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Journal Of A Trip South (Continued From Page 2) mr, a staring glance full of despair and pleading. ""Where you from, Mister?” he asked. "Texas,” I said. "Niggers about to take over there?” "We don’t worry about it too much,” I evaded. "You sure as hell ought to,’ he said. 1 glanced toward the back of the shop where a young Negro worked on at the shoe-shine stand as though he were deaf. I won dered what his thoughts were, how he restrained himself from walk ing out. Yet, an air of almost innocent concern marked the meeting, as though the men were sure the young Negro could not be offended because they were dis- j cussing the problem of protecting him too from the “communist” scheme of getting Negroes to ex ercise their sights as citizens. It was all too strange, strangest of all the fact that these men can not ,do not see that this ridicu- i lous posture fools no one but themselves. The small downtown area is “Old South,” a village surrounded by cotton country. I drove back to | the rectory through the Negro area — what the Whites here call 1 “niggertown” — a clutter of grey weathered houses and dust-pow dered chinaberry and cotton wood trees. The humid air carried fra- ! grance of fields into the town. A place of blindness, ignorance, anguish, and yet physically an appealing place, redolent of the past. The older ones cannot bear to see it change—as though jus- ! lice and dignity for all men would 1 shatter the picture. They ration alize by saying and finally be lieving that restoration of civil rights to all men would be the end of what they know and love, the end of the “southern way of life,” and the beginning of communism. What rot. But they talk of noth ing else. And at night they can still integrate with Negro women whom the System prostitutes: it is , a cherishable part of the old ways. 1 recall Sterling Williams’ state ment about whites: “Oh yes, they are much more democratic in their sinning than in their worship.” LATER Alter lunch I set out to make ; some photographs of the town. I j parked my car in front of the barbershop I visited this morn ing. The streets were almost de serted, but the few’ men who were out, watched suspiciously as I made several shots, particularly one of Negroes at a Loan Agency. I hoped they would take me for a tourist, and I shot my pictures | openly, obviously, the way a tour- j 1st would. But why should a tourist come to this little town? Certainly it was not a tourist attraction. I felt sure that every Negro in the area knew who I was and that I was staying under the same roof with a Negro priest. This j was all right. I could stay as long as no whites found it out and began to “worry” about it. When I returned to the car, I got none of the usual friendly nods. I felt the chill of their looks, changed from the warmth I had experienced earlier in the day. 1 thought I had better get away from the downtown section before they questioned me too closely. But my battery was dead. The car would not start. I sat in the jfurnace of the front seat and tried «t intervals to get the motor going. No one offered help or advice. Finally, 1 went into the barber shop and asked whom 1 could < telephone to come and get me started. They gave me a number to call. The answering voice said he would be there in a moment. A strange, uncomfortable silence filled the shop after I replaced the receiver on its hook. "Thank you for your help,” I said as I headed for the door. "Glad to help,” an older barber said. After a moment a large, heavily-muscled man arrived in a truck. He had a good face and he set about working on the car with great willingness to help. We finally got it started, both of us sweating through our clothes, and I followed him to his Service Station to have the battery charged. I parked the car outside and took my camera case into the Service Station. An older man sat at the desk. "Do you mind if 1 leave this in here w'hile he fixes the car?” I asked. He studied it intently for a time and read my name on the leather casing. "Are you John Griffin?” he asked with interest, such interest T fparp/1 hp linpu uihn 1 wa.c “Yes . . “Well, let me shake your hand,” he said with a broad smile. I put the camera case dow n on his desk and, mystified, shook hands. Surely it was not every day that a southern white man would show such enthusiasm over meeting me. “What you got in that case — a bomb?” he asked, beaming now with pleasure. “No — a camera and films,” I said. “I was afraid the heat would damage the negatives.” “Oh, I thought it was a bomb and you were headed for Bir mingham,” he said in a dis appointed tone. “I was going to give your gasoline free if it w^s.” “Not this time,” I said, wonder ing w hy, if he knew- me by name, he would think I could be in volved in such an action. Then it occurred to me that he perhaps thought I was that other John Griffin—a man noted in the South for his Klan activities. Surely that was it, for he began to talk compulsively about the “niggers” and what we could do about them. They re gening worse cveiv day here, Mr. Griffin,’’ he said. The younger man came in to join us. His amiable face cramped with disgust when he heard us speak of the “niggers.” “I tell you what—and for sure. They do just one more thing and I’m ready to go home and get my shotgun and just clean them out, he said earnestly. “What they been doing?” I asked. “Hell, you know,” the older man said. “They getting stiff lipped that’s what” “Oh that,” I said as though I knew what he meant. “How’re they' getting stiff-lipped around here?” “You know—they’ve gone to calling their nigger women Negro ladies and our white ladies White women. Damnedest thing you ever saw.” He told me that he was trying to get Negroes fired from jobs held around town—to teach them a lesson. He ranted against Ken nedy, said he wouldn’t be sur prised if someone assassinated the President if he ever dared come