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THE PACIFIC COMMERCIAL. AUVETITISER: HONOLULU, FEBRUARY
7, 1S95. NEW YORK FASHIONS. DAINTY MATERIALS FOR SUMMER VEAR NOW BEING SELECTED. Natural Colored Ioiie Will Artln lie I'opular Tlic Now CI iamb raj, rerralea, lilmltie, Chintze and Ijiwm IecrllMMl. I!anl.ome Kvenlng (uwn. fConyriht. lv'O. ly Ar;;Ticin Pr Aioeia tioii. J Tim of natural colorcl ponpreo lias ri'no again, and there is n quantify of it to fio wen everywhere. TJio most of it is plain, and we nil know what a useful find durable filk it i and how admirably it takes all kinds of trimming. This reason it is shown almost covered with pierced rm broidery, tho old fashioned patterns riono in white IIos. Tho designs arc all wrought out by the eyelet holes, and that pives the. wholo the appearance of light- KL'LL EVENING DKESSES. nefis which makes this poneo such a keen delight among the possibilities of summer gowns. We all know that pongee- is of a soft natural woody drab, or perhaps pray would xnoro accurately deflno the color, and when it is worked in the pretty pierced patterns and eome bripht color is ihown beneath it well, tho effect Is too lovely for comparison. Following In tho wake of tho embroid ered pongees, wo find a lot of exquisite cham brays, pint, blue, lilac and malze.and of delicate Scotch ginghams also embroid ered in the pierced and openwork pat terns. These will bo made up with per fectly plain skirts, gathered full at the waist, and they will not be lined. The white of tho undergarment will show through, giving a lightness and cool effect that will please the most exacting. There will be yoked and bebo waists and lots of ribbon to match tho color. Some of the t-ham brays have the bottoms of the skirts only embroidered, and this Is done In deep vandyko points to simulate lace. This is another stylo of embroidery and Is ralsod, not cut out. Then there are lovely Swisses where there la an all over pattern of intri cate wheels with a deep fancy design at tho bottom. Swiss muslin Is always pret ty, and It looks so cool and crisp and clean. X think nothing makes such dainty summer gowns for young girls as swiss. Among the dainty material for summer wear Is n large variety of percales, dimi ties, both plain and printed; chintzes and simple lawns, linen lawns, fayal linens and cotton challies. These last aro dead flue and soft, not the coarse thread of last season, and the patterns are exquisitely artistic as well as the colorings. The prices fpr all these summer goods, except tho embroidered ones, are marvelously low. Silk muslin and chiffon are now offered Id all the new colors, some of them quite dork and even black. Magenta Is tho groundwork of many of these fragile tis sues. Blue of a certain pale shade is often combined with the darkest blue for tho ruffles, ties or draperies to tho waists, which have apparently doubled .their pop ularity. Some of the waists are of taffeta or other silk, with the inner sleeves of silk and tho outer ones of tho chiffon end with enormous full tics fastened in front. These tics are generally made of 14 yards of chiffon or silk muslin, gathered through tho middle and drawn up so that tho whole falls in one loose but graceful bunch. Tho silk muslin has a woven bor der about an inch wide, and this, as tho goods falls in natural folus gives a very rich effect. Tho crepo lisso nnd flno mull ties ar made long with narrow hemmed scallops. on tho edge of which 13 overhanded a row of Valenciennes generally about an inch wide. This is but slightly fullod. Tho length of these ties 13 1 yards long by one-quarter wide, with n fall of mull eix inches deep fulled on tho ends. The wholo is then tied up into a closo double bow. Some havo tho end3 longer. These aro very pretty. It Is not