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i'tiH PjLClFiC COAnfKllCIAIi ADVEBTISER: HONOIUIU, NOVEMBER 12, 1S04.
5 NEW YORK FASHIONS. MATc LtKOY MORALIZES ON THE FEATHER AND FUR SUPPLY. iinnifM Animal Tsacrinrrd to FumUU Laxariotu Garment For Tender Hearted Xdie rrermJUns Style In Sable, KwU and Other For. ' (OopyriKht, br American Irtrsi Associa tion. I havo just spent threo hours listening to Bomo Lulles who wcro talking with pro found sympathy and real earnestness gainst the cruel fashion of killing birds for tho purpos of adorning millinery. Thcro wa not one of thrm whoso attiru did not contain hilk In it somewhere. TfcIr shoos were made of tho leather that had once bee-n tho skin of omo animal, and it is rnoro than probablo that tho ani- WKECTOIKE jacket. real did noi survive? tho skliinln opera tion. They wore khl gloves, and after tho tension was over tho Indies funned Into little groups, and the xao.st of them !egan to talk about furs. One of tho ladies, whose soft eyes had more than oneo filled with tears while speaking of tho wanton slaughter of birds, paid that she was having a long mantle made of moiro astrakhan. It would take 40 of these skins to make her wrap at $5 each, but it was to be something elegant when done. I was not among the speak ers or I should have liked to rle and say something about that beautiful fur called moiro astrakhan. I wonder how many women who wear that fur know that it has cost tho life not only of the little ani mal, but also that of the mother. hc Is cruelly murdered just beforo tho timo for I er young to Ik? Ixiro, and tho unborn creature is instantly skinnod beforo tho hr.ir has a chanco to curl. It is afterward ujed to that glossy black. The curled astrakhan or Persian is pro duced In a manner scarcely leas cruel. Tho animal as soon as it is born is sewed into a sack of coarse cloth, with its head and feet out. It may live in this way a few miserable weeks, when it is sacrificed. Tho hair is by that time kinked up close ly. It takes hundreds of ermines, little creatures no larger than one's hand when living, to make a medium sizd wrap, and thousands upon thousands of other ani mals are killed to obtain their fur tc adorn beauty. Perhaps theo women think with Lockycr: ' You larky littl kid, Yoa frijh'd, to yea did. For niy sweet. From the leginnir:g I think women must have lcn born cruel. Men as soon as they could find wool, cotton, flax and linen loft off wcariiigrfurs, but no woman is perfectly happy without something that costs not only money, but life and blood. I do not blame tho tender hearfxl ones for saying all they do against the daughter of the birds, for ornaments, but why do they never say anything against the killing of animals, the tailing of tho silkworms and such things? Why arc they not consistent enough to wear cotton gloves, only woolen and cotton fiber, with perhaps a llttlo linen, too, when tho weather permit? JJut. then, who ever knew a consistent, person? It does look odd, though, that tho men who do the kill Incr don't wear tho furs, :.-.id the women who preach kindness, etc., are tho ones who will have them, no matter if bal-y fcals and goat mothers cry out pitifully against it. Hut, after all, there is a senso of com fort that nothing else can give in a warm fur garment. It not only feels nice, but looks so, too, and so the wearers quietly ignore the slaughter of tho animals and talk about tho inhumanity toward the birds. What with flower.', ribbon velvets and laco and metals and jewels they can adorn their hats without feathers, but furs are a necessity, and besides the ani mals, being d.id, do not need their skins uijy longer. That Is how they reason, and I think I did, too, during t lie past week. I have been to the "openings" of tho swell fur houses, and if anything is calculated to blunt the sensibilities on tho joint of the slaughter of tho animals it Is to look at, admire and handle the beauti ful garments made of fur. First among all furs is tho Russian sa ble. I saw a mantlo of that peerless fur lifced with ermine. The mantle was about mm mm mr kew vicroniNns. 