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Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911, January 31, 1909, Image 35

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85042462/1909-01-31/ed-1/seq-35/

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fWM I V* --> '*^E_?W ' Blue Feather Turban
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Embroidered Velvet Turban
Photo, by Reutlinger.
SKATING costumes are essential
in every thorough winter outfit,
for both indoor and outdoor skat
. ing are fashionable this winter.
Consequently there must be new
models presented from which to
choose one that is smart and becoming.
The practical ideal is, perhaps, not so
closely adhered to as it was when there
was only the outdoor skating to be con
• sidered, for rink skating permits of an en
tirely different style of dress, 'and the
picturesque and elaborate can enter in
where formerly only the practical and I
perhaps rather severe fashions were con-1
sidered possible.
There is so much criticism anent the
styles of this winter that no gown es
capes, and the conservative minded are
loud in their denunciations of the over
trimmed, all too fanciful skating cos
tumes. ;At the same time the woman
attired in one of the very newest velvet
or cloth gowns, even though it may be
somewhat elaborate, is quite convinced
she is looking her best and can defy any <
criticism in consequence.
Velvet, velveteen and corduroy have al
ways been popular materials for the
picturesque style of skating costume and
are acknowledged by every one to be the
most becoming of all fabrics.' This sea
son there are quite a number of new
colors and new shades of old colors. In
blue there are two or three apparently
new shades, while gray and light brown
were surely never seen before in just the!
same effect.
The new skirts are charming. They fit
closely the figure, but are given sufficient
flare below the hips to allow of plenty of
fulness and swing—a too scant skirt is
ugliest of all for skating; then just around
the hem there is considerable width; and
the width is emphasized by the trimming,
which now consists of fur, as for the mo
ment fur trimmed skirls are considered
extremely smart There is one style with
two bands about a foot apart, another
with just one band and two or three other
designs, one of which consists of the two
bands with the addition of cross pieces
of fur. The length of the skirts is care
fully considered also—short enough to
avoid every danger of the skates catching
and yet not so exaggeratedly short as to
look awkward and conspicuous.
All in one piece, or so fashioned as to
appear as though cut in one, are many of
the smartest gowns, for the length of the
coat is a serious matter when every addi
tional inch is dreaded, and yet short jack
ets are not fashionable. The long coat is
not extremely practical, for it gives addi
tional weight that is. not to be desired,
the knickerbockers and skirt being all
that is necessary in the way of warmth,
while the short jacket or waist protects
the upper part of the body.
Cloth Trimmed with Fur.
Cloth costumes this winter are most at
tractive, and there are many women who
contend that cloth is far better than velvet
or corduroy for skating costumes, the
cloth possessing so much more warmth in
itself, while the other fabrics have to be
made warm by so much lining and inter
lining, all efforts being in the direction
of as much warmth with as little weight
as can be obtained without flying in the
race of fashion's dictates. Red cloth
trimmed with the skunk fur so very popu
lar this winter makes up most effectively
but. there are shades of blue and green
that are m constant demand. These are
trimmed with the same fur or with bands
of mink. The most costly of all the fur
trimmed gowns are made of velvet and
trimmed ..with chinchilla. A gray velvet
with this fur is exquisite in coloring and,
almost without exception, is becoming,
All fur skating costumes are to be
ranked with the most costly, for as a
rule the unborn Persian lamb, the finest
of baby ...caracul or sealskin is chosen
This , year there are so many imitations
of sealskin, real fur dyed and dressed to
look like.seals, but quite inexpensive in
comparison. The one' piece gown is the
best in this style of costume, or the long
fitted coat that entirely covers any gown
worn beneath it. " -
"There is little of the practical but much
of the picturesque, in. some of the gowns
to be seen at any .of the indoor rinks in
Europe or America, but there is an im
mense amount of charm about them, while
the cut'and hang of the skirt makes it
seem 'entirely different from the short
-' .'■ : -' -' . .-■ ' , - .-_. -■.
' - " -:
again be fitted out for another season. To
some women the long unbroken lines of
the princess style are far more becoming
than a short waisted effect. The costume
| shown in figure ly is admirably suited
to the slim, fashionable figure of the
I modern woman. ; - The feature deserving
particular study is the revers arrange
ment, which suggests the Directoire mode,
an| is, in fact, a delightful blending of the
Cloth arid Velvet Costume
Photo, by Reutlinset.
I skirt worn for any other purpose.. A
skirt of cloth or a plain velvet with a
! fancy coat of brocaded velvet trimmed
Return'of the Princess.
