Newspaper Page Text
WEAR LOOSE SILK.
m-H BEST MATERIAL FOR THF. WHEELYVOMA.VS UNDERWEAR. TIGHTS ARE IN DISFAVOR. Are Too Warm nnd Impede ilip Aoltnn of the Llmhs—Mualln ami Laces Wear Oat Quickly. NflW YORK, May 29.—1t has been estab liebed beyond controversy that a women cannot wear the same underclothing while fclcycling or enjoying other athletic sports that she finds suitable for her ordinary evocations. She may wear a set of gar ments while shopping, visiting, or even dancing, with comfort, that would be re strictive and awkward for bicycling. Out door sports are as necessary to woman's enjoyment of life as they are to the men. Women are doing nearly everything in tbe way of athledcs that the men do, and doing it well, too. But dress is always an Important factor In woman's satisfaction, no matter what she may be doing. Hence the anxiety to furnish her with the most de sirable garments for wheeling. Stores devoted to the sale of sporting goods have woman's departments. In these departments, while everything in dress can not be bought ready made, orders for things to be made can be left there with the assur ance that the order will be promptly ClieJ, no matter what it may be. To begin with, the wheel woman doesn't want muslin underwear. She has found that the delicate linens and embroideries and laces will not s:and the wear and tear of hard riding. They must be frequently laundered, and that means rapid wearing out. .Moreover, this kind of underwear is beating and bulky, and causes discomfort in a dozen d.fferent ways. China silk has been found to be the coolest material for the bicyclist's underwear, though close-fi: ting and woven garments, without superflu ous folds or trimming, that can be easily laundered, are popular. There have been many attempts to per fuade wheelvvonen to wear "tights." gen erally black, bu: the fair bicyclist does not like them. They cling tightly and are too warm. What is needed Is something loose fitting, so that there shall be nothing to impede the free movement of the limbs. The silk knickerbockers the: ore worn next the skin are the same shape as the bloomers outside but cot so full. They are buttoned below the knee with a narrow band and one button. They are fastened around the waist in a similar manner. Some women prefer wool Ins cad of s;ik. It might be thought that the wool would be scratchy, but it is of smooth finish, so that this defect does not exist. The greatest care must be exercised by the wheelwoman in the selection of a cor set. Under this corset Is worn a little silk vest. One of the new bicycling corse s 'c of coarse netting, with a broad steel support ing the silk elastic webbing which forms the sides. The corset is only about eight inches from top to bottom, thus allowing free move ment, and escaping danger of being itself broken. Many women makeshift when they begin to ride the wheel by resurrecting a pair of half-worn corsets and allowing th°m to take place of some specially male. But most of the corsets designed for ordi nary use are too long for comfort In riding besides being too beavily boned about the blps and stomach. A useful, healthful corset has a detach able addition tj the lower portion, which laces at the sides in much the same manner as the ordinary abdominal corset. This al lows freedom to the hips and gives added strength to the waist line. Another style Is a lightly boned little thing cut short on the hips, and still another reaches only ti the waist line in front. At the sides It comes aa low as In the ordinary corset, with double elastic bands around the body that give at every motion. A rust-resist- IN VANITY FAIR I Ing crrset steel 1* one of the Inventions j ■ that will te peculiarly useful to tbeb cy. l c : I One of the plagues of whee'vomen his' been the garter. It has either b?en so tight : as to impede the circulation of the blood o:' i it has been so loose as to le; the boss slip down. The knlckerb welters already de scribed hare proved useful In keeping up the stacking, for the tightly buttoned band Is a pretty good substitute for a garter. The object of hose macufacturtra is to moke a stocking that will stay up without I gaiters. They are made with an elastic top that clings, and the Indications are tba: the experiment will be a success. To Remove Spots. ! Crease «tn : ns on etnth nicy oftn bfl re* !