The herald. [microfilm reel], October 23, 1898, Page 15, Image 15

About The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
Your Hat Should
Match Your Gown
NEW YORK, Oct. 17.—(Special Corre
spondence to Trie Herald). The distinctive
note of the current fashions is still slimness,
and, ss this is so, I am, after describing a
few of the lovely gowns I have aeen this
week, going to indite a lecture to the tnll
and slight. It seems to me that their name
it legion and that they are making many
mistakes in their enthusiasm for the new
styles. First) however, as to the gowns
I have seen.
There is no doubt but that we are to hove
double skirts next winter. They are with
us even now as this reception toilet will
prove, ond I could describe many others
of the ssme vogue. The material of this ex
quisite gown was pcrvenche blue taffeta.
You will remember thot this color is half
way between mauve nnd blue and partakes
of the character of both. The front of the
skirt formed an original tablier in pointed
•hawl fashion, edged with a deep similar
colored silk fringe from beneath; small
flounces ornamented the skirt in a circu
lar manner, which were hidden again at the
back by another pointed panel. The cor
sage was nrrunged with a yoke of upple
green velvet on which appeared three points
of the pervenche silk edged' with fringe.
The waistband was composed of the same
pretty green velvet.
Another toilet for dressy wear was in
Havana brown silk, spotted with lozenges
of white. The corsage was slightly loose
in front, finished above the bust with a
border of latticed brown chenille, over a
white satin yoke; down the center of the
empiccement tiny brown velvet bows orna
mented the front. The jupe en forme had
a broad insertion of latticed chenille show
ing the white satin beneath the bias. The
skirt was rounded and cut up in front, dis
playing a white satin under petticoat,
trimmed with tiny velvet ribbon bows.
Here we have, as you perceive, the over
skirt, and in the second instance, tbe under
petticoat or skirt of a different material and
color. White satin is used on a large ma
jority of the gowns, and it certainly gives
{The new Jacque rose red ln taffeta, cashmere or fine flannel, is the color nsed
for this French breakfast Jacket. It is for wear with a skirt of corre
sponding color.
• touch of brilliancy which is extremely ■
becoming. Another fact to be noted and re
membered is that your hat must match your
gown in color this season, to be absolutely
correct.
Here is a chic visiting toilet in the favorite
fiauve. It is of heliotrope beaver cloth,
he coat, with its long rounded tail be
hind is cut well away from the front, which
is attached to a tight-fitting vest in a light
er tone of a similar cloth, embroidered on
heliotrope and silver. Large mauve enamel
buttons ornament the sides of the coat,while
the high collar and epaulettes sre edged
with a thick niching of heliotrope chenille:
The skirt fitting well round the hips, wid
ening out to a becoming fulness at the
base, has an embroidery in mauve and sil
ver on either side of the front and around
the lower middle where the flounce would
be were it there. It is not, however. The
flare in this instance is produced by the cut
of the skirt itself. The hat accompanying
this gown is of dark heliotrope velvet, gar- ,
nished with shaded roses, a black osnrey
and a oream lace scarf, the ends of which
fall below the brim at the back.
From an artistic point of view, never
have the models displayed been in better
taste than those prepared for the season
just beginning. It is perhaps due to the
combining of two or three tones of one col
or, then adding the touch of white.
Another artistic idea is being adopted by
many leaders of fashion. It is the wearing
of hats indoors. They have decided not to
receive in their own nouses with uncovered
heads. This is to be in force, however,
only in the day time.
We all know how fond were the great
painters, in ail times, of depicting their
beautiful women in hats and headdresses.
Many a woman has found out for herself
bow much prettier she is in a becoming
hat than without it. The new off the face
toques, broad, artistically draped and bent,
forming a true frame for the face, are too
pretty to be ever taken off. One woman 1
Know says she wishes she could go to bed
in hers.
I wrote last week of the artistic em
broidery used on gowns today. Paris has
inst sent us an entire novelty in this direc
tion. On cloth costumes we find beautiful
floral sprays, but these sprays are not ex
ecuted in silk, but in cloth. The petals of
{tansies, primroses, anemones and roses
are oat out in fine cloth of different colors
and sewed to the cloth in the correct posi
tions to form the blossoms. When it
comes to the stalks and leaves the method
|s met as novel. Cloth is cut out over
white satin to form them, showing all the
▼tins of the foliage. This embroidery
tt used as borders for tunics and as orna-
JLents for the corsage.
