The herald. [microfilm reel], August 14, 1898, Page 15, Image 15

About The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
One of the exquisite decollete dinner toilettes worn by Parisian women Just
now. It is of rose-colored silk, shaded from light to dark, each flounce
edged by a lepf-green ribbon. A large garland of buds and green
leaves carries out the color scheme. The yellow hat lias only long black
ostrich feathers for trimming.
DECOLLETE GOWNS AND LARGE HATS
A Most Charming Combination, Enabling All Women
to Appear Attractive When Dining
NEW YORK, Aug. B.—(Special Corre
ipondcnce to The Herald.) Artists discov
ered lour; ago that a decollete gown worn
with a large hat made the most ot a wo
man's beauty. French actresses studying
the art ot being beautiful have appeared
of late on the stage, at their stage dinners,
Sressed in this manner and now the "ele
gantes" have adopted the vogue with en
thusiasm. Brilliant evening gowns dis
playing beautiful shoulders are seen every
where at fashionable restaurants. With
these are worn large hats hitherto consid
ered only appropriate for day wear or for
high gowns. It is a delightful innovation,
and many a comparatively plain woman
has been mad>e over Into a beauty by the
combination of a low gown and a large hat.
Wo shall see tha style here this winter,
liven now a few society women havo been
seen at Newport dining at the Casino
dressed In this manner.
In tha same spirit •women ore -wearing
this summer muslin gowns in the street
which wero until today supposed to he
suitable only to ths house. How have they
been made acceptable? It Is again by learn
ing from the Parisian that a touch of black
makes everything possible. These light
muslins are toned down by black. One of
lavender with a deep flounce and round
nalst and sleeves In diagonal tucks has a
liny black net ruche on the edges of the
ruffle and two above in wavy curves; ruf
fled epaulettes edged wilh black give a
fluffy look to the waist which has a full
yok« and collar of white muslin edged with
two puffs of black. Belt of black ribbon
with buckle of steel. Of course this black
net will not wash hut no one makes up a
thi*l gown nowadays with a view to its
washing.
Here is a hint which you will probably
thank me for. YTith these muslin gowns
you need not wear a black ribbon around
your neck because you wear a black belt.
You can use white ribbon for the collar. It
Is far more becoming, and If bought by Ihe
piece, not at all expensive. Velvet: Is also
in use with these summer gowns ond Is far
more becoming than taffeta or satin ribbon.
Dressmakers prophesy that lt will be a
favorite fabric for such parts cf a gown ln
the'fall.
Velvet adds a richness to silk or woollen
goods, as we all know, and a small quan
tity Is as effective as much more of an
other fabric. Here Is another hint. Partly
jworn cotton gowns can he freshened and
appear like new with new ribbon sashes,
collars and belts. Thin cotton gowns
Should be pressed on the wrong sldo with
a moderately warm Iron. When ruffles are
plain edge them with lace when you are
freshening them with the new ribbons,
and you will be surprised at the transfor
mation. A fichu of net lace edged or chiffon
is always ln style and nearly covers a part
ly worn waist.
Silk Linings
Tho Idea Is now Ilrmly fixed in tho fem
inine mind that all dresses, cotton, wool
pr silk, must have a silk lining that In this
oft season, when many bargains In short
lengths are to be picked up, we should
buy for future use. A taffeta skirt llrllng
gives a dress a handsome appearance and
makes lt hang so much better that the
cost Is nearly made tip to the wearer by
the saving on the outside material. When
buying, see that you get a firm silk; lt need
not be heavy, but must be of the quality
that sells at from 75 to SO cents a yard. The
crackle Is no longer wished sufficiently loud
to warn all of Its presence.
Along the shades correct for these skirt
linings are golden browns, tabac and mar
ron, trio noon, porphyre and rose pink, roi
and rclnc red, orange, the two lighter tur
quoise shades, tho emerald greens, the
pervencho blues of medium tints, light
violet and the medium rose shades called
cyrnno, which will line gray, black or
jn-own dresses beautifully.
