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One of the exquisite decollete dinner toilettes worn by Parisian women Just now. It is of rose-colored silk, shaded from light to dark, each flounce edged by a lepf-green ribbon. A large garland of buds and green leaves carries out the color scheme. The yellow hat lias only long black ostrich feathers for trimming. DECOLLETE GOWNS AND LARGE HATS A Most Charming Combination, Enabling All Women to Appear Attractive When Dining NEW YORK, Aug. B.—(Special Corre ipondcnce to The Herald.) Artists discov ered lour; ago that a decollete gown worn with a large hat made the most ot a wo man's beauty. French actresses studying the art ot being beautiful have appeared of late on the stage, at their stage dinners, Sressed in this manner and now the "ele gantes" have adopted the vogue with en thusiasm. Brilliant evening gowns dis playing beautiful shoulders are seen every where at fashionable restaurants. With these are worn large hats hitherto consid ered only appropriate for day wear or for high gowns. It is a delightful innovation, and many a comparatively plain woman has been mad>e over Into a beauty by the combination of a low gown and a large hat. Wo shall see tha style here this winter, liven now a few society women havo been seen at Newport dining at the Casino dressed In this manner. In tha same spirit •women ore -wearing this summer muslin gowns in the street which wero until today supposed to he suitable only to ths house. How have they been made acceptable? It Is again by learn ing from the Parisian that a touch of black makes everything possible. These light muslins are toned down by black. One of lavender with a deep flounce and round nalst and sleeves In diagonal tucks has a liny black net ruche on the edges of the ruffle and two above in wavy curves; ruf fled epaulettes edged wilh black give a fluffy look to the waist which has a full yok« and collar of white muslin edged with two puffs of black. Belt of black ribbon with buckle of steel. Of course this black net will not wash hut no one makes up a thi*l gown nowadays with a view to its washing. Here is a hint which you will probably thank me for. YTith these muslin gowns you need not wear a black ribbon around your neck because you wear a black belt. You can use white ribbon for the collar. It Is far more becoming, and If bought by Ihe piece, not at all expensive. Velvet: Is also in use with these summer gowns ond Is far more becoming than taffeta or satin ribbon. Dressmakers prophesy that lt will be a favorite fabric for such parts cf a gown ln the'fall. Velvet adds a richness to silk or woollen goods, as we all know, and a small quan tity Is as effective as much more of an other fabric. Here Is another hint. Partly jworn cotton gowns can he freshened and appear like new with new ribbon sashes, collars and belts. Thin cotton gowns Should be pressed on the wrong sldo with a moderately warm Iron. When ruffles are plain edge them with lace when you are freshening them with the new ribbons, and you will be surprised at the transfor mation. A fichu of net lace edged or chiffon is always ln style and nearly covers a part ly worn waist. Silk Linings Tho Idea Is now Ilrmly fixed in tho fem inine mind that all dresses, cotton, wool pr silk, must have a silk lining that In this oft season, when many bargains In short lengths are to be picked up, we should buy for future use. A taffeta skirt llrllng gives a dress a handsome appearance and makes lt hang so much better that the cost Is nearly made tip to the wearer by the saving on the outside material. When buying, see that you get a firm silk; lt need not be heavy, but must be of the quality that sells at from 75 to SO cents a yard. The crackle Is no longer wished sufficiently loud to warn all of Its presence. Along the shades correct for these skirt linings are golden browns, tabac and mar ron, trio noon, porphyre and rose pink, roi and rclnc red, orange, the two lighter tur quoise shades, tho emerald greens, the pervencho blues of medium tints, light violet and the medium rose shades called cyrnno, which will line gray, black or jn-own dresses beautifully. BATHING SUIT IDEAS 'Costumes That Make the Mermaids Turn Green With Envy The seaside bathing season is now ln full blast. The sands are dotted everywhere with forms of both sexes attired in a fash ion which would not be" tolerated lit any drawing room, yet which occasions no re mark. Never were these costumes so be coming, yet one cannot help wondering how the tan Is to be removed from the shoulders and arms so lavishly displayed. Tho very swell people wear long gloves, lt Ix true, but the many do not. I saw a lovely young woman the other day In a suit of pale green mohair trimmed with white openwork mohair ins'ertlon about two Inches wide; that Is, the one row on the skirt was this width while the row which edged the low-cut blouse bodice ond formed the sleeves, was about an Inch and a half wide. There were no sleeves of the material, simply these straps of braid entirely sur rounding the arm's eye. A narrow