The herald. [microfilm reel], March 20, 1898, Page 16, Image 16

About The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
16
ADVANCE EAST OF FASHIONS
NEW YORK. March 14.—(Special Corre
spondence to The Herald.) Fortunate aro
the possessors of lace shawls, so long una
vailable, but now fashion's latest whim.
They aro not. however, to be worn ex
clusively as coverings for our shoulders,
but as draped overskirts in the form of
tunics and aprons. Those ln the Chan
tllly SJtyle of lace will be preferred, though
other makes will not be barred. Both
black and white will bo used. When used
for shawl-shaped capes the lace Is lined
with a thin siik. The semi-circular shawls
are the easiest to arrange as capes. Scarfs
will also be used as panellings and for mak
ing stoics for the decoration of princess
gowns and mantles.
Entire dresses of lace and of net em
broidered in spots or ln single llowers will
be worn for smart summer and evening
toilettes. Robes partly shaped out and
made up will probably be the favorites.
These consist of a shaped skirt and lengths
of embroidered piece net for the waist and
sleeves and of edging for trimming. Many
of these robes have a shaped and embroid
ered piece for the bodice also, making the
getting up of ihe toilette a comparatively
simple thing. The embroidery or lace work
on the shaped skirt Is, in nearly all cases,
conlined to the lower half, and a festoon
runs all around the edge. In the piece nets,
technically known as laise, there is a great
variety of styles and designs. Louis XV.
patterns seem to predominate, however,
the true lovers' and floating ribbon being
much used.
Most of the white and tinted lace or
laize is of tbe guipure order, and will be
used for blouse bodices and fronts in ivory,
cream, ficelle and ecru.
The Easter season will see the lace
bertha revived. They are already being
sold, gathered and sewed to a narrow rib
bon, ready for sewing to the top of low
bodices.
Flouncese, edgings and Insertions are
shown in an immense variety. Brussels,
Chantllly, Valenciennes, Venetian. G<moa
and Flanders points, Bruges, Duchesse,
Irish crochet and the Renaissance and
Luxeuil braid laces. The creamy tints. It
must be: remembered, are preferred both in
band-mado and imitation lace.
SPRING COATS AND CAPES
Capes seem to be the favorites this year
and these range from the collarettes, such
as the model published two weeks ago, to
tho long cape which falls well over the
hips. The flaring collar is used on both.
Linings are conspicuous In color; for in
stance, black cheviot capes have linings
of checked black and yellow, white and
heliotrope, black and red, but the most
popular is black and white.
Bluish ri d, reddish brown and deep green
cloth capes are very handsome, and so
smart looking that they are suitable with
any toilette. "While on the subject of
capes, 1 must not forget to mention that
the "three-decker." so fashionable a few
years ago. has again come to the front,
and bids fair to be one of the most fash
ionable ,modes for .spring wear. In fawn
or French gray it is vay smart, especially
if tbe latter color be braided in black and
silver. Another equally chic cape of this
cut. which I recently saw, was fashioned
of dark-blue box cloth. In an ext remedy
light make, and braided with white silk
military braid In varying widths. Black
and white also combine excellently, ami
make for smartness, A pretty cape shown
to me the other day was of black satin,
lined with while glace silk, each of the
LOS ANGELES HERALD t SUNDAY MORNING. MARCH 20, 1898
three rapes—for this also was a "three
decker"—being edged with a tiny rouleau
of white velvet, upon which were sown
black sequins. The neck was adorned with
a hlgh-talihed collar, faced with the white
velvet, and boasted a cravatte of white
and black striped glace silk, accordion
pleated and clasped with the smartest of
buckles in jet and turquoise. It was quite
nn ideal cape for the wear of n smart young
matron, and if the white lining and rou
leau of velvet be objected to on the score
of economy a dullish shade of heliotrope or
a steely gray, the gray with a big pre
ponderance of black ln Its composition,
could be substituted for it. and the cape
lose little or nothing thereby. Indeed, I
am not sure, but that the gray lining, and
so forth, would not be the more dis
tinguished of the two. though it would not,
of course, possess the note of distinctive
smartness which always seems to be in
separable from black and white, provided
the latter be. as the modistic slang of the
moment has it, "well worn."
Special coats are not quite as much in
evidence as the capes, but will always be
preferred by many. The two moirels we
illustrate are among the prettiest shown.
The coat which at first sight appears to be
braided owes this effect to a stitched baud
ot a light constrastlng cloth. It is an im
portant model and every detail is in the
best style. Tho second garment a
very elegant one, the effect gained by
mingling cloth in contrasting colors. The
revers of the lighter cloth form epaulettes
and are ornamented by three rows of
stitching. The gauntlet cuffs are also of
the light cloth. Both coats have fitted
backs and small sleeves.
