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THE PACIFIC COMMERCIAL APVEBTISEB; HONOLULU, MAY 2, 1895.
NEW YORK FASHIONS. THE PREVAILING CRAZE FOR SPAN GLES PRODUCES ODD EFFECTS. Attractive Evening Gowns Spring and ii miner Goods- Nun's Veiling ln Nen and Brilliant Colors Parasol to II Called Sunshade-. Copyright, 1885. by American Pre Associa tion. If tho new craze for spangles continue, It will not be long before we 6hall rival 'ho splendor of the old time clrous rider, for the tiny round disks are 6et upon ev erything. Ribbons have glittering designs wrought upon them, collars, cuffs, waists, vests, lapels, hats, bonnets, cloaks and capes, to say nothing of slippers and fans, are all more or less elaborately spangled! Some light dresses also have deep and in- SP ANGLED AND MOIRE GOWNS. tricato figures sewed upon them. The spangles cost 40 cents per 1,000, and then tho pattern is marked In outline, and a small bead is threaded in to make them hold. An interlaced ring or chain pattern is very effective. The Greek key design is often seen, but Persian designs aro rather oftener produced. Home of tho white or light silk muslin gowns for young ladies for full dress aro simply studded with them. There are silver and gold, jet and copper and others represent ing enameled colors, blue, green, red and amethyst. They certainly add brightness to the costume, and when costumes shall have tompered the sight of thorn a little we shall doubtless consider them just tho prettiest things in tho world. Tho use of themspn velvet, however, is inexcusable and cheapens it. Silks that is, those silks of good, solid body do not look well panalcd, while satins do. A pretty evening dress for a dobutante v.as of white net, with a silk embroidered -dge to the skirt and sleeves. Tho under dress was of whito taffeta glacee, and the whole of tho net was sewed with silver spangles and a cut steel bead in tho center of each. The wholo was trimmed with rich silvery white ribbon. Tbo gloves were of a faint pink, for this soason white gloves are worn by nono but brides. A rich brown moire gown was trimmed very effectively by spangles. The skirt was plain and demitrain. There was a velvet belt, but tho whole of tho corsage was of maize silk muslin plisse, with tiny flowers arranged with the different colored spangles. Down the two front seams tbero were bands made by spangles of copper and gold, ending in fancy -tassels. Down the center of the waist and across the shoulders there were similar ones. These were wrought on ribbon first. Yokes made of light material and spangled are very taking when stretched over contrasting color, and this is often seen. I notico among tho newest spring and summer goods the always pretty nun's veiling in all the newest colors. I do not remember to have ever seen it in currant, gooseberry, aubegino or any of the rich browns until now. It surprised me to see how rich an appearanco could be produced by that simple material when shown in these rich colorings. Nun's veiling is one of the few stuffs that tako tho perforated embroideries well, and many patterns are eeen. Whito beige is a new goods, prin cipally seen in combination with some bright under color, through which tho per forated pattern allows it to flash its bril liancy. Many young ladies affect whito wool gowns, and they aro very refined and vastly more elegant than showy colors, and thcV keep clean quite as long as do the others. I recollect one that took my fancy very much. Tbo skirt was plain in front and drawn to a small bunch of gath ers In the back, where there was a rosette of cream white satin ribbon. Tho waist was o plain French one, but there was a yoke shaped collar outlined with thick gold soutacho braid. Tho sleeves were medium sized gigots, and there was a white silk mull stock, with the usual com plement of rosettes and loops. The crepons are more varied, if possible, than ever, though the demand for the fin est ribs and crinkles is still unabated. One WHITE BEIGE GOWN AND CREPON UOMEGOWN. of the newest patterns has a ground of ecru, resembling canvas, over which are wrought lines in high relief of two or three delicate tints, all interwoven. These lines form largo plaids. It appears thus like canvas, with a particolored fishnet over it In large meshes. Some others have high raised dots and flecks of bright colors con trasting sharply with tho neutral tinted ground. Theso raised figures, instead of detracting from tho rest of the weave, serve to render it more attractive. Per sonally I never have liked crepons at all, but it appears that no lady is satisfied un less she has a erepon gown of some kind. The light mohair woolens and brillan tiues an all