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The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, October 17, 1897, Image 25

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85042461/1897-10-17/ed-1/seq-25/

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ALL FOR BRAID
This and Dress Trimming
the Correct Things
SOUTACHE IS IN THE LEAD
DUE TO THE POPULARITY OF THE
RUSSIAN BLOUSE
Jet Garnitures Without Limit—The
Season's Designs in Buckles.
Corduroy and Velveteen
NEW YORK, Oct. 11.—The coming of
the Russian blouse has made braidsand
dress trimmings dual queens of fash
ion's realm. They have everything their
way, and they are sufficiently charming
to-make it all quite excusable. It has
indeed beet* a very long time since there
have been such stylish braid effects.
While there is no restriction so far as
color is concerned, by general consent
black seems to be the most frequently
worn. It i 9 quiet and always possesses
a certain elegance that no other color
that ever graced a woman can equal.
That Is probably why It is the most
fashionable and leads all else, although
brown and navy blue as well as green
are used. Hercules braid is always
atylish in widths of from one to three
Inches or narrower. This braid is hand
some and attractive whether placed in
straight or cutved rows upon whatever
It Is Intended to ornament.
1 Loop-edge braid Is among the novel
ties for this season, and comes In all
colors as well as black. Sometimes one
edge and sometimes both have the loops,
according to the use to which it i 9 put.
For the bottom of skirts, only the upper
edge has the loop, while for other pur
poses the double edge is preferred. This
braid Is used in straight rows and scrolls
and lends itself admirably to either.
Bteel andplaid effectsare also seen. But
perhaps soutache braid is the trimming
of the season par excellence. It is used
for the Russian blouse, particularly, and
for skirts where more than one width
of braid Is wanted. It comes in ail plain
colors, a 9 well a 9 steel and silver gray
and brown and gold combinations.
Tubular brald9 come ln an endless
variety of widths and colorings., and. are
put on either plain or formed into pat
terns like the flat sort. They lend them
selves very readily to the more compli
cated designs which are 90 fashionable
Just now, andi are found also in steel
effects and different combinations, al
though plain black Is In first place.
Titian braids are also seen both alone
and combined with other braids, and
braid, covered buttons are occasionally
used In connection with these trim
mings. But of whatever kind, braids of
some variety are a necessity for tailor
madie and plain cloth dresses of every
description.
For dresses of a more elaborate kind,
yokes, bands and revers are simply cov
ered with spangles, beads, gold, cord,
silk embroidery, and whatont. Some
of the jeweled effects for evening and.
bridal toilettes are exceptionally lovely,
especially white pearl. The Russian
blouse front Is quite the newest thing In
this line. It is made of net, thickly em
broidered wilh beads. Narrow bands
to match the bead and silk embroidered
effects decorate the plain material of
which the rest of the blouse is formed).
Jet will be seen on many of the fine
costumes, and. in many different forms.
Bo'.eroes, yokes, Muscovite fronts, vests,
revers and panels for the sides or fron.t
of dresses are al! made of jet, both on
black and colored foundation. Jet gar
nitures ar.d bands on mousseline or net
seem to be limitless, and will be used as
accessories for costumes of almost any
material or shade. Black trimmings are
distinctly a feature of the season, both
This little mantle has the distinct charm of originaltity. It is ar
ranged with very full wing-shaped sleeves and a tight-fitting undervest of
aeal, drawn close to the figure, under a jeweled belt. Turning back from
this vest on either side there are wide revers of Russian saole, ending just be
low the waist in a handsome bunch of tails. The high collar is very fully
pleated according to the latest fashion, and the garment is daintily lined
throughout with a beautiful pink and gold brocade.
in velvet bar.ds, fur, braid and Jet, and
will be used, for coiored dresses as much
as for black Itself. Some of the Jet
trimmings arc relieved by a touch of
steel, which adds materially to the ef
fect.
Theoew buckles are almost too pretty
to wear, and the assortment of designs
is bewildering. Never before has so
much time and thought been bestowed
upon these small,'but necessary, articles.
