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Newspaper Page Text
REIGN OF THE VEIL in many seasons has the veil had such undisputed sway in the world of ■ tagySa fashion. ESsg"gl ft is just as important an adjunct to Madame's toilettes as her hat or pnrasol. It must be just the right color, and Dne, too, that is approved this season. Some tints make one look old and sallow skinned, oth ers, beautify and flatter, and still others make the corners of your mouth curl for there are still thoße women who persist in wearing colored veils of lively hue and of fanciful arrangement when they should have left them alone. A veil has bad the effrontery to caricature more than one. Certain veils will only, become certain features, just as certain models in gowns will become cer tain figures, and while no hard and fast rules can be laid down in regard to the selection of a veil, there are certain rules for the guidance of would-be purchasers that may be worth observ ing. For instance, the large, open mesh, dotted with bo\d j black velvet discs set far apart, that is so becoming to the tall, large blonde, or the brunette with vivid coloring and striking feat ures, is actually grotesque worn by a small wo man with delicate, nondescript eyes and com plexion. For her, there is the fine mesh, black and closely dotted with small black spots, or an equally fine background in white, showing dainty traceries in black following a email de sign. For the middle-aged woman whom hair is jjust turning and whose akin and eyes are show- Ing the same ravages of time, this veil is par ex cellence, imparting delicacy to the features and 1 taking the whole responsibility for the faded hair, blending rather than contrasting with it. VOGUE OF LONG VEILS. Veils this summer have been unusually long, but in most cases are worn hanging loose from the hat. Many are so arranged that they tie under the chin and so adjusted on the hat that lay close against the face. This Btyle is not altogether comfortable in Summer, but will J»e much worn for autumn. Large square veils are used for country wear, and ore usually tied in front under the chin. Very long mortor veils have disappeared, the ends had a persistent way of floating out and covering yours or somebody else's face. Those worn today by smart women are long enough to cover the face md be brought abound to tie in a small scarf. The wire Joop is still in demand. A daahinir mi-nli is Russian net over which is scattered dots, smnll and those of a courageous size. The dot matches the color of your gown, or hot, gloves, parasol and hosiery. Those of a cream tint over which large brown chenille knots are dropped is v modish choice, and is very smart with a brown frock. Girls of the blonde type are going in for all white and black veils. There is a certain shade of pink that both blondes «nd brunettes can wear when their complexions are fairly good; it gives the wearer the most flattering peachy hue of a complexion you ever saw. Remember it has just a trifle of the lavender in its shadings. There is also quite a favoring for pure white veils, that are made especially becoming under a parasol of rosy hue or with a becoming lining. LACE VEILS COST SMALL FORTUNES. Lace veils in all possible styles and at all im aginable prices are in vogue this summer. Many of. the real lace veils are beautiful and would dnna any hat effectively, but among the better grades of machine laces ars to be found some excellent veils. Either black or white is most generally seen, but dyed laces of all colorings »re to be had. A light coffee color or ecru is gen erally more becoming than the plain white. In light mourning a lace veil is correct, but crepe bordered lace veils seem singularly inappropriate. A. laca veil should^ be long and unusually wide. LOS. ANGELES HERALD SUNDAY SUPPLEMENT It should be worn with the ends caught up on the hat, but it, must not be strained tightly across the face as a mesh veil is- worn. Many stunning lace veils are seen in brown chantilly and rose point. Parisian women are wearing the lace veils ar ranged in soft cascades that extend nearly to or below the waist. Such a pretentious style war rants on equally dressy toilette, too much so for the average woman to adopt. AUTISTIC ARRANGEMENT OP VEILS. How many women realize how much of her good looks is marred or made by the "graceful ar rangement of her veil? Mighty few when one takes a bird's-eye view of the^usual everyday gathering of women. The veil must balance with the wearer's height and be iv accordance with her individual gowning. On tbi* paw tre «uo wu some good models of veil drapery that are sure to find enthusiastic ad mirera. The Continental fashion of wearing the long veil U very good and 's not unliko the mourning veil, only the latter ie laid in smooth decorous foldi, while the former ripples gracefully. Lace veils are charming bo arranged, so also are those of net or chiffon, some having a silken border. Quite a coquettish idea is shown in the veil adjusted to the wide back brim of the hat. The •ketch was made at Newport »nd the veil worn by a New York woman who had but lately re turned from her annual trip across the pond. When the coiffure must