BATHING SUIT IDEAS
'Costumes That Make the Mermaids
Turn Green With Envy
The seaside bathing season is now ln full
blast. The sands are dotted everywhere
with forms of both sexes attired in a fash
ion which would not be" tolerated lit any
drawing room, yet which occasions no re
mark. Never were these costumes so be
coming, yet one cannot help wondering
how the tan Is to be removed from the
shoulders and arms so lavishly displayed.
Tho very swell people wear long gloves, lt
Ix true, but the many do not. I saw a lovely
young woman the other day In a suit of
pale green mohair trimmed with white
openwork mohair ins'ertlon about two
Inches wide; that Is, the one row on the
skirt was this width while the row which
edged the low-cut blouse bodice ond formed
the sleeves, was about an Inch and a half
wide.
There were no sleeves of the material,
simply these straps of braid entirely sur
rounding the arm's eye. A narrow waist
band and bow ot white alpaca and a while,
LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, AUGUST 14, 1898
Decollete dinner gown of gray taffeta, trimmed with crystal and steel passe- Decollete dinner gown of mist gray satin, veiled with spangled tulle and a jet
menterle. Toque of white tulle with black ostrich feathers. galloon. Hat of. rose-colored straw with feathers to match.
hat with a huge bow of waterproofed
white ribbon completed a charming toilette.
This year In France they have reached a
degree of luxury which hos not as yet oc
curred to us. They have bathing pavilions
or cottages on the beach, each decorated
and furnished In the most delightful man
ner. I.lttle tea tables, pictures, mattings,
bamboo lounging chairs, a dressing table
with all toilet appliances, screened from
public view by a curtain drawn at will.
Here a largo portion of the morning or
afternoon is passed receiving friends, rest
ing after the bath and displaying before
the bath the becoming bathing costumes.
They are no longer "suits." they have at
tained to the dignity ot being called "cos
tumes."
Black Hose
Here is an absolutely correct bit of In
formation from Paris. I give it to you,
knowing that you will bless me for It later
on. After this your hose must match your
toilets. No more black ones—this is of
ficial. Choose mauve if your gown is
rnauvo, blue If your gown is Mack but its
lining blue; pink If your petticoats and
linings are pink. Truly, we can count
lipon nothing hero below. All our fine
black nose our silk, our lisle thread, and
for those who have ventured to wear white
this summer, our snowy ones, to lie re
placed by pink, blue, man re, and all tho
ether shinies.
The Return of tho Bang
Women have gone mad on the subject
of new coiffures. For young and pretty
women, or for those whose profiles can
bear It, Is the Greek with Its waved tresses
drawn back and held in a single projecting
loop as shown In our illustration, lint
What is KOing to bo style for the future,
that which all women will adopt? We are
told that the bang Is to be that style—the
old-fashioned, straight or slightly waved
fringe. It Is years v nnd years since we
saw that low-cut fringe of hair, that Is off
the heads of little girls, so lt will be a
p,hange, at any rate, when It arrives.
People are wondering what sort of comb
and hair ornaments will go with this type
of coiffure. Side-combs certainly will, and
fhe Spanish or Kmplre comb mlKht be util
ized stfll above the low set coll Instead of
as now beneath the one dressed hl«h. A
narrow lons comb shaped to He flat on the
prown of the head, will also probably ap
pear, and silken bands and tulle will bo
available also. But the metier of the new
coiffure is to show the shape of the head,
to be, ln fact, a decided contrast to thnt
With which we are now familiar.
THE WAR GIRL
She wore a dress of navy blue
Tho collar while and blue and red;
A striped belt—and stockings, too,
A sailor hat was on her head.
Red, white and blue her chatelaine)
She had a flag beneath her chin,
She wore a badge—"U. S. S. Maine,"
A tiny cannon for a pin.