They come in Jet, steel, gilt, enamel, and
many of them are richly and beautifully
jeweled. Some of the more expensive
ones are in medallion form, ar.<i these
are especially intended to be worn with
the plaid silk blouses so much in favor
this fall. Buckles are used for decora
tive purposes on rosettes andi bows, as
well as for their more legitimate use on
belts. All of the hondsomest sashes
and foldied belts are finished with
.buckles, a large one being worn on the
front ar.rj a smaller one for the narrower
portion at the back.
Belts as well as buckles have taken a
new lease of life and no fashionable
wardrobe may be said to be complete
without several, different styles being
required for different occasions. For
dess wear, sliver, French giit and Rus
sian enamel, all thickly studded with
jewels, are the correct thing. Some of
the o'xydized silver ones set with emer
alds and amethysts are very chaste and
beautiful and have the advantage of
harmonizing with most colors. A nov
elty is formed of miniatures of lovely
faces rimmed ln gilt, with tiny gilt
clasps set with turquoises between. For
street wear the leather belt retains its
place, and the buckles for these are of
steel, silver, gilt or leather covert'd l . » hil'e
a novelty shows fur heads for fasten
ings. Some of the newest leather belts
r.Uve the buckle' and strap narrower and
on top of the belt proper, which is in
many respects an improvement.
Another old friend has returned to
popular favor this year, and that Is cor
duroy. This material has much to rec
ommend it, as the finer qualities are very
durable and do not muss easily, shed the
dust and rain, and have the further ad
vantage of always looking dressy. Both
for jackets and extra skirts it will be
largely worn this fall, while coats and
skirts, to be worn with the silk blouse,
are particularly desirable possessions
for any one who requires a number of
street dresses. Grey, cedar, brown and
heliotrope are the colors best liked in
this fabric.
Plain velveteens will also be used for
a variety of purposes this season, some
of the lighter colors being especially in
favor. For tea gowns this material is
quite well liked, as it hangs admirably
and wears well. For evening wear a well
chosen velveteen has almost the effect
of the more costly velvet and will see
twice the service without showing ii!
effects. Among the shades for evening
are cerise, hyacinth, orange and tur
quoise blue, while for street wear there
are all shades of purple, blue and green,
all of which make nice street gowns,
either singly or in combination with
cloth.
If one color stands out above another
this season, I think we must say it is
brown. Rather the light than the dark
shades are chosen, andi combinations of
the different shades, as well as com
bined with other colors are very popu
lar. Brown and black, too, bids fair to
be a particularly well liked mixture,
black braids and garnitures of all kinds
being chosen to trim the medium and
light browns. In fact, it may be said,
that balck trimmings on rather light
colored, goods are distinctly more fash
ionable than any other color combina
tions.
COLLEGE WOMEN AS WIVES
What an Unmarried Woman Said to
a Class of Misses
The following extracts are from ar
address made ty Miss Clara BostwicK.
a teacher at the Elms school in Spring-
Held, Mass..:
"What is the college woman's proba
bility of happiness in marriage com
pared with that of her less highly edu
cated sister? She chooses her husband
later. She- is more developed; she know-.-
better what she is going to be ; she
stands a better chance of not selecting a
life companion whose tastes and her?
will prove helplessly antagonistic. And
LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING. OCTOBER 17, 1897
this is of especial Importance in Amer
ica, where girls and boys are thrown
so freely together; where they marry
when and whom they wish, and where
the parents in many case* apparently
have little else to do with the matter
than to pay the bills ar.d try to shield
the young husband and wife from the
consequences of their folly. The man
whom a girl would, have married when
she entered, college is probably not the
man whom she would marry when she
is graduated from college. This may
result in the breaking of some early
engagement, but an engagement that
can be broken would better be broken.
The college-bred woman is also less
likely to marry from ennui. Even if
she is unfortunatae enough to have no
definite work, after she leaves- college
she has resources within herself which
can not only prevent life from becoming
a bore, but which can make it rich and
satisfying. Neither will she be likely
to- sell herself for the sake of a home
She Is better equipped to support her
self, If necessary, and she has probably
lost many silly ideus she may have
had about the unladylikeness of honest,
bread-winning work.