THEfItE is every evidence that the
princess gown will give the now fash
ionable Directoire style- a close run
ning in the spring, when wardrobes ,will
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Los ■':■ Angeles ; y Sunday HERALD
New Models for Skat
ing Costumes Are Both
Original and Becoming
; with fur and worn with a fur toque to
correspond won admiration last season
| and has been copied again this winter
two styles. The breadth of-the revers
emphasizes the slenderness of the tigure
from the bust down, and there is a grace
ful drop or slant to them which cannot
fail to give good lines to a gown.
Braided bands applied in parallel rows
trim the revers and shoulders at the back.
A novel idea in strapping is introduced on
the sleeves. They a*_ cut in the prevail
ing long, straight fashion, without tucks,
but from a point just below the elbow to
the wrist narrow bands of the cloth spaced
half their width apart are stitched on and
crochet buttons ornament the centre of
each band. There are more straps cross
ing the back above the waist line and
coming forward under the arms to termi
nate at the sides. This gown fastens
down the left side under vertical bands
of the material. t Such a gown could be
combined with a coat of the same cloth
and the costume be made a serviceable
three piece one. It is not too much
trimmed to be' worn under a fur coat.
Later in the season it could be accompa
nied by a fur scarf of rather ample
proportions. The under fittings worn
with this season's style of garments are
far warmer than they used to be, so that
women can dispense with long, heavy
coats on moderate days without running
the risk of catching cold.
For a cloth afternoon gown this model
would make up particularly well, and in
some of the silk and wool materials it
would look simple yet distinctly modish.
Other ways of ornamenting the revers
could be planned, but one should keep
them as plain and trim looking as pos
sible. '///:
Directoire Afternoon Coat.
IT is only now and then that one sees a
long plain coat reaching to within a
I few inches of the ground, yet when a
garment of this style is well cut and
j suitably set off by a fashionable hat every
woman who sees it feels in her heart that
she must possess a long coat. We have
had so many half length coats and coats
with slanting lines that a genuinely sim- 1
pie Dipctoire one is pleasing, if only on
Velvet and Fur Costume
Design by Gabriel Nicolet
with just a few smajl modifications to
make it up to date. The original model
was in a' brilliant shade of blue; this
year it has appeared in gray and green,
but with the same lines and general smart
effect. A black velvet costume trimmed
with black fox fur and worn with a
black velvet toque with soft but high
crown of red velvet has been also popu
lar and has been copied in velveteen and
corduroy at much less expense. After all,
account of the contrast. But there is
more than the contrast to recommend the
charming afternoon coat marked figure
2. In the first place, the cape and revers
are a bit out of the ordinary, and they
convert the upper part of the coat into a
dressy one. The right side is brought
Over the'left one quite cleverly and is
fastened under a picturesque Directoire
buckle which holds the upper end of a
black satin sash. The other end is fin
ished with a long silken tassel. .' -• yvy
Just back of the line of the closing are
Cloth and Velvet Costume
Design by Gabriel Nicolet
although it may be an age of luxury, at
the same time never was it so possible
for the woman of moderate means to look
well dressed at comparatively small cost
•There are good colors to be found. in
fabrics that will wear quite long enough
to be desirable. There are so many dif
ferent styles of trimming, even in fur,
that a careful search will discover bar
gains, and there never were, so many
models displayed in shops and fashion
rows of stitching done in a series of
scallops. These start at the cape and
finish a little moire than half way down
the coat. Fewer buttons than are ordi
narily used on fashionable garments dec
orate this coat In fact, there are ex
actly two on each side, these .being of
silk drawn over round wooden moulds
with some embroidery done in black and
colors to give a relieving touch to the
otherwise sombre costume.
The Napoleon collar is of embroidered
silk. Instead of leaving the space be
tween the ends of the straight standing
collar bare or fastening them together
with a silk tie the lace stock and guimpe
of the waist are allowed to show, the
white providing a pleasing effect with
the dark cloth and velvet surrounding it.
Sometimes this J space is covered with a
jewelled buckle or clasp, but that is a bet
ter style for dressier coats.
Net and Cloth Waists.
NET and cloth waists solve for a large
number of women the problem of
the tailored suit's separate waist, for
while this season one piece gowns have
largely taken the place of the suits with
separate waists, there is still need for the
suit and. separate waist costume for
many occasions when it alone is conven
ient and- suitable. The possibility of
making the. same gown serve two pur
poses— that> of the rather plain -tailored
costume and also of the rather dressy
afternoon costumeis too- important to
many women to be disregarded, and the
separate waist alone makes this possible.