shown in craped weaves, and the summer silks show crinkles of various depths and effects, but the rage for craped weaves has never caused feminine allegi ance to swerve from the fino woolen diag onals, and we see Mm m in hundreds of va rieties or patterns. Tho wide wale diag onals in black and the diagonal cheviotf are made up into elegant spring suits. The basket and canvae effects come next, and all of these make handsome tailor suits. The chevron wmivo U a favorite and wnen made or the sort mixed colors is de servedly so. Small silk tailor buttons to match the color are used quite freely on the tailor gowns, there sometimes being three dozen sot on the skirt, nine on each side of the two front seams. Then three or four more are put on the upper portion of these seams to close the placket and the pockot. Clusters are also frequently set upon the waist. These buttons should cot be over half an inch In diameter and a trifle smaller if obtainable. I saw a pretty new silk gown made with the crepon effect. The ground is of taffeta glacee ln fine broken stripes, which give it a mottled appearance. Over this at Irreg ular intervals is thrown a series of high crinkles in a darker oolor. The effect is very curious, but pleasing. This gown was made with a plain blouse, with a vel vet stock and draped belt. The sleeves were puffed at the top and very long over the wrists, where they buttoned snugly. The skirt was turreted over a flat band of velvet. Perhaps there were ten different colors and shades in this dress, but the prevailing tone was a soft indigo blue. Indigo, by tho way, is a very popular color in all sorts of materials; also in mil linery. Cornflower blue is in for another season, with all the heliotropes. One of the prettiest little fads is to have a fancy bow made of narrow ribbon in at least three shades of purple pinned to tho cor sage or on tho mite of a muff that one carries simply to have a place to keep the bands. Very few women know what to do with their hands any better than men do, and as they don't like to carry bun dles, and parasols are not in yet, muffs give them what they want. Speaking of parasols reminds me that they are to bo called sunshades this season, and they will be much smaller than here tofore and overwhelmed with silk mus lin, mull and chiffon. The handles will be of natural woods, and as far as possi ble will be of such woods as have a nat ural perfumo, such as cedar, sandal, etc. Some are called "iris," but If I am not mistaken there is no kind of a woody stalk about any iris. Still there may be since there is tho parasol handle, and it does smell like iris root. I might mention that all the sunshades shown novclt i e have puffings on the top, but no flounces I saw several of moire, black or colored, and these were lined with white florentln silk. They bad no lace or fringe and wen scarcely half the size of those of last, sum mer. It is possible that the now shade and summer hat are Intended to replac them. Theso hats are enormous and copy th Gainsborough and Gismonda by turns. They arecovered with high nodding plumes and flaring bows and baskets of flowers. The bonnets and Rome styles of hats are lower, but very much wide' than before. Tho bows stretched out on each side are in some cases ridiculously large. To seo a woman's profile her bonnet is tiny and lovely. Let hor turn her face toward you, FITS CURED From U. S. Journal of Medicine.) Prof. W.H.Peeke.who make? a specialty of Epilepsy, has without doubt treated and cured more cases tnan any living Physician ; his success i astonishing, w e have heard of casesof 20years'standingcured by mm. He publishesavaluablework on this disease which be sends with a large bottle of his absolute cure, free to any sufferer who may send their P.O. and "pres au drese. We advise anyone wishing a cure to NMi Prof. W. H. PEEKE, F. D., 4 Cedar St., ew ork. Ladies' Column. 1 1 CHALL1S AND WOOL GRENADINE DRESSES, and you think her bonnet is a collegiate boat and tho bows tbo outstretched oars. Somo hats or bonnets are really shaped liko boats. Others are called sabots, or wooden shoes. They turn up sharply over the forehead, but naturally tbore all re semblance ends, except such as is given by the wide paddlo shaped bows. The straw hats aro shown in such a variety that there is no giving a glimmering of them all. But for trimming tho ostrich plume, generally black, and flowers, with tho wide, low bows, will bo the principal things. Camellias, both white and red, and crush roses of three -or four colors will bo worn, and the cornflower, white, pink and blue. Tho sailor hat is still among thoso for young persons and probably always will be. Those of this season have