"Finally, when she has been won. she
stands a much better chance of keep
ing her husband's love and respect, be
cause she stands a better chance of in
teresting him.
" 'Men don't stay in their homes unless
they find their homes entertaining,' said
a married woman of wide experience in
the world, in talking about the educa
tion of her daughter. 'I tell my daugh
ter that if she is ever to marry she needs
to know something for two reasons;
first, to hold her husband's Interest;
and, second, to have within herself re
sources, that will make her happiness,
to a certain extent, Independent of him;
in which case he will be much more like
ly to stay in love with her.'
"The statistics in regard to the mar
riage of college women will not be com
plete until we have also the. statistics in
regard to their divorce. The statement
has been made, whether truly or not,
thai as yet no Vast<ar graduate has. been j
' divorced. Ot courte, all college women j
are not interesting, any more than ate
j all college men; but the four years'com- j
i panionfhip with 'noble thoughts' ought j
to make one at least less stupid.
"Mate the educated woman with the .
educated man and you have a probabil- |
j ity that they will continue to interest j
leach other; that there will be intellec- |
|tual companionship between them;
and that each will have sufficient re
spect for the other's mental ability and
moral sanity to make possible a govern
ment of the home and the children not
by 'managing' each other, keeping clear
of a pandering to each other's foibles
and prejudices, but by frank and fear
less discussion as to what is reasonable
and right. This is not the condition of
affairs ln most homes.
"The women of the higher education
' bring to motherhood, too, a better prep-
I aratlon than do those of smaller oppor
j tunlties. The reasons for this are both
I physical and mental. They are, as a
j rule, gilder, physically mature; and. the
opinion Is held by pome physicians that,
i for the sake of the physical perfectlonof
' the race, no woman should marry until
she is 25. They have a wider knowledge
of physiological and psychological laws
—or they have the ability to acquire it —
which must bring forth benc-flcent fruit
in the rearing of their children. They
knovv more profoundly the responsibil
ities of motherhood; and their realiza
tion of the importance of details in the
training of a child disposes them to look
upon what might seem drudgery to oth
er women, as glorified, educational op
portunity."—Boston Advertiser.
Perfectly Competent to Travel
He is a son to be proud of. and she a
haciawome old lady with much self-re
liance. After weeks of arrangement
ar.d discussion she was to visit a daugh
ter in another Btate, making the- trip
alone. The son had protested against
the venture as more than she should
undertake, but his solicitude met with
rather a chilly reception.
"Don't treat me as though I were a
child." objected the old lady. "I trav
eled before you Were born, and have
A HIGHLY ARTISTIC CREATION
| more cccifldenee in myself than I would
have in any one you might serxi along,
:If not permitted to look after myself I
I wouldi prefer to remain at home. I'll
'not go about creating the Impression
i that I require a giiarcaian."
j This left no room for argument, and
| after giving her careful instructions as
Ito how she must proceed from one eai
lof the route to the other, the son said:
j "Now here Is your transportation. The
! conductor will tear off what is neces
sary, andi just as soon as you reach
j sister's put the mileage that is left right
into this envelope and. mail it tome. I
want to use- it as soon as it is avail
able."
The mother demurred at such e-xplicit
instructions. She knew just what was
to be dcf-ie and. she would attend to it
without the aid of written forms or a
diagram. She mace the Journey, her
safe arrival being reported by the
claugter. For two weeks the son waited
patiently for what was left of that mile
age book and then wrote- about It.
"I told you," came the answer, "that
I learned to travel long before you did.
It is well that such Is the case. On the
train I met one of the most entertaining
and helpful men I ever knew. He was
of great assistance to me, and. when he
saw my transportation he told me as
gently as possible that It would be
worth nothing to you after I had used
a portion of it. But be Is connected
with the company and would give me
$5 for it. Of course I thanked him
heartily and accepted his generous of
fer. You should know what you are
about hereafter, especially when you
undertake to advise those older than
yourself."
The good son simply sat down and' In
dulged in mental profanity. He was
out $10, with no chance for getting even.
