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FALL HAT FASHIONS
AND BIRD SLAUGHTER AS the autumn appears we who may chance to look over "signs of the , times" can see the war recommencing between the gilded world and the gray, between the but terflies and the working ants, the sing ers of songs and the diggers of trenches. Busiest and most unpreten tious Is the crusade waged by the Au dubon society against the murder and mutilation of our flying' things to adorn, first, the Fifth avenue milliner's windows; sfecond, the pages of fashion able papers, and, finally, the well dressed hair of smart women. The Audubon society is neither very old nor very rich in this world's goods, and its struggle is the more notable through the utter unselfishness of the officers and members of the association, who give their labor for love and with a freedom and zeal which few officials In other societies have been known to bestow on theirs. The president of the association, William Dutcher, gives hla services— and they are many— gratis, and all the officials consider it a matter of pride as well as of duty to pay as many of the society's expenses as pos sible out of their own pockets. Such j loving Industry and disinterestedness could hardly fail to win a certain suc cess. But how definite and how far reaching has this success been? The movement began tentatively in 1883 in editorials here and there lament- Ing the vast slaughter of birds for milliners. It was in that year that the now famous editorial in Forest and Stream was printed, in which the writer began: "The milliners now de mand the breasts and wings of swal lows for decorating ladles' hats. To supply the call thousands of these birds are being killed by agents of the mil linery taxidermists." The various men of Influence and position took the matter up and after a slow evolution through several minor and transitory organizations, and by the incidental ■work of the Ornithologists' union, the Biological survey and other depart ments and institutions the actual Au dubon society was born. Legislation came hard In those days, ANIMALS OF FASHION BLACK swans and black sheop are respectively the birds and beasts of excessive fashion this year. Over the lakes and lawns of country places where an extensive acreage Is kept under cultivation they are lending themselves to artistic and decorative effects. They are useful also in provid ing a subject for conversation, as do other popular beauties. To get together a number of black swans Is not a difficult matter, since those that are here seen are the Aus tralian birds, the natural color of which Is black. Indeed, although the meta phor of Horace, "a rare fowl on this earth, most like to a swan that is I black," made the black swan a token of the Impossible for about eighteen hun dred years. It was early learned by explorers to Australia that they were among the country's most striking and beautiful Inhabitants. While it can hardly be said that black swans are delicate pets, their care before they have become thoroughly ac climated is a little difficult. A case is known where a pair of them brought from Australia to this country did not have any eggs until they had been here three years. Then, following their nor mal habit the eggs were laid on Janu ary 1. The winter was most severe, yet, according to the calendar it was | the time of the Australian spring. Six I cygnets were hatched and throve lustily despite the Intense cold. ,", It : Ja ; not generally known in this country that black swans have white wings, for nearly, always they are pin ioned here, and we never see them fly- Ing.'. When' they are allowed this privl . lege ■ their plumage shows 'out r as of -ebon and : . Ivory.' ' It is, "of "course,' not j necessary to have more than a pair 'of and indeed it was only a few years ago that the Audubon society was able to pass Its bills all over North America making It a penal offense to kill wild birds for nny purpose other than for eating. First one state would be caught and held by the Intrepid littlo band which had constituted Itself the protectors of the song birds and nea birds of the countryi then another. Now the chain Is so complete and so strong that the wise milliner if sho must have birds upon her hats imports them. If she uses American birds she Is In great danger of arrest. "We like to avoid the legal enforce ment of this requirement If possible," said Mr. Dutcher yesterday, "for, natu rally, we would much prefer to succeed through the public Itself rather than through any compulsory measures. We wish to make our appeal to the women of America so strong that there will be no need of arrests or even of the now essential watchfulness of our officials. But, just the same, where the necessity arlseß we are quite willing