# There is another new embroidery called
■The Richelieu. Jt is an open-work, almost
entirely covering the) material, and nothing
prettier can be imagined. I have just seen
as entire skirt of rose taffeta covered with
of open designs, executed in
rose silk, secured from point to point to the
foundation.
And now for my little lecture to the tall
snd slim. It is trim that the fashion is to
suppress the hips, and that new skirts fit
over them so tightly that no underclothing
can be worn unless it is fastened to tho
lower edge of the corset. It is true that no
gathers are permitted, and that many of
these new skirts are buttoned at the back
for at least eight inches from the waistband
down. Sometimes little satin bows take
the place of these buttons, but this makes
no difference in our contention, lt is the
principle we arc fighting for. If the tall
and slim must wear these skirts, do not do
so without wearing the hip pads which Dame
Fashion has rejected. If you only knew,
how ugly you were without the ideal curves.
Also, now that tho new sleeves are tight,
and there are no more puffs ot the top of the
arm, take advantage of the latitude allowed
in the matter of the folds which have re
placed the puffs. Have them as loose and
KB and soft as possible. And don't—if
you are tall—be afraid to wear revers, any
thing and everything to give you breadth.
That will take from your height, 1 assure
yon, ana do not indulge in dark colors un
less absolutely forced to do so. Light hues,
especially fawn, greys and stones add to
the apparent breadth, and by doing so ma
terially decrease from the (apparent)
height.
For evening wear, white and cream color,
lemon-yellow, pale bine, pale pink, pale
mauve, and any and every other shade of
dove or silver grey should be chosen in
preference to darker tones. And while 1
am upon the sr|>ject! of evening gowns, I
would mention that a V-shaped decolletage
should never be chosen by an over-tall
wearer, unless she happens to be also very
thin; and even then it will be found better
to employ a round or square cut, and fill it
in with some transparency. The reason
for this is not far to seek, since a V-shaped
bodice of necessity adds in no small degree
to the height.
To revert to gowns for day wear. The
over-tall may safely let their fancy run riot
among checks and plaids, choosing large
designs in preference to small ones. This
must not be taken to imply that I am recom
mending anything in the nature of loud pat
terns. Far from it. There are many
beautiful but quiet combinations among the
larger patterned materials, which would
be eminently suitable for tailor gowns, es
pecially just now, when plaids and tartans
of all kinds are in such favor. Perhaps you
do not believe inc. Try, and you will own
that I am right.
And novs, in closing, I must tell you thnt
we ore to carry canes. In all the fashion
able health resorts of France and Germany
this summer every pretty woman encoun
tered carried a cane in her hand. We know
how terrible wns the heat and how neces
sary was a parasol, yet it was a cane, nnd not
a parasol. More extraordinary still, com
plexions did not seem to suffer by the omis
sion. What could have been the reason?
There ore not many of them shown here as
yet, but I saw a very elegant woman carry
ing one the other day.
Concelts of Fashion
MARRIED MEN PREFERRED
Benedicts in the Navy Seem to Oet the
Best Assignments
The girl whose best young man is an offi
cer in the navy would do well to hurry up
her wedding day, for by all accounts mar
ried men get the best of it while serving
Uncle Sam at sea. Home grumbling is heard
among the bachelors assigned to colliers
which are to accompany the bntleships lowa
and Oregon on their long voyage from the
Atlantic seacoast to Manila. They insist that
1. Cashmere gown with a cream ground and oriental trimming.
2. Gown of cream wool with mauve stripes with fitted back. Mauve velvet yoke and cream lace front and trim
ming of gathered ribbon.
merchant seamen could more properly take
charge of such vessels, and that graduates
of Annapolis are out of pluce on such duty.
This is what the bachelors Bay without much
regard to" whether it is repeated or not.
What they do not suy except to their inti
mates is that there is a discrimination, a
class distinction, of which the navy depart
ment is the author and the bachelors the vic
tims. "It pays to be married in the navy,"
said one of these unfortunates. "The mar
ried fellows get the best of the assignments,
and the department seems to think it makes
no difference where the bachelors are sent."
LOS ANGELES HERALD i SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 23, IB9S
HIHGMLY DECORATIVE HOSIERY THAT BLUSES UNSEEN
There are some persons harsh enough to ar
gue that the bachelor, economically consid
ered, is a nonentity. He is, they affirm, a
drone in the sociological hive. They even go
so far us to suggest a tax on him und his
kind. This cursory examination of the
question will explain why the "soft Knaps"
go to the married men in the navy, while
duty on colliers and refrigerator bouts and
the like is apportioned to the single fellows.