40 inches iin.c and had a medicis collar. It coft ?T,.U . Next to that is the black toz., but there is little of th.-.t in market, and when a cape or other garment is made of that fur it is so rare that it is sold bo tore one can fairly see it and bought by those who string their diamonds on wires. Ilirh leng Prince AHrt coats are made of sval, which is even more popular than frer. Hiort flaring cnies an? made of it and jackets. Fine seal is rare this season, but for beauty and becoraingness it has no cquaL Then tnro 1 the marten, almost its handsome as sable, and no end to differ rut xancxes m niacK i'ersian. incre nn thr.-e-ouarter ccats buttoned down In sin- j m gte orcastca and aoume Ure&stea styit with enormous diroctolr and lncroyable collars and rovers, with gigot sleeves, as perfectly draped as If made of cloth. But tons aro used on theso, instead of loops or fancy agraffes. There are dozens of fancies and designs in military capes or mantles, quite full, some plain save for tho collar and some having a fluted collarette, with a stole ar rangement of 6omo thick fluffy fur like black bear. Thero aro capes of different styles of moire astrakhan lined with Si berian squirrel or lined with satin Irides cent silk or rich brocade. dq viciorino is iiie novelty or tne sea son and Is to wear over thick and warm raits. It consists of a very full capo somo- times reaching only half way to tho waist, but always having the long stolo tabs reaching to tho bottom of the dress. There Is always a high, largo collar well up around the cars and back of tho neck. This collar varies In shape and is all that distinguishes tho victorine of today from thoso of time or four generations ago. Thero Is generally a mull to match quite 15 Inches long, a good comfortable and roomy muff, big enough to hold the results of half a day's shopping. Tho black bear victorines aro handsomer than any others, I think. Then Is a long coat shown made of thick cheviot or other shaggy wool, and this is lapped to tho left sido and slightly draped across tho front, just enough to break tho straight lines from shoulder to tho foot of the skirt, and these broken lines aro from bust to waist line and possibly a little be low. A here is an enormous collar mauo of black bearskin worn surplice fashion and fastening at tho left side. The sleeves ore sometimes gigot and sometimes bishop. The rich elegance of this stylo of garment can scarcely o described. A muff of the Fame fur should go with this. The collar is a simple curved rolling shape, but reaches from the ears to tho outer lino of tho shoulders and covers tho bust. The coat is quite plain in all other respects. but is warmly lined, sometimes fur lined. Tho general tendency of tho new fur garments for more ordl nary wear has been toward coat effects. Tho Prince Albert is sometimes almost to the bottom of the skirt, and again It reaches scarcely to tho knees. It fits tho figure snugly. This Is rarely mado in anything except 6eal moire, astrakhan and Persian, and it has always a tiat collar ana revcrs ana buttons. Tne jackets are snug fitting and are long or short in tho skirts as may be, so as to give a largo selection to choose from. Several of tho jackets have very short and full skirts, sprung like cloth or fluted In godet plaits. Some have the revers and storm collar of some other and contrasting fur. One most stylish jacket of Persian was cut away in front and lapped diagonally across the bust and from there turned back a largo Incroyable revcrs. . Tho high collar turned over just as deep as it was high. The skirt was sprung very full and tho sleeves gigot. The whole jacket was re markably stylish