The Honolulu republican. [volume], April 21, 1901, Part II, Page TWELVE, Image 12

About The Honolulu republican. [volume] (Honolulu, T.H.) 1900-1902

Image provided by: University of Hawaii at Manoa; Honolulu, HI

                
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TWECVE
loose meshed lace, and again this
spring that pretty fashion has come to
the fore.
I saw a high-throated, long-sleeved
dinner gown the other day which fully
illustrates the latest phase of lace and
A lirJpht rnsp tin harrv taffeta
of solid color edged with bands off
black chenille formed the deep flounce
of the skirt, while the waist and top
of the skirt were made of taffeta of
the same quality but gayly figured in
closely massed daringly yellow flowers
with dashes of green foliage.
All this strong color, however, was
softend by a veil of cream lace dropped
over the flowered surface and
tacked so firmly to it by Invisible
stitches that the lace almost appeared
to be woven with it
Imagine how beautiful and effective
all this was! And when you see it
carried off by a dashing brunette you
will turn green with envy.
Since the dressmakers and their patrons
continue to cling to the serpentine
mode in gown building, the manufacturers
have brought out nothing
but sqft finished evening materials.
They have introduced a satin chiffon
that promises to enjoy a vogue equal
to that of panne. As its name implies,
it is as soft as chiffon, and as bright,
rich and desirable as satin itself. From
satin de lyon and satin duchesse, from
pau de sole and peau de cygne, every
bit of the dressing and close weaving
that makes for stiffness has been left
out. and panne itself has been reduced
in weight to meet the requirements
for the prevailing mode for soft
draping goods. As to the make-up
of these pliant materials, every dressmaker
leaves It to her patron to
choose between a design for an evening
gown with or without an oversklrt.
If the choice is for an overdress then
the garment must bo of chiffon, or liberty
silk, draped tunlcwise, bordered
with lace, or more sweetly still, edged
with shirrings and tiny puffed frills,
in which at intervals knots of rosebuds
and baby leaves are nestled.
Directly in front or oh one hip, the
tunic is slit open from hem to waist
Mne, and full gathered or drawn fiat
over the hips and back.
Just how this Roman tunic should
be draped is left to the choice of the
patron and the taste oft he dress-Baker.
Bull red is the shade for spring and
saamer wear, and a rery pretty shoulder
strap is made of dnl! red roses cm
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one shoulder and a string of Parisian
pearls on the other. This Is a decided
change from tne eternal band of velvet
or lace:
Color may come and co, but the
Iblack gown remains forever. Black
toilets garnished with spangles and
gilt have had their day, and we have
gone back to the black, unrelieved by
any decoration save a little lace and
a dull red rose or the moss rosebuds.
No woman who has been a guest
at any one of the great country
houses glorifying the face of our no-
We. land will fail to appreciate the
charms and usefulness of the coffee
jacket It has no relation to the historic
and debatable; tea gown, because
it is worn at a wholly different
function from that at which the teai
robe properly makes its appearance.
In the morning at country houses
it is the commendable custom to send
to the rooms of the quests silver
trays set with small, individual silver
coffee equipages. A slice or two
of toast, a dry biscut and an orange
accompanies, as a rule, each tray, and
as the maid brings in the little
spread the guest arrays herself, in
a very fetching and fanciful silk petticoat
a pair of quilted satin lounging
shoes and a coffee jacket of gay
material and gracious pattern. It is
the sociable custom, moreover, in
country houses for the jack
eted coffee drinkers .together, with
their trays and gossip, In some cozy
boudoir, and because of this custom
the jackets of the coffee lovers have
grown in style and splendor.
These garments are ordinarily well
open in the throat but
and easy of fit Upon these general
lines the taste of the individual jacket
wearer plays Infinite variations.
Three instructive examples are
given. The 'first is a .pretty belted
jacket of pale yellow satin surfaced
foulard, adorned -with a shoulder
band- and cincture of golden brown
panne ribbon, which in turn is held
in place by big buttons of paste topaz.