■ end with magnesia. The stained piico Is first damprn^d; then tho magnesia is moist-, ened and vigorously rubbed on the stain. It must bo allowed to dry thoroughly. Then the powder can be easily shaken off.' Professor—When is the best time for gathering apples? Young Student—Please, sir. when the fanner's back is turned and is no dog In the orchard. ecru mcHnssr. »ppmqie BLACK LISSB. DREAMS. My library's not lined with treasures rare. With tt«psures rich, with treasures past com pare. No manuscripts It holds of Foe. or Pcott, And many nr" the autographs I've not. T'i yonder alcove, over tn the left. You'll And a spot of rarest tomes bereft; And there upon tho walnut chiffonier There stands no folio of Will Shakespeare. \ Now turn the k-jy to that not-buhl-work chest. And y-\?o Into its depths: no rare prints rest Therein—Ui ff t try. I pray, to take one out: The truth of what I say 'twill prove past doubt. Those Rtavenaona you fall to find up thera I Are. all of them, the rarest of the rare; And those edltlona of the poets pest i Hold not n "first" among them—ail are "last." ; And that small color ske'eh upon the wall Is not a fin" Cruikshank original. But, oh what joy Is mine to dream of what I haven't go*! —J. K. flanks, in Ila-per's Magazine. LOVE AM) JOY. Of all th» threads of rhym" which I have span, I shall be glad If Time save only one. And T would havo oarh word to Joy belong— A lyric like a bird whose soul Is song. There is ennunh of crlef to mar the years: lie mine a sunny leaf, untouched by'tears, To br'ne rti'n the heart delight, and make All sorrows to depart, and joy to wake. No sermon mine to preach save happiness. No lesson mine to teach, save joy to bless. I Icy—'tis the on« h«st thing below, above— The lute's dlvlnest string, whose note Is love. Tne Japanese serve radishes and salt as a relish with rice, and also to furnish waste matter. In which rlre Is deficient. FOR A LITTLE BOY. HEALTH HINTS Good fruit Is Infinitely more productive of health and beauty than sweetmeats an 1 pastry. Ripe apples are especially healthy, and children may eat them without danger. Some doctors say that an apple at bedtime produces sleep. Pears are more savory than apples, but not so healthy, unless cooked. I'runee have medical qualities which cannot be denied. They or? better cooked, how ever. . Apric3t3 are alf-o more healthy cooked than raw. Peaches are very healthy. | Tho most be.tlthy of all fntlr, however, are : ?r:ir<v. baa been cured hv grapes when ev~ry other remedy ha* failed. Cherries may also he eaten, as they fre quently restore health and strength to 'ac weal?, Strawberries, though a cold fruit, bftV* the virtue ol healinc Qooseberrles and currants are best conked. Figs are ilea excellent They were In rrc.it favor with ano'ont Rnn'an la >I !•.■■<. who always ate their for brca*<u*cs-. Pine apptea ere (Aid tn be the beet cure fir lyspepsia jrot krown. Nuts of all kinds are : Indigestible Oranges are also excellent ai a cure for dyspepsia. Lemons produce j cheerfulness, and prolong life. i Qlvlng the height of the Venetian Venus, 5 feet .". ircV.es, r.s the accepted perfect stati.ro •'or n woman, here is bow you may , know whether you are a perfect specimen of your own rex by applying other rules laid down by authorities: For a woman of . r > feet B Inches 1"S pounds Is the proper weight, and I? she bo well formed she can stend another ton pounds without grently showing it. When her arms are extended she should measure from tip of middle finger to tip of middle finger just 5 feet 5 inches, exactly her own on nrnr rem. duchesse applique LACE OX BLACK OR WHITE LISSE. height. The length of her hand should be Just a tenth of that, and her foot Just a Ee.