and smart. I saw two or three mantles, with full cape, opening ovr a vest front of tho fur. PF.iXCE ALBERT COAT AND XW STOLE MANTLE. One had a plaited collar, which extended in rovers down to tho bottom. There was a pointed storm collar. For young ladies there is an infinite variety of small pointed collars, all fluted, sprung or plaited and of many kinds of fur, but mostly Persian. For them also are piles of fur neck scarfs and boas. The boas aro long and large. The scarfs are short, but much thicker than ever be fore. Some have heads and tails, but somo are round at tho ends. These aro of bear, plucked raccoon, a few of plucked beaver and sea otter, the last being very dear, seal and Alaska sable and a number of other furs of less Importance and some chinchilla. For evening there are magnificent long mantles made of fine wool or silk brocade, and these are lined with Siberian squirrel cr some other suitable fur. The colors are gray, mode, blue, pink and white for the outsides. Some have collars of rich lace over some bright colored satin, others jew eled passementerie trimming, but all bor dered with fluffy white angora or a thick long fur of a delicato drab, shading on the ends to a rich brown. I do not re member tho namo of this fur, but it must be very choice, as I saw a set of furs of this same kind that had taken a prlzo at tho Columbian fair. Somo of these long wraps were cut circular shape, but the others were shirred in, plaited or draped a little just enough to give them grace and elegance. Coral pink with somo of that shaded fur made ono'exquisit? long open cloak. So much for tho nicest and newest furs. In another place I saw somo very chic short capes of velour du nord, fur trimmed, and some electric seal collarettes that gave a pretty effect at trifling cost. Seal plush rollars bound with real seal are pretty, too, for ordinary wear. They are mado ex actly as if they were of genuine seal and are by no means to be despised as articles of adornment. Among the new goods that look best trimmed with fur are the knotted cloth, bourette, tufted and plain cheviots and brocaded camel's hair. There are also a number of fine woolen brocades and shag gy camel's hair, and they take on a new beauty when adorned by fur. There aro many long mantles of seal plush, trimmed richly with fur and sometimes lined with fur. Moiro astiakhan, Persian and war an.' among the easiest iurs to manage when an amateur wishes to use it. So far I do net think there will bo so much fur used on indoor garments as thero waf. leaver stems to Ik? cout," but coon down "in," as dainty trimming. Little lynx or any of that kind of fur is cscd. It is nearly nai rowed down really to seal, Persian and moire. I might men tion moufflon as a pretty and dressy trim ming for home gowns and handsome even ing wraps. Angora Is the children's far altogether this year. Mate Leroy. Ml?s Adelaide Utrcr of Kansas City, who was electwl corresponding secretary of the Social Science Federation at its last meeting, is also clerk of the circuit ourL M Ladies' Column. Good things need not be high-priced, there are certain prices though, below which no good, honest article can be sold those are our prices what we call Quick Sales and Small Profit prices. If you pay less you can rest assured you get less. These are hon est statements that econom ical buyers know are you one of them? If not, why not? Call and see those niagm ficient Cotton Crepes in Even ing Shades. Nothing hand somer or better was ever offered in this market at our prices, "And there you are." Go through the Colored and Figured Cotton Ducks, tho Ginghams, Oxfords, Calicos, Colored French Oryandies, Black French Lawns, Linen Lawns, pick up whatever you will and but a moment s in spection will convince you that if you pay less you will get less. If you want to go to the Volcano the one holding the largest number