Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel], February 20, 1910, Page 3, Image 15

About Los Angeles herald. [microfilm reel] (Los Angeles [Calif.]) 1900-1911

Image provided by: University of California, Riverside; Riverside, CA

                
AT no time In a girl's life do her
gowns receive such hard and
constant wear as ring the
school years, when day in day
out the same frock, or, rather,
same style of dress, must be
donned and worn steadily from rising un
til after luncheon, if not throughout the
entire day. Later on when she has left
school and her day is not lived by abso
lute routine a simple house gown may be
put on in the morning to be changed later
for a smart reception costume or a walk
ing suit may be worn for a few hours, !
but never throughout an entire day. The
school girl, however, dons her street suit
as early as seven or half-past seven in the
morning and wears either this or a pretty
morning gown under her fur coat or
rough ulster, except Sundays or holidays.
Small wonder, then, that her wardrobe re
quires refurbishing and generally replen
ishing in the middle of the winter quite
ns much as does a debutante's ballroom
trousseau. ''■■-■ ;';
Simple gowns of the one material
throughout, made somewhat on the
order of the shirt waist dress, are dis
tinctly more fashionable nowadays than
any shirt waist and skirt combination,
even though the waist be of identical color'
with the rest of the costume. As heavy
serges and cheviots are so much in vogue
this winter, however, especially for every
day wear, each suit of this material
should have two waists provided for it,
one of the serge or cloth itself made up on
as thin a foundation as practicable, the
other of foulard or crepe de Chine for the
warmer days, when a cloth waist is out
of the question for indoors. Often a new
bodice will save the buying of an entire
gown, and at this time of year it is an
excellent plan to add one or two new silk
or French flannel waists to the outfit,
thus tiding over a cloth coat and skirt
costume until the spring.
WITH growing girls it is seldom
feasible to make the one suit or
gown serve mote than one year,
and for this reason it does not pay to
buy for them expensive clothes. It is in
finitely better, for example, to lemove the
interlining from a winter coat of serge or
cloth and by providing one or two new
waists for the skirt make the costume
serve for school wear throughout the
spring than to buy a new school outfit for
the brief spring session and lay the win
ter costume away for another year. -
The average school girl to-day spurns a
flannel shirt waist, preferring not to wear
even the pretty French flannels which, in
their bright colors, are so becoming and
Practical Talks by the April Grandmother
I( I I AIR can be killed by kindness,"
I "I paraphrased the April Grand
mother as she watched her young
est girl descendant, who was vigorously
wielding a toilet brush. "It is one thing
to observe that good old fashioned rule
anent regularly brushing the locks, and
quite,another thing to ignorantly be the
means of tearing out those locks. Yet
that is precisely what is frequently ac
complished with the aid of a heavy brush,
which, if ' equipped with coarse, stiff
bristles, literally rakes Innumerable hairs
from the scalp every time it is used. !.
"Nearly every young girl imagines that
in order.to restore order to her tangled
and usually very thick locks the brush is
a primary essential. On the contrary, it
is not a; really necessary utensil, and in
any event should be employed only just
before the locks are in a condition to be
braided ■or colled. ; The easiest way to
straighten . tangled locks is to gradually
work the fingers through them from the
scalp to the ends, so that when the comb
is used it need not encounter obstacles in
the for" of matted wads of hair. After
the tresses are in good order they may be
which can be so satisfactorily laundered.
The simple gowns of the lightest weight
serge or cashmere are unquestionably
most attractive for the schoolroom, but
the white wash waists which are still
generally worn soil and muss too readily
to be smart. Silk is, of course, not very
appropriate, but, after ail, the dark col
ored crepe de Chine wears extremely well
and with simple white collar and cuffs of
embroidered linen .. makes an extremely
pretty bodice for every day.
A great majority of the newest waists,
however, are of foulard, the background
of the same color as the skirt with which
the wo Ist is worn and the white figure
lightening the eftect of the whole costume.
These foulard waists were first worn last
spring, but their popularity did not com
mence sufficiently early for their vogue to
be in any way hampered. Certainly fou
lard is a delightful weight for a separate
bodice, and as it is a material which wears
excellently and can be cleaned and even
washed frequently it is not extravagant
even for a school waist.
rASH ION'S changes this year are
of slow working, and there will
not be the radical all destroying
alterations of other springs. In 'sep
arate waists, for example, the regu
lation model fastening down the . front,
with a full plaited frill and long, com
paratively tight sleeves, the whole re
lieved with plain bands of lace or em
broidered lawn, will still be worn. The
newest models, however, show a. wide
shoulder line, somewhat suggesting the
Gibson model, so run to the ground a few
years back. . These newest waists show
the shoulder plait tapering to the waist
line,, which, now returned to its normal
position, is of noticeably smaller dimen
sions than during tho reign of the Empire
gown. Small waists of ."wasplike" pro
portions are, however, not at all to be de
sired, and it is doubtful if that so unat
tractive and so sadly unhygienic fad ever
returns to favor.
