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ELLEN OSBORN'S LETTER.
Being a Ohat On Chicago Fashions And the Chicago Girl, WABM 00L0BS OF THE BIG CITY, Frocks to Be Seen On the Boule vards, At Theatres, Lunches And Receptions And In the Boudoir. fJbpyrlght, 1K96. by Bucholler, Johnson * BsohoUer.) Chicago, Oct. J3—Sometimes little differences are more interesting than big ones, because yon have to look ■harper to tind them, and then they as sume the proportions of discoveries. One American city is very like another, and yet Chicago is not New York by any manner of means. T wonder if it Is possible to put the difference into a sentence. If it is, I should say, Chicago is more American. If it is not, that, ber women are not tailor-made on the streets and alto gether Parisian at afternoon teas; they wear just tbe same clothes they would wear in Gotham, but they wear them with a peculiarity. And it is in putting one's finger on tbis peculiarity .that the discovery lies. The peculiarity is color. Chicago lets nerself go. If Chicago business men hadn't let themselves go in trade this (Wonderful city wouldn't bave grown np at the foot of Lake Michigan. If Chicago women hadn't let themselves BO lv the make and line ot their dresses they wouldn't be the piquant, pictur esque Westerners tbey are. For it is a mistake to suppose that to be right one must always be subdued. Good taste is suppression sometimes but just as many times it is display. New Yorkers go to London too often. They come home too straight and se yere. Chicago believes in itself and in the great country west of it, and it Isn't afraid of red and yellow. Pretty Mrs. Yerkes bas a collection of yellow diamonds. Tbat is like Chicago and it Is becoming. Chicago isn't good to look at in Oc tober. Perhaps that is why I like the warm tones. When the wind blows strong from tbe luko the city seems rweary and weather beaten. The trees are a lifeless green with thinning foli age and it seta one's blood running to see the velvets and furs, the pomegrau lte reds and the rich damson shades. 3?hese things arc distinctly comforting. | Whatever the cause, I am glad Chi cago girls like plaids; they look well in them. The contrasting colors suit well their chic figures and splendid inde pendence, and it's worth an hour's iwalk to be out on tlie boulevards and Bee them pass and repass in blue nnd green soft wool mixtures, dark blue with lines of scarlet, golden brown checked with dark blue, crimson bar red with black, and every other combi nation that on a tall slender girl is jfalnty and dangerous. If I were to make a study of a Chi cago girl I should choose as a typo one I saw this afternoon. She was nine teen, maybe, tall, rather slight, and iwlth big, full brown eyes. She parted Iter hair in the middle, as we all do nowadays, and she brought one smart little curl right down over her fore head between her eyes. She wore a dross of S oft green cloth on an olive shade. The skirt was wide and split up the side seams to show a knee deep killing of green and crimson silk. The bodice had bread square fevers • of green silk, wilb large cut steel buttons on tbem. turning hack from a crimson silk waistcoat. A full fold of green silk formed the waistband. There were little silk cuffs and a collar., and around the shoulders WM Hung a shawl-like cape of green silk tbat bung in straight, stole-like ends almost to the ground. Tbe hat was a green felt, trimmed with reddish brown chrysan themums. Under "'c brim at the back was a big green velvet bow. That doesn't sound quite like New Tork, but the effect was prettier than that of most New York costumes; prettier because it really belonged to the girl of the "windy city;" it was original and individual. Western women Spend quite as much money for dress ns their Eastern sis ters—more. I believe. But It is not fair to say they do not spend it as well. They express themselves In their attire A BECEPT ION GOWN. I better, so far as I bave seen. A few evenings ago I went to see Ada Behan at llooley's. Scattered through the audience were a number of strikingly pretty theatre gowns. One tbat was worn by a rich Chicago wo man, past her heyday but still radiant and beautiful, was golden brown cloth, cut in the princes Be style. The cor sage was finished with two rows of