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ADVANCE EAST OF FASHIONS NEW YORK. March 14.—(Special Corre spondence to The Herald.) Fortunate aro the possessors of lace shawls, so long una vailable, but now fashion's latest whim. They aro not. however, to be worn ex clusively as coverings for our shoulders, but as draped overskirts in the form of tunics and aprons. Those ln the Chan tllly SJtyle of lace will be preferred, though other makes will not be barred. Both black and white will bo used. When used for shawl-shaped capes the lace Is lined with a thin siik. The semi-circular shawls are the easiest to arrange as capes. Scarfs will also be used as panellings and for mak ing stoics for the decoration of princess gowns and mantles. Entire dresses of lace and of net em broidered in spots or ln single llowers will be worn for smart summer and evening toilettes. Robes partly shaped out and made up will probably be the favorites. These consist of a shaped skirt and lengths of embroidered piece net for the waist and sleeves and of edging for trimming. Many of these robes have a shaped and embroid ered piece for the bodice also, making the getting up of ihe toilette a comparatively simple thing. The embroidery or lace work on the shaped skirt Is, in nearly all cases, conlined to the lower half, and a festoon runs all around the edge. In the piece nets, technically known as laise, there is a great variety of styles and designs. Louis XV. patterns seem to predominate, however, the true lovers' and floating ribbon being much used. Most of the white and tinted lace or laize is of tbe guipure order, and will be used for blouse bodices and fronts in ivory, cream, ficelle and ecru. The Easter season will see the lace bertha revived. They are already being sold, gathered and sewed to a narrow rib bon, ready for sewing to the top of low bodices. Flouncese, edgings and Insertions are shown in an immense variety. Brussels, Chantllly, Valenciennes, Venetian. G<moa and Flanders points, Bruges, Duchesse, Irish crochet and the Renaissance and Luxeuil braid laces. The creamy tints. It must be: remembered, are preferred both in band-mado and imitation lace. SPRING COATS AND CAPES Capes seem to be the favorites this year and these range from the collarettes, such as the model published two weeks ago, to tho long cape which falls well over the hips. The flaring collar is used on both. Linings are conspicuous In color; for in stance, black cheviot capes have linings of checked black and yellow, white and heliotrope, black and red, but the most popular is black and white. Bluish ri d, reddish brown and deep green cloth capes are very handsome, and so smart looking that they are suitable with any toilette. "While on the subject of capes, 1 must not forget to mention that the "three-decker." so fashionable a few years ago. has again come to the front, and bids fair to be one of the most fash ionable ,modes for .spring wear. In fawn or French gray it is vay smart, especially if tbe latter color be braided in black and silver. Another equally chic cape of this cut. which I recently saw, was fashioned of dark-blue box cloth. In an ext remedy light make, and braided with white silk military braid In varying widths. Black and white also combine excellently, ami make for smartness, A pretty cape shown to me the other day was of black satin, lined with while glace silk, each of the LOS ANGELES HERALD t SUNDAY MORNING. MARCH 20, 1898 three rapes—for this also was a "three decker"—being edged with a tiny rouleau of white velvet, upon which were sown black sequins. The neck was adorned with a hlgh-talihed collar, faced with the white velvet, and boasted a cravatte of white and black striped glace silk, accordion pleated and clasped with the smartest of buckles in jet and turquoise. It was quite nn ideal cape for the wear of n smart young matron, and if the white lining and rou leau of velvet be objected to on the score of economy a dullish shade of heliotrope or a steely gray, the gray with a big pre ponderance of black ln Its composition, could be substituted for it. and the cape lose little or nothing thereby. Indeed, I am not sure, but that the gray lining, and so forth, would not be the more dis tinguished of the two. though it would not, of course, possess the note of distinctive smartness which always seems to be in separable from black and white, provided the latter be. as the modistic slang of the moment has it, "well worn." Special coats are not quite as much in evidence as the capes, but will always be preferred by many. The two moirels we illustrate are among the prettiest shown. The coat which at first sight appears to be braided owes this effect to a stitched baud ot a light constrastlng cloth. It is an im portant model and every detail is in the best style. Tho second garment a very elegant one, the effect gained by mingling cloth in contrasting colors. The revers of the lighter cloth form epaulettes and are ornamented by three rows of stitching. The gauntlet cuffs