The hals presented this week illustrate
the new ideas. The one worn by the fair
maid In the coat with the revers and
epaulettes combined is a lovely color com
bination of white and mauve violets ar.d a
black aigrette. The entirely novel hat on
the other Easter girl is a black chip Mar
quise, lined with white, the crown encir
cled with the palest of I.a France roses,
and a large blackbird, glittering with Jet
spangies. perched on one side. The other
hats explain themselves, while the neck
wear can be constructed by skillful fingers
from the illustration.
A kindly couturiere showed me such a
lovely dancing frock to be worn by a de
butfente of this season. Its material was
ivory silk—the real Japanese silk, which
must not be confounded with Shanghai,
or the ordinary thin makes ot the same
materia'.. It was not possible, however,
to see much of the original stuff, for the
entire gokti—skirt and bodice alike—was
covered with an application of true lovers'
knots embroidered in the palest possible
shade of blue velvet baby ribbon. The
effect thus obtained was charming, ar.d at
a short distance the gown looked like the
most exquisite brocade. This bodice was
pouched, and had' its decolletage set into a
band of the white silk, covered with the
velvet ribbon embroidery. The sleeves
were Georgian in shape, tight-fitting, not
even a soupcou of fulness at the should
ers, and reaching just to the bend' of the
elbow, where they were finished by deep
frills of yellowish lace. A sash of palest
pink chiffon encircled the waist, its long
ends edged with a frill composed of innum
erable lengths ot the pale velvet ribbon
sewn together. A knot of pale pink velvet
roses was fastened in front of the corsage,
and, in pla!e of gloves, black silk mittens
were to be worn. Now, here ls a dress
which the home worker or an ordinary
dressmaker could easily accomplish. Vel
vet baby ribbon is a far from expensive
trimming, and a carefully applied trans
fer pattern and a pair of clever fingers are
all that is needed to transform a plain
ivory silk gown into one which would 1 look
as if it had come straight from that para
dise of dressmakers—Paris. Try It and
see.
The Georgian sleeves of this frock are of
tho fashion of tomorrow and are a safe,
model.
WOMAN AS A DIVER
Mrs. Gordon Dons Submarine Armor
and Goes Under Water
Mrs. Lillie Gordon, the wife of a veteran
submarine diver of South Portland, Ore..d
etermined to try to emulate in some meas
ure her husband's feats, and she astonished
beholders by donning a diving suit and,
unattended, making a trip under the water
of the Oregon coast.
The dive was made by Mrs. Gordon from
the steam wrecking schooner Island Belle,
Captain David Hill, In about thirty feet of
water. Mrs. Gordon wont over the side
and down the ladder with a step as sure
and steady as a veteran diver, and her hus
band, who had been expecting her to give
in at the last moment, looked throtigh the
glass front of the helmet and saw a pleas
ant smile on her face.
In describing her trip Mrs. Gordon said
that she did not feel In the least afraid, as
she knew till tho signals well, but she said
that when she took the drop from the lad
dor the sensation was something almost in
describable. It seemed as if she were
smothering and everything looked black
about her, but in a few moments after
reaching the bottom the air came from
tho pumps regularly and she began to fool
better. The outlit she had to don; includ
ing weights, helmet and shoes, weighed
about 185 pounds, no light load for a woman
to handle who had never had one on be
fore.
N, E. Cordon, her husband, has been In
the diving business for twenty-three year;;.
BUSINESS WOMEN AS WIVES
Training in Practical Affairs Often
Makes Best of Helpmeets
It has frequently been said that women
in business employments do not make as
desirable wives as do their sisters who
have lived only domestic lives, but a recent
observer takes a wholly different view
Of the case. J!e holds that the effect of the
woman in business is not so much to the
advantage of the woman herself as to the
business man. Such a woman has more
respect for him, more regard, more sym
pathy. Site is altogether less likely to vol
untarily impose upon him or involuntarily
to harass and worry him. She has been
these, she knows how it ls herself, and
this personal knowledge and experience
make her more lenient and considerate.
Every woman wage-earner worthy of the
name learns, first, last and all the time,
that success Is attained only by close at
tention and gingle-mindedness. The wo
man who realizes this must also reallzo
that the same rule holds good of the busi
ness man. In a present capacity of daugh
ter and sister, or In a future capacity as
wife, she ls certain to show such a keen
consideration for the business members of
the household us Is undreamed of In the
philosophy of the other kind of woman.
