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-SUNDAY 'ADVERTISER, JUNE 12, 1904. r-SSs?? ' i' 'sptXr : - V:-;-: - -O I "- A 'Trip1 to the 6 -6 licfi " THE ways of travel between Ho nolulu and the volcano of KI lauea, have been slowly but steadily improving for thirty years. Time was when they were comprised in a cruise to Hilo by sailboat and In deck passage from there on a mule over a mountain trail, the latter thirty-one miles long and the journey end ing at the door of a shed. After a while a rolling and tumbling steam coaster connected at Hilo with a stage -which carried the passenger up a fair road to a comfortable inn. Now the spick and span Klnau with bilge keels to keep her from that corkscrew mo tion which made a traveller feel as if he were In a state of spiral fermenta tion, steams nimbly on her course, car rying people right side up and landing them in Hilo in one day or less. A train takes the sightseer through plan tation and jungle to a point twelve miles from the volcano from which a stage runs to as neat and comfortable and well-managed a hotel as one could tope to find in any isolated rural dis trict. The road' there, though rough underfoot, leads through the most de lightful vistas of tropical forest; past giant ferns, wild bananas, strange trees covered with parasite vinesy lanks of wild roses, bushes laden with ' new and delicious small fruits, all the growths in a tangle andj in the upper i levels, inhabited by red birds. As one climbs upward the air ' freshens artd attains the tonic zest which belongs to an elevation of from 3000 to 4000 feet. It is worth the price of a trip to Ha waii on the Kinau, If the skies are clear, to see the beautiful north shore t the big island, Robert Louis Steven- son wrote of the "Arid coast of Oahu" and arid enough it looks as one : ap proaches It by sea. But the north or northeastern shore of Hawaii gives no euch impression. From Upolu Point to Hilo the land, for the most part, looks like the Garden of the Lord. Vast plantations, clad in the incom parable green of growing cane We near est the bold shores and above and be yond these are spacious forests. On the horizon rises, to a snowy bastion above the clouds, the extinct volcano of Mauna Kea, with the gigantic shape of Mauna' Loa, the active volcano, feeeplng it company. Kohala, the first district you see In the cultivated area terminates on the flanks of that dark, gloomy and impressive mountain up lift, beginning with palisades that breast the sea, where the inexhausti ble Kohala water-supply is stored. The shore measurement of this primeval solitude is said to be about twelve miles. It is a place of abysmal forests and of rapid streams which go plung ing Into the sea at intervals of a few hundred yards. Sometimes the water launches itself over a high cliff; again It gushes out midway down the face of the rock; anon it races through a can yon to a lower fall. Millions of gal lons of fresh water are wasted there every minute enough to irrigate the whole territory if it could be held and distributed. Beyond ':hls forest and mountain preserve, the Hamakua district pre sents another vista of green planta tions and upper woodlands, with new angle glimpses of Mauna Kea and Ma nna Loa. Landings for big sugar mills are here and there and one sees cane bundles and bags of sugar travelling ', Ktt vitv down lines of wire from ! the high ground or the mill as the case mar be merchandise which seems to I fly along on its own wings, now cast ing its shadow upon waving fields, now uoon sunlit gorges, then upon looking at the bright country and it Teminds one of a perfect Eastern lands cape In the month of June. The green is that Of young meadow-gras?; the homes have that Eastern air of set tled oomfort and family tradition: the far. indeterminate fores t. mlKM be of j eim ana ""r V" ' The alien note is struck, however, by occasional groups of palms or the re- j mains of some ancient heathen temple and most of all by the brilliant tropical sea, the sea of shimmering blue where the flying-fish flash and the porpoes olav. the sea unvexea uy munuer storms or sudden gales, fanned by soft breezes and one which softly piles Its milky surges on the shore. ... Hilo! For Insomnia take Hilo. As a cure for wak 'ulness it is ertual to a life-membership in ' the Honolulu Chamber of Commerce. I watfched the stores slowly open late one moaning as If the owner had gone, like thei galley slaves, unwillingly to their tasks- Th Ice which. In some occult wary had found a man to deliver it early. Jay on the sidewalk melting at the rat of a ent a pound. A horse stood ili the street awhile and then fell flown, while 1 waited to see If he woul fi curl up and purr himself to sleep. (l!t was In HUo where Rosa Brown e ma?e his (J-.,;j?PiK ,31 V WALTER GIFFORD SMITH. famous remark that he never saw but one Hawaiian doing anything and he was falling off a house.) Along about 11 a. m. I entered a store on the main street to make a small purchase and was reminded of the man who went into an Arkansaw grocery for a quart of molasses. The Arkansaw merchant got up slowly and then sat down, shaved off a chew of tobacco and droned out, "Say ain't there no other place in this yer town where you can get