Of course, under such conditions the
skirt of the costume must be long and the
coat not too plain. _
The main idea which. is now considered i
in relation to the separate, waist is that
it shall be made of such materials and
along such lines as will make it seem a 1 .
part of the costume and. will make the 1;
observer a little uncertain as to whether i
it is in fact a separate waist and skirt or
a one piece gown. The colors ; are there
fore exactly those of the costume and the
model is chosen to carry out the design of
the entire gown. -
Among materials used for this purpose
Blue Feather Turban
t Photo, by Rcutlingcr.
. Hats are absorbing much time and
thought, and what are to be the next mil
linery novelties is a problem. For the
moment the toques and the turbans are
receiving most unanimous approval and
certainly they are becoming and smart.
There is nothing prettier or more suitable
for skating, than the small hat, and if it
seems too flat or dull, then the high, nar
| row feathers (not ostrich tips) and stiff
net continues to be the most popular, as
it is light and comfortable for wear in
the overheated bouses and combines well
with cloth, satin or braid, the favorite
trimming materials for such' waists. The
net is selected to match the costume or
dyed to match it, and the cloth trimming
is the same material as is used in the
skirt. When satin is used it also is of
the same shade, and sometimes the
chemisette or collar is of cream lace, but
usually this lace is also dyed to match
the waist
In figure 3 is shown a bodice made of
net cloth and soutache in brown of two
shades to match the costume. The net
of the bodice is laid over a chiffon lining
of deep orange, and the chemisette of
lace is in a lighter shade of brown than
the cloth and net
New Designs in Braiding.
BRAIDING of the right sort in the
right place gives a distinction to a
costume that much more elaborate
aigrettes can be relied upon to give the
smarter appearance that is considered so
desirable. The long haired furs arc the
more popular this season in hats, but
there are a few of the broadtail and cara
cul --still to be noticed; sealskin has never
been classed with the long haired furs,
but the imitation sealskin is, generally
speaking, longer than the real, and it is
probably for that reason thin year that
the fashionable fur toques and turbans
include sealskin. They are many distinct
| varieties in these hats, the round, large
shapes having been until now the smart
est, but just within a short time have ap
peared larger, more irregular shapes in
fur that have met with instant approval.
They also are enlivened by the big curled
feathers, the well known Mephistopheles
feathers, the height of which reaches be
yond ' the bounds of reason in many in
stances. -
Toques of Swansdown.
. Swansdown, white and dyed, and mar J
about toques are charmingly becoming
and are worn, as are the fur turbans, with |
skating and walking costumes, but they
are really not so suitable. Then there
are the 'fascinatingly becoming soft
shaped hats in these same shapes but
made of cloth or velvet or a combination
of both these materials. Embroidered
velvet combined with plain velvet or with
cloth is extremely effective, while for
evening the velvet toques and turbans'
with bands of jet are more ltd more in
favor. There is no style of hat so gen
erally becoming as the turban nor one
capable of so many different effects. In
its harsh, uncompromising outline it is,
however, to be avoided, for the same linos
that are becoming and soft when shaped
artistically with material of becoming
color and texture are most trying and
hard if left to themselves in a too distinct
outline. A stiff brim covered, with velvet
is, for instance, too hard and unbecoming,
while the same brim covered with velvet
put on in soft effect is invariably becom
ing. For this reason the feather and fur
toques are always popular, as of neces
sity they give the soft outline.
i trimming will sometimes fail to do. In
figure 4 is shown a costume which is
trimmed most effectively with braid. The
quantity of braiding used on this gown
is very moderate, but the elegance of the
design and the appropriateness of its
placing on the costume make as admirable
an effect as if a much larger quantity of
braid were used.
The costume shown is of blue cloth,
with braiding in black, black satin lapels
and a crushed girdle of black satin. The
chemisette inside the lapels is hot in real
ity separate from the bodice, but is made
to look as if it were by the arrangement
of the lapels or collars of satin. This lit
tle chemisette is braided in a' most effec
tive fashion on the cloth of the costume.
The model is also shown with this chemi
sette made of net of the same color as
the costume and braided in the same
Much more becoming than the plain
cloth sleeves 'and. yet carrying out the
same lines in general are those of this
model—perfectly plain and tight fitting
in fact but with braided cuff and the
braiding on,the upper part of the sleeves
connected toy a row of buttons down the
outside of the sleeve. The woman with
narrow shoulders and thin arms will find
that the curse of the plain, tight sleeve
is quite taken off by this braiding of the
upper part of the sleeve, which adds
much to the apparent breadth of the
shoulder without for a moment destroy
ing the much desired flat, close fitting
look beloved of the present style.
For the woman whose arms are unat
tractively overplump the braiding may
also be put to use. A vertical arrange
ment of braid will for such a woman be
found of great help in creating an illu
sion of graceful lines. y:

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