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THE SUNDAY ADVERTISER, OCTOBER 16, 1910.
JUST TURN THE FAUCET a $nd enjoy IN EXHAUST LrLp supply of flfl i r ww da fc f,rr J : t ' l , U A t ft .1 hi i a J -. 4 ' tit; . ,f; mm 'it I.IU.HTll GLIMPSES OF AN EMPRESS Ex-Empress Eugenie was in Pari3 apain the other day. On her visits sh? always stops at the rather noisy Hotel Continental, in order to have a view "of the Tuilerk-s, where she reigned for more than twenty-five years. For hours she stares out of the window, they say, thinking of past glories. But a servant of the faded old woman has given this the lie direct. "Mais non! Never in the world," said the attendant. "Empress Eugenie never sits and stares out of the window overlooking the glories of days gone 'by. She stops at the Hotel Continental because she likes it. It is airy, and sentiment has nothing to do 'with the choice of a hotel. "She's not sentimental not a bit! She's very gay, on the contrary. I mean she is just like anybody else. She's getting old, of course she's eighty-four now and naturally she doesn 't go out much, but she entertains all the same. She has many intimate friends, and they visit her frequently. She is pleasant to work for. Royalty is just the same as we are, up and down. Some royal personages are liard to -work for, but I can not say that Empress Eugenie is of them. "Is she generous? Yes. She gives a lot of money to charity; much more than people ever suspect. You know, you can never tell about royalty. Among servants, Emperor William is said to be close. Now, it's hard to say whether that is the Emperor's fauit, or whether it is due to his interme 1 diaries. Kings and queens never nego tiate directly with landlords, nor do they themselves ever tip servants. Everything; has to pass through two or three persons, and each one wants to keep as much as possible for himself. "When every one has taken his share, there is often little left for those who should have had it all. Besides, royal persons are sometimes poor." j "How about the Empress?" "Ah, she '3 rich. Where the money came from? Her family was rich, I think. And then, would one be on the throne of Franee twenty-five years for nothing? She travels most of the time. This year we've been cruising in the Mediterranean. The Empress is inter ested in everything that is going on. Bhe lives simply. No, she doesn't get np earlv. She gets up when she feels like it." The door at the other end of the hall opened while the servant was talking nd the ex-Empress appeared, a bent, old woman. A long black cape covered her dress. A rather large flat black hat, hung with a black veil, framed her pale wrinkled features. She opened her eyes wide dark, wonderful eyes, although they seemed tired and hesitat ing where one imagined they were im petuous and commanding before. But the extraordinary eyebrows were there yet thick, heavy ones, almost forming two black circles in her pale, white face. She looked at the interviewer timidly, worrying, it seemed, lest some thing might happen to ber. But, trained to self-control, she said nothing and passed silently. One would not have imagined that the timid, shadow-like figure was the once-glorious Eugenie. soft water made from cereals should be employed once a day. A cupful of rice or hominy or barley may be put into a quart of cold water and slowly brought to the boiling point. . It should simmer slowly for iit'teen or twenty minutes, when it stands on the back of the stove rntil the kettle is cool, and the liquid is strained. To a pint of the liquid, when cold, a tablespoonful of tincture of benzoin may be added, and one has a wash which is not only cleansing, but contains nourishing starch and gluten. Cereal water should be prepared every three days or every other day, for it will not keep well long. A very soft cloth is wet in the prepa ration and the throat is mopped and very lightly rubbed. That coating is allowed to dry on and the washing is repeated. When the second coating has dried on, the skin is gone over with rose water, which will remove the stick iness. This done, powder may be ap plied. The best results from the treatment will be had if it is done morning and night regularly. BUTTONS. Fearl buttons lead in favor as trim mings and for practical use in the fall styles. They arc in white, black, mother-of-pearl and dyed shades. Most of these buttons are very large, nearly all in eighteen and twenty line sizes. Demiglobe and cup shapes are seen, with false eves or black-rimmed eyelets. Often the artificial ivory buttons are dyed in two colors, or in black and a color. Metal buttons, like metal passemen teries, are largely Byzantine in effect. Bull brown, antique gold and silver and hammered copper are some (if the ef fects shown, usually in shell pattern. l:iss and enamelfd buttons show ani mal figures polar hears, wolves, dog, etc. mounted in silver. These are es pecially designed for fur coats. A few poreehiiu buttons are also shown, paint ed in Kgyptian patterns. Amuiig novelties, pendants, in imita tiuiiv of jfve's, and small black and red g!as 1'iit'oiis are offered. AVOID TIGHT COLLARS. The quality of water that a woman uses for bathing purposes has some thing t'. do with tle condition of her throat, but inure than any other one thirii: to cause st rir.ginos is a collar vvhi.