The happy wife,ol a lieutenant who took
part in Cervera's overthrow says it serves
the bachelor right. "The bachelor," says
she, "refuses to share the joys and sorrows
of living with nnother; he should be made
to feel the consequences of his isolation.
The navy department is right, and if its
policy shall promote marriage in the navy it
will produce the best of results." —Chicago
Chronicle.
Mrs. Sampson a School Teacher
The career of Admiral William T. Samp
son is watched with special interest by some
Rochester people because they remember
his marriage to Miss Elizabeth Hurling, six
teen years ago. One of them relates this in
cident of the marriage as a sign that did
not fail. The carriage that was to convey
the newly wedded couple to the train was
standing in front of the house when the
driver stepped up to one of t he young women
in the bridal party, tipped Ins hat, and
gravely said:
"Would you mind rubbing Tom and Jim's
noses, miss? It's a good sign for the new
married pair."
The young woman smiled, but she did us
the driver asked her. .Jim and Tom drew
Admiral and Mrs. Sampson to the station,
and they departed from the city to take up
their home in Washington. Admiral Samp-
son was stationed in the naval observatory
there, und had already made a name for
himself. Mrs. Sampson is well known
among teachers and instructors in New
York state. The admiral's wife was at one
time an instructor in Wells college, Aurora,
where she was very popular with her pu
pils. She is proficient in modern languages
and can speak French and Spanish fluently.
At tbe coinskisiou of her instructorship at
Wells college she became a member ot the
faculty of V assar college. Just before com
ing to Rochester she was private instructor
to Miss Anita McCormick, daughter of
Cyrus McCormick of Chicago. Miss Anita
i McCormick not long afterward mnrried a
son of James (i. Blame.- New York Sun.
The Nose Does Not Show Age
Bone and cartilage enter so largely into
the structure of tiie nos;e and determine its
characteristics that it undergoes little per
ceptible change, as a rule, With the lapse ol
years. The brow becomes wrinkled and
crows' feet gather round the, eyes, which
themselves gradually grow dim as time, rolls
on; cheeks lose their bloom, which cosmetics
cannot replace, and lips their fullness and
color. Tne chin, dimpled in youth, devel
ops angularities or globularitics, as the case
may be, and the eyebrows become heavy
with the crop of many years' growth. The
nose' shows no mark comparable with these
familiar facial indications of the approach
of old age, and practically enjoys immunity
from the ravages which times makes on the
other features of.-tho face.-—Chicago Times
Heruld.
Chances of Woman's Life
An expert in vital statistics gives this ns
the result of his observations: Of 1000
women at the age of 20, 940 live ten years
more, thus 06 in 100 live ten years more and
4 do not; the chance at the age of 20 of a
woman living to the uge of 30 being, there
fore, nearly 10 to 1 in favor of living. Kim
ilarlv, of 1000 women living at the age of 30,
806 live twenty years more; so that we may
say that 80 in' 100 live to the age of 50 and
that 20 do not; the chance at the age of 30
or a woman living to the age of 50 being,
therefore, 4 to 1 in fuvor of living. Again,
of 1000 women living at the age of 00, 256
The latest evening coiffure Is a combination of the popular pompadour and
the center parting. The full effect Is produced by hair pads and rata.
The hair itself is first waved.
live twenty years more—that is, 25 in 100
live to the age of 80 and 75 in 100 do not; the
chance at the age of 00 of a woman living to
80 being 1 in 4.
Braised Beef and Macaroni
Remove the undercut from a sirloin, trim
off the fat and lard it with fat bacon. Place
two slices of bacon in a pan and on these lay
the fillet. Cut up a couple of carrots and
an onion, lay round the meat and add a
bunch of sweet herbs, two cloves and four
whole poppers. Add hulf a pint of good
stock or water. Cover the saucepan and let
the meat cook slowly until it is tender.
Place the beef on a dish and strain the
sauce, removing all fat. Thicken it and add
an ounce of grated cheese. Have ready
some boiled macaroni, mix it with, the sauce,
nnd then arrange round the beef. Garnish
with sprigs of parsley and four heaps of
boiled peas.
Girls, Remember This
Sunny living rooms are almost necessary,
according to skin specialists, for a fine com
plexion. ' One reports curing an obstinate
ease of facial eruption by removing the pa
tient, a merchant who spent His- days in a
dark office on the nortlt side of the building,
to a little partitioned nook, into which the
sun streamed all day long. The patients
on the sunny side of the hospital always re
cover first—New York Evening Post.