difficult for a lady to make her own ties, and they cost much less. I have seen a number of them made of dotted and Fpanglcd net of differ ent colors, somo of them having metallic fringe. I forgot to mention the pointed jaconets tho first ever made. Tho colors are fast and tho patterns exquisite. Tho whole SEW EST TIES AND SLEEVES. ppearanca Is that of 6oft India silk, and they are better than silk because washable and more durable. The printed lawns and organdies show something new and more beautiful every week. There is also a new wteen called 6atln faconne. It Is not as thick as sateen, but is quite as rich and more glossy. There is a sort of basket weave in cotton which gives a check just the size of one thread. It is very quiet and elegant, and I believe will be popular for inornng wear. The Scotch zephyrs are coming in slowly, but few being shown at ence, and thes.i of such different weaves r.d patterns that it is not possible to say much alie.utthcin. only that theyorequite as delicate and attractive as they wero last season. There is a new feathery looking cotton tailed pluinetl.s very pretty, but odd; drap - aisacc, another curir,;;s stuff as near like waiting cloth us one can imagine; a two wned nblxl cotton called plis.se, nnd cot ton brocade, t')0 filire outliruHl or wr .UJS w,th All of these are on t ntI are ,ouht this sea-.-tween now Ijl m M W ri... " , . ia ine country. wealthiest far.iille.. do not fivo out their w-h dresses to La in:do, and with the cs sistanco of their maids or a soamstrcs em ployed by tho day make them at home. Very few first cJ.is-4 modistes will make cotton dre:W-s. There is no chance to make extra money for findings and trim mings. So theno gowns occupy tho timo and attention of tho ladies during tho pparo moments until the timo comes to wear them. When each gown is finished. It should be, and generally Is, wrapped in iof t paprr and picked away In large paste board boxes until summer. In tho moan time the ladles go on buying their 6prlng woolen gowns and their new ball dresses. Tho two handsomest evening gowns that I have seen within a month, except those intended for young girls, were two that were designed abroad for two young married ladies 6istcrs. One had a Bklrt of twilled Ellk In two tones; ono malzo and the other russet green. It was very full around the bottom. Tho waist was of magenta velvet drawn up in front to sim ulate a draped flgaro. There was a lace vest with a white velvet girdle, pointed and embroidered with gold. There was a flat gold embroidered white velvet collar, and across the bust a band of gold galloon with gilt beads, ended on each side by a triple bow of magenta velvet. Long loops of the same fell to the very bottom of tho skirt In front. The sleeves were left open to show lace under sleoves which ended at the elbow. The other gown was of npplo gTeen vel vet with a long, full train. The front cf the skirt was of plaited crepe de chine, em broidered in gold along tho bottom. The waist was altogether of puffed china crape, and so were the sleeves, with an effective arrangement of laco and gilt ornaments in front. On the left shoulder there was a bunch of gorgeous tulips. Tho back of the waist w:i pointed and trimmed with tho lace, which did not lap down, but wrs laid up to the top of tho shoulder. The sleeves, I think, as a general tiling, are not quite as lnrue as they have been, but still ono doe Hod occasionally one larger than before. Yet I think tho tend ency is rather toward sninlit-r sleeves. I noted ono elegant new w?iii.e ml suit, and thoso sleeves were certainly much smaller than usual. The form was 11 drojM-d gigot with a wrinkled r:x-.n. Another ttyle was a sleeve to a 15 ht diap.n.