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16 NEW YORK, Feb. 14.—(Special Cor respondence to The Herald.) List to this tale of the new and beautiful in millinery. Besides the novelties lv shapes there ere several Innovations in material. Vegetable silk has been turned to the yrreatest advantage for silky plaits, ready to be converted Into hats or bon nets. They are far less expensive than the satin straws, and are a marked ir. the spring modes. We are not to have dismal colorings the style of plaiting is the same In nil, showing a pointed edge on one side, and recalling the plaits that v.c were all skillful in doing some years ago. in paper, which were made up Into very presentable badkets. But whether these plaits are of vegetable silk or of satin straw, they are Quite a study In color. Turquoise, light pink, bright heliotrope shades are used alone, but more often they are blended with grey, while brown is com bined with pink, blue with red. and grey with green. There arc some that display Opalesque effects, and these are light and charming, and so are the cash merienne plaits. The straws arc of light weight, but tbe vegetable silk is lighter still, and there is a great deal of black and while, and satin and silk are blended with the straw in some ex amples. We arc faithful to pailettes, their reign Is not nt all over, ar.d many of the Dutch bonnet shapes are entirely com posed of sequins overlapping each other, while some of the toques made in black not. worked in bends ami sequins, arc surrounded by wired rings covered with ihe same texture and elaborately em broidered: they aw nil quite different to anything we have had yet. The shapes seem ali the more unique from the use of colored plaits and the quaint shape of many of the crowns, often sur rounded by straw plaltings. Many tartan mixtures assert themselves as a bordering to red crowns. But besides ' straw there Is a great novelty in the ' rainbow cloth, which has a strong tenac- 1 Ity of thread, almost like horsehair, displaying chine effects in various col .'rings, and always kilted. This is em ployed for the soft Tarn O'Shanter towns, set ln hard circular brims, which are covered with the same ma terial. This fabric is made in several varieties of tones, sometimes the groundwork is yellow, sometimes green, mauve, blue and pink: a bunch of feath ers mostly figure at the side. There is a great deal of novelty with regard to hats of the useful kind for country and bicycling wear. We have not quite got away from the boat shapes, but they will not be nearly so much worn as the sailor, though there are some charming hats with high crowns, slightly sunk in at the top. and narrow brims turning up on either side. surrounded by a band of velvet with a quill thrust through one side. There is Japanese chip, which Is exceptionally light: it is to be had in white and many colors, but one of its great successes Is in black, fur It meets a long-felt want for a dull straw suitable for mourning. This is made up In sailor shape, and green sailors are likely to be better worn than any other tint. Modern hats of this class are beautifully lined, the crown with leather, the sides with satin, a soft pad of velvet Inserted in the front, which makes them set firmly and com fortably on the head. Fancy straws of various kinds are being made into sailor hats, the speckled black and white we are accustomed to. but not so much to yellow with violet, to red with green, to brown with black, and other such mixtures, or sometimes red with gold. A great many of these hats are of one plain color under the brim, which is a Incoming treatment, more especially to women who have passed their premiere jeunesse. Eight colored hats with light blue and light pink velvet ribbon round, are likely to be extremely well worn as the season advances, and white Japan ese chips, with either white or colored bands. There will be a long range of | Panama bats, which are delightfully I light, tori, and these have green and other colors introduced under the brim. There is quite a boom in them for cycling pur poses. The French sailor has a broader brim and a slightly higher crown than the Eton, and Is likely to form a potent rival |to the old shape. There is a black Pan ] ama. called the Dakota, which is made up with a red velvet band round, and the Cuban, which is a sailor hat, made in pedal straw in vivid shades of color. The Merldame is another shape, with a somewhat high crown and a narrow brim, in fine straw, with a quill set Ir. the side of a velvet band. The Samoa Is made in v sort of bass, the plait a chessboard one, the material a quarter of an inch wide, being shown In its en- I tlraty In the even plait. Tuscan Strau s | are in favor, even for the broad-brimmed i sailors, and th"' Winterton, the Kina- Istou, the Paddock and the Newmarket i are to be the loading shnprs of the scu llion. Japanese rustic straw is made up ! into high crown both for ladles and gen- I tlemen's hats, some of which, under the i name of Robin Hood, recall the head ' gear of that histories: personage. Clov en crown have uol vrone cut, but the .sunk crowns. Which look as if they had b»en pressed in Uy a saucer, rite newer For the moment white and brown ro.ll -1 way straws hay? beet; ordered by the | retail bouses for the early season, as wed as speckled ant! self-colored one». For iiirls, soli, sstln and silk Tf-.