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Fashion What the Smartest Dressmakers Are Now Displaying Hints That May Help the Undecided ture of the Paris summer sea PARIS.-The most notable fea son is the Russian ballet, at the Chatelet theater. We have now had five or six seasons of Russian ballets, here in Paris, but the novelty has not lost any of its charm; the Parisiennes seem, on the contrary, to become each year more and more enthusiastic about these wonderful dancers and their amazingly artistic surroundings. On the first night the Grand Duke Boris was present with a party of friends in a prominent box and, close by, the British embassy party,. with the young prince of Wales very much in evidence, writes Idalia de Villiers In the Boston Globe. In another large box Mme. Paul Bourget, the charming wife of the eminent writer, was enter taining a party, and on this occasion Mme. Bourget looked exceedingly at tractive in a clinging robe of moon light blue jet and a picturesque mantle of dull blue mirror velvet, lined with rushed chiffon. Diamonds Worn in the Coiffure. I noticed that a great many of our leading society women wore bands of diamonds in their hair on the open ing night of the Russian season. Flat bands, which closely resemble the Greek filet in outline, but which are worn rather far back on the head in stead of on the forehead. When these brilliant bands are worn the hair is pressed extremely simple and quite close to the bead; in fact; this may be said of almost all the best hairdressing of the present moment. It is now the fashion to show the out line of the head, and when a fringe is worn on the forehead it is more often than not short and almost straight. Curiously enough, I noticed one or two extremely pretty women wearing their hair quite short all over their heads on the opening night. This The Beautiful American at Mirabeau. fashion was very popular several years ago and it is a style which wom en of. small and pretty features find becoming, but it is a strong measure to cut one's hair quite short, and I am of opinion that the heads I saw at the Chatelet represented the eccentric ity of individual taste rather than the herald of a possible revival. A great many black and dark blue evening gowns were worn, and in all cases there toilets were covered with rich embroideries, which sparkled and glittered under the soft light of a thousand lamps. The keynote of our fashions of today, so far as evening gowns are concerned, is sparkle! It is the age of eclectic extravagance, but there are mo:cents when one feels in clined to gasp at the sight of embroid eries covered with diamond facets and with seed pearls massed together in reckless profusion. Never were jet embroideries more popular for eve ning dresses than this season and the rage of the moment is moonlight-jet which gives lovely metallic tints in a strong light. At the Mirabeau. The Hotel Mirabeau in the rue de la Paix is a favorite meeting place of the Parisiennes this season. It is a convenient place, for every one finds it necessary to pass through the Place Vendome and the rue de Ia l'aix some time in the afternoon of each day. The famous street of dressmakers rep resents Paris itself. It is en route for everywhere. At the Mirabeau I saw some rarely attractive gowns and hats and I have sketched for your benefit a picturesque toque and shoulder cape which was worn by a lovely American girl who sat It at the table next to ours, and who was amusing her friends with a vivacious account of her "im pressions" of Paris. She was quite young; not more than seventeen, I think, and she had the proverbial American comnplexioa of cream and ames roses. Her hair was light brown, -with no traoe of gold in it, and it was so amazingly glossy that one wondered whether its brilliant appearance was entirely due to the constant care of a clever maid or if some specially fine brilliantine had been cleverly intro duced. I am inclined to think that Na ture and the clever maid were re sponsible for those wonderful waves, for the girl was perfectly turned out, from head to foot. Fit Adornment for Lovely Head. The picturesque toque was made of fine Tuscan straw, and the shape was so supple that it molded itself round the lovely little head. The only trim ming was an exquisite gloire de Dijon rose, placed almost in front, but the foliage of this rose was of a rich brown tint, and so cleverly arranged that it gave an appearance of height to the side of the toque. The little man telet was made of old-rose silk, which had *a dull surface, and the hem stitched frills were in silk muslin in the same shade. These mantelets are the lastest rage of the ultra-ex clusive Parisiennes, and it is certain that the dainty little garment worn by the lovely "bud" had just come from the atelier of either Paquin or Doucet, for both these dressmakers are mak ing a specialty of them. The curious part of the matter was that the charming mantelet was worn over a perfectly plain and very clinging dress of black taffetas. It was a curious combination, especially for a young girl, but entirely successful. In the same party there was a pret ty fair girl who was dressed from head to foot in ivory white. As I looked at her and noticed the fact that she attracted universal attention, I felt more convinced than ever that the girl, or young married woman, who early decides on making a specialty of white costumes is exceedingly wise. It has long been realized that pure white costumes give better effects than any others at such fashionable resorts as Trouville, Biarritz and San Sebastian. But it is not everyone who realizes that pure white costumes are eminently suitable for afternoon wear during the Paris season. White silk finished linen, white shantung, fine