There Is no danger of her husband's be
ing besought to just stop on his way down
low n and attend some specially seductive
"special sale," or to leave his office an
hour or so earlier In order that he may
bring her home a lot of "samples." She has
had practical and personal proof that it ls
through this sort of thing that business
Interests are made to suffer, and she doesn't
propose to let this knowledge play her
false. A woman's appreciation of business
and business ways and means thus Insures
domestic comfort; If conditions warrant
It, it benefits the business man even more
than it benefits the business woman her
self.—Chicago Chronicle.
HOUSEHOLD HINTS
Thin shavings of sugared ginger and can
died orange peelings are a combination
that finds favor as a sandwich filling.
A Jelly sauce that is used for meats or
game requires that the jelly should be melt
ed to the liquid state, and a tablespoonful
of wine added just as it is sent around.
A little pulverized chalk moistened'with
ammonia and applied with a brush will re
move the mark caused by the dripping: of
a faucet in a marble basin. An old tooth
brush is a good thins to use for this pur
pose.
A knitted table padding is being offered
for use under table cloths. It is especial
ly recommended because It does not grow
hard after washing, as does the ordinary
table pad. For a polished table, too, Its
protection Is claimed to be more perfect.—
New York Post.
Two small hints on the word of cooking
authority are that a few grains of salt
sprinkled on coffee before adding the water
bring out and improve the flavor, and that
apples are not so apt to break when the at
tempt to core them is made. If that ls done
before they are peeled.
Pome Interesting statistics recently pub
lished should be emphasized by the mother
of every young man in the land to her son.
They are from the general freight agent of
a large railroad, who says that he will in
the future employ no young man who
smokes cigarettes, and that he Intends to
get rid of all now ln his department who
smoke them. "Eighty-five per cent," he
says, "of the mistakes made in the office
by my 200 clerks are traceable to the
thirty-two who use cigarettes."
A woman who has carefully studied the
effects of light at her dinners says that
unshaded candles in high old-fashioned
candelabra that branch out ln many direc
tions are absolutely the perfection of light
for a table, and are, too, a most becoming
light to the face of the guests gathered
around It. The candelabra should be tall
enough to carry the lights fairly high. The
pretty candle shades so much ln use are
decorative to the furnishings of the table,
but they prevent the most effective and be
coming light.
A recipe for oyster bouillon calls for two
dozen large oysters, drained and chopped
fine. These are put into a double boiler
and heated slowly ln water, to draw out ns
much juice as possible. They are then put
through a flne sieve, and every bit of the
liquor pressed out. This liquor, added to
that already dsained, is put on the fire in
a porcelain saucepan, and into it is beaten
the white of one egg. Let it come to a boil
for about one minute, then remove from
the fire, and after it has stood for three
or four minutes, strain through a piece of
cheesecloth, doubled. Before serving, sea
son and add as much hot milk as you have
oyster'juice. Dry toast cut In squares or
oblongs Is handed around with the bouillon.
Tn se'ecting glass globes for the country
home, a little point of judgment to be con
sidered was brought out by the purchase
recently of some for a suburban friend.
The globes were of exquisite tint and beau
tiful de-sign, and in the shop where they
were shown, all of their beauty was effoet
ively brought out. On being mounted,
however, on the chandelier of the country
house, where the gas was poor in quality
and of low pressure, it was found that the
globes were anything but pretty. They
were so delicate in color as to have only a
sort of soiled tint, and the design was not
a*, all a success. It is obviously very well
to consider at the moment of selection the
future envlronmc-nt of all purchases.
A centerpiece of tall white tulips over a
bed of mignonette gave a spring-like effect
to a dinner of last week. The table was a
round one, than which there is no dinner
board more effective. Silver candlesticks
with white ar.d green shadies contributed to
the vernal effect; the punch served In a
White tulip, resting on a green leaf, carried
it farther on. Tall brass candlesticks, fully
four feet high, with a single candle four
inches in diameter by way of light, aro
used in dining rooms as well as In bed
rooms, for which 'they are originally de
signed. They are capable of sustaining
large silk or paper shades and do duty for
the piano lamp, which, for some reason,
has got into considerable disfavor In tha
most fashionable drawing rooms.
The weight of opinion Is In favor of a
moderate amount of good, pure candy eat
en by children with or soon after their
food, and that it is not only not In the least
detrimental, but Is positively beneficial.