ir ridescent buttons. A city knows good dressmaking when it leans to tbe prin eesse. Such a dress shows the band of the mistress. A successful princesse is rare and great. When this woman TWO CHICAGO MAIDENS. left her box after the ,aming of tbe Shrew." she drew about ber shoulders a long pelisse of black brocade lined throughout With sable. Itevers of black caracul flared open in front, turn ing right back over tbe shoulders and continuing i he fold quite to the ground. Filling the open front was a deep yoke of caracul and jet from beneath which fell an accordion-plaited front of black lace, in itself worth a fortune. A standing collar of black velvet and sa ble and overwhelmingly full sleeves with fur lining and lace ruffles com pleted quite the most magnificent cloak it was ever my luck to see. At a little luncheon given in honor of Miss Beatrice Ifarraden I had a chance to study not only the authoress who A NEW TEA GOWN. LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 13. THE MAIDEN UP TO DATE leaped so suddenly Into popularity bat also the windy city's ideas about after noon gowns. A • (lark, lustorloss red crepon wm the material of a frock to which 1 paid particular attention, it was creped With Wide black silk bands, soft and puffy, aud was made with the I gndet skirt that promises to be even more fashionable than last winter. It bad :t gored front sides and three plaits behind. It bad a narrow point ed girdle of skeleton jet. and tbe bod- Ice had a round joke of Jet over red silk, and big drooping sleeves. It's interesting, by tbe way. to see bow dressmakers are going to set rid ot tbe pouch front bodice, for their of fered substitutes as yet show little or no originality. To return to our muttons, a second Interesting afternoon frock was or dark green cloth with skirt trimmed with three ruffles of dark rose-colored taffeta. Tbis was a quaint frock alto gether after tbe modes affected by the 111-starred queen, for it had a soft-silk belt, and a silk fichu long enough lo cross the slender ends in front and tie loosely behind. The ueck was left slightly open iv a tiny V. A prettier frock or a prettier girl I haven't seen in a year. There are splendid brocades in all tbe big stores, and tbe idea seems to be to make them up for reception dresses, with slashed skirts tilled in with con trusting panels or pleating*. One of myrtle green and an odd shade of blue 1 bave seen made with a long redlngote over a petticoat front of velvet. In a cozy boudoir tbis morning (here blazed an open tire and the feet on tbe fender were not big ones. They were encased iv black slippers and black stockings and they bid presently under a tea gown of scarlet ohallio. strewn witb dull green Sowers. The breadths were set iv full al Ihe neck and flowed gracefully to the feel. A broad dull green ribbon tied the robe al ihe waist, and great Ixuvs were set on the shoul ders. The Sleeves were long and Mow ing, coming half way to the ground. Under them were pleated sleeves of green India silk, finished with creamy lace raffles. After you bad looked ut tbis picture for a while I think you would agree with me in liking the Chicago girl. ELLEN OSBOBN. THEY HAVE A LITERATURE. Muksmelons Have Formed (lie Theme of Lovers and Writers. Muskmelons have played a part iv history. Tbey caused the fall of Ar gues and led Mack to tbe capitulation of Ulm, One day the Abbe Bernls came to dine with tbe Marquise de Pompadour, wbo was furious because tbe maltre d'hotel bad forgotten to serve melon. "Shall I get two musk melons for you, madnme?" Hi- paid - louls for them. "Delightful," said the marquise, "My compliments, Monsieur l'Abbe." Bernls was happy until the moment when tbe clock struck his eye. "What makes you sad." asked tlie Pompadour. "Ob, Madame hi mar quise," be replied, "my friend Malvin and I bave only one pair of trousers for both of us. and be is waiting for it to go to dinner." Tbe Pompadour gave a pension of ;i.OOO Uvres and an abbey lo him. His friend became, under the same protection, archbishop of Lyons. One evening a strategist was explain ing to Bonaparte what he should have done if Mantua bad not surrendered. Bonaparte asked "You bave been in the wars. Monsieur." The strategist replied. "No. but I bave read PolybiuS, Marshal Saxe and Chevalier Folard." Bonaparte said "Ob, you are learned; Do you know how to make melons grow':" The strategist exclaimed, "General!" indignantly. Bonaparte continued. "You bave rend a Quin tlnle?" Yes, General," the strategist, answered. "You do not know how to make melons grow, although you bave read La Qulntlnie, and yet you talk to me about war because yon have read Polyblus. Good day, sir," Bonaparte said.