—Detroit Free Press.
The Parisian Way
A nice point has been raised ln Paris
—should- larities cycle w hen in mourning?
Does rotating in the fresh air not alle
viate grief too quickly, and does it be
come- a woman clad In the sober livery f
of woe to whirl gaily along beneath the
acacias? The conclusion arrived at Is
curious and. exquisitely Parisian. You
may cycle as much as you please so long
as you paint your machine-black! Then
perhaps your grief may lighten and the
enamel may wear off your machine si
multaneously, and the effect of the half
worn enamel and' the threadbare grief
bo equally suggestive of that too quick
forgetting that is one of the subtlest
tragedies of the comedy we call life.—
St. James' Gazette.
Woman'a Way
"They have appointed a woman to
clean the streets in Chicago."
"I hope she won't follow the example
of my wife."
"Why skj?"
"Because if she does she'll take every
thing out of one street into another be
fore she commences to sweep."—Cleve
land Plain Dealer.
Virginia Woman a Common Scold
Richmond, Va.—ln the police court to
day Mrs. M. J. Ham, a well-known and
pretty lady of this- city, was placed
under a bond) of $300 to keep the peace
for being a common scold. This la the
first time such a Judgment has been ren
dered in this part of the state for more
than a quarter of a century, possibly.—
Washington Post.
Two frills of fur just overlap each other and form the body ef this
stylish new collarette. Another frill forms the collar, and a bow of emerald
green velvet, drawn through a diamond slide, heading a jabot of cream
lace, gives the finishing touch.
SEVEN OYSTER DISHES
Handy Recipes for Chafing Dish and
Informal Supper Parties
To prepare a very simple and delicious
oyster stew, put a pint of oysters, with
their liquor, in the hot water pan of a
chafing dish. At the first sign of boil
ing pour them into a bowl, and quickly
bring to a boll a pint of sweet milk.
Add the oysters, butter, pepper and salt,
and serve at once while the-oysters are
plump.
Creamed) oysters are delicious. This
calls for one quart of oysters, one pint
of cream, a small slice of onion, a table
spoonful of flour, salt, pepper to taste,
and a bit of mace. Mix the flour with
a little cold milk or cream, and stir grad
ually into the boiling cream. Let the
oysters come to a boil in their own
liquor; then drain off all the liquor and
turn the oysters into the. cream. Skim
out the mace and onions and serve.
To three dozen small-sized oysters for
saute allow two tablespoonfuls of but
ter, four tablespoonfuls of fine cracker
crumbs, salt and pepper to taste. Drain
the oysters as dry as possible, season
with pepper and salt and roll in the
crumbs. Melt the butter in a chafing
dish or pan, and when It is very hot put
in enough of the oysters to cover the
bottom of the receptacle. Fry- crisp and
brown, being careful not to scorch. This
is to be served with a dash of tabasro
sauce or thin slicesoflemon on hot, crisp
toast.
A nice supper dish, called oyster toast,
Is made thus; For each person allow six
oysters,w hich must be minced quite fine.
Beat together and heat a teaspoonful
of butter, a little pepper, salt and nut
meg. When hot add the oysters, the
beaten yolks of an egg and two table
spoonfuls of rich cream. Stir, and when
the egg is set pour over buttered toast.
For frying one requires the largestand
plumpest oysters. Thesj should, be sim
mered a few minutes in their own liquor,
then laid on a cloth to drain. Bread and
flour them, roll In egg and bread crumbs
and put them in boiling fat. Fry until
crisp and of a delicate brown color, drain
on paper and garnish with parsley
cress or lemon.
To make good oyster fritters stir into
two well-beaten eggs one and one-half
cups of sweet mi'Jk and' aoTd Tour to
form a thin batter. Add this to a full
pint of oysters, chopped fine, and drop
the mixture by the spoonful into boil
ing lard. Fry a delicate brown, drain,
garnish and serve hot.
Oysters baked, in a loaf of bread are a
celebrated Baltimore dish. A long thin
loaf may be baked for the purpose or
a stale Vienna loaf purchased. From
the- top cut a deep slice and scrape out
the soft part, leaving a wall around.