Mechlin lace and yellow chiffon
hare tne otner materials nsea. a
worthy companion to this is the flow-in?
jacket of pastel pink liberty sat-hi,
garnished'with yoke and sleeves
and broad revers or imitation tea
tinted Irish lace. A broad satin ribbon
of a tint that exactly matches
the lace passes under the revers and
knots in front
Of very pliant silk warp French
flannel, lichen grey in. color, the third
garment is constructed. Inside a
lining of baby blue, Florentine silk
is used, and undersleeves and a jabot
of coarse grey Malta lace form
its simple and effective decoration.
For next saauaer the originators of
delicate' confections are making soft
H02C0L0LU REPUBnCAK, SUNDAY, APRIE if, J901.
IMPORTATIONS.
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cream bastiste coffee jackets, frilled
elaborately with Valenciennes edging;
and cooler still will be the negligees
of glace china silk, buttonholed
in scallqps along the edges and completed
.with undersleeves of tucked
white silk muslin.
For lack of something more original
in the composition of spring
gowns the dressmakers cling valiantly
to the undersleeve, and invent
variations on the cuff and puff that
do credit to their ingenuity.
When it is a question of an afternoon
gown, the insistencee is in favor
of a covering for the arms ending
just below the angle of the elbow,
and finished with a puff and frill, or
a puff only, for this arrangement,
supplemented by glace kid gloves,
wrinkling from elbow down to wrist
enjoyed Parisian approval throughout
last winter. Muslins nd soft
flowered silks are adapted to these
coquettish designs very easi for
there is coquetry In the elbow sleeve,
when the wrist and forearm that its
brevity reveals are round and white
and delicately tapering. It is this
elbow sleeve that is bringing back the
bangle, broad bracelet and back velvet
wrist strap that fastens with a
jeweled brooch or a tiny pearl encircled
miniatare.
If a woman feels that the contour
of her elbow and the size of her
wrist bone had better be left to conjecture,
she will find an ideal asylum
for ugly arms in tEe dressy sleeves
that pouch at the wrist, like" those of
a bishop's robe. The great value of.
this long sleeve, with the puffed annex.
is that It not only hides t&e
shortcomings of an arm that is grossly
fat or pathetically thin, but it can
be so adjusted as to make overlong
or absurdly short arms appear to be
exactly the correct length. If a woman.
Is as extensive of limb as the
red MacGregor and also knows when
to take advantage of an opportunity,
she will choose a sleeve pattern that
demands the use of dress goods to
the elbow only; there a flaring cuff
will be turned back and from below
one long puffs or series of puffs or a
wide ruffled poS will extend to the
wrist band. On the other hand, the
short armed woman, being wise m
her generation, fixes on a sleeve fitting
straight not only to the wrist,
but on the outside seam running
to a long point on the level of the
knuckles. To aire tne. requisite finish
this sleeve' widens gracefully at
the base and Is .filled with lace or
chiffon puffs, or a recticule top cuff.
of flowered silk that echoes the colorings
la the 'decorations of the gown.
While the drcMiters, take th
undersleeves so serioasly. the tailors
have all W excladed it, from their
code of iecoraUoB. A rtralght arm
finds
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Fashions
WISH some hostess would invent
I something besides those everlasting
teas and receptions for the entertainment
of her guests. From
one tea to another we are rushed with
endless monotony, and the usual card
party is almost as bad, no matter how
charming the hostess. Unless one has
a love for cards, the whole tiling Is a
bore prizes to the contrary notwithstanding.
I know a woman who actually
revels in the numerous prizes obtained
at card parties, and boasfts
fondly of her many trophies. Of course
all this is harmless enough, but what
a bore for most women! And there
are even some who mourn and mourn
like that everlasting dove in the song,
whenever card- parties are in full
swing.
There seems to bo some effort to
make dinners origlna and attractive,
at least. Some noble souls are trying
their best to introduce costume dinners.
May they succeed and become
an oasis in the desert to the constant
entertainer.
J J
It still requires a high pressure corset,
hot baths and pickle diet to keep
fitout women down to the proportions
requisite for a proper display of the
newest evening finery. Never before
has fat been more fatal to style and
grace in. dress; gowns manufactured
on both sides of the Atlantic are no
fuller at the hips, no shorter at the
waist, and no wider at the knees than
we hate worn for the past two years.