—Le Temps. SOON MANAGED IT. A Liverpool merchant recently went to his bead clerk and said: "John, I owe about £10,000, and all 1 possess is £4.000. wbicli is locked up in the safe. 1 have been thinking that this is the right time lo make an as signment, but. what plausible pretext I can give my creditors, I know not. You bave plenty of brains: think the matter over and let me bave your de cision in tbe morning. ' The clerk promised to do so. On entering the office the next morn ing the merchant found the safe open, the money gone, and in its place a let ter which reads as follows: "I have taken tbe £4,000 and have gone to Sottb America. It U the best cxc use you can give your creditors."— London Tld-Blts. MERELY A MATTER OK BUSINESS. "Glorious sport!" cried tbe man by the roadside as tbe scorchers went by. "I can't see II," returned tbe man wbo was watering his horse. "That must be because you are pre judiced." said tbe man wbo bad lirst spoken. "It has everything.in its fa vor. I even tind it au excellent thing lor buslnes." "I don't." replied Hie other, sullenly. "From that 1 infer you are the pro prietor of a livery stable." "I am. And you?" "Ob, I'm a surgeon."—Chicago Post. A CRUSHING REVENGE. A man Willi a painful expression of countenance sat on i goods box. "Are you illY"* some one asked. "No." "Have you lost anything?" "Never had anything to lose." "What's the matter, then"''' "I'm stttln' or. a wasp." "Why don't you gat up/ "Well, that wu/, my brst impulse, but I got to think!n' that I was burtin' the wasp, its badly as he was burtin' me and concluded to sit here awhile." Spare Moments. NO OCCASION FOR ANY. "You don't need two whole seats," said the man standing up iv the aisle. "It sems to me you might, have a little accommodation about you." "Go chase yourself into the next car" responded tlie sleepy passenger who was lying down on the seat. "This isn't an accommodation train, sir" —Chicago Tribune, ABOUT GIRLS AT ANN ARBOR. How 600 Of Them Study In Peace With 2200 Young Men. GEEAT COEDUCATIONAL SCHOOL, Oon'l Flirt, But Snmclinies Call In Love—Lite In the Class* RoOntS, Campus and Boarding Homes. Ann Arbor. Mich., Oct. - - I have nev er wanted to be a new woman, bur of late it has been borne in upon me that at cci tain times and in certain places it. is line to be a new girl; almost as nice as to be an old one. When the Mlchlcan Central train pul- A CLINIC AT THE MEDICAL COLLEGE. Ed up at the Utile station at Ann Arbor some days ago. 1 looked forlornly at tbe big sign which said ! This side of tbe waiting room I tor men | and then at the peremptory remark ] Tbis side of tbe wailing room | lor women. and wondered vaguely if Ihe railway authorities wanted to make public pro est against co-education, ami what j tbey would do to me if I should cross I the dead line. Rut. while I stood hesi tating two tall Western girls, one in a blue blouse, one in a pink one and both decorated with knots of yellow and blue ribbon descended Upon me. "Are you a new girl." tbey asked in a breath, and then I retired that their ribbons said "Welcome" in big gilt let trs. and that while they addressed me their eyes wandered expectantly over every young woman wbo left Ihe cars. I said I was not a new girl but I wished I were, and they walked witb me ii)) llii' winding road over the hid to the tree-shaded campus of America's great eo-educatlonal university now Jus! beginning iis school year. My es corts were delegates from a reception committee to take care of new girls at Ann Arbor, and 1 have wished lor nothing over since but that they might always take cave of me. I have danced with the Vassar girls, boated witb the Wellsley girls,drank af ternoon tea in the cosy cottages of Ihe Smith college girls and gone to class with the [tadcllffe girls at Harvard, but Ann Arbor is a new experience. It is Western, but that is not all. Something of lis atmosphere would re main if it were