waist band and bow ot white alpaca and a while, LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, AUGUST 14, 1898 Decollete dinner gown of gray taffeta, trimmed with crystal and steel passe- Decollete dinner gown of mist gray satin, veiled with spangled tulle and a jet menterle. Toque of white tulle with black ostrich feathers. galloon. Hat of. rose-colored straw with feathers to match. hat with a huge bow of waterproofed white ribbon completed a charming toilette. This year In France they have reached a degree of luxury which hos not as yet oc curred to us. They have bathing pavilions or cottages on the beach, each decorated and furnished In the most delightful man ner. I.lttle tea tables, pictures, mattings, bamboo lounging chairs, a dressing table with all toilet appliances, screened from public view by a curtain drawn at will. Here a largo portion of the morning or afternoon is passed receiving friends, rest ing after the bath and displaying before the bath the becoming bathing costumes. They are no longer "suits." they have at tained to the dignity ot being called "cos tumes." Black Hose Here is an absolutely correct bit of In formation from Paris. I give it to you, knowing that you will bless me for It later on. After this your hose must match your toilets. No more black ones—this is of ficial. Choose mauve if your gown is rnauvo, blue If your gown is Mack but its lining blue; pink If your petticoats and linings are pink. Truly, we can count lipon nothing hero below. All our fine black nose our silk, our lisle thread, and for those who have ventured to wear white this summer, our snowy ones, to lie re placed by pink, blue, man re, and all tho ether shinies. The Return of tho Bang Women have gone mad on the subject of new coiffures. For young and pretty women, or for those whose profiles can bear It, Is the Greek with Its waved tresses drawn back and held in a single projecting loop as shown In our illustration, lint What is KOing to bo style for the future, that which all women will adopt? We are told that the bang Is to be that style—the old-fashioned, straight or slightly waved fringe. It Is years v nnd years since we saw that low-cut fringe of hair, that Is off the heads of little girls, so lt will be a p,hange, at any rate, when It arrives. People are wondering what sort of comb and hair ornaments will go with this type of coiffure. Side-combs certainly will, and fhe Spanish or Kmplre comb mlKht be util ized stfll above the low set coll Instead of as now beneath the one dressed hl«h. A narrow lons comb shaped to He flat on the prown of the head, will also probably ap pear, and silken bands and tulle will bo available also. But the metier of the new coiffure is to show the shape of the head, to be, ln fact, a decided contrast to thnt With which we are now familiar. THE WAR GIRL She wore a dress of navy blue Tho collar while and blue and red; A striped belt—and stockings, too, A sailor hat was on her head. Red, white and blue her chatelaine) She had a flag beneath her chin, She wore a badge—"U. S. S. Maine," A tiny cannon for a pin. She wore a shell-comb in her hair, With army buttons all embossed; Some swords were also sticking there, And at her belt some rifles crossed. Her pocket-book was knapsack shape, Her smelling bottle a wee canteen, Containing essence of "Crushed Crape" The neatest thing I'd ever seen. Her face was patriotic, too, And full ot everlasting charms. Her cheeks were, red, teeth white, eyes blue, She also had repeating arms. In fact, she was in "lighting trim." So an "engagement" I did seek; And though my chance to win was slim, I cruised around about her cheek. Puff! Suddenly she fired nt me A perfect fusillade of smiles! It shook my heart "windward" to "Us," Re-echoing for mile* and miles! My rapid-firing lips I turned Upon her Ihen (for they were loaded), But when the fast-sent kisses burned, The powder on her face exploded! —Truth. A BUTTERFLY'S DAINTY MEAL There strolled a blithesome maiden In cool and shady wood. A butterfly came gaily And kissed her where she stood. "Forgive me," prayed the vandal, "Forgive me mine offense. While 1 was honey supping Among the flowers dripping, Thy red, red lips bewitching, Dike roses, lured me hence." Then laughing spake the maiden, "For this time, little thing, Will I forgive your sinning. But. mark, ln the beginning, These roses do not blotsom For every thief or. wing." —From the German, by D. B. C. DAME FASHION DINES DECOLLETE OVER THE CHAFING DISH They were gathered in the hall bed room of the third floor back, and the host ess, balanced on the edge of the wash stand, was making fudges over the flame of the solitary gas Jet, while In tho dim light that consequently pervaded the room the girl whose yearly income is written with four figures was brewing tea with the aid of a 5 oclock kettle. It was Sunday. Sunday may not be a fashionable calling day in that society which capitalizes itself in the newspapers, but in the smaller and more obscure sphere in which the business woman moves it Is the one day of all the week when she