-tl l.eviot. There was a short forearm piece made of brown plush, scarcely more than a cuff. This was bordered with a narrow band of lynx fur. Tho upper part of the sleeve was gathered bishop fashion, top and bot tom. Tills was pretty large, but not quite as full as heretofore. A sleeve to a ball gown of white and cherry striped gauze was gathered in ono puff to tho elbow. Tho upper part was shirred up slightly, just enough to break the straight lines. This, though still quite large enough to call for masculine condemnation, is much smaller than I have seen, go from these enormities We could not r tho sleeve cf HAKDSOMU SEW GOWX8. other days without a certain amount of gradation, but in the language of the poet we will get there just the same someday. Thero was a very handsome Imported model gown Intended for home wear. It was of a rich, warm brown cloth and bad a not overfull skirt made walking length Thero wero two bands of black velvet upon tho seams at the front of tho skirt Thero was a basque waist, with a full plaited polka whoso two front ends hung In deep points ending in gilt ornaments. At the waist was a girdle of velvet and a pelerino capo over the shoulders, and over this wo9 a folded bretello of brown surah. This was laid in four flat bias folds. The Eleeves were almost scanty In comparison with many others. Sido by side with that was a blouse waist made of ruby plush The sleeves were large and draped up in a manner to get tho most material in them ossible. On tho loft breast was a gilt and teel butterfly, quite a remarkable orna ont altogether. This blouse was worn over a periorated stirs or pongee, with a ruby silk one beneath through which tho rich color showed with pleasing effect. Among the handsomest new goods of fered for spring costumes I find several now varieties of illuminated suitings, nearly all of them in the loveliest colors posslblo to combine. There is a neWEcrgo in black and navy bluo with a crape weave. In black there is a black imperial 6urah sorgo and several new weaves in bright swivel and granite cloths. Tho Eilk warp benri ettas are also shown both plain and woven in tiny figures. The light cheviots make the prettiest and most satisfactory gowns for spring, and they can be worn fax Into the sum mer. They are grays, drabs and fawns, with admixtures of garnet, red, blue, green, black and yellow, sometimes only ono and sometimes all these other colors, but so cleverly is tho mingling of threads accomplished that one sees but the surface color. They do not come under the head of heather mixture, which is quite another thing and not less pleasing. In my visits to tho different places dur ing the past week I havo noticed that cluny and torcaon laces aro without doubt the favorites for nearly all kinds of trimming on such garments as are to be washed. There is a new lacelike muslin bordering called Russian laco, which re tembles the real honlton point closely. This will be suitable for the muslin dresses. Next to that will bo a new imita tion of brussels point. I think the lighter laces will bo generally preferred this sea son, though some point do venlse in the form of yokes, collars and vandyke points will bo seen as trimming. The Imitation brussels point is a very clever imitation, requiring almost an expert to tell the dif ference. For ordinary dressmaking pur poses I do not see why tho machine mado lace is not as valuable as the handmade. Laco is made for the adornment of a gar ment and not of the person, liko jewels, but real lace is a satisfaction worth having, after alL Mate Lekot. The Pulslmeter. The pulsiraeter, a recent Invention, Is a watch made especially for doctors to timo pulses with. It is mado very much on tho principle of tho stop watch and indicates tho rato on a pulse dial in so many beats per minuto Th Hawaiian Gazette Company manufacture rnlter MHmn of all mmm