are also of the light cloth. Both coats have fitted backs and small sleeves. The hals presented this week illustrate the new ideas. The one worn by the fair maid In the coat with the revers and epaulettes combined is a lovely color com bination of white and mauve violets ar.d a black aigrette. The entirely novel hat on the other Easter girl is a black chip Mar quise, lined with white, the crown encir cled with the palest of I.a France roses, and a large blackbird, glittering with Jet spangies. perched on one side. The other hats explain themselves, while the neck wear can be constructed by skillful fingers from the illustration. A kindly couturiere showed me such a lovely dancing frock to be worn by a de butfente of this season. Its material was ivory silk—the real Japanese silk, which must not be confounded with Shanghai, or the ordinary thin makes ot the same materia'.. It was not possible, however, to see much of the original stuff, for the entire gokti—skirt and bodice alike—was covered with an application of true lovers' knots embroidered in the palest possible shade of blue velvet baby ribbon. The effect thus obtained was charming, ar.d at a short distance the gown looked like the most exquisite brocade. This bodice was pouched, and had' its decolletage set into a band of the white silk, covered with the velvet ribbon embroidery. The sleeves were Georgian in shape, tight-fitting, not even a soupcou of fulness at the should ers, and reaching just to the bend' of the elbow, where they were finished by deep frills of yellowish lace. A sash of palest pink chiffon encircled the waist, its long ends edged with a frill composed of innum erable lengths ot the pale velvet ribbon sewn together. A knot of pale pink velvet roses was fastened in front of the corsage, and, in pla!e of gloves, black silk mittens were to be worn. Now, here ls a dress which the home worker or an ordinary dressmaker could easily accomplish. Vel vet baby ribbon is a far from expensive trimming, and a carefully applied trans fer pattern and a pair of clever fingers are all that is needed to transform a plain ivory silk gown into one which would 1 look as if it had come straight from that para dise of dressmakers—Paris. Try It and see. The Georgian sleeves of this frock are of tho fashion of tomorrow and are a safe, model. WOMAN AS A DIVER Mrs. Gordon Dons Submarine Armor and Goes Under Water Mrs. Lillie Gordon, the wife of a veteran submarine diver of South Portland, Ore..d etermined to try to emulate in some meas ure her husband's feats, and she astonished beholders by donning a diving suit and, unattended, making a trip under the water of the Oregon coast. The dive was made by Mrs. Gordon from the steam wrecking schooner Island Belle, Captain David Hill, In about thirty feet of water. Mrs. Gordon wont over the side and down the ladder with a step as sure and steady as a veteran diver, and her hus band, who had been expecting her to give in at the last moment, looked throtigh the glass front of the helmet and saw a pleas ant smile on her face. In describing her trip Mrs. Gordon said that she did not feel In the least afraid, as she knew till tho signals well, but she said that when she took the drop from the lad dor the sensation was something almost in describable. It seemed as if she were smothering and everything looked black about her, but in a few moments after reaching the bottom the air came from tho pumps regularly and she began to fool better. The outlit she had to don; includ ing weights, helmet and shoes, weighed about 185 pounds, no light load for a woman to handle who had never had one on be fore. N, E. Cordon, her husband, has been In the diving business for twenty-three year;;. BUSINESS WOMEN AS WIVES Training in Practical Affairs Often Makes Best of Helpmeets It has frequently been said that women in business employments do not make as desirable wives as do their sisters who have lived only domestic lives, but a recent observer takes a wholly different view Of the case. J!e holds that the effect of the woman in business is not so much to the advantage of the woman herself as to the business man. Such a woman has more respect for him, more regard, more sym pathy. Site is altogether less likely to vol untarily impose upon him or involuntarily to harass and worry him. She has been these, she knows how it ls herself, and this personal knowledge and experience make her more lenient and considerate. Every woman wage-earner worthy of the name learns, first, last and all the time, that success Is attained only by close at tention and gingle-mindedness. The wo man who realizes this must also reallzo that the same rule holds good of the busi ness man. In a present capacity of daugh ter and sister, or In a future capacity as wife, she ls certain to show such a keen consideration for the business members of the household us Is undreamed of In the philosophy of the other kind of woman. There Is no danger of her husband's be ing besought to just stop on his way down low n and attend some specially seductive "special sale," or to leave his office an hour or so earlier In order that he may bring her home a lot of "samples." She has had practical and personal proof that it ls through this sort of thing that business Interests are made to suffer, and she doesn't propose to let this knowledge play her false. A woman's appreciation of business and business ways and means thus Insures domestic comfort; If conditions warrant It, it benefits the business man even more than it benefits the business woman her self.