white serge. To obtain really good ef fects great care must be taken to car ry out the white scheme in every de tail; white shoes and stockings, white gloves, pure white costume and ex quisitely fresh white blouse. With this spotless toilette, a large picture hat could be worn with the best re sults. Not Really Extravagant. I am aware that many women cher ish an idea that white costumes, care fully carried in every detail, are ex travagant. I do not deny that a cer ta'-, amount of money must necessar ily be set aside for the cleaner's bill and also for daily renewals of gloves, etc. But then, on the other hand, white costumes do not date them selves. The girl who is known to make a specialty of all white toilettes does not require a number of differ ent dresses, for each one looks very much like the other. What she needs is spotless purity in every detail, and absolute freshness. I have often gone into the subject with friends and have over and over again proved to them that a girl in smart society can hold her own even at such a fashionable place as Trouville with three or four white suits, provided always that she has in her possession an almost unlim ited supply of white gloves and sev eral pairs of beautifully made white shoes. The selection of hats which can be worn with white costumes is practically unlimited, but for the morning nothing looks better than a white straw trimmed with snow white wings. Lovely Summer Dresses. A lace gown, which was worn at the last Auteuil race meeting, when a heat wave was passing over Paris, was very picturesque in design and yet delightfully simple. The skirt was arranged in two deep flounces, a favor ite idea this season, and on each flounce there was a flat ruching of deep cherry colored taffetas to match the smart little coatee. The outline of this dress showed the gradual re turn to fuller skirts, but the lace flounces are so carefully shaped and arranged that they cling to the figure almost as closely as might a tightly gored skirt. A curious little coatee is a novelty of the moment. Paquin launched these quaint garments a few weeks ago, and since then they have rushed into popu lar favor. In shot silk and in plain colors, such as emerald green, raven's wing blue, cerise, etc., these coatees look very attractive when worn over lace dresses, as indicated in the sketch, or over tailored skirts of thin cloth or linen. In a simple costume suitable for morning or afternoon wear, the ma torial was striped linen in dull blue and white and the skirt was slightly draped to give a pannier effect. On the corsage there were bands of tA'le de jouy which showed an old-wou.id deoign . in blue, pink and gray on a white ground and the taffeta sash had dull blue lines on white. It was a very practical and comfortable cos tume; just the thing for an afternoon stroll in the Dlois, or for an excursion into the country. Unique Clock. A modern traveling clock shows the popular tendency to compression. It li as flat as an unfilled wallet and can easily be slipped in a handbag. One of the newest has the clock an eight-day affair, about the size of a man's watch-a barometer and ther mometer combined. Thus the traveler can not only tell the hour of day, but the probable weather she will have for her outings. In selecting one of these fiat travel ing clocks, make tuts of an eight-drv movement. TOO STRENUOUS A JOE MOSQUITO EXTERMINATOR HAl HAD ENOUGH. Recently Went Through Experlenc4 That It Must Be Admitted Was Calculated to Discourage Almost Any One. Charles F. Staedler, marshal of V'e rona, N. J., is also chief mosquito ex terminator of that city. It is his duty to hunt out the breeding places of the winged rapiers that made New Jersey famous and deluge their larvae with kerosone oil. The life of the chiel mosquito exterminator has been a tran quil one. But recently the foe of Jer sey's curse met with an experience that confines him to his bed under the care of a physician. The chief exterminator and his able assistant, Thomas Brennan, set out to visit some marshy land at the head of Verona lake. As the chief exterminaton stood upon a bog pouring oil upon the hatchery of a flock of mosquitoes his toot slipped and into the mire weni the marshal. Before Brennan could grasp him the chief exterminator had sunk to his arm pits. Brennan labored hard to pull his colleague from the bog, and, with a !rantic yank at his chief's coat collar, he, too, slipped and joined his compan con. The two struggled in the bog as did lunyan, but to no avail. Then, almost engulfed, they raised their voices and roared for aid. Little Hughlie Ervine heard the wild calls from the bog and saw two heads pro truding above the mire. Hughie tore several boards from a nearby fence and built a walk to the spot where the mosquito terrors lustily struggled fos freedob. But Hughie could do noth Ing'more, and the moments were pre cdous, for each convulsive effort only settled the mosquito catchers deepen in their miry prison. Hughie was dispatched for instant aid. He qualified for the Olympic team In his sprint up the road to David Slay' back's place. David set forth in his motor car with a long rope. Slayback, with Hughie's aid, drag ged Brennan from the bog. For al most two hours they labored, and Staedler was almost ready to close his eyes and murmur, "Farewell, proud world," when Slayback was strueb with a brilliant idea. He fastened one end of the rope under the chief ex terminator's arms. The other end was tossed over the branch of a nearby oak and then tied to the rear of the motor car. Slayback took his seat in the can and grasped the starting lever. Bren nan raised his hand and Slayback pul on full power ahead. It was a hard pull. The chief exterminator almosi was pulled apart, but up into the aif he