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Los Angeles herald. (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, July 30, 1905, Image 34

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85042462/1905-07-30/ed-1/seq-34/

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FASHIONS in millinery grow eccen
tric as the season advances, and
though in many Instances they
have been modified from the first styles
that were Introduced, none the less do
they appekr remarkable as regards size,
shape and coloring. If possible, the
shapes are smaller than ever, perched
on the head at a most extraordinary
angle, and often showing half of the
? crown of the head and of course the
entire head at the back.
.The posing of the hat at the correct
;; angle is one of the tricks of the trade,
I and is most difficult to accomplish sat
i isfactorily by the ordinary individual.
:; The"; hat' made to *turn";*p" directly at
.one side is, by the unknowing, so placed
on: the head that It turns up directly
; at the back or in front, making a singu
•lar line from the point of .the. brim to
the chin of the wearer. /As hats have
I been named* eccentric this absurd mis
take is often, made and carried out with
quiet. unconcern under the guise of be
ing the very height of fashion.
.Flowers In great quantities are used,
although even now in midsummer there
are more stiff wings to be seen on smart
; hats than has been the fashion for
many a long year. Flowers are put
on : the top of the hat, massed under
the brim on the side and at the back,
and the coloring is exquisite in most
instances, different shades being com
bined most artistically, and different
colors also.
The massing of the roses or any
flowers under the brim requires rather
careful treatment to make the hat be
coming, but none the less the fashion
is an attractive one if a becoming shade
of color is chosen. It is Just far enough
from the face to enhance the beauty of
the complexion and give more color. If
color be needed, and altogether la one
of the reasons why this year's millinery
seema to be so unusually popular.
Some Favorite Models
The. Empire, Continental. Incroyable
and the always popular picture hat are
all favorite models, while the old time
sailor, the conservative little turban
and the never falling to be fashionable
toque also find favor with the multi
tude. The polo turban has not had &
long life— that is. the eccentric shapes
thereof, or, to speak more correctly,
the' eccentric sizes. The minute mill
box perched at one side of the bead or
worn forward over the face was too
stiff and uncompromising, with more
than a hint of rakishness, to make it
becoming, and the style almost imme
diately became too pronounced and
marked' to be refined enough for fash
ion's approval.
Both fine and coarse straw are to be
Been in midsummer hats, in black,
white, ecru and all colors. The all
black hat is difficult to find in good
shapes or on anything like conservative
lines, and the fashion now seems to
be rather for the black hat trimmed
with color, the color being Introduced
In the bows of ribbon, the stiff wings
or I the flowers that are used. There
never were so many black hats
trimmed with bright wings as are
seen even, at midsummer, when black
hats of this description are supposed
tOjbV.la.id away for a time. J* Q
'j'he sailor hat is now no longer seen
plain excepting as a riding . hat, but
with a broad round crown and narrow
brim,' it is trimmed with flowers and
velvet ribbon until there is very little
of the rytglnal model to be seen. The
nower^are put . around the crown or
at j^fe side tn a stiff cockade effect,
Hiu/ then are massed again under the
brim, the most incompatible colors
apparently being oombined. A dark
blue bat trimmed with 'two or three
fhudtiu of blue* or cornflowers has
pink roses and purple lilacs mlxad,to
gether, and oddly enough the . little
touch of purple seems most harmo
Best for Midsummer
A violet colored straw, trimmed with
masses of violets in different shad-
Ings, has also a spray of large crimson
roses under the brim at the side and
one rose of the same on the top of th<>
hat. The shading and coloring of this
hat are most attractive, and although
In the description It sounds conspic
uous, in reality it Is not so, but is very
smart and becoming. _____ \: \'•
;. i -'■ ; >■» ii ii ■"*-■ •> i
The. fine straws are , exceedingly fine
and llgfit In welglii. Tfie fancy, straws
axe jati}er_ v coarse^ and [ tire supposed
to be rather heavy. The crln in all
shades is really the best material of
all for midsummer, ' the only trouble
being that so many milliners wire the
shapes too much, thus making them
heavy and stiff. In pale yellow and
white are some charming shapes in the
erin, trimmed with pink roses, which
look extremely summerlike and ef
fective with the dainty muslin, chiffon
or silk gowns.
