrs. Keith, who has recently returned from Paris, is now devoting her attention to portrait work in pastels. The two young ladies who at present fill most of the orders for interior decoration received by the Society of Associated Ar tists are the Misses Lee. Miss Bessie Pom eroy Lee has made a distinct name for her self in the art world as a decorator of "in teriors." The first work which brought her into prominence was the execution of a series of frescos for the beautiful residence of Andrew Carnegie. Her designs for the library of Mrs. Charles Pratt, of Brooklyn, have also brought her favorable notice, proving as they do not only a fine sense of proportion, but an unusual color sense as well. The library of Mrs.C. B. Alexander, of this sity, was also decorated by Miss Lee, but. probably the work which has brought her mo3t prominently before the public Is her decoration of the ceilings of Mr. Fred vanderbllt'a yacht. The younger sister. Miss Emma Reding ton Lee. devotes her entire time to filling orders received by the Associated Artists' Society. Some of her finest work is done on cloth of-gohl. This beautiful material, which is especially designed for art work, is woven of fine linen aud gold thread. It costs $12 a yard at wholesale, and is the preferred background for all goigeously colored fres cos. In painting this material transparent colors are employed, so that the lustre of the gold is relieved, giving a splendor ot finish impossible to gain from either can vass or plaster. Although canvass has been somewhat su perseded by the favorite cloth-of-gold, it is still largely employed by artists who ad vocate its durability, strength and firmness of texture. The beautiful peacock room in the house of Senator Sawyer, the "perpetu al Senator" from Wisconsin, was done by Miss Ida Clarke, who painted great sketch es of canvass in her studio and afterward superintended their adjustment in the room which her handiwork has made almost as famous among artists as the celebrated peacock room in London by Whistler. THE NEW WOMAN. Random Dashes at tier Winning Wiles and Ways. '•Rost.niruut mpn liko the New ffo mail," said one of them, "she eats lots more the other kind. The way the type-writers nnd stenographers down-town have changed their way of feeding in the last ten years is one of Hie signs of tlie times. It used lo be 11 clip of tea and a piece of cake or pie for lunch;—now see the beef aud bam and hot stews they get away with. And they show the change In their looks lo; they're not breaking down as they used to do." Ellen Terry has all her kith and kin up before the camera to furnish her Willi photographs to bring to Ameri ca. The two things she never travels without are a tea-making out-lit and full collection of family photographs. She pols these last: in ber Steamer bag gage and always litis them out todec orate her stale room ou a voyage. Tho woman of all women who held the public attention in Central park on a recent sunny day was on a wheel, wore the fill trousers that hare not yet ceased to create a sensation, and car ried a baby iv front of her. A police man said she was the first wheelwo mau that had appeared with a baby. Mrs. Potter recently told a friend that she had not been allowed to see her daughter since her return to this country. She wants her own mother to bring up the child, but tbe Potter's profess not to like Mrs. Urquart's rec ord in that lield. Hair dealers say that the English women wear more false hair than those of any other nation, particularly now when most other women wear none. The custom and extensive ad vertisement of waves, bangs, fronts, etc., In their papers confirm the state ment. Mrs. Margaret Sangster, the editor of Harper's Bazar, does more signed writing outside hey editorial duties than ay other editor in New York. Religious poetry is one of the fields she is conspicuous in, publishing much of her work in denominational religious papers. She is aCougrega tionalist. The woman with a talent for dress says: "Why wont women earn to put on their belts so that tbey will slope downward in front and up in the back? All good fashion-plates make the waist line dip a little in front, and t is an easy thing to accompish, and yet only the cleverest women and tiie cleverest dressmakers manage it. It does every thing for the waist in making it look slender and sweet." Some Washington people want Levi P. Morton for our next president, for no other reason than that Mrs. Morton when in Washington lends her high sanction to an effort to form a fashion able carriage meet at the White Lot—a sort of park back of the whte house. Fashionable folk want to make a second Rotton Row of the place, but they haven't exactly succeeded as yet. Miss Waite. a niece of Chief Justice Waite of tho Bujreme Court of the United States, is one of the residents and most earnest philanthroplcal work er nt Hall