A Simple Cure
For Cold Feet
Before many days shall have elapsed not
a tew Ciucugu WOlUan will be auttenng from
v complaint winch makes tne shortest jour
ney out ot uoors a tenor anu tliua _ag
giuvates tiie truUPlu wlien going ulnouoTbu
comes una voidable. t old leet aie not un
common even iv wurru weather, but the sut
tellllg at such times is n.AJ, while in l?ie
lull and winter it is little less tuuu torture. A
doctor who wus consulted ou the subject
bus this to say;
"I'hysioul disorders of the most unexpect
ed nature are traceable to this complaint.
"It can be safely said that v large propor
tion of lung diseases are due to cold leet.
The blood repelled Hum the extremities goes
to the lungs and congests them. Asthma
arises from the same cause and bram and
eye troubles cuu be traced to
habitually cold feet. 1 don't suy that wo
men are wholly to blame for this aliliction,
because that is not true. 'The cause is often
traced buck to childhood, where thin stock
ings and shoes too small lor growing feet
prevented a proper circulation of the blood.
And some perhups wore garters which had
to be tight to do their duty, aud when they
reached womanhood the mischief hud been
fully doae. They were then obliged to suf
fer or, if i hey knew enough, to mitigate their
suHenng by such sensible remedies as rub
bing and warm bathing, with a proper regard
fur the covering of the feet. Wear woolen,
cotton or silk stockings, according to your
comfort. If the feet are prone to be dry as
well as cold, they should be soaked in ho*,
wnter for ten minutes every night, thor
oughly dried and rubbed with a small quan
tity of sweet oil, bestowing especiai atten
tion upon the soles, .Nothing that can keep
the feet comfortable should be considered
a trouble, as, aside from the fact of their
affecting the physical condition, their rela
tion to the nerves must be considered. Trou
ble with the feet means a nerve-wearing
strain.
"The following hag sometimes proved a
simple cure for cold feet: Stand erect and
gradually lift yourself to the tips of the
toes, coming to the natural position in the
same easy manner. Uepeat this exercise
several times each day and the circulation
of the blood must be improved. Diet has
something to do with the degree of im
provement and afflicted wpmen are advised
to shun much salted meat, pies and rich
puddings."
Remember in Cooking Vegetables
That most vegetables should be put on to
cook in fresh boiling water.
That salt should be added when they ate
about two-thirds done.
That lying in very cold water for an hour
or more wifi partially restore to wilted veg
etables quality and freshness.
That every green vegetable should be
cooked rapidly, and uncovered, to retain its
color.
That, if the water is very hard!, a tiny bit
of soda added, no larger than a pea, will make
the vegetables cooked in it tender and of bet
ter color. Ordinary water does not require
such addition.
That cooking a vegetable after it is done
toughens, darkens and detracts from its
flavor.
That when soft water is used the salt must
be in it from the first to prevent loss of flavor
and substance.
That older or staler vegetables are improv
ed by a cream or butter sauce—the basis for
the latter being the reduced liquid left when
the cooking is finished.
Beef Tea in Haste
Cut all fat and skin from about a pound
of lean, juicy beef, put it on a board and
with a strong, sharp knife scrape it quickly
so that the lean becomes a fine pulp, leav
ing only the stronger muscles unused. Have
ready a very small smicepan, put in the
pulped meat, cover with four tablespoons of
cold water, beat it with a silver fork to free
the juice, place it on the hob to heat mod
erately, while you beat the juice out of the
meat for eight minutes. Then take out the
meat with a spoon, squeezing it free of juice
in a strainer over the saucepan, allow the
beef tea to just simmer for two seconds,
when it will be ready for use. If salt is not
forbidden, a small pinch may be added to
the raw meat and cold water.
Windows Made of Oyster Shells
The square panes of translucent oyster
shells instead of glass, are a unique feature oi
offices and houses in Manila. The windows
measure on the average six feet long and four
feet wide, and contain 260 of these oyster
shell panes, which temper the fierce glare of
the sun in the building. In a country where
many people go blind from the constant
sunshiny this is n precaution very necessary
to be taken. The streets of Manila are
modern. They are perfectly straight,
macadamized and provided with ample gran
ite walks.—London News. .
11 , ,
Green
His wealth will go to a blithe young wife,
Who says she'll keep his memory green;
The old man's getting the worst of it,
In an ancient green goods game, I ween.
—Pack.
15