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AT no time In a girl's life do her
gowns receive such hard and constant wear as ring the school years, when day in day out the same frock, or, rather, same style of dress, must be donned and worn steadily from rising un til after luncheon, if not throughout the entire day. Later on when she has left school and her day is not lived by abso lute routine a simple house gown may be put on in the morning to be changed later for a smart reception costume or a walk ing suit may be worn for a few hours, ! but never throughout an entire day. The school girl, however, dons her street suit as early as seven or half-past seven in the morning and wears either this or a pretty morning gown under her fur coat or rough ulster, except Sundays or holidays. Small wonder, then, that her wardrobe re quires refurbishing and generally replen ishing in the middle of the winter quite ns much as does a debutante's ballroom trousseau. ''■■-■ ;'; Simple gowns of the one material throughout, made somewhat on the order of the shirt waist dress, are dis tinctly more fashionable nowadays than any shirt waist and skirt combination, even though the waist be of identical color' with the rest of the costume. As heavy serges and cheviots are so much in vogue this winter, however, especially for every day wear, each suit of this material should have two waists provided for it, one of the serge or cloth itself made up on as thin a foundation as practicable, the other of foulard or crepe de Chine for the warmer days, when a cloth waist is out of the question for indoors. Often a new bodice will save the buying of an entire gown, and at this time of year it is an excellent plan to add one or two new silk or French flannel waists to the outfit, thus tiding over a cloth coat and skirt costume until the spring. WITH growing girls it is seldom feasible to make the one suit or gown serve mote than one year, and for this reason it does not pay to buy for them expensive clothes. It is in finitely better, for example, to lemove the interlining from a winter coat of serge or cloth and by providing one or two new waists for the skirt make the costume serve for school wear throughout the spring than to buy a new school outfit for the brief spring session and lay the win ter costume away for another year. - The average school girl to-day spurns a flannel shirt waist, preferring not to wear even the pretty French flannels which, in their bright colors, are so becoming and Practical Talks by the April Grandmother I( I I AIR can be killed by kindness," I "I paraphrased the April Grand mother as she watched her young est girl descendant, who was vigorously wielding a toilet brush. "It is one thing to observe that good old fashioned rule anent regularly brushing the locks, and quite,another thing to ignorantly be the means of tearing out those locks. Yet that is precisely what is frequently ac complished with the aid of a heavy brush, which, if ' equipped with coarse, stiff bristles, literally rakes Innumerable hairs from the scalp every time it is used. !. "Nearly every young girl imagines that in order.to restore order to her tangled and usually very thick locks the brush is a primary essential. On the contrary, it is not a; really necessary utensil, and in any event should be employed only just before the locks are in a condition to be braided ■or colled. ; The easiest way to straighten . tangled locks is to gradually work the fingers through them from the scalp to the ends, so that when the comb is used it need not encounter obstacles in the for" of matted wads of hair. After the tresses are in good order they may be which can be so satisfactorily laundered. The simple gowns of the lightest weight serge or cashmere are unquestionably most attractive for the schoolroom, but the white wash waists which are still generally worn soil and muss too readily to be smart. Silk is, of course, not very appropriate, but, after ail, the dark col ored crepe de Chine wears extremely well and with simple white collar and cuffs of embroidered linen .. makes an extremely pretty bodice for every day. A great majority of the newest waists, however, are of foulard, the background of the same color as the skirt with which the wo Ist is worn and the white figure lightening the eftect of the whole costume. These foulard waists were first worn last spring, but their popularity did not com mence sufficiently early for their vogue to be in any way hampered. Certainly fou lard is a delightful weight for a separate bodice, and as it is a material which wears excellently and can be cleaned and even washed frequently it is not extravagant even for a school waist. rASH ION'S changes this year are of slow working, and there will not be the radical all destroying alterations of other springs. In 'sep arate waists, for example, the regu lation model fastening down the . front, with a full plaited frill and long, com paratively tight sleeves, the whole re lieved with plain bands of lace or em broidered lawn, will still be worn. The newest models, however, show a. wide shoulder line, somewhat suggesting the Gibson model, so run to the ground a few years back. . These newest waists show the shoulder plait tapering to the waist line,, which, now