There is another change that is des
tined to alter completely the appearance
of all this season's gowns nnd waists, and
this is the Introduction of the double puff
or "buffoon" sleeve. As yet, this sleeve
is small in width and short in length
above a deep cuff, but there is no fore
casting to what dimensions the design
may attain in the course of the next few .
months. Since the narrow effect across
the shoulders, occasioned by the tight fit
ting sleeve worn lately, is not apt to be
becoming to the slender figure of a very
young girl, the increased width given by
even a small puff sleeve should be wel- j
separated into small sections and
smoothed by light strokes with a fine, soft
brush, whitu should be used solely With
the idea of imparting lustre to the hair
rather than to free it from dust or dan
druff. And unless such brushes are daily
freed from r, sprinkled with ammonia,
then' thoroughly sunned and dried, they I
will become the most unsanitary of all |
toilet articles," announced the April
Grandmother in solemn tones. , "Bristles
afford an .deal anchorage for all manner |
of germs, including one which is supposed |
to be responsible for that dreadful malady
baldness. ' r~\ I
"As dust is a foe which threatens the'
hair of every girl who lives in a large
town, do not be afraid of using plenty of
soft water upon the locks, which cannot
be kept . clean, and consequently in a,
healthy condition, unless washed at least
twice each month. But as the quality of |
hair differs so radically the right sort of
shampoo for each individual can only be
determined by consulting a specialist.
I For some locks the dry method of cleans-
I ing is best, especially if their owner takes
cold easily. With a wet shampoo a great
many people prefer to use the white of
eggs as a cleanser, and quite •as many
others consider that there is nothing to
equal castile or tar soap in hot rainwater
followed by several tepid rinsing waters,
LOS ANGELES HERALD: SUNDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY 20, 1910;
mv v, -*
corned among the makers of school girl
, fashions.
Still another new model shows a bodice
made with sleeves all in one piece with
the front and back of the waist. This
bodice may be quite flat front and back,
each one a few degrees cooler than its pre
decessor. Methods of drying depend
wholly upon the color of the hair. While
a golden or Titian blonde should allow
the sunshine to do her work, girls who
wish to prevent their brown or black locks
from taking on a faded, rusty or streaked
appearance should carefully avoid the sun
shine and have their hair fanned dry.
"While a well bred girl would not
dream of putting her hands upon her .hair
when in the presence of other people, she
should form a habit of massaging her
scalp whenever she is alone In her own
room. ' Massage not onlyarouses circula
tion of the blood below the scalp, but
helps to ventilate the hair and to free it
from particles of dust. ...
"A method of treating the hair which,
like nearly every good plan. is exceeding
ly simple, is to cleanse the scalp each
night with witch hazel, massaging it into
the cuticle with the finger tips. If this
lotion has the effect of making naturally
dry hair too fluffy it may be moistened
with a few drops of sweet oil rubbed into
the roots. But do not experiment with
the hair in the hope of improving its tex
ture, length or color," warned the April
Grandmother, laying her lips lightly
upon the crown of her little granddaugh
ter's pretty head. "Nature gave you pre
cisely i the , sort of locks which most be
come you, ana if you' keep them clean
and smooth she will cheerfully do the rest
of the work," '
AFTERNOON HOUSE FROCKS
OF CASHMERE DE SOIE AND
CLOTH
A PAGE
M I .\*§l E 5
'will nil l
relieved by only collar and tiny yoke of
lace or net and by a four or five inch
lace cuff, or if this is too plain of out
line to be becoming a frill or jabot of lace
or of the material itself laid down one
side of the bodice may prove more at
tractive.
rOR quite young girls suspender and
strap dresses are still worn, but the
little gowns throughout, with a small
yoke and collar of white to keep the dark
Good Occupation for Lenten Days
THE first trip to Europe! No experi
ence in after life will ever compare
to the delight of it. When the idea
is first suggested as a possibility the ex
citement commences, nor does it abate an
iota until long after the return, when all
the varied bits of marvellous, of amusing,
of soul thrilling experiences have been re
lated for the hundredth time. It is so
much easier to go abroad nowadays than
formerly, when travel was so slow and
the ocean trip such an ominous undertak
ing, that the average girl gets many a trip
to Europe even before her school days are
over —but still even the much travelled
miss of to-day can look back with joy to
the first trip taken with a real understand
ing of the rare privilege being enjoyed ln
viewing the many historic and beautiful
I places of the old world.
