Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel], June 14, 1908, Image 59

About Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
THE LATEST FASHION FANCIES
ttssssssSiSSSSSi^ESS 1 FV^i*^ C^ TTTWn^^TEP 1! "^ #^~*i "V! —^——■
TheQ-ir3-w3rxo^ow-o ■ ;
Battling Togs of Silk and Mohair - Golf
and Tennis Clothes - How the Ath
letic Girl Keeps Her Flawless
Complexion - Yachting
and Canoeing.
'• ,i As wnmanktui! becomes more and more
emancipated bo do her opportunities for
'. winning - health and contentment by In
dulging a taste for out-of-door activities
multiply. Especially Is this true of the
> girl who has plenty of money, as well as
leisure hours, nt her command. ~ Rarely
"does one so blessed fall to enthusiastical
ly go in for and usually become an ex
■ pert at some sport that is best adapted
to her summer borne environment, for In
few fashionable American resorts do. sea
D and mountains meet as at Bar Harbor,
Me. This season bathing promises to be
more, than ever the fad of th« fashion.
ables, and of all warm-weather ' sports
none, is mor* easily Indulged in,' while
there are few which call for a costume
. that > so generally .becomes , the . average
'-. pretty woman. . ; :
*• Mohair and Taffeta Suit*. ' -
: ■ Long ago that blue flannel, white
h striped horror and prototype of . the mas
■ culine bathing suit was firmly discarded
by the feminine. bather, who now rarely
arrays herself In a suit of woolen fabric.
She prefers' the lighter fabrics, such as
taffetas and mohair,: which .are neither
" clinging nor- cumbersome,' and may ..be
made up in Innumerable becoming, ways.
The skirts of striped, cheeked or plain
mohair or taffeta suits are scarcely more
than knee length, gored at front and
•Ides, : but -with straight breadths at the
back, these so deeply plaited Into the
' waistband that even ■ when watersoaked
i they « stand well oat > from the figure.
Blouses are made up on lines rather simi
lar to those ordinarily, worn, . but with
deeper shoulder plaits.. They . are,' of
, course, collarless, and their sleeve* so ab
■ breviated as to fully display the elbow
-'dimples. ',''?:■'.' ■ '■■■■' ■••■' - ' >'.'r;'r
. Tennis Attract* Many. ;
• The tennis maid is considered by her
- admirers i as the . most charming of nil
: pretty athletes. Certain It Is that she
I never falls to appear daintily dressed In
her | white wing uniform -of , lightweight
serge or heavy linen or pique. The skirt
i of this - garb - should "be long enough to
modestly cover > her; ankles, bnt not too ;
long to get In her way while running.
It should be rendered;gracefully volumi
nous by many gores or cluster plaltlngs,
'but, nevertheless, fit neatly about the
blps. •So : that the accompanying blouse
'* he nontransparent and sufficiently roomy
'it'may, be of any simple tailored design,*
Outing Accessories.
V When the summer girl.travels, or rather,
migrates from ' her city borne to the cot.
-.'tage, so-called, set amid green fields ■ and
' apparently • far removed ) from ! the ' mad-,
I dening ; crowd,- but In' reality i but a ; few,
„ minutes' rids ':, from ; country > clubhouse,
golf links and driving park,,her. accesso
■' rim ' weigh . almost 'as ; heavily sometimes
} —or.i lightly—as \ the I amount of luggage
carried "> for i the ; price i of, one « railway,
;i ticket. First and • foremost, perhaps be- *
'- cause It 'is, the most picturesque • looking
of the sporting paraphernalia, comes; the
■tennis racket. It is In thorough order for ■
. the season's work. Every cord of it* net-;
; ting Is taut and j true, Its frame polished
-'. and Its handle smooth." The '. tennis ' girl •
I has 'rackets of various size's and j weights,*
■' bat | always there :is • one , prime' favorite
• among tne collection,to be recognised by:
'/. th« ribbon, the : millinery or • society but-.