returned to its normal position, is of noticeably smaller dimen sions than during tho reign of the Empire gown. Small waists of ."wasplike" pro portions are, however, not at all to be de sired, and it is doubtful if that so unat tractive and so sadly unhygienic fad ever returns to favor. There is another change that is des tined to alter completely the appearance of all this season's gowns nnd waists, and this is the Introduction of the double puff or "buffoon" sleeve. As yet, this sleeve is small in width and short in length above a deep cuff, but there is no fore casting to what dimensions the design may attain in the course of the next few . months. Since the narrow effect across the shoulders, occasioned by the tight fit ting sleeve worn lately, is not apt to be becoming to the slender figure of a very young girl, the increased width given by even a small puff sleeve should be wel- j separated into small sections and smoothed by light strokes with a fine, soft brush, whitu should be used solely With the idea of imparting lustre to the hair rather than to free it from dust or dan druff. And unless such brushes are daily freed from r, sprinkled with ammonia, then' thoroughly sunned and dried, they I will become the most unsanitary of all | toilet articles," announced the April Grandmother in solemn tones. , "Bristles afford an .deal anchorage for all manner | of germs, including one which is supposed | to be responsible for that dreadful malady baldness. ' r~\ I "As dust is a foe which threatens the' hair of every girl who lives in a large town, do not be afraid of using plenty of soft water upon the locks, which cannot be kept . clean, and consequently in a, healthy condition, unless washed at least twice each month. But as the quality of | hair differs so radically the right sort of shampoo for each individual can only be determined by consulting a specialist. I For some locks the dry method of cleans- I ing is best, especially if their owner takes cold easily. With a wet shampoo a great many people prefer to use the white of eggs as a cleanser, and quite •as many others consider that there is nothing to equal castile or tar soap in hot rainwater followed by several tepid rinsing waters, LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY 20, 1910; mv v, -* corned among the makers of school girl , fashions. Still another new model shows a bodice made with sleeves all in one piece with the front and back of the waist. This bodice may be quite flat front and back, each one a few degrees cooler than its pre decessor. Methods of drying depend wholly upon the color of the hair. While a golden or Titian blonde should allow the sunshine to do her work, girls who wish to prevent their brown or black locks from taking on a faded, rusty or streaked appearance should carefully avoid the sun shine and have their hair fanned dry. "While a well bred girl would not dream of putting her hands upon her .hair when in the presence of other people, she should form a habit of massaging her scalp whenever she is alone In her own room. ' Massage not onlyarouses circula tion of the blood below the scalp, but helps to ventilate the hair and to free it from particles of dust. ... "A method of treating the hair which, like nearly every good plan. is exceeding ly simple, is to cleanse the scalp each night with witch hazel, massaging it into the cuticle with the finger tips. If this lotion has the effect of making naturally dry hair too fluffy it may be moistened with a few drops of sweet oil rubbed into the roots. But do not experiment with the hair in the hope of improving its tex ture, length or color," warned the April Grandmother, laying her lips lightly upon the crown of her little granddaugh ter's pretty head. "Nature gave you pre cisely i the , sort of locks which most be come you, ana if you' keep them clean and smooth she will cheerfully do the rest of the work," ' AFTERNOON HOUSE FROCKS OF CASHMERE DE SOIE AND CLOTH A PAGE M I .\*§l E 5 'will nil l relieved by only collar and tiny yoke of lace or net and by a four or five inch lace cuff, or if this is too plain of out line to be becoming a frill or jabot of lace or of the material itself laid down one side of the bodice may prove more at tractive. rOR quite young girls suspender and strap dresses are still worn, but the little gowns throughout, with a small yoke and collar of white to keep the dark Good Occupation for Lenten Days THE first trip to Europe! No experi ence in after life will ever compare to the delight of it. When the idea is first suggested as a possibility the ex citement commences, nor does it abate an iota until long after the return, when all the varied bits of marvellous, of amusing, of soul thrilling experiences have been re lated for the hundredth time. It is so much easier to go abroad nowadays than formerly, when travel was so slow and the ocean trip such an ominous undertak ing, that the average girl gets many a trip to Europe even before her school days are over —but still even the much travelled miss of to-day can look back with joy to the first trip taken with a real understand ing of the rare privilege being enjoyed ln viewing the many historic and beautiful I places of the old world. A girl just leaving school or college will