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THE PACIFIC COMMERCIAL ADVERTISER: HONOLULU, 12, 1901.
. - . 15 The : Maktag of Halts 8 WAV w ,HEN a tourist lands in Ha waii the first thins: he or she does after brushing the blood thirsty mosquito off his or her nose is to buy a native hat. Whether there is aught of beauty in these hats is for the individual to de cide for himself, but they have much attraction for the newcomer and the aboriginal kamaaina. Few, however, of those who sport the Island hats ever see them made. Yet within five minutes' ride of the court house is a little village whose people all day long sit and weave them and where picturesque poverty and queer habits niay be studied at leisure. To reach the odd settlement, one may go to the Healani boat house and then follow the seawall for a quarter of a mile toward Diamond Head. The place is generally known as the South Sea Isl and village and its thirty dwellers are from some far away knoll in a tropical ocean. They have squatted o the beach and tolerated by the owners of the land have made crazy houses of thef flotsam and jetsam of the harbor. Their huts are roofed with old pfc-ces of tin and the sides are freely open to the breezes. But in peace and pleasure they sr.nd their waking hours the men fish ing and the women always weaving. NATURAL WEAVERS. Horn weavers of hats and mats are nearly all the inhabitants of the islands of the Pacific. With a wealth of mate rial these people of unique ideas and deft lingers deave strands of ribtr, ferens, grasses ajid stripped stalks into the odd est possible conceits. Xowhere in the world but in. the isl ands of the South Seas, in the archipela gos of the China Sea and in the Straits Settlements, and especially in Hawaii nci, cao aimost every green thing that grews in the earth be utilized to such practical ends. From the grasses that ' . 1 ...... r-. , . tV). spring up utu-r tu ocu 4 scraggy bushes that grow near the sum- ; mits of the highest mountain ridges, trie Hawaiian mah.es use of all that grows above and below ground. If it cannot be ntf-n it can be wovea into, something that will clothe them, or else make pretty decoration. And what used fc--r human beings the throw to their beasts of fowls. ' But the art of making hats is one to which the natives seem particularly adapted. From a few ugly strands of tcugh grasses, from the delicate fibers taken from the inside of a pumpkin vine, or even from the stem of the dainty maiden-hair fern, hats of the jauntiest type imaginable when poised daintily up on my lady s head, are maae. , y- " COBls a cents a iatnom to bunches and ready for weaving. 'in- i, T J s ii is commoniy common braid takes seven strips for called the Kauai or Niihau hat. weaving, and nine or twelve fathom. ar THE PAMOHO HAT. generally required for a man's hat. The- This is made from the pamoho fern and finSers of the weaver are dipped contln ls very much like tho Tnirinha ually into a bowl of water to keep them hat when finished, although a trifle coars- moIst otherwise the straws will break., er. It is made in the same wav and tho A BAMBOO STRAW PILE. ferns are found in the same places, it Thia i is not so expensive as the other, but aa hats. The bamboo 'is cut when about a iiauusome an appear- half grown. Every joint is cut and split wance. The pamoho and sugar cane straws on one side. This is flattened out by ex- woven logetner mane a pretty effect. The posing it to the sun for a day or two. cannot be Hawaiians burden or The Ha- r An Old "Weaver wanans wor. c.r"'',",; "Tt bV hr. Placed in front and a little to of pearls. It is one of Hawaii's choicest weaving. The Btrands are braided witn the rIffht of her Jg a gour(J w bowl fill. b,tSi for neacocka are not numerous on unerring accuracy and the 'nhes grow e& wlth fregh water int0 whlch she con. the Isiands and lt takes no leS3 than m rapidly into fathoms almost before tne tjnuaily jlpg her fingers to keep the quills to make two hats. It is also a watcher comprehends the methods em- 8traw moistened. At her left is a bunch difficult task to Bplit the quills