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The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900, July 24, 1898, Image 15

Image and text provided by University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85042461/1898-07-24/ed-1/seq-15/

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This chic gown designed by Redf em for yachting is made of navy serge of a
fine quality, epaulettes, cuffs and revers of bodice of white linen; also
two narrow bands which edge the skirt of the same material. '
NEW YOTtTv, July IS —(Special Corospon.
fience to tho lloralil). His woman's right to
be set on a pedestal and worshiped by
man; but man has rights, too, and he in
sists upon tho divinity's recognizing them.
One of man's rights is that the beauty on
the pedestal whom he worships shall Le
well and tastefully dressed, and he is wil
ling to make, all sorts of sacrifices as a
means to this end. So that man Is the
cause of woman's love of finery, a state
ment that no woman dare contradict.
But, whatever tho motive prompting, wom
en must bo well dressed, and bow can they
be unless they are guided by the artists In
costumes who declare what they may or
may not wear. They are very dictato
rial, these fashion artists. They
say the summer girl must wear
muslins whenever the elements are
favorable to this material, and when
the sun hides his face and the heavens
weep or the wind blows chlllily she must
fall back upon the clothes that are mafic
up largely of silk, and upon an Imitation of
satin, that can scarcely be told from the
original. They are made so that the effect
is pretty and the wearer can look well while
defying the rain, a combination that few
rainy day costumes possess. The shades
aro gray and blue pastel. For trimmings
pipings are used.
A very pretty costume seen recently was
of satin i*> a cbestnutty color, with lining
of tartan silk and the flouncing of the
lower part of -trie 1 Skirt set in under a piping
of the same silk. A directoire coat with a
long-tailed basque in the back only, tartan
silk lined, but the square rtvers faced with
modern point. Buttons of throe-cut steel
ran down either side of the coat, and the
full pouched vest was of the point lace
over yellow. The sleeves were small and
tartan silk lined at intervals from wrist to
shoulder, nuilles of the same lace finished
off the wrists.
The hat that went with this grown was of
brown tulle, trimmed with yellow wings,
sequined with black, a cache-peigno of yel
lowish roses and a soui>con of lace.
Another very pretty satin cloth costume
recently seen was of blue pastel piped with
black satin to tho skirt, and lined with
glace of its own color. The coat was very
similar to the one previously described,
made of black satin with cut glass buttons.
The lining was of pale blue, the vest of
tucked whtto chiffon, embroidered with fine
black silk cord, and a big cravat of mingled
tulle and black lace, the hat to be worn
being of drawn chiffon of Duchess of Dev
onshire shape, ornamented with masses of
black and blue feathers.
Dresses and Petticoats for Summer
The sweetest and daintiest thin dresses
are now seen with no decoration but fleecy
little frills of the material. A toilet of the
finest and sheerest white organdie Is fash
ioned with a full blouse, the front and back
tucked to simulate a shallow pointed yoke,
and the fullness' caused* by the. liberated
tucks bloused slightly in front and securely
belted at the back. A close sleeve has a
series of narrow "pinched" frills at the top
and a smaller pair at the wrist. The waist
closes invisibly over the shoulder and under
the arms.
The skirt is gored with scant fullness in
the back, and has a simple frill at the lower
edge. The drop sltlrt, cut by the same pat
tern, and with butterfly bow at the back.
The crush collar buttons at the back, al
though the waist is side-closed, and has two
little pointed tabs folding away from each
side of the front. Worn with this ideal
Ireas of summer thinness Is a leghorn hat
trimmed with grasses thistledown, and
pale green suede gloves add the last touch
tf daintiness.
Petticoats of the finest white cambric, and
of lawn "as white as driven snow," are
rapidly coming back into favor, and if only
for their cool lightness, and the frequency
with which.' they can be washed or cleaned,
they certainly have, for summer wear, much
to recommend- them. They are trimmed
with quiite as great an elaboration of frills,
flounces and furbelows as the skirts of glace
silk and of brocades, although the only
trimming which Is permissible upon them,
of course, is lace of some kind or other. Fins
lace flounces, bordered with drawn open
work, are to be seen upon some of the new
skirts, but as a rule those flounces also are
edged again either with Torchon or Valen
ciennes lace. For the trimming of under
skirts Maltese lace is also being very mucl\
used this season. It Is obtainable In-many
•wonderfully pretty and its excep
tional durability makes it most desirable as
a trimming for garments which must of
necessity be frequently washed.
A wonderfully .pretty ctipe, made in fawn
cloth, with tour fnills, dipping at the back,
proves most becoming to the t figure. The
frills start from a yoke, and it is cut in one
With a high up-standang collar having a
ruffle inside.