It is the cheap sweets manufactured out
of Injurious compounds that have drawn
upon the practice the odium of medicai
men. Pure sweets contribute valuable
force to the human system and need not be
feared. A Chicago physician claims that
one can scarcely eat too much pure chco
late. If this authority would only go a lit
tle farther and tell us how we are to know
the pure from the impure, a great burden
would be lifted from many mothers, who
are anxious to do right and yet are equally
anxious to contribute to their children's
happiness.
She Wanted Attention
An extremely well-dressed young woman
stood before the "art needlework" counter
of ono of the dry goods shops Tuesday
morning. She was unmistakably taflor
made, and her "scolding locks were pinned
up with the colled snako of turquoises.
Half a dozen times she tried to engage
the attention of the saleswoman, who had
enough customers waiting to have occu
pied live saleswomen. Every time the
saleswoman responded, "In a minute I'll
wait on you," and went placidly on at
tending to tho wants of somebody else. The
well-dressed young woman trembled with
impatience.
"These Washington clerks don't under
stand their business like New York
clerks." she said to her companion. "A
New York clerk can wait on eight poople
at once."
"Il's outrageous having to wait this
way." said the companion, who wore an
owl on her hat.
"It's shameful." said the first young
woman.
"It's perfectly horrid," said the second.
"The people that keep this store ought
to be taught a lesson," said the first young
woman. "I've a great mind to go some
where else. I have."
This terrible threat seemed to move the
saleswoman. She rolled her eyes languidly
toward the young woman.
"What is It you want?" she asked.
"I want one skein of sliver gray filo."
said the well-dressed woman, and every
body heaved a sigh of relief. The store
had been saved tbe loss of a customer. The
filo was 4 cents —Washington Tost.
Women Like "Quo Vadis" Best
It is a curious fact that the majority of
"Quo Vadlß" readers have been women.
Moth librarians and booksellers will tell
you this, and conversation with any ten
men and ten women will assure you of It.
Not nine out of every ten men will have
read the book, while but one of every ten
women will not have done so. It Isn't that
the story ls such a bourgeois character
that the preference of the fair sex for It is
surprising. Rather is It because It Is a
tale of action, of strife and pillage, not to
say torture and carnage. What is there ln
thoso piled-on agonies of flesh and spirit
so detailedly if not graphically portrayed
for chapter after chapter that should ap
peal to the sex that squeals at mention of
a mouse, not to say faints at sight of
blood? As a rule you will find women al
ways buying books of this sort. They
seem to like to read about the very things
which in real life would terrify and disgust
them, and It must be the things themselves
for in the "Quo Vadis" case especially
there is nothing attractive In the treat
ment.—New York Evening Sun.
Society's New Pet in New York
At Mr. Peter Marie's reception, which Is
to be one of the affairs of the season,
French recitations will be given by Miss
Evelyn Harris, the beautiful young south
ern girl who has made such a furor here
this winter. Miss Harris has studied
abroad, where Sarah Bernhardt took the
greatest fancy to her and tried to persuade
her to go on the stage. Like Miss Boar
man, Miss Harris Is a New Orleans belle.
Her mother was one of the most beautiful
women in the south, and the daughter of
Mr. Jonas, the president of the Canal bank
In that city, a financier who stood high ln
the community and whose family enjoyed
one of the best social positions in the south.
Miss Harris, like her mother, has wonder
ful hair, tinged with gold, and black eyes.
She recited at Mrs. Frederick Vanderbllt's
and at Mrs. Schermerhorn's last Saturday,
nnd at a small entertainment given by
Mrs. Oliver H. P. Belmont on Thursday
evening last.—New York World.
Fashions in Tablecloths
Cosmos and pansies are preferred for
cloths intended for round tables. Some
times entire plants are used tto form a
double border, with a plain linen center,
ami a plain strip between.
Tho latest and most fashionable table
cloths have centers of plain linen, to which
deep floral borders extend from the hem.
poppies, lilacs or goldenrod aro favorite
designs.
Floral designs aro preferred, the figures
being larger and more pronounced than
ever, this season. Some damasks show tho
representations of wholo plants or of a
great branch bearing both flowers and foil-
ago.
Laee-trlmmed table linen is more fash
ionable than it was last season. Throe new
laces are used in ornamenting- It. One is a
French lace, resembling heavy linen tor
chon of elaborate patterns; another is a
Russian lace of closo meshes and clumsy
figures.
Table linen that ls not trimmed with lace
should be marked with embroidered Ini
tials. The acepted size for letters on ta
blecloths is two and one-half inches, and
for napkins ono and one-half inches. Tho
initials should be intertwined, but the old
fashioned monogram style is no longer
admissible.