those molasses?" Even the Chi namen who have brought the blight of Asia to Hilo's principal street are drowsy and so must be the mosquitoes, for I didn't see but one and he was so tired he could hardly present his bill. In a restaurant I had to stand and ring a bell to get anyone to come and be paid. There is no hotel in Hilo; enter prise is so dead that they leave the entertainment of strangers to a lodg ing house and cafe. There isn't a horse-car in the plack and the hacks I saw had not yet acquired rubber tires. The telephones are those ancient things you turn with a crank. But for sleep Hilo beats Ephesus or the place where Rip Van Winkle met the dwarfs. Except for the movement about the Volcano Stables, which is the one Hilo place where something is doing, you don't hear a sound to disturb you from 9 p. m. to about 8:30 a. m. except the soft boom of the surf, the cries of distant seabirds and the jingle of gold twenties as Admiral Beckley counts his money. fHllo, in fact, is a shady and tolerant Rest Cure. Tou can, in fact, get rid of all the bad effects of the Hurly Burly by a stay of twenty-four hours. They don't even kick there any more; it's too much like work. Somebody told me that a Hilo man wrote to Claus Spreckels suggesting that if he would repair his hotel build ing there it could be opened to the pub lic. The reply was: "I wont do a thing. I iope to live long enough to see Hilo a rotting pile of lumber." 5 Mauna Loa is a titanic mass of soft honey-combed rock, with deep galleries and bubble-chambers, fathomless sinks, crooked chimneys, cracks and fume roles, as full of airholes as a sponge and containing in its depths a fiend's la boratory where molten granite is mixed with brimstone. When an earthquake shakes the island you may hear sounds in the abysses of the mountain as if a gale was rushing about through "cav erns measureless to man." Then when too much molten rock has been stored up it rises and, following the line of least resistance, comes out perhaps from the top or sides of the mountain, perhaps from the fearsome pit of Ki lauea, perhaps from your back yard. By certain signs you generally know when an eruption is due and are at liberty to guess all round the mountain as to where it will appear. Invariably during the past century white people have , been lucky enough to get out of the way. The scenic point for tourists is Ki lauea, on the far outer rim of which is the hotel. Standing on the front portico of this pleasant hostelry you look down over the tops of small, red aigretted trees, to a black arena such as Satan might employ for the Satur day afternoon field sports of a hundred thousand devils. This arena is paved writh twisted lava, on which may be seen, especially when the air is cold, jets and puffs of steam. Away off in the center is the Pit from which sul phuretted clouds are almost ever rising; and about the vast outer circle are precipitous cliffs from four to six hun dred feet high, destitute of vegetation and showing steam for a space back of their brmksi, but not usually from their steep sides. It is precisely such a place as Dante saw and as Dore pictured; and one may easily understand, after looking down the awful well of Ki lauea how the early theologians got their physical idea of a place of ever lasting torment. There is the brim- sone lak. e bottomless pit. the fire that never dies and all the other acces sories save the gentlemen with horns and hoofs. Momentarily you expect them to emerge and look about for lots of people you know. abysg tht There you stand on the edge of an j aoyss mat goes straignt down ior over a thousand feet to a hot floor of which you havj gmpBeg throu?h the wh,rUnK vapora floor covered with Vmall hiUock9t each w5th a ti cr.Uer of tg own wh,oh may at gny moment pour QUt a stream of liquid r(X.k Tou are poised on a lwJge of cracked lava cracked in a semi-circle about you. and ready, it would seem, to fn!l in and carry you pIt. PfrhT the cl?ff b" low is i? .-.- r-"- " -y "it", far Jn heur lindlide" and ; draw back in affright. Nobody ever : gets hurt there but everybody wonders ; w hy. J People go from the Volcano Hoise to a point near the crater on horseback. I The wiry little nags they rule are put in a lava stone corrnl and the rest of the trip is mnd r before reach ing the bri: ?- e if a hot S where the elemental f - -f the surface thnt you er . - r " ' ! cook a mal. While you are resting mat handy bench rock an asbestos cushion might come in well. Further I along is a hole in the cola lava, opening I "r--- i: -ly-s by ladder Into a bubble chamber which the visitor is expected to climb down into and explore. Candle in hand you go through that place and into various dark passages where little nubbins of stalactites may be picked from the roof. On the surface are various curios, a hot sink known as the Devil's Kitchen, and a miniature volcano which one of the Dickey brothers, years ago, named the Little Beggar. An eruption was on in the main pit then and a sideshow volcano about sixteen feet high cropped up on the lava plain, much to the dis gust of an English tourist who found, as he said, "the nawsty little beggar spitting in my pawth." When Dickey heard that he baptized the impudent volcanic