-.i o' Slisntt-r erowr. ;tre lei into .thip and ! straw brims, by all of which we may see that Dame Fashion Is not likely to be I monotonous In 18>S. The halo h".;, v.'lileli hosd* our rtrst column ihie wetk, !.« a coarse butter colored straw, tlirnmprl on th? outside with r row of black velvet ribbon. Tho sa*n.' ribbon ie uced lor strings. The only face trimming is a wreath. i'-;,!!uk on the hair, of salmon-pink rosso. So. % ii an a;ip!t satn Bilk straw, LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY 20, 1898 SPRING STYLES with bunches of white roses nestling In the pleats of the crown. Quills give height ti> the left side. The third hat is a blended white and pink straw, with a high trimming ol large pink silk blossoms. -\ wreath and a bow of velvet are all the trimming re quired by the novel scoop shape fourth in our column, while the last hut not least !s v heliotrope Tarn o' 9banter toque. set far bnck on the head, and beautified by lavender and black plume:; and paste buckle through a Velvet knot in front. Tbe first hat in our second column Is a mixed-brown rough straw, bent into becoming curves. At tho left side, filling in the tilted brim, is o chic bow of orange velvet. A second bat-eared bow of brown velvet surmounts this, and a wreath of shaded green and brown ivy leaves nearly covers the outside of the hat. The second hat Is a shepherdess, a coarse braid of pale yellow, with llowers and ribbon loops for trimming. The third hat. a toque. Is composed entirely of violets. Its great style consists in the finishing touch, being given by a bow of sapphire-blue velvet. The next model Is for country wear, and the last one of varieties of the new Pompadour shapes has violets and green leaves only for trimming. UIUDLES AND BELTS Some of the new metal girdles have a profusion of jewels set in them, and little of the metal can be seen. Heal gems are used in many cases. Gold, silver and oxydlsed metal are the favor ites just now. Peacock feathers have always been considered a "hoodoo," or, in other words, very unlucky, but the hoodoo Is now offset by using in connec tion with the feathers a common bean. This lucky bean takes the place of a small locket, and some are mounted with gold and others are studded with jewels. The belts with peacock decora tions show sometimes tho entire feather, sometimes merely the eye. Suede leather belts Studded with steel are among the novelties. The two belts we illustrate are examples of the velvet belts studded with jewels and the draped satin girdles confined by jeweled slides | und fastened by an enameled buckle—a Marguerite, now favorite of the French women. The dainty blouse we give this week is a luff ta, covered with .1 diamond bal lacc- work of chiffon ruches. LOVE MAKING IN PUBLIC French Brides and Grooms Kiss and Hue; Each Other Freely It Is evident, from her letter to the February Ladles' Home Journal, that Miss Eillian Tlcll finds much io Paris to interest and amuse her. Among oth er things that are rather novel to an American, "one sees, ' she writes, "the comical sight of a French bride and bridegroom, in all the glory of their bridal array—white satin, veil and or- , enge blossoms—driving through the streets in open cabs and hugging und kisrdng eech other with an unctuous freedom which is apt to throe.- a con servative American into a spasm of laughter. Indeed, the frank and candid way that love-making gocp on In public anions the lower classes is no amazing j that at first you think you never In this world will become accustomed to It, but you get accustomed to a groat many strarige sights in Paris. If a kiss explodes with unusual violence in a cab near mine It sometimes scare:', the horse, but It no longer disturbs me in the least. My nervousness over that sort of thing has entirely worn off." OUR ENGLISH SISTER Takes Off Her Coat mid Gees Into Politics The American woman has. practically, no direct voice in the government of the United States—n fact frequently and forcibly presented to'tis by tho female suffrngist. Her English sisters, also ex cluded from the parliamentary fran chise, are, nevertheless, actively Inter ested in polities. The tide of many a British election is turned by the influ ence of the wife or sweetheart or sister of one of the contending candidates. During an American campaign the rival aspirants for office slump their states or districts, while their families are at home, eagerly reading their speeches and hoping and praying that their own particular dear one will be j elected. The wife of a nominee for con- ; ! gross will be raised to the seventh heav- : jen of bliss when her husband is called on I by bis parly to lead it to victory. She i immediately assumes the leadership of local society, and her projects