She wore a shell-comb in her hair,
With army buttons all embossed;
Some swords were also sticking there,
And at her belt some rifles crossed.
Her pocket-book was knapsack shape,
Her smelling bottle a wee canteen,
Containing essence of "Crushed Crape"
The neatest thing I'd ever seen.
Her face was patriotic, too,
And full ot everlasting charms.
Her cheeks were, red, teeth white, eyes
blue,
She also had repeating arms.
In fact, she was in "lighting trim."
So an "engagement" I did seek;
And though my chance to win was slim,
I cruised around about her cheek.
Puff! Suddenly she fired nt me
A perfect fusillade of smiles!
It shook my heart "windward" to "Us,"
Re-echoing for mile* and miles!
My rapid-firing lips I turned
Upon her Ihen (for they were loaded),
But when the fast-sent kisses burned,
The powder on her face exploded!
—Truth.
A BUTTERFLY'S DAINTY MEAL
There strolled a blithesome maiden
In cool and shady wood.
A butterfly came gaily
And kissed her where she stood.
"Forgive me," prayed the vandal,
"Forgive me mine offense.
While 1 was honey supping
Among the flowers dripping,
Thy red, red lips bewitching,
Dike roses, lured me hence."
Then laughing spake the maiden,
"For this time, little thing,
Will I forgive your sinning.
But. mark, ln the beginning,
These roses do not blotsom
For every thief or. wing."
—From the German, by D. B. C.
DAME FASHION
DINES
DECOLLETE
OVER THE CHAFING DISH
They were gathered in the hall bed
room of the third floor back, and the host
ess, balanced on the edge of the wash
stand, was making fudges over the flame
of the solitary gas Jet, while In tho dim
light that consequently pervaded the room
the girl whose yearly income is written
with four figures was brewing tea with
the aid of a 5 oclock kettle.
It was Sunday. Sunday may not be a
fashionable calling day in that society
which capitalizes itself in the newspapers,
but in the smaller and more obscure sphere
in which the business woman moves it Is
the one day of all the week when she may
put to practical test the Joys of the "gabble,
gobble and git." as dear old Dr. Holmes is'
said to have once described a fashionable
reception.
"Where do you keep your stewpan when
you're not using if?" queried the girl who
had plumped herseTif down among the pil
lows on a piece of furniture that served as
a. couch by day and a bed by night.
"In my hat box," answered the hostess,
giving the bubbling brown mass another
stir. "Oh. my, no, no; not with my hat. It
doesn't make much difference where that
goes, but ! don't dare be careless about the
stewpan. And that keyhole is plugged. You
see, I got ready for you."
"Funny people, these landladies, aren't
they?" put tn the girl who occupied the
one rocking chair. "It's a problem to me
whether it is the business that ruins their
tempers or whether It is the ill-natured
people who naturally turn to keeping
hoarders. Some day, when I have had all
the stenography I can stand, and when I'm
a widow and havo some furniture and
(vaguely) other things, I'm going to run a
boarding house of my own. and It will be on
brand-new principles. First of all, there'll
be no men in It—only girls."
"Count mo out," came from the pil
lows.
"Oh, but there'll be a half-dozen Utile par
lors, with chafing dlsh.-s nnd comfortable
chairs, nnd every girl can have JuiTt as
many callers as she wants, and no Questions
asked."
"Queer, isn't it, how landladies object to
taking women to board?" remarked the
girl who was making tea. *'I feel Ulce a
criminal or something worse whrn fate
compels me to change my quarters, The
catechism some put you is
enough to drive one into matrimony tn
sheer self-defense, and the humility tha*
one has to assume is mortifying to one's
pride. Landladies never ask men those
questions, or regard them with such 111
--eoncealed suspicion; but I, for my part,
Judging from what I have seen of the
young man who Inhabits hoarding houses,
would rather have a business woman every
time."
