THJS PACIFIC COMM3SBCIAI, ABVBBTISEBi HONOLTJI.XJ, JANUARY 11, 1895,
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NEW YORK FASHIONS.
BECOMING GARMENTS FOR THE GIRLS
OF THE FAMILY.
ftft Leroy Advocates Studied Simplicity
and Cites Some Charming CojtomM In
Support of Her Theory Cowm Seen at
the Flower Show w Waterproof.
Copyright, by American Press Associa
tion. In Franco and Germany there exists an
jnwritten law governing the dressing of
Iho young girls of the family, not the Ut
ile girls, but thoso between 16 and 20, and,
in fact, all unmarried ladles who are
roung. There is a studied simplicity about
Ihelr attire that throws into higher relief
the youthful freshness of the facend the
jlrnder grace of the young girl. As a gen
fral rule, our young Americans do not
take kindly to the severe simplicity of
their sisters from over tbo sea, and they
lose more than they know by the differ-
HOME DRESS FOB YOXTSQ LADY.
f nee. It Is only of late years that mothers
begin to understand the matter of their
daughters' dress in this country, and in
the most refined families we now see a
gleam of reason Ebowlng in the plain white
and tinted frocks for the daughters. The
white or light material may be of any
quality, but the studled4slmpllcity is there.
No jewels should find place, and no real
lace, which is the dowager's consolation,
should be seen. Light tulles, muslins,
ere pons, f ayetta, cry stallette and soft, thin
silks, with, in some cases, a little point de
Paris or oriental lace, form the list of suit
able fabrics for young ladies for dinner, re
ception and dancing gowns. Ribbons,
however, are allowable, as ribbon, like
death, has all seasons for its own, from
babyhood to old age.
For home wear the young girl should
bear in mind that the fresh bloom of her
ropy cheeks is enhanced by plain, quiet
colors, and in no case should the young
wearer adopt glaring colors or a profusion
of ornament. Grays, drabs, brown and hary
and delicate mixtures should suffice. But
everything that - youny lady wears should
be of the nust inosculate neatness. In
France the young lady wears light gray
from preference, and with this fcnowy cuffs
and collar of linen, with very little ribbon
and absolutely no jewels unless possibly
one small ring of turquoise or pearl. The
French girl wears gloves as nearly the
whole time as she can for the double pur
pose of keeping her hands white and soft
and in perfect shape.
The young German girl is too busy to
.wear gloves in tho house, her thrifty fin
gers being always occupied in sewing,
knitting or in some other household duties.
Her hands are not quite as delicate as
thoso of her French sister, but they bring
far more comfort and blessing to her home.
A gown worn by the young daughter of a
grand German family now in New York
was made of twilled serge in dark .blue,
with a lighter shade showing beneath, and
had a plain demitrain skirt, this probably
because the young lady is not very tall,
and trained skirts apparently add to the
height. The waist was plain except for a
very slight drapery obtained by not taking
up the darts in the materi-.l, but taking
in those in the lining. T!.o sleeves were
puffed and very -prettily draped up the
center. On the front of tho upper part of
the skirt there were 11 6 traps of ribbon,
the shortest one being in the center and
the rest graduated in length. This ribbon
was blue grosgrain of exactly the shade of
tho underlying color, and they were all
edged by a blue and silver braid. On the
shoulders there were bows and straps, and
three short ones were placed between the
draped material with pretty effect. The
ribbon that was put over the shoulders
was wider than the other and was brought
down to a point in the back, and there end
USEFUL SHORT CAPE FOB TOUG LADT.
fd in a double bow and long floating ends.
This gown was considered quite a festive
one for the young wearer, and she surely
looked lovely in it.
To be well dressed is not always to be
flashily dressed, and the young gentle
woman of today in this country begins to
realize that fact. Plainer out and in door
gowns are the result, and it is well so.
The prettiest outfit that was worn at the
chrysanthemum show by a girl under 20
was a brown and terra cotta plaid dress,
with three or four rows of dull black cas
tle braid around the bottom. The 6kirt
was a simple three piece one, stylish, but
not remarkable. Over this she wore a
pretty triple cape cf terra cotta cloth, with
a plaid surah lining and bands of Alaska
sable around all of the capes and around
the snug turndown collar. . Her hat was
of brown felt cf the Mercury shape, with
brown oIah trimmina arranged like
"iij
compiexicm pxxtt beautifully.
flower shows bring ouVfeome beau
tlXuI costumes, but the tasteful woman
makes a point of wearing sober colors, for
nothing ele will bear contrast with the
flowers. One lady wore a dull frosty green
elour du nord, with the princess shape
well defined by fine sprays of black jet
passementerie following the seams from
the neck to below the knees, tapering to a
tendril at the bottom. Her figure was su
perb, and for that reason she wore no
wrap, but she had a black ostrich boa,
large and long, out of which her fair face
peeped like another flower. Another lady
had a terra cotta velutina costume. The
iklrt was cut In a circular form and fell
In thick folds, the electrlo light bringing
out all tho superb shadings of the color
tnd fabric Around the bottom there was
a narrow band of a yellowish tipped fur.
