Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel], August 02, 1908, Image 61

About Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
Magazine Section
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MOTORING with
DAME FASHION
Ihe Dressier Type of Automobile Garb - Rubberized Garments for More Prac
tical Wear - Pongees in Higk Favor - Novelties in Motor Headwear.
The motor car, beloved vehicle of all
good Americans, and foreigners, too, for
that matter, has proved v menace to the
prosperity of the summer resort society
reporter. Before large and comfortable
cars came Into general use tit the fashion
able watering places the lender of fashion
and of society was usually to be relied
upon to do a certalu amount of enter
taining, but since she has learned to mo
tor for motoring's sake, rather than to
travel long distances In a short space of
time, she hus ceased to entertain. She
Infinitely prefers to spend a summer's aft
ernoon In taking a run of 80 miles, more
or less, in her comfortable car than to
squabble over a bridge table in a warm
drawing-room. And she does not give
dinners at her cottage, because her car
ACCESSORIES OF THE MOTOR TOILETTE.
Of Mich vast Importance and propor
tions Is thp motoring veil that It seems
almost unfair to term It an accessory.
Yet It actually Is one of the minor de
tails of the motor toilette, luasmuch aa
it Is bo frequently changed In the course
of a week's tour. The woman who trav
els with but one small cup or hat thor
ougblv appreciates tbe value of having
on hand a supply of fresh veils of vari
ous kinds. When tbe sun's rays beat
fiercely upon her face she knows that a
madder brown chiffon or silk-thread veil
will ward oft tan, freckles and sunburn.
But If she wishes to be absolutely im
mune—and has the courage necessary to
face unflinchingly a critical world—she
would better choose a veil that is frankly
cardinal. White veils are deemed ex
ceedingly smart and certainly are becom
ing, but they are scarcely any protection
from the nun aud should only be worn
In the evening or to conceal the hat when
tbe wearer is dining at a club or some
public place. Such veils are often of real
lace, of lace bordered net or of elaborate
ly embroidered chiffon. They look espe
cially well with a white crepe de chine,
satlu or twilled silk motoring coat.
Ne»t in importance to tbe veil are tbe
goggles. These are frankly ugly and
often disfiguring, but, like most unpleas
ant thing*. »re exceedingly valuable.
Borne of^toeui are skeletonized affairs
Los Angeles Sunday Herald Supplement
will carry her to the cftntry club, where
she may dine with ner*frlends and leave
them uo soon as they begin to bore her.
Dame Ffinlilon'a Dinner Coat.
It Is because she so coiAtnntly dines out
that Dame Fashion devotes a great deal
of thought—and. Incidentally, money—to
her evening motor cont. This must be
warm enough to protect her from the chill
winds which sometimes arise toward mid
night, and It must be of a delicate tint,
but not so light that the slightest speck
of dust will show upon It. Also. It must
be ornate, and always It must become the
wearer. Therefore, she Is apt to select
pule gray, light blue or pastel green
crepe de chine or twilled silk, made over
the lightest of India silk linings, the bet-
with the narrowest of leather nose
bridges, and others are collapsible aud
built on Bilk gauze. In violent contrast
and calculated to send a Binall child Into
hysterics, art the goggles set into a
leather half mask. Full masks are not
half bo terror-Inspiring and they also
possess the merit of protecting tbe main
portion of the countenance. To protect
the goggles 'rom damage when not in
actual use there are provided rather for
midable-looking eases of square or semi
oval form, which may be strapped over
the shoulders, If desired. Usually the
enthusiastic tourist has a second shoulder
strap to support tbe up-to-date camera,
for not only does he mean to cover as
much territory as is possible, but to
carry back with him Illustrations of the
scenes through which he has passed.
More diversity exists amongst gauut
lets, worn alike by both men and women,
than au unlultluted person could well
Imagine. This U due to the fact that a
wldur range of materials Is now employed
for them than was formerly the case. As
a rule mou prefer band-coverings lv tun.
or black leather, with or without an ad
justable wrist utrop, but always with
heavy back stitching, usually In self
color These are best for bard usage at
all times, but during exceedingly hot
weather gurntlfts of llnle, with yalin and
iualde of flutters kidllued. are Dieferabla.
ter to protect her toilette, nnd In such .
shnpe tlint the chiffon ami Inces, which
U Is designed to protect, may not be
crushed. To do this ishe must depart
somewhat from the accepted motor coat
models nud adopt one uf the designs
known us the modified Umpire wraps.