undoubtedly derive a keener enjoyment from a foreign trip than at any other time in her life. Her mind is then filled with the stories of great men and great events, with visions of beautiful buildings and world. famous paintings, and she then knows intimately the history of the na tions and the history of art in all its branches, so that travel to her means pure delight at every turn. But for the first trip abroad there should be other preparation besides the actual school study. Nowadays, when a European trip is undertaken almost as casually as a journey to any summer re sort, the route is more apt to be confined to some one or two countries, which are to be seen thoroughly and at leisure, in stead of hurrying through some five or six countries in the space of ' two or three months and obtaining but ( a scant and somewhat confused impression of them all. The present way of spending only two or three months at most on a trip is infinitely more satisfactory than when all Europe had to be crowded into the one trip, even though four, six or even twelve months were given over to sight seeing. Unfortunately, a little sight seeing goes a long way, and the more slowly and rest fully a trip can be taken the greater the pleasure that will be derived from it. , If then a definite trip through one or two countries can be planned well in ad- color of the gown from the face, are un questionably smartest. Instead of being made on any lining, the waist of the gown, which Is made with sleeves and all in one, may be worn over a lawn guimpe, show ing yoke, collar and cuffs of tucked net that can be washed and changed each day if necessary. This same model is seen also to a large extent among afternoon waists of chiffon cloth and net, the de sign in its extreme simplicity being excep tionally good for a young girl's waist. ■ vance every spare moment from the time . the route is first thought out, no matter i how vaguely, can be spent in wholly de . Hghtful preparation which will more than , double the pleasure when the time finally I arrives to start; and even if the proposed , trip should fall through will afford a very . real pleasure. i Before visiting a country then the trav i eller should endeavor to make herself as mi i timate as possible with the people of that ■ country. Its history from its beginning! ' should be studiedand in more than one . bookthat a real familiarity with its peo- 1 i pie may be acquired. Its architecture, Its i paintings, its great men and famous, women should be read of and then books j 1 devoted to each city and town that Is to I . be visited should be acquired. Dates of i important events should be learned and' the birthplaces of renowned characters! remembered so that every little township shall be worth a —for in the old ! I world there is scarcely a hamlet that does not teem with interest because of some great deed that has transpired there or is 1 in some way connected with the life work 1 of some famous man or woman. To give variety to constant study there ore all the fascinating books of travels and I historical novels and romances that have I been written in such numbers, especially ! ' during the last few years, and which; i make such delightful light reading and i , are at the same time really instructive. If a motor tour is to be included in the trip there are motor stories innumerable ' of every country where an automobile can : run, and these books give charming glimpses of the scenery, the manners and customs of the people, and emphasize at 1 the same time each point of special inter ' est historically and In the field of art. . Excellent as guide books, equally to he i recommended for light reading, the mod ern books of travel should be found on every book shelf. All, then, that is necessary to equip i the future traveller for; the shortest or most extended sojourn in foreign lands is access to a well filled library. The girl who hopes definitely to spend the coming summer in such a trip as all would like to take, or the girl who can only long vaguely that some day when her ship comes in and fortune smiles she shall be able to go at last to the Europe she has known only in her dreams, can each one employ best the spare time during Lenten quiet in studying and rending up all there Is to study of some one country which appeals especially to her because of Its romance, ' Its art. its history or its in fluence upon the world of long ago or of the present day. Then when the Inured for time does come, as it surely will, what inexplicable delight. there will be! Figured and dotted net In cream or white is used even more than lace, but the net must be of good quality else it will not stand the frequent washings necessary. There is a marked alteration in • all skirts at present and this change is es pecially noticeable in the young girls' models, among which the scant skirts of a year ago were far from attractive. The fuller a short skirt can be and still keep in accord with the fashions of the moment the better the effect, and for tunately the newest short skirts all dis play greater flare than for many months past. There is still "no extra material about the waist and hips, but flounces and opened tucks and plaits give flare at the shoe tops. THIS is the most satisfying time of all the