-enth. The distance from the elbow to the mid dle fio-er should be tbe same as the dis tance from the elbow to the middle of the chest. Prom the top of the head to the chin should be Just the length of the foot, end there should be the same distance be tween th" chin and the armpits. A woman of this height rhould measure 14 inches about the waist nnd 34 Inches about the bus' if measured from under the arms, and ,4? if over them. The upper arm should t measure IS inches, and the wrist six. The I calf of the leg should measure 14M Inches and the thigh 23 and tbe ankle 8 inches. The necessity cf using some emollient for the hair from time to time, is on estab lished fact. Many people foolishly neglect to do this because they object to have their heads at al! greasy, but nevertheless It is better for the hair that some nourishment should he used, especially after It has been washed. If rubbed into the skin, and only a small quantity used, there will he really no disorrreeab]=ness: It Is when It Is put on superficially, and the hair Itself plastered down, that the nartlness of It arises. A very peasant rosemary pomade may be made by taking half a pound of fresh lard and two large handfula of flowers of rose mary. Th»sp two things must be well boiled down In a saucepan until reduced to about half the quantity, then It must be strained off carefully so as to remove any gritty pieces that there might he left behind In •be ia.-d. and pet away In a small Jar. Just a very little of this used to the roots every week will keen th» hair In good condition. It Is always an Important thing to prevent the hair from, becoming too dry, as when this arises there !e always a tendency for the premature appearance ot gray natrc Fancy, masculine rosebuds! The most eomp!e-e and successful effort In behalf of lean year yet given is a debut tea In honor of a number of masculine buds. The young men, I' is true, had glory thrust upon them, hut they rose to the necessities of the oc casion nobly, as true men ere sure to do. The decorations of 'he rooms were in pink and each bud wore a I.n France bud. They forved tea and chocolate with astonish ing aptness, and altogether put the girls to the blush by their ability to perform these immense tasks. It Is further told that they made such ideal hosts that not one guest was overlooked. MISS UP-TO-DATE. TOLD IIRIHKI/Y. Ther-"* Is a project hiillfl a flrawbrlflge the Potomac at WnMiinrrton. Twelve electricians am reoulren! to look after the pbnt tn th*> Capitol Building, A play marked nroiirrl the roentgen rays is to ho in n nrrlln theater. A deposit of rr.anerinesr ore of pood quality Is reported to have been discovered near Car iins-villn. Ga. Du-Mtipr a remnt wok tho Patent Ornoe record" by receiving 1.140 appli cations f'jr patents. The Jap <m«se Oovornncnt Is asklne tor half a million dollars to improve and In crease (he telegraph service. A trial of mornr carriages for postal service wHI be innd<* soon In Vow York, and If suc cessful will he eenerally adopted. A system of supplying electricity to vessels from a submerged cable has been patented by K. Tt. La Sueur of Ottawa. Tanada. It ha.' been bur crested that the Hoards of Health of large cities require the wheels of all milk wagons to be equipped with rubber tires. The Roach shlnvnrd Is nt present very full of work, three larp;e steamships, two ferry boats and a large yacht being now in course ol construction. I Servant—Sure, mum, Rover's just afther I bitin* the Us off ay the butcher bye! I Mlfltreoa —Dear, dear, how dreadfully ! annoying! I do hope he was a clean boy, . Mary! "Oh. Jo—John," she sobbed, "I'm bo grieved to hear that —that Rover bit a fk"» out of your Kg when you called the other day!" "Don't fret about It, darling/* he said, lootbingly; "I'm used to leaving a sample wherever I call—l'm a commercial traveler, you know." THE LOS ANGELES HERALIX GOTHAM GOSSIP. i Arc wo really so disobedient and hoad- I strong? She .inld so, and she has just i come b*ck from her anual trip a.-ro.ss the briny, with roses on her checks, laughter in jher voice and diamonds In her eyes (and ; much lovelier ere they there than If they j were in her ears) "Oh!" she sighed. "Those English and French physicians who have for patients royal dames R!?:AL DI'CHESFE COLLAR. and wealthy mondalnes in London and! Paris do wonderful things. "When an I American doctor says to a woman. 'Now I ynu rest, keep quiet, don't see anybody, be calm,' she laughs and says, 'Why certainly, doctor, I do that 11 tbe time. I ana keep ing very quiet.' "Then the docto- r«r*. 'Remain at borne to-day. drive in your carriage this after noon, but by an unfrequented road.' " 'Impossible,' exclaims my lady, 'Im possible. Why, doctor, this afternoon I loin the coaching parade, and to-night we dine at Larchmont and come home for a dance at X's To-morrow I wdll rest.' 