for social ! conquests in Washington form the ab sorbing topic of her conversation. But I she rarely does any work to help her 1 husband upon his path to the Capitol, i On the other hand, consider the pro- I cesses of an English election. When a gentleman decides to stand for a cer ! tain borough or district he starts out ; backed by the personal and political friends who are anxious to see him seated. His wife or sister is pretty sure ito be pressed into service. Metaphorical jly speaking, she takes off her coat and goes in, hammer and tongs, in a coun try distrh t. w hen the nominee is booked ;to speak at a certain town or village, the ! local delegation of worthy burghers and | farmers meets him and his party at the [station. The would-be M. P. is escorted to tlie platform from which ho is to tcdl ibis friends "what evils exist in the gov ernment, and how he will rirrht them it elected." .Meanwhile his wife begins her can vass. Accompanied by Sir Jia-sil Whats hisname, hart., and Captain the Hon. Soandso, the candidate's lady visits the homes of the voters. The buxom house wife welcomes her with genteel courtesy and ushers the company into the parlor. The visitors cannot say too much in praise of the consummate taste shown in the grass-green carpet and the sky blue wall paper. At last the retreat is ] sounded, and this feminine vote winner proceeds to the next house, and the next, until the whole village has beer, duly visited, complimented and made secure , from the opposition, bo far as the vomen i folk are concerned. j The Primrose league, the great Con servative association, has been a most ] formidable political machine In Kngland, and this Is officered and managed by ; women. At the same time it is a grave question with all Americans who have |Witnessed an English election whether they would like to see their own women at such work. Stanley's wife was badly hurt when he was canvassing a district tn South London, and the list of women who have been cut or bruised on the hustings is not a short one. English women do not confine their work to canvassing. They speak for their candidates, and some of them arc among the best political speakers ln the country. Lady Jeune is really elo quent, and the marchioness of Salisbury has been known to "talk for the Tories. ' But times have changed since the latter part of the last century, and kisses are no longer traded for votes, after the fashion of the lovely Oeorgianu, duchess cf Devonshire, when she canvassed Westminster for Fox.—Cincinnati Trib une. WASHINGTON IN THE MINUET The Stately President Danced at the First Inaugural Ball Mrs. Burton Harrison shows, in an ar ticle on "With Washington in the Mm vet," that the "father of his country" was fond of dancing, not giving up the pastime until sometime after he had re tired to private life. Describing the first inaugural ball at New York, in May, : 1789, Mrs. Harrison pictures the sus pense awaiting Washington's selection tof a partner for the minuet, each belle j earnestly hoping that the honor should I come to her. The chief, however, made I his choice without a second's hesitation, and appeared "leading up to the disc 'of shining parquetry a sweet and in j genuous young matron —the bride of a i year, Mrs. Maxwell, born a Van Zandt, i daughter of Jacobus Van Zandt. chalr ! man of the so-called revolutionary j committee of patriots ln New York. | And now, under the gaze of dowagers and belles, envious In spite cf themselves of young Mrs. Maxwell's luck, Washing ton, laying his right hand on his heart, j executes a profound bow to his partner, sbc blushing like a very rose of spring. Mrs. Maxwell, in return, dips low until her satin skirts form a portentous 'cheese;' then, recovering her balance, places her little gloved hand in the ca pacious one of the chief, who, raising it above her head, takes the first steps in the prim but graceful old dance. From iong practice and through the con tinual use of hl3 muscles, the hero's great frame is surprisingly pliant in the repeated bows and changes of pos ture demanded by the minuet. His feet retain something of the arch of youth as he directs them with precision through the figures that allow no devi ation of a dancer's fancy, but must be carried out to the end like a mathemat ical problem in order to insure success. A murmur of aplpause runs around the circle of 'elegant females,' who fol low him rather than his partner, ln the slow windings and steppings of this intricate evolution." THE WORKING GIRL'S CHANCE Domestic Service the Most Comfort able Occupation ' Tho average home holds out a far more comfortable time, a more leisurely life, a healthier existence, and better wages, than dots the office, store or fac tory to an intelligent girl or woman," writes Edward W. Bok ot "The Work ing-Girl's Great Chance," ln the Feb ruary Ladles' Home Journal. "The same time devoted, for example, to the study of shorthand or typewriting. If given to the study of nursing or domestic service, would mean twice the Income to a bright, steady girl. Unfortunately, girls will