I ton attached |to It. What may be , termed
an."accessory of the outing accessories",
•;? la i the /small i canvas bag embroidered
v, with the "owner's monogram, for the hall
■' collection } and t for such * small i trifles :as
'.'', may be J carried •to • the i tennis courts, j A
i' canvas" bag ] may ;be ' tossed ■ carelessly I on'
the : grass, and if forgotten in the excite
\% ment of x ' talking \ over the I morning's I dl
.' . version! and ' left font i all night, no great
T harm ■ will come to Its contents. iV -... : j
■ .The tennis shoe Is ' never a dainty spe
:; cimen of footgear. Not only Is'lt design->
' ed ; for : comfort,', and, therefore, .bi-oad: at
" ■ toes '. and i ball,« but S its \ spring I heel % robs
; ';the most Amialutlan-shaped ; instep of its,
tf arch; li addition; to j apparently: lengthen
■ Ing.the foot : The) most comfortable ;ten-,
>'-nin »bo«< are fashioned of white canvas,
3", whtca ■ fetches so i readily * that Jby I con-
but there should be neither stiff collar
nor cuffs, nnd the girdle should be ho
arranged that by no possibility can It be
divorced from either skirt or waist.
Tennis Compleilom Kept Flawless.
Because she Is usually a favorite at tbe
week-end country club dances, and also
because she wishes to look her prettiest
during tbe all-Important "tournament
week," the tennis maid Jealously pro
tects her complexion from the kisses of
Old Sol. and only after sundown does sho
go batless or vellless to the courts. Over
the tailored butchers' linen, pique or
legborn crush hat, with Its square crown
nnd turndown brim, die carefully ar
ranges a spotless veil of white or brown
chiffon. This is so draped over her face
that only the bridge of the none and tbe
ejrs sre visible, and thus she goes forth
secure in the knowledge thnt. she will
keep flawless tbe Ivory cuticle which is
said to be the reward of tbe womnn who
plays tennis regularly and orders her
diet sanely.
Ties and Sashes.
There are Innumerable natty accessories
which seem to tfave been designed for
the especinl benefit of the tennis maid.
One of these Is an elougated ascot tie
of plain twilled silk or Roman striped
ribbon, which is drawn under tbe racket
embroidered nautical collar, knotted In
front nnd has ends falling to the waist
line. Another tie of thin printed muslin
Is drawn about the throat or draped
about the hat crown and has the prac
tical merit of being easily laundered.
Bright colored soft silk sashes nre drawn
tightly about the wuist and knotted at
the left side, these matching In sha.de
the hat band of the wearer or the college
colors of a big brother belonging to her
self or some other girl.
The Gollng Glrl*s Garb.
The stalwart type of young woman who
goes in su strenuously for golf Is having
a great deal done for her of late by
tailors nnd haberdashers ambitious to
have her return from her tramps over an
18-hoie course looking as trim and natty
n» when setting forth. Certain it Ig that
never were tbe golfing girl's skirts so
smart. They are of rough surfaced, but
light weight English l^eed mixtures,
showing glints of brilliant colored threads
amongst their dull tones, and when not
widely side plaited and seunt about hip*
and ankles are of circular cut with the
trast all other shoe materials seem stiff
and unadaptable. Yet sonny persons who
have tried sporting shoes of every va
riety declare tuat, once having been
broken In, there Is nothing comparable
to the brown leather spriug-heeled Ox
fords. With the light brown tennis shoes
hoßlery of.thft same shade should be worn,
and this tint may quite properly accom
pany those of white canvas, as brown Is
a color which least of all, save red, at
tracts the siin'H rays, and consequently
keeps the feet and the ankles cooler than
they ordinarily would be.
