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THE PACIFIC COMMERCIAL ADVERTISER: HONOLULU, DECEMBER 9. 1897. E. A. JONES -THE BROKERS AND FIRE INSURANCE AGENTS. Stocks and Bonds bought and sold on commission. Parties desiring to either buy or sell Bonds and Stocks would do well tc consult us, as we have facilities for purchasing or selling at the best pre vailing market rates. Safe Deposit Boxes to rent by the month or year. Money to loan on approved security A Model Plant Is not complete with out Electric Power, thus dispensing with small engines. Why not generate your power from one CENTRAL Station? One gener ator can furnish power to your Pump, Centrifugals, Elevators, Plows, Rail ways and Hoists; also, furnish light and, power for a radius of from 15 to 20 miles.' Electric Power being used, saves tht labor of hauling coal in your field, also water, and does away with high-priced engineers, and only have one engine to look after in your mill. Where water power Is available it costs nothing to generate Electric Power. THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC COM PANY 13 now ready to furnish Electric Plants and Generators of all descrip tions at short notice, and also has on hand a large stock of Wire, Chande liers and. Electrical Goods. All orders will be given prompt at tention, and estimates furnished for Lighting and Power Plants; also, at tention is given to House and Marine Wiring. THEO. HOFFMAN, Manager. I'D. Queen Street, : : Honolulu, H. I. AGENTS FOR Hawaiian Agricultural Company, Ono mea Sugar Company, Honomu Sugar Company, Wailuku Sugar Company, Waihee Sugar Company, Makee Su gar Company, Haleakala Ranch Com pany, Kapapala Ranch. Planters' Line, San Francisco Packets; Charles Brewer & Co.'s Line of Bos ton Packets. Agents Boston Board of Underwrit ers. Agents for Philadelphia Board of Un derwriters. LIST OF OFFICERS: P. C. Jones, President; George H. Robertson, Manager; E. F. Bishop, Treasurer and Secretary; Col. W. F. Allen, Auditor; C. M. Cooke, H. Water house, G. R. Carter, Directors. WM. G. IRWIN & CO., LIMITED. ' Wm. G. Irwin.. President and Manager Claus Spreckels Vice President W. M. GlTard. Secretary and Treasurer Theo. C. Porter Auditor .SUGAR FACTORS AND COMMISSON AGENTS AGENTS FOR THE Oceanic Steamship Compaq Of San Francisco, Cal. CHINESE BAZAAR. NEW RATTAN CHAIRS; FINE PORCELAIN CUPS AN SAUCERS; CHINA AND JAPAN SILKS: MATTING; EMBPOIDERIES AND CURIOS. WING WO CHAN & CO. 210-212 Nuuaku St. BEAVER LUNCH ROOMS. Fort St., Opp. Wilder & Co., D. J. NOLTB, Prop. First -Class Lunches Served With Tea, Coffee, Soda Water, Ginger Ale or Milk. Optn from 3 a. m. tin 10 p. n. Smokers' Requisites a Specialty. P. C. JONES. Hoiiii w Deposit a UNI Company. CANTON REACHED Unfamiliar Stents M Sounds At Tie Boat Laitling. SCRAMBLE OF THE BOATWOMEt First Ride In City Proper Just Be fore Dusk Streets Unclean And Crowded. Special Correspondence. tuuL luit i'. u. a. . we airiveu in Hong Kong a day later than we had expected, so that we could take only two days for the trip to Canton. The distance between the two places 88 miles, and the time taken is 7 or 8 hours, depending on the state of the wind and tide. We came up in 8 hours against a strong north wind, and a low depth of water necessitating our taking the longer of the two chan nels up which foreign vessels may pass There is a third channel not available as yet, and the second one has only been used since 1891. On the channel by which we reached the city, we pass ed through three of the chain and post barriers, which the Chinese Gov ernment has placed across the river to prevent foreign war vessels from 1 a ascending, leaving only a narrow opening which additional chains would close ar short notice. As usual , with such business in China, more money was subscribed and appropriated than was expended; at least a third sticking fast to the obstructive barrier of offi cial greed. Maps and encyclopedias are mislead ing in the description given of Hong Kong as off the mouth of Pearl River. We found Hong Kong to be only one of a large group of islands lying along the China coast, a veritable archipelago skirting the continent. It took us four hours and a half, at 13 miles an hour, to reach the opening of the river into the sea; a point locally known as the Tiger's Mouth. Our boat, built of steel after the model of the Hudson River steamboats, with compound engines, walking beam, and paddle wheels, had ample' accommodations