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THE CROSSVILLE CHRONICLE
FEDERAL HIGHWAY ACT PROVIDES WORK FOR QUARTER MILLION MEN (Prrpeivd bjr the I'nltert States Department ef Agriculture.) Seventy-five million dollars becomes available as federal aid for road con i ruction in the various states, the money to be spent under the super vision of the bureau of public rouds. Department of Agriculture, under the federal highway act, signed November 9, by the President. Iu addition, $13, OOO.tMM) is appropriated for national forest roods. The $75,000,000 repre sents the fedenH government's appro priation to the work of building high ways In the various states and must be watched, dollar for dollar, by funds from the state treasuries, except In states where more than 5 per cent of 'the area is unappropriated public land. Part of Money Now Available. - The $75,000,000 appropriated is for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1922. Here is bow the mouey will be ap portioned among the 43 states: Ala. Ariz. A I k. Calif. Colo. ....$1.C53,420.67 Neb $1,5S1,189.60 .... l.a.3,281.44 Nev 953,i36.;8 .... 220.127.116.11 N. H 365,623.00 . 2,462,098.53 N. J. . 1,341,175.6 N. M. , 942.870.95 . 1,189.823.34 . 3,696,447.97 , 1.709.333.90 . 1.164.714.4-' , 2,823,004.05 , 1.752,339.44 , 1,182,663.90 , 3,398,953.97 , 3C5.625.00 , 1,061,237.34 1.204,060.31 Conn 480.S97.78 N. Y. Del. 3G6.li25.00 N. C. Florida ... 8J6.S25.69 N. 0. Georgia ... 1,997.957.68 Ohio . Idaho 938.X6.t3 Okla. Illinois ... Indiana .. Iowa . ... Kangaj ... Ky. Louisiana 3,246,281.07 Oregon 1,958,855.41 Penna. 2.102,872.74 R. I. .. 2.102.281.51 6. C. .. 1,417,178.68 S. D. .. 9:16,980.64 Tenn. 1,647.692.24 4,425.172.41 849.417.21 365.625.00 1.456,828.47 Maine 695.160.25 Texas Md.. Mams. ... Mich. ... Minn. ... Miss Missouri Montana 640.629.01 Utah ... 1,096,176.04 Vermont 2.249.5S2.43 Virginia 2,123,597.07 Wash. . 1.294.9U6.22 W. Va. . 2.448.128.62 Wis 1.546,885.82 Wyo. ... 1,103.709.77 802.359.77 1,894,815.86 934,617.63 Of the appropriation -of $15,000,000 for the improvement of national forest roads $5,000,000 Is mode available for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1922, and $10,000,000 for the following fiscal year. The federal highway act In a general way resembles the federal-aid act of 1916, but contains several new features. Administration of the act by the secre tary of agriculture, and under him the bureau of public roads, remains un changed. Apportionment of the fund to the 3tate,s is almo t the same as iu tbe pre vious act, the fund being divided into three parts, one part Apportioned ac cording to population, one according to area, and one part according to mileage of rural and star mall routes. A new feature Is the stipulation that no tafe shall receive less than one-half of 1 per cent of the total fund which, In this case, amounts to $305,025. This stipulation will Increase the amount received by four of the smaller states, I. e., Delaware. New Hampshire, Rhode Island and Vermont. Change in Use of State Allotments. There is considerable change, how ever, in the manner in which a Ktate may . use its allotment. Each state jiust select a connected road system not exceeding 7 per cent of Its road mileage for improvement with federal aid. This system will be divided into 'wo classes, one of which will be known as Interstate highways and" the other rs Intercounty highways. The Inter state highways must not exceed three sevenths of the system selected; cn them not more than 00 per cent of the state's allotment can be spent with out the joint approval of the secretary if agriculture and the state highway department. The tntercounty high ways, which consist of the remainder ;f the system selected, will receive ihe remainder of the state's allotment. Except In states where more than 5 per cent of the area Is unappropriated public land, the amount of federal aid received on any project must not ex ceed 50 per cent of the estimated cost. In states where more than 5 per cent of the area Is unappropriated public land the 50 per cent allotment Is In creased by an amount equal to one- naif the percentage of unappropriated. One-Haf of All Roads Built Are Aided Cut brush along tile-drain lines, sol the roots of woter-lovlng plants won't j B.SF R aTJt b f taaaSK. VHP " I I. ft. tL. public land In the state. Before any funds can be paid to a state, the state must appropriate money, under the direct control of the state highway de partment, to match the federal allot ment, and for the maintenance of federal-aid highways. All highways In the Interstate system must have a surfaced width of at least 18 feet, unless a narrower width Is deemed permissible by the secretary of agriculture. In case a federal-aid highway Is not properly maintained by a state, the state will be given 90 days' notice by the department; at the end of that time if the highway Is not in good condition of maintenance the sec retary of agriculture will maintain It out of the state's allotment and refuse to approve any new projects until reimbursement Is made by the state. What the new appropriation will mean to the country can be Judged by the use to which the $275,000,000 pre viously appropriated has been put, ac cording to officials of the United States Department of Agriculture. Practically $200,000,000 of that" money has been put to work In projects which are either entirely completed or now under con struction. The. exact amount was $199, 823,427 on October 31. To match this amount the states have appropriated $205,529,090, making a total of .