Newspaper Page Text
THE EUROPEAN CHAIN GANG Kate Masterson rpHE summer Is their special season, I although they have all seasons ■*■ for their own. In winter they pursue their lockstep through Egypt and southern France, taking from the gayety of Nice and Monte Carlo, sklrt inir the Mediterranean and prowling through Italy's old churches, always attended by a man howling through a megaphone, and always destroying the landscape and the charm of whatever place of Interest they have penetrated. As such places as they regular route they have absolutely become a pest on the face of Europe, something to be fled from instantly, but which it la Im possible to escape. True, the wintf variety is only mildly objectionable In comparison to the spring and sum mer term tourist, who, with their little red guide books and their cameras, Bwaim over the old world, peering into the secret passages of ruined palaces and making their presence known throughout quiet country inns in Eng land and quaint hotels on the con tinent by their awful clamor for Ice water and soap. . . It was a business genius who first conceived the idea of taking tourists through Europe en masse and for a lump sum. showing them all the show places and transplanting them from boat to railroad train and from omni bus to hotel, saving them the necessity of looking up such matters or of even discovering for themselves the beauties of the Irish lakes or the majesty of Mont Blanc. And these are advantages to the stranger when the; language spoken is other th?n English and the money and customs of the country are an Impene trable mystery to their dollars and cents comprehension. It was a genius, but not nn artist, that conceived the idea, and it proved one of the greatest commercial suc cesses of its century. It made many fortunes for its inceptors and pro moters, and it put Europe and its •wonders within the reach of persons •who could never otherwise attempt the ,to them impossible feat of a cross ocean tour. Undoubtedly, too, it brought to many yearning souls through years of hop- Ing and praying the realization of their dreams when they stood at last under the shadow of the Sphinx or thrilled ■with a strange joy as they entered the gallery of the Venus in the Louvre. | Features Not Often Seen in Arlington, the Picturesque City of the Nation's Dead ARLINGTON, the nation's ceme tery, near "Washington, is one of the meccas for thousands of sightseers every year, yet few of the hordes -who seek Its cool and shady depths visit it with a foreknowledge which enables them to master its many Interesting details. They gaze at its show places, study the accepted and familiar tombs and go away satisfied. Its beauties and its oddities pass un observed, though it has a plethora of bi .h. Arlington is a most historic spot. George Washington, the Custis family, and later the Lees, their descendants, including: the beloved general, Robert E. Lee, all owned and lived on the beautiful estate. Yet much of interest on account of these associations is lost on the casual visitor. For instance, Arlington National cemetery has three gateways of rare architectural beauty which strangers seldom see and which really serve no purpose. The reason is that the course of events has turned Arlington around. It faces east, but nearly everybody enters from the west, or through what Is the back door. The great "Gates of Arlington" are on the eastern front of the estate. The mansion house faces east, but the first view that persons get of it as they enter Arlington through the usual way is the back view. In Other Days The ancient Alexandria-Georgetown pike skirts the east face of Arlington. In other days this was a great thor- | oughfare, but it is not much traveled now. In the olden days, that is up to the time of the Civil War, everybody entering Arlington did so from this road. When the federal authorities took possession of the property in the spring of 1861, a few days after the departure of the Lees for Richmond, the east en trance was the main way. Then the government established great military camps and hospitals on the plateau back of Arlington. It built Fort Whip pie, one of the chain of fortifications for the defense of Washington, at the rear of Arlington. The earthworks have been leveled and on tind around the site has grown up the important cav alry post of Fort Myer. A number of X'illages have sprung up west of Arlington, and between these, Fort Myer and Washington, have been built new and fine roads and electric car lines. In this way travpl has been deflected to the west of Arlington, and this is why persons going to the national cemetery enter by what was in the days of George Washington, John Pike Custis, George Washington Parke Cus tlc and Robert E. Lee the bank way. The Custis Graves The gravos of Georgp Washington Parko Custis and his wifp, born Mary Lee Fltzhugh, lie in a densely shaded spot by the edge of a shadowy ravine in the midst of the "privates' section" and southwest of the Tomb of the Unknown. Few persons ever stray that way. The grave* are marked by two white marble monuments. The taller is inscribed: Georgp Washington Park* Curtis, Bnrn April 30. 1781, DlPd Oftober 10, 18. r ,7 Blessed Aro the Mprciful For They Shall Obtain Merry. The shorter monument is inscribed: Mary L, Curtis. Bnrn April 22, 17SS, Pled April 23. 