stranger with the name it yet bears. . Nobody should leave Hawaii without a visit to Kilauea. Charles Nordhoff, who was widely travelled, once said: "Kilauea is one of the seven wonders of the world. The others are the Pyra mids, Niagara, Yosemite, the Yellow stone, the Taj Mahal and the view from Mont Blanc." And Charles Nordhoff knew what he was talking about. , 4s One learns to his surprise that the Volcano is owned by the Bishop Estate and leased to the Volcano House Com pany for 5750 a year. What is more, the company is bound by contract not to remove the volcano or any part of it. What fumes escape cannot be account- 0O00OOOKOOOOOOO0CO0 WWWKW(MMHHKW00 ? o o o 6 o o o o o o o o 6 o o o o o o o o o O o o o o o o o o 6 o o o o 6 KOA ed for; but woe to the man who takes J away that lava or those beetling cliffs I or packs up the Little Begsrar. Thei Little Beggar has cooled off into an asset and is probably set down for a sum equal to a prince's ransom in the great ledger wherein the Bishop Estate records the ownership of so vast a part of the soil and lava of Hawaii-nei. One loves the Bishop Estate' because it is a standing refutation of the libel that the missionaries got all the land, Count up what the old kings took and , which came down to their posterity, 1 Mrs. Tiishnn amnnp- tVio rt n.'ri what the kings put aside for the support of the crown and there was a bare third left for the common people, and a pret ty poor third at ti: The "kings took the best as kinr-" ro. Of the T30 peo ple of missionary extraction in these islands I dare say that their land-holdings could be hidden in one corner of the Bishop Estate: and of these I don't believe tr.re wns an acre acquired dis hovstly. If there was. the anti-missionaries hav not vet put their fingers un 11. The May climate at the Volcano M'sC eft l&i 'Q, l ;-; ' t-i .- ftf : -:r ..-.' ' -. . .--t fl" 'J'-rT - 4 t T - " J.- V - '' 2- ".- ' 4 struck me as being like that of San Francisco in summer without the "hol low changeless breeze." The skies are often sullen, the days are never warm as under a sympathetic sun and at night one needs heavy blankets. Occa sionally the clouds touch the earth and produce the effect of fog. As in San Francisco there is a stimulant in the air and the new-comer from the heat of Hilo instinctively draws long breaths and fills his lungs. Whether due more to climate or appetite I am not sure, but vegetables and other food seem to taste better at the Volcano House than they do down on the lowlands any- where. Crisp air is needed for other growths beside celery and they say it makes potatoes, cabbages and especial- ly turnips of better flavor. As for ap- petite the more cold the more hunger and the more need of stimulating food, The Volcano House has a plain, whole- some and appetizing menu, three times a day. And there is abundance on the table. The comforts of the Volcano House are simple and genuine; the discomforts few if any. Of things that vex the spirit down by the sea one meets none no heat, no mosquitoes, no cock roaches, no wilted vegetables, no cold storage food. To be sure the Nature Man happens in but as he doesn't stay long the affliction can be borne. Clima tically and almost every other way one reve"'s in contrasts at the Volcano House. There are cool days and crisp evenings times when you can see your breath; there is a vigorous appetite all the while; and it is fed on good things that taste as they do back East. Then one may be careless and comfortable in dress, for Host and Hostess Bidgood are no more austere in sartorial rules than hospitable farmers would be. You may clothe yourself in your easiest gar- ments and then "loaf and invite your soul." You may get up from '.he fern nook where you have been making your peace with nature and go to dinner without running the gauntlet of poised lorgnettes. There is solid comfort in the great rude, whitewashed sitting room with its blazing fireplace, its easy, old-time rocking chairs and sofas, its billiard table and record books. People desert the stiff parlor and gather in the big room where they read, smoke, pop corn, make molasses candy and play pedro. There is not a single glint of style about that room. It is as uncon ventional as the inside of a log house. But warmth and cheer and the air of peace are ever there and the worried ( They have been kept since 1865 and con mortal straightens out his nerves and tain the names and sentiments of guests the selfish one grows sympathetic. The who cared to leave such mementos be whitewashed room is full of memories , hind. One hears that there were record too; it used to be all there was of the j books away back in the thirties and hotel and many a king, queen, prince, I forties, but no one knows what became admiral, statesman, scholar and liter- 1 of them. Towards the present series, FOREST NEAR VOLCANO rateur has been solaced there. Some of them left their autographs to prove it but these have been mostly cut from j the book. Aside from the big room is a spacious porch with a conservatory-lanai at the ' end; a goodly parlor dining room and J office; a sequestered bar ar'l. up stairs, ! clean, well-aired rooms with good beds, j Outside is a steam sulphur bath with ! a cold shower a bath