and aft ployed. v.DTPTrra of 8traws. tied together loosely with a erward trim the quills evenly with a pair MANY VAtin.iiia. string of some soft fiber all ready to sup- of scissors. There are hats for men, hats for worn- piy her braid as she weaves. Thes-j The quill is taken and shorn of its en, and hats far children. The styles straws have been stripped finely to a re- feathers. It is then split and scraped on may be a trifle out-of-date according to quired size with a needle. the inside. Two qualities of quill braid the New York or Paris modes, yet in starting the strand she holds the are derived by this process. The upper these who- wear them contrive to make braided or finished portion toward her pert ion or back of the quill is the choic them becomingly attractive. But it is in and the straw in the opposite direction. est braid of the two, for it has a pearly the varieties of hats that the makers As the straws keep moving rapidly .tin finish. The braid made from, the show their skill. From fifteen to twenty through the fingers and the braid grows under portions of the quill does not con- kir ds are maae an V'"' AthE C wZ i tuJ Tto-.Vir taI? same glossy finish- "ouh lt man's hat it is sewn upon another straw lna Is another brown hat , made from a A pickle of lime juice and water quite,- culty During the reign of King Kala- a fathom long, when it is ti together makes a beautiful white hat. There is which acts as a frame. When finished fern of the same name. strong is used, for If too weak it will not kaua hats made of the iiulls of ttep with a Bering . .anfa.e weaving is on feature about these haU whlcn - according to feminine terms, is The makaloa hat isanufactured from Soften the bamboo. If too strong It wiK cock were much worn. Hundreds of quills then continued until fathom after fath- to the wearer. and that is that it viaim lit na: .'fmw- Tt ,h oKf i-hth r an inv, i .i, k.t - r-. were required in the making of a single A"f never discolors. When soiled, it is ens- cannot stand much wear for it is easily width. It grows in swampy places and its beine of a dead white color. A wear- haa a AQ VGA ft-nlciH " T - la nvw a hIba a -k Ha AvtrAwiAli natAKfnt n r one of the most durable, and was the length of time the bamboo is sub Sometimes both sides of the quill are made from the pumpkin straw. In the made mostly for school-children's use in Jocted to Its lime Juice bath. The outer- woven to make a braid. The effect is early 'seventies the late Dr. Hoffmann, former years. It is not used to a great skin must be stripped before being split not so beautiful, but it takes but 200 on of the old kamaalnas, sent one of the extent nowadays. It sold for 50 cents. After coming out of the pickle the bam were required m the maiung oi a Bing.e om is maae. Aiier me oraia nas oecome never di800lors. When soiled, it is ens- cannot stand much wear for it is easily width, hat and infinite care and patience exer- a fathom long the native woman holds it ily cleansed by a cautious use of soap. Arched W exposure to the sun. " the hat cised in bending the quills in such a man- under her knee in order to keep it firm water and a p' Beautiful anclal flowers are also ever on ner that the contour of the crown was and even. When the braid is completed e fl V4V "i. rfwT S" perfect They were handsome types or it is sewn into whatever shape is desired, headgear and the wearers had 1 to pay a TAKES A SKILLED HAND. ' IT.in. ,lT nT o-v, , . quills to complete a hat by this method, hats and a spray of flowers to the Berlin The rush is dried and flattened and then boo is peeled into two or three slices. The ZT tZ ttrlrT hoTwoa whn 7rrk , r,o7i,.rToVa TT In former days when peacocks were more Exhibition and it took the first prize, a woven about a block. " fiber Is scraped off until it is smooth an wrVmn SkntTftS in IriMdTrtin ,v Z! l? l ww X Lr 7iY . numerous it coet but Jl.50 for 100 quills, gold chain and a locket with a pearL It A Mlt of a certain thickness. After that It has. r nf P,L Lt, ld hardlv be frt i UJ, thl t-t- iSSL Tne most expensive feature in connection was