"Tho men don't 'mess' as we are doing
now," said the girl in the. rocking chair.
"O, bother, they do, too. Look at tha
rhnting dishes every man is setting up for
himself, and think of the way in which
Welsh rarebits and 'angels on horseback'
can scent up the premises. Why, a man
told me not long ago that he kept a gas
stove, a kettle and a saucepan in a trunk
in his closet, and served up regular suppers
nt midnight to his cronies, and the land
lady never suspected him."
"And think of their nasty pipes and bad
smelling tobacco ashes."
"Uut girls don't do their laundering In
the bathroom, and iron on the window panes
and bureau mirrors," protested the tea
maker. "That's one of the slanders put
upon us because of those nasty, miserable
ways In which married women who boarii
try to economize so they, can get a new silk
petticoat. Those women are responsible
for all the trouble, anyway. A business
woman Is no more trouble as a boarder than
a business man. She's away from the hottso
just as much as he Is, and when she Is at
home she Isn't raising Ned with a lot of
rowdies, or perfuming the lace curtains
with tobacco smoke.
"No. the business woman makes the very
best kind of a boarder, but she doesn't begin
to get her rights. If she has men friends
who come to call on her the old women in
the boarding house immediately put her
down as a bold, had thing; and if s!i»
doesn't they dub hf r a crabbed old maid,
and leave her out of their stupid whist par
ties, so that she doesn't have any social life
at ull. Something ought to be done about
it."
"Hut what are you going to do?" re
marked the voice from the pillows.
"Get a flat, hire a maid and snap your
fingers ot conventionality," said the girl ot
the four-figure Income.
Hut the hostess, who was pouring the
fudges on to waxed paper, said nothing.
She was wondering how that solution ap
plied to her case when even a third lloor
buck room took off a big slice of Iter slender
salary.
"There's nothing for such as me except
to build day dreams of a big, big salary, of
a nice, nice husband," she said to herself,
"and I think, yes, 1 really do, that the man
would be the preferable solution." But
aloud she merely said;
"F.at. my downtrodden sisters, eat."—Chi
cago Tribune.
A New Game for Summer Evenings
Information parties are the newest form
of amusement. They are designed to In
clude all those persons who usually decline
anything In the way of a game on the plea
that they "are not intellectual, you know,"
and "have only time to read the papers."
To read the papers is all that Is required
In this game. The war Information Is the
favored branch of this interrogative game.
To begin with, you must have a good mem
ory if you want to take the head prize, and
of course you do, particularly if the'heail
prlzo Is a silver belt burTcie and yon are a
man,, or a shaving mug and you are a
woman. No civil service examination is re
quired to test the said quick memory—lts
presence or absence will be divulged later
on. The first person begins lry asking some
leading question, as "Who was the Spanish
admiral at Manila?" caling upon some
one of the party to answer. If answered.
The fashions ot 1830 paling in interest, antiquity now furnishes a startling idea. The Greek sandal and the Greek
manner of wearing the hair have suddenly appeared and are having a tremendous success with fashionable
women. Thepaair'must be waved, drawn back, held in a loop and the ends wound around until a distinct
! separation Is made between the head and the loop. This is the Greek idea. * —a
the Interrogated asks one In "her turn; If
unanswered, she continues asking until
she finds a ready response. Of course it is
understood that no one may ask a question
she or he cannot answer. You may think
you know all the war to Its minutest de
tails, but you will be surprised to find out
how llttlo. after all, one knows as to n»-ces
snry details. Dots of useful knowledge and
fun may be obtained, end lt Is surprising
how tho quiet man who hasn't said very
much and didn't apparently know whether
It was good form for a man to wear a soft
silk belt and displayed a lamentable ignor
ance of the la.st now dancing step is here
In his element and puts a ball ln every hole.
—New York Herald.
A Word About Summer Luncheons
Do not have your flower's too profuse.
