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THE PACIFIC COMTEK CIAL ADVERTISER: HONOLULU, 3IARCH 25, 1895.
5 EMBROIDERY TALK. THE PIANIST'S FINGERS. THE MOST IMPORTANT ETCHING OUTLINE STITCHES. OR Tho Fundamental or Keonlnetou Stitch, Which Appears on .So Many Embroidered Pieces The Useful Stem, Chain Rope, Feather and Blanket Stitches Described. Tho most important outline stitch and tho ono mast generally in vouQ at present is known as the "Kensington ontline." This is a fundamental stitch and is to to found somewhere in some form in nearly every piece of embroid ery It is nearly a reverse back stitch and consists cf a long tstitch forward on the face of the material and a short stitch back on the underside. Tho work sbcnld be held as straight as possible in the left band, not over tho forefinger, as this makes the stitches fall and looping. Tho lino is carried from left to right STEM KENSINGTON CTI AIX. and tho needlo put in from right to left, whilo tho thread should Cow back, al lowing tho stitch to bo taken in front of it This work is most satisfactory on pieces intended for constant service tablo cover?, scarfs and inen?, which are often to bo washed. Tho "stem stitch" differs from tho regular outline in that while it is essentially tho samo long stitch ou tho faco and short one on tho back it is taken a Jittlo differently. Tho thread is kept from in front of tho needle, and its point is brought out just below whero tho last stitch left tho ma terial. This makes a little rido line, which has a very pretty twist. This is dono in a frame, as is also the outlining dono with a thread which you constant ly twis t as you wcrk. . Tho chain stitch has a very conven tional and machineliko effect, but such an effect is sometimes desired. Tho needlo should bo brought np from tho wrong side of tho material, tho thread thrown round from left to right and held down with the thumb. The needlo is worked-as far from tho first point as length of stitch required. Draw this stitch through, letting tho thread held How to I'roperly Strengthen Them and Cain t:s pannlreness In the IIanh. A writer in tho London Lancet g:v not long ago a detailed account cf gymnastic training for tho strengthen ing of tho Angora, his theory being that tho weakness of tho ring or third finger is not a mechanical defect to begin with, but a physiological one that is to say, that it is not duo to tho connec tion of tho extensor tendon with that of the little finger, and sometimes also middle finger, but to want of develop ment of the muscles acting upon tho ring finger through want of nso in early life, so that it thu3 falls a long way be hind tho other fingers not excepting tho littlo finger, in strength. Tho editor cf Tho Etude, in criti cism of tho foregoing, says: Every devico which works from tho outside inward i3 of more than questionable worth. No exorcise should bo worked at long enough to produce much if any fatigne, for when carried to tho point whero tho members acho it may bo taken as a sign from nature that harm is being done, a warning to desist until, tho parts can re cuperate by a rest moro or less protract ed. A far better form of strengthening tho weak fingers is to practico tho Ma son two finger exercise, that demands an accent on tho second tono of tho motive with a snapped under finger, tho quick snap furnishing exactly tho cxerciso nec essary to develop strength, and with tho increasing strength will como on, a3 much to bo desired, improved flexi bility. ' For gaining a wider expansion noth ing is so good as playing tho arpeggio of tho Diminished Seventh for one oc tave, holding each key down as long as possible until tho finger is wanted to strike it3 key again, playing both up and down. It greatly increases tho valuo of this cxerciso to change the notes as given in tho XV changes by Mason in tho volumo devoted to arpeggio playing, volume C. A very littlo gain of expan sivcucs3 in tho hand largely increases tho easo with which chords and octaves can bo clearly played. It is like a fan. Tho fraction of movement nt tho joint is multiplied at tho extremity. What ever the hand gains from tho cxerciso of it3 own muscles by direct act of it3 inner nerves, muscles and tendons is a gain of valne, -but when outsido appli ances