sel down in ihe suburbs of Roston. Put 000 or more girls to school with 2.200 or more young men and what is tbe result. According to the Western idea gome- THE CAMPUS FROM THE GYMNASIUM. thing broader, wholesomer, more nat ural that if tlie two brigades were marched off different ways. The East bellevel in separa tion, and it gets, along with plenty else better, a stress, a strain, au intensi ty of work, a morbid lnsUitance on the duty-to-one-sex . which breeds new wo men. A girl needs to be very level headed to go through a girls' college and not come out weighted with a strong sense of personal responsibility in tlie matter of elevating the universe. Of course she gets over It. It rubs off along witb her Latin and Greek, and by the time ber lirst baby is in short clonic s siio can attend an alumnae meeting without reading a paper on some movements that ought to bo tak en up nt once by "us college bred wo men." But tbo Ann Arbor girl docs't seem to bave anything to get over. She is living, jusi as she will live all her life, iv ordinary human relations witb men nnd women. She isn't one of a class set apart. 1 bad al most said, npon a pedestal. She works bard, she plays bard, she is kept from spelling woman witb a big W by tbo fact thnt ordinarily tbere are plenty of men in the university who are more clever than she is, nnd. take ber all in all. she is (he most charming girl I have seen in many a long day. Once npon n time Ann Arbor must have had a magnificent grassy campus on the hills that overlook tbe Huron. To-day tbe tall imposing buildings so crowd tbe forty acres that all sense of siiace is forgotten.Witb maple and elm trees Shadowing I hem. rise the huge piles of stone and brick, massive with out, plain almost to bareness within, quiet, scholastic in their severity. It is twenty-Aye years now since girls were admitted but that quarter of a century has not Introduced a touch of prettiness or decora I ion. Except tho girls themselves. A col ony or (ill) picked young women is al ways worth studying, i nder the erim sou and gold of tbe falling leaves they pass in groups of twos aud threes lo tbe library, the chemical laboratory or the gymnasium! seniors in the pic turesque mortarboard mid cloak, some of the more athletic speeding Ibis way and thflt on bicycles. On tlio avenues that enclose the cam pus are grouped the fraternity houses •JN for (he young men, eight for the yi t is, making a college, city. 1 have not seen tbe like of it since I was iv Germany. Tliere is no dormitory system nnd so tbe fraternity houses are club bouses In the broadest sense of the word. Tbe students, so far as they can, room and board in thorn. The boys have built for themselves in some instances quite imposing structures, bul the girls have less pin money, as commonly happens with girls, and tbey bave rented little frame collages witb grassy lawns and hammocks on tbe verandas overhung by oak trees. Tbe piazza benches an' cosy wiih cushions, and if anybody asks you inside you lind a club parlor strewn witb books, bung with oictufes and decorated every- TIIE TENNIS COURT. whore with the university colors, yel low anil blue. It was In one <if those club parlors tbat tbo showing of a little Greek let ter pin made me In a moment the guest of a group ol' Ann Arbor girls. Tbey were rosy, darked-baired West erners, older, 1 should think, than tbe average of college gills Bast Nineteen ami a half, tbey say. is tbe age ut wbicb a girl usually enters, though in tbe medical colleges it here ate Iwoi and the College of icutistry tbey arc much older "Wo Bye by ourselves." said the rosiest and tlie darkest ot my chatty hostesses. "We hire a cook ami oue ot us acts as steward and earns her board by doing so. This brings the cost of a college education down pret ty low. Our board here is only $2.50 a week, college feet are $25 if you live in Michigan. $85 if you don't, und so you see we can get an education on what a Vassar girl would laugh at for pocket money. It is ensily possible for a girl to live at Ann Arbor for $200 to $250 a year aud I should suppose she would need to be very industrious in getting rid of cash to spend over J,'150. Of course only a small proportion of the girls live In tbe solety bouses, or sororities, though lliese give the best example of the