The waist was lapped over in deep crushed
folds to obtain the best effect of the ma
terial, and the sleeves were immense
draped glgots, the wrists edged with fur.
There was a 6hort Hungarian military
capo thrown over one shoulder, held by a
heavy gold chain and clasp and lined with
maize brocade. Tho cape was bordered on
the bottom with two narrow rows of fur,
and the collar was trimmed In a similar
manner. Tho lady wore a bonnet so small
that one had to look twice to see if it was
a bonnet or a fancy bow of velvet. The
wearer looked like an animated chrysan
themum herself. She was a pronounced
brunette.
To return to the question of suitable
habiliments for young ladies, I may men
tion a street costume that was recently
imported. The skirt shows that most
graceful of draperies, tho "wrinkled
front," and on each side there is a wedge
shaped band of black astrakhan. I should
have said that the dress is of seal brown
camel's hair suiting. The back breadths
are held in loose plaits. The basque is in
plaits in front, blouse fashion, while in
the back it is straight and in one piece.
The belt is of astrakhan, with a cut steel
buckle. There ts a series of turrets ten
inches deep, each . bound with astrakhan,
and there is a shoulder capo slashed in the
same manner, and also bound with astra
khan. . The collar is of the same. There
may or may not be another wrap, accord
ing to the .weather. It is e$peeted that
this costume as it now is will prove suffi
ciently warm, bufc a wadded rest : or a
wrap or jacket to bo tasteful should follow
the general placet the rest of the costume.
It is youthful and handsome.
The new waterproof garments are ex
ceptionally handsome. I say that advised
ly, for the ugly old ill smelling waterproof
cape is a thing of the past. Garments In
tended to protect the wearer are made of
cravanette, which is a handsome woolen
fabric coming in different colors and look
ing like ordinary dress material, but by
some treatment or other it is perfectly wa
terproof. This is made into ulsters with
or without capes and hoods, but generally
with them. They ore porous and liot gum
med. There is . still another waterproof
fabric which has a surface like wool in
STREET COSTUME FOR Y0U5.G LADY.
plaids and stripes and shepherd's checks
on tho surface and a thin gummed lining.
These also sometimes have silk for the
outer fabric, but they aro in a lesser de
gree open to the objections of the old mack
intosh. Some and, in fact, the most of
tbo cravanette waterproofs are made up
with the same care and style as if they
were regulation stuffs for other cloaks.
For dust proofs for winter travel the silk
warp henriettas are being used. They aro
nicer for the purpose than silk. Some of
the tailor made short length capes of mel
ton in tan, navy and brown, with velvet
collars, are very chlo and 6tyllsh. THo
Trilby cape is also "in" for a run. These
aro always of melton only, while the other
capes may be of anything woolen. There
aro two or three new woolen stuffs shown
as novelties. One is called unfinished, and
it has a rough, scratchy appearance. An
other has the surface nearly covered with
little knots, just such as you tie in your
thread when sewing. It is very odd and
for that reason pleases.
I noticed some beautiful new armure
and taffeta fancies in silks and a line of
foulards. These last are expected to be
the leading spring silk?, r.nd they are not
on 6ale yet, but a few dealers are showing
them as high novelties to favored custom
ers. They are twilled, very soft to the
touch and polka dotted. Some are black,
with white dots end others ore colored.
There arc colored grounds, with black
dots. There are several new ideas in
moires and figured 6atin danwik in black
and colors suitable for street wear lor ma
trons. In 1-eau de soie there ure many
new effects, mostly obtained through
Cgurings, and thciv Is a limitless number
of designs in what they call illuminated
fancies in black and colors. All these are
duplicated in the fine black dress goods.