$465,- 352,517. Mileage Sufficient to Encircle Earth. The- roads to be paid for by this money, If placed end to end, would en circle the earth and extend from New York to San Francisco on the second lap, the total mileage of the roads under construction and completed be ing reported, by the bureau of public roads as 27,000 miles on October 31. Of this mileage, 9,555 miles Is In proj ects which are entirely completed and the contractors discharged. The bal ance of 17,445 miles Is In projects which are still under construction, but which were C9 per cent complete on October 31. In these projects there Is therefore the equivalent of 12,000 miles of completed road, so that the completed road to date totals over 21, 000 miles. "The average cost per mile of the roads built with federal aid has been between $17,000 and $18,000. More than half the money has been spent for roads with the highest types of surface, such as concrete, brick, and bituminous concrete, but a very large mileage of roads of the cheaper type, such as gravel and snnd-clay, has been built where such types would withstand the wear of the traffic. ' Prior to five years ago the federal government took no active part In the road construction of the country. To day about one-half of all the roads that are being built are being aided by the government financially, and the construction Is subject to the Irrspec- tlon and approval of federal engineers. Work for Quarter Million Men. It Is estimated by engineers of the UnItedStates Department of Agricul ture that the federal-aid roads under construction on October 31 were giv ing employment to about 250,000 men, either directly on the actual road con struction or indirectly In the produc tion and transportation of the ma terials which enter Into the construc tion. DAILY REQUIREMENTS OF COW Food Used for Milk Production Must Be in Addition to That Neces sary for Body. A cow weighing 1,000 pounds needs every day, for the maintenance of her body, an amount of food equivalent to that supplied in eight pounds of clo ver hay and twenty pounds of good corn silage. She must have this food regardless of whether she produces any milk. Food used for milk produc tion must be in addition to that re quired to maintain the cow's body. by the Government Financially. have a chance to grow down aud clof the works. Winter Mantles in Gay Fabrics Gorgeous Seasonable Wraps Now Demand All Attention -From Women. It Is true, writes a fashion corre spondent In the New York Tribune. that those who refuse to observe the seasons In attire, and are always look Ing far Into the distance, scanning the horizon for a new season's styles, al ready are scouting for models showing the tendencies of spring. Fortunately the numbers of ex tremists In dress who Insist upon forcing the season are diminishing, and women In general are dressing more In accordance with the ther mometer. Anv news of spring fash ions at the present time cannot be other thnn intimations, many of which may prove false. Now Is ' the time for sumptuous clothes. There Is no other season so well suited to them. In midsummer clothes are beautiful but simple, as befits that time of year. Gorgeous ness In dress appears In the winter. Interesting things have been done for evening coats. No longer are they voluminous wraps of costly fabrics, but, rather, handsome coats and capes, showing great variety in style, mate rial and trimming. Colors and Fabrics . Much less material Is used In this winter's evening coats than In those of past years. Slim, straight coats Model Developed From Blue and Gold Brocade, With Deep Band and Col lar of Mink. and straight-hanging capes are of vel vet, rich brocade, metal tissue, or fur, those of fur being surprisingly light In weight. Models of this sort have sleeves of interesting cut, set Into wide armhoJes and flaring In Chinese fashion. These are draped and wrappy eve ning coats, less full than those used heretofore. Many capes are worn. These hang in straight lines and are topped by handsome collars of fur or velvet. A surprising number of vel vet collars, often In contrasting color, are used ; for Instance," a black velvet cape may have a huge ruff of bright pink velvet peonies. Always a medium for exploiting beautiful colors as well as fabrics, the evening wrap now excels Itself In this Wraps With Huge Petal Ruffs Wraps for young girls are made without trimming, but are much elab orated In the working of the fabric. A uodel of this sOrt which Is a great Parisian success and made by Char lotte, is developed In bright colored velvet with Intricate handwork on the shoulders to yoke depth. A very elab orate collar of the velvet cut In the shape