forwarded to Dr. Hoffmann., who . A REAL KONA HAT. to e drfed ,n a 8had lace Tpe flber at present. Such hats could hardly be streets, and which the tourists love so ... , l , , , . ij v, . ..,i . . ..... . - . .. , . t j . w i l 1 1 tilts Udl IS -lilt; YVt'M V lur l!ie picaciiltru 11 IV Hits tauj "U ncbvcu J nO lOUlU, Or lail pcLllll, Iiat is liutue O. L id jiavcu vii a. wcbi u anu v . native has to trim both s'des carefullv hat. The braid alone for the pumpkin Kona, Island of Hawaii, from the young with a knife. The bamboo fiber is verjr with scissors. They cannot be torn off straw hat costs about $5.. leaf of the palm. It is cut from the tree sensitive and will ta(ke the color pf any with a needle, as are the strands of the .,.. n mnr. room th. and dried in the sun for about a week, paper it is wrapped. in. Tahitlans andi order to 8USar cane and others. The work is also Jfc Jg then paced Jn salt water and again Hawaiians always use blue paper. The- very hard on the fingers. Twelve dollars Tho natives strip the leaves leaving dried. This operation fs repeated four or hat was first made in Tahiti. Very oftem to fifteen dollars is usually the cost of only tne center, or Diaae. ine ouisiae or five tmes jt mu8t be dried in very hot th- black stalk of the hill banana is a braid alone to make up Into such a tn,s la Peeled away and thrown aside. weather for the hotter the sun's rays the mixed with the white bamboo, mavlng. nai. i ne oraias are maae Witn a pretty " La auuJctLCU - -" i-..... whiter the Dalms will bleach, ureat care a novei oiacH. anu wmte euwu made now for less than $25 well to don. It is made in the same Then there is the maidenhair fern hat manner as the Panama hat. over a made from the stems of the pretty fern round or oval block of wood. It is nec which householders delight in fostering, es&ary to hold the straw on to this block These are small and exceedingly brittle while the weaving goes on, in when dried and are really the most diffi- give the hat the proper shape. cult to manufacture into headwear. The The kouana, or strands, of the ie, or stems have to be wound about with straws, is commenced from the center of thread at short intervals in order to se- the crown, as a round table mat is cure the crown contour. When complet- made. Additions are made until the ppf,rl,.fl",sh,r Hawaiians 1.9J.l Mix, ?nW.yE ,9 exercised by the natives not to allow THE LAU I1ALA OR PANDANA. the call it the ll-lu t i j Hnn Thv nr thpn dried In a Bhadv . , j. mem 10 oecome wti uy ran or uew. -f tVlo, holo ..Rt.A tar. piace. wiin a pair oi scissors me siranua fn, rriirip.w COmes milrklv. Tha oalms . r.wt. " are trimmed even, and then they are are torn lnto flno strips with a needle subjected to rouerh usae. Hats of this bpJence of the hat is woven with this BnaPe Bucn a nat- k nu navo rwpnr v nm mr 214 eacii. mirn npr or srranaB anu - nr morp 1 nr t h phmpktv tttt?ttt tt a t . 1 . . . 1 - . . . . " ' --w -" IfiUl V lur Lilt? WCdVlllK WllAXOO. X IJtT 1 v1 -A J - iV nM n Then the prices dwindle down to as low edges of the flat crown are mo-stened 0u , " nf t, ",,',- n nrU bPnWT1 v"Y.l They are then coiled into rolls. It i as UM. It Is chiefly the latter hats that ant! the sides are shaped by weay.ng - " and the middle strin is of a golden brown LJT "1 woven over a block. There are t una me largest market both in Monomm around the piook until it is nearly tnree v " . .V"; m wh.n tho two roior- r woven " .ll 7 "J , ' : c cies of the haia-the white and the red. this hat. It is boiled, then dried, and afterwards scraped until quite smooth. woven over a block. There are two spe- and on the Mainland. Within the past inches deep. Then more straw is added vv,la tmco - -- ,atifi i "al 18 8Lla lor lro1" "-a" lo J ,H . The red hala makes the rich brown hat year it wag the fad to wear the Hawaii- in order to widen and spread the bottom or four Joints from the end of the vine igeier u"' "".r' Perlor to the lau hala hat. It is similar V "J rallv nnld for About S2.50- an hat on the Mainland for golf, driving to make the required brim. At the boi- ana ca8,t3 them