'That means that she has not looked at her social programme for the next day. When she does glance at It she will see that there Is 'oaasthing that she abso lutely must do. "Let the London doctor advise the Duchess of Marlborough to go to Carls had for perfect quiet, and she will go. She will leave her presentation gown ly'ng on the floor and throw her coronet across the room. Her physician has said Carls bad. The same with a Parisian or German woman, but the Americans are the Ir repressibles." —X— —X— —X— And al! the feverish unrest means prom* tore old age. It Is now no unusual eight | to see a young face framed In gray hair or dark hair thickly streaked with gray. A great deal of this premature grayness Is due to overwrought brains. Sometimes, however. It may be caused by keeping the hair too dry. Upon the appearance of tbe first gray hair a little pomade should be applied, perhaps once a week. After wash ing the hair an emollient should always be applied to the scalp to prevent the too great drvnoss of the heir as well as to promote its growth. The uso of a perfumed wash will give the hair a faint, pleasant odor, which Is most soothing to the senses. Swin burne speaks of "hair smelling of tbe South.'" —X— —X— —X— The crowd was transfixed. "And now," announced the lecturer, "this wonderful woman will close her thrilling entertainment by entering a den of mice who haven't tasted food for a week, feed them wkh raw meat and make them do tricks." Not one of the multitude could move, f-»l not an eye was taken from the Intrepid per former until tha heart-«ickenlug spectacle was at an end. —X— —X— —X— Fre h from her sea trip, Yvette Gullbert arrived in England the other day. She said 0' America: "About my voyage? Weil, jj.ais—l was sick, and I have now all my inside new. I went to New York, to Boston, Philadelphia aud Chicago, and I think I like Boston best. In the train we take for Chicago I ask my black man for a bottle of claret for lunch, and I had It. But when I ask for a bottle of claret for dinner be says, 'No; In the province of Ohio you can't have claret two times a day, or I will hav<> to go to prison.' I said, 'Very well, then, go to prison, but get me the claret first;' and after much ceremony I get it." Who shall ever again have the audacity READY FOR UEK OI'TISCI. to say lhat gentle woman was made only ;o cook, wash, bring up the children anil rally forth to market, there to buy things foi tVe amclinrutlon of the hungry con litioj of nun? " Mrs. Luella Wilcox St. Clair, president of Christian College, Columbia. Mo., re cently requested all the members of the class which will graduate this year to state briefly iv writing their principal purpose in life. A number of Interesting answers resulted. Ten of the girls replied that it was their principal desire to obtain further education, especially In art and niunic. Three prefer quiet life at home, that they au.» be a comfort to their parents In their iecllni.ig years. One desires to be a mis sionary. One prefers a career as a physi cian, and the b'gheat ambition of another you'ig lady la io be a hospital nurse. Three girls stated that it woe their wish to 'rsvel as much as possible. Only one edaiitted that marriage was her principal purpose in life. Several of tbe repließ were written in poetry. -x— —x— _x_ The eendhct of a woman on shipboard is n subject Impossible to predict. But it is easier to foresee that she will go abroad for her annual trip to the Loudon Mecca ot th. fashionables with at least the determination to ba charming during every hour of the I voyaga when .-he la visible. Hence she trip: up tho gangplank in all the glory of pic- I turn hot and fluttering ribbons; but whei tha plank Is drawn she goes below. ;o boY up serenely In a long minute with her Mlrlf tucked c.way under a Jaunty cap. and a plain, close skirt -I have seen some lovely "nrr, in mixed greens, varying from llgb •breads to almost black—and with a trim waiated Jacket. What agonies one mus suffer in tight corset and tight high cellar on shipboard, those who've tried It know, but "to be beautiful one must suffer." as he French philosophers say, and there is nothing to add. -I— —T— — T— The Marchioness of LI Hung Chang Is the richest woman In the Flowery Kingdom. Among her other possessions she has the exclusive rights of fifty methods of dress ing 'hp hair. Twice a" day this luxurious little .sdv bathes In oil of orange end