The herald. [microfilm reel], October 30, 1898, Page 15, Image 15

About The herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1893-1900

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
BUTTON BLOUSES
AND BODICES
1. Lavender taffeta blouse with
guipure yoke, black velvet waistband
and embroidered galloon trimming.
2. Coat bodice of brocaded otter
colored velvet with plain velvet vest.
3. Elegant bodice of uncut velvet,
ruby and cream, with bias bands of
white satin on edges; cream guipure
yoke.
Greater Than Greek
Professor Jebb made an excellent appear
ance on the congress platform and snowed
that academic pursuits need not make a
man a poor judge of affairs. Perhaps it is
to Mr. Jebb that the lfecord refers in one
of its congress "notes." He wus learning
golf, so the story runs, at St. Andrews, and
making but indifferent progress. "Why can
not I play golf ?" he inquired Of the ever
ready cuddy. "I can manage most things
pretty well." "Aye, aye," replied the caddy,
"ye ken it's no vera hard thing to teach
Greek and such like, but it takes a held to
play gowf 1 "—Pall- Mall Gazette.
A FASHIONS PAGE FOR VOTARIES
THE VERY LONG SKIRTS OF OUR MOST STYLISH GOWNS
NEW YORK, Oct. 1»4.— (Special Corre
spondence t<i The Herald.) In a recent arti
cle 1 mentioned casually that one of the
smarted combinations of the moment was
the skirt of plaid, worn in conjunction with
a plaid cloth coat, This mode has since
strengthened its hold upon our affections
to such an extent that almost every' other
well-dressed woman one now meets on
mornings is clad in a tailor-made of the
above description, TlnJ vest and the shape
of the coat may vary, but the skirt remains
the same, -lust now black and white or
black and gray combinations ure in favor.
One really very chic model of the sort had
a skirt of black and gray plaid cloth, with a
broad white line running through it. It
bore a simulated tnblier. outlined in black
\olvet, and was ,as the latest und most ex
travagant mode insists on having il. ut
least three inches longer in front than its
wearer, who, I am bound to add, seemed
at a loss to know what to do with her super
fluity of drapery. So few women there be
who carry their skirts gracefully. The coat
was a garment of exceeding brevity. It
was lined with white satin, the tiny revers
and collar being faced with white hid. When
the Wearer unbuttoned it—by the way. the
button! were also covered in white kid and
bail center* of black jet—l caught a glimpse
of a blouse of white satin much ttlcked and
adorned with motifs of black lace. These
motifs were applied so us to simulate a
Swiss belt, and, of course, had the effect of
making the waist appear considerably
smaller than it actually was. 1 wonder docs
there live a woman with poult so dead that
she does not rare what size her waist is?
i, for one, doubt it. Hill to return,
f Down the front of the blouse as far as
thi> bust line ran little bows of rather broad
black velvet ribbon, each adorned with ,\
button of pierced glass. The sleeves were
tucked; I know it, because I made so bold
as to ask; et viola tout. I have mentioned
the coal buttons of kid with the jet centers.
These reappeared on the gown uUo, for the
better adornment or security, perhaps both,
of tlu> placket hole. And as to cut, that
skirt was a veritable eelskin. Indeed, if
skirts get any tighter the fashionable wo
man of the near future will have to take her
meals standing or lying, after the mimner ot
the old Romans, for sitting down will be an
impossibility. Needless to siy, these skirt
require the most perfect cutting and fit
ting, or else a mass of unsightly wrinkles un
bound to result.
We are threatened with band-painted
cloth gowns this autumn, or so I wus in
formed when 1 paid v recent visit to a
noted Fifth avenue firm. Tims far only
dark browns, blues and greens have been so
ornamented anil most of the designs were
of a leafy character, though one very pretty
one consisted of tawny chrysanthemums
on a brown ground. Hut if these gowns take
other colors arc sure to follow in their
wake. These hand-painted robes differ
from those which have been so popular for
evening wear during the past season in that
the edges of the design arc, in every in
stance, outlined with an embroidery in
coarse silk. Whether or no they will be
come popular remains to be seen. Doubt
less the searcher after novelties will, with
out delay, make one of them her own. but
for my part I do not think a gown—be it
built never so well—of this description will
over compare favorably with the quiet ele
gance of a plain tailor-made. One merit,
however, we must concede to them. They
are not likely to become vulgarized, for the
simple reason that their shop price is pro
hibitive, although any girl who is clever
with her brush ami her needle could easily
transform v dress length of cloth and then
have it made up by a reliable tailor. Many
firms, 1 feel sure, would Consent to this if
they were allowed to supply the material.