it Ladies' Column. A GOOD NIGUT'S REST is only to be obtained in a bed covered by one of onr QUILTS. QUILTS. QUILTS. EVrN then you can not be entire ly happy unless sheltered from the terrors of the night mosqnitos. Yon can't shoot them, and yon can't catch them; eo the best plan is to let them FEET THEMSELVES TO DEATH in a vain endeavor to get at you through one of our 90-INCH WIDE and 10 YARDS long MOSQUITO NETS, MOSQUITO NETS, MOSQUITO NETS. If there is any Linse in town that has a nice line of SCOTCH GINGHAMS, SCOTCH GINGHAMS, SCOTCH GINGHAMS, we most assuredly claim to be that house. We have them: they are per fect beauties. A look is all that is needed to get you to buy them. CHEAP CALICOS, CHEAP CALICOS, CHEAP CALICOS. Is another thing that we expect to sell a large quantity of during this week. We must and will. ET SLOWLY, but certainly SURELY, the people are findiog out that when it gets to Prices and Qualities, we are leading all. B. F. EHLEKS & CO. SOMETTE ! t4?rhe best Corset in the world for the money. "Corne and IiOOK AT THEI, TAKE THE3I HOME, TRY THEM OjST ! And return them if they don't suit you. These Corsets are made in style to fit and suit every body and their purses. They are in forty-seven dif ferent styles and range in price from $1 to $5 per pair. Ask to see tho Extra Long Waist Sonnette for S2.25. They can't be beaten. If you can't get Corsets long enough, remember you can get the "Sonnette" with six HOOKS. Should you want a Corset Wltn REAL WHALE liUWJC, geb the "Sonnettb." Anyway come in and see them. J. J. Sole Agent for Hawaiian Islands. 38lMf HDSTACB & CO.. Dealers in WOOD AND COAL Also White and Black 8and which we tll sell at the very lowest market rates. fX7Bsu. TaisFHONa No. 414. EGAS JOHN KOTT, IMPORTER AyD DEALER IN . " - IT I A ''- 'l.l I 1 i mi i 1 Iron Ranges 8TOVE9 AND FIXTURES, House Keeping Goods AND Kitclien Utensils, AGATE WARE, RUBBER BOSE TUMPS, ETC., ETC., Plumbing, Tin, Copper AND Sheet Iron Work. D1M0ND -:- BLOCK KING STREET. G. WEST, Commission -:- t IMPORTER AND DEALER IK Car ri a ge Materials Ot Every Tescription Including OAK, ASH, H(CKORY AND WHITE WOOD LUMBER, Spofees, all sires; Savern Wheels, Wood Hub Wheels, Sawed Felloes, Rent Rims from 1 to inches, Dump Cart Stinfts, Wagon Poles, Double-trees, 8inKle-trei8, Wagon and Cart Hubs, all sizes ; AND A PULL ASSORTMENT OF Trimmers' Materials ' I -Carriage Hardware, Norway Iron, and Steel Tires. C7Having a lonz experience in the Carriage Business, I am prepared to sup ply Carriage Builders, Plantations, etc., with first-class materials, personally selected, at tne very lowest cash prices. fiSr All Island orders will receive prompt attention. MASONIC BLOCK, Corner Alaken and Hotel Streets. iDTelephone No. 350. 3878-tf Japanese Goods, 811k Dress Goods, Cotton Dress Goods, Gent's Silk Shirts, Gent's Cotton Shirts, Gent's Fancy Crepe Shirts. Straw and Kelt Hats. Umbrellas and Parasols, Fancy Screens, Hosiery, rf andkerchlef and Neckties, For both ladies and gentlemen. Watch our advertisement for new goods arriving by every steamer. IWAKAMI, HOTEL STREET. Next to Peck's Commission Rooms 3902-tf ,! N-nld's Milk r.-rvr1 ...r infant has, during 25 jlycr.r. grown in lavor with both doctors and j m.i.iTs tiir.u;hoiiC tne workl, and is now un p r;u-iunabiy n .t o.-!v the t st suhtitufc for ii' mother' l-iil'i. t .it the- 1'kI which agrees with ti the l.ir-,t j.. . -nrau cf infants. It gives :i s".rer.: t . ul st .-.in. a to resist '.he wea'pccn:n N r:V. ts of t v- :-.t ;.i - a:il h.ts snvfd the livrs of ti tl:us.i.-i.is i ii.ir:-;. To any m. : h-r ser.oin;; ij i luT a.kli'-.s. :Ti.nr;i .ni'i this I;r. ve vci'i ;. : ,'end sa:iif,cs .1: .J i!f-vrvll"l cf Xctiij's lurx!. 'I ;; Thos. Lot-mii A Co.. So..