aeae! blooms', and one thousand attendants are constantly at bpr service. Tn her ward robe are 2.003 coats and 1.200 "trourer ettps," which seems a very ample supply In view of -he fact that the Marchioness can walk but a few feet at a time. It la to note that she never falls to Keep a detailed account of the vast expendi tures of her household. —x— —X— —X — If you write down a resolution to never soy en unkind worn 1 again to anybody writs It w|»b a gold pencil. The material of which a pencil la made and the thought which prompted the words form an electric for le It magnetic? or hypnotic?) current which insures, security from frivolous* outside In f>eneer>! Thar may sound curlnu3. but It le the hasls of the up-to-date girl's new fad fancy pencils. Tho up-to-date girl these days nevor thinks of u r !ng a common, ordinary pencil, rieforo she approve.* of one It must be slipped within a sliver or gold holder. When the holders first appeared they were made of sliver, with a rubber at the end. Now thpy can be bought of gold, with a jewel In place of the rubber. However, th» newest holders are In sllvsr. decorated wi;h an enameled flag In the eollnge colors. The pencil holder deolgned for young women devoted to Harvard has a crimson enamel flag bearing the letter H In white ni\ Its decoration. Tho Yalp pencil holder has Its flag In the college colors, blue and white, and for Princeton the blue and orango flag Is seen. —X— —X— — x— While we are groaning In spirit over the amount of gorgeous nothing which our friend, the spring bride, thinks necessary to her matrimonial fellolry, If Is consoling to glance at this list of Lady Littleton's wed ding outfit 200 ypars ago. In those days thpy appear to hay? had quite as great a variety of materials as we, and they cer tainly used a ve-y extraordinary selection of names. The list runs: A black paddysway gown and coat. A pink unwatered pahby sute of cloatha. A gold stuff sute of cloatha. A white, worked with sneal, auts of cloaths. A pink he'strlng rmlltefl petticoats. A velvet mantoel primed. A love hood and a sneal hood. A paltarecn and a Turkey hancerchleff. A sute of knots. The watch end enuepage. A dnrmizeen mnhb and tucker edged. A pinner and quoiff of face lace. For earlier spring gowns, canvaa, which has somewhat the texture of grenadine. Is the material par excellence. That It Is already In great demand Is proved by the fact, that one of our largest emporiums sold out Its im portation of It within a few days afer putting it on the counters. They are made up with bright, linings that peep from the plaits of skirts and basques. And. apropos of basques. I have already said that, the ruffled and cir cular hip skirts are past their freshness. Now they are no less bunchy, but only behind, any by reason of a double or even & triple arrangement, of flat plaits. Here la a lingerie caprice. It cornea from Paris, and Is. of course, piquant Madame or Mademoiselle Novelty must needs have her Christian name embroidered In full upon her pet pleco of underwear. The em broidery Is a copy of her own handwriting and is dove in wash linens. It adorns the upper 'eft aide of her lace-bound chemlso; the broad collar flap of her night robe; the waist band of many-tucked sklrta and appears on corset covers, hosiery and undervests. Mono grams are voted "old-fashioned." and this modern "stamp" Is the vogue. I.lerre effects. In lace are new. Hluots are superseding violets In popularity, basket ball will bs much played thla summer. "But, Bertha, It was only last month that I paid a dressmaker's bill of JSO, and hare is another one for this month of $40." "Well, dear Edgar, you ace that shows that I am beginning to spend less." THE GOSSIPER. And now those exacting tyrants our pro fessors of golf and other games say we are stiff! And I have always thought in the innermost recesses of my modest mind that in soarlet coat, check skirt, gaiters and Alpine hat, that I was such a vision of graceful femininity I It seems to be generally acknowledged that the moat conspicuous fault among women golf-players Is a stiffness or lack of freedom in swinging the club, says "Har per's Bazar." This is the defect complain ed of by nearly every Instructor who has had women for his pupils. The full swing, which requires that the arms be moved eas ily from the shoulder. In order to