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THE TRAINING OF MAID SERVANTS AN IMPORTANT ITEM IN THE FASHIONABLE EDUCATION # 'A ' PAGE | @^>|k for mfy&? MISS E S '*^jjm^ , , Wtt' ■ . WITH the young giris of to-day rests the opportunity of solving the servant question of the very near future, and the sooner the daughter of the household realizes this responsibility the better. Unquestionably the great* secret nt the root of this perplexing prob lem lies in the attitude of the mistresses quite as much as with the ignorance of the servant girls. Until very recently the women in this country have been basing their hopes on trying to found a servant class like that in England, where the idea of class dis tinction has for centuries ruled so strong ly that the relation between mistress and maid is perfectly understood on both sides. There birth aud wealth, too, are insur mountable barriers to the uneducated, and a certain respect and reverence for the gentry is literally born in the poorer classes. Here all is different —the young Irish or Swedish girl comes to America with the idea implanted in her soul that from the day she lands no one is to be her superior; that she, surely, is on the same footing with all these Americans who, so sho understands it, came over like herself to this new country to make their fortunes. To those who have suc ceeded she can aflord no real respect, for, of course, she too will bo rich and have her own servants in a few years. And this is the attitude of the Irish house servant. There are no titles here, hence no ladies or mistresses in this coun try, for, to the uneducated, a title bears SOCIAL AMENITIES FOR THE SCHOOL GIRL SN excellent resolution, and one which incidentally it would be wise to make over again every time of failure, would be to never 1 say about any one anything ivhich could not be equally well said to that person's facn. And even then it is well to be guarded in the remarks that can be made even to the dearest, most uuder-| standing friend. Apart from the unkimlncss in saying nf another something that would be bound to hurt should it be said instead about one's self, there is no trait so bound to [ret the speaker into trouble as the habit of making ill-natured or even. thought less remarks. There are too many care less talkers In this world, and the chances me strong that what is said will be re peated to the person of whom it was told —nor will it gain anything in tenderness through the repetition. Should the girl ivho made the original remark be so for lunate as to have the person of whom j the thing was said come to her for an explanation, even then it will bo hard to] jive a softer meaning and to heal the I urcach—and no one in the world can I ilTord to lose a friend. Of course, one is bound to dislike si.iuc natures and to like others, to find certain traits even iv a dear friend unpleasing, not to admire the actions and bearing of ill with whom one comes in contact. A ;irl must naturally have her own opin ous, but it is neither wise nor charitable ;o share these ideas with the outside ivorld. There is a wide difference, however, be ;weeu discussing with an intimate friend ivfio has already proved herself trust worthy some mutual acquaintance, and| Miking of tins same acquaintance to a| arge gathering, or even to one who is not i sufficiently Old or intimate friend to be lonored with such confidence, for the only sxcuse which makes the disenssiun or mrsh criticism of another pardonable is [hat of real intima.. veen the speak ers, and even then fairness must be keptj n mind. But there is another trait to be guarded igainst and fought against even morel than that of careless talking and criti-i -ism, and that is the repeating of cou-j rersation, remarks or criticisms. The 1, >riginal remark may have been harmless | .■noiigh, nnd was in all probability so iu-j tended; but when repeated with only aj <light change of emphasis how different, liow much more crue!, it sounds! But worst of all, most despicable of all, is the one who will repeat directly to the; person of whom it was said a cutting or| unkind remark. A girl who can do this, must be strangely lacking in human sym liatliy, must be totally without the milk it human kindness, yet it is astonishing! A PAGE FOR MISSES close relation to royalty and savors at once of command and reverence. It is just this attitude which no generation nf women here hus yet been quite able to grasp, and it now remains with the young wives of the next five or ten years to show bow, with their education and all their advantages and opportunities, they can cope with the strange personality and the perverted viewpoint of the house ser vnnt. TO commence with, n girl must realize that this little maid or waitress or this cross old cook is but a very nor mal human being, ever ready to appreci ate kindness, but quick to resent nn im position. And then, through perfect poise and gentleness, a kindly, not ill tempered, pointing out of errors, an evident desire to help the girl in her work by showing care fully just how it shonld best be done, n lady born aud bred will unconsciously in spire respect in the heart of the untutored immigrant