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TUB I'AOIPIO COMMERCIAL AJJVJSIlTISEItj . HONOLULU, JANUARY . 'U, 1695.
5 NEW YORK FASHIONS. THE GAY SEASON BRINGS OUT MANY BEAUTIFUL COSTUMES. wct Simplicity at ltUcouut la th. (ivwui wf the 'lr lNclulutc - IWool lcU l the Open. EtcuIuk Wrp and Clonk -Tbe Nw bklrt. C'vpjrrult, law, Vjr Aa.tric.a With the opera eaaon at lu height, and the ball bcfcKn juit beginning, the brain b In a whirl with tho beautiful gowot, jewel and wrap. Svre tixnpllolty U jut a llttlo at a Uloount o far, for th Uraav even for tb Uratantc ara extra fine and ara nearly as rloh a the for their klitvr whoa two and ihrve aeaaona glv thn the right to ooatlj fabric In ktad of tha traditional inull and lull a. Cvrtalnl tbe younger me rubers of society do waar plain a&d kl tuple gowns, but the rule Is belntf disregard xl mow this win tor than 1 remember to have en for aereral aeaaona. It U quite admissible to have ever dane iDg gowva of silk of quit heavy texture, but the fcleevea and draperies of such drvsfcee arealwajs of fliiu&y. fluttering ma- KYXSISO COWSS. terlaL One girl, with a wealth of dark hair, had a town of changing ullk, hold ing opaline tints. The sfctrt was piain Around the bottom, and it wa cut danc ing length and laid la organ pipe plait in the back. The short waist had a small point in front, and around thU was a very full plaiting of black chiffon, which ex tended down each side In jabo6 plait, ending in loose scarf ends of the chiffon, the end of wfcich were embroidered with gold. Thero wa an extrvcuely full bertha of the same reaching to the bottom of the waist In the front. Thrnwas a stomaoher cf geld embroidvry, with the chiffon draped above it Into a short point. There were no sleeves. A black chiffon fan, with gold spangles, was worn with this Kown, and a black velvet dog collar sowed with pearl beads made the white neck look still whiter. Another lovely drvt?s for a young lady was of pink and gray tripod taffeta. The skirt was gathered full In the bock and fitted to the figure In front. Around the bottom was a f estooced Uwnce-of white ori ental lace, wrth pink losettea on the apex cf each festoon. The oorsage was pointed In front and bad a full poet ikon baek, made of lace ever tbe maiexial In aaeh a way that be L oc like a faau The sleeven wero cf the came material drapvd up h uener nnl jcVJ-Tewnl at the elbows over a fall cf lacw. Tbe nock was cut square, and tho n rates were, dmpod in with whlto tullo. Tbore wuae srvcral ro settes made cf pale pink silk set on tbe shoulders over the fall bertha of lace. There was a little fancy bag of brocaded satin, with a quantity cf loops cf pink rib bon. This gown was Cor a second season belle. For a chaperon to these young ladies there was a quiet costume of aah gray gros graln, made plainly and having puffed sleerea. Acres the shoulders were a Marie Antoinette flahuof dark blue and gray striped moire and an lncroyable cf white and silver striped silk masMn. AH these gowns axe equally suitable for grand opera and balL It Is not, however, considered absolutely necessary for a lady to wear a low cut drees at the opera. Some ladies do not care to wear decollete gowns In so public a place, and some do not care to risk their Uvea la the treacher ous drafts of air. And for those ladles the dressmakers have devised some very hand some costumes. I saw one dresa fcr a lady whose wealth and beauty nd sweetness make her a leader, and it w.i worthy of a careful description. The skirt was of hunter's green velutina and was in the approved bell shape, quite untrimmed, save for a narrow line of sable fur. The corsage had a slight point in front, and the maxerlal was drawn down to a fancy heckle. There was a swias corselet of sil ver braid set on like chain mail, and this was bordered with sable all around. The front wa filled with a loose drapery of the velutina. The collar was also of that and had an Inner border of sable. The large gis sleeves were of rich satin duch ess striped fa fawn and green. There was a bow cf velvrt rltbcn set In the center cf the sleeves." On the wrist the lady wore what la called the finest emerald In this country set around with pearls. The unmarried sister of this lady wore a gown cf maraxm erepon and a new soft