into that area. Another man entered and the station attendant introduced me as though 1 were a visiting celebrity. “Well, we’ve got a good town, Mr. Griffin,” the newcomer ex plained. “We’ve all been good to pur niggers—always been above ooard with them, always paid them fair wages, and fiankly, we ain't about to tolerate the way they’re acting these days. Why, 1 heard the niggers here are all saving money every month out of j their w ages to buy guns and am munition. It's going to be violence here — bad violence — but they’re inviting it.” “We can take care of them,” the older service-station man said. He lowered his head, glanced about to make sure w>e were not overheard, and said, “Mr. Griffin, we've got this plan. When it comes March, it gets windy around here. Well, if the niggers haven’t cut out all this ungodly crap about their rights by then, there’s about fifty of us going to meet here some night, each of us take five-gallon cans of gasoline. And we’ll put on masks and go right dowm through nigger to wm and burn the whole place out.” “Yea . . .” the younger man nodded, “just get rid of the w'hole bunch. That’s the only way to do it now.” I wondered how this harmon ized with their previous claims of having always been open and above-board wdth Negroes. The visitor shook our hands and left. “He’s a good man,” the older one said warmly. “Damn good,” the younger one agreed. “This town’s full of good i people,” the older one said. “They I been patient but they won’t stand for any foolishness.” “You just let the niggers try to put one of their kids—just one— over here in our white school,” the younger one said, his voice rising in exasperation. “By God . . ” “I’ll tell you this, Mr. Griffin,” the older one continued. “If they try that, we’ve got five hundred vchite men and we'll walk should er to shoulder through niggertown and kill every man, woman and kid—just like they was dogs.” “And we’re going to get rid of some of these damned white nigger - loving preachers, too,” the younger one said. "They’re the worst of all,” the older man said. "How’s that?” I asked. "Do you know w hat it says in the Bible about Simon Peter, Mr. Griffin?” the younger one asked. “You know% Simon Peter could walk on the water all right as long as he kept his eyes on Jesus. But the moment he took his eyes off Jesus, he just sanx rigm unuti the water. Well, that’s the way with our preachers here. As long as they kept their eyes on Jesus, they were fine. But they’ve done taken their eyes off of Jesus now. They’ve sold out for money to those integrationist bastards. We’re going to get rid of every one of them.” “They just plain turned their backs on Jesus—so let them sink, the older man said. “We got no use for that kind of preacher here.” A pick-up truck stopped at the gas tanks out front. Both men walked out to service it. I watch ed them closely, for the driver was a Negro. They laughed, ex changed pleasantries, and the two service station men opened up the front of the car and worked hard to repair whatever was wrong. Their willingness to help, their expression of relaxed good will with the Negro were wholly incongruous to the attitude they had shown inside the station. The truck-driver accompanied them inside to pay. “Now, we done you a special favor, didn’t we?” the attendant asked. “Yes sir, you sure did,” the Negr© said eagerly. “Now you’re going to be like i 6)1 the rest and keep coming back ' | wanting more and more special | favors,” the older one said in a half-joking way. I watched the driver carefully. His eyes hardened, but his voice remained respectful. “No Siree,” he said. “Now 3'ou know I've never asked you any Special favors before. I'm not like that.” "You’re all just alike,” the older man laughed, “—get any thing you can out of a white man.” "Not me. No sir. Not me,” the Negro said, his eyes glowing hatred, his voice wheedling. “I appreciate a favor. I don’t ever abuse one. You know that.” The two attendants appeared unaware of the Negro’s fury. The3’ believed the sound of his voice rather than the look in his eyes. When the pick-up had driven off, the older one turned to me. “He’s a good nigger,” he explain ed. “We always treat good nig gers good—do anything we can for them.” I open my mouth to ask, 'Tio you call that ‘treating him good’?” But 1 did not say it. He had seen only what he wanted to see in the driver’s reaction. He would not understand my question. We talked more—the old anec- j dotes about how God separated the birds and other animals—as though that had anything to do with Man. Finally, when my car was fixed, I took leave of them in an atmosphere of almost un believable "Christian - Brother hood” warmth, as though we were leaving a church meeting instead of one laden with violence and hatred. I returned here to the rectory and told Father about the talk. When I repeated what they said about marching through the Negro area and killing every man, woman and child "just like they was dogs,” Father smiled and said gently: "Well, of course, we just might have something to say about that. Do they think Negroes here are just going to sit there and let themselves be massacred?” My car was now known, and my name. We discussed biding my car for fear someone would see it in front of the rectory and noise it around town that the white man in whom they had confided was visiting the Negro priest. We decided no, we would hide nothing. "You’ve got every right to be here, and I have every right to have you in my home,” Father said. I asked him if there were any communication between the Negro „ community and the whites. "Of course not,” he said, "noth ing except the superficial give and take that we have every where in the South.” "Then howT can this kind of violence be avoided,” I said. "If you don’t know one another, if (Continued on Page 4) 1 new hidden strength in Hanes newest seamless stockings Style 415 $1.50 Colors: Boli Rose South Pacific Borely There _