House, Chicago. The way that women not respect able have put themselves in evidence on bicycles in New York City made one man say Ihe other day: "In a year not a decent woman will venture to ride a wheel in the city." Aud then a lady answered: "I don't believe the women will be so foolish as to give up wheel ing for any such illogical reason. They might as well quit eating because dis reputable women frequently make three meals a day. The funniest thing developed in cyc ling is tho way the swell women at Newport and such places take their maids with them on a second machine, and then insure that servants shall have a properly inferior aspect by put ting them on low saddles. There's nothing like a low saddle to give a wo man a plebian air. - Young women who find a coat of tan becoming (and many do) and would like to keep It on os late as possible, can do much to brown their skins with it mixture of heat and sun. by oiling the skin before going out of doors. A soft cloth will remove all look of grease and yet leave enough to increase the tanning process. HE KNEW HIS RELATIVES. A well-known Brooklyn contractor who died recently came from a family of Irish men noted for their quarelsome disposi tions. His lawyer was somewhat surprised when he read his will to come across a clause reading: "It my relatives fight over this will when I am dead, I will write a codicil that will make their heads swim."—New York Journal. DOROTHY. London Forget-Me-Not comes to the con clusion that the most popular name to be ■ stow on a baby girl at this time is Dorothy, ' for out of 178 girls' names In the catalogue I of tho babies whose portraits were shown at a recnt baby show. Dorothy led all the rest. TO COLLEGE WITHOUT CASH. How Bright Girls Support Themselves While Getting an Education. VERY DITFIOULT UNDERTAKING, It Cnlls for Strength, Courage nnd Moro Than a Littlo Cleverness, Yet It Can Be Done— Pos sible Occupations. S ther enot some way by which I can work my way through college? 1 bave known many cases of young men sup porting them selves while tak ing a college course, and why not a girl? I bave plenty of energy and ambition, anil am willing to do anything, if you will lout point out tho way. What can I do?" This is the sort of appeal that every mail is bringing to all the leading col leges for women, and the replies, while full of friendly advice and encourage ment, arc 100 often obliged to conclude with tbe warning: ••There are so few ways in which a student can earn money, and so many students to take advantage of every opening, that in earning money a younger student is al ways at a disadvantage." Naturally, it young girl who has no help from any source, and plans to take the four years of the college SOMETIMES A CLEVER CURL TURNS HAIRDRESSER. course consecutively, that is, without stopping to till her purse by the way, is going to have a pretty hard struggle of it. It is an undertaking that calls for large supplies of physical strength, courage, intellectual ability and prac tical skill. Nevertheless, It can be done, ns some of the brightest women who have ever graduated from our col leges can prove. At Cornell, for instance, thero are half a dozen girls every year who man age to take the course without any money but that which they earn while studying. Several of them earn their board by assisting in household duties out of study hours in the families of some of the professors and others inter ested iv the work of the college. One girl earns her board and room-rent by taking care of her landlady's baby for three hours every afternoon. Then, with a scholarship to cover tuition, their necessary expenses are asily cov ered. It is a plan that can be carried out satisfactorily iv ninny colleges, aud is particularly desirable as making no extraordinary demand on a girl's physical or nervous powers. There are, in all college towns, a uumber of families who would receive students on these terms, and they would be, in no sense of the word, treated as ser vants. Wells College, of which Mrs. Cleve land is a graduate, is an institution where it is possible for a bright, ambi tious girl to work her way without any extraordinary difficulty. She must, however, present satisfactory testi monials of character and scholarship to the president, besides passing the entrance examination, or submitting credentials from an accredited school. The college offers a limited number of scholarships to worthy applicants who j stand In need of help and come pre pared to take the full four years' course. These scholarships vary in value from .