The firm above alluded to is making a
specialty in autumn dresses built of the
new cloth; this is rep, almost poplin like
on the right side, while on the reverse it
resembles face cloth. Both are used on the
same gown. Thus one model I saw) in to
mato-red cloth had the skirl of the rep side
of the cloth, the tahlier being made 1 up on
the reverse, i. c., plain side. I may remark,
en passant, that this was piped with black
satin. The bodice was of the rep, with
levers of the face cloth also piped with black
satin and there was a tucked grille of black
satin at the neck. It was rather a smart lit
tle gown, and 1 was informed that this
c loth will in all probability be the material
of the winter season. It has certainly made
a good start, for I saw some half dozen mod
els built thereof, though on slightly differ
ent lines.
The blouse is still with us, though ele
gantes and dressmakers unite in announcing
its departure and declare that the world of
women is quite tired of it. To l>e sure, it
is no longer exactly a blouse in most cases,
but rather a separate bodice. We illustrate
quite the latest novelties in these this week.
1 know very woman who reads this will be
glad to study them and feel that a new waist
does not yet necessitate a new skirt, A skirt
now is a serious matter, and how women
ire going to manage their extraordinary
length not only in the back but at the sides
and front remains lo be seen.
Investigating new neckwear we lind that
linen collars and cuffs ate replaced by those
oi" white foulard spots or figures. They are
mounted on a stiff lining and stand washing
quite well.
lioas, which are seen so much on the
street, arc now frequently worn in the house
on chilly afternoons and evenings, and are,
of course, very becoming. The white net
ones, spotted with black, are perhaps the
daintiest of all. Nearly everything in the
neckwear line, whether of net, taffeta or
inousseline de soic, is edged with narrow
ribbon put on plain or gathered. t'a»rade
knots 0* lace, dotted with crimsonf OT gold
spangles, are new and very beautiful. Never
has so much fancy lingerie been employed
for ladies' neckwear.
THE NEW RIBBONED TRIMMED NECKWEAR
LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 30, 1898
! lo revert to gowns, let me tell you of an
exquisite confection hailing from Paris and
intended for autumn wear. This was ot pale,
biscuit-colored face cloth. '1 he skirt was of
a generous cut as to length, but tight with a
marvelous tightness from the waist to the
knees; thence it lluted outwards and was
adorned by innumerable 1 rows of machine
Sticking. Of upper garments this model
possesses no less than three, in addition to a
shirt. First there was a coat, then came a
tight-fitting bodice; lastly there appeared
a long driving coat with glorious lapels and
deep pockets. I wonder what there is in ,1
deep pocket.that the average woman should
lind it so enticing a thing?
We will take the coat first. This, open
The toque is the success of the season. The upper left-hand model of almond velvet has gold embroidery
and black wings. The upper right-hand creation of brown cloth has a wide border of sable and two wings. The
lower left-hand is another example of the fur-trimmed headwear. It is of white cloth, gold embroidered, and
marten fur. The last is a jetted toque with diamond buckle and paradise aigrette.
fronted, had a long-tailed basque rounded ell
(rout the hips In the most approved fashion,
and riglit round its mtiie length went four
lows of that marvelous machine stitching in
■ilk of its own hue, A deep rounded collar
glared it at the back, and in front it boasted
square revers. < arh and all machine stitched.
The ruffs were small gauntleted ones, also
machine stitched, and it was lined through
out with black and white cheeked silk, the
«ame silk going to fashion the blouse, which
of necessity was to be worn with it, the
coat being open-fronted.