of our checks will get the round trip for nothing. Remember this please. We are slashing the prices this week on WOOLEN BLANKETS and WOOLEN SHAWLS, making room for i i our immense siock or CHRISTMAS GOODS. tSWe want your trade and will have it if goods and prices are an object to you. B. F. EHLEliS & CO. A in Walking Jackets ONE DOLLAB, Get one now as they will be on Sale but a few days at this price. J. J. EG AN. 3S19-tf METHODIST Episcopal Church Services T)EGINNIXG ON SUNDAY. OCTO- J ber 14th, regular morning and evening services will be held bv the Methodist Episcopal Church of Hono lulu. KEY. H, W. PECK. Pastor, in the Hall, at the corner of Fort and Hotel streets (formerly Annexation Club Rooms). A formal organization of this Church will take place on the first Sunday in November. All Christians not affiliated with any other Evangelical church are invited to unite in thia organization. 3311-lni LEA Ctnrral SUiTttrtisfinfute. SCHILLER ! SCHILLER AN "AMERICAN" "D Cabinet r- Grand -i LOOK WELL. WJSAii WJSLIi, SOUND WELL. Examine these beautiful Instruments at the MUSIC DEPARTMENT, H-A.WlIIN NEWS COMPANY JOHN Steel and Iron Ranges, sousxmpiso aocr-s ikd kitche utzxsils, AGATE WARE IN GREAT VARIETY. White, Grey ami ?iiver-pita 33 LIFT AND FORCE PUMPS. WATER Plumbers Stock, Water and Plumbing:, Tin, Copper DIMOND BLOCK. 95 JXJSX ARRIVED PER BARK C. BRYANT. BABY CARRIAGES of all styles, CARPETS, RUGS, and MATS in the latest patterns, " Hcmseliold 99 Sewing: Machines HandSewing Machines, all with the latest improvements. Also on hand Westermayers Celebrated Cottage Pianos Parlor Organs, Guitars and other Musical Instruments. tsiT'For sale by ED. HOFFSCHLAEGER & CO K King Street, opposite Castle s Cookb, Qive the Baby iNFANTSlNVALIDS. MM BENSON, SMITH & CO., Sole Agents Daily Advertiser, 75 DELIVERED BY SCHILLER SCHILLER -O- Jiano Upright VFAKIiANTED FOR 5 YEAKS Stoves and Fixtures HO BE I CLOSETS, METALS, Sol) Pipes. and Sheet Iron Work: and 97 KIKQ STREET. A Perfect Nutriment for growing Children. Convalescents, CONSUMPTIVES. DYSPEPTICS, and the Aged, and in Acute illness and all Waetinc Diseases. THE Best Food for Hand-fed Infants. OI'R HOOK for the Instruction of mothers. -The Care and Feed, ine of Infants, "will be mailed free. to any addrt-ss, upon request. DOLIBER-GOODALE CO BOSTON, MASS.. U. S. A. for t hi- Hawaiian Islands. Cents per Month CARRIER, NOTT. ia- - , , . --.1 &r . xrrt" ; ' "" 1 11 ' lill..HIL ...J. 1 I JIHIMJ BJ i JDST REGHVED J. T. Waterhouse No. 10 Store LADIES AND GENT S BATHING SUITS ! Ladies' and Children's Cloaks and Jackets, Children's Pinaforei;, Silt, Shetland and Wool Shawls KID GLOVES, CHAMOIS GLOVES, LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S Hats and Bonnets ! TRIMMED AND UNTRIMMED, Dress Goods in preat variety, Rainbow and Embroidered Crape, Feathers and Flowers New Curtain Materials, Silk and Velvet Ribbons, Leather and Silver Belts, Novelties in Rucking Chiffon Handkerchiefs and Ties, LACE AND EMBROIDERED FLOUNCING S ! Wholesale and Retail FULL LINE OF JAPANESE GOODS and Cotton Dress Goods, SILK, LINEN AND CREPE SHIRTS of complete stock made by Yama toya of Yokohama. Straw Hats, Neckwears, Sashes, Shawls, etc PROVISIONS in general. TEAS OP LITEST IMPORTATION Etc., Etc., Etc., Etc. When vou are in need of any line of Japanese Goods, give us first call and save your going all around town. Importer of Japanese Goods 206 Fort St., near Custom House. 3395-tf CENTRAL MARKET! NTJXJA.TSTTJ BTREET. First-class Market in every respect; be sides carrying a lull line of Meats, we make a specialty of Breakfast Sausages, Head Cheese, Pressed Corn. X$ef. WESTBR00K 6 GARES, 3437-q Pbopbibtob. An Open Letter TO THE LADIES OF HONOLULU ! I WILL FOR THE NEXT TWO weeks SELL GOODS AT COST to make room for Holiday Goods. X?-The Good9 are all fresh and of the latest ftyles. M. HANNA, FOKT STREET. 3811-lm r