low crowns and quite wide brims. Tho old fashioned leghorn "flat," with its flexible brim, is shown for summer. Trimmed with suit ablo flowers, ribbons and fluffy whito plumes, it will make poetic and becom ing headgear for romantic maidens in pretty white gowns. Dresses suited for warm summer after noons, where the fair wearers can have tho benefit of green grass and shrubs as background, aro being made up now and laid by for their day of need. One I 6aw just before it was laid in its vlplet scented box. It was of ashes of roses wool and silk grenadine. Around the bottom of the skirt there was a double quilling of satin ribbon of the same 6hade. The waist was Russian blouse style, with three rows of gold passementerie down tho front and one row down each sido of the front seam on the skirt. On theso wero set four ro settes of gray crepe lisso. Two more wero on each sleeve, two on the waist and two on the stock. The sleeves were looped up, leaving the forearm bare. Gloves might be necessary if this gown were worn now, but bare wrists will be very comfortable when this delicate and refined dress next sees tho light- Tho challis, or, as some write it, cbal- Jie, dress is a pretty one and will look so girlish and dainty that many girls should copy it as closely as possible. Tho skirt is fitted in front and laid in loose godets in the back. The color is a faint shell pink, with a figure of tiny fading leaves with out flowers. The waist is a full French blouse. Across the bust and over tho shoulders and also around the neck and belt is laid dark green ribbon sewed over with coppery and green spangles, and down the waist from the strap to the belt aro strings of spangles. The sleeves in the model are short puffs, but loose bish ops would bo very much more comfort able. In silks for this summer the taffeta glacee, or rustling taffetas, will be best liked. They are light, firm and fine and can be found plain, striped, figured, bro caded and printed. Indeed there is ab solutely no limit to their styles, designs and colors and also qualities. This I may say there has never been a season in my recollection where good silks were so cheap Mate Lerot. Any special design for rubber stamps engraved to order at the Ga.ette office. Did you notice that we made vo mention of the ar rival of the goods purchased for us by Mrs. Freimann while on her recent trip East ? There was a reason for it, and a simple enough one too, if you will only stop to think. You knew and everybody else knew that we were going to bring something into this market that was new and catchy. There was no need to advertise it, the judicious buy ers of Honolulu watch the arrival of our goods, they know that if there is anything nice to be had we get it, in fact that we set the pace on New Goods, Stylish Goods, at prices that are just right. This week, in addition to the regular run, we are going to make a hole in our pile of COMFORTERS ! ! While the counters loaded up with COLORED COTTON DUCKS, COLORED COTTON DUCKS, and PIQUE, PIQUE, PIQUE, will also be an attractive feature. Old pieces of Furniture made highly decorative by an application cf our ART ENAMEL PAINTS No skill is required any shade wanted. and one uan get Tissue Paper, Asbestos Paper Wires hand. for paper flower work now on Picture Framing Is our specialty for stantly receiving mouldings. which new we are con- designs in We are now offering something first-class in Colored Photos. KING 3857 HOTEL STRFET. Nestle's Milk Food for infants has. during 25 years, grown in favor with both doctors and mothers throughout the world, and is now un questionably not only the best substitute for mothers' milk, but the food which agrees with the largest percentage of infants. It gives strength and stamina to resist the weakening effects of hot weather, and has saved the lives of thousands of infants. To any mother sending her address, and mentioning this paper, we will send samples and description of Nestle's Food. Thos. Leeming & Co., Sole Ag'ts, 29 Murray St., N. V. B. h EHLERS & CO. SOMETTE ! "The best Corset in the world for the money. 