forward for first class passengers, of whom there were only seven. The better class of Chinese occupied the saloon aft while the multitude were housed below in the main deck with the freight. A stack of rifles with swords between, and the label "loaded" was not par ticularly reassuring as to the safety of traveling in China. The agent re fused to take specie as freight, saying in my hearing, that he would not care to have it known that they had treasure- on board. The voyage up the river was very delightful. The cool October wind, not at all chilly; the October haze veiling in soft mistiness the outlines of distant islands; the ever changing vistas of land and sea; combined to make any trip a series of charming views. The granite hills, not rough and fogged, but rounded and smoothed, under the disintegrating influences of sun and rain and wind, formed the back ground land-ward while sea-ward the view was shut in by the hill sides of the islands, barren of any vegetation other than verdure enough to harmo nize in color with the reddish brown and dull gray of the granite rocks or opened out to a wide expanse of ocean. At first the water was so green and so comparatively smooth as to seem like turf, gradually it grew a yellower green, flecked with the dark shadows of the floating clouds above, until we were in the channel of the view, which was a muddy yellow in color. The land was not low and one marsh of rice fields, as I had supposed; but the banks were of some height, five or six feet, and in many stretches lined with granite masonry. Rice fields there were, cultivated to the very edge. One of the amusing sights was the duck boat, here and there, with its wide expanse, on either side, of roost ing place for the hundreds of ducks, born and bred on these boats, taking to the water for their grubbing hunt for food, when the platform was let down; and returning to their home at the call of their owner and care-taker. We passed several "pagodas of good luck." The Chinaman, economical m his religion, as in every business of life, rows out to some place where he can see the pagoda, and rows back again, assured that he has done his part towards making life a success. A fellow passenger, who though he was a waraen oi me unurcn oi England, did not believe in foreign missions, said that there was more religion in China than in London, with all the churches and chapels; and, what was the use of trying to make people change their religion? He evidently had no such idea; of religious life as I had; and right relations to the Heavenly Father, faith, love, joy ful service, did not enter into his con ception of religion, as its essential ele ments, but forms merely, expressive of human need. We passed several fortifications, but not a man was to be seen. The guns were there; but the soldiers were on the lists on which the officers drew the monthly pay. As one of the Chinese officers said, "China had a military uniform, but not a soldier in it." Such ' fortifications would not consti tute much of an obstacle in the way of a foreign war vessel with its equip ment of modern artillery. The chief difficulty is the shallowness of the river. If 12 feet of water had been re ported instead of 11 feet 9 inches, our hnat omild have taken the shorter channel and reached Canton at least half an hour earlier. On the banks of the river, on the edges of the paddy fields, we noticed the familiar banana, - - - in the river and in the bay we passed many weirs, lines of bamboo stakes, 10 wnicn nsh nets were fastened. As we neared Canton, we passed a village here and there. Towering aDove tne nouses was in every one, a huge, high, square brick building with merest slits for windows. These are pawn brokers' shops. So little security is there for property, that at the close of winter families deposit men tneir winter garments, to be taken out when summer is passed: and vice versa, their summer garments till the close of the winter season. We noticed these also in Canton itself. As protection against assaults from without, it is said that on the roofs are syringes and carboys of vitriol. Our first sight of Canton was of the many vessels of all kinds, moored in front of some tumble down unpainted sheds. Beyond these, we saw sea-going steamers that ply between Hong Kong and Shanghai. But who can des cribe the scene when we turned sharp ly to the right; and the slipper boats swarmed around us like a flock of ducks. They heeded not the