Golfing sticks and cases are Invariably
heavy and unwleldly burdens, but as It
Is considered immensely smart to travel
with such an outfit in evidence, the case
should be perfectly fastened and Its con
tents clearly marked before allowing It
to be checked along with the other arti
cle* destined to play an important role in
the enjoyment of the nnnuitl outing. The
experienced golfing girl never under any
circumstances permits her ball bag to
leave her own hands. To be strictly In
harmony with the tradition* of the game,
this bag should be of Scotch plaid fabric
In the owner* particular clan, if she hay«
the slightest strain of Scotch blood In
her lineage. It* edges are leather or kld
houinl. Of the same pattern should be
the steamer rug which accompanies her
to golfers' ['i'-ui'-s, and to choose this
she need only consult some pamphlet rp-.
latlng to clansmen and their tartans. The
golfing shoe is even more unlovely than
that designed for war on tbe tennis
court, for it* hobnailed soles ire thick
and broad, Its beels low and square, and
Its dull-hued canvas top rather ehapelees,
The SUMMER GIRL
and her
SPORTS
welt-seamed front well emphasized. With
these skirts are worn pongee semi tailored
shirtwaists of some neutral tint like
gray or tan, for. needless to state, white
is out of the running when a golf cos
tume is to be considered.
Sweaters and, Tain*.
Sweaters and tarns lend to the golfing
girl the appearance of being perfectly
equipped to dare and do. or at leiist to
contend with any obstacle likely to ob
struct the course of her ball over the
links. These accessories are usually worn
In matching shades of worsted, the cap
set Jauntily upon a coiffure guiltless of
nlien puffs and curls, and the reefer jac
ket, knitted in various stitches, and fur
nished with deep, capacious square pock
ets. Tailors and haberdashers are trying
to induce the enthusiastic golfer to iidopt
high collars ns a protection for her neck,
hut she still clings persistently to the
brilliantly uued handkerchief, and so be
coming is It to her dusky complexion that
there is slight chanco of her sartorial
SI \l
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Bl- i's|\%l^^?^ |!ff^P Tennis eoid Golfing Toot™™
1' Jp<sjrt cf the Sporting Outfit ";"MBjE^ffi|
LOS ANGELES HERALD SUNDAY SUPPLEMENT
mentors 'being nble to affect a change.
Bright Green Coats.
The wave of emerald that came to
us, not from the Emerald Isle, but from
Paris, six months ago, has had Its effect
upon the shading of the golfing coat
other than that worn by the head caddy
which Is still of historic Lincoln green.
The long coat donned by the golfing girl
riding or motoring to and from the links,
bag of late become a rather ornate affair of
mohair or pongee. It is almost as long
as her abbreviated sjilrts, has large
sleeve* and straight double-breasted
fronts, faced with emerald satin to match
Ih* rather startlingly vivid wide collar
and deep cuffs.
Snnbonnet Coquettish.
It Is safe to assert that the girl who
will be the belle of teunis courts and
golf links this summer, will be (he of
the sunbonnet cult, for never since Satan
invented feminine headgear has there ap
peared anything more fascinating than
the revived form of the fabric bonnet.
Any woman may make one from cham
bray. gingham or percale, but In its
Idealized form, the sunbonnet is of lin
gerie materials with a puffy crown all
tucks and shlrrlngs . and with a de
lectable frilly edge, which Is supposed to
conceal the face from view, but In reality
renders It the more tantalizing and al
luring.
Silk Jersey Cornet Cover*.
Most sensible of the many new acces
sories :of the present summer and one
which the women of economical Ideas
will fully appreciate; Is the silk Jersey
corset cover of finest weave to be worn
beneath lace and lingerie blouses to the
exclusion of the lace trimmed and rib
bon run muslin waist. These are readily
laundered by the veriest amateur, and
are certainly a boon to the athletic girl
whose , energies make her laundry : bills
unpleasantly heavy. The silk jersey
Is also a useful accessory of the golfing
costume proper, as In very warm weather
It may be worn beneath the sweater,
whose deeply pointed collarless neck need
only be filled In with a soft silk scarf.
Natty Nautical Costume*.