nro used tho hand is as liablo to get harm as permanent good from their usa Dreeing a Flowerpot. Here is a new wrinklo in decorations from American Gardening: To mako a flowerpot presentable for tho tablo or drawing room stand, mako for it a petticoat of plain silk, of the color of tho blossom of tho plant or in leaf green. Tho 6ilk should be half a yard in length for a smallish pot long enough to allow for both cut edges to be turned back an inch and a half to form a raffle or frill, and wido enough to be tastefully full. When the shirs at both top and bottom aro drawn around tho pot, to form a puff, usually two widths of silk not overwido are required If a rubber cord is used for tho drawstrings, tho "puff" adjusts itself smoothly and sungly to tho pot. The frill at both tcp and bottom can bo madowidoor narrow to suit the taste of the maker. Of course the toilet of the plant, trimmed and wa tered, should bo made before tho silk cover is put on. Ladies' Column. LOOK I3EFOBE YOU LEAP. "When yon go out shopping', consider; think of the money in your pocket, and take account of the many stores whose various attractions are laid before yon. I here is A. with temptations id the form of a pretty show; there is Y, whose wiles are innumerable; and Z, who says be is the man for your money. PLEASE PAUSE ! And remember your pocket is con cerned. STOP AND THINK ! Would it not be well to go where for forty years HONEST GOODS and HONEST PRICES go band in band. Beauty and durability, instead of mere 6bow and display, is the virtue of good3 bandied by us. To sell at a small Profit in every Department is the fundamental law of oub bouse; to carry the best and newest goods the markets of the world afford is our constant aim. Among the many new things found on our counters this week, we wish to call your especial attention to what is generally known as TABLE FELT, TABLE FELT, TABLE FELT, thoueb it is continually used for fancv work. "We have an extra fine line of this cloth in all colors. EIDERDOWN, EIDERDOWN, EIDERDOWN. To look at it is to buy it, solt as velvet, just the thing for Capes or Children's Jackets. Wre have it in blue, pink, and cream. You will want it in all these colors after once looking at it. - ' - mm IMPORTER AND DEALER IN V:p43stJ PB 31-? SPECIALLY ROR cSy jf Sin: I and Iran Ranges STOVKS ASlt riXTUKES, House Keeping Goods AND Kitelion Utensils, AGATE WARE, RUBBER HOSE PUMTS, ETC., ETC., Plumbing, Tin, Copper WRINKLED BEAUTIES SHOULD Ueo Lola Moktez Cekmk. Skin Food and Tissue Builder. Does not cover, but heals and cares blemishes of the Ekin. Makes the tissues firm and builds np the worn-oat muscle fibers, and makes them plump. Lowest in price and best in value. 75 cents lasgk pot. V ft . . r w . 4jr,',y -rl'St jliks. iiARiusoN's r Acs BLEACH, uarea moss apRravawa cases iiimZ f of Freckles. Blackhead. Flesh Worms. Sunburn. Pallownepa. and Moib Patches. Quick in action and permanent in effects. Pkice SI. Mas. Harbison's Face Powder. Pure adhesive and positivelv invisible. Three shades white, flesh, biunette. Will not closr the tmtgs. Ktavs on all dav. Pkice 50 CENTS. Mrs Harrison's Hair Vigor. Stops Falline Hair in one or two applications. Prevents Gray Hair and causes rich and luxuriant crowth of Hair to crow on bald beads. Cases of ears 6taniine 6P'riallv invited to a trial. Price il. Mrs. Harrison's Hair Restorer. Onlv four to ten dava reouired to restore hair to its- natural color Is nt a -dye or bleach. No sediment or stickiness. Color is permanent when once your bair is restored to its natcral shade. Hair becomes glossy and clean. Price $1. Mks. Harrison's Frizz. For keepine the bair in curls a week at a time : not slicky ; don't leave a white deposit on the hair. Price 50 cents. SIRS NETTIE BARR7SON, America's Beauty Doctor. 