-ii is t.o tight. In ti.e-e .lavs, when liner; eoMar-. Mitf and high, are worn n iicii ot tj,( time, ail sorts t safe-pi.ir-i must be taken to overcome the fli-ct th.y wiii have on muscles. When he bandage that is w hat the lirieti :im-.:.nt to is el,.t fitting, mns. les are a ra! v.'jmJ, alii xho tissues are no; prop erly f.-d. for circulation is impeded". Much of this may be prevented bv wearing a collar hajf an inch larger than is actually required. The differ ence in size will not be apparent in irt'eet. but its n'-tion on the throat will not he so harmful. Soft water must be used alwavs. and as borax and soda, valuable 'tnoug'.i they are. mav be too drvin" to t:u-- HOW QUEENS BEAT KINGS. A remarkable feature about the phys iques of reigning European monarchs is that they are nearly all shorter than their consorts. King George V. is sev eral inches shorter than Queen Mary. The German Empress is a trifle taller than the Kaiser, who insists on the Em press sitting down when they are pho tographed together. Czar Nicholas II. looks quite small by the side of the Czarina. Alfonso of Spain is a head shorter than Queen Victoria Eugenie, and the King of Italy hardly reaches to the shoulder of Queen Helene. The Queen of Denmark, too, is a good deal taller than her husband. Exceptions to the rule are the King of Xorway and the new King of the Belgians. The lat ter is six feet two inches in height and the tallest king in Europe. COIFFURE FASHIONS. Just as much false hair is being worn as ever. However, it is differently ar ranged, the two objects aimed at being a youthful appearance and a fluffiness to replace the stiffness so prevalent in the expiring styles. The hair is frequently parted, and the crown of the head surmounted with innumerable curls, which fall in ring let fashion over the sides of the head and the ears. The turban has gone out. and when the coronet braid is used at all, it is piled higher on the head and is more tightly bound. Short fringes and bangs are stjll often seen, though this is a style for the .woman with a low forehead to be ware of. The net is entirely dispensed with and the coiffure is built up in tiers, so to speak. That is, there will be a flat twist, a ribbon or metal bandeau and a loose plait, the rown piece being omitted. Some women, especially of the young er Parisian set, are even having their hair cut fairly short and curling jt all over the head in little, babylike ring lets. Although, as I have said, the pdain turban has gone out. exaggerated mod ifications of this style are much seen, combined with tulle, metal and passe menterie bandeaux and wreaths of rose buds. Puffs are chiefly at the side, with back braid effects, or in coiffures of the empire stvle. LACE HEADPIECE. One of the features of the hats for formal wear is the round piece of lace that is attached to the inside of a large shape just as a bandeau is used. It falls in soft folds over the hair and looks quite like the lacy edge of save the mark! a breakfast cap. But you have no idea of the beeomingness of this innovation. Pretty features appear more lovely under the softening halo of tulle or lace, and other faces are vastly improved by the medium be tween them and the felt or satin crown of a large hat. Black, white or metallic lace is used for this friil that is arousing comment. Tiny rosebuds of narrow ribbon or small silk flowers are winked into the lace, lessening the contrast and harmonizing with the plumes or lace trimming on the outside of the chapeau. The ruffle ;s about two inches v, ide. It is attach ed before the lining is adjusted, al though a few m;ll:ners have arranged for a ehu nge of lncc frills by a series of loops and buttons. How did 'his originate? Why. prob ably fro'ii the fur.ev t urban headdress of lace trimmed with flowers that Pari sionnes v.or. in the summer in ev-n-ings. At all events, sustained by the knowledge that a hat with this inm-r fi".!l was awarded first prize at the gr.'a- exhibition r,f chapeanx. it come as something new and bids fa;r to be adopted. A FLAG SALUTE FOR WOMEN. Xow that the school season is with us again, a question that school teach ers have long desired a national ruling upon can be discussed appropriately, says the Philadelphia Kecord. Th? question is, "How should women salute ihe flag?" It is not possible for a woman to remove her hat as the flag passes in the street, as a man does. What. then, should she do to show her reverence for the colors, and how should the girls of our schools and colleges be taught to salute the national emblem, so that the American woman of the future may have a uniform method of saluting the flag? Opinions of those who have been consulted differ mate rially concerning the correct way a woman should give some outward and visible sign of her patriotism when th"? flag passes. For instance. General Miles does not agree with some that the military salute would be suitable for women. He ad vocates the placing of the right hand across the breast, with the middle finger directed toward the point of the left shoulder, the head at the same time be ing partly lowered. Another distinguished soldier. General Chaffee, suggests that the most grace ful and effective manner of saluting the flag, when a number of women or girls are gathered together, is for the girl to draw a handkerchief from 'her belt or other receptacle and hold it pendant from the hand horizontally or upward at an angle of forty-five degrees. General Grant would have a more simple salute. The mere bowing of the head, he thinks, would be enough. Admiral Schley thinks