There was nothing remarkable about the
blouse. Of course it was tucked, front
nnd buck and sleeves, but a pretty touch of
color was introduced by v big bow of cerise
silk placed exactly underneath the chin. I
must own to liking that bow immensely.
The bodice, which comes next in the order of
things, was severely plain, pointed buck and
front, and tight titling. A scroll-like de
sign in line silk braid ran up anil down on
either side of the front and round the plain
high collar band, this latter rejoicing m an
inner linen collar and a bow of white silk
by way of liuish. The driving coat was BX
aetly what a driving coal should be—of a
sael< shape and linen throughout with silk
of its own hue, which, though it was of ex
ceeding thinness, yet added materially to
the warmth of the garment In question. 1
think I have already said that the materia!
•
composing the gown under consideration
wus of a very lighi make of face cloth. Hut
to go on, the sleeves were of the coat shape,
hut sufficiently large to admit of their being
■lipped comfortably on over another coat it
need be. They terminated in deep cull's of
their own material, beautifully stitched.
The lapels were broad and machine stitched,
and there were four pockets, two on each
side, with machine stitched "lids." Apro
pos, too of this stitching, it also went the
entire round of the coat, even the hem bear
ing its four rows a little less than three
quarters of an inch apart. A charming
hat hadj'been provided for wunr with tho
open-fronted coat and blouse. This was of
checked straw and velvet in black and'
white. There was a niching ami fan
shaped bows of the checked silk employed
to fashion the blouse, a plume of black
feathers at the side, and, I suppose by way of
Carrying out that note of cerise, just under
the chin, ut the back, a big bunch of cher
ries of just that precise hue.
Talking of a splendid bat naturally brings
one to the subject of headgear. There is
not much that is new as regards the shape
of these. Toques have it all their own way,
and a very pretty way it is, too. As to the
trimmings, odd as it may sound, flowers are
to be fashionable garniture for our forth
coming felts. These have already made
their appearance in Paris, and are catching
on, so, of course, we are, I suppose, bound
to receive them here with open arms.
HOUSEHOLD HINTS
l!a\v cabbage is much more digestible
than when cooked. A cabbage salad made
from a raw, fresh and crisp head of cabbage
and served with a French dressing is much
improved if garlic is rubbed in the bowl
from which it is served.
The inexperienced housekeeper offers can
taloupes cut in halves ami filled with ice.
They should instead be piled on shredded
ice, and onFy innvleratcly chilled, not served
halt frozen, as is) often the case. The ice
soaks them with water and destroys then
flavor,
A cold tomato sauce excellent for cold
meats is maefce from peeled whole tomatoes
from which the seeds are. pressed out. The
tomatoes are then chopped and afterwards
strained, the .mixture put in a bowl and
Masoned with salt, a little onion juice,
lemon juice, of cayenne, and a little
olive oil.
The use of peppercorns in lieu of ground
pepper is to be recommended, Thrown into
a soup or stew or simmer of any kind, they
produce the fluwor without any digestive
irritation. The conns, as they are called,
are simply the (train or berry oi tin; plant
before being gro.and to the pulverized pep
per ot commerce.
Peaches served in the French way are
cooked. They nt« halved and the stones
taken out before being put over the tire to
boil in sugar and water. A quart of Water
and eight tablespotonfails of sugar is the
proper proportion to a dozen peaches. When
the sugar and water has boiled, the peaches
ure added and the tluiil brought to a boil a
second time. Before taking from the lire
a little more sugar is milled, about half as
much as the first put m, together with the
juice ot a lemon. Ihey are then set away
in the dish to cool.
A medical journal advises against the ex
cessive use ot salt. It $8 first ot all a perver
sion of taste, ile- condiment destroying the
flavor ot delicate disbjea ii too pronounced.
Furthermore, it is asserted that an exces
sive use of suit seriously overtaxes the kid
neys to remove it, and that many eases of
derangement and dißextsc are due to ibis ex
cessive use. The salt habit, it is added, is
easily acquired, and persons indulging them
selves soon reach a point where nothing is
palatable that is not strongly impregnated
with salt.