These have long, loose sleeves cut In
ono with the garment proper, but gath
ered Into a wrist hand, so that In ense
of Occident the wearer may not be help
lessly eutuugled In the folds of her wrap.
Hoods Are Practical.
Most of these garments—they are
neither coats nor capes—have hoods on
the order of the deep, round head cov
erings, with shirred frills, known as the
Red Riding Hood. While designed as an
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ornament, or rather us a relief to the
plainness of the gnrnjent's baok, they
are practical accessories, and may be
drawn over the coiffure In case the wind
Is a trifle fresh, The hair Is ordinarily
protected with the usual lace or liberty
■ Ilk scarf. Sometimes the hood Is not
attached to the coat, but Is finished with
wide scarf strings. These cross beneath
the chlu, and are then drawn flehu-wlse
over the chest, the better to protect the
wearer of a decollete corsage.
Of Cirrliiio-n rnp Order.
Because Dame Fashion makes formal
culls Id th« motor vehicle Bbc must needs
have a suitable wrap for such occasions.
This Is somewhat on the lines of the
ordinary carriage wrap, but with sleeve*
that are of a more defined character. It
may be of light-weight broadcloth, In
pearl gray or some pastel shade, trimmed
with black satin pipings, collar and cuff
insets, with oriental embroideries, with
cretonne applications, soutache outlined
or with gold bullion. Many satin car
riage wraps of this character are worn.
Quite young matrons favor shrimp pink
and salmon, relieved with darker tones of
those colors, black or white. For de
butantes are wraps In deep shades of
coral and In delicate blues, usually carry-
Ing the suggestion of black and often
having large gold button trimmings. But
the girl's carriage coat Is rarely so
loose or »o long as Is that worn by a
matron, for If she has not an un
limited wardrobe she uses such a wrap
for a variety of occasions.
The Omnipresent WiUtooat.
Even In motor coats the fashionable
waistcoat has gained a foothold. This,
of course, applies only to the garments
of the semidressy order, such as are seen
at race meets, open-air horse shows and
polo matches, whither the fashionable
world goes In automobiles. As the women
In the guy throng move about constantly
between the parking spaces, the grand
staml and the tea pavilion, they are nat
urally careful to wear an outer garment
that is rather ornate and so constructed
that it shall rather emphasize than con
ceal the beauty of the gown woin be
neath it. Such wraps are rarely of full
length, and they tire usually on Empire
lines, with loose fronts parting over a
brocaded satin or gold-einbroiden'd waist
coat. On some of them the color scheme
of the vest Is repeated In the rolling col
lar, turn-back cuffs, military chenille
trimmings and cabocuons.
Checked Coats Smart.
Checked motor coats have ever been a
fad of those women who go in Btrougly
for mannish effects In tailored garnieu't.
Those coats designed especially for sum
mer use are in a variety of fabrics, sucn
as the rubberised, mercerized cottons, in
black and white or gray aud white, with
collars Inlaid >vlth black cloth, silk it
velvet. Sometimes they are attractively
brightened with a touch of high color,
such as red, blue or green, used In Uou
vt the black. Of the same class are tha
rubberized silks, In black, brown, dark
green, blue or red, with white, having a
en tin collar of contrasting color. These
ccuts are invariably made to us closely
af> possible resemble the masculine effects
In that they are double breasted, clew
ing with moderately sized bone buttons;
havo conventional sleeves set plainly Into
the Wide arm-slxe and hip pockets of geu
ei-ous proportions In addition to the small
one, set diagonally across the left breast
and designed to hold tbe handkerchief.
Sleeves and Trimming".
It Is a fact worthy of note that the
best class of motor coats follow certain
hard-and-fast rules of design. When of
the mannish cut trimmings are of the
simplest, but whenever one of them
shows a radical departure In the shape
of sleeves and their treatment rather
elaborate trimmings nnd widely contrast
ing tints appear elsewhere on the coat.