15R3. Blessed Are the Pure in Heart For They Shall See God. At the base of the tombs grow lilies and myrtle culled from the gardens of old Arlington, and no doubt planted at these graves by Mary Ann Randolph Custis, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Cus tis. the wife of Gen. Robert K. Lee. The man whose bones rest under the taller monument was the builder of Arlington mansion. His father was John Parke Custis, son of Daniel Parke Custis of White House, Va., and his mother was Eleanor Calvert of Mount Airy, Prince George's county, Mary land. His paternal grandmother was Mrs. George Washington of Mount Vernon and hfi was the adopted son of George AVashlngton. Soon after the marriage of John Parke Custis and Eleanor Calvert Mr. Custia bought from Gerald Alexander a tract of land opposite Georgetown, then in Maryland but now a part of Wash ington city. The only house on the Droperty was that of the Alexanders. The genius whose brain fathered the plan little Imagined that his thought, wonderful ns It was In many ways, would evolve finally into one of the most pathetically humorous spectacles the world has ever seen when the per sons who make up the different herds of traveling humans are considered. He never knew that his plan would threaten to blight the grandeur of the Alps, turn the tomb of Napoleon Into the scene of a continuous vaudeville and make the wonders of the world side shows at which half comprehending groups of tired men and women glanced open mouthed before they were hur ried on to another halting place. Even the glory of a Venetian sunset is dimmed when It becomes the back ground for one of these sad tourist hordes, bound In chains of iron, not through love for each other or even a similarity of taste, age, creed or the affinity that binds the criminal to his fellow, but by the stern regulations of their touring tickets, which hold them together during the prescribed period of travel, with no allowance for good beha^or. Individual Intelligence Taken separately there is little doubt that the members of the chain gang would prove to have Individuality, in terest, intelligence, even charm. Un thinking, unambitious persons do not set out to see new worlds under ouch difficulties. They sit by the fire at home and glvo voice to quaint unoriginal philosophies. But, seeing the gang tourists as they hurry on each other's heels through Westminister Abbey or huddle In hor ribly sheepllko groups In the corridors of Versailles, it is impossible 1o dignify them with separate personalities. Ono, is Immediately impressed with the metaphysical truth that we are bound to become In time that which our environment and companionships make of us. Undoubtedly the members of the chain gang are provided with spts of ruifs as to dress, and even behavior, that they foel called upnn to obey. Certain It Is that as two or throe dozen of them enter the courtyard of a foreign hotel the women, at all events, look so much alike as to seem that they belong to some sisterhood that has abjured the vanity of gowns that wash, or even a bit of neckwear or lare that looks as though it might have been freshened at a cleaner's or in a tub. There is no touch of daintiness about the chain gang, no fluttering veil show |No vestige of this house remains. Its | site is covered by an experiment gar den of the department of agriculture, and a few bricks found on the site were put in the walls of a government build ing that stands in the experiment grounds. The Genesis of Arlington Custis built a big frame house on the river shore which he called Abingdon. The house is standing. It was there that Eliza, Martha and Nellie Custis were born. George Washington Parke Custis was born at the home of his mother's parents in Maryland. John Parke Custis served as an aid on Washington's staff and died of fever near Yorktown November 5, 1781. George Washington adopted his two young children, Nellie and George Washington Parke. These children took up their residence with their grandmother, Mrs. Washington, at Mount Vernon. Nellie lived there till her marriage to Washington's nephew, Lawrence Lewis, February 22, 1799, and George Washington Parke Custis lived there till the death of Mrs. Washington in 1802. Then he chose a hlllsite on the Abingdon estate and erected the great house, Arlington, so named in memory of John Custis the second, whose home "Arlington" stood in Northampton county, Va., which was named in honor of Henry, Ear! of Arlington, a co grantee with Lord Culpepper of Vir ginia. Many of the residents of Washington remember G. W. Parke Custis. He died four years before the outbreak of the Civil War, and before the federal authorities took possession of the Heights of Arlington because they com manded the city of AVashlngton. The "Unknown" On the eastern slope of Arlington, far from any other, and in "a removed spot," is a grave covered with a marble slab and enclosed with a high brick wall. The slab is inscribed: Sacred to the. Memory of Mrs. Mary Randolph. Her Intrinsic! Worth Needs no Eloglum. The deceased was born the 9th of August. 1702, nt AmpthlM, near Rlch mand, Va., and diml the 23d of January, 1828, In Washington City, a victim to maternal love and duty. As a tribute of Filial Gratitude this monument is dedicated to her exalted virtues by her youngest son. It is a strange fact that the author ities of Arlington have no knowledge concerning the person whose bones rest In this tomb. Yet she was a member of the great Randolph family of the James river country and was in some way related to Mrs. Robert E. Lee on her mother's side. The Washington National Intelli gencer of January 24, 1828, throws this light on the old tomb: Death — In Washington at, 1 o'clock a. m. on the 23d lust., after an illness LOS . ANGELES HERALD SUNDAY SUPPLEMENT. ing a pretty arrangement of the hair, or a well pinned belt suggesting thfi grace and Insouciance of dress that, at home, frequently confuses the shop girl with the heiress, often to the disad vantage of the latter. All this vanishes in the woman who gees out touring with the