Perhaps for morning and afternoonj
toilets there is a trifle more In
breadth and flare near the hem than
of yore, but in the mode of the bodice.
and even In the goods one uses, one-must
wander far afield to find a novelty.
A pretty show Is undeniably being
made of tho posy silks that are said
to be a revival of a fashion dating
from Queen Alexndra's girlhood. The
description applies only to those soft
evening foulards and taffetas that are
worked In close set bouquets or lit
tie round Watte&u wreaths that often
are as brilliantly colored as the nose-J
gay on an old-fashioned Wedgwood
(plate.
'ie posy silks are designed for the
- debutantes especially, and should be
worn -Kith shoulder knots and trailing
garlands of flowers that will exactly
match those printed on. the silk.
'Tjro seasons ago woaea were wear-lag'
flowered silks encrusted with very
a weed.
known
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and Society
covering cut off evenly around the
wrist Is the ideal for the plain cloth-dress,
and evidently will remain so
for some time to come, though tailors
of more liberal views will consent
to build black taffeta coats with
satin lined trumpet shaped sleeves;
inside which a 'close buttoned cuff
takes the wrist snugly and runs up
nearly to the-elbow. When a customer
has a mind of her own, Tind
chooses to insist, the most
of the creators of cloth suits
will yield sufficiently to give her a
smart walking sleeve, tucked in horizontal
lines from the shoulder to
within a few inches of the wristband;
the band is then made of gold
silk, overlaid with lace or embroidered
passementerie and fastened
with a handsome buckle or two
small bright buttons. On the new
chambray and pique shirt waists the
undersleeve effect is arrived at by
cutting the sleeve on a pattern that
pounches broaaiy from the elbow
down, turning back a tucked and
hemstitched cuff ate the( joint of the
arm. and finishing at' the wrist with
a stitched and buttoned strap of the
goods.
& S
Miss Mabel Waity was married to
Mr. Maurice Brasch at the Central
Union Church on Tuesday evening.
the Rev. William KIncald performing
the ceremony. The church was one
mass of sweet blossoms. The six ushers
were Mr. Robert Shingle, Mr. Oliver
Carter, Mr. Tarn McGrew, Mr. J.
H. Cockburn, Mr F. W. Klebahn and
Mr. E. T. Grady. Miss Lilian Walty
and Master Douglas Damon carried
the bride's bouquet of roses. Miss
May Damon was maid of honor. "O
Promise Me" Teas played most sweetly
and added much to the impressiveness
of the occasion. The Wedding March
from Lohengrin concluded the
and the pathway of4he bride
and groom was. strewed with roses by
Miss Waity and"Master Damon. The
bride was exquisitely dressed in white
silk, the bridal veil being caught with
orange blossoms.' Miss May Damon in
green gauze over blue silk was most
effective. Mrs. Waity wore pale gray
taffeta. A reception was held at the
f Waity residence after the wedding.
The house and lanai were prettily decorated
and; an orchestra was stationed
on the lanai and .discoursed sweet music.
The honeymoon will be spent at
Waialua. .
Mrs. Clifford Wood gave a large
card party on Thursday afternoon. The
house was beautifully decorated and
dainty refreshments were nagged' after
the ejwfcre. Arnc
those present were Mrs! F. M. Swamzy.
Mrs. 3. MBa. Mrs.Bwr4 Simon,
TtiirBiri&fiWfc. 'IFflUMii "WIH-
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er, Mrs. Estee, Mrs. Decring. Mrs.
Wilder, Mrs. J. R. Walker Mrs. A.
G. Hawes, Jr.; Mrs. Mary Gunn, Mrs.
George Davies, Mrs. Andrews, Mrs.
Fuller, Mrs. Ballou, Mrs. Humphreys,
Mrs. Jones, Mrs. McGrew. Mrsv oilman,
Mrs. Widdifield, the Misses
Miss Jessie Kaufman, Miss
Florence Russell, the Misses Sfeott,
Mrs. Scott, Mrs. Hoffman, Mrs. Lufkin.
Miss Paris, Mrs. Taylor and many others.