The secret of washing well any woollen
goods lies chiefly in having the different
waters of equal temperature with none oi
them ut any time too hot to put the hand
in comfortably. Soap should not be rubbed
on the article, but used in the form of thin
suds. It should be good, white soap, too.
A little borax is probably the best thing
to soften the water. Tor washing blankets
or baby flannels it is to lie preferred, Wool
en should not be wrung by the hand, but
rinsed or dried by squeezing. Woolens of any
sort should never be allowed to freeze.—
New York Evening Post,
A woman's club in one of the smaller New
England cities brings itsclt quickly and
practically in touch with the public schools
by ottering a prize to the pupils of the high
school tor the besi essay upon a given sub
ject. For the first prize competed for last
year the topic wus the colonial KTstory ot
this particular state, and the interest taken
in the contest proved its popularity, The
same club also has on one afternoon of the
season a teachers' day, to which ull the
teachers of the school ure invited, a spec
ial social entertainment being provided ior
them. The idea is to establish friendliness
between the schools, both among the pupils
and touchers.
The young housekeeper buying her outfit
lof table linen will find it an econonly to
1 provide a generous supply of tray cloths and
carvels' cloths. These ior general use need
not be embroidered, and arc preferable, in
deed, of hemstitched finish or fringed. They
aie a genuine saving to the large cloth be
neath, and, being much more easily laun
dered, can be renewed with great frequency.
It is the practice of an old housekeeper, who
is an adept at line hemstitching, to cut up
the best parts of a tine tabltcoth which
shows signs of wear into a set of cloths.
Where the art of such decoration is un
acquired, the cloth may be neatly hemmed
and finished with an edge of linen torchon.
Brown Tomato Sauce
Fry one onion, cut it in rings in an ounce
of dripping, when browned stir in an ounce
of browned (lour; when this is very dark
without being burnt, add half a pint of stock,
leaving the sediment left over from the gravy
soups, stir, and boil five minutes. Take the
sauce off the fire, add a tablespoonful of to
mato sauce, a teaspoonful of anchovy, half a
wineglass full of sherry, pepper, salt and a
pinch of cayenne. Wring this through a
tammy cloth, heat up, and pour around the
cutlets.
Brown Bread Ice Cream
The brown bread ice cream is properly
made the effect is as if the ice cream was
Bprinkled through with finch- chopped, well
flavored nuts. Break into bits enough brown
bread to lill a pint measure, dry in the oven;
while hot crusnwith the rolling pin and run
through the flour sifter, .lust before taking
the dasher from the freezer, before the con
tents are hard, stir in the crumbs. This
ailows for a quart of cream. Home-made
w hole wheat bread is also excellent for the
purpose. —London Star.
To Waterproof Paper
Make two preparations, one consisting of
alum two ounces and castile snap three
ounces, dissolve in a pint of water:tneother
of half an ounce of gum arable and an ounce
of blue, dissolved in a pint of water. Then
mix the two, warm slightly over the fir.c and
pour some of the preparation into a large,
flat dish, or a tin tea tray. Place single
sheets of white paper in the fluid until satur
ated, then hang up to drain and dry.
FOR WEAR WITH
SEPARATE SKIRTS
1. Old rose silk bodice, the front
cut into two loops on each side; fitted
vest and cuffs of striped silk, and
2. Coat bodice of violet cloth with
bias bands of velvet; vest of brocaded
silk and velvet cravat.
3. Ruby silk blouse with velvet
collar and trimming of fancy galloon.
Cinnamon and Microbes
There was. perhaps, more virtue in our
grandmothers' yarb tea" than we have been
willing to admit. At any rate various forms
of it are now and again authorised by phy
sic ians, the latest thing being the old-fash
ioned cinnamon tea, which used to be admin
istered on any and all occasions. Cinna
mon is said to be inimical to microbe life, and
decoctions and essences made from it are be
ing tried as a preventive of the spread of chol*
era, typhoid fever ami like germ discuses.
Those nursing diphtheria patients are ad
vised to gargle the throat with essence of
cinnamon and alcohol in water. Just how
valuable this advice is remains to be proven,
but it can do no harm to try it.
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