$;10 to SIOO, and may be held for one year with the privilege of re newal. There are, in addition, various opportunities for giving help in the president's office, in the library, in the stationery room or iv the laboratories, of which students may avail them selves. At Vassar, too, though there is not much opportunity for a student to earn any considerable sum of money, they are always ghtd to encourage self-help as much as possible. The Vassar stu donts'uid society is composed of grad uates and teachers of the college. Ulher friends of the college and the work are allied as associate members of fifteen branch organizations. Its scholarships . are assigned as loans to applicants j passing without condition the entrance j examinations held by the college. Dur ing the year 1893-94, these loans num bered twenty-two. nnd amounted to 94,466, I" sums varying from $100 to $400. The college also possesses a loan fund, from which amounts are loaned to applicants without interest. In ad dition there nre numerous full and par tial scholarships with which the col lege has been endowed from time to time. All the larger colleges have sim ilar funds und scholarships, though on it smaller scale than at Vassar. As. however, there are. on an ave rage, about a dozen applicants for ev ery scholarship, it is plain that some of the ambitious girls must look to other sources for aid. In most eases it is Heller for a girl to earn enough to cover the major expenses of her first year, or al least the lirst semester. This gives her a chance to look around her and see what opportunities there may be for her to make money. Tutoring pays about DO to 70 cents an hour iv most colleges, but naturally this work all falls to the older and more experi enced students. A knowledge of mil linery is very apt to be a very profitable source of income, but the girl who hopes to make much money in this line must be sure that she has thoroughly mastered her trade. Dressmaking is another paying occupation that can be carried ou in connection with college work, but it is more physically taxing than millinery. Mending, manicuring, shampooing, can all be depended on to bring in numerous half dollars from wealthier students. A great many rich girls are willing to pay the expenses of another girl who will take care of her room, mend ber clothes, help her with her studies, und iv genrul relieve her of the burdens which college life im poses on her. This is, however, one of the least pleasant ways of achieving an education. The greatest danger that menaces the struggling girl at college is that her health will break down under the double strain of study nnd work. Hera it is that the young man In BlmMt kU enmstances has the advantage, for reasons that are too plain to need pointing out. Th wisest course is lirst to earn Sufficient money for one year, either by teaching In schools or by mer a few more girls follow the time honored example of men students, and earn a nice sum of money by working in some capacity iv the resort hotelj and bonrding-hor.scs. With this te start on, a healthy, capable girl would some trade or profession. Every sum be quite justified iv commencing hef college career, and whatever institution she may select, sh may feel assured that the authorities are In sympathy with her and will give her every assist ance iv their power. One girl who Btf A COLLEGE MILLINER. gan the- course last year at a large col lege, With no other provision than the money she had saved from a year'st teaching in a small country school, found that sho could, by making occa sional trips to the city, earn a consid erable sum of money by shopping for the other students and teachers. She registered at all the principal stores, and they allowed her 10 per cent, on all purchases, so that she was able to sup ply the articles to her fellow students at the regular prices. She had natural ly good taste, and she exerted herself tok eep abreast with the latest fashions, so that the other girls grew to depend on her judgment. This, of course .refers to the larger colleges; that is, the colleges where the expenses range from $400 a year up. In some of the western colleges, and lv the state universities, while there are fewer opportunities for earning money, the expenss are lower, the tuition in some of them being free, so that tho girl who stops to earn money at tho end of each year before proceeding to th next would probably find her path not at all a difficult one. SHE IS GETTING THERE. Iv speaking of the organization of a woman's department iv the Catholic University ut Washington, Mgr. Sa» tolli said: The Churel has never op posed the aumihslon of aomen profes ! sors or students to the Church univer sities, and that the present movement iv favor of the higher education of women was, in reality, only a revival of a state of affairs which existed prior to the fifteenth century, at Padua. Bologna and Salamanca universities." There were many eminent women doc tors of law and of medicine in Italy be fore Columbus discovered America. The tendency of the present day is but a revival of the chivalry of a past age> in which the capacity of women for the mastery of tlie higher profession al studies was freely conceded.