—Chicago Chronicle. HOUSEHOLD HINTS Thin shavings of sugared ginger and can died orange peelings are a combination that finds favor as a sandwich filling. A Jelly sauce that is used for meats or game requires that the jelly should be melt ed to the liquid state, and a tablespoonful of wine added just as it is sent around. A little pulverized chalk moistened'with ammonia and applied with a brush will re move the mark caused by the dripping: of a faucet in a marble basin. An old tooth brush is a good thins to use for this pur pose. A knitted table padding is being offered for use under table cloths. It is especial ly recommended because It does not grow hard after washing, as does the ordinary table pad. For a polished table, too, Its protection Is claimed to be more perfect.— New York Post. Two small hints on the word of cooking authority are that a few grains of salt sprinkled on coffee before adding the water bring out and improve the flavor, and that apples are not so apt to break when the at tempt to core them is made. If that ls done before they are peeled. Pome Interesting statistics recently pub lished should be emphasized by the mother of every young man in the land to her son. They are from the general freight agent of a large railroad, who says that he will in the future employ no young man who smokes cigarettes, and that he Intends to get rid of all now ln his department who smoke them. "Eighty-five per cent," he says, "of the mistakes made in the office by my 200 clerks are traceable to the thirty-two who use cigarettes." A woman who has carefully studied the effects of light at her dinners says that unshaded candles in high old-fashioned candelabra that branch out ln many direc tions are absolutely the perfection of light for a table, and are, too, a most becoming light to the face of the guests gathered around It. The candelabra should be tall enough to carry the lights fairly high. The pretty candle shades so much ln use are decorative to the furnishings of the table, but they prevent the most effective and be coming light. A recipe for oyster bouillon calls for two dozen large oysters, drained and chopped fine. These are put into a double boiler and heated slowly ln water, to draw out ns much juice as possible. They are then put through a flne sieve, and every bit of the liquor pressed out. This liquor, added to that already dsained, is put on the fire in a porcelain saucepan, and into it is beaten the white of one egg. Let it come to a boil for about one minute, then remove from the fire, and after it has stood for three or four minutes, strain through a piece of cheesecloth, doubled. Before serving, sea son and add as much hot milk as you have oyster'juice. Dry toast cut In squares or oblongs Is handed around with the bouillon. Tn se'ecting glass globes for the country home, a little point of judgment to be con sidered was brought out by the purchase recently of some for a suburban friend. The globes were of exquisite tint and beau tiful de-sign, and in the shop where they were shown, all of their beauty was effoet ively brought out. On being mounted, however, on the chandelier of the country house, where the gas was poor in quality and of low pressure, it was found that the globes were anything but pretty. They were so delicate in color as to have only a sort of soiled tint, and the design was not a*, all a success. It is obviously very well to consider at the moment of selection the future envlronmc-nt of all purchases. A centerpiece of tall white tulips over a bed of mignonette gave a spring-like effect to a dinner of last week. The table was a round one, than which there is no dinner board more effective. Silver candlesticks with white ar.d green shadies contributed to the vernal effect; the punch served In a White tulip, resting on a green leaf, carried it farther on. Tall brass candlesticks, fully four feet high, with a single candle four inches in diameter by way of light, aro used in dining rooms as well as In bed rooms, for which 'they are originally de signed. They are capable of sustaining large silk or paper shades and do duty for the piano lamp, which, for some reason, has got into considerable disfavor In tha most fashionable drawing rooms. The weight of opinion Is In favor of a moderate amount of good, pure candy eat en by children with or soon after their food, and that it is not only not In the least detrimental, but Is positively beneficial. It is the cheap sweets manufactured out