A new Parisian mod-el Is tight-fitting at
the buck, with Watteau pleats coming down
between the shoulders, the side scams ap
parently secured to it by six diamond
buckles; it has a very high collar, and is
trimmed with boulliones of the same shad*,
and a large tie of chiffon to match, edged
with ruche?, the sleeves being of the hang
ing bell order.
The Jumping Rope for Reducing Flesh
The glory of having discovered a way of
getting thin and of keeping in good condi
tion when one Is deprived of a usual means
of exercise must rest with the wife of an.
English officer in India. As sometimes
happens after a Long illness and its subse
quent confinement, this lady found herself,
•when able to move about again, almost
twice her normal size. She could not walk,
nor was she able, through nervousness,
either to ride or to enter into outdoor sports.
One day she thought of the skipping rope
of her childhood. After a few weeks' prac
tice she began to gain In health and to de
crease in size. She makes a daily record of
600 skips. As she exercises several times a
day, her record represents the sum total
of her day's work. Her custom has been,
widely followed. Women accustomed to
outdoor exercise and made wretched by
confinement indoors or to a limited area
use the skipping rope. Practiced with pru
dence, no other form of exercise, it is said,
is equal to it in. its beneficial results, or
accomplishes greater wonders in reducing
flesh.—Harper's Bazar.
Fire Escape Parties
Flre escape parties are popular warm
weather diversions in the foreign parts of
town, and the French quarter Is especially
addicted to this aerial form of pleasure.
In full view of the passengers of passing
elevated trains, one complacent family eat 4
supper every warm evening on its airy
iron balcony. The train rounds a curve
an it' passes the house and so goes slowly
enough to permit its passengers to take a
hungry Inventory of monsieur and
madame's repast. Monsieur and madamc
live well. They had cheese, salad and wine
last evening! and sometime they sip coffee
out of glass goblets. A long loaf of French
bread lay on the ledge of the lire escape
last evening, wedged between two flower
pots. Two small children also partook of
the open air repast, one sitting on the win
dow sill and one on his father's knee.—New
Torkj Commercial Advertiser.
All the suitors for a girl's hand in Borneo
are •xpected to be generous in their pres
ents to her. These presents are never re
turned; therefore the wily young lady de
fers as long as possible a positive selection
nf thp hnrmv mnn.
It was in one of the most fashionable of
tho restaurants in tho shopping district,
and at noon in a large, airy room tilled with
elegantly gowned women. Suddenly every
eye was focused on a young woman just en
tering the door. She was a typical New
York girl, with an erect carriage and gown
ed In the latest fashion. Tucked coquettish
ly under her left arm, as if it were a.muff.
she carried a mysterious looking big black
hag. The bog moved. It squirmed.
Everyone stared and then smiled. For out
of the top of the bag a jet black pussy cat
poked its cunning little head. The girl
gazed at it lovingly, stroked its head with
motherly affection and walked across the
room to a table near the window with an
air of nonchalant indifference. The girl put
the bag down upon her lap, half covering it
with her napkin, and proceeded to order her
A Double Ostrich Feather
lunch. Presently she was Joined by a
dainty shirt waist girl in a sailor hat, and
then, to the edification of those near the
table, the following conversation was over
"Did Dewey have his lunch before you
started?" said the girl In the sailor hat.
"Oh, yes," came the reply across the
table. "I fed him before we left the house.
This Is the first time he has been out in his
new bag and, bless his heart, he has be
haved just like a dear."
"But, Irene, how did you get him down
here?" said the sailor hat girl, with a pus-
Bled expression.
"Why, I brought him down on a cable car
Just as nice and comfortably as you please."
The sailor hat girl began laughing. "I
must tell you," she said, "about Eleanor.
You know she lives over on the heights in
Brooklyn. Well, she has a 'tramp' kitten
with a white spot on its breast, and she has
called It Sampson, and is telling everyone It
Is her mascot. Whenever she goes out In
the street she takes that kitten with her,
and, would you believe It, she leads it with
a red, white and blue ribbon. Oh, they do
such things and they say such things in
Brooklyn," laughed the sailor hat girl.
Then the waiter handed the girl with the
mascot tho check. The sailor hat girl
counted out her share of the money and
Dewey left the restaurant as he had enter
ed it. Within the last month this cat fad
has grown with great rapidity. The bag
varies In size, according to the slse of the
kitten. It Is generally made of the finest
French flannel, but Is always black in color.