5PCome and L.OOK AT THEM, TAKE THEM HOME, TRY THEM OK! And return them if they don't suit you. mi y-i j nese uorsets are maae in style to nt ana suit every body and their purses. They are in forty-seven dif ferent styles and range in price from $1 to $5 per pair. Ask to see the Extra Long Waist Sonnette for $2.25, They can't be beaten. If you can't get Corsets long enough, remember you can get the "Sonnette" with six HOOKS. Should you want a Corset With REAL WHALE BONE, get the "Sonnette." Anyway come in and see them. The Agency for NESTLE'S MILK FOOD IS WITH THE Hollister drug Company, Limited 523 Fort Street, Honolulu, H. I. THAT YOUNG MAN Doesn't look embarrassed. He is looking forward toward a pleasant evening. He knows his dress is exactly what it should be as the suit was made by us. Just in The latest in Suitings and Trouserings, imported direct from Eng land and France. Big cut in prices. MEDEJROS & CO., S. Decker, Manager. Hotel street, opposite King Bros. WING WO TAI & CO., HAVE RECEIVED EX BARK LIN A LARGE IXVOIOh OF K ATT AN CHAIRS 1 AND LOUNGES 3873 Note That the War Is over, and it is the duty of every citizen to support the existing form of govern ment. Although things may not move with the cordialty that would insure an everlasting pece, still they may be al lowed to subside into that indifference without animosity, tuat would allow either party to work out their best intt-resta. All things considered it may be for the best, but time, the only arbitrator in such case, must alone decide that. J. G. STEWART is a plumber, and will do your work in a shape and at figures that will eive satisfaction. 3949-tf 15 BETHEL STREET. CHALK TALK ! Chalk marks property made on cloth to conform with your figure, are sure to give you a fit. I puarantee to fit you in pants or suits or we don't want your trade. Give me a trial and you will come C. AKIMA, 46 Nauanu Street. H. E. McINTYRE & BRO., EAST CORNER FORT AND KING STREETS IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN Groceries, Provisions and Feed. New and Fresh Goods received by every packet from California, Eastern hfatei. and European Markets. Standard grades of canned Vegetables, Fruits and Fish. Goods delivered to any part of the city. Satisfaction guaranteed. Island trade solicited. P. O BOX 145. TELEPHONE NO. 9a. WBINKLED BEAUTIES SHOULD Use Lola Montez Creme. Skin Food and Tissue Builder. Doea not cover, but heals and cures blemishes of the skin. Make the tissues firm and builds up the worn-out muscle fibers, and maVeB them olump . Lowest in price and best in value. 75 cents lajlqk pot. Mrs Harrison's Face Bleach. Curea most awrravated caaan I of Freckles, Blackhead. Flesh Worms. Sunburn. SallowneaH. and Moth Fatches. Quick in action and permanent in effects. Price $1. Mrs. Harrison's Face Powder. Pure adhesive and positively invisible. Three shades white, flesh, biuoette. Will not clog the pores, stays on a)i day. Price 50 cents. Mrs. Harrison's Hair Vigor. Stops Falling Hair in one or two applications. Prevents Gray Hair and causes rich and luxuriant growth of Hair to grow on bald heads. Cases of years standing specially invited to a trial. Price $1. Mrs. Harrison's Hair Restorer. Only four to ten days required to restore hair to its natural color Is not a dye or bleach. No sediment or stickiness. Color is permanent when once your hair is restored to its natEral shade. Hair becomes glossy and clean. Pricb $1. Mrs. Harrison's Frizz. For keening the hair in curls a week at a time : not sticky ; don't leave a white deposit on the hair. Price 50 cents. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON, America's Beauty Doctor. 26 deary Street. San Francisco, Cal. For sale by HOLLISTER DRUG COMPANY, 523 Fort Street, Honolulu. Any lady call at Hollister Drue Company will be uiven a Lady's Journal containing a Beauty Lecture written by Mrs. Nettie Harrison. Royal Insurance Co., OF LIVERPOOL. "THE LAKGKST IN THE WOKL.IX" Assets January 1st, 1892, 1 42,432,1 74.00 by 'Fire risas on an Kinds of insurable property taken at Current rata 140 T . S. WALKER, Agent for Hawaiian Island. ENTERPRISE PETER HIGH Alakea and & CO., OFFICE Richards PLANING MILL Proprietors. near Qnoen Street, Hoiolnlii H. I VL O U L D I N G S Doors, Sash, Blinds, Screens, Frames. Etc. TURNED AND SAWEp WOKK. -a Prompt attention to ah' orders. TELFHONE Give the Baby INFANTS!NVALIDS. sfe BTjjA BOP Ayi a w k . A Perfect Nutriment TOR GROWING CHiLPRtA. Convalescents. con3u mptive5 DYSPEPTICS and Mm c-I, unl Ifl Acute IIJiM-in :uil kII UiiHtiug lJiPite. THE Best Food for Hand-fed fnfants. Orit HOOK for thf instruction of mot hern, "The Cre and Fre In of Infant, "will be mailed frm u any addrens, upon i .-.j r DOLI BER-GOODALE CO. boston. Mass.. U. 8. A BENSON, SMITH & CO., Sole Aaenin for the Hawaiian Island. aain. 3955 Head This i J. J. EG AN. Sole Agent for Islands. 3819 Hawaiian IF YOD WANT A MOTIVE POWER, order a Regan Vapob or Pacific Gab Engine; they are the best, safest and simplest in the world. JOS. TINKER, Sole Agnt . C!"Send for catalogues. Honolulu. H. I. 3688 EVERYBODY KNOWS Geo. W. Lincoln Is Burned Out, but Still Prepared to Superintend or Build Anything from a One-roomed House to a New City Hall. All Orders Left With John Nott, King Street, Will be promptly Attended to.