More women than Is generally supposed
but then It Is flexible and nnkle-support
infr, and those are tbe chief considera
tions.
Fiehlne has come Into fashion among
girls who have learned to manage boats,
and wondrous are the tales told over
winter 5 o'clock tea tables about strug
gles with bass of sice and sagacity, of
Jolly blue fishing parties and of trolling
excursions, so the Jointed rod becomes
part of the lu«rsai?e. The crabbing net Is
never forgotten when the summer play
things are packed, for It is easily carried'
•bout. Among the cumbersome objects
In the sporting outfit Is the little paddle
with which the athletic girl piles her
birch bark canoe about lake and stream.
Although the picturesque craft must per
force be left permarenfly In the camping
region, Its owner regards the paddle as
chief amousst tUe ornaments of ber city
ars really expert sailors and able to
handle or at least take command of a
yacht In a manner calculated to elicit
compliment!) from the most pessimistic
of old salts. Dark blue flannel is still
the favorite material for the utility
yachting costume, imute smart with much
sliver or gold tinsel braiding and anchor
•ngraved buttons. The skirts uro necas
sarily modestly voluminous. Much di
versity Is noticed In the Jacket designs.
One of these Is modeled somewhat on
the lines of the reefer coat and worn over
a rough silk blouse, while another strik
ingly resembles a pea jacket, but is not
so cumbersome, as the seasoned yachts
womnu provides herself with a long,
loose, salt spray-proof coat that Is suffi
ciently heavy to resist the chill of an
ordinary high wind.
Noil'« enter* of Modified Sim.
To accompany the oilskin Jacket which
the yschting woman often dons when
taking her turn at the tiller are modified
versions of the sou'wester, skilfully per
forated with airholes and secured to the
fair skipper's head by means of a water
proof silk veil, similar to those used for
motoring. This Is tied over the hat
crown and ears, and, going twice around
"den," oft dubbed the "wigwam," If she
has been able to collect even a half dozen
choice npcclmens of aboriginal handicraft.
In the. list of things with handles la
tbe riding whip, the hunting crop and a
silver-mounted fox brush, which «be re
gards as a mascot, lint there Is one evi
dence of the modern girl's diversions
which ahe places amongst the baggage of
her younger brother. This Is nothing
lesa unsightly than the basoball bat, for.
truth to tell, the American maiden, hav
ing developed speed on the tennis court,
would fain test her prowess as a base
runner, and thoße who have witnessed
evidences of her fleetness assert tliat It
Is not to b<» sneered at.
> In direct , contrast to . the • golf , (ticks,
th» baseball • bats, , the , whips,; rods and
' paddles >of ; th« energetic wanner girl are
the accessories, of bar ■ sisies. : ftio languid
the neck, is knotted beneath the chin,
giving the right amount of soft fluffiness
to offset the hardening effect of the oil
skin below ' and above the face. The
sou'wester, o£, course, Is not a ghore
going hat, for then the fair skipper. Ilka
sailors the world over. Is anxious to look
her best, and exchanging her blue suit
for one of pure white flannel, tops It with
a replica of the navy officer's cap or a
stiff brimmed regulation "sailor" bearing
the yacht's name on its ribbon band.
Confection* for Canoeing.
Usually canoeing Is so mild a sport—si
followed by the average summer girl—
that one may step Into a canoe without
giving much attention to the question of
gnrb, beyond taking care that the skirt
of the duck, pique or linen shirtwaist or
jumper suit be not too long. In order to
comfortably handle a paddle the blouse
should be loose, the sleeves short and
the neck low. The canoeing hat should
shade the eyes, and be of a shape that is
easily pinned to the coiffure, for obvious
ly a canoeist cannot wield both hatpins
and paddle at one and the same time. .
Because! of the strain upon the waist
when paddling the one piece frock Is most
advisable as the model to bo selected
wjien planning a costume that Is to be
used solely for booting
Summer Coaching: Toggery.