to go to the courts. I myself brought suit against a big department storo here in New York only a very short time ago. It had a carload of hats trimmed with our prettiest song and sea birds. * No, they were not Imported; they were American. Did I win the suit? They didn't wait to see. They paid up their legal fine In order to prevent the affair having any pub black swans to give the catchet of smartness to a country place, only in the event of an accident happening to one the other is left rather lonely. The custom therefore seems to prevail to have one male bird and two females, the latter being the more delicate. It Is no particular breed of black sheep which, according to the height of the mode, are now seen nibbling on the lawns of country places. These flocks are composed entirely of the proverbial black sheep, one of which is said to appear in every flock of snow white ness. They have been taken one by one from their spotless companions; some times for miles about the flocks are searched for their black members. A flock so started is not then difficult to Increase. The lambs. In compliment to both the ewe and dam, are Usually born black. For their artistic effect, keeping the lawn down, and perhaps their flesh, such a flock of sheep is desirable. Their wool, however, is practically valueless, as It is Incapable of taking any dye. Some owners of black sheep have It woven undyed nevertheless Into cloth, when it comes out a rich golden brown, suitable for making up Into golf or other sporting suits. It is In the Bprlng that a flock of black sheep appears most beautiful. Then they are very black. Later the suns of mid-summer scorch their wool till their backs look a rusty, reddish brown. Mr. Charles Darwin was a theorist concerning black sheep, and believed that the appearance of a . dark colored or piebald one in a flock. was due to reversion to the primeval coloring', of the* species. . .;. LOS ANGELES HERALD SUNDAY SUPPLEMENT." llclty, and the hats were suppressed. "Our society is the only duly organ ized and Incorporated body that Is doing anything to preserve the wild animals and birds In our country. "We believe that If It were not (or our efforts In keeping our work before the public all the time the use of plumage and the consequent destruction of Ufa would be just as high in a few years— in a very few years — as it was when the reformatory movement first started. Juvenile Allies "Oh, yes, we are gaining ground steadily. Our legislation and our con trol over the milliners who sell Amer ican made hats show that. All over the country are small branch societies, little bird clubs, and local institutions; on these as well as upon our more gen eral efforts we build our faith. Above all we hope for much from the chil dren. No reform can ever be accom plished except through the generation that is just coming up, that is still young enough to receive indelible Im pressions and atmospheric convictions. We have agents all over the United States teaching, appealing, enrolling new members, and showing the Ignor ant the beauty and Interest and won der of bird life and trying to arouse thought in the thoughtless. "Much of our work is done purely for love of it, and with honest enthusiasm, for we are not one of those bodies on which great legacies or gifts are be stowed. The funds are small and we must make up the balance in good will. That we consider a civic duty, for there Is work to be done by every man for the betterment of existing con ditions." Mr. Dutcher is an ornithologist, as are many officials under him, and 'he has written a great deal about the life and peculiarities of birds. .."V. TV <; So all over America the Audubon wardend stand . on guard over their feathered charges. No coast but has Its sentinels, keeping sharp lookout, especially during breeding season, to see that no molesting gun comes to Invade the sea birds' breeding colonies. These wardens are authorized to ar rest any one shooting a gull or other ocean bird on sight and they are re nowned for fulfilling their duties to the letter of the law. Guy Bradley, one of the Audubon wardens, was killed at Oyster Key, Fla., last July, while making an ar rest. He lived in an isolated place and had few comfortß,. but he loved the rooks which he was placed there to protect, and patrolled the swampy land with never abating enthusiasm and fidelity. ■ A group of rook killers con cerned ■ in ,'• the , secret traffic of 4 . bird plumage shot I him 'In order to ■ kill ' as many birds as they liked. They suc ceeded, and only one of the band has yet been caught. He, it Is pleasant to note, will suffer the full penalty of the Florida law. ■ "And let fowl multiply In the earth. 