silk sot yet named, but which Is bound to be- FOR CiPZHA CB CONCERTS. ponvs ft rag. Tbe sleerea were of this silt. It la 43 inches wide vA do not to m pied for a fashionable pair of sleeves. The sfcirt had a fioxrnoe 12 Inches deep of this silk, headed by a band of lace Inser tion. Tbe draped belt, collar and all the rosettes were also of this soft sfit. It was maize color, frosted with white. The drapery across the waist was of thick rib bed maize crape. There waa a bunch. cf dairies afflxed to the corsapce. The young lady's name is Daisy. Another pretty pown was of pale apple green talle draped over a rcw leaf pink silk Up. The dress of irtnr was ' princess shape. The talle owrMrew vnq practically shapeless and was slmpfy drawn in folds across tbe waist an3 left to fall loosely orer the arm. The skirt was gathered and hemmed, and there was a silver belt that covered the gather. One cr two bit of velvet riblx.n bows of a moss olive were set about, but It was very simple altogether to hove achieved rach a protty effect. In the lobby Is the place to ftndy the evening wrap ana op ra cioak. Ihi3 Kaon they Am rrx all ton?, nr are they all ono !.-. ,.t tv rV" lndv wears what lUt-A nj uu'Ui uoel U the dc4:uan wrap, which U u gunucnt win ro the ImcW UU the iiuure and U laid in fold tlnw the waUt line. The front and side por tions form dolman hanging sloeves and folded frout. The whole Is very graceful and elegant. I saw several In light woolen material, lined with silk. ' One lu particu lar plvAMxl me. The material wa light gray eiderdown cloth. There were three derby capoa over the thoulder, and In front were two flat pocket set on the ouUide, more for ornament than use, I fancy. This dolman mantle wrap 1 quit a favorite for day wear as well as evening and Is tttglnulng to make It appearance In the streets In velvet, moire, ribbed silks and the various woolen good. It la very rich and handsome tn the brocaded wool ens and superb In velvet. The cape can be made In any shape and trimmed with fur. It Is far more dressy than any ooat can possibly be. Vor opera and general even ing wear It would be beautiful In the rib bed silks or thlok light brocade. The short capes are very often seen this season, and very pretty they are. Some are of white cashmere, silk or ribbed white velutina. One made of the latter stuff had a lining of pink satin and a border- all around of white thlbet fur. The cape col lar was also tKtrdered with the fur. A very pretty cape for a young married lady was shirred around the neck, and that portion left below the shirring formed the pointed full collar. The lower part was laid In four plaits, and the shoulders were out dolman shape. The material was white ottoman silk. It was worn over a superb moon light blue moire. Some ladles wear cosy hoods, some wear delicate fleecy fascinators and others half handkerchief of lace, with full ruffle of narrow lace set around the edges. The half handkerchief Is geuerally lined with light floreutlne silk aud has bows of ribbon. The end aro very pretty thrown around the neck. Some ladies wear oriental scarf over their bead, and some do not care to vear anything over their elaborate coif fur. It 1 not obligatory. For the moment you hear scarcely any- L tbng but bell," 'three piece," A piece" and godet skirt. The new sEirt, which i but the perfected outcome of the circular skirt of season before la9t, 19 ev erywhere. It i the worst to make and the mo uncomfortable to wear, especial ly on fa windy day, that has ever been in vented One feels like a bird lu a cage in one, but when one does hang right It is suih a source of pride and satisfac tion that it 1 worth some discomfort. But I wonder that all the dressmakers aro not gray haired before their time over it. To make one of these skirts the owner must bid goodby to economy and shut her eyes to tho wasted pieces of goods. It takes eight yards of 44 Inch material for one of them, and what with the skirts and the sleeves a drese cannot be contrived out of 17 yards of yard wide material unless the person trying has more cf that useful quality called "gumption" tiian I have. I may note here that these tljil:t fitting skirt make poofceta so difficult that the IVtLNLVG WRAPS. pretty and fanciful little chatelaine bags are