needs have extra pro tection another sketch shows how to arrange a veil that is at once smart and sensible. The edge is of lace braid put on in scrolls. Another illustration shows a becoming and graceful way of draping the veil over the hat and under the chin. JIAKJOHIB. FASHION IN FRIVOLITY T' IHE frivolous woman who would' be , up to date must change her mode of fnv : olity as often bb she changes her h«s. 3HS! "Saucine*." one day with its dainty, *—- "" piquant flavor, may be insolence tne next. The serious business of one generation may be the frivolity of another. The frivolous woman of Dickens' time took life seriously. From Dora Copperfield with demur* curls-"holding the pens" as David wrote -to garruious Mrs. Nicklcby— they had httle seii6c of humor. A generation or to later the really frivolous woman went slumming. The Lady Bountiful who dispensed coal and blankets around her doors was considered bourgeoise and behind the times In order to be "in the swim women made pilgrimages to the slums, to hospitals, any where where out of the usual "cases might be met with. When found, their energies spent themselves in cross-examining the case prom ising to bring it up before the committee, and suggesting at subsequent afternoon teas that someone ought to do something about it. •At the heels of the slumming fever came the "Aesthetic" movement. Those who were too frivolous to enter into the serious business of life threw themselves into the movement heart and soul, and faded green tea-gowns, sunflowers, painted drain pipe* and "art for arts sake' be came the interest of the hour. This"pansies and «mudge"school gradually gave wav to peacock feathers and blue china, thanks in a greut pressure to Mr. Andrew Lang. But the moment the craw for art had reason to back it-the frivolous forsook the chase and with a ■treat hue and cry set out pell-mell after the political woman as depicted by Mrs. Humphry Ward "Woman's 'influence in Politics was the catch ' phrase gabbled on every side, and the more empty minded the woman, the greater was; hTr ambition to hold political function, like the " ♦ Tory receptions of Lord Beaconsfield's day. Of course, it soon died out. Its want of hu mor killed it. Feverish as ever for "something new" the frivolously inclined now turned their attention to athleticism, not eport-real spoi-t is never f rivolous-but athleticism for its own sake was Burely the most mischievous of all mischier ""for "womanhood" declined under the new regime. Flat chested, muscular beings were trained under the new laws-unsexed-becaus« It wa» the fashion so to be, yet eagerly jostling in th« r«c« towards the marrlaie «ltar. Vox marriage never went out of fashion, although Motherhood did. Childless, or almost ■o-*wiu» one or perhaps two weakly infants brought up "by hand"— the athletic woman has not found her golfing »core or tournament prizes have de fended her in the. eyes of the world. Human na ture is good at heart — there it wisdom In the old world's judgment — and a woman unfitted for motherhood— no matter how brilliant her other achievements—is a failure. Society at last per ceived this, and the fashion changed again. . "Woman as a wage earner" now became the shibboleth of the frivoloua. "Her legitimate field for work" became their happy hunting ground. The pity of this latest ftd was that with the triflings of the novelty seekers was bound up a great deal of earnest work— such v that of the Countess of Warwick and other wo men of brain and energy. The more obvious vocations for women were, of course, considered uninteresting and were, at a consequence, neglected. Domestic service, hos pital nursing, sewing, literary or secretarial work, were all relegated to the background, while market gajdening, law, carpentering and solicit ing were "boomed" for all— or a great deal mors than— they were worth. Dora Copperfiend no longer begged to be allowed to "hold the pent" Instead, she found her way into some dressmak ing establishment and in the course of a "talk" with a promising apprentice unburdened herself in this manner: "The conditions under which you work art shameful; the work itself is paltry and degrad ing. You say you are fond of reading court news— how would you like to be a lawyer! I will see if I cannot do something for you." 1 "The girl has aspirations"— she remarks when she subsequently relates the interview to her husband, who has his own views on the matter, but wisely refrains from stating them. But even this form of. frivolity— and it is the frivolity of the present Say— is bound to past in a short time. Already there are signs of it. "The masses are hopelessly ungrateful," insists one woman whose proteges decline to leave the arduous but profitable vocation of dressmaking for the problematical gains of poultry farming or bee-keeping. "Absolutely without soul," echoes another— whose Browning Club for Working Girls" has met with scanty support. 60 the fad is slowly but surely dying out. What the next craze will be the frivolous woman alone ran tell. Let us hope she will go back to her lap-dogs and novel reading and that her in satiable curiosity and restless spirit will cess* to trifle with the deeper questions of life.