may put to practical test the Joys of the "gabble, gobble and git." as dear old Dr. Holmes is' said to have once described a fashionable reception. "Where do you keep your stewpan when you're not using if?" queried the girl who had plumped herseTif down among the pil lows on a piece of furniture that served as a. couch by day and a bed by night. "In my hat box," answered the hostess, giving the bubbling brown mass another stir. "Oh. my, no, no; not with my hat. It doesn't make much difference where that goes, but ! don't dare be careless about the stewpan. And that keyhole is plugged. You see, I got ready for you." "Funny people, these landladies, aren't they?" put tn the girl who occupied the one rocking chair. "It's a problem to me whether it is the business that ruins their tempers or whether It is the ill-natured people who naturally turn to keeping hoarders. Some day, when I have had all the stenography I can stand, and when I'm a widow and havo some furniture and (vaguely) other things, I'm going to run a boarding house of my own. and It will be on brand-new principles. First of all, there'll be no men in It—only girls." "Count mo out," came from the pil lows. "Oh, but there'll be a half-dozen Utile par lors, with chafing dlsh.-s nnd comfortable chairs, nnd every girl can have JuiTt as many callers as she wants, and no Questions asked." "Queer, isn't it, how landladies object to taking women to board?" remarked the girl who was making tea. *'I feel Ulce a criminal or something worse whrn fate compels me to change my quarters, The catechism some put you is enough to drive one into matrimony tn sheer self-defense, and the humility tha* one has to assume is mortifying to one's pride. Landladies never ask men those questions, or regard them with such 111 --eoncealed suspicion; but I, for my part, Judging from what I have seen of the young man who Inhabits hoarding houses, would rather have a business woman every time." "Tho men don't 'mess' as we are doing now," said the girl in the. rocking chair. "O, bother, they do, too. Look at tha rhnting dishes every man is setting up for himself, and think of the way in which Welsh rarebits and 'angels on horseback' can scent up the premises. Why, a man told me not long ago that he kept a gas stove, a kettle and a saucepan in a trunk in his closet, and served up regular suppers nt midnight to his cronies, and the land lady never suspected him." "And think of their nasty pipes and bad smelling tobacco ashes." "Uut girls don't do their laundering In the bathroom, and iron on the window panes and bureau mirrors," protested the tea maker. "That's one of the slanders put upon us because of those nasty, miserable ways In which married women who boarii try to economize so they, can get a new silk petticoat. Those women are responsible for all the trouble, anyway. A business woman Is no more trouble as a boarder than a business man. She's away from the hottso just as much as he Is, and when she Is at home she Isn't raising Ned with a lot of rowdies, or perfuming the lace curtains with tobacco smoke. "No. the business woman makes the very best kind of a boarder, but she doesn't begin to get her rights. If she has men friends who come to call on her the old women in the boarding house immediately put her down as a bold, had thing; and if s!i» doesn't they dub hf r a crabbed old maid, and leave her out of their stupid whist par ties, so that she doesn't have any social life at ull. Something ought to be done about it." "Hut what are you going to do?" re marked the voice from the pillows. "Get a flat, hire a maid and snap your fingers ot conventionality," said the girl ot the four-figure Income. Hut the hostess, who was pouring the fudges on to waxed paper, said nothing. She was wondering how that solution ap plied to her case when even a third lloor buck room took off a big slice of Iter slender salary. "There's nothing for such as me except to build day dreams of a big, big salary, of a nice, nice husband," she said to herself, "and I think, yes, 1 really do, that the man would be the preferable solution." But aloud she merely said; "F.at. my downtrodden sisters, eat."—Chi cago Tribune. A New Game for Summer Evenings Information parties are the newest form of amusement. They are designed to In clude all those persons who usually decline anything In the way of a game on the plea that they "are not intellectual, you know," and "have only time to read the papers." To read the papers is all that Is required In this game. The war Information Is the favored branch of this interrogative game. To begin with, you must have a good mem ory if you want to take the head prize, and of course you do, particularly if the'heail prlzo Is a silver belt burTcie and yon are a man,, or a shaving mug and you are a woman. No civil service examination is re quired to test the said quick memory—lts presence or absence will be divulged later on. The first person begins lry asking some leading question, as "Who was the Spanish admiral at Manila?" caling upon some one of the party to answer. If answered. The