aside ror they are too INA-INA, OR MAIDENHAIR FERN. to the Panama, except that it Is of a ' :whltehala la' a lutie cheaper Lik and outing wear. California was alive torn of the crown where the hat-band YB for use. Four more joints are The Ina-Ina. or maidenhair fern, hat Is creamy color. the cocoanut ha it is very popular and with the native hat and the coming year should be, a fine string is run throur"' inen made. A large quantity from dif- the queen of the brown hats and Is con- The ha ko, or carte leaf, hat Is made become the fad. It was formerly promises to-be equally favorable to them, to hold the shape and size of the hat and fprent vines are so cut. Each Joint is sldered by many connoisseurs the choic- from the center or blade of the sugar . f fl carrIed th. Wound about with a pugarree of parti- to divide the crown from tue brim. tl'en cut and sliced separately. A smooth, e5t hat n Hawaii. It takes a great many cane leaf and is of a creamy, satiny fin- ,t d brown nat colored silk and pinned upon the hair These hats are only made from the fan f1a,n board, a bucket of water and a stems of the dainty maidenhair fern t ih. The leaf Is torn away from the cocoanut and hala leaf with pins made of the old Hawaiian palm leaves of Kona, Hawaii, the cocoa- are the only materials used In the manufacture a single hat. for thev ae Made and the soft fiber scraped away "V:u,,v th. tourists and een- coing, the Hawaiian hats are always nut palm leaves, the lauhala or pandann cleansing p-ocess. The green meat Is not mow than nine inches in length and fiom the vein with a k-nlfe. leaving only ' V" u nw trimmA certain to attract much attention. loaf, and the makaloa, a fine rush wh'?n scraped rrom the stalk. leaving a tough the braid has to be joined quite often th glossy s'de. This is dried -and tnen - - hn yZ.afl haA nr n,.Mr air . . . m ... i f . m .m ri, tX'VtltA Icfllrt nrlth nwnn. fTV. I . tn . . . . . .n1t a i r a AnAllffh fftf flPatla q iirati on pnr xor rn maKinir or inp in 11- " . . . -. mm riccii ruio. j ii;b in n in wpav nir p-npa on r nrmprmorfl it oun s. miv r w anus r- - v. va.v , - .1 . - - hau mats that are so expensive, but as thrown Into the bucket of water and left js not so pliable as other -straws and lr,g. The hat is very pretty. j"m a r w' nSer Island a hat it is the cheapest sold. stsnd ng over night. Fach day for four stands. wTiTr, np Bmi rm5 HAT. : S AV. nTTrr, WP.WR(: oavs tne issues are scraped until all the The strands are kept moistened contln- " wrth KONA v OMEN NUTbU WLAVfcKS. green veins and meaty substances are tiruslv until the braid is finished. The The cane blopsom sta'ks are split in reain. i' The fan palm hat is known as the Ko. gone. F'esh water is tiped each day. frn Is strinnpd of Its loaves Thpse are half and the fiber scraped away with a THE COCQANUT FIBER HAT. . SOME COME HTGH. inirteen varieties to choose from are almost enough for those hardest to please. Today there are that many kinds of hats made by Hawaiian weavers. It e5;en:i3 upon J"e,3 f v. v. na hat- and 18 quite expensive. The worn- After be'og thcrougMy cloanod It has the jaid out in a shadv plao. and gradually knife. The stalks are then tied up in This i3 made in the same way as the one snail have a lauhala hat which can en of Kona are noted for their skill at nvroarance of a piece of wh!te s!lken dried for a few days. When quite drv large" bundles and coiled from one end hala or pandana. Sometimes the leaves ne Dought for ?2 or at the most J3, to hat-weaving, and whether it is the hand- rai . As enoh strard Is r!nsort It is thev are placed on a smooth board md Into a roll. It is again tied and thrown are dyed by burying it In a Uro patch tne peacotk quill hat at X2a. The prices some ana costly fan palm or 'the thrown on a sheet of clean paper, where a damp cloth placed rpon them with Into hot water and loft to boll until the mud, which turns It to a -dark gray range as widely a-s the varieties. plebeian lau hala hat, it is , beautifully it dr!o? quickly. Tf it is not as white as which tho Ktpms are fattened A knife stPlks look yellow. They