of Injurious compounds that have drawn upon the practice the odium of medicai men. Pure sweets contribute valuable force to the human system and need not be feared. A Chicago physician claims that one can scarcely eat too much pure chco late. If this authority would only go a lit tle farther and tell us how we are to know the pure from the impure, a great burden would be lifted from many mothers, who are anxious to do right and yet are equally anxious to contribute to their children's happiness. She Wanted Attention An extremely well-dressed young woman stood before the "art needlework" counter of ono of the dry goods shops Tuesday morning. She was unmistakably taflor made, and her "scolding locks were pinned up with the colled snako of turquoises. Half a dozen times she tried to engage the attention of the saleswoman, who had enough customers waiting to have occu pied live saleswomen. Every time the saleswoman responded, "In a minute I'll wait on you," and went placidly on at tending to tho wants of somebody else. The well-dressed young woman trembled with impatience. "These Washington clerks don't under stand their business like New York clerks." she said to her companion. "A New York clerk can wait on eight poople at once." "Il's outrageous having to wait this way." said the companion, who wore an owl on her hat. "It's shameful." said the first young woman. "It's perfectly horrid," said the second. "The people that keep this store ought to be taught a lesson," said the first young woman. "I've a great mind to go some where else. I have." This terrible threat seemed to move the saleswoman. She rolled her eyes languidly toward the young woman. "What is It you want?" she asked. "I want one skein of sliver gray filo." said the well-dressed woman, and every body heaved a sigh of relief. The store had been saved tbe loss of a customer. The filo was 4 cents —Washington Tost. Women Like "Quo Vadis" Best It is a curious fact that the majority of "Quo Vadlß" readers have been women. Moth librarians and booksellers will tell you this, and conversation with any ten men and ten women will assure you of It. Not nine out of every ten men will have read the book, while but one of every ten women will not have done so. It Isn't that the story ls such a bourgeois character that the preference of the fair sex for It is surprising. Rather is It because It Is a tale of action, of strife and pillage, not to say torture and carnage. What is there ln thoso piled-on agonies of flesh and spirit so detailedly if not graphically portrayed for chapter after chapter that should ap peal to the sex that squeals at mention of a mouse, not to say faints at sight of blood? As a rule you will find women al ways buying books of this sort. They seem to like to read about the very things which in real life would terrify and disgust them, and It must be the things themselves for in the "Quo Vadis" case especially there is nothing attractive In the treat ment.—New York Evening Sun. Society's New Pet in New York At Mr. Peter Marie's reception, which Is to be one of the affairs of the season, French recitations will be given by Miss Evelyn Harris, the beautiful young south ern girl who has made such a furor here this winter. Miss Harris has studied abroad, where Sarah Bernhardt took the greatest fancy to her and tried to persuade her to go on the stage. Like Miss Boar man, Miss Harris Is a New Orleans belle. Her mother was one of the most beautiful women in the south, and the daughter of Mr. Jonas, the president of the Canal bank In that city, a financier who stood high ln the community and whose family enjoyed one of the best social positions in the south. Miss Harris, like her mother, has wonder ful hair, tinged with gold, and black eyes. She recited at Mrs. Frederick Vanderbllt's and at Mrs. Schermerhorn's last Saturday, nnd at a small entertainment given by Mrs. Oliver H. P. Belmont on Thursday evening last.—New York World. Fashions in Tablecloths Cosmos and pansies are preferred for cloths intended for round tables. Some times entire plants are used tto form a double border, with a plain linen center, ami a plain strip between. Tho latest and most fashionable table cloths have centers of plain linen, to which deep floral borders extend from the hem. poppies, lilacs or goldenrod aro favorite designs. Floral designs aro preferred, the figures being larger and more pronounced than ever, this season. Some damasks show tho representations of wholo plants or of a great branch bearing both flowers and foil- ago. Laee-trlmmed table linen is more fash ionable than it was last season. Throe new laces are used in ornamenting- It. One is a French lace, resembling heavy linen tor chon of elaborate patterns; another is a Russian lace of closo meshes and clumsy figures. Table linen that ls not trimmed with lace should be marked with embroidered Ini tials. The acepted size for letters on ta blecloths is two and one-half inches, and for napkins ono and one-half inches. Tho initials should be