and with it a desire to do the work to (he best of her ability. Never, never should a girl lose her temper in the presence of one not her social equal. Not only does she put.herself on a plane with the other, but because of her training, the influences for good with which she has always been surrounded, and her educa tion, she immediately sinks far below the level of one who is quick to anger only because she has never been shown that there is any reason for self-control. To train a servant it is necessary to know thoroughly each branch of house work, and to this end there are in many cities schools where real domestic science how many, many close friendships have been broken up by the repetition through a third person of some careless remark made half in jest. There's only one way of overcoming the habit of either saying the unkind thing or repeating an uu-Christian criticism of another! ami that is by stopping always to think before speaking. "How would I feel were that said of me? Would it not hurt to know that any one had thought that of me?" Of course the truly Christian character would neither make an unkind speech nor repeat one. One means, therefore, of Climbing a runs higher on the ladder is by conquering these two tendencies, which, strange to say, are to be found in greater or le»i form in every girl in ex istence. Once mastered, it will be found astonishing how popularity will increase and how others will come with confi dences, for the girl who does not repeat is naturally going to he trusted with inti macies and trusts which could not be gen erally told; nor is there any surer or happier proof of friendship than to be confided' in at all times. THE GLOVE BOX. TO keep white gloves iv nice order each pair should have marked in with indelible ink a definite number. If each glove is identified iv this way when bought it will be astonishing how seldom there will be five right hand glovea taming up for three left, and so on. Un questionably white gloves do get lost and mixed at the cleaner's, and in a large family the same thing is bound to happen at home also, but if wheu every pair of gloves has marked in it corresponding numbers with the wearer's initials they can then be straightened out with no litticulty every time they are returned from the cleaning establishment. White gloves must still be worn for all :lress occasions, and as it is seldom possible to wear them more than once without cleaning, it is necessary to be supplied with numberless pairs. In order that the soiled gloves shall not accumulate in overwhelming numbers they should be collected "on a different day each week Mid sent to be cleaned, just as other white garments are laundered regularly. If this is done fewer gloves can be kept in use at once and there will never be a time when at the last moment it will be discovered that there are no clean gloves to wear. It is a good plan, however, to keep al ways in the house a bottle of uou-tlamuble (loaning lluid in case a clean pair of evening gloves is suddenly needed and all are soiled. The difference between a naturally neat girl and one who finds it difficult to keep her possessions in order is nowhere so Bvident hh in her glove boj. How at tractive il looks to see neat piles of long and short gloves, each pair tied carefully together with its piece of pretty pink or blue ribbon. How woefully unattractive, on the other hand, in a large box or drawer into which are thrown in hopeless confusion all the gloves together, to be scrambled through ruthlessly whenever a pair is needed. Los Angeles Sunday Herald is taught. Surely sucli a con<je is every bit as important as a knowledge of any of the ologies or the dead languages. But apart frnm the science of cooking a girl of ordinary intelligence should, know Instinctively all that hns to do with the running of a Lorne —that is. the detailed work, such as the setting of a din ner table, the keeping the place in order, the correct and incorrect methods of answering the door, &c. Remember only. girls, that this servant has known nothing at home, whereas all your lives you have taken it as a matter of course that things wore served to you at your left at the dinner table; that silver knives should be used for fish or fruit, ,tc. MOKK and more are the American Women finding it a good plan to get for their maids, waitresses and for all branches of upstairs work girls who are but lately landed from abroad and, ■ifter satisfactory references in regard to their character have been given by rela tives already established in domestic ser vice over here, of taking them into their houses and training them from the very start. In this way there is nothing to be untaught, there is nothing to be re lenrned by the servant, who otherwise may have gone for her first place to a large family of small means, where, as maid of all work, her only requirement was to get through her multitudinous tasks as well as possible, with small at tention given to the niceties of living. Treat her kindly, then, but teach her thoroughly. Never let her shirk, but do not nag. Show her just how each de- THE GIRL AND HER SPENDING MONEY NO matter how small hor allowance may bo. every