The herald. [microfilm reel], February 13, 1898, Page 16, Image 16

About The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
16
DAME FASHION'S FAN DISPLAYS THE REIGNING TRIUMVIRATE IN THE MODISH WORLD
ENORMOUS REVERS ON
SWELL SPRING
COATS
NEW YORK, Feb. ".—(Special Corre
spondence to The Herald.) The black
taffeta craze is upon us. Our grand
mothers considered a beautiful black
taffeta an absolute necessity, a gown
no woman with any pretensions to style
could afford to be without. Its glitter,
its rustle and its lightness were so ob
viously in its favor that it was impos
sible to resist its seductions. And now
the IS9B woman will rustle and glitter
also.
Black taffeta skirts are made up by
dressmakers and the large stores and
are all heruffled. Some are lined with
colored gros grain, others with perca
line, but the daintiest of all are unlined,
depending on the quality of the silk for
the firmness needed. A six-inch hem
stiffened with gauze suffices to hold out
the hem. The trimming consists of ruf
fles in clusters, ruffles outlining a round
apron and reaching nearly to the belt
in the back, or ruffles follow ing the front
Beams from the belt, turning towards
the back at the lower edge and contin
uing around the skirt. Every ruffle is
finished with a narrow hem and many
have narrow" Chantilly lace, or No. 2
black velvet ribbon, or a gimp of a single
row of Jet spangles, or a tiny passe
menterie of silk soutache. Many nf
these flounces are much wider at the
back than in front and all on the bias
of the silk.
Waists for these prowns are nn the
blouse order, slightly polnti d or with
• flat basque. Cross tucks and ruffles
or lengthwise tucks, rows of lace lnser-1
tion, white silk and lace yokes, lace I
ruffled batiste vest fronts, and jetted i
mousseline yokes, are trimming for
these waists. Rows of narrow black:
velvet are also used, alternating with
cross tucks. These bodices display the
fancy for white yokes and fronts, which
Is one of the must conspicuous features
of the new season's styles.
The pretty girl in the center of Dame
Fashion's fan this week wears one of
these gowns sketched by our artist at a
leading dry goods house. The unlined
ikirt ruffled to the waist bad each ruffle
edged with narrow black velvet ribbon.
This was repeated at the waist, and a
how of the same ribbon set on the left
Bide matched the waistband. The white
DOMESTIC SCIENCE
Absorbent gauze and paper muslin
make good soft, dishtowels. Inexpen
sive bath mats of Turkish toweling can
be found as low as 3f> cents.
Old gloves protect the hands in doing
the dirty work of the house, but rubber
gloves cannot be specially recommend
ed, as they make the hands sensitive.
I know a child who has slept two years
very comfortably in a hammock in a
house where the Hour space is crowded.
The hammock is made of heavy sailcloth
and pulled up out of the way during
the daytime.
Don't be afraid to Blight a little if
temporarily without a maid. Sweeping'
is heavy work, and a carpet sweeper will
• lighten the work greatly. But the car
pet sweeper will not do good work if it is
not kept clean, it may need oiling oc
casionally.
One woman living in the country where
there is not running water on every floor
has seven or eight large demijohns which
she keeps filled. These are better than
pitchers, ln that the dust cannot collect
in them. Keep a broom, n whiskbroom
and dusters on each floor of the house to
save steps.
One way to r.tuff eggs is to boil them
hard, cut them in halves, remove the
yolks. Pound these with butter, salt,
and a little anchovy paste. Refill the
whites with the mixture, putting each
half on n square of dry toast. Servo
with a white eauce poured around each,
with a dust of Parmesan cheese over it.
People living in small towns have an
advantage over city people, for elec
tricity is less expensive. It can be ap
plied to sad irons, chafing dishes, coffee
pots, and there are the plates to which
the electricity is applied, and cooking
can be done directly upon thorn or ket
satin yoke was veiled with lace. These
skirts, we regret to say, are all longer
in the back than in front and set out
well. This sweep outward is obtained
by the wearing of a long bustle, or by a
silk petticoat heavily flounced up the
back breadths, ln some cases these
breadths arc supported by reeds run in
casings, thus forming a true tournure,
such as was worn twenty years ago.
The fancy for yokes of white mous
seline is shown on the third and last
figure on fashion's fan. This spring
sown is of light weight, blue-gray cloth.
The yoke is outlined by black velvet
ribbon. The lace so artistically applied
is one of the new makes of Valenciennes.
EARLY SPRING CLOTH GOWNS
Black cloth costumes are considered
very elegant. If you care for an es
pecially becoming one, make it as fol
lows: Trim the skirt with quarter-inch
tucks nearly to the hips. The spaces
between these tuck" may be from two to
three inches. The blouse must fit snugly
—drawn down Into the steel spangled
belt. The top is low-cut over a yoke
Of white puplin er satin, covered with a
yoke of jet and steel spangles. The
beads are on the- collar band, and the
belt fastens with a steel buckle. Three
of th?se bands are down the front, edged
with a tiny puffing uf black mousseline.
The small sleeves have epaulettes. A
brilliant velvet collar may be worn in
place of the white one if more eolur is de
sired.