The semltailoreil checked garments show
this feature to a marked extent. Some
of those having the sleeves whose uppers
are cut In one, with the body and the
under portion fitted smoothly Into the
lower part of the Japanese aiui-slze, are
most elaborately decorated with broad
bias bands of black satin, Hercules or
fancy silk braid, pipings or Van Dykes
of high color and ponderous-looking but
tons of metal or jet.
Pongee a Predominating Material.
The vogue of pongee as a material suit
able for motor garments has been steud
lly Increasing from season to season. This
is because tt is to be secured in all the
fashionable shades —in addition to the
neutral tint, which Ib, perhaps, most of
all popular —and because It lends ltgelf
so perfectly to the rubberlislng process,
which makes It impervious to the "quar
ter-of-au-hour" summer showers wblch
fall alike upon the Just and unjust
For' Purely Practical Purposes.
For purely practical purposes and for
general utility, the natural colored pongee
coat Is undoubtedly the best choice for
the woman who lias not money to spend
lavishly. Such a garment is always more
satisfactory in the long run If It be in
one tone, depending for its smart appear
ance upon the perfection of its cut and
tailoring and the adaptability of the model
to the figure which it covers—or adorns.
Some of the smartest of the new pongee
coats have every senm strap finished and
doubljr stitched. They show a decided
leaning toward a plain setting of tbe
sleeve Into the armslze, although for a
very stout woman the plaited or shirred
sleeve top is advisable. Oannents of this
type should be quite as long as the dress,
that the effect of severe simplicity may be
the better maintained.
Lons-tour Outfits.
For the long, hard motoring tours which
so many delicately reared women now un
dertake, any lightweight cloth or silk coat
is out of the question. This is particular
ly true In the caße of American tourists,
for here the climatic changes are so sud
den and violent that in tbe couree of a
few houn a swiftly moving vehicle may
run its occupants from a region of almost
tropical temperature Into one that un
pleasantly suggests Alaska. For tills rea
son many women who are determined to
follow the fortunes of the car while it has
a wheel to travel with order coats entirely
of leather. These are not so cumbersome
as one would imagine their being, for they
are liberally provided with air holes.
Some women still prefer the leather skirt
and Norfolk Jacket to the long separate
coat, and these really are advisable if the
car Is filled to its capacity with pas
sengers aud only a limited amount of lug
gage can be carried.
Capes Are Convenient.
Although the motoring cape Is regarded
la some quarters as a rather dowdy gar
ment, it Deed not be so If correctly cut
nnd tailored. It Is, moreover, an Ideal
accessory for a lightweight npnrubber
lsed coat, as It will furnish precisely
the amount of additional warmth about
the shoulders and waists and may be easily
discarded just before the wearer Is ready
Women's motor gloves are on practical
ly the same lines as those worn by tbelr
"lords and masters," but usually devel
oped in heavy kid, castor or wash suede.
When they are made of lisle, with kid
palms, the tops are frequently of a match
lug pelt. White gauntlets look wonder
fully modish, but being usually of a
rough-surfaced pelt, they soil readily and,
therefore, are not to be recommended.
Puttee legging, which are chiefly worn by
the stronger sex, are of various lengths,
some of them barely covering the calves,
and others reaching nearly to the knees.
They come in genuine pigskin in tan or
black, with matching or bright metal
buckles, In grain leather, In browns,
black and gray and of smooth calfskin
in the same shades. Usually the legglna
match the color of the shoes, the gloves
and the cap, and these accessories har
monise with the coat or its trimmings.
The toilet box, also of pigskin, enameled
leather or smooth calf. Is a most compact
affair, designed to accommodate a variety
of articles In a minimum of space. The
several necessary brushes, the combs, the
soap box, sponge bag, the scissors, but
tonhook and manicure set—all have their
Individual place and must be accurately
fitted Into It, else the cover will not close
properly. In addition to the absolutely
necessary conveniences, a womau a travel
ing cane also accommodates her huusewtfe.
I August 2, 1908
to alight from the car. With some of
the pongee touring conts are ordered
leatuer-Hiied shoulder capes, having storm
collars or hoods. These arc exceedingly
convenient, and when folded tnke up
scarcely any car space. Capes ar«
also the most practical of all garment*
for the Invalid or elderly woman who
relies upon the motor as a vehicle In
which to take her airing.
Latitude Allowable In Hats.
Although the small, closely fitting hat
Is the most reliable for motoring pur
poses, It is not generally becoming, and
some women positively refuse to wear it.