By means of a black satin drawstring the
bag opens and shuts at the top. The deep
frill which finishes the bag is bound with
black ribbon and forms an effective collar
ette for pussy.' Under no circumstances
must the mascot pussy cat wear a gay-col
ored ribbon tied about its neck. Miss kit
ten must be absolutely black.—New York
Criticism by a Man on the Latest Ap
propriation of Men's Attire
"Nothing in the whole field of woman's
dress distresses me so much," said a man
who is not ordinarily observant of such
matters, "ns the fiat scarf and the shirt
Waists. These large flat ties, hanging
like breast plates from women's necks
and flapping to and fro as they walk, are
the most malignant manifestations of the
tailor-made fad and its consequences that
I have ever seen. The unsultablllty of
stich a necktie to a shirt waist seems to
be lost on them. No man would ever
think of wearing such a scarf with a flan
nel of an outing shirt. Those heavy
things are reserved by men for more for
mal occasions, yet women have taken them
up this year as the articles for regular
summer wear.
My experience has been that the small
er the woman is the larger her scarf Is
likely to bo, and if she happens to have
the sort of a figure which makes the scarf
project forward and remain In that posi
tion, the lnapproprlateness of such neck
wear for women is more apparent than
ever. If women care about the wishes of
men In the matter of dress they ought
to take off those large neckties. Nothing
can excuse them. There are plenty of
substitutes, and even if there were not,
an average man would prefer to see a
woman with nothing but a piece of rib
bon tied about her neck rather than one
of those Iniquitous flat scarfs.
"One point about them is amusing from
the way In which it shows their Indlffer
A pale blue satin ball gown embroidered with turquoise and emerald ~
clothes after they take to them. These
flat scarfs should have their edges hidden
by a waistcoat or in some other way. But
a small matter like that does not inter
fere with the way in which they wear any
thing that has hitherto belonged to mere
man. They wear them just as they
please. That is their rule, and that makes
it correct."—New York Sun.
Test of a Persian Carpet
The test of a true Persian carpet—that
used by the natives themselves—is to drop
a piece of red-hot charcoal upon It, which
leaves a singed round spot. If tho carpet
is one of the best quality tho singed wool
can be brushed off with the hand without
the least trace of the burn being afterward
The latest scheme to aid the needy fam
ilies of soldiers at the front is a free fruit
and vegetable market, to be established by
the Woman's Patriotic Belief association.
"Our idea is this," said one of the ladles
who is promoting the plan: "We have
many families on our list who have to be
supplied with food from day to day. Now,
all our citizens are generous and willing
to aid In the work, but not all can give
money. We want to start this market
so that farmers, commission merchants,
grocers, butchers and Icemen can contri
bute their mlte from day to day. We are
looking for a vacant building somewhere
on the east side. Probably we will get
what we want rent free. Then we will
ask for donations of all sorts of food.
For instance, the small grocer may have
some of his stock left over. It is not
spoiled, but It will be If it lies in the store
another day. Instead of risking a dead
loss on his perishable vegetables, he will
be asked to bring them to our market, and
we will give them to the needy families on
our list. lie will have helped our cause
without feeling tlie expenditure as much
as if he had given money. Several ice
firms havo promised Ice: the commission
men havo not boon canvassed, but,they
always have goods left over which I am
sure they would be glad to give to such a
good purpose."
"Who will manage your market?" was
"Women of the Patriotic Relief associa
tion," was the prompt reply. "We will
take turns in spending a few hours of tha
day at the market and sending out tha
It will bo a novel sight to see women
well known In club nnd fashionable cir
cles dressed in denim and acting as gro
cer's clerks for the needy.
Many women belonging to the Patriotic
Relief association are staying In the city
this summer for the sole purpose of car
rying on the work ot that association.
They will divide their forces so that
three or four of their members will work
in the market each morning, receiving and
sending out contributions. Their places
will be taken by others In the afternoon
and a new delegation will be on hand each
day, so that the work will not become too
arduous for any one member.
"Money Is being contributed very freely
to our cause." said a member of the execu
tive committee, "but there are so many
uses for the cash that we dislike to spend
a cent where some donation of what we
want will save the money,"—New York
To Avoid Summer Colds
Drills - practice in nose respiration leads to
Its unconscious performance. It will pre
vent the contraction of colds, its water va
pors will keep the membrane constantly
moist and their ciliated epithelium will serve
ns a dust filter, as may be experienced at any
time when the air is filled with dust or
Seventy-five per cent of all known baeterla
and 80 per cent ot thoso living In the air
have been found in the mucous of the nose,
which Is poison to them. It has further
been proven that the secondary nasal cav
ities are In a more or less close connection
with the brain; numerous minute lymphatic
canals open beneath the. membranes lining;
the nose and its secondary cavities. Tho
liquid excretions of the bralreescape through
these channels Into the atmosphere by ex
portation, constituting the chief source for
the moisture of the nose.—Philadelphia
At Welbeck, In Germany, a decree bas
bjen proclaimed that a license to marry;
will not be granted to any Individual wm*
*as been m the habit of getting trujs.

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