girl who has her own ■pending money to eke out as best she may for car fare, little dress aceeso ries and an occasional box of canily or soda will be far more content than if she is forced to ask her parents for every ten cent piece or quarter that shj may require in the course of the day. Many really generous fathers do not realize the importance of their daughter's feeling a certain freedom and indepen dence where their spending money is con cerned, while many girls do not realize themselves how infinitely more satisfac tory it would be to have their own money, be it only 25 or 50 cents a week, to plan out themselves and not have to ask for each separate small desire. Until a girl has her own little pittance nhe can never hope to learn either economy or generosity. When she is given the money for each pair of gloves or hair rib bon which she wants there is no opportu nity of trying just how far n dollar or a five dollar bill can be made to go. if the allowance is very small, then weekly payments are necessary, but as it becomes larger and more must be bought from it—hats, perhaps, or even all the gowns—then a girl will learn more from less frequent payments. Naturally every thing must depend upon the income of the family, but every girl should, when asking that a regular allowance bu given her, make it understood that she will spend no more than is now allotted for her clothes anfl everyday expenses. With care a girl can often make the same amount of money go much further whan she plans each expenditure and economizes some what in the trimming of her gown that a. smart hat may be bought. Apart from the independence and the fact that she herself will feel the conse quences of every extraraganue, it is really a good thing for a girl to be accustomed to the use of a check and the handling of what money ,1s required for her own per sonal needs. The training will* help her in after life, whether she. marries a rich man and has the responsibility of large means, or becomes the helpmeet of some man with whom the expenditure of every dollar must be given thought. | Even if she is to become a professional woman or "b*helor girl" Bhe can scarce ly commence too young in life to under stand the value of money—how much it can do for others and how much pleasure it can bring to the owner if rightly and carefully spent. The girl who is nat urally reckless will soon learn economy if her parents are sufficiently firm and never make up an allowance, all of which has been spent in half its appointed time. What pleasure and what excellent train ing, on the other baud, will a tixed allow ance given to the naturally generous girl. If possible an allowance should be worked out in various stages. The little girl receives her penny a week for candy just as regularly as the grown up sister finds her monthly or quarterly cheek from which must come every living ex pense except her actual bed and board— her gowns, her theatre tickets, her trav elling expense*. But in order to have at tained to this lust stage before she man ages the bills of the household the girl has first to spend years on weekly al- ii ii nartment of her work should be carried out. Tell her, in private, when she makes mistakes and do not reprove her in the jlowance. from which carfare and church money must bo paid, then a larger amount paid each month, from which must come all the little details of dress gloves, belts, veils, ribbons, Sec, as well as what amusements she caves for. and then during her last year in school the allowance was largo enough to cover all dressmaking bills and all the smaller ex penses of daily living. There will not be half the danger of ex travagance and useless spending of money if a girl knows that it is she alone who is to bear the consequences and can not have the very satisfactory feeling that, "after all. it doesn't matter, father always pays." And then there are the girls who often go without some very trivial but in HOME MADE BAGS OF SOFT LEATHER CHARMING hand bags are made of soft leather, with fastenings of cords held in place by beads. These bass are quickly anil easily made, and as the sewing-may be done on the machine there is now no reason why even the girl who is mot an expert needlewoman may not turn out a successful bag. The principal qualification needed for making the bags attractive is a good eye for color. The girl who is able to bring together un usual shades in subtle and charming coler harmonies is sure to turn out bags which all her friends will rejoice to possess. Soft ooase leather is used for the bags, which are deeper than they are wide. Two pieces of leather are cut and the edges pinked all around. About two inches from the top the leather is pierced at regular intervals for a draw cord. This may be either of the leather, of silk or gold cord or of beads. Two holes are made close together and then there is a larger interval before the next two holes. Metal disks, with holes in the centre are used to hold the draw cord in place. These are of gold, silver, bronze or cop per, and are ornamented with colored stones or merely with designs in the metal. They are some of them very charming in color, and it is in the selec