A girl just leaving school or college will
undoubtedly derive a keener enjoyment
from a foreign trip than at any other time
in her life. Her mind is then filled with
the stories of great men and great events,
with visions of beautiful buildings and
world. famous paintings, and she then
knows intimately the history of the na
tions and the history of art in all its
branches, so that travel to her means pure
delight at every turn.
But for the first trip abroad there
should be other preparation besides the
actual school study. Nowadays, when a
European trip is undertaken almost as
casually as a journey to any summer re
sort, the route is more apt to be confined
to some one or two countries, which are
to be seen thoroughly and at leisure, in
stead of hurrying through some five or six
countries in the space of ' two or three
months and obtaining but ( a scant and
somewhat confused impression of them
all. The present way of spending only
two or three months at most on a trip
is infinitely more satisfactory than when
all Europe had to be crowded into the one
trip, even though four, six or even twelve
months were given over to sight seeing.
Unfortunately, a little sight seeing goes a
long way, and the more slowly and rest
fully a trip can be taken the greater the
pleasure that will be derived from it. ,
If then a definite trip through one or
two countries can be planned well in ad-
color of the gown from the face, are un
questionably smartest. Instead of being
made on any lining, the waist of the gown,
which Is made with sleeves and all in one,
may be worn over a lawn guimpe, show
ing yoke, collar and cuffs of tucked net
that can be washed and changed each day
if necessary. This same model is seen
also to a large extent among afternoon
waists of chiffon cloth and net, the de
sign in its extreme simplicity being excep
tionally good for a young girl's waist.
■ vance every spare moment from the time
. the route is first thought out, no matter
i how vaguely, can be spent in wholly de
. Hghtful preparation which will more than
, double the pleasure when the time finally
I arrives to start; and even if the proposed
, trip should fall through will afford a very
. real pleasure.
i Before visiting a country then the trav
i eller should endeavor to make herself as mi
i timate as possible with the people of that ■
country. Its history from its beginning!
' should be studiedand in more than one
. bookthat a real familiarity with its peo- 1
i pie may be acquired. Its architecture, Its
i paintings, its great men and famous,
women should be read of and then books j
1 devoted to each city and town that Is to I
. be visited should be acquired. Dates of
i important events should be learned and'
the birthplaces of renowned characters!
remembered so that every little township
shall be worth a —for in the old !
I world there is scarcely a hamlet that does
not teem with interest because of some
great deed that has transpired there or is
1 in some way connected with the life work
1 of some famous man or woman.
To give variety to constant study there
ore all the fascinating books of travels and I
historical novels and romances that have I
been written in such numbers, especially !
' during the last few years, and which;
i make such delightful light reading and i
, are at the same time really instructive.
If a motor tour is to be included in the
trip there are motor stories innumerable
' of every country where an automobile can
: run, and these books give charming
glimpses of the scenery, the manners and
customs of the people, and emphasize at
1 the same time each point of special inter
' est historically and In the field of art.
. Excellent as guide books, equally to he
i recommended for light reading, the mod
ern books of travel should be found on
every book shelf.
All, then, that is necessary to equip
i the future traveller for; the shortest or
most extended sojourn in foreign lands is
access to a well filled library. The girl
who hopes definitely to spend the coming
summer in such a trip as all would like
to take, or the girl who can only long
vaguely that some day when her ship
comes in and fortune smiles she shall be
able to go at last to the Europe she has
known only in her dreams, can each one
employ best the spare time during Lenten
quiet in studying and rending up all there
Is to study of some one country which
appeals especially to her because of Its
romance, ' Its art. its history or its in
fluence upon the world of long ago or of
the present day. Then when the Inured
for time does come, as it surely will, what
inexplicable delight. there will be!
Figured and dotted net In cream or white
is used even more than lace, but the net
must be of good quality else it will not
stand the frequent washings necessary.
There is a marked alteration in • all
skirts at present and this change is es
pecially noticeable in the young girls'
models, among which the scant skirts of
a year ago were far from attractive.
The fuller a short skirt can be and still
keep in accord with the fashions of the
moment the better the effect, and for
tunately the newest short skirts all dis
play greater flare than for many months
past. There is still "no extra material
about the waist and hips, but flounces and
opened tucks and plaits give flare at the
shoe tops.