Season your oysters with salt, pepper
and tomato catsup; fill the "box" and
put plenty of butter on the top before
replacing the slice of crust. Put the
filled loaf in a biscuit tin, pour over It
two spoonfuls of the oyster liquor and
MINK, LACE AND VELVET
put on a grate ln a brisk oven. Bake
from twenty minutes to a half hour,
pouring oyster liquor over the loaf from
time- to time. Serve very hot. If pre
ferred' chopped celery may be used In
stead of catsup.—Chicago Inter-Ocean.
Where It Would Have Been Grand
A week ago a major of the Victoria
guards died, and was given a military
burial. The regiment Is a crack one and
we went to see the procession. When
the mournful pageant wasover we stood
thinking of the solemn scene—those sad
faced men, the reversed arms, slow
tread, sad mu9ic and touching sight of
flag-draped coffin and unused helmet-
Some one touched my elbow and said:
"Was the dead glntleman anythln' to
ye, ma'am?"
"No," said I, smiling ln spite of my
self.
"Ye looked so sorry, I was full sure he
was somethin' to ye," she continued,
disappointedly.
"He was a human being and a brave
soldier; that should be something to all
of us."
"Yls, yis, to be sure. I do be feelim"
that way meself this marnln'. But
wouldn't it be grand, ma'am, mournln'
for a man like that, supposin' he was
somethin' to ye?"— Dover State Sentinel.
The beautiful girl came into the room
and pulled her chair so close up to her
father's big armchair that he looked up
from his newspaper to see what was tha
matter.
"Mr. Wilkin9 likes you, father," she
said, as soon as she saw that she had his
attention.
"Likes me!" he exclaimed.
"Yes; he thinks a great deal of you."
"Well, I have been under the Impres
sion for some time that he liked someone
here," remarked the old gentleman, "but
I've never seen any indications that I
was the one."
"Well, you will the very next time you
see Mr. Wilklns," said the beautiful girl,
with conviction. *
"What's he going to do?" demanded
the old gentleman.
"He's going to ask you if you will con
sent to be his father-in-law," explained
the beautiful girl.—Chicago Post.
Copying Elizabethan Tapestry
The textile exhibition at Dublin,
among other excellent articles, Is to. ba
congratulated on the revival of Eliza
bethan tapestry. Some very successful
examples are three chair seats worked)
on linen, copied from a bedspread exe
cuted over 200 years ago by a Duchessof
i Kingston. Miss Edith Eyre of Eyre
court castle is teaching this class of.
work to the poor of the neighborhood*
They seem to have a peculiar facility
for it. for all the specimens shown were
really well executed and the colors most
artistic. Evidently Irishwomen! are
bono embroideresses as well as lace-
makers; they reprod.uce the finest Ve
netian point to perfection, and. there
was a very goodly show on all sides ln
Erin's fair capital. The royal visit hae
given an impetus to so much and' its in
fluence will be largely felt in promoting
Irish home arts under Lady Cadogao'el
kindly care.
"Madam, behold- a scholar and a gen
tle-man. In the classics I always car
ried off the honors of my class. 11l
Caesar —"
"Are you familiar with Caesar?"
"Intimately, ma'am."
"Then if you will cross the Rubicon
Into the backyard you will find the saw
lying by the woodpile."
"Madam, my Caesar is a revised ver
sion. I give a new and improved read
ing of the familiar text. When I reach
that epigrammatic passage 'I came, I
saw, I conquered,' I invariably omit the
'saw.' Good-day, ma'am." —Cleveland
Plain Dealer.
Plenty of North Pole Game
"Did you get anything?" asked Farm
er Corntas-sel's wife, as he returned
from his hunting trip.
"Nothin' worth speakin' of."
"You surely didn't come home empty
handied?"
"No, but it's ne-xt thing to It. I
haven't anything but a couple more car
rier pigeons with messages from the
North pole tied to 'em."—WashineTto»
Star.
How She Broke the Ice
Expurgated Classics
25

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