Do not oversalt anything, as tt Induces
thirst; nnd do not forget that the trickle
of Ice Is sweetest of hot weather music.
Use it, cracked, under olives and around
tomatoes if they be served alone; shave it,
and fill tumblers for tea, grape Juice or
other cold beverages; Indeed, Introduce lt
wherever possible.—Woman's Home Com
panion.
She gave mo a rose
From her shining hair,
A red, red rose;
Ah. but she's fair!
Would it could disclose. ,
The thoughts hidden there
When she gave the rose!
Ah, does she care?
Qulen sabe? Who knows?
—Mary Kent Davey in Lipplncott's.
WHAT THE CHILDREN BAY
When, In the dusk of evening, I . >me to
where I see
Three little fae.es at the window 'king
down at me,
I hear the shout of "Papa," and tile
sound of scampering feet,
And find myself a prisoner ere I can beat
retreat;
The robbers seize my parcels and search
my pockets through.
And bear me to their castle spite of all
that I can do.
There the queen of these banditti gently,
chides their boist'rous glee,
And asks how many kisses lt Will take to
ransom me.
Oh, Is there any pleasure in all th* busy
day
That's quite as sweet as listening then to
what the children say?
Helen thinks a hundred kisses are enough
to ransom me,
If I'll change them all for pennies bright
as soon as I am free;
While Harry claims that "Papa Is more
valuable than that;"
And so the rascal confiscates my overcoat
and hat.
Hut tender-hearted Josephine makes terms
for my release;
"We'll let you go, dear papa, for just one
kiss apiece."
When I've paid my ransom duly, this val
iant robber band
Escorts me to the table, with a guard oai
either hand,
There for a blessed hour I fling my care*
away
And grow younger as I listen to what th*
children say.
From my prison ln the study I detect them
stealing by,
'TH! th« y think they're out of hearing, then
with shouts away they fly.
All about the house they frolic—now below,
now overhead;
Little chance I'll have for study till they*!*
snugly tucked In bed.
But at last there comes a silence, and I
tiptoe out to see
Three little sober faces clustered at their
mother's knee.
Their prayer, "Please bless dear papa,'"
never falls to put to rout
Every skeptical opinion or philosophic)
doubt.
When the world looks cold and cheerless.
and heaven sterns faraway,
Just stop, my friend, and listen tb what ths
children say.
—Thomas C. Roney in the Chicago Stand*
ard.
The Smocked Golf Waists
The new golf shirt waist Is a free trans
latlon of the English peasant's smocked
frock. A light cashmere flannel Is the ma
terial used for the shirts that button up
behind, are richly smocked over the front
and shoulders and are worn with the-short
talis on the outside. Meadow or malachite
green flannel Is the Bhlrt's color, relieved
by a clear red belt of leather and rolling
red flannel collars ond cuffs. The shirt
tails renlly only flare out upon the hips a
couple of inches, and the sleeves are
smocked at the wrists. Worn with a green
waterproof serge skfrt and a "Rough Rid
er's" hat, tire golf skirt helps to make up
a wonderrully rustic and picturesque cos
tume.
The New Veils Reach Just to the Eyes
A new veil that women are experimenting
with Is a black net, heavily dotted, but only
up to the level of the eyes. On a level with,
the range of vision no dots are woven and
the effort of the manufacturer Is obvious
ond commendable. This new policy has
been most conspicuously pursued with re
gard to the white veils dotted with black,
quite the most blinding masque a woman,
can wear. A thing even more evil than that
|is the dark blue veil with white dots that
;is selling like the traditional hot cakes.
An Acceptable Substitute
••Ah:" sighed the summer girl. "I wish,
you owned a yacht and would place lt at
my disposal."
"Sorry I can't oblige you." replied the
young man. "but the best I can offer is a
little smack.*'
Am! the silence was punctured by a
sound resembling the opening of a pop bot
tle.—Chicago News.
15