tion of these ornaments, as well as in the color of the bag itself, that the possi bilities for turning out remarkably beauti ful bags lie. The draw cord of leather holds these ornaments in place. The two sides of the bag are stitched together on the machine, the pinked edges being left on the outside. The edges may be sewed together by hand if desjred, of course, but the stitching must be strong and very even. Shot Bag for Paper Weight. rOR a writing table fitted with bro cade or cretonne articles—paper holder, blotter, &c—there should be a paper weight of the same material to complete the Bet. This paper weight is nothing more than v tiuy bag trimmed with a ruching of gold lace, tied with gold cord, and filled with lead shot. Noth ing could be simpler, yet this little bag will be a real ornament to the desk. If the desk articles are all of silver qr of bronze or bright French gilt, then this! paper weight way be made of cloth m presence of outsiders or other servants. That only rattles her and does no good when the mistake has already been made. their minds wholly desirable thing for fear that they would be thought foolish in asking for it. On their own allowance it would spread out in some way and no one be the wiser. The giving of a definite allowance to each child is well worth the effort it may cause the head of a house hold striving to manage in the best way on a small income. In the end no more will be spent, but it will certainly be spent to best advantage, for the child will derive through it not only those things which she needs and will have to be given anyway, but, with a good training in the use nnd abuse of spending money, a knowledge which is every bit as impor tant for the laborer's child as for the daughter of a millionnaire. gold or silver, or of gold or silver ribbon.' The best quality of material must be had for this purpose, for a cheap grade of gold or silver tissue will tarnish quickly. Less than a quarter of a yard of three inch ribbon is necessary, and the same amount or less of gold metal lace is required in the making of this little shot bag. The cost is infinitesimal, but the result a real adjunct to the writ- Ing set. I PHOTOGRAPH FRAMES. NEWEST in photograph frames ure those of Marquetrie made of inlaid woods and having inside rims fin ished with French green gold. Also of ornamental wood are frames of lacquered olive, carved bamboo and green teak, highly polished red cedar, ebony and ma hogany. They are of oblong, square, round, oval and heart shapes and in sizes suitable for card, cabinet and miniature photographs. Metal frames are of plain, chased or repousse worked plated anil sterling sil ver; of green gold it, Colonial or Empire design and of brass and bronze used sep arately and in combination. Some of the daintiest porcelain frames are exquisitely decorated in Dresden ef fects, others show tip; familiar Delft de signs and a third class have tops painted with figures after Watteau and sides en riched with gold scrolls. Hand painting also decorates the ivory frames which, coming from the Far East, show rural scenes, temples and gods unfamiliar to the average pair of Occidental eyes. Red morocco is most of all fashionable among leather photograph frames, but! many attractive novelties are developed mi pig, seal and walrus, as well as in black | enamel kid. These pelt frames are plain j save for a gold, silver or black monogram i at the centre of the upper border unless; they are of the square book order, holding from two to eight photographs, in which event the monogram is on the outer side, of; the left hand cover. Brocaded and flowered silks and satins are still high in favor as coverings for photograph frames, but in these hair] padded, cushion effects the latest fancy isj for an elaborate floral design embroidered j with silk upon while, taupe or tan linen. Persian and Florentine enamelled metal frames have lost none of their prestige, but they are not effective over any photo graph which has a dark background. Floral frames representing mscs. violets or for get-me-nots in pressed and tinted white metal are exceptionally attractive, but only suitable for photographs of children aud <juite young girls Teach her how to address you, insist that she always be neat, but through it all show her that you are really interested in her and are trying to help her to pro ficiency in her line of work. The attitude of respect for your character aud your superior knowledge will quickly come, and this is the ground upon which nil re spect should be based; this is the only real mark of equality ■mil Inequality. In every household there is oue mem- PRACTICAL TALKS BY GRANDMOTHER ( tT" REAT your teeth as tenderly as you would treat an infant, my dear children, and your reward will probably be a healthy and happy old age." The April Grandmother thus addressed her three granddaughters. "A perfectly shaped denture is a gift which Na ture rarely bestows, but as the average young girl's teeth are sound, by thorough ly brushing them at night, morning and after each meal, she may at least keep them looking white and wholesome. If she loses many of her teeth before reach ing middle age it is