are taken out shade. Again the dry leaves are used. l here are only two w-ays of making the made. th w aver wishes It, a few drops of fs also u.od whlrh cleans lt thoroughly, nod untied and placed in cold water for which makes it a brown hat. The hat iiawaian hats. One of them is to take The cocoanut, or lau niu, hat is mo- Hue lr.k are roppd into a basin of a number of stems are bunched and half an hour. They are then dried In weavers are very fond of miring the- a niimDer or stands and weave a braid generally known as the Lahaina or Mmi frFh water, making a 1 ght Mttf shade, wrapped H a tl leaf or damp cloth to the sun for many days until thoroughly young and old leaves to give th brown oi aoout ten or nrteen tatnoms, which hat, for cocoanuts abound there and a The Ftrart's are placed in th b.-isln. krrn thorn soft. dry. By this moans the straw, is and white effect. They a'so make the is usually sufficient to make an entire large bat-making industry has grown a-rf loft standing for a short period. When sewn Into a hat It presents a brought to a l'ght color. The sugar cine bats on a block and shape them from nat crown, brim and an. A day and a up on the Island. Each steamer from Fach strand is then picked out and run hnt Tul appearance. Being a hoavv hat stalks must be cut before the blossoms it. all the while making fancv rtosifms na.r are generally empiojed to make a Lahaina brings a number of hats to tlvs through tho Pngors a.id then thrown n thoy aro mad almost ent'rely for men. ae quite opon. so that tho straw will be of brown and white with their-deft fin- singie tra'f; aittiougn a rapid weaver port and find a ready sale. But tho a sbet of white paper to dry. A needle The maidenhair forn grows chieflv in of a light color. Wh-n the blossoms are gers. The hat usually retaMs at S3, car. make it in less time, lt seems a ctcoanut and pandana hats are made all is usod to Ftrip it into maIW and very ravines and near waterfalls and nsuailv in full bloom the' stalks are much harder Thre are othr hats which the Ha-' Pleasant pastimee and is very lascinat- over the group. Here in Honolulu a num- fino strands for weaving. The straw Is n places difficult to reach. Tt is - also and break easily, and are very much dls- waiian and South Sea Islanders make, wr, an onloo.1Ler- .V'"611 etVf, ber of wmen are kept busy trying to very. limp, though tough and weaving is found near the beach at Kahuku. whre colored. After the stalks are dried they but the abovo varieties ar generally " , V , J " , " " BuPP'y te demands or the market. rfnriy q ute Flow, for it Is extremely It grows in a shadv doll In abundance, are again subjected to a knife scraping those manufactured at the present day. HATS OF PEACOCK QUILLS. and few mistakes Into their work made. A weaver sits on the floor of her house Scientific iscel (any port. Avren the h-aid U rompWpd it H Most of the ferns for hats come from remove the remaining fiber. With a Thf; industry Is a thriving- one and big" frPnrrn .1 V Sewn On a frnmo- tViot la If f V Telo tA a TS-., t ti nnnrlla arollra thon rfti-n intv vorv fKvm aitma tl,A Cfntaa in ine peacock quill hat Is snow white and intended for a lady's hat; but if for a in the mountains. The hat is an expen- fine, even strips. Then they are tied In- every mall during the spring months. "Jf ntf iwds have been cared for y inS the whole face Instead of a few to use carbon disulphide, acetone or pe- Inches through the air in preference to corded by Dr. B. F. Ward Is that of a fores.ters and 100 subordinates, muscles a discovery that wUl doubt- troleum ether in very simple apparatus, the tube. On passisg a street current very tired workman who, sitting down and the regulations have been on the less be followed by others as this art of consisting of a tank for the solvent, one of 110 volts, broken by a Wehnelt in- to rest a moment on . a railway cross most scientific European model. With analyzing expression develops. for the flowers and a third for the solu- terrupter. a thick red stripe extends tie, was lulled into unconsciousness by usual Spanish laxity in