While realizing that headgear of the
"Merry Wl'low" dimension or of the
Gainsborough type Is absolutely oat of the
question, they compromise by adopting
the inverted bowl shapes. These are In
nnlteiy better wlud-resisters than the
hats having straight or upturned brims,
and if their materials me of the flexiblo
sort, they may quite reasonably be es
sayed as the veil may be so arraugfd
that under ordinary conditions the hat
will not cause Its wearer the least trou
ble. Taffeta, pongee and satin are best
of all materials from which, to evolve
puffy crowned and frilly brimmed
chapeaux. These may be of a shade to
match the coat or of a widely contrast
ing color.
Little Straw Bonnets.
Motoring fashions are quite as likely
as any others to bring back to femlulne
favor the long eclipsed little bonnet
which set flatly upon tbe bead, fitted
closely over the crown anil extended Into
slender polnta Just behind the cur». If
any woman has in her wardrobe such
an ancient confection, all that will be
necessary to transform it into an up-to
date motor bonnet is to give it a top
bow and strings which, passing and«r
the chin, baiter fashion, tie at the uape
of the neck. Or the may economise on
ribbon and drape the bonnet's crown
with a chiffon or grenadine veil, shirring
it thickly at the ear tabs. One long fud
will then serve as a face protection and
the other, drawn about the throat, will
firmly hold the headgear in position.
Caps Are Piquant.
Surmounting a pretty face, there Is
notling more piquant locking than a
sinal. cap, which, to be ultra smart,
should precisely match the coat In ma
terial and trimming. Such raps are on
the same general lines as those worn by
men, but it behooves any woman who
wishes to prevent her hair from falling
out to see to It tnat there bib pleat;
of airhole* In the crown. The most favor
able feature about the puffy crowned,
still vlsored capi Is that they may r*
adjusted to almost any sort of coiffure.
This compliment cannot, however, bo
truthfully bestowed upon toques, whlcb
need the support of a crown scheme of
hair-dressing.
Trimming- for Toqncs.
Upon tbe trimming of a toque depends
much of Its smart appearance. These
hats ara now exceedingly small and so
shaped that they follow the outline of
the head. Their trimmings are not put
on in an aggressively upstaudlng atti
tude, but are arranged to lie flatly
against the sides or upon the crown.
Wide velvet ribbons, slightly twisted, go
ing around the base of the crown and
terminating with long looped bows at
the front or one side, make a tallorUli
looking toque adornment, but a great
many short wings are employed a* welt
as satin swathlngs, which are held In
place with straw or fancy meial caboco,
ona.
so that I accidents *to * apparel | may b)« a
temporarily repaired, and she sometimes
manages to ' crowd \ into It, several . extra, j
handkerchiefs or a pair of cobwebby. silk
stockings, for every member of the weaker |S
sex appreciates the comfort of fresh hos- ,
iery.
Nearly every ; table utensil ■ Imaginable .*,
goes Into the' circumscribed space of some "*
of the f new.* combination J luncheon jj and EJ
tea kits of pigskin, ton sole leather," enam- :
eled linen or white wicker.'.They Include
a service for four to "six persona and are
made of nickel, copper or sliver : plate. lg
The ait-tlght bottles and flanks are wicker- - ; :i
encased and nickel-topped,, and the cups.;,
are < of the daintiest of fine china. . Son*
of the kits are In the form of flat, oblon) .
boxes, i which' must <be carefully store*T- .
away I beneath .' the car seat > lest an ;un *
wary masculine foot . puncture the ) topi ;,
but others roll up Into almost flat cases,
which may be safely strapped at the rej|lW
of the vehicle. »•>'■ ? -■ ••.; -;'.>-.'"-"V i'-I^*
«? If there, is sufficient space la the call*
and there is any likelihood that the party; .
will lunch al fresco, It Is a good plan to
supplement' the v.. luncheon ?> kit '• with »«;..♦
square ' of ' white oilcloth, •- which 3 will j,.
serve as a table upon which the luncheon |„
may be spread. .< It is never safe to under- r
take to serve a meal of. this sort while ,.
seated In i the car, tas I the i alcohol lamp
Is liable to be overturned or the contents ;
cf a bottle be spilled upon a cushion. jjgßgg