20 Geary Street, San Franclnco. Cal. 7Tor Fale by HOLLISTER DRT?G COMPANY, 523 Fort Street, Honolulu. &JZF Any lady call at HolliMer Drue Compsny will be riven a Lady's Journal containing a Eeauty Lecture wiitttn by Mrs. Nettie Harrison. AND Sheet Iron Work. D1M0ND BLOCK B. F. EHLERS & CO. BLANKET ROTE FHATUEIL down form a loop under the point of tho needle. The next stitch is taken in the samo way on tho outline, commencing from within tho end of tho last loop. Tho "rope Etitch" is commenced liko tho simplo chain, but for the successivo fctitches tho needle is sent down on tho outlino behind tho last loop stitch and brought up fo as to mako the loop as before. This stitch makes a very pretty corded lino when worked on worsteds or ropo silk. Tho "feather stitch" is a pretty lit tle finish and may bo Riven among tho chains, a3 the needle and thread are held in tho samo way. Any number of stitch es may bo taken ou a sido or only oao alternately. Tho "blanket stitch" Is a wido apart buttonhole As it is usually dono on soft materials with worsteds, it is better to reverse tho needle, as the point is like ly to split tho thread. Art Amateur. Braiding on Coats and Costumes. The assurance is given that braiding is to bo a feature on both costumes and coats this epring. Tho military coat, with high collar and braided front, will bo a favorite. This coat will alone re main single breasted, double breasted fronts, fastened with large, fancy but tons, being the vogue for all other coats. The coat skirts aro to bo very short, only tlx or eight inches deep, plain in front. Caring on the hips and so full at tho tack as to bo almost accordion plaited, .showing tho gay silk lining. Nopociets will be visiblo. Tho collar may be a matter of choice, both the rolling collar and the open, notched design being shown in tho new models. Xjm" Koch and Collar. it is safo to wager avast amount that there exists not a lady's wardrobe in tho wholo United States that is not enrich' ed by a laco frippery or two. Fashion insists upon tho addition of laco and chiffon to every bouse costume; conse quently ono sees all sorts of delightful contrivances for decorating tho neck. Tho collar, the fichu, tho ruflle, aro all to bo found under tho most delightful aspects. Thcro aro indeed dainty trifles, over which the heart of tho maiden ro- - Vl. A. t ..- Useless Scarfs Condemned. Tho Decorator and Furnisher says: There is no sense in buying a handsome table and then biding it under a cloth. Let a pretty piece of wood be seen and Etudied. If an ornament is placed on it, use a small mat to protect tho table. There are too many useless 6ilk and laco ecarfs about. If a tablo is ugly, if it has a stone or marble top and a good base, by all means use a cloth, and tho hand somer tho texture tho better, but don't insult the artist and cabinet maker by putting a sa6h with a ball fringe across tho polished wood Very Good Glnrrtread. Very good gingerbread: Mix a cup of Now Orleans molasses, 1 of sour cream, 2 of flour, half a cup of sugar, 2 eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda and 1 of cream of tartar, 2 tablespoon ful9 or moro of gTnger If you havo no sour cream, use half a cup of lard or beef drippings and butter mixed and half a cupful of 6weet milk and baking powder instead cf soda. Tb Daily Advertiser 15 cents a month. A NEW LACE COLLAIL joices infinitely, and, by tho way, the maiden who is unfortunately tho vic tim of a bony neck may bo cordially ad vised to adopt one of the new chiffon ruches to Lo worn with evening dress It absorbs a vast amout of chiffon, and can bo had in pink or blue or wbito or black or indeed any color. Occa sionally the soft chiffon is interspersed with rosettes of colored velvet, and then again they aro to bo found quite simple und decorated at the back wich a bow. Tho new laco collar, with full shoul ders, is not only useful in transforming u low bodico into a high one, but in making dressy the plainest of waists. bigh Ilonaekeeplnz Itrevltles. No' breakfast at thia season is com plete without soino kind of griddle rakes. Thero is a fad for Chinco dishes among them rice, citron and raisins boiled together. It will be well to boil tho molasses to be used for gingerbread, or at least heat it very hot, beforo leafing up tho cake, and it will by greatly improved. Before layir.jr a carp. -J wash tho floor with tr.ip:ntiro in j.rev nt buffalo bugs. One cf the .'a-tvontM.Mic conundrums i.s why bcckv.'iii::t caks :;nd .:nsagcs - togvtii-.-r. Hrac tno knifo l:.t-: cutting warm J brcd or e:Iic. Brighten tlnwuiv x.'