supplied with j vapor from the vent holes near-by S which Kilauea. distant thre mils, uses j for exhaust pipes. These vents are ! useful in other wavs for the servants ; about the place heat water in such of J them as are located close to the back door. One of the smaller fumeroles is beside the path leading from the hotel to the pig-pen and it is a curiosity in its way. You can hardly see the vapor from it until a match is lit and then it rolls out in white clouds. Outside you find what? Golf links? Not a link! Race-courses? Not a race course? Lovers' Leaps? Not a leap? Latticed arbors? Not an arbor and the city man thanks fortune for that. But he will find the most delightful walks and bridle paths; horses to gal- lop on; views that photograph them selves upon the mind forever; oxygen like champagne: the flowers that grew in those home door-yards of New En gland and some that tell of good old California; and off back of the hotel the simple, delightful and profitable oc cupations of the farm. For small farm ing in its most intimate phases is a sue- cess at the Volcano House and the way vegetables and garden fruits grow and poultry and pigs thrive and cows yield ; cream would bring a smile of content to any man with the soul of a New Englander. Wild berries are about, the sacred ohelo, a luscious red raspberry and abnormal growths not gor to eat raspberries as big as English walnuts, I 4 The sightseer at the Volcano House too often contents himself with a visit j to the crater and to Kilauea-iki, and J with the creature comforts which Host t Bidgood knows so well how to provide, , But there are other things worth whi'e which one finds at the end of pleasant drives, a stately fern forest, for in stance, a place of picnic glens and the ( twitter of strange birds. Further along j ig a koa grove, gnarled and twisted and almost prostrate, looking like the night- mare forest which Dore's pencil drew across the darkling text of Dante. Close by one finds what is left of a gigantic koa grove of antiquity trees from three to eight feet in diameter. These relics are mould3 in solid lavas; deep holes, their sides marked with bark lines and twisted places where the branches thrust themselves through the , molten flood which suddenly overwhelmed them. Here was a deep gulch into j which lava poured like a flood, encasing , the trees and suddenly cooling as lava ; does cooling so quickly that the bark ( of the trees was not burned off but ' held together to leave its autograph in J the strange matrix. Looking down into j the earth, ten, twelve, twenty feet and ; more, one sees the mould of a tree which may have been gr;en and leafy . when the cradle of Moses rocked in the I river among the reeds, or when from the depths of Mount Sinai ascended the lava fires which the Israelites, in their superstitious terror, confounded with the presence of Jehovah. Unfortunately the owner or lessee of the tree-mould park ' is filling up the holes to keep 'his pigs and calves from falling into them. The old record books of the Volcano House are mutilated, perhaps robbed of their best, but enough remains to tempt the leisure of a rainy afternoon. O o o o o o o o o o o o ? o o o o o o o o o o o o o o HOUSE. the furtive searcher for autographs, pen-knife in hand, has been feloniously attracted; and one finds square holes in leaves from which a famous name na Deen cut ana besides, whole leaves are missing which contained, not only iamous names perhaps, but the draw7 ings and water-color sketches of true artists. 1 he contribution of Mark Twain was long ago pilfered; bat be fore it went it had been copied and a copy now appears in the book, one which the author himself has verified. Speaking of Mark Twain, the record book for 1866 contains his Hawaiian let ters to the Sacramento Union, the ones he afterwards revised for "Roughing It." The original text of comments which were afterwards put into the fa miliar book appears there, including a short chapter on the late Chief Justice Harris for whom the writer had a scowling aversion. The first Lord Bish op of Honolulu (Staley) also got an oc casional sting from Mark's penpoint, for it was His Lordship's kindly way to tell how vastly the natives had de teriorated since the American mission aries came and it was Mark's patriotic privilege to call him to account The Sacramento letters show that, on the whole, the young correspondent quite caught the commercial spirit oC ! Honolulu and predicted great things or the place though he confessed to a doubt that the projected trans-Pacific-. leviatnan, the 5000 ton Ajax, could en ter the port. The book of the eighties still contains; some autographic treasures, the names of Avellan and Alexieff among the rest. These now noted men were naval cap tains then of the warships Africa and: Vestnik. Crown Prince Oscar of Swe den and Norway is registered in a modest way, his name looking Insig nificant beside the sprawling entry' of "Colonel Curtis Piehu Iaukea. His Ma jesty's Personal Aide-de-Camp, in At tendance UPOn hiS RnV.il Hirhno 1 Prince Oscar of Sweden and Norway.'' j On this page is the Russian entry in j the record book, as reproduced by tho Advertiser s art staff. MARK TWAIN'S- TRIBUTE. And here is the text of Mark