of petals forms a huge ruff. Models of the heavy, somewhat cum bersome sort of overcapes sometimes ending In long sleeves of the distinct ly Renaissance types are being worn In Paris, and copies have been sent to this country, but apparently they are too eccentric to make any great ap peal. All such mantles have very elab orate fur trimmings, the fur being used in quantities A successful blending of blue fox which Is called renard fume, Is used on many models of this sort It Is an excellent Imitation of the natural blue fox, there being' an underlay of blue gray fur like the skin of this some what rare animal. The tips of th long hairs are reddish brown. respect. Velvet wraps In startling hues, uch as geranium reds and cycla men mingle pleasingly with soft grays. Brocaded velvets and cloths, glisten ing with gold and silver are used. The Parisian dressmaker has a erase for sheer metal fabrics and ever so many French evening wraps are of velvet striped with silver tissue. Fre quently they are made entirely of gold tissue or of a mingling of mefhl tis sue and a handsomely brocaded velvet. A model noted recently was a black velvet striped with steel and trimmed with black fox. Fringes Arranged to Simulate Capelet. The fuchsia colorings have not met with the success that wus prophesied for them, or which one might have ex pected considering the wonderful showing of fuchsia shades by the groat French dressmakers In the au tumn. American dressmakers also ex ploited wraps, dresses and hats In all the violets, blues and pinks of the fuchsia blossom, but the American woman did not show much enthusiasm over these shades except to admire them In an Impersonal way. Perhaps their too frequent appearance kept women from buying clothes In any of these hues, for nobody wants to in vest In an expensive garment In a shade which will quickly become com mon and which definitely dates Itself. Salient features of the newest eve ning wraps are straight lines, orna mental Sleeves, puff collars and Waist length capelets. Sometimes the effect of a capelet Is produced by a band of embroidery or fur, or by fringe hang ing from the neckline to the hips. where It Is caught up In blouslng ef fect.. Interesting models are made with the capelet and lower portion or stdrt of the coat of fur aud the sleeves and the waist portion of velvet. Ermine Trims Gray Velvet Costume. Among the furs, sable, ermine, fox and various gray furs are used, the latter being featured on gray velvet wraps. Goat also is much in evi dence. Although used ou the eve ning models of velvet imported models of Dlack velvet being lavishly trimmed with white goat skin it Is better suited for daytime wear. A costume worked out in gray and white consists of a straight, full cape of gray velvet and a gray velvet frock. The cape Is attached to a deep er mine band, which forms the collar. The bottom is cut In deep points. The frock Is sleeveless and hns a bateau neckline. Vth neck and arm holes are embroidered In steel beads. From one side of a low placed girdle of steel hangs a very full tunic, also cut In points at the bottom. Placing a tunic on one side only Is an un usual und good method of Introduci ng variety into a plain chemise style. Diadem Toque With Shell Embroidery. An evening wrap from Worth Illus trating several of the new features Is developed in a lovely cerise velvet with an embroidery of cerise and sil ver on the sleeves, which are bordered with silver gray fox. The collar Is formed of velvet roses In all the lovely cherry shades. An interesting model Is of royal blue velvet, lined with silver cloth. This mantle matches a silver cloth eve ning gown with a scarf train of blue chiffon. At o recent social event in Paris a toilette of this description wbs completed with a I.anvin Russian dia dem toque of silver cloth embroidered In small shells, the greatest embroidery novelty of the season. Martial et Armand are having great success In their cape wraps, richly em broidered In high colors. One of these In blue velvet is collared with the new gray fur wlstatch, a cross-bred animal of South America, the mother of which is chinchilla. Among the things that add variety to the evening costume are head dresses with fans to match, and the fans made to rorrespond In color and fabric with evening dresses. The American woman shows that she does not absolutely follow the fashions set by Paris by not receiving with any degree of enthusiasm the lace fans In color to match gowns, which are so prominent in Paris. Rather have the women of this country chosen the old fashioned ostrich feather fan au un usual thing to do, considering the num ber of new and novel fans offered. A set, consisting of headdress with fan to match, seen recently was effec tively displayed by a dark-haired wom an who wore a dress of brown lace made over a foundation of red silk. The headdress consisted of a band of red velvet studded with jet disks. The band supported a wire hoop, from which trailed red ostrich fringe. The fan, In the same red shade, was made of long flues of pneuried ostrich. 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