fashions ot 1830 paling in interest, antiquity now furnishes a startling idea. The Greek sandal and the Greek manner of wearing the hair have suddenly appeared and are having a tremendous success with fashionable women. Thepaair'must be waved, drawn back, held in a loop and the ends wound around until a distinct ! separation Is made between the head and the loop. This is the Greek idea. * —a the Interrogated asks one In "her turn; If unanswered, she continues asking until she finds a ready response. Of course it is understood that no one may ask a question she or he cannot answer. You may think you know all the war to Its minutest de tails, but you will be surprised to find out how llttlo. after all, one knows as to n»-ces snry details. Dots of useful knowledge and fun may be obtained, end lt Is surprising how tho quiet man who hasn't said very much and didn't apparently know whether It was good form for a man to wear a soft silk belt and displayed a lamentable ignor ance of the la.st now dancing step is here In his element and puts a ball ln every hole. —New York Herald. A Word About Summer Luncheons Do not have your flower's too profuse. Do not oversalt anything, as tt Induces thirst; nnd do not forget that the trickle of Ice Is sweetest of hot weather music. Use it, cracked, under olives and around tomatoes if they be served alone; shave it, and fill tumblers for tea, grape Juice or other cold beverages; Indeed, Introduce lt wherever possible.—Woman's Home Com panion. She gave mo a rose From her shining hair, A red, red rose; Ah. but she's fair! Would it could disclose. , The thoughts hidden there When she gave the rose! Ah, does she care? Qulen sabe? Who knows? —Mary Kent Davey in Lipplncott's. WHAT THE CHILDREN BAY When, In the dusk of evening, I . >me to where I see Three little fae.es at the window 'king down at me, I hear the shout of "Papa," and tile sound of scampering feet, And find myself a prisoner ere I can beat retreat; The robbers seize my parcels and search my pockets through. And bear me to their castle spite of all that I can do. There the queen of these banditti gently, chides their boist'rous glee, And asks how many kisses lt Will take to ransom me. Oh, Is there any pleasure in all th* busy day That's quite as sweet as listening then to what the children say? Helen thinks a hundred kisses are enough to ransom me, If I'll change them all for pennies bright as soon as I am free; While Harry claims that "Papa Is more valuable than that;" And so the rascal confiscates my overcoat and hat. Hut tender-hearted Josephine makes terms for my release; "We'll let you go, dear papa, for just one kiss apiece." When I've paid my ransom duly, this val iant robber band Escorts me to the table, with a guard oai either hand, There for a blessed hour I fling my care* away And grow younger as I listen to what th* children say. From my prison ln the study I detect them stealing by, 'TH! th« y think they're out of hearing, then with shouts away they fly. All about the house they frolic—now below, now overhead; Little chance I'll have for study till they*!* snugly tucked In bed. But at last there comes a silence, and I tiptoe out to see Three little sober faces clustered at their mother's knee. Their prayer, "Please bless dear papa,'" never falls to put to rout Every skeptical opinion or philosophic) doubt. When the world looks cold and cheerless. and heaven sterns faraway, Just stop, my friend, and listen tb what ths children say. —Thomas C. Roney in the Chicago Stand* ard. The Smocked Golf Waists The new golf shirt waist Is a free trans latlon of the English peasant's smocked frock. A light cashmere flannel Is the ma terial used for the shirts that button up behind, are richly smocked over the front and shoulders and are worn with the-short talis on the outside. Meadow or malachite green flannel Is the Bhlrt's color, relieved by a clear red belt of leather and rolling red flannel collars ond cuffs. The shirt tails renlly only flare out upon the hips a couple of inches, and the sleeves are smocked at the wrists. Worn with a green waterproof serge skfrt and a "Rough Rid er's" hat, tire golf skirt helps to make up a wonderrully rustic and picturesque cos tume. The New Veils Reach Just to the Eyes A new veil that women are experimenting with Is a black net, heavily dotted, but only up to the level of the eyes. On a level with, the range of vision no dots are woven and the effort of the manufacturer Is obvious ond commendable. This new policy has been most conspicuously pursued with re gard to the white veils dotted with black, quite the most blinding masque a woman, can wear. A thing even more evil than that |is the dark blue veil with white dots that ;is selling like the traditional hot cakes. An Acceptable Substitute ••Ah:" sighed the summer girl. "I wish, you owned a yacht and would place lt at my disposal." "Sorry I can't oblige you." replied the young man. "but the best I can offer is a little smack.*' Am! the silence was punctured by a sound resembling the opening of a pop bot tle.—Chicago News. 15