- Arr"t. 2-J Murray X. V. j: Stee and Merchan PI The Agency for XESTLE'S MILK FOOD 18 WITH ins Hollister Drug Company, Limited 523 Fort Street, Honolulu, 11. I. WE'VE The Right Goods, Right Right jTEW SPRING Printed Irish Lawns in new designs; New Dimities in figured and solid colas ; Plain and Satin Striped Cotton Crapea ia delicate shades and fancy figured. COTTON DUCK ! COTTON DUCK ! ! In Bolid colore, stripes and polka dots. Ginghams, Ginphams, Ginghams; an immense variety in stripes and plaids ; New Percalep, New Prints, New Muslins; Latest designs in Flannelettes. IMJN'T KAIL. TOr8EK TDK New Golden Draperies N. 520 Fort Street s WRINKLED BEAUTIES SHOULD Use I ola Montez Cbeme. Skin Food and Tissue Builder. Does not cover, but heals and cures blemishes of the skin. Makes the tissues firm and builds up the worn-out muscle fibers, and makes them plump. Lowest in price and best in value. 75 cents large pot. iS'tx m'l v nAKRiBOH b oi t recKies, uiacitneaaa, jp leen worms, Sunburn, Sallownees, and Aloib Patches. Quick in action and permanent in effects. Price $1. Mrs. Harbison's Face Powder. Pure adhesive aDd positively invisible. Three shades white, flesh, biunetle. "Will not clog the pores, stays on all day. Price 50 cents. Mb8. Harrison's Hair Vigor. Stops Falling Hair in one or two applications. Prevents Gray Hair and causes rich and luxuriant growth of Hair to grow on bald heads. Cases of years standing specially invited to a trial. Price $1. Mrs. Harrison's Hair He&torer. Only four to ten days required to restore hair to its natural color Is nut a dye cr bleach. No sediment or stickiness. Color is permanent when once y our hair is restored to its natEral shade. Hair becomes glossy and clean. Price $1. Mrs. Harriscn'8 Frizz. For keeping the hair in curls a week at a time; not sticky ; don't leave a white deposit on the hair. Price 50 cents. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON, America's Beauty Doctor. 26 Geary Street, San Franclnco, Cal". CCT-For pale by HOLL1KTER DRFG COMPANY, 523 Fort Street, Honolulu. j"Any ltdy call at HolliMer Drug Company will be given a Lady's Journal containing a Beauty Lecture wiitt n by Mrs. Nettie Harrison. Eoyal Insurance Co., OF LIVEKPOOL. THE LARGKST IN THE WOKLD." Assets January 1st. 1892, f 42,432,1 74.00 SSSr-Fire risRs on ah mna of Insurable property raKen at Current rate by 8140-lm Commission Merchant, Wholesale and Betail Silk Goods, Cotton Crepes, Underwear, Towels, Hats and Caps ; Fine S Jne oi Japanese Metal consfctin? of Match Safes, Ash Trays, Card Cases, Soap Boxes, Decorated Japanese Hand Bags, etc. Just received bv China and Bentala from Japan, Provisions, Matting, Toilet Soap, Cotton and Silk Goods, etc. Samples of all kinds of Japanese Goods which I can import on hort notice. i'ry cur if. T. TEAS. Prices Qive the Baby "FOR AND 1NFANTS&1NVAL1DS. TRl D e"TS5 R Ai'tCl. A BOffvfir' MARK. fMWW BENSON, SMITH & CO., Stole Asenta ENTERPRISE PLANING MILL PETER HIGH & CO., OFF C EtcLarUa Alaoa and iear MOU Doors. Sash, Blinds. TURNED AND S7"'Ivronipt attention to all orders. T K L E P U MUTUAL R5. Daily Advertiser, 75 GOT THEM! Prices, Shades at the Right Time. NOVELTIES IN -:- Honolulu XACE xsleach. ijures most aggravated cases WALKER, Agent for Hawaiian Islands . TAKEMURA 405 KING STKEBT, the lowest. A Perfect Nutriment ron growing Children, convalescents. Consumptives, dyspeptics, and the Aerii, and in Acute Illnrs and all Wudtiuff IiiicuAes. THE Best Food for Hand-fed Infants. OTJR nOOK for the Instruction of mothers, "The Cam and Feed. ina of In Cant, "will be mailedre to any address, upon request. O OOLIBER-GOOOALE COm BOSTON, MASS., U- S. A. tor trie Hawaiian Inlands. Proprietors. Qaeea Street. Ronololn. H i I) L X G S , Screens, Frames, SAWED WOKK Etc. 1C gysr p.ki.i Cents per Month n Til si mpt i dfOTHiti'TH.