coming in farce. They are made most often cf the dress material, but often of satin, silk, brocade or velvet. I have seen some made of fur, lined with satin and fastened by ribbons. For evening a pretty fancy 13 to take a square cf light silk, hem it and sew a rnfle of narrow Valen ciennes around. Then run Aribbon around in a circle, leaving the corner free Set eight silken covered ring3 around on this ribbon and run another through that and tie it, so that when It Is drawn the square forms a bag, with loops to hold it by. The loops snould be at least 12 inches long to hang easily over the arm. Some cf the prettier gowns of the season are those cut in princess shnpe. There is a great pleasure to tho artistic eye In fol lowing the graceful lines reaching from throat to feet without a break. The prin cess displays a good figure a no other gown can, and it Is withal so pleasing, whether made plain and short or trimmed lavishly and having an ample train, that it Is no wonder that its advent is hailed with delight. ' If none bnt the bravo de serve the fair, r.oe but tbe fair deserve th rvrincMs or have it. They do not dare. When the princess gown Is made cf sober colors, but rich material, and has Jong chatelaine sleeves and here and there a deft mediaeval touch, the wearer raj be congratulated. The style was almost en tirely out for many seasons, but ii now most decidedly in. One lady recently wore a thick Ivory white neau do scie cut en princesse. Aroui.ti the bottom tTiere were ...v.., deep, and these were filled In by fans f.f. cherry tulle. There was a drapery around the low neck of cherry velvet, and the sleeves were simply fall, deep ruffles cf tulle. The back of the skirt hung in very ample folds from the double bo plaits. Cherry is a favorite color for garniture thla winter and is seen very often in mlllJ neTy and on dresses. A rich maroon velvet gown cut tn prin' ees?e and heavily trimmed with beaded jet vas much admired at a recent swell func tion There was a short cape of this same material. The cape was lined with lvoyy moire, and the wide lapel were faced with white moire and outlined with a very nar row but fine line of jetted trimming. Ma roon is one of the favorite colors of the i- !a njirtleularlr rich In reason, m r -- - . ladies' cloth, erepon and ylf"- also produced in repped velntina for full nThe tailor suits are being made In two pieces a basque, or coat, and skirt, with a vest which shows scarcely at all. The three piece skirt just clearing the ground all around Is more suitable tb an any other. The coats are Prince Alberts anfl cut away jackets. A few very short pilot reef ers cf thick black or blue "f"1" ,een. They are very jaunty TbffTfach very little below the waist line and jsr double brewed, with Tl,c Hawaiian' Gazette Company at all rlri j'f IP- Ladies1 Column. POPULAR APPROVAL Goes far toward establishing tho standing of a business house in any community, and the good-will and patronage we have had during the hist forty years indicate, not only that we have the popular ap pkoval, but that those 'who have dealt with us have been eminently satisfied with their transactions. AVE ATTRACT And retain patronage raoro by tho EXCELLENCE OF QUALITIES Bhown and our reasonable trices than by preposterous claims of eelling goods below cost, otc. AVE REPEAT As wo havo said before that when you pay less for goods than wo ask for them you get an inferior quality. WHILE AVE Carry a stock of dry poods that is complete in every sense, irom tho lowest priced goods to tho most luxurious made, we make a specialty of the highest grade, and exclusive designs of the most recent and accepted styles. IT IS AVorth your while always in making purchases to look at our stock before deciding. If we have what you want you will certainly buy it, if quality and price are any consid eration. THIS AVEEK Ladies' Underwear in con nection with our general stock will receive considerable at tention, it is our intention to make a run of them and as the stock is an over large one, first buyers will have first choice. B. F. EHLEES & 00. g. west, Commission -:- Merchant IMPORTER AND DEALER IK Carriage Materials Of Every rcscription Including OAK, ASH, HICKORY AND WHITE WOOD LUMBER, Spokes, all sizes ; 8avern Wheels, Wood Hub Wheels, Sawed