Many very rich gowns are being made of
the heavy corded silk. I saw one yester
day with a full godet skirt. Around the
bottom were two milliner's folds of black
Fatin, each surmounted by a fine line of
jot galloon. The waist was trimmed with
a flat bertha of plain satin notched and
edged with jet, and there was a draped
collar of magenta velvet. Moire granite is
another well liked silk and is being pro
duced in dozens of designs. Grosgrain,
plain and ligured, is the favorite silk,
and after that the reps and corded. I
have noticed some terry velvet, as It used
to be called. Uncut they call it now. It
looks like extremely heavy reps silk. It is
superb for cloaks. Gros de Londres, im
perial twills, some faille and armure luxor
satin duchess taffetas and brocades are all
worn. Plaids are used for linings and
waists.
Shoes are being filed down to a sharper
and more lengthened point than ever, and
the foxlngs are cut and stitched in won
derful patterns. It is necessary to fill the
toes with cotton to keep'the roint in shape.
They look well enough, but are instru
ments of the keenest torture.
Mate Lef.oy.
The Hawaiian Gazette Company
manufacture rubber et snaps cf all
descriptions.
Ladies' Column.
In entering upon the New
Year, we do so realizing that
nothing can give the intelli
gent or judicious buyers more
satisfaction than to have us
stick to our QUICK SALES
AND SMALL PROFITS SYS
TEM. It has been the means
of saving them money on
every purchase made of us.
While to us it has increased
our trade nfrom the day we
adopted it.
We will have no shelves for
shop worn goods, NEW
GOODS, GOOD GOODS, STY
LISH GOODS, and plenty of
them, with a reasonable price
fixed on them will be the
order of this coming year's
business. We want your trade
and will have it, if goods and
prices have anything to do
with your buying.
We propose to keep in touch
with New York, Paris and
London, at as near their prices
as is consistent.
Each Department in the
STORE will be found to con
tain a Choice and Varied
Selection of the Newest and
most Fashionable Materials
and Garments v of every des
cription. We want you to get
into the habit of expecting
this, ana inspecting our stock.
It will save you time, trouble
and money.
. This week we have some
fine Indian Rugs, some Car
pets and Curtains that you
will make no mistake by buy
ing. The contest over our Vol
cano Trip closed Wednesday.
Miss. J. Tanner, Royal School,
presented us 275 checks, many
of which she collected from
her friends, thus enabling her
to secure the ticket. Miss
Greenwald came in a good
second with 195 checks.
B. E. EHLEBS & CO.
QUT OF SIGHT
DOES SOT APPLY TO
!
FOR THEY ARE
Always in Sight
NCTHIXG BETTER FOR A
Present !
AND NO BETTER PLACE TO GET
THEM THAN AT
KINO
3 S 57-1
HOTEL STRKET.
Jas. W. Bergstrom,
PIANO, PIPE AND RBED ORGAN
Tuner and Repairer. Orders left &
1 brum's Eookstoie, will receive prompt
attention. 3866-y
WE MANUFACTURE
Rubber Stamps !
Self-inkinz any s;z. Daters with
removable or changeable reading matter.
Band Daters; can be changed each
day without soiling fingers.
RUBBER STAMP MANUFACTURERS
Hawaiian Gazette Company.
Send for your Plates and get your cards
printed in Honolulu from 'Engraved
Plates.
Orders taken for Steel Plates and the
printing done here.
HAWAIIAN GAZETTE COMPANY.
3S6S-tf
Bead This !
IF YOU WANT A MOTIVE TOWER,
order a Regan Vapor or Pacoic
Gab Engine; they are the" beet, eafeat
and simplest in the world.
JOS. TINKER,
Sole Ag3nt.
3Cf?end for catalogue. Honolulu,
H. I. S6SS-tf
PICTUKES
Christmas
BROS
405
Commission Merchant, Wholesale and Retail
Silk Goods, Cotton Crepes, Underwear, Towels, Hats and Cape ; Fine Line oi
Japanese Metal consisting oi Match Safes, Ash Trays, Card Cases, Soap
Boxes, Decorated Japanese Hand Bags, etc.
Just received by China and Bentala from Japan, Fro visions, Matting, Toilet
Soap, Cotton and Silk Goods, etc
Bam pies of all kinds of Japanese Goods which I can import on short notice.
Japanese Medical Instruments and Medicines.
CCTTry our S. T. TEAS. Prices the lowest.
JOHN
1 . .-raft "m i i. rr
;: 7 .Jy-!: ;
- I : ""-; ' ' r, :
Steel and Iron Banges, Stoves and EHxtnres
sorsmiPiss goods no iitcho irrRsii&
AGATE WAKE IN GEEAT VAEIETY.