Simple lines are followed In the sever*
ly tailored linens, and piques used tstr
coaching toggery by the feminine horse
woman who Is sufficiently expert with
the ribbons to undertake the driving of
a four-in-hand or a tandem. She will
have no extra fold to trammel her move
ments In stepping to nnd from her high
seat, and, therefore, the skirt of her tan
or taupe-colored linen ■ must escape | the
ground by fully two Inches, be slightly
gored and prominently stitched, but other
wise practically untrlramed. The ' Prince
Chap Jacket is one of the most popular
models followed in the building of driving
suits, as it affords perfect liberty to the
arms, but If a woman be not of willowy
slnnderuess, she may prefer the half-fit
ting mannish cutaway, with its stiff col
lar and Beau Brummel bow accessories.
HI.II. ik Hahlta and lints.
The summer riding habit Is quite ns
often of linen and mohair as of the erst
while conventional cloth, and while waists
are still so snug of fit and severe of line
as to make a very young girl look reed
slim, there have been marked improve
ments in skirts. One of these Is Its
shortening, for to such proportions has
the one-time flowing equestrienne skirt
been Rhaven that it now scarcely covers
the rider's high-topped -boots. The beauty
of the divided riding skirt Is that Us
shape, supposing the wearer uses ft side
saddle. Is rarely suspected, even when the
equestrienne has dismounted, as much of
the fulness Is plaited at the center of
th« waistband, front and back. Sailors
are still much user] as summer riding
hats and are made more becoming to the
faces of women past their first youth, by
being decorated and their lines Boftened
by veil crown swathlngs.
"mull Girl* and I.Hrnr Bowa.
The small girl who learns to ride as
well at to master every other out-of-door
sport more readily than her grown-up sis
ters does not bother about a bat at all
when taking her riding lesson. She
simply clings to the big pink, blue, yel
low or green taffeta bow, which ties her
curls back from her brow, and thus learns
to canter, trot and pace undisturbed by
the state of her hat, her hair or her com
plexion.
lady. who yawns through the Bummer <f ■
thinking of little else save her bridge
clubs and books. For her use solely fls
the small portable tent, with open sides, .
from which she peers through her lorg- :'£
nette at golf and tennis matches. It even
follows her carriage to the polo. grounds, !y
for Mtladl gets weary of Bitting In one f
position. Far more picturesque than ■ the .'
portable tent Is the hooded "wind chair -
of brown willow, which Is transported to ;,
the bathing beach at the "fashionable" ' ■•
noontide hour that Its owner may com
fortably, and without danger to her com- j
plexion, watch her morn energetic sisters :
disport themselves In the waves. ■ , '.•:■* »
ii m m
FASHION NOTES.
Empire tops of a Hover , embroidery ". J
are used for night drosses, which are so 'J
easily made that even a tyro may. at- v
tempt them. The flouncing Is so placed "
that the edge shall be uppermost, and '\
thus no neck finishing Is requisite. The "
four widths of the gown proper' are un. f ;^<
gored, but those In the back arc slightly
sloped at the ' bottom to form,' a \ little -v
train. The short puffed sleeves are wholly , ■
of embroidery flouncing, so gathered Into
the arm sice that their . scalloped ' edges I,'
terminate at the elbow, where, they are ';.
shirred with a running ribbon. .
A pretty finish for a simple colored
blouse Is to have a matching collar nnrt v
front frill of heavy white net edged with •
the material of the garment..The pointed-...j,
edged Gibson stock should be piped ands/;
trimmed with the colored • fabric, and »•'•
quarter-Inch band should:edge a: length ;.',".
of white net, which. should then ho nnr- -
rowly knife-pleated onto a strip of:lawn4,
and tacked to the blouse" front. Of course.?*
" sin accessories are not, to i be'sent with -s,
the blouse to the laundry, but the frill V
may readily be washed when ripped apart
cud the stock easily, cleaned with gaaolln* ■
: or «some similarchome!treatment, .Jy^j —