. J
Prince David with several friends
accompanied the Mariposa as far as
the buoy, in order to say aloha once
again to the departing Campbell family.
The many friends of the Campbells
regret their absence most keenly.
Miss Chrystal, a sweet and charming
young woman, made many friends during
her visit in Honolulu. Miss A.
Campbell and Miss Chrystal were at
school together in California.
J J
The San Francisco News Letter
says that "Mrs. Mllly Ashe Sewall's
friends are congratulating themselves
that she will be so near them this summer.
The Sewalls have taken a cottage
at San Rafael for the season,
which it is safe to assume will be the
locale of many pleasant gatherings of
'which she will be the moving spirit"
Mr. Barbour Lathrop, that bird of
passage, vrites enthusiastically of the
pleasant souvenirs he retains of Honolulu's
hospitality. He will probably
returnjiext year, and Honolulu will
again have her fill of dance and song,
for this man above, all others understands
the art of amusing himself as
well as his friends.
Mr. Addison Mlzner has painted
some stunning menu .cards.. The different
heads are really works of art
particularly the one which resembles
a certain fair matron, it was quite
funny to note the eagerness with
which they were pocketed tit a certain
dinner not long since.
Governor andMrs. Dole are enjoying
the sea breezes at Sans Soucl for
a few weeks. Mr. and Mrs. A. G.
Hawes. Jrs, are at the Governor's Era-ma
street residence 'during his absence,
afterward returning to Sans
Soucl. The Governor is taking a much
needed rest
J JS
It seems quite natural to see Tarn
McGrew aboat the town, once more.
Tarn was royally entertained while In
San Francisco, bat nevertheless is
glad to get' hack. Mrs.OfcGrew is
looking well, and her health, I believe,
Is irmly established.
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. Mrs. F. M. Swaacy fare, a; luncheon
Taeaday in fceaer of Mrs. Mass. Her
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guests were Mrs. Hatch, Mrs. Castle,
Mrs. White. Miss Kaufmap, Miss Rns
sell. Mrs. Walbridge, Mrs. Maus. ...rs
Cross. Mrs. Davies. Mrs. Hawes. Jr
V
and Mrs. Gault.
Prince David gave a most charming
picnic last Saturday for the Missen
Campbell and their guest Miss Chrystal
Mrs. v,ampvell and her daughters
will make an extended tour of Europe
during their absence from Honolulu.
Mr. and Mrs.. Harold Mott-Smith en
tertained at dinner Wednesday even
ing. The table was artistically Jecor
aied and the occasion a most enjoy
able one. Mrs. Alan White sang beau
tifully during the evening.
Mrs. Elizabeth K. Wllder's Waikikl
residence was the seat of much mer
riment and fun last Sunday. About
eighteen persons were invited by Mr
and Mrs. Gerrit Wilder to a luncheon
and bathing party.
Miss Edna Gunn has gone to the
coast to be absent 'for some time. She
will probably visit friends in Oakland.
Her charming mother, Sirs. Mary
Gunn, will remain in Honolulu for
-some time yet v
Mrs. James B. Castle intends to
spend the summer months at Olinda.
Kainalu will not be ready for occupancy
until fall, owing to the
of furniture.
ilr. and Mrs. Hatch entertained
Lieutenant ami Mrs. Ladd at Jinner
at the Grill last week. Lieutenant and
Mrs. Ladd are on their way to Manila..
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Mrs. George Davies Is entertaining
Miss Reynolds, the secretary of the
World's Committee. Young Women's
Christian Association.
J &
Mrs. Alnsworth, who has bften.
spending a few weeks in Honolulu,
will depart this week Wednesday for
Australia.
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Mrs. William G. Irwin is expected
this week. 'Mrs. Irwin, they say, is
handsomer than ever.
Mr. Theodore Wores, the noted San
Francisco artist. Is ia Honolulu for
about six months.
Mrs. James Tucker, wife of the popular
"Jlnmle" Tucker, Is at the Hawaiian
Hotel.
Invitations are oat foy a card party
oa Wednesday at, Mrs. Lowrte's.
J &
Mrs. Charles Cooper is at the Law-era
place at Waikikl for a few weeks.
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