THIS is the most satisfying time of
all the year to the bargain lover —
• winter clothes and silks are offered
regardless of cost while advance spring
Fireside Parties for Young Girls
rOR a young girl who wants to en- i
tertain her friends in an Informal way i
on a winter evening nothing is more
satisfactory and delightful than a fireside
"fagot party." An open wood fire is in :
itself particularly attractive, and in these I
days of steam heat, even in many private
houses, a wood fire is rare enough to seem
quite a treat. When a party of jolly I
young people Is seated abound a crackling i
fire, bent on having fun, It Is pretty safe '
to assume that plenty of fun will be forth- :
coming. ;
But to have a successful party, no mat- '
ter how informal It may be, a hostess !
must have a plan of tier own as to how it
is to be conducted and rr.ust make her !
preparations beforehand. There are sev.
eral ways of managing a bright and enter- '
taining fireside party, but the most at '
tractive of all Is a "fagot party." The '
first requisite for this entertainment is
a large quantity of small sticks, or fagots. '
The prospective hostess should get a few
friends to go with her Into the woods '
some day with baskets or boxes and col
lect the sticks. If she lives in the city she
can probably find some woods near enough
to reach them by trolley car or a short
train ride, and the trip out into the coun
try will be fun in itself. The number of
sticks needed will- depend on the number '
of people who are to be at the party, but
it is best to have a generous supply.
When the fagots are brought home they
must be broken into pieces somewhere
near the same length and then tied up in
bundles. There must ba a bundle for
each person, and some extra ones are
often useful. If there are to be both girls
and young men at the party it is a pretty
and effective scheme to tie the bundles
with different colored ribbons, two being
tied with each color, and then the guests
match ribbons when they receive their
sticks of wood, and each pair sit together
in the group around the fire.
The way the sticks are used and the
whole plan of the party Is in this wise:—
One guest unties his or her bundle and
throws one stick on the fire, at the same
time beginning to tell a story. When the
first stick has burned away another must
be thrown on the fire, and so on until the
| sticks are all burned, the same person
keeping the story going as long as his
sticks last. When the last fagot has gone
on the fire the next guest must untie his
bundle and be ready to take up the story
in his turn. And so it goes on until all
those bundles of fagots have gone up in
smoke and every one in the group has had
an opportunity to show his or her skill in
story telling.
Of course the hostess can choose
whether she would rather have a number
of short stories or one long one, but there
is generally more fun made by continuing
one story through the whole group of
I people and making one extricate the char-
Suitable Cushions for the Divan
IF the size of the room will possibly
permit there may be a comfortable sofa
i or divan in a girl's boudoir. If there is
a lounge conveniently near there will be
far more likelihood of a girl taking the
hour's rest or nap which she really re
' quires each day than if resting literally
! means going to bed to lie down. If there
lis only space for it a couch can be a real
economizer of room, for in a box lounge
can be kept i; ■ ;• >
waists, thus leaving extra space in the
hanging closet.
| A box lounge can be made to order of
small dimensions to fit in a special corner
for very little more than the price of a
I regulation sized divan. Even a very nar
row, quite short couch will delltrht the
soul of any ordinary girl who has had
j hitherto to do her studying and reading
in a stiff, high back chair and has gone
I without relaxation throughout the day;
in preference to sitting or lying down j
upon her bed, , with its pretty , dimity
cover so easily mussed and soiled, yet
such a bother to remove.
A cot bedstead disguised with a cover
of pretty chintz makes a most comfort
able lounge, and underneath it ; may i be
kept, one of the new wicker boxes on'
rollers j which hold so much, and are so
easily moved in and out. . Any girl can
either upholster or made a slip cover of
chintz, S3 that apart from the actual cost
of the >. material the cover need be no
added expense.
But the glory of a lounge is its , pil
lows, and of these there can never be too
many. If the cover is of chintz all the
cushions may be covered with the same
material, with the exception of one lin
gerie pillow for the head. ', Variety, how
■ ■.in. ■ I- m^i A,.,. Int. fccVlll,MmiMl .ll* 111 MI
textures are put on the market at prices
irresistibly tempting. Among the light
weight cloths the cashmeres and the
thinner fabrics, such as voile de sole and
crystalline, are now to be had at prices
which it seems almost wrong not to take
advantage of. All these materials can be
made up at this out of season time; so
reasonably that the small daughter can
be fitted out for the spring at half the
trouble and expense necessary if another
month is wasted.
On Saturdays and other holidays _ the:
girl who is to "come out" in a year,'or!
two has already her luncheons, theatre
parties and card parties to attend, ' and;
for these occasions a light pale gray voile
de soie or any light silk is just correct.'