gang. She does as the others do. It Is more con venient. As a member of the gang it is more clubby and no doubt a girl who started out to curl her hair or wear silk stockings would be talked about. Then, too, the experience of travel- Ing with the gang must, after the first few days, have, nn effect peculiarly chastening. The tourist paying thus in one fell swoop and in advance for travel, board, lodging and a guide, necessarily learns quite early In the game that he must take what ho gets. The arrangements made with hotels, pensions and with boats and railroads are all imperative as to time, for the rates are always reduced by which the chain gang travels, owing to the num ber of people provided for. Then there Is some sad idea promulgated by cir culars that no tips are necessary In a land where nothing in the way of com fort can be had without tips. The result Is the chain gang really travels fourth class, although it is dif ferently labeled. At hotels and pen sions nnd boats and trains special res ervations are always held for the gang, with all that this specialty Implies. The Independent traveler can at once refuse a room, a ship cabin or a dinnei that does not suit him. The chain gang tourist can go without if he does not take what is offered. And after a week or so of this experience he naturally acquires that cowed, hunted look which is his identifying feature—whether you meet him on ton of Notre Damn or In the Shiikcspenrp house at Rtrntford ho always inoks the fane. Ho knows that on tho checker board of Europe it Is al ways his move next. Waiting in Lobbies One s<V"* them having arrived after some tiresome journey, dusty, hungry and fatlguea, but unprovided with pre pared rooms, forced to wall, evon with out chairs in n hallway while make shift accommodation is arranged for. Beyond lho dining r.»om doors they ran spc other .md Independently traveling guests leisurely finishing their meal, whichever it may be. Thon. without a change of tablo linpn or even fresh water in the carafes, the weary tourists are allowed to enter, of six days, Mrs. Mary Randolph, aged 65 years. Respected and esteemed through life by a very numerous ac quaintance. Her friends are respectfully invited to attend the procession of her funeral this morning at 10 o'clock from her late residence to the Potomac Bridge, the Interment to be made at Arlington in a spot marked out by herself. John Randolph was a member of con- The Custis Family Monuments gross in 1828 and on the day of the funeral, as the report of the proceed ings of the house shows, he was active in the debates of that body. It would seem, therefore, that she was not closely related to him. She Is a mys tery as deep as the grave. Over Empty Graves In Arlington, Washington, there are also "tombstones" under which there are no tombs. Many officers of the army and navy have selected their grave sites and some have caused to be erected tombstones duly Inscribed with the exception of the date of death. A blank space on the stone Is left for this. Gen. Benham has had his monument erected. It Is inscribed as follows: In Memory of ■ Daniel W. Benham, Brigadier General U. S. Army. Born December 23, 1837. Died . ' Admiral Melville has also had ' hla seated six at tables intended to ac 'commoiate two, and it must be admit ted that they do not protest, but through sheer fatigue fall on the food that is served them with a fiercely con temptuous sneer by the waiters who know that no fee Is coming. One feels sad at first for so many of the chain gang sport the flag upon their chests, out by degrees you begin to share the scorn that generally seems to be thair portion. For under any circumstances why do they not assert their rights to such modest luxuries as clean table cloths and fresh water? But thro Is not one protest, and this Is the odd feature— that so many men and women could he found In one group! traveling under ihe pretense of pleas- J ure at all Hvents nnd nil tamely suhmlt-t ting to :he rnasl outrageous injustice and imp'j.l?ncp. One sp?edily Sets to know in Eu rope the treatment that would be ac corded to any traveler who would dar? to expect etervlces without a for. True, the amount Is very much smaller than that required in America, but It l.» moro frequent, and at the continental hotels and mnst nf the London one.*, for thnt matter, thpre is the waiter, the head waiter, the wine boy, th? carriage porter, Hip "bootp," the ,1 ft /nan and the co-operative maid and viilet that do the work of one cham bermaid In our own country. Each must have a fee, nnd If It Is forgotten nr omitted the servant stands at your carriage door, us you would drive away in the sight of all men, proclaiming you a welcher. So the chain gnng receives no gentle treat ment. Its members soem to bo pariahs on tho face of the earth and most of monument erected, though he is yet very much alive. There are several monuments under which rest the body of an officer or his wife and which are inscribed with the name of the survivor followed by a blank for the date of death. Admiral O'Nell has a monument inscribed as follows: Charles O'NpII, Rear Admiral U. 8 Navy 1842 . His Wife, Mary Caroline, 1845-1901. Gen. Mills has erected a handsome monument over the bodies of his wife and son and at the top of the inscribed side is the following: Anson Mills, Brigadier General U. 8 Army •1834 . These are some of the things few see in Arlington. It Is full of others of equal historic Interest. Prof. ; Haeckel, the sociologist, \ is timidity, itself on the rostrum. He has taught eighty-eight ' semesters at the University of Jena, but. declares that he has never been able to get over a.cer tain' timidity in appearing before an audience. ■ i the best hotels refuse absolutely to accommodate them, and In this item, ' as in all elso, they nre forced to do as they always must do— take what they can get. Rells nro allowed to ring unanswered; rooms are loft unmade up; baggage must be carried in person; lifts atop running at their approach, and in din ing rooms they get the ends of things and the omission of the best dishes on the menu, which omission, one learns, is nominated in the bond. Unfortunately there are so very many odd people with the gang — men and women that have gone nearly tho whole nf life's journey together and as n last great achievement have left their quiet homos In town or rountry r.nd romp to this old world to taste Cue bitterness of this infernal cuhnin atlvo honeymoon. How one wishes that they had chosen to leave this thing un t'o.ie nnd to remain among the comforts ■inrt accustomed surroundings of home where they had the respect and love The McClellan Gate . ■ The Sheridan Gate . A Monument for a Living.Man of fripnds and neighbors, to whom they now sond decorative post cards eloquent with what is left unsaid. For the chain gang is not comfort able. This story is told by their eyes, their nervous, frightened manner iind the silent, apologetic attitude they put on us a second nature while they hustle through their holiday. They are in for It now, and they know, too, if they figure it out, that they are receiving good value so far as transportation and the number of their meals and lodgingß. Doubtless the hour of their glory is the time when they have returned to their homes and can talk of the won ders they have seen and the strange lands visited. Irrespective of the dis comforts they have put up with ami the Indignities they have suffered. Cer tainly, they do not, like the usual trav eler, seem to joy, hs they go along In the old paths, for the hurried, fright ened, unhathe.l air never leaves them, hurled as they are from picture gal lery to cathedral and from boat to train. The evil shows no sign of abatement. On the contrary, other companies, spurred on by the success of the first pioneers of the gang tourist idea, are planning other and cheaper trips, and, figuring closely ns they do on each night's lodging nnd oach meal. It will bo seen at once that one person is going to suffer alone by this reduction and that is the tourist. In the calculation he Is reckoned just as a hor3» or a sheep would bo, aa requiring no much food and so many beds, s-> many days' keep and trans portation. If the Rushem company can take a tourist for $40 through France, then the Pusliem company figures out to take him for JRS. nnl the tourist buys the new ticket, bleating loudly about his bargain nnd never thinking that he alone loses by the transaction —in cheaper hotels, poorer fare, worse boats and trains, and even more un earthly hoars for catching them. Why do people choore this means of travel? For cheapness, yes; but Ihla is not nil. There ara any number of humans who have a dread of being alone. Even at home they live In board- Ing houses, for they must have com panionship or, as they sometimes call it, "society." The Most Frequent Sign The idea of Europe alone would doubly affright them; the strange tongues, the money, the getting about— it all seems too impossible. How are they to know that there are now many; English ticket offices in the foreign cap itals—interpreters at all stations and docks, as well as at hotels, and that the sign "English Spoken Here" is the most frequent one on the continent? So you will see many people, whose means are ample to enable them to travel comfortably and leisurely, loiter ing where they found it pleasant or when the weather forbade a start, en during all the evils of this gang travel and taking upon themselves the odium of other gangs that have done this sort of thing for years and have earned the scant welcome which is at present ac corded in European cities to those traveling this way. It is the presence of the chain gang in Europe that is responsible for the many absurd ideas that exist as to tha habits and customs of Americana abroad. For the chain gang flaunts Its Americanism as flamboyantly as it avoids laundry bills and objects loudly to paying for its baths or providing its own soap. These three peculiarities have made It known In every capital In Europe, nnd by ruined abbey and storied shrine, on the shores of the Nile and in the Black Forest it scatters soiled lingerie, collars and cuffs— a ver itable trail by which one may know that the chain gang has passed that way. This indignation upon the subject of soap becomes a thorn In the flesh by the time the tourist band finds that it is the custom on . the continent, for cleanly and personal reasons, for trav elers to have their own. It is not like this at home! No, for America is not only a richer but a cleaner and healthier country, but the tourist of the gang falls to understand the matter, just as the continental hotel keeper looks on this phase as the shrewd American's desire to evade his just expenses. So the chain gang goes on its way, wav ing the flag. Where is it all to end? With the rivalry of the several companies en gaged in the management of tours, with the eagerness with which the idea catches persons who would never undertake the trip alone, nnd the new inducements in the way of cheapness, the gangs will grow to be a plague and a nuisance even more terrible than they ure now. The princess of Wied, who is a promi nent figure in the court circles at Berlin and whose husband Is In the line of succession to the throne lof Holland, buys all the 111-used horses that come to her. notice and gives them the benefit of a m\aa> i» tows .weU-afipoiuted stable*.