The shapes are without end in variety
and effect and the curious curved
angles that are obtained by the blend
ing of the brim give a marked indiv
iduality to each hat. Indeed, there
never waa a year when there was so
much individuality in millinery. Given
the same shape to start with, the same
color and every detail precisely alike,
and yet no j two hats appear the same.
Whether the hat is becoming to the
profile is now, fortunately, Just as
much studied as whether the full face
or the back is becoming. This is one
reason for the individuality, for the
hats then appear suited to each and
every wearer, rather than. like one of
a whole lot turned out on the same
Feathers are always fashionable, and
while for the moment the stiff wings
and the dowers are used in perhaps
greater quantity , some of the most
beautiful hats of the season are often
trimmed with both long and short os
trich plumes, arranged in the fashion
that has been popular for so long a
time— one long feather around tins
crown, a pompon at the side, and under
the brim at the left or back a cluster
of tips arranged to fall down on the
Such a hat as this is either of white
or some pale color. The tips are in
Wonderful Evolution in the Condition of the Women Who Work
((TTTHEIJ we first began to in
yy terest ourselves in the con-
dition of the working
woman," said Miss Doheny, chap
lain of the Young Women's Chris
tian association of New York, "she
was not the woman she Is today
—the blight, intelligent, sometimes
Intellectual woman who Is often so
well able to help herself that she
needs little or no assistance. She wai
the* scrub' woman, If you please, prone
on' her knees the livelong day, the wo
man, who cleaned the window pants
so the sun could come in— the washer
woman. Today you, the newspaper
woman, are called a working woman,
are you not?"
, The reporter admitted it.
"Then." resumed Miss Doheny, "you
would have acorned the name. When
we took the working woman in hand
we did »o more, to help the impover
ished gentlewoman of both north and
south than anything else. 8b« was
practically helpless— not only helpless,
color a shade deeper that the straw,
or If the hat be white then the feathers
are in some light, effective coloring
that accords with the gown with which
it is worn. The all pink or blue hats
of this description are charmingly ef
fectlve with. gowns of the same color.
Strangely enough, there are not many
all white hats this year made on thase
lined, some touch of color always being
Introduced in flowers, feathers or
ribbon. ,
Lace and Lingerie Effects
White lace hats combined, with lin
gerie are most beautiful, and the' lin
gerie hats are very effective. Flowers
are used on these again and also rib
bon. Indeed, the fashion would seem
to dictate that simplicity must be
avoided at all odds, as there must be
at least two materials in any smart
headgear. Floral decorations (it is im
possible to call them anything else) of
all kinds are used to excess on the
midsummer hats, and while many of
the flowers are true to nature, there
are many extraordinary varieties of
flowers that would make it difficult for
any botanist to label them correctly.
Both large flowers and Bmall ones
but proud as Lucifer, particularly the
gentlewoman of the south.
"It was necessary that she do some
thing for her living, but she -would dr.
nothing that in any way lowered her
dignity. The only course left open to
her in that early day, then., was to
teach, no matter how badly she taught.
The result was that the supply ex
ceeded the demand and there were al
most more teachers than there were
pupils. She thought it beneath her to
go out as shop woman or stenographer
pr to earn her. bread in the divers and
sundry ways', that the working woman
has now of earning hers. She must do
It in a genteel manner or starve.
"Now, as you know, this reeling is
done away with. There Is at the pres
ent day no limit to the possibilities of
the working woman, and there is noth
ing honorable in the way of work that
the Is ashamed to put her hand to do.
"I am proud to say that we have
helped largely toward the culmination
of this state of, things.
"From the first we have don* our best
are In fashion. The ridiculously minute
roses and tiny wreaths are as fashion
able as ever, while the large roses and
sprays are equally popular. The tiny
hat that made its appearance In. the
spring, the one resembling an Inverted
saucer— not large enough to be digni
fied by the name of soup plate— is Just
as fashionable as it was. This has a
to aid her, and, above all, we have re
frained from wounding her sense of
pride by dubbing her i 'these women.'