At present it must be worn under a fur
wrap or ulster, but if made up now,the
gown will also serve for the weddings and
other festivities of the spring, when fa;
cloak will be unnecessary, and a pretty
flower laden straw hat will complete the
gown as a charming costume for warm
weather. SSb
acters from an Involved situation created
by some one else. There is another ques
tion of choice in whether the story telling
is done in the order in which the guests
sit or by attaching numbers to the ' rib
bons tying the fagots. And if the hostess
wishes to give a prize she can have a vote
taken at the end to decide who has told
the most interesting part of the story and
so won the, prize. To make the: effect
quite complete it is well to have the prize
for a party of this kind something that is
appropriate to the occasion, such as a
book or some pretty picture of a fireside
scene. '-SSSG
Another amusing way to entertain a
fireside party of young people is with one
variety of the "gossip game." There are
several ways of playing this game, the
most amusing of which is done in . this
way. The person at one end of the group
whispers (not very distinctly) to the next
one some statement. Then the second one
whispers to her next neighbor something
else. When every one along the line has
had a turn at listening to some little story
and at telling one herself, the first listener
tells what she heard, and her neighbor
who whispered it tells what he or she
really said, and the difference between
them is often very funny. This is carried
on down the line, or else the hostess calls <
on one guest to tell what she heard and
then on the teller for the actual , tale.
Next she calls on some one else in the
same way, jumping around the group un
til all have again had their turn.
If there is a prize various comparisons
can be madeas to whose little Item of
news was most interesting and who came
nearest to what she heard. The "gossip
game" can also be played by starting a
story at one end of the line and repeating
the same thing as it is heard until ,It
reaches the other end. Then every one
tells what she heard and what she said.
In this case it must not be just a state
ment ; there must be a little story, and
the telling of it aloud must be begun at
the reverse end of the line.
A third kind of fireside party is made
up of ghost stories. When the invita
tions are sent each guest is told that he
or she must come prepared to tell a ghost
story. She may find a good one in some
book and learn it so that she can tell it
in an interesting way or originate her
story or tell one she has heard. For the
telling of these stories there must be no
light in the room but that of the fire, and
the fire must be one of flickering embers
just kept going by an occasional piece of
wood. The fantastic shadows made by
little flickering flames help in the effect
of the stories. And the darkness is abso
lutely necessary when ghosts are in ques
tion. Of course the awarding of the prize
to the best story is obvious in this case,
but It might be well to have two prizes,
one for the best original story and one
for the best borrowed story.
ever, is nowhere so effective as in a col
lection of sofa pillows, and here a girl
may combine colors to her heart's con
tent almost regardless of the color scheme
of the room. Pale blue, soft mauves,
delicate pink, yellows, apple greens—all t
will tone in charmingly . together—and j
even a velvet cushion can be used on the -.
same sofa as well as one of cretonne. ►
All shapes and sizes, too, are now
thrown together cushions and
square; oblong and diamond shape,* heart
shape and triangular, . all are popular,
but of these the oblong and the round
are the most in evidence.
For a boudoir hung with silk or brocade
the sofa pillows may be bordered with
gold lace or dull gold braid, but in a *
chintz room a cover of sheer lawn and
lace over a foundation of bright colored 1
silk or teen is more attractive than any
thing else. Filet lace is still the favorite:
adornment for lingerie pillows and .. a, ■'.;'
large, round - filet ' medallion . makes '■'.. a
charming centre . for . a round batiste
cushion. For an oblong cushion a filet
square of about ten inches with a piece,;
of batiste of equal size at each end bor- I
dered all around with a Cluny or filet edg
ing, is extremely pretty and shows up well,
the color of the under slip. The back of
this pollow may be either of plain pink ■■
,trcked batiste or of silk. >'■?& .»" liU'lBH
Two or three embroidered ■ handker-;
chiefs joined together make a pretty cover '■•:
for a "baby" pillow—the size cushion that.'.
is so comfortable to place at' the < neck "•
when suffering from headache."« Pillows r
stuffed round like a bolster, tufted at each '•
end or drawn into a pretty rosette formed '■;.
of lace edging and ribbon, are also pretty '•
additions to the lounge. ,- „% ; Ur'.S
, No matter how many silk or cretonne
covered cushions there may be, there must '-*
always be provided one, two : or more pil- %'
lows with washable slip . covers ' to be in •'.*
constant use. These covers are laundered '
each week and the cosy divan thus kept
always looking fresh and trim ; - .
' M,**.**. J»» *#,'■<** :■■■-.- '< ■ . . .'i, " - '.--'-.■. ' '*■?