free, unrestrained, self-respect ing life of the Western girl. Ohaper onea to themselves, gathered in little knots of hard-working, yet fun-loving members, these college chums study and play without any notion bow many BOlicltOUS questions their club houses would provoke iv the more convention al Blast "You receive callers here? - ' "lib. yes." "And if the callers arc men?" "There are commonly two or three of us together, aud if not, somebody euu. always he had In." "And bow do you amuse yourselves?" "There a c dances, and then we walk and 'btke' aud go boating a little; not QiUCb, the Huron is not good for that sort of thing.' "And do you get engaged?" "Do tbey iv Eastern schools';" "Not very often, though I have known of two weddings in one class of a small eo-edueatlonal college." "We don't flirt here." There was a good ileal of emphasis laid on the "flirt." "Hut once in a while, of course, students fall in love. There never has been a wedding until after graduation, but—" here followed a silence tbat was more eloquent tban words. Cupid is Ignored in theory at the uni versity of Michigan, but In fact ho finds a victim once in a while. Col lege marriages, the students say. are always happy ones, the lovers know each other so much more thoroughly than tbey could uuder any other possi ble conditions. Think of boarding four years in the same house with a young man—there are lodging houses that take students of both sexes and the sentiment of the place Is such that tbey are not beld in disfavor—and meeting bim besides In lecture and recitation balls all tbo time. Tbe etiquette of Ann Arbor is pecu liar. Professors sent the young men ' on one side of the room, tbe girls on 1 the other; or else tbe girls in front, the young men behind: or sometimes in the smaller classes tbey take places In discriminately. No acquaintance is supposed to arise without, a formal In troduction. That is to say, a girl may sit beside a young man every day for years and not bow to bim on the cam pus if they have not been introduced. "Thai is not. Western;" 1 said to the bright eyed junior curled up among ber cushions, "it is English." "Maybe." she replied, "but we are a community by ourselves." The junior aforementioned had three or four Creek letter pins thrust through various portions of ber apparel and ou inquiry t appeared tbat these pins were insignia of tbe men's fra- ternltles. So it stems that in some cases there urc introductions. Students drive together and walk to gether without c-bupenmen. "We have too ranch self-respect to imagine we need any," said the junior. At the small dances gott"n up In the town there are nstnrally older persons present, aud at the larger college receptions mem bers of ihe faculty will usually look iv. but: going and coming each man takes bis maid and does't care a tig for Mrs. Grundy. The college boys bave a song about the girls, which they use as a serenade when they pass under tbe windows of the girls' fraternity houses. One stanza of it runs something like Ibis. I caught it Imperfectly as a quartet were trol ling it, probably for the benefit of the junior, that evening: Here's to Ihe co-ed with brain full of books And noli-me-tangerc, frangere air, Wbo prattles of Plato and Calo aud looks Into Peraiua nnd Curtlua while doing ber bair. Qborua. oh. cobwebby treaaea of shining gold (Or whatever color they muy bc> Ob glances so coy and winsome nnd cold Of tbe co-cd that vanquishes me. Tills looks aa it the introductions were appreciated, tit least in some instances. The boys don't carry the girls' books on the campus, don't often walk with them, though 1 beard of one very nitc bit of repartee. A young woman was remonstrating witb it fellow student lor escorting ber homo every day: "(lot to do it." lie answered, "it would make talk if I didn't!" Here was a subtle bit of philosophy from which it appears that the usual cannot be defied,even if the usualbe the simultaneous appearance of a young man and a young woman. But Ann Arbor tbluks more about books than about beaux. Tuition is very low as compared witb Eastern schools, room rent; is almost nominal, board ranges from lf-'.50 to $4.00 ,aud th 3 result is that, while the rich mer chants of Detroit and other Western cities are apt to send their girls East for chances to spend money, yet up