momentum of the steamer, but bumped up against the side, and the boatmen jumped on board from the top of their bamboo roofs. The noise and confusion were like pandemonium let loose, but with the malice and ill will left out. As the steamer swung around to the wharf, and the wash of the paddle wheels set the crowd of boats rocking and tossing, one expected them to be crushed in pieces. But they were as used to it as eels to skinning, and took the tumbling and craunching without the least injury. The Victoria Hotel boat is manned by a woman, as are almost all these slipper boats. Susan handed us the hotel card, took our baggage in charge with promptness, and led the way down to her boat. We had to clajnber over two or three prows till we reached the cabin. There was some carving on the gable, painted red and green, and photographs of scenes in Canton decorated the sides within, it was not the black and coffin like construc tion of the Venetian gondola; but an unpainted created affair of bamboo roof and sides; propelled by Susan's vigorous sculling astern, while a boy in the bow either rowed with his oar fastened by a straw rope to a wooden pin or pushed with a bamboo pole shod with iron, or pulled with the iron hook at the other end of the pole. The boats lay wedged close together, but every boat took its own path, and we scooted alertly, now this side, now that, now between, till we turned into the canal or creek, which separates Sha- meen, the foreign settlement, from the Chinese city proper. Shameen is walled around with granite masonry, and near giving it a pleasant' and restful look. We brought up finally at some granite stairs, in a V shaped opening in the wall, and ascending found ourselves in front of the Victoria Hotel. We met a guide awaiting our arrival; as we afterwards ascertained, the same one who went around with our Hono ulu friends who had visited the city this season. After a hasty bite of toast, and sup of tea, we entered the chairs he had provided for us, and our four stalwart coolies loped off at a swinging gait, which was very different from he trot of the short-legged Japanese jinrikisha men, but took us over the ground, and through the streets, alley ways rather, at a very rapid pace. We visited a few stores, one of the temples, but darkness came on and we retracted our steps to the hotel. Who can fitly describe a Chinese city like Canton? Chinese architecture, like its civilization and its language seems to me an agglutination, 'mere is no crystallization into regular forms and ines. It is a huge agglomerate of most miscellaneous hodge-podge, with here and there a gem. The general appear ance is what one would call dilapidated and disreputable. The streets or run nels, as of moles underground, are roofed with bamboo to keep out sun shine and air. They are paved with oose granite blocks, made smooth by the tread of bare-footed thousands, and slippery by the drip of countless water pails, taking the water of the river to the place where it is to be used. Every once in a while we crept on a stone bridge over an open sewer There is no sanitary law against ex pectorating, or accumulated filth, the constant burnine of the incense on joss sticks, made other odors imper ceptible. Each man seems to build his house, as the boatmen shore their boats, wherever he can; so that the streets are not straight, but have all manner of unexpected jo, and sharp turns. The buildings are1 of brick, of two stories, having a brick projection, about half the width of the front, which serves as a sort of counter. In the base of this projection, at the entrance, is a recess for burning joss sticks. On a line with the back of the recess is the sill for the wooden shutters with which the front is closed as night comes on. The buildings are of two stories, with tiled roofs. What becomes of the rain water, Heaven only knows It was our g00(j fortune to have royal weather for the time of our visit. I do not see how we could have seen any thing of the Chinese city had it been rainy. Bevond the ODen entrance is the work shop or the store; in most cases, dark and dismal; in the best stores, liehted by a sky-light in the roof. We looked at embroidered petticoats from the pawn brokers' establishments, hundreds of them, most beautifully embroidered in every variety of color and design. We looked at tiger skin rues, at wood and ivory colorings; but most of all,, at the tide of humanity, ebbing or filling full