Scotch Girls' Attire
Since the college doors were opened to
women In Scotland tho students have
shown a pardonable patriotism in many
curious ways. The formal college cap has
met new rivals in the Flora Macdonald
bonnet, the Glengarry, the Tarn o' Shanter,
the Cock-ol'-the-walk, the Hobble Burn 3
and the Highland Chieftain. In wearing
apparel there has been a revival of Scotch
friezes, Caledonian shawls and historical
plaids and tartans. Some of the college
clubs and societies have adopted as a uni
form style, made famous by the great
women of Scotch history.
The most general of all fashions, how
ever, is the use of tartans for street and
college costumes. The effect Is described
as most happy, bringing to mind the pic
turesque days of the highlauder of ro
mance.
A Woman aRilway Magnate
There is an electric system of railways
in Tampa which should possess more than
ordinary interest for the women through
out the country, from the fact that It is
practically owned and operated by a wo
man. Her name is Mrs. Chapin, and Jhere
is not a detail of tho operation of the rail
way that she ls not thoroughly familiar
with. The system that she owns ls prac
tically a belt line, and every place of In
terest in Tampa is touched by It. One
route runs from a distance of six miles.
On this particular line observation or
doubles-decked cars arc used, and nearly
everyone takes a seat on the upper deck
.... , — » »h»many
curves the cars are run at a slow rate,
which ls a matter of satisfaction, as It
enables passengers to more thoroughly en-
Joy the beauties of the pine woods, the fas
cinations of the orange groves and tho
glimpses of Tampa bay which are obtulned
through the woods every few minutes.
For some time It ls said Mrs. Chapln has
been endeavoring to extend her Ballast
point route to Fort Tampa, but thus far
difficulties ln connection with the right of
way have prevented her from carrying out
her desires. At Ballast point, near which
she has a flne residence, Mrs. Chapln owns
considerable property, and here she has
erected an artistic pavilion of the Chinese
style of architecture, which ls used by
dancing and pleasure parties from Tampa.
Mrs. Chapln not only owns practically all
the stock of the Tampa street railway sys
tem, but she oversees all the details of Its
operation and herself directs them. She
owns a handsome car, which she calls
"Fair Florida," nnd on this she takes
dally trips all over her line, and from
which she directs the work of the road.
Mrs. Chapln has a wonderful capacity for
business. For those who are curious to
know, It may be stated that Mrs. Chapln'a
husband ls living, but that except tem
porarily, at the present time, It ls stated,
he takes no part In the riming of the road.
—Florida letter to the Philadelphia Public
Ledger.
The Le Gallienne Pose
Most of the women in Le Gallienne'9
first audience the other afternoon took off
their hats to hear him. This shows tho
sort of Interest they were Imbued with—
that of the eye rather than the ear. As a
spectacle l.c Gallienno is a success. One
of tho press notices quoted upon the back
of his program says that he makes a
very striking platform figure, adding that
"bis pale, flushed face Is set off by black
hair, tie and clothes," which ls really quite
expressive and truthful, even if It is a llttlu
mixed. Le Galllenne created something
more than a commotion by entering tho
theater by the front door Instead of by
the entrance reserved for stage folk, it is
a pity that etiquette prevents him from
wearing his hat upon the stage. The ef
fect of his Little Lord Fnuntelroy locks
beneath a conventional black silk tile has
to be seen to be appreciated, and would un
doubtedly double the size of his audiences.
Young ladles will be elated at learning that
Le Galllenne keeps his handkerchief—a
goodly sized piece of linen, too—up his
sleeve. His brother, and what some Irrev
erent Individuals called his "Golden Girl,"
sat in a box on the right, and were only
less Interesting figures than the "new and
powerful personality" (see program)
himself. Between times the brother and
the Golden Girl smiled and threw kisses
at Mr. Bliss Carmen and party, who sat
near the box, and who in themselves did
not detract from the general spectacular
effect. Le Galllenne says "poit." Also
"poltry." His R's, like the ambitious se
lection he reads about pigs, remind one of
Chicago. Two things are needed to make
this latest cockney Importation an all
round success: First, that he should learn
how to read; second, that he should read
something worth hearing.—New York
livening Sun.
Still in Bondage
"Tied to my lady's apron-strings,"
I used to hear them say;
But maidens never wear such things
In our enlightened day.
Yet when I kneel low at her feet
To tie her little shoe,
That very knot, so trig and neat.
Has tied my heart-strings, too.
—Judge.
A column of feminine gossip in an east
ern paper Is headed, "Scraps About
Women." It ought never to lack for mate
rial.