a more elabo rate salute appropriate. The admiral would like the mothers and daughters of the land to place the right hand over the heart when saluting the flag and bow the head reverently at the same time. Admiral Dewey would have no other salute for men and women than the raising of the hand to the forehead and then dropping the hand, the grace ful and effective salute in use among army and navy men the world over. Admiral Evans thinks the military sa lute the right thing, too, but rises to remark that the courtesy of the foreign women as the sovereign passes strikes him as a most pleasing way to show re spect, and he suggests this as an 'alter native to the military salute. The consensus of opinion among many consulted on this subject is in favor of the military salute. A TENDER SUBJECT. "How ,s your garden gettin.-alnn -? " 'Whv do you ask that q-;e 'on ? ' ' demanded the suburbanite suspi-io'islv. "Merely out of polit'-nos. ' ' "1 see. I tl-o'ig::t mn vbe I had pro m :1'd v-m- -o-. ... ve;o-ta!'o'S. if.Kton '"'hropbde. MAN'S ANCESTORS. Startling development of the Dar winian theory is contributed by Dr. F. ! Melchers, the German biologist, in th j Zeitgeist. I Instead of descent from a single race I of apes, Melchers propounds the theory i that mankind is really divided into four I great race groups, each of which is ! descended from one of the four raca ; groups of anthropoid apes. Eepresenta- fives of these four are to be found in existing gorillas, chimpanzees, ourangs and gibbon apes. j From the gorilla type of ape are 1 descended, according to Melchers, what j he calls the West Congo Guinea-Soudan negro, the Bantus and Zulus, and also I the fair-haired and red-haired northern ! races, including the Finns; from the j chimpanzee apes are descended northern j Africans and southern Europeans; the ' ourang-outang is the ancestor of the . Tasmanians, Australians and short i headed South Germans, while Mongo ! lians. Malays. Polynesians and Siberians ; come from fhe gibbon ape. ! NEW UNDERWEAR. The narrow skirts now in demand necessitate a further narrowing of underwear to conform to the new lines. Drawers, of course, come under this heading, and various ingenious methods have been devised to narrow them. They are made, for instance, on a yoke top, with wide, lace-trimmed leg. Again, they open on the side, being edged with wide lace and fastened at the side of the leg with ribbons or buttons. And some are made with a knickerbocker band that fastens below the knee and is finished with a ruffle, or are fitted with tucked tops. Altogether, the underwear one buys this fall should Vie purchased with an eve to its possibilities in connection with the empire gown. . MODERN STRATEGY. "Io von think airships could be used effectively in warfare?"' "They might,'" replied the skeptical person, "if we could provide the air ships and induce the enemy to go up in them. ' ' Washington Star. - . DIRECTIONS WANTED. In a time of distressing drought a Larased amateur agriculturist stept into a shop to buy a barometer. The -h.ipman was giving a few stereotyped instructions about .indications and pres sures, when the purchaser impatiently interrupted him. "Yes, yes," said he, "that's ail right, but what I want 'o know ;s. how do vmi set the thing when you want it to rain?" Yorkshire Post. .- , A KNOWING SEXTON. Economy is the watehword at Rush vp'e. The sexton of the city cemetery !ais.,j enough oats in the graveyard tins year to keep the Are team in feed for ne e I! ure viiuer. lau.'ia, i.i., i,eg;s- v The Ruud Automatic Gas Water-Heater is different essentially better than all other water-heaters. The difference is a pronounced betterment in hot water service. Imagine for a minute an ideal hot water service--wouldn't it begin and end at the faucet? The RUUD Automatic Gas Water-Heater has done just this, it has reduced the hot water problem to a turn of the faucet it's as easy to get steaming hot water now as cold water yon don't go near the Ruud itself you don't have to strike even a match. The Ruud differs from ordinary water-heaters in efficiency it is independent of the kitchen range a luxury in summer time stands in your basement self -operating and safe. Finally, there's a difference in the hot water never "lukewarm," but always heated to a fixed temperature predetermined by yourself and the water is fresh, taken clear and cold from the water mains and heated instantly as it flows. The initial cost of the Ruud is the final cost ' so moderate that you cannot afford to buy a cheaper water-heater or to put up longer with the vexa tions of the old one. Study this mechanical masterpiece at close range. Investigate NOW. HONOLULU GAS CO., LTD ALAKEA AND'BERETANIA STREETS. TELEPHONE 2322. TOE OLIVE To Your Taste WO-OOTE The greatest Care is ex ercised in the cultiva tion, picking and pack ing of these olives and they reach your table with the true olive taste and without the toughness of the usual bottled olive. LABEL OLDVE YOUR GROCER MAS T H EM t BEST CLEANER AND DYER U. TOGAWA Fort St. opp. Convent. Founder of original Eagle Dyeing and Cleaning Works. AN OUNCE OF PREVENTIVE. if you want to top your hair from f failing an.l restore it to its youthful appearance, you must use i PACIEECO'S DANDRUFF KILLER. Sold by All Druggists. WE MAKE AND BET AIL FURNDTURE AND SELL ON EASY TEEMS. HEADQUARTERS FOR BEDDING AND WIRE MATTRESSES. Honolulu Wire Bed Go.. Ltd. Comer King and Alakea Streets. 1 1 r