administration, kte. tlori, with steam worm, condensing throughout the length of the tube, the vibrations of an approaching train, however, chief attention has been given An interesting bit of our nlanet's worm and rrnmn Tho stonm boat ppnt- Whonth current Is roduopd bv auita- and onlv awakened manv hours aftPr- tn rrllprtine 11aneAa ant ntfii. . i , . . . . . .. . ... . . . . . D muiy 1S reaa m Aioissnn's electric rur- ly aistnis off the solvent, leaving an ble resistance the stripe breaks ud into ward, when he found that ms leu arm nueS. naoe. Tho moto!H r.ov,l?r- mn tt n t : . i " j it u t v.A x- J . v. v.on .rush. r. . .t are like those of the sun and stars and, age pomade. upright, with the anode uppermost, the ed. The man had not been drinking- The forests of the Philippines are Composite photographs, combining it is thought that such compounds Jt&Jt patches rrroun themselves into a spiral. It Is concluded that the vibrations I nflllPTif tn rSm tln ohnnt kflfl r-rnri a TnQflV TlrTTl fPQ Cf O Ct T f crit O tvrA f mr 1 l . . . . ... . . . . . . . a:t- 0v w ,aif;fiy oeoomposaoie Dy water once Jf lexibie lithographic plates are made which slowly turns around on its axis, must be uniform, rhythmic ana sienmiy more than 400 being now known. There were brought out nearly twenty years held the world's carbon. When coolin? by Theodor Koehler by coating thin making a revolution in almost 7 sec- increasing In force, and that a suitable- f Jin! S.Pe(i I ?alms 22 oe oa- ago b Franc'sv Gallon F R. S He formed water, the carbides were de- sheets of wood, celluloid, pasteboard or ends.- The v.-ave line of rotation ap- metallic operating table with vibrating ramlly Including two oaks, and 9 coni- now advances the opposite idea of an- composed, forming hydrocarbons. Oxi- other material with a paste-like mix- pears to descend. The screw is usually wheei3 should give harmless anaesthe- .ij nuc yiuc me -.j v.&i . wcw, iu i us u uauon gave carbonic acid, then vege- ture of kaolin, zinc white and water abont an ir.h in diameter and left- sla as profound as that rrom cnioro- named growing in a dense forest above what is individual in the expression by table, followed by animal, life became glass. The dried surface Is found suit- handed, but is sometimes F.rr.aUer. and form. -3 a height of 4,000 feet In the Island of combining different photographs of the possible. 1 able' -for receiving the lithographic de- Is then rfeht-handefi. the pitch varying JtJ Luzon, At least 50 species are valua- same face. Two portraits, for exam- pigns. with current and rale of interruption. In the unique observation of Chaplain Die. One of the most important is the pie, show a man with normal expres- The perfumes of flowers are best ob- Jtjtjt ' J. T. Elrd of the British army the zodi- yang-yiang tree, yieding a much-prized sion and when he is smiling. On plac- tained by distillation, but where high Curious and striking la the new elec- The murmur of a distant waterfall, acal light and the moon were seen td- . but others furnish cocoanuts, ing a positive transparency of one pic- temrernture charsres tho substance the trioal vacm, ni.o ct v. n,,vi- tho mttArnf rainmno nn tho mnf and f-othof within 4R hours of new. being gutta-percha, varnish, many dye woods ture on a negative of the Aher, details usual process is enfleurage, or absorp- mer. The air is pumped from a glass other rhythwiic vibrations produce a lighted only by earth-shine. Tbjs tndi fori fmei, d W00d3' Asvstemof common to both are obliterated and the tion with. fats. Separation by solvents tube r.bout 3 feet long and 1 Inches soothing effect upon the nervous con- cateB great transparency of the South iorestry has existed 35 years. Between result is that only the smile is left, has renulred onstiv nnnaratna rtut n xca until o i, n.iwh tare thot mov riaoon trxtn ontnai anoos- a tr, otmnoro nnrf that the'zodi- zv,wo,ooo and 40,000,000 acres of govern- The smile proves to be an act Involv- new factory at Frejus, France, claim Induction coil Just forms a spark of 6 thesla. Among striking examples re- acal light Is beyond the moon.