year to the bargain lover — • winter clothes and silks are offered regardless of cost while advance spring Fireside Parties for Young Girls rOR a young girl who wants to en- i tertain her friends in an Informal way i on a winter evening nothing is more satisfactory and delightful than a fireside "fagot party." An open wood fire is in : itself particularly attractive, and in these I days of steam heat, even in many private houses, a wood fire is rare enough to seem quite a treat. When a party of jolly I young people Is seated abound a crackling i fire, bent on having fun, It Is pretty safe ' to assume that plenty of fun will be forth- : coming. ; But to have a successful party, no mat- ' ter how informal It may be, a hostess ! must have a plan of tier own as to how it is to be conducted and rr.ust make her ! preparations beforehand. There are sev. eral ways of managing a bright and enter- ' taining fireside party, but the most at ' tractive of all Is a "fagot party." The ' first requisite for this entertainment is a large quantity of small sticks, or fagots. ' The prospective hostess should get a few friends to go with her Into the woods ' some day with baskets or boxes and col lect the sticks. If she lives in the city she can probably find some woods near enough to reach them by trolley car or a short train ride, and the trip out into the coun try will be fun in itself. The number of sticks needed will- depend on the number ' of people who are to be at the party, but it is best to have a generous supply. When the fagots are brought home they must be broken into pieces somewhere near the same length and then tied up in bundles. There must ba a bundle for each person, and some extra ones are often useful. If there are to be both girls and young men at the party it is a pretty and effective scheme to tie the bundles with different colored ribbons, two being tied with each color, and then the guests match ribbons when they receive their sticks of wood, and each pair sit together in the group around the fire. The way the sticks are used and the whole plan of the party Is in this wise:— One guest unties his or her bundle and throws one stick on the fire, at the same time beginning to tell a story. When the first stick has burned away another must be thrown on the fire, and so on until the | sticks are all burned, the same person keeping the story going as long as his sticks last. When the last fagot has gone on the fire the next guest must untie his bundle and be ready to take up the story in his turn. And so it goes on until all those bundles of fagots have gone up in smoke and every one in the group has had an opportunity to show his or her skill in story telling. Of course the hostess can choose whether she would rather have a number of short stories or one long one, but there is generally more fun made by continuing one story through the whole group of I people and making one extricate the char- Suitable Cushions for the Divan IF the size of the room will possibly permit there may be a comfortable sofa i or divan in a girl's boudoir. If there is a lounge conveniently near there will be far more likelihood of a girl taking the hour's rest or nap which she really re ' quires each day than if resting literally ! means going to bed to lie down. If there lis only space for it a couch can be a real economizer of room, for in a box lounge can be kept i; ■ ;• > waists, thus leaving extra space in the hanging closet. | A box lounge can be made to order of small dimensions to fit in a special corner for very little more than the price of a I regulation sized divan. Even a very nar row, quite short couch will delltrht the soul of any ordinary girl who has had j hitherto to do her studying and reading in a stiff, high back chair and has gone I without relaxation throughout the day; in preference to sitting or lying down j upon her bed, , with its pretty , dimity cover so easily mussed and soiled, yet such a bother to remove. A cot bedstead disguised with a cover of pretty chintz makes a most comfort able lounge, and underneath it ; may i be kept, one of the new wicker boxes on' rollers j which hold so much, and are so easily moved in and out. . Any girl can either upholster or made a slip cover of chintz, S3 that apart from the actual cost of the >. material the cover need be no added expense. But the glory of a lounge is its , pil lows, and of these there can never be too many. If the cover is of chintz all the cushions may be covered with the same material, with the exception of one lin gerie pillow for the head. ', Variety, how ■ ■.in. ■ I- m^i A,.,. Int. fccVlll,MmiMl .ll* 111 MI textures are put on the market at prices irresistibly tempting. Among the light weight cloths the cashmeres and the thinner fabrics, such as voile de sole and crystalline, are now to be had at prices which it seems almost wrong not to take advantage of. All these materials can be made up at this out of season time; so reasonably that the small daughter can be fitted out for the spring at half the trouble and expense necessary if another month is wasted. On Saturdays and other holidays _ the: girl who is to "come out" in a year,'or! two has already her luncheons, theatre parties and card parties to attend, ' and; for these occasions a