Felloes, Bent Rims from 1 to 2 inches, Dump Cart Shafts, Wagon Poles, Double-trees. Single-trees, Wagon and Cart Hubs, all sizes ; AND A FULL ASSORTMENT 0 Trimmers Materials Carriage Hardware, Norway Iron, and Steel Tires. EJUT Having a long experience in the Carriage Business, I am prepared to sup ply Carriage Euilders, Plantations, etc., with first-class materials, personally selected, at tbe very lowest cash prices. C7"A11 Island orders will receive prompt attention. MASONIC BLOCK, Corner Alakea and Hotel Streets. CgTTelepnone yQ. 3878-tf ?tic Mi'.V F'M f"T infant h, durintr 2T T(r. zrwi n frr with both tctor and mr.thrr throTirfo it the world, and i now un- na ionab! n't only the bt subifu'e Iff mother' tn", bit tne fr which agrrts with kll.ic j-.v-. r - - -- i'ffn?tn and mira ti rit the wakrnin effort fi hft wthr, ard ha avd the livs of 1 V 1 . rrrfl!?. r.f infant It fftfH W thoo SI br f-f irf.n. lo any nvthtr icndift arfflri., ! tr -nti'rrun? tni parr, we will i snJ m.? "-d uccriitH'n t-f Sftie rood. Tlxxt. Leeming" C'o., RoV Af't. Mnrray St., N. T. Th Agency for XJSSTLK'S 3IIL.K FOOD IS WITH THE Holli3tr Dtvz CompaDj, Limited h2i Fort Ptret. Honolnln. f f. T Notice. A ERCflANT WHO flAVK FU re construction of 1 nihel "applies for the Oaha Railway abjct to ray order to Jannary 1st. Hl piean? call at m office and receive thck for Mme. AIpo sul contractors i lee call and receive money dae according to contract. 3W4-3t A. FFEK. L -' Ik THIS 18 RESERVED FOR N. 520 Fort Sti'eet -:- S. The Popular Millinery House. Give the Baby INFANTS SfjNVALl! TffAOI R fc-tTffcA BORA jrMAJtK. -,- J J L. . III l - ML, f BENSON, SMITH & CO., Sole. Ajzeritss; SOMETHING IEW ! TV TV Mexican VERY FINE. Said to ior to HOLLISTER & CO Importera of Tobaocos. Ciaare. Smokers' Vestas, Etc., Kto. Pacific Guano coM::p.A.3srY. G. N. WILCOX.... President. J. F. II A.CKFELD. . . .Vice-President. P. O. BOX 484. OUR NEW WORKS AT KALI HI to furnish ARTIFICIAL : ALSO CONSTANTLY ON HAND vnnftr OiirtTio. PotaHli. Sulnhato of Ammonia, Nitrate of Soda, y?rn Special attention given to analysis of soils by our Agricultural Chenuet. Alljjoods are guaranteed in every respect. ' I X?For further particulars apply to PACIFIC GUANO AND ENTERPRISE PETER BlflH & CO., OFFICK i Alftkea and Richards near MOULDINGS, Sash, Blinds, Screens, Frames, Doors, TURNEU AND CCT Prompt attention to all orders. TBLKPHON KM : MUTUAL 56. SPACE SACHS', Honolulu A Perfect Nutriment rem Growing Children. Convalescents. Consumptives, dyspeptics. and tbe Ace4, and " In Araie lllae sod all Waatia Diseases. THE Best Food for Hand-fed Infants. OlT It BOOH, for the Instruction of mothers, "The Care m.md Fred lnof Infants," will be maUedree to iiy address, upon request. DOUBER-GOODALE CO BOSTON, MASS.. U. 8. A. s. fenr tli Hawaiian Islands. ? Giffars be Super Havanas ! TRY THEM. Articles, Wax and Fertilizer T. MAY .... Auditor.- E. 8UHR. . . .Secretary and Treasurer. MUTUAL TEL. 407. being completed, all kinds of we are now ready FERTILIZERS 1 Oaloined Fertilizer Salts VTH ETC.. ETC3 -o FERTILIZER COMPANY DK. W, AVEBDAM. Maniger. PLANING MILL Proprietors. ANU MILL! Queen Street, Honolultu D. i Etc. SAWED WUKK. CT BELL 4Pfi. JUST mm J. T. Waterlionsa Wo. 10 tore ladies' axtd geitt's BATHING SUITS ! Ladies' tnd Children's ClooJqs and Jackets, Children' Xlnaxore.: - Sili, Sfcetkl d Wed KID GLOVES, CHAMOIS GIX)VE3, LADIES' AHD CHILDBEyfi Hals and Bounels ! TBUfMED AUD UOTBJUUED, Dress Goods in great variety, Rainbow and Embroidered Crape, Feathers and Flowers New Curtain Materials, Silk and Velvet Kibbons, Leather and SilverBelto, Novelties in KucMir Chiffon Handkerchiefs caN Ties, LACS AHD EIIEILOnZILD FL0MC1IGS ! S523 The Latest by the II China!" Silk Goods, Silk Skirts, Silk Underwear, Straw Hats, Cotton Crape, Also a fine assortment of Of every description. X?The finest Japanese Goods in town. K. FURUYA, Rcbicsoa Block, Hotel Stat Something New. I have just returned from th Coast atx! have opened up complete etock ef Groceries. Everythinfr and anything from pnjrAi" to the rhoiceat of Ittmce. VI v motto tb give VALUE FOR VALUE. Evervthin new and frtsh. Cctne and pet fny prices and bejecn vinced. 3. H. C5U Cash GixXer. Hotel and Union tte , opjv AYnngton Hotel. 3TOffl JAPANESE -:- GOODS Cl