not see this, and thousands of them who are today struggling through an existence in the outer world could have far more comfortable lives and better wages In excellent homes. How the average girl can deliberately shut her eyes to the opportunity which fairly glares upon her as a good maid, nurse, companion or domestic of any sort, passes average comprehension. There has never been a time when mistresses were readier or more willing to pay good wages for good domestic service —wages compared to which the pittance paid In shops or factories sinks Into In significance. And, on the other hand, the salaries of women In business, as recent statistics plainly show, are grad ually on the decrease because of the Willingness of hundreds of girls to work for a mere pittance. F.very business house has today waiting lists of scores of hundreds of applicants, while hun dreds of homes cry out for Intelligent domestic service." NEVER COUNT YOUR CHANGE Is That the Reason Men Have More Money Than Women P "Never count your change," remarked a shopper to her friend. ")f you do you will always be poor." "What! Not count my change when I receive It over the counter? Why, I might be cheated nine times out of ten." "I did not mean it in that way, ex actly," said the other. "1 mean not to count the change in your pookethook to see how much you have left. And Ido not think you will be cheated by receiv ing wrong change, either, as cashiers and the people who handle public money are required to be very accurate. You can tell at a glance If your return change Is correct. Notice the way ln which a man runs his eye over change without appearing to count It. And a man never knows Just how much change he has. You will see him fishing a quarter out of bis vest pocket, and another out of his trousers pocket, as If he were sure of hav ing money somewhere, although the whole sum may not exceed a dollar." "Men have more money than we have," said the friend. "They can afford to be more lavish." "No, 1 think women go on the principle of penny wise pound foolish. A woman never hesitates over a treat of Ice cream soda or chocolates, and then frets her self and everybody else over car fare, which Is one of the necessities of living. Now, take my plan and don't count you. l ' change. I have set up a bank In a dlsl used belt satchel, where I throw all inj;' uncounted change. When I need car fare' or church money, or change for any pur pose, I go to my grab-bag and takesomi' out without counting It. And when 1 find some small silver and pennies In my" pocketbook on my return from a shopr ping or marketing tour I drop them in uncounted. Why, last winter, Whetf times were so hard, that bag was llk<' the widow's cruse—lt never gave out. j would never forgive any one who woulP count the contents." "But you must have some Idea of who:' amount It holds?" \ "Not the slightest. It Is a Klondike mine to me when I need change. Ob you needn't laugh— I am In dead earnest- Try it and prove the truth of my the ory."—Chicago Times-Herald. i HOUSEHOLD TIDBITS To prevent moths, before putting away shades or rugs, sprinkle with cay enne pepper. To prevent steel brooches or orna ments from getting rusty or dull wr'en not wearing, keep In a box in whterj' ls a little powdered starch. To blacken tan shoes, clean them i ln d rub them over with a strong solution °' washing soda.- When dry give the; 1 * 1 a coat of Ink, then polish with ordl' nai 'y blacking. To clean velvet rub It down wit/ 1 ' olive oil or butter: this will make it new. Instead of using n brush to a fe) 1 hat, a pad of velvet will remove the dus> ( better. A substitute for cream may 'be made by beating the white of an eg|K with a teaspoonful of sugar and a very little water; put it into the cups IJefore the coffee is poured into them. Milk or cream may be kep ' sweet by adding a teaspoonful of bora/ x to a quart of milk or cream. It will be found a most effectual preservative- To remove paint marks /on clothing, when fresh, rub with turpentine or par afin applied with a bit of c.'loth. If they have dried on rub with P mixture of equal parts of turpentine'and pure al cohol and clean with benr-'nc. Save your egg shells (tnd use them to clean bottles, vinegar cruets and car afes. Put the shells awAy in ;l con venient box, and when* ready to wash the bottles crush the /shells up fine, partly fill the bottles /with them, pourj over them hot soapsuff s - shake well and rinse. J A heavy broom sho/uld always be se lected in preference (to a light one for thorough sweeping, i™ s the weight aids in the process. In b/uylng a broom test it by pressing the edyfee against the floor; if the straws bristfo out and bend, the broom Is a poor on/ e . for they should re main In n Arm, so/id mass. To clean trousefs without washing, take a square of ,dry pipeclay, rub well over the garment let It remain on for two hours, then y>rush it al! off. and they; wll! be equal £o new. If any greasy marks be on thf m take a little brown pa per, with a fb>t iron, not too hot, and press on them,, and the grease will dll- j appear.