the narrow pas sage ways. With constant cries, our coolies pushed their way along, every one giving way, and sometimes in the narrowest alleys, flattenting their backs against the wall to gain one chair's room to get by. We saw none but Chinese. The small boy was much in evidence, and his cry, "Hi Yah!" seemed to express his surprise, if not his delight at the sight of "the foreign devils" rushing by him at such speed, for our coolies had been given to understand that a full hour's pay would be given if the whole work were done in half the time. H. Canton, Oct. 22, 1897. tne rouna headed lychee trees. Both risim JUST RECEIVED: Oo!!s9Toys9 Cmrios Japanese Novelties, Fine Art Screens, Portierres, Silks and Silk Goods. Porcelain Ware, Lacquer Ware, Handsome Kimonos, Pajamas, Rugs, Etc. 2DD CnmcOs Don't buy until you have seen our stock. The goods and prices will suit you. M URATA Hotel St., Branch Hat Store, Nuuanu St. TELEPHONE 93S. i . fsjj HOLIDAY Beautiful -AS WELL AS- Japanese Fancy Goods, Curios, Awata? Porcelains, Crockery, mmas FamQU s YumotO Wooden Silk Doylies, Handkerchief Cases S. WAVERLEY BLOCK oz Don't You Think i . . ..... .. IT an act of wisdom on the part of a man to purchase his requirements direct from the manufacturer? It Is Foolish TO purchase goods with nothing but an attractive ap pearance to recommend them. This fact is all the more important where life and limb are concerned. IN the using of cheap "brown paper" HARNESS is nothing but sheer All our harness FIRST-CLASS MATERIAL. C. R. COLLINS TELEPHONE 662. P. 0. BOX 496. And at Mil USE! aaHaabrt- 'l-nni.r att.tS&jJtaaafcSsMtf t Am, ttVrbm i.i r. fry nr . H. H. WILLIAMS. Undertaker and Embalmer. LOVE BUILDING, 534-536 FORT ST. Telephone 84G. Residence, Kins St. near Richards: Telephone 819. I Want Your Trade 6.1 MMM The Old Reliable King Street, next to of (hi Go Cor. Nuuanu. P. o. flOX -20fi. & Japanese B azaar. 4t Silk Goods Toys Ware, SEASON. Embroideries, Handbags, Etc. AKI. HOTEL STREET. madness. is HAND-MADE and guaranteed King St., near Nuuanu St., Honolulu. , Hawaii. Occidental Hotel. Builder. LIFE. FIRE wt mi AGENTS FOR Hew England Muiuol LHs Insuronce Go OF BOSTON. Eli fife Innce Conwy OF HARTFORD. Sun Insurance Office OF LONDON. The largest and oldest, purely Fire In surance Company in the World. Capital : Net Surplus $12,000,000 S,coo,ooo BISHOP & CO., Agents for tbe Hawaiian Islands SPRINGFIELD lie Largest Massachusetts Co. ASSETS ...... 14,105.374.71 W. F. WILSON, Agent. 43 QUEEN ST., : : HONOLULU. (L. B. Kerr's.) ESTABLISHED IN 1858. BISHOP & CO. Bankers TRANSACT A GENERAL BANKING. AND EXCHANGE BUSINESS. Commercial and Travelers' Letters d Credit Issued, available in all thV principal -cities of the world. CLATT8 8FHXCKBLB. Wk g. Ibwiit, CLAUS SPRECKELS & CO., B an ke rs, HONOLULU - - - - H. I. San Fbakcisco Agents The Nevada Rank of San Francisco. . DRAW EXCHANGE ON San Francisco-The Nevada Bank of San Francisco. Ixndon The Union Bank of Loudon (Ltd.). New York American Exchange National Bank. Chicago-Merchants National Bank. Pap87Comptolr Nation1 d'Escoiapte do Mr 8X1 S Berlin Drcsdner Bank. New Zealand. Victoria and Vancouver Bank of Brit ish North America. :t q General Bankino s ExciianQe Business Deposits ReceiTt5. Loans made on ApproTed Security. Commercial and Traveler Credit Issued. Bills of Exchange Bought and Sold. Collections Irorcptly Accounted For THE Will Collect your Accounts for you in a Prompt and Sat isfactory Manner. FOUR ACTIVE COLLECTORS are continually on the go, and others will be added with the Increase of business. Returns made on all bills collected the day after collection. Special rates for special classes of bills. Ring up telephone No. 256, or call around at 210 King streeet, for further Information. ON HAND: A SHIPLOAD OP NITRATE OF SODA An Excellent Fertilizer for Rattoons and Early Cane, And In the Dry Season. Advance orders filled as received from tne wharf. For further details address Hawaiian Fertilizing Company a. t. uuoke. Manager. P. O. Box 136. Honolulu. Correspondence solicited. A. Martfnoff. EXPERT ACCOUNTANT. "THE QUEEN," Nuuanu street Books experted, new sets of books opened, accounts examined, differences adjusted, etc. For many years connected with Mia Anglo Callfornlan Bank. Ltd.. of Sun Francisco, Cal. Reference: fireoidiielniMceCo. uoncrKoncr and Yokohama Honjrkon and bhanghai Banking Corporation. ew zalud and Australia Bank of 111 Mill! IflCI MESSRS. BISHOP & CO.