REIGN OF THE VEIL
in many seasons has the veil had
such undisputed sway in the world of
■ tagySa fashion.
ESsg"gl ft is just as important an adjunct
to Madame's toilettes as her hat or
pnrasol. It must be just the right color, and
Dne, too, that is approved this season. Some
tints make one look old and sallow skinned, oth
ers, beautify and flatter, and still others make the
corners of your mouth curl for there are still
thoße women who persist in wearing colored veils
of lively hue and of fanciful arrangement when
they should have left them alone. A veil has
bad the effrontery to caricature more than one.
Certain veils will only, become certain features,
just as certain models in gowns will become cer
tain figures, and while no hard and fast rules
can be laid down in regard to the selection of a
veil, there are certain rules for the guidance of
would-be purchasers that may be worth observ
ing. For instance, the large, open mesh, dotted
with bo\d j black velvet discs set far apart, that
is so becoming to the tall, large blonde, or the
brunette with vivid coloring and striking feat
ures, is actually grotesque worn by a small wo
man with delicate, nondescript eyes and com
plexion. For her, there is the fine mesh, black
and closely dotted with small black spots, or
an equally fine background in white, showing
dainty traceries in black following a email de
sign. For the middle-aged woman whom hair is
jjust turning and whose akin and eyes are show-
Ing the same ravages of time, this veil is par ex
cellence, imparting delicacy to the features and
1 taking the whole responsibility for the faded hair,
blending rather than contrasting with it.
VOGUE OF LONG VEILS.
Veils this summer have been unusually long,
but in most cases are worn hanging loose from
the hat. Many are so arranged that they tie
under the chin and so adjusted on the hat that
lay close against the face.
This Btyle is not altogether comfortable in
Summer, but will J»e much worn for autumn.
Large square veils are used for country wear,
and ore usually tied in front under the chin.
Very long mortor veils have disappeared, the
ends had a persistent way of floating out and
covering yours or somebody else's face. Those
worn today by smart women are long enough to
cover the face md be brought abound to tie in a
small scarf. The wire Joop is still in demand.
A daahinir mi-nli is Russian net over which is
scattered dots, smnll and those of a courageous
size. The dot matches the color of your gown,
or hot, gloves, parasol and hosiery. Those of a
cream tint over which large brown chenille knots
are dropped is v modish choice, and is very
smart with a brown frock.
Girls of the blonde type are going in for all
white and black veils. There is a certain shade
of pink that both blondes «nd brunettes can
wear when their complexions are fairly good; it
gives the wearer the most flattering peachy hue
of a complexion you ever saw. Remember it
has just a trifle of the lavender in its shadings.
There is also quite a favoring for pure white
veils, that are made especially becoming under
a parasol of rosy hue or with a becoming lining.
LACE VEILS COST SMALL FORTUNES.
Lace veils in all possible styles and at all im
aginable prices are in vogue this summer. Many
of. the real lace veils are beautiful and would
dnna any hat effectively, but among the better
grades of machine laces ars to be found some
excellent veils. Either black or white is most
generally seen, but dyed laces of all colorings »re
to be had. A light coffee color or ecru is gen
erally more becoming than the plain white. In
light mourning a lace veil is correct, but crepe
bordered lace veils seem singularly inappropriate.
A. laca veil should^ be long and unusually wide.
LOS. ANGELES HERALD SUNDAY SUPPLEMENT
It should be worn with the ends caught up on
the hat, but it, must not be strained tightly
across the face as a mesh veil is- worn.
Many stunning lace veils are seen in brown
chantilly and rose point.
Parisian women are wearing the lace veils ar
ranged in soft cascades that extend nearly to or
below the waist. Such a pretentious style war
rants on equally dressy toilette, too much so for
the average woman to adopt.
AUTISTIC ARRANGEMENT OP VEILS.
How many women realize how much of her
good looks is marred or made by the "graceful ar
rangement of her veil?
Mighty few when one takes a bird's-eye view
of the^usual everyday gathering of women. The
veil must balance with the wearer's height and
be iv accordance with her individual gowning.
On tbi* paw tre «uo wu some good models of
veil drapery that are sure to find enthusiastic ad
mirera.
The Continental fashion of wearing the long
veil U very good and 's not unliko the mourning
veil, only the latter ie laid in smooth decorous
foldi, while the former ripples gracefully. Lace
veils are charming bo arranged, so also are those
of net or chiffon, some having a silken border.
Quite a coquettish idea is shown in the veil
adjusted to the wide back brim of the hat. The
•ketch was made at Newport »nd the veil worn
by a New York woman who had but lately re
turned from her annual trip across the pond.