in Ann Arbor the sons aud daughters <>f Westerners of moderate means, to tbe number this year of nearly 0000, are living a typically American life and learning to be self-reliant American ctlsens, A round little blonde sophomore took me to ber lodging house, and here tlie glimpse of the ewig welbllche was charming. She and her chum rented a suite of rooms, parlor and bedroom, lor 18,00, eating at. one of tho larger dining balls, aud this I learned la so? common as to be tbe usual way ct Hy ing. At ?1.50 each for lodging and jfU.iM THE LAW LIBRARY. lor board, $1.00 a week pays living ex penses on a scale of comfort that leaves nothing to be desired by a good ro bust Michigan girl. If a girl hasn't got the board money she can wait on table and earn it and everybody will like her just as well. Tbe sitting room of the dainty suite had a piano. It bad books and pictures and cushions l (Cushions overflow Into the men's fra< temlty bouses and make rhera pedU« liarly comfortable looking.) The sit ting room had pretty china and appli ances for making 5 o'clock tea. It had an open fireplace and a deep, luxurious rocker, so that it was not all hard to believe tbe sophomore when she look" ed reflectively at a jug of dark bluu IN THE OPERATING IIOOM Ob! THE DENTAL SCHOOL. asters and said: "I never was so hap py as since I came here.' Everybody lias asked aud nobody bus) ever found out satisfactorily how thd girls rank in their studies in such a bis co-educational school. Dean D'Ooge, of tbe college proper, wbo is also pro* fessorof Greek, told me, when I put tbo question to him, tbat in his classes tbe girls not infrequently came out ahead but tbat in mathematics and phil osophy; the students commonly jvera men. "Taking it through tbe different do< partments," he continued, "the rank; ami tile of the girls average better than tbe men, because they ore more con scientious and bave fewer distractions, but the very, best students are apt to be men." President Angell said substantially tbe same thing but added that ths medical schools had an exceptionally line class of women In more mature than the college girls. So the girls are not breaking rec ords at Ann Arbor, and, until the epi demic of new womanhood is over, it'a just as well, probably. There aro about one hundred women In the professional and technical schools, as compared with more than 500 in the college. In the medical college most of the lectures are given to men aud women together, though separate instruction is provided in some brandi es. In tbe dental college the number of women students is increasing but not large. In the law school there are not over half a dozen women and not more than one or I wo of these mean to prac tice. The rest are qualifying them selves for office work or take the course as a part of a business education. Tbere are few women iv the school of pharmacy, though a rush in this direc tion has been predicted, aud none in tbe engineering school. One of the pieasantest things about Ann Arbor is tbo Women's League. The girl students nnd the professors' wives form it. and they look after new girls at tbe beginning nnd direct tbo social life throughout the term time. It was tlie league that met me when I came and the bright helpful faces of the league girls 1 was sorriest to miss when I went away. But Ann Arbor can be described as well in a sentence as in two columns. It is strong, vigorous, American. It is wholesome, not intense. It would never read Sarah Grand. ELIZA PUTNAM HEATON. THUS ENDITH THE LESSON. Her Mother—"Besie, dear, I am sor ry to sc my little girl show sucb a lack of re«pect for her seniors, When a neighbor comes to call on us you should sit quiety aud not speak uuchs you are spoken to. You do not meat to be disrespectful. I am sure.but yoi should think of the impression yon are making on our neighbors, ami jot will try hereafter, 1 hope, to—" Bessie- "You'd beler look out. ma ma. You'll talk yourself to death" Chicago Tribune. NO NEED IN HIS CASE. Sunday School Teacher (solemnly)— "Every one must be born again." Tommy Traddles—"Please, teacher, I was born again, tbe first time." Sunday Scliool Teacher—"What do you mean?" Tommy Traddles—"l'm twins."—. Puck. t —Loud cries of "brown the buck!* will soon be heard. —.Tack Frost wll soon begin his u» nual eugegement.