Twain's entry, the title being his Strang Dream: All day long I have sat apart an2 pondered over the mysterious occur rences of last night. There is no linkt lacking in the chain of incidents ray memory presents each in its proper or der with perfect distinctness, but still However, never mind these reflections; I will drop them and proceed to make a simple statement of the facts. Towards eleven o'clock it was sug gested that the character of the night was peculiarly suited to viewing the mightiest active volcano on the earth's surrace in its most impressive sub- limity. There was no light of moon. 01 "X, , star in the inky heavens to mar t eneet 01 tne craters gorgeous pyr technics. In due time I stood with my com panion on the wall of the cauldron which the natives, ages ago, named Halemaumau, the abyss wherein they were wont to throw the remains of their chiefs to the end that no vulgar feet might ever tread above them. We stood there, at dead of night, iu mile above the level of the sea andi looked down a thousand feet upon a boiling, surging, roaring ocean of fire; shaded our eyes from the blinding glare and gazed far away over the crimson waves with a vague notlon that a supernatural fleet, manned by demons and freighted by the damned, might presently sail up out of the re mote distance, started when tremen dous thunder-bursts shook the earths, and followed with fascinated eyes the grand jets of molten lava that sprang high up toward the zenith and explod ed in a world of fiery spray that lit up the somber heavens with an infernafc splendor. "What is your little bonfire of Vesu vius to this?" My ejaculation roused my companion' from his reverie and we fell into a con versation appropriate to the occasion and the surroundings. "We came at J last to speak of the ancient custom J of casting the bodies of dead chieftains; into tnis iearrui caldron, ana my com panion, who is of the blood royal, men tioned that the founder of his race, old King Kamehameha the First, that? vincible old pagan Alexander htiX. found other sepulture than the burningr depths of the "Halaemaumau." I grew interested at once. I knew that the mystery of what became of the corpse of the Warrior King had never been fathomed. I was aware that there was a legend connected with this mat ter and I felt as if there could be no more fitting time to listen to it thar the present. The descendant of the Kamehameha said: "The dead King was brought in royat state down the long, winding road that descends from the rim of the crater to the scorched and chasm-riven plain? that lies between the Halemaumau and; those butting walls yonder in the dis tance. The guards were set and the troops of mourners began the wieni' wail for the departed. In the middle of the night came the sound of in numerable voices in the air and the rush of invisible wings, the funeraF torches wavered, burned blue and went out! "The mourners and watchers fell to the ground paralyzed with fear and many minutes elapsed before any one dared to move or speak for they be lieved that the phantom messengers of the dread Goddess of Fire had been iia their midst. "When at last the torch was lighted the bier was vacant the dead mon arch had been spirited away! Con sternation seize'd upon all and they fled out of the crater! When the day dawned the multitude returned and be gan the search for the corpse. But not a footprint, not a sign was ever found. Day after day the search was continu ed and every cave in the great wallf and every chasm in the plain for miles around was examined but to no pur pose; and from that day to this the resting place of the lion King's bone i is an unsolved mystery. But years? j afterwards when the grim prophetess, j Waiahowakamaka lay on her deathbed 1 the Goddess Pele appeared to her ini a vision and told her that eventually j the secret would be revealed and in a remarkable manner but not until th? j great Kauhuhu, the Shark God. should1 ! desert the sacred cavern Ana Puhi. in I the island of Molokal and the waters : of the sea should no more enter it and its floors should become dry. "Ever since that time the simple, con fiding natives have watched for tho sign. And now after many and many j a summer has come and gone and they j who were in the flower of outh then 1 have waxed old and died, the day is j at hand! The great Shark God has de serted the Ana Puhi. A month ago, for the first time within the records of the ancient legends the sc-a has ceased to flow into the cavern and its stony pavement has become dry. As you may easily believe, the news of this great event spread like wild fire through the islands and now the natives are look ing every hour for the miracle which Is to unveil the mystery and reveal the secret grave of the dead hero." After I had gone to bed. I got to thinking of the volanic magnificence we had ' witnessed and could not get to sleep. I hunted up a book and con cluded I would pass the tim in read ing. The first chapter I came upon related several instances of remarkable revelations made to men through the J agency of dreams, of roads and houses. trees, fences and all manner 01 land marks shown in visions and recognized afterward in waking and which served to point the way to some dark rays-