To us she is and has always b*en 'this
woman/ the individual workingr wo
man, entitled to our respect, and re
ceiving it. ,■ '
"And yet, working quietly, without
blare of trumpets, we have somehow
lagged behind in the race. Among the
multitudinous charities which blazon
themselves abroad In the land we are
practically unnoticed. When we are
noticed we are wondered at. Those who
see it are amazed at the up-to-date
nature of pur work in this Institution—
the great artist* who now and then
come to examine the work of our pu
pils, the doctors, the light* of the- lit
erary world.
"There is a, reason for all this, and
after due consideration, I have begun
to believe that it U on account of our
name. 'It makes against us.
"It .it strange, but true, that the
word • Christianity appears with the
wide awake people ot . the world .who .
wreath i of roses on the top of tho
crown and at the back where, the brim
turns up from the head sharply, leav
ing often the top of the head exposed,
there are two or three wreaths ot
these same i roses nestling In a bed of
tulle. ,
. As has been said, with many hats
the correct angle makes a great dlf
are up and doing to stand for retrogres
sion, fqr. narrowmlndedneas, lor every
possible tiling that is opposed to the
progress of the world, particularly no
_f ar as womeV are concerned. Person •
ally, I believe that St. Paul's charge to
woman that she keep still In meeting
has retarded her progress for centuries;
but In spite of the fact that It is not
always the deeply Christian woman
who does the most talking now, the
ban should not reach bo far as the
present day, and does not. Though the
Christian woman Is doing her ' work
perhaps more , quietly, permitting her
left hand to ' know somewhat less of
what her right hand Is doing than her
more worldly and brilliant slater, eh«
1* nevertheless keeping up fairly well
with the progress of the time*. And
yet, as I cay, when these great men
visit vi, they are amazed that we
should employ , the best teachers for
our classes, that we should pay them
the. price* wej do, ; that they should
teach bo w ell. ,
"And whlla we are awe In the heart.
ference in effect, and with these shapes
especially does it make all the dif
ference in the world. Seen in the show
case or held in the hand such hats
are ludicrous caricatures and alto
gether impossibilities. Perched on the
head at Just the right angle they are
effective and becoming— that is, if they
are becoming at all. There are some
faces to which this style of hat is
absolutely impossible . and makes the
wearer thereof look twenty years older
than she ehould — one reason, perhaps,
why that style of hat is not chosen
so rashly as many ot the others. .
. In midsummer iV is generally sup
posed that the hats, which are to be
, found are great bargains. Undoubtedly
there are great bargains to be found by
careful inspection of the showcases at
the milliner's, but there 1b also at this
time of year an Immense amount of left
over material that . it is Just a* well
to avoid. The altogether too eccen
tric, that the general public has re
fused to invest in. IB to be had , at
very low prices, but. although eccen
tricity In millinery Is one of the fads
of the times, there is the impossible
eccentric which should be avoided like
the plague and not bought simply ba
of the city, New Tork rarely hears of
us. You, for example. This Is the first
time you have been . in our place. Isn't
it?" \
"It is," said tha reporter. '
"I suppose . I shall have to forgive
you." concluded Hies Doheny, "but it
does seem Incredible. I fancy when
you walked by and saw , our < elgn : of
'Young Women's Chriattan association'
you thought 'Oh veil, that is some aort
of church sociable or strawberry festival
affair, 1 and passed us by. You are not
the only one.' If this it the first tlm»
you have ever been here you know
nothing then of our classes. The school
for the year is closed. Next week we
—or rather I. for this is my Individual
work— begin my summer school. Every
evening of the week these rooms are
open to the girls of the association for
the pleasant passing of their time. We
have concert!,' dramatic recitals, flower,
parties, clause* in' physical culture* In
fancy work, in' embroidery, shirt wai«V
making." and millinery, all absolutely
*ree.'« ' .-
cause it has been marked down to some ,
absurdly low figure.
Light Colors Lead . ■ < '
On the other hand, the demand for.^
new . hats Is constantly heard on all -
sides, as there are a great many women 8
who want to put their millinery in order v
a third or fourth time for some pro
jected visit or trip In midsummer and/
who require the best of everything.