When the coiffure must needs have extra pro
tection another sketch shows how to arrange a
veil that is at once smart and sensible. The
edge is of lace braid put on in scrolls. Another
illustration shows a becoming and graceful way
of draping the veil over the hat and under the
chin. JIAKJOHIB.
FASHION IN FRIVOLITY
T' IHE frivolous woman who would' be , up
to date must change her mode of fnv
: olity as often bb she changes her h«s.
3HS! "Saucine*." one day with its dainty,
*—- "" piquant flavor, may be insolence tne
next. The serious business of one generation
may be the frivolity of another.
The frivolous woman of Dickens' time took
life seriously. From Dora Copperfield with
demur* curls-"holding the pens" as David wrote
-to garruious Mrs. Nicklcby— they had httle
seii6c of humor.
A generation or to later the really frivolous
woman went slumming. The Lady Bountiful
who dispensed coal and blankets around her
doors was considered bourgeoise and behind the
times In order to be "in the swim women
made pilgrimages to the slums, to hospitals, any
where where out of the usual "cases might be
met with. When found, their energies spent
themselves in cross-examining the case prom
ising to bring it up before the committee, and
suggesting at subsequent afternoon teas that
someone ought to do something about it.
•At the heels of the slumming fever came the
"Aesthetic" movement. Those who were too
frivolous to enter into the serious business of
life threw themselves into the movement heart
and soul, and faded green tea-gowns, sunflowers,
painted drain pipe* and "art for arts sake' be
came the interest of the hour.
This"pansies and «mudge"school gradually gave
wav to peacock feathers and blue china, thanks
in a greut pressure to Mr. Andrew Lang. But
the moment the craw for art had reason to back
it-the frivolous forsook the chase and with a
■treat hue and cry set out pell-mell after the
political woman as depicted by Mrs. Humphry
Ward "Woman's 'influence in Politics was the
catch ' phrase gabbled on every side, and the
more empty minded the woman, the greater was;
hTr ambition to hold political function, like the
" ♦ Tory receptions of Lord Beaconsfield's day.
Of course, it soon died out. Its want of hu
mor killed it. Feverish as ever for "something
new" the frivolously inclined now turned their
attention to athleticism, not eport-real spoi-t is
never f rivolous-but athleticism for its own sake
was Burely the most mischievous of all mischier
""for "womanhood" declined under the new
regime. Flat chested, muscular beings were
trained under the new laws-unsexed-becaus«
It wa» the fashion so to be, yet eagerly jostling
in th« r«c« towards the marrlaie «ltar. Vox
marriage never went out of fashion, although
Motherhood did. Childless, or almost ■o-*wiu»
one or perhaps two weakly infants brought up
"by hand"— the athletic woman has not found
her golfing »core or tournament prizes have de
fended her in the. eyes of the world. Human na
ture is good at heart — there it wisdom In the
old world's judgment — and a woman unfitted for
motherhood— no matter how brilliant her other
achievements—is a failure. Society at last per
ceived this, and the fashion changed again. .
"Woman as a wage earner" now became the
shibboleth of the frivoloua. "Her legitimate
field for work" became their happy hunting
ground. The pity of this latest ftd was that
with the triflings of the novelty seekers was
bound up a great deal of earnest work— such v
that of the Countess of Warwick and other wo
men of brain and energy.
The more obvious vocations for women were,
of course, considered uninteresting and were, at
a consequence, neglected. Domestic service, hos
pital nursing, sewing, literary or secretarial
work, were all relegated to the background, while
market gajdening, law, carpentering and solicit
ing were "boomed" for all— or a great deal mors
than— they were worth. Dora Copperfiend no
longer begged to be allowed to "hold the pent"
Instead, she found her way into some dressmak
ing establishment and in the course of a "talk"
with a promising apprentice unburdened herself
in this manner:
"The conditions under which you work art
shameful; the work itself is paltry and degrad
ing. You say you are fond of reading court
news— how would you like to be a lawyer! I
will see if I cannot do something for you."
1 "The girl has aspirations"— she remarks when
she subsequently relates the interview to her
husband, who has his own views on the matter,
but wisely refrains from stating them.
But even this form of. frivolity— and it is the
frivolity of the present Say— is bound to past in
a short time. Already there are signs of it.
"The masses are hopelessly ungrateful," insists
one woman whose proteges decline to leave the
arduous but profitable vocation of dressmaking
for the problematical gains of poultry farming or
bee-keeping. "Absolutely without soul," echoes
another— whose Browning Club for Working
Girls" has met with scanty support.
60 the fad is slowly but surely dying out.
What the next craze will be the frivolous woman
alone ran tell. Let us hope she will go back to
her lap-dogs and novel reading and that her in
satiable curiosity and restless spirit will cess*
to trifle with the deeper questions of life.