White, Gray
RUBBER
LIFT AHD FORCE PUMPS, WATES CLOSETS, ZIETAL&,
" Plumbers' Stock, Water &sd Sell Pipe. ' " .
Plumbing, Tic, Copper and Sheet iron Worlf,
0 .
DUIOOT Rt-oOK 95 and 87 KJKO 8TSSTJT
ENTEEPRISE
PETER HIGH & C0
OFFICE AND JVII3Li:m
Alakea and Eichards sear
MOULDINGS,
Doors, Sash, Blinds, Screens. Frames, Ete
TURNED AND SAWED WORK.
CZJ Prompt attention to all orders.
TELBPEON re H
MUTUAL 65.
PER BABK C. . BRYANT
BABY CARRIAGES of all styles,
CARPETS, RUGS, and MATS in the latest patterns,
Honseliold 99 Sewing Machines
Hand Sewing Machines, all with the latest improvement.
Also on hand
Westfermayers Celebrated Cottage Pianos
Parlor Organs, Guitars and other Musical Instruments.
tHFor sale by
ED. HOFFSCHLAEGER & CO .
Tviner Street, oiroosite Castle b Cookb
Give the Baby
""FOR ""El AND
INFANTS
INVALIDS.
BENSON, SMITH & CO.,
Sole Agents for tlie Hawaiian Island.
IWAKAMT SHOTEN,
Hotel Street.
(NEXT DOOR
We "wiEh to call rour attention to onr very compete stock of Japanes Silk and
Cotton Crepes, Hlk "Shirts and Pajamap. A fine assortment of Silk Handkerchiefs
and Kecktie9 for Ladies and ients. Silk Shoulder Shawls, Kimonos an4 Jewelry ;
Bamboo Screens and Mattings, Japanese Crockery and China Ware, Parasols and
Umbrellas ; Lacquer Ware, Lanterns for decorations; Fancy Articles afnd Toys of
all descriptions, the verv things for fcoliday presents.
IWAKAMI SHOTEN.
KING STKEET,
NOTT,
end Silver-plated.
PLANING MM
Prop ristcrs. u j
Queen Street, Hcaclirla. H I
fiaCT" BELL 4B8.
A Perfect Nutriment
won growing Children.
ConvXlescents,
consumptives,
Dyspeptics,
and the Actd, and
in Amte I line and
all Wasting Diseases
THE
Best Food
for Hand-fed Infants.
OrR BOOK for the inrtrjcticn
cf mothers. "The Care and Feed
in of InCanl,"" ill be miuletiree
to auy address, upon request.
DOLIBER-GOODALE CO,
BOSTON, MASS.. U. C. A.
JEJ USE
PECK'S COMMISSION ROOMS.)
i
J. T. Waterhouse
No. 10 Store
ladies' and gent's
BATHING SUITS !
Ladies' and Children's Cloain
and Jackets,
Children's Xinafore8,'
Silk, Shetland and WcdI Shtfj
KID GLOVES,
CHAMOIS GLOVES
LADIES AND CHILDBEirS
TRIMMED AND UNTIiniilEI),
Dress Goods in great variety,
Rainbow and Embroidered
Crape, !. ..y-
Feathers and Flowern
New Curtain Materials, ;
-Silk and Velvet RihbnnL
T.AnfViAwnn G1 TJ 1 Lmm
jjcauuci tuiu km. vol xCiiy,
Novelties in KHcMii
Chiffon Handkerchiefs ana
- .Ties, ;; . : . ; ;: ' f; r
. LACE AND EMBE0IDHR2D
tit rvTTTfr nT TCT SH n 9
J? LIU V IN KjljS io I
.3523
THp Fafe : hi flip ' Sfpampr
- . It - ...
IIIU LUIUUI UJ MJU uiumuui
II
China!51
Silk Goods,
Silk Shirts,
Silk Underwear,
Straw Hats,
Cotton Crape,
Also a fine assortment of
Of every description.
gjJFThe finest Japanese Goods in
town.
K. FUEUYA,
Robinson Block. Hotel Street.
3653-v
Election of Officers.
ATA MEETING OF THE CHINESE
J Fire Company held Wednesday
night, January 2, 1895, the following
officers were re-elected :
Foreman.... Chang Kim
First Assistant M. O. Amana
Pecond Assistant H. fiingFook
Treasurer Lam Sing
Secretary Lau Chong
3SS3-3t
JUST fffl
Bats
and Boieis!
JAPANESE
GOODS