Here is an exquisite costume in the
soft grey we have learned to love. It is
in the new material woven to represent
tucks, and is a cloth so fine and
light that it is pleasant to think of, and
will be to wear. The tucks run length
wise of the skirt, which has no other
trimming. The simple blouse waist is 1
LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY 13. 1898
THE ADVANCED SPRING GIRL OF 1898 WILL WEAR A FLOUNCED BLACK TAFFETA
GOWN AND A POMPADOUR HAT TRIMMED WITH FLOWERS AND BLACK VEL
VET. AS WILL BE SEEN IN THE STYLISH FIGURE IN THE CENTER PANEL
A CHILD'S DANCING PARTY
drawn into a palp green bias silk
with waist band. The top is cut
.nit back and front over a yoke or
green silk in tiny gathered turks. The
sleeves are out In the new style, with
but one seam, nnd that on the Inside of
the arms. The shaping over the elbow
is accomplished by three or four gathers,
or rather pleats, taken Just in the bend
l the arm. The puff is very small, and
the tucks run round the arm. Those
on the blouse waist run lengthwise to
match those on thy skirt. The dainty
elegance of this skirt cannot be ade
quately described.
A SPRING COAT
The coat we illustrate is a Paris model,
and is an example of the Incoming style
in large revere. It is of putty-colored
cloth, anil the revets are faced With
white moire;
VELVET RIBBON TniMMIN'G
Small sleeves of separate taffeta waists
ate covered with cross rows of No. 5 vel
vet ribbon. At the top is a small square
and stiffened epaulette edged with
three rows of the ribbon. The bloused
waist has a similar bayadere effect, and
a tiny yoke of white silk covered with
heavy lace or appliques of lace figures.
The collar and belt will be of deep pink,
cherry, turquoise, nr emerald green vel
vet with a buckle nf steel set With
colored Jeweft to match the velvet. Rows
of velvet ribbon grndunted in widths
trim many of the new skirts. Black net
skirts, ribbon trimmed, are worn over
skirts of plaid silk, and very odd they
| look.
i • 1 ■—: —
Appropriately
Mr. Belllnghatn—Whai "is your Current
Events elilli studying now. my dear?
Mrs. li' illlngham—Electricity.— Detroit
Free Press.
There is nothing that can equal a wo
man's scorn—especially if you Btep on it
In a crowded car.—Chicago News.
YOKES OF WHITE MOUS
SELINE ON SPRING
BODICES
MUST BE POOR OR RICH
Middle Class Housekeeper Asks for
Moderate Price Dwellings
A woman of moderate means who has
heard and read of many philanthropic
plans for the housing of laborers' fami
lies thus laments:
"I hear all this talk about model tene
ments, but why don't they build some
thing model for the middle-class house
keeper? When I hear them talking of
water being heated from the cellar ln
summer, or from a laundry-house In the
center of a block of houses, the laundry
to furnish a comfortable place in winter
or summer for washing and Ironing, I
say to myself: "Why, oh, why, does not
some philanthropist rise to the needs of
the great middle class?" Give the lux
uries to the people of the tenements, by
all means, but don't neglect the people
who need them more and who would
appreciate them so much. The woman
Of the tenements does not feel the need
of keeping her children In clean, starched
clothes in summer, but I must Lteep mine
In pretty, fresh gowns; she does not feel
the need of more than one or two gowns
for her children, and when her washing
Is done In a primitive way she sits out
on her doorstep to give her chlldreoi the
air while she watches them: I do riot—l
must sew. One maid cannot do every
thing, und lr my children are to be kept
in even their plain little summer gowns
I must iron them myself. The kitchen
is hot, and I am tired when I finish,
but there Is a big pile of sewing and
mending to be reduced, while my maid
takes her afternoon off or lakes tho
children to the The whole house
is hot from the kitchen, bue that makes
no difference. Never in the year is hot
water needed so much as in the,summer.
When there Is the dust and the grime of
perspiration to be removed from healthy
little bodies. What a blessing hot water
without fire would be in summer to the
middle-class housewife: Why doesn't
the philanthropist, who says he can
make a fair profit on his money In build
ing model tenements to be rented at
moderate prices, build model houses for
hard-working housekeepers ot the bet
ter class, who do not put coat in their
bathtubs or garbage in their sinks?"
Echo—The only thing that can film-flam
a woman out of the- last word.—Chicago
News.
ties or spiders used. This can be dons
at a less expense than cooking with gas
or coal, and it is absolutely clean and
easy.—New York Times.
A piece of lee will keep some time If
laid on a piece of muslin which is tied
over a bowl tight enough so thilt the Ice
cannot touch the sides or bottom. Then
tie another cloth over the top. The
water from the melting Ice Is below and
does not accelerate .'.he moltlrig as it
would if the ice were standing in it.
A Novel Hen Party
The Boston Traveler tells of a new
kind of hen party that has fount! favorln
that city. It bears no resemblance to
the time-honored idea that tea and
chit-chat, gossip and smart hats, con
stitute the necessary adjuncts to these
particular gatherings. The Interest cen
ters about a real, live hen o»° feathers,
her chicks and her eggs.
The party originated In this fashion:
A young bride and groom took a house In
the suburbs and went to housekeeping.
A mischievous friend called to see them
and discovered on the premises a desert"
ed hennery, which suggested an Idea to
his fertile brain.
He at once communicated his Idea to
other friends, who arranged secretly for
a genuine hen party. On a pleasant day
the Invited guests met at the railway
station and proceeded ln a body to the
new home. Each one carried a live hen,
a chick or a dozen eggs for hatching pur
poses.
The scene which occurred when thirty
six guests arrived with thirty-six in
stallments for the hennery was decided
ly ludicrous. When the little hostess re
covered breath she produced chocolate
cups and tea biscuits and the groom
showed himself a man of resources by
offering a prize for the most laughable
incident connected with the purchase of
the fowls.
One of the rules of this new game is
that the hens must not be sent by ex
press, porter, or other means of convey
ance, but must be delivered by the pur
chaser. It is suggested that these feath
ered donations would prove a great suc
cess ln charitable affairs.