1 ' saith the Book of Books —and it is not untimely to remember that ancient injunction today, when the feathered flocks are in such severe danger at the hands of our women of fashion and their cat's-paws, the hat makers. ■/ - ;'. . ' '■•■'.■ There is a. certain little milliner who makes no stir and does not send round cards for an '"opening 1 * every eeasbn, but she contrives to keep Just a whis per ahead of the fashions, and In her big back room you will flnd, m discreet cases for the delectation of the elect, day after tomorrow's styles in French headgear. "Less bird trimming!" she exclaims If you question her this season con- ON THE BANDS The sands have shifted since we met; The dunes are higher now; . . Low fly the gulls along the shore; High towers the billow's brow. The gulls fly seaward, whence they came Free from the phantom hands Outstretched to blot the name I love That's written In the sands. > The sands have shifted since we met; The dunes— a grave to me Where buried is a life's, regret— ■ A memory of the sea. -. ■; ■•;. • — WALTER BE) VERLHY CRANE. cernlng the matter. "Less? No! No! More! More! It is frightful! It would break one's heart if a milliner per mitted herself anything so unbusiness like as a broken heart! The poor little dead bodies, the beautiful cut off wlngf, the soft breasts and the aigrettes. Never, never since I have made hats, and that, as all the world knows, is many, many years, have I seen so many feathers used as In this season! But It will pass, mark you; It must pass! We are not Hottentots, to dress forever in scalps and skins!" ' The average society woman will not stop to consider what her whim for a blue breast or a pair of snow white wings Involves. She is far from cruel Is my lady, and would stepiout in tho mud any rainy day to pick up a dying kitten— that is, unless, she happened to be. late to a luncheon, In which case the kitten must take Its chances. She has even been known to < telephone , to the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals to send some one to look out for a dog with Its leg half off, lying In her area. If. however, the dog ambulance falls to materialize She will merely declare that the society is abominably lax, and when she goes out In her brougham a bit later and the dog Is still there she will speak severely about It to the but ler. No, my lady Is not cruel; she Is only thoughtless. Convince her oftha brutality of the method of obtaining the aigrette which she has In her hair and she will be shocked, but It will never . cross her mind to, throw the aigrette away. Her argument 1b con clusive—to - herself— which is . the most one may hope of any argument, after all." ■<■; ■■', •../• ■■ ■_ ;;•• ' .:. " "I would not dream of having > any birds killed for me," she declares, "but since they are dead already/ why shouldn't I buy one at my; milliner's? You. see I need that yellow bird with the mottled breast to go with my new concert afternoon gown. I'm, not hurt ing any birds. Dear little things, I'd never, dream of such a thing!" '•,':- ~..- And she buys the hat quite happily and complacently, and wears It, look ing like an angel. Tlils form of unreason, peculiarly annoys Mr. Dutcher. "It's a Brahmli\ standpoint!" he says, hotly. /"They won't kill meat to eat themselves,' but they'll eat any ' amount of it If some one else does the killing for them!!' 9 Insects Needed Training Customer (handing over the money) —"I want to be sure about It. Can you guarantee that • this stuff will kill ' off the cockroaches?" Druggist '.(wrapping 1 up . the bottle)— "l .'guarantee /it abso lutely, ma'am— if you can get -them to take it according to directlons."^Chi c'ag'o" Tribune.' GREAT S7JR IN THE AUDUBON' pocmirovEß the demand cor WNGS, FEATOERAAm AIGRETTES for ladies mm. H^jr 4f SPREAD OF THE FROTEXHIVE LAW. NEW SILK PETTICOATS AT last long, becoming lines, for. both waist and skirt, are return- Ing to popular favor this season, and in this change of fashion comes untold relief to the average woman. It is a difficult task even for the slight est to wear becomingly any exagger atedly wide girdle and the short, bar rel shaped skirt. This season, how ever, while loose lines are still seen, the folds of the material must hang grace fully, and now again all skirts fit sungly over the hips, although there is still plenty of flare about the feet. With this new regard for close fit and flare combined particular attention I must needs be given to see that the | underskirt is made more carefully even | than the dress itself. With a walking I skirt especially so much depends up on the .fit and hang of the lining or petticoat that It pays to .have the underskirt of stlffest silk and of most expensive quality. As plaited skirts are still worn, the lining may either be attached to the cloth or silk at the belt or equally well it may be alto gether separate. Even