bring the club well behind the head and cause It to describe a complete circle. Is seldom at tained In its perfection. One reason for this state of thlnga Is, doubtlees, t*tat women have been unaccus toaied to any exercise which demands so SIMVF.R NOVELTIES. free a use of tbe upper arms end shoulders, so that even If nothing hampers these mus cles it Is hara to lorco them Immediately to do their proper share of work. But an other reason, and one which is so easy of remedy that there Is no excuse for its exist ence, is that the player's clothes are fre quently too tight to admit of a comfortable or successful pursuit of the sport. The In structor often looks on in despair wdiile his pupil, in obedience to his directions, en deavors to imitate the swing. She simply cannot raise her arms as he does because the sleeves have been put Into her gown In such a way as effectually to prevent It. Besides that, tho proper movement ot tho body, which ought to receive nearly as much exercise as the arms, la usually Im possible on account of the enugness of her corsets. It should be said, however, that these crltlclsma do not apply by any means to all women players. Many of them have seen the hopelessness of trying to acquire skill under such conditions, and play In clothing which restricts them no more than does that worn by men. Shirt-waists care fully selected with reference to the loose ness of the armboles. are easy, and more suited to summer than sweaters. But the latter are very comfortable In cool weather and are worn by some of the most expert women players. Practically the aame kind of skirts as that generally used for wheeling has been found most convenient. —X— —X— —X— Summer tour*) are in progress, and, nat urally, suitable outfits are In considera tion. The old custom of saving for the travaling expedition the half worn out gown and hat has quite passed away, and we now see the traveler gowned gui to as jauntily for the journey as if would be for the street. And why not? People who can afford to travel for mere pleasure surely can afford the best service the train or boat affords, and such being tbe case, there la A SUMMER EVENING WRAP. A PRETTY EFFECT. no more fear of Injuring the costume tbaa If In one's own parlor; and then, too, shut up, as travelers are, for a long time with fellow traveler*, it is well to be so gowned as to be a pleasant companion, and not • guy In a frumpy gown. The London tailors are unquestionably the best authorities on traveling outfits, and from them are sent a variety of smart designs. One extremely handsome model Is made up In a soft Scotch mixture «f green and tan color. The nine-gored skirt flares smartly, and is decorated along the front breadth by an elaborate design of npplinued brown velvet, stitched on with gold thread. The bodice is short and fitted to the fig ure with a smart, full coat back. An up pllqued design In velvet forma a vest, while along the edge of the Jacket extends a narrow gimp of black Jet. The sleeves are pronouncedly small, and cut In tha regular cont sleeve fashion, with but little fullness at the top. With this smart gown Is worn a bit at a • hat with an oval crown made of alternate white and brown satin braid. Acrosa the front is a drapery of golden brown chiffon and yellow lace with wide loops to broaden the face effect. A single black plume ele vates itself at tho side. In Ironing lace frills on underwear or lawn dresses you c*-o make the lace look almost like new after this fashion: Iron all tbe rest of the garment, then have a clean, very wet rloth at hand, wltn which spat tho lace till It Is pretty damp, then rub It over with a moderately warm Iron. Do the smoothing of the lace rapid./ and leave It quite damp. As soon as you have finished a ruffle or a sleeve, sit down and gently pull tbe lac* out to Us fullest width. ..mnothiiiK and patting every fine stitch at the edge Into shape. When you once get used to it you will not have to spend much time, and It Improves the lace wonder fully to treat It that way. If you Ilka, you can Iron on the Wro.ig tide after pulling, but It looks better without. It you do it properly. Secretary Herbert has requested from Con. gress an appropriation of 150,000 to enable the Navy Department to test methods of throwing high explosives from guns on board Bhlp with ordinary velocities.