intertwined, but the old fashioned monogram style is no longer admissible. Scotch Girls' Attire Since the college doors were opened to women In Scotland tho students have shown a pardonable patriotism in many curious ways. The formal college cap has met new rivals in the Flora Macdonald bonnet, the Glengarry, the Tarn o' Shanter, the Cock-ol'-the-walk, the Hobble Burn 3 and the Highland Chieftain. In wearing apparel there has been a revival of Scotch friezes, Caledonian shawls and historical plaids and tartans. Some of the college clubs and societies have adopted as a uni form style, made famous by the great women of Scotch history. The most general of all fashions, how ever, is the use of tartans for street and college costumes. The effect Is described as most happy, bringing to mind the pic turesque days of the highlauder of ro mance. A Woman aRilway Magnate There is an electric system of railways in Tampa which should possess more than ordinary interest for the women through out the country, from the fact that It is practically owned and operated by a wo man. Her name is Mrs. Chapin, and Jhere is not a detail of tho operation of the rail way that she ls not thoroughly familiar with. The system that she owns ls prac tically a belt line, and every place of In terest in Tampa is touched by It. One route runs from a distance of six miles. On this particular line observation or doubles-decked cars arc used, and nearly everyone takes a seat on the upper deck .... , — » »h»many curves the cars are run at a slow rate, which ls a matter of satisfaction, as It enables passengers to more thoroughly en- Joy the beauties of the pine woods, the fas cinations of the orange groves and tho glimpses of Tampa bay which are obtulned through the woods every few minutes. For some time It ls said Mrs. Chapln has been endeavoring to extend her Ballast point route to Fort Tampa, but thus far difficulties ln connection with the right of way have prevented her from carrying out her desires. At Ballast point, near which she has a flne residence, Mrs. Chapln owns considerable property, and here she has erected an artistic pavilion of the Chinese style of architecture, which ls used by dancing and pleasure parties from Tampa. Mrs. Chapln not only owns practically all the stock of the Tampa street railway sys tem, but she oversees all the details of Its operation and herself directs them. She owns a handsome car, which she calls "Fair Florida," nnd on this she takes dally trips all over her line, and from which she directs the work of the road. Mrs. Chapln has a wonderful capacity for business. For those who are curious to know, It may be stated that Mrs. Chapln'a husband ls living, but that except tem porarily, at the present time, It ls stated, he takes no part In the riming of the road. —Florida letter to the Philadelphia Public Ledger. The Le Gallienne Pose Most of the women in Le Gallienne'9 first audience the other afternoon took off their hats to hear him. This shows tho sort of Interest they were Imbued with— that of the eye rather than the ear. As a spectacle l.c Gallienno is a success. One of tho press notices quoted upon the back of his program says that he makes a very striking platform figure, adding that "bis pale, flushed face Is set off by black hair, tie and clothes," which ls really quite expressive and truthful, even if It is a llttlu mixed. Le Galllenne created something more than a commotion by entering tho theater by the front door Instead of by the entrance reserved for stage folk, it is a pity that etiquette prevents him from wearing his hat upon the stage. The ef fect of his Little Lord Fnuntelroy locks beneath a conventional black silk tile has to be seen to be appreciated, and would un doubtedly double the size of his audiences. Young ladles will be elated at learning that Le Galllenne keeps his handkerchief—a goodly sized piece of linen, too—up his sleeve. His brother, and what some Irrev erent Individuals called his "Golden Girl," sat in a box on the right, and were only less Interesting figures than the "new and powerful personality" (see program) himself. Between times the brother and the Golden Girl smiled and threw kisses at Mr. Bliss Carmen and party, who sat near the box, and who in themselves did not detract from the general spectacular effect. Le Galllenne says "poit." Also "poltry." His R's, like the ambitious se lection he reads about pigs, remind one of Chicago. Two things are needed to make this latest cockney Importation an all round success: First, that he should learn how to read; second, that he should read something worth hearing.—New York livening Sun. Still in Bondage "Tied to my lady's apron-strings," I used to hear them say; But maidens never wear such things In our enlightened day. Yet when I kneel low at her feet To tie her little shoe, That very knot, so trig and neat. Has tied my heart-strings, too. —Judge. A column of feminine gossip in an east ern paper Is headed, "Scraps About Women." It ought never to lack for mate rial.