These I women are . the ones who keep .
all fashions up to date and who" do- ■
mand something new and attractive '
every month in the year. The best mll-^
liners realize this and can always fur
nish some charming confection.
Just for the moment the light and
airy effects are the ones most in de- ,
mand, and these hats are not so exor
bitant in price as they would have' been' 1 ;
earlier in .' the summer, for, by mid-j?.i
summer begins the time when autumn 's
fashions are much more to be thought:
of. The white and light colored erin ■ .'•
hats, the light straws in fancy effects,
and the lingerie hats are consequently
the ones that are most in demand at
the present moment. • ■ :,....::
' In the lingerie effects there is an '
Immense variety, for not only are enj-x'
broidery and lace used, but there 'are |
no end of smart hats of this, kind made
up In chiffon and maline, which are •
exquisitely dainty, not especially, per- ■' ;
tenable, and looking as though they [
were expressly designed for this time
of year, which undoubtedly they are.'
The self-same shapes and very much' '
the same style of trimming: are : used
for grown people and children, and
aggressively simple hats are quite the
fad in this style— aggressively . simple ;
when- : viewed ..from ,a ; child's ' poin(;,,ptj '
vjew. , , because., ,the ,< phlldren's* hats, ji% ,
today are more or . less elaborate and ,"
very much trimmed. .
A touch of pale color Is* by far. the;
best with hats of this description; Dark
colors '. do not look well, as the. con- r
trast is too strong to be effective, and,
consequently pale pinks, yellow, etc.,
are used instead of dark shades or
deep purples, such as were seen on, \
hats Intended for earlier in the season
and as will be seen later again In the
autumn. .■■:.. v - .v
Pastel Shades In Millinery
■ What are known as pastel shades are
extremely smart for hats at this time;,
of year. The very pale grays ; and ;
tans to be worn with muslin or chiffon,
gowns of the same coloring : are very '
dainty and gossamerllke in appearance.,
These hats are generally made of the
crln and trimmed with ostrich plumes ■
and tips of the same shade. ... Often
there is no relief of color whatever,
and yet occasionally a touch of color Is '
Introduced in some flowers that are
put in at the back under the \ brim or '
on top of the" hat at the side , with ;
the feathers. . ■ ;.,"..
When . it is possible to wear a gown
and hat all of one shade of this very
light tint it. is rather ,] smarter; not to
have, the contrast in, color, 1 but -It, }•
not always becoming, and then a better
effect is obtained by some white in the
trimming of the dress around the throat
or in a little touch of color in the. hat.
A combination tha,t is always fash*
ionable and always unusual is ■: yellow
with gray— a pale ■ yellow and , a pale
shade of gray. This brings out color-,
me effectively and makes it at once
unusual. The color can be obtained In
a hat of this description either by the
feathers used or by, the flowers, v ; A
yellow rose or two nestled In with pale
gray tips on a hat that Is trimmed
with tulle is charming In coloring and
very . becoming. N . ;-;■
It would seem as though this at- ■
tention to detail In coloring and ma
terial were carried almost to too great ,
a point, and yet so much now depends
upon it that it has to be thought over
very carefully.,. It is claimed that 'one '\
reason why the fashions of the moment .'
seem so much more finished than they
ever have before is because the question,
of what Is becoming Is much inure.',
thought of than was formerly the case.'
Not That Kind
Morlarty— Fhwai's this here , Romar .' •
punch they're goln' to Introduce at th 1 '
banquet tonight?
Mulvaney— Some sort, ay woman's,;
tipple, I'm towid. phwat do yea'want .
to know | for?
Moriarty— l thought it moight.be".
some new uppercut, bedad.—Plttsbur* -
11l Luck Averted
"My dear," said Mrs. Spenders, by
way of preliminary, ■ '.'would i you : con
sider an opal unlucky?"
"I would If I, got a bill for, one and
had to nay for it," began ' her v hut*
band sternly.
"Qhl" . the interrupted. 'Jl'vn io glad
I ordered a diamond instead."— Cathpllo

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