light pale gray voile de soie or any light silk is just correct.' At present it must be worn under a fur wrap or ulster, but if made up now,the gown will also serve for the weddings and other festivities of the spring, when fa; cloak will be unnecessary, and a pretty flower laden straw hat will complete the gown as a charming costume for warm weather. SSb acters from an Involved situation created by some one else. There is another ques tion of choice in whether the story telling is done in the order in which the guests sit or by attaching numbers to the ' rib bons tying the fagots. And if the hostess wishes to give a prize she can have a vote taken at the end to decide who has told the most interesting part of the story and so won the, prize. To make the: effect quite complete it is well to have the prize for a party of this kind something that is appropriate to the occasion, such as a book or some pretty picture of a fireside scene. '-SSSG Another amusing way to entertain a fireside party of young people is with one variety of the "gossip game." There are several ways of playing this game, the most amusing of which is done in . this way. The person at one end of the group whispers (not very distinctly) to the next one some statement. Then the second one whispers to her next neighbor something else. When every one along the line has had a turn at listening to some little story and at telling one herself, the first listener tells what she heard, and her neighbor who whispered it tells what he or she really said, and the difference between them is often very funny. This is carried on down the line, or else the hostess calls < on one guest to tell what she heard and then on the teller for the actual , tale. Next she calls on some one else in the same way, jumping around the group un til all have again had their turn. If there is a prize various comparisons can be madeas to whose little Item of news was most interesting and who came nearest to what she heard. The "gossip game" can also be played by starting a story at one end of the line and repeating the same thing as it is heard until ,It reaches the other end. Then every one tells what she heard and what she said. In this case it must not be just a state ment ; there must be a little story, and the telling of it aloud must be begun at the reverse end of the line. A third kind of fireside party is made up of ghost stories. When the invita tions are sent each guest is told that he or she must come prepared to tell a ghost story. She may find a good one in some book and learn it so that she can tell it in an interesting way or originate her story or tell one she has heard. For the telling of these stories there must be no light in the room but that of the fire, and the fire must be one of flickering embers just kept going by an occasional piece of wood. The fantastic shadows made by little flickering flames help in the effect of the stories. And the darkness is abso lutely necessary when ghosts are in ques tion. Of course the awarding of the prize to the best story is obvious in this case, but It might be well to have two prizes, one for the best original story and one for the best borrowed story. ever, is nowhere so effective as in a col lection of sofa pillows, and here a girl may combine colors to her heart's con tent almost regardless of the color scheme of the room. Pale blue, soft mauves, delicate pink, yellows, apple greens—all t will tone in charmingly . together—and j even a velvet cushion can be used on the -. same sofa as well as one of cretonne. ► All shapes and sizes, too, are now thrown together cushions and square; oblong and diamond shape,* heart shape and triangular, . all are popular, but of these the oblong and the round are the most in evidence. For a boudoir hung with silk or brocade the sofa pillows may be bordered with gold lace or dull gold braid, but in a * chintz room a cover of sheer lawn and lace over a foundation of bright colored 1 silk or teen is more attractive than any thing else. Filet lace is still the favorite: adornment for lingerie pillows and .. a, ■'.;' large, round - filet ' medallion . makes '■'.. a charming centre . for . a round batiste cushion. For an oblong cushion a filet square of about ten inches with a piece,; of batiste of equal size at each end bor- I dered all around with a Cluny or filet edg ing, is extremely pretty and shows up well, the color of the under slip. The back of this pollow may be either of plain pink ■■ ,trcked batiste or of silk. >'■?& .»" liU'lBH Two or three embroidered ■ handker-; chiefs joined together make a pretty cover '■•: for a "baby" pillow—the size cushion that.'. is so comfortable to place at' the < neck "• when suffering from headache."« Pillows r stuffed round like a bolster, tufted at each '• end or drawn into a pretty rosette formed '■;. of lace edging and ribbon, are also pretty '• additions to the lounge. ,- % ; Ur'.S , No matter how many silk or cretonne covered cushions there may be, there must '-* always be provided one, two : or more pil- %' lows with washable slip . covers ' to be in •'.* constant use. These covers are laundered ' each week and the cosy divan thus kept always looking fresh and trim ; - . ' M,**.**. J»» *#,'■<** :■■■-.- '< ■ . . .'i, " - '.--'-.■. ' '*■?