in the most elab orate house gown many models are now sold without- skirt lining, so that the purchaser may suit herself the more easily In regard to the width of the flounce and the length of the petti coat. ■ • | No underskirt should be made all in one piece, with simply one full flounce added perhaps at the knees. Unlesi the lower half of the skirt Is unusually full and consists of numberless yards of material the desired flare cannot pos sibly be obtained. Therefore a flounce of some kind can alone satisfy Dame Fashion at the present time. The Spanish flounce Is always capital style for.' a petticoat and lends itself espec ially well to . the fashion of the mo ment. - A sheathiike fitted top to the petticoat and a wide bias flounce glve> the | required close fit around the hips arid an exaggerated flare.,. Nor Is one flounce sufficient, "for If the material be of ' light silk and elaborate lace trim ming Is desired there must be a lining to the outer flounce quite as full an the flounce Itself, while also there is a narrow ruffle at the edge of the Inner flounce and lining. j There Is real econ omy in this double flounce skirt, for in walking a j single deep ruffle ' cuts through In a distressingly . short while. For a simple style of underskirt per callne or some such material may be used under the flounce, and in this way the skirt will be found to last really a good while before the silk begins to crock. ■'.''?*'."■' \ Even with a walking dostume tht silk petticoat Is now most elaborate in design, while for a house : frock or, a ball gown the petticoat is but an, lnch or so shorter than the [ dress and fre quently It ; altogether surpasses the gown Itself in workmanship and effect iveness. Among 3 the ; newest • models striped silks and brocades abound. \Wlth a striped sllk/\air black ' and .white ■;' or ■yink and white, the flounce may be of all white taffeta, but trimmed so as to correspond in coloring with the upper part of the petticoat. For example, on an underskirt of black . and white striped silk there was added at the knees a deep, very wide Spanish flounce of white taffeta trimmde all the way down with alternate rows of! narrow and wide black velvet ribbon, separated by insertions of inch wide black Val enciennes lace. Beneath this flounce was another of. plain white taffeta edged with a full three inch gathered ruffle. Most attractive this. year are the silk petticoats designed for evening wear. Of such fascinating silks are they fash ioned and so charmingly are the count less yards- of lace trimming arranged that it is well nigh impossible to resist the temptation of, purchasing many petticoats of the same design, differ ing perhaps only in colorings. When only one skirt can be had, that is, apart from the all white silk petticoat, which Is obligatory In every trousseau, probably the best Investment will prove to be one of delicate brocade. Pale green, yellow and mauve, . all faintly discernible, but one no more marked than another, makes a good color com bination, and in the lace flounces may. appear bow knots of different colored ribbon, carrying out the design of the silk. No. matter how full a lawn pettlaoat may be, despite the width of the lace flounces .or the number of ruffles In their 'composition, an underflounce of silk is always necessary. There is not sufficient, body to lace and fine lawn, and the flounce must be of a good stiff taffeta to be . of service. The fashion Introduced some time ago of the de tachable silk flounce still holds good, and the idea is maintained as .well in the skirt, made itself of silk, but fln lhsed with deep lace and handkerchief linen bias, or gathered flounces. These flounces may either be fastened on by \ tniy buttons and loop, hidden beneath a flap of lace, or else may be attached by means of a double row of lace bead ing through which a narrow ribbon Is i-un— one row by the flounce, the other' on the skirt itself. Many women prefer to wear white petticoats, even with a heavy cloth suit, but for the city silk skirts are be coming more and more of a necessity, for, as said above,* Upon the petticoat depends to a | great extent, the hang, and therefore the style, of the cloth skirt. With a short skirt the petticoat should be scarcely, If any,* shorter than the outside skirt, unless there la a heavy silk lining; but with a long dress the. train of the petticoat shc^jld be at any. rate short, enough to be held up . without difficulty. There is no. limit to the width of the ; flounce In a \ silk underskirt, but it Is no exaggeration to state; that, even'; with' unusually , stiff . silk, petticoats are now made up meas-'; } uring a good nine yards about the hem.'/ ■' One -. German ■; woman ' in 3 about ; every, twenty-seven i works In a; factory. - - , i , •■ > .