usually because an unwillingness to endure a little pain pre vents her from having them repaired until only mere shells remaiu to be worked upon. "The enamel of the teeth may be seri- ously injured by extremes of temperature in beverage and food, as swallowing a glassful of iced water immediately after taking soup or following ice cream with a demi-tasse. And an immense amount of mischief may come to a naturally sound denture through the medium of various fruits whose acid juices not only destroy the enamel but render the exposed sur- face exceedingly sensitive. Such teeth are likely to take on an ugly dark hue, decay, ulcerate or so rapidly wear off at the corners that before many years tlicir roots must be capped, and"—tb>: April ■ grandmother shuddered at the idea—"false j teeth, ' however, perfectly fitted and matched, do not masquerade as natural ones any more successfully than does , skim milk us cream. "Of course I do not mean to say that acid fruits are to be tabooed," slie con tinued i» response to the alarmed ex pression on the face of one of the girls who had been biting into v large red ap ple at short intervals daring Ihe evening, ! "but only to advise you Unit, always after !i indulging in uu acid fruit orgy it is the : I part of wisdom- to thoroughly rinse the imouth and then to rub a little bicarbonate | Of soda upon the teeth and gums. ' "Although everybody knows that candy 'fa bad for the teeth," proceeded the April I Grandmother in resigned tones, "nearly 'all school girls devour just as much eou- Jfectionery as they can get, so that I can merely recommend to them the softer 'kinds of sweets as less injurious, because | they literally melt in the mouth, whcivas hard confectionery is often the means of breaking off a perfectly sound tooth, ren dering it useless as a means of masticat ing food and very disfiguring to the mouth. "The habit of biting off threads or of loosening knots with tho teeth is a bar- ber upon whom must rest much of the responsibility of seeing that all runs smoothly and that the home is a happy one. Wherever there is a daughter tbis, certainly, is her sphere, and through no channel has a girl the same opportunity of showing herself capable and making herself of value to those she loves as iv trying to deal with the servant question, which is wrongly conceded to be the most yexing problem of the age. barons one," concjuded the April Grand mother turning directly upon her eldest granddaughter, who colored guiltily and began to search for her embroidery scis sors. "Very young animals gnaw at fab rics because their incoming teeth pain them, but that is not a good reason why a young gentlewoman should wilfully in jure her incisors by employing them in a similar manner." Attractive Yarn Boxes. ""r*O keep a large skein of wool which I is too clumsy for a wrist ball from constantly and insistently rolling off the lap when in use, there are now fashioned most attractive weighted boxes to aland close to the arm of the chair or on a nearby table and hold the ball firm ly where it should remain. These boxes are easily fa. nioned of cretonne or silk made with a small hole at the top for the yarn to slip through, and given weight and solidity by a little pillow of shot laid in the box. A small sachet of heliotrope and orris powder^or any favorite perfume placed in this case will render the yam doubly attractive to work with. The more attractive of the yarn boxes have a round top with flat base, but there are many square designs that are also excellent. In making such a case care muse be taken to have the inside as soft and smooth as the outer covering, that there shall be nothing to catch and pull the delicate wool. China silk makes a goml lining or soft sateen can also be used. Twine boxes of all kinds are now being j pressed into new service as yarn cases and they serve splendidly in this new capacity. The perforated silver twine boxes are especially good for wool hold ers, and make an attractive addition to the work table. Bulgarian Embroidery. BULGARIAN embroidery on linen is now very popular for the Email furnishings of bedrooms of a certain style. This sort of decoration is not suit able for an excessively dainty pink and white or nil white apartment, for the col ors employed are vivid and the designs striking. Added to this, the embroidery is at its best on rather heavy linen, a rich er or more delicate fabric, not making nearly so attractive a background. There are many girls, especially those away at school, who have their rooms furnished in a fashion which requires some touches of bright color, and for these the liiil garian embroidered fittings or one or two pieces of it are very satisfactory. It is particularly good for boys' rooms at school or college, because it has a much more sturdy look than most linen articles. Bed, blue and green on the natural linen is the usual color harmony. Some of the pieces, however, are decorated with only one or two of these colors. _ Hod and blue or green and red on the linen color are perhaps' more attractive combinations than that of the three colors. I'illows, table and bureau scarfs and bags are • made of the linen decorated in this fashion.