.:i :i damp cloth ami soda. In a ut.rta room yellow bhades aro in dispensable. They impart an effect of glowing sunshine that is as cheerful if not as warming as tho real article. j The Hawaiian Gazette is issued on Tuesdays and Fridays. SOENETTE ! "The best Corset in the world for the money. tPCorao and IiOOK AT THEM, take them: HOME, TRY THEM 0N I And return them if they don't suit you. These Corsets are made in style to fit and suit every body and their purses. They are in forty-seven dif ferent styles and range in price from $1 to $5 per pair. Ask to see the Extra Long Waist Sonnette for $2.25. They can't be beaten. If you can't get Corsets long enough, remember you can get the "Sonnette" with six hooks. Should you want a Corset Wich HEAL WHALE BONE, get the "Sonnette." Anyway come in and see them. KING STREET. G. WEST, Commission -Merchant IMrOKTEK AND DEALER IN Carri a ge Materi als Of Every l?e6cription Including OAK, ASH, HICKORY AND WHITE WOOD LUMBER, Spokes, all sizes ; Savern Wheels, Wood Hub Wheels, Sawed Felloes, Bent Rims from 1 to J inches, Dump Uart Shafts, Wagon Poles, Double-trees, Bingle-trees, Wagon and Cart Hubs, all sizes ; - AND A FULL AESORTJIENT OF Trimmers' Materials Carriage Hardware, Norway Iron, and Steel Tires. (TyTTTlfi-viua Allans? experience in the rCarriee unainesaLam prepared to sup ply Carriage Builders, Plantations, etc.. with first class materials, personally selected, at the very lowest cash prices All Island orders will receive prompt attention. Give theBaby TV INFANTS imiia lino LEfOTD A Perfect Nutriment - for Growing children convalescents. consumptives, Dyspeptics. and tho A red, and In Acute Illnens and all Wastln Diseases. THE Best Food for Hand-fed infants. Orit BOOK for the Instrnctfon of mothers, "The Care and FeeU In of Infants," will be m&UedY to any address, upon request. O DOLIBER-GOODALE CO BOSTON, MASS.. U.S.A. BENSON, SMITH & CO., Bole Asents for trio Hawaiian Island. H. E. McINTYRE & BRO., 1 EAST CORNER FORT AND KING STREETS liirORTKItS ANp D13AI.ERS 15? Groceries, Provisions and Feed. New and Fresh Goods received by every packet from California, Eastern States. and Euroi ean Markets. Standard grades of canned Vegetables, Fruits and Fieh. Goods delivered to any part of the city. Satisfaction guaranteed. Island trade solicited. - MASONIC BLOCK, Corner Alahea and Hotel Streets. CryTelephone No. 350. 3S7S-tf P. O BOX 145. TELEPHONE NO. 92. Japanese Goods. ml Insurance' Co., Eos 8ilk Dreii Ciod, Cotton I) reus Good. Gent's Mlk Shirts, dent's Cotton Shirts, Gent's Fancy Crepe Shirts. Straw and Felt Ilats, Umbrellas and Tarasols, Fancy Screens, Hosiery, Handkerchief and "Neckties, For both ladies and jrentlemen. OF LIVKUPOOL. "THE LARGKST IN THE WOKLrD." Assete JaDiiary 1st, 1892, 142,432,1700 tSTFize rin&! od all ainan of insurable property lafeen at Current rate by ,1 8140lzn WALKER, Agent for Hawaiian Islands. SJLf Watch our advertisement for new goods arriving by every steamer. HOTEL STRE1CT. Uext to Peck' Commission Kooms SQ02-tf ENTEEPRISE PETER HIGH & Alakea and C(L OFFICE Richards PLANING MILL Proprietors. A2NTr MILL. : near Queen Street, Honolulu, n. L J. J. MAN. Sole Agent for Islands. 3Slfl-tf Hawaiian HTJSTACE & CO., DXXLSE8 rx WOOD AND COAL Also White and Black Sand which we vlll Bell at the very lowest market rates. 27" Bill Tvlbfhovb No. 414. 5"Mc?U4i. TxLaniox) No. 414, 3493-ly NV5tIs Milk Food for infants has. during 25 years, grown in favor with both doctors and mothers throughout the world, and is row un questionably' not only the best substitute for mothers' roiiic, bat the food which arrets with the largest percentage of infants. It gives strength and stamina to resist the weakening rfTects of hot weather, and has saved the lives ci thousands of infants. To any mother sending her address, and mentioning this paper, we will send samples and description of Pestle's Food. TUos. Leemis? & Co., Sole Agts, 23 Murray SC. N. Y. Doors, MOULDINGS, Sash, Blinds, Screens, Frames, TURNED AN 13 SAWED WORK. Etc. Cw"Prompt attention to all orders. T E L E ? h u i; K fie BELL 493. The Aaenoy for NESTIiE'S 3IIL.K FOOD IS WITH THE Hollistcr Drug Company. Limited Z21 Fort Ftreet, Honolulu, 11. I. EVERYBODY KNOS Geo. W. Lincoln Is Burned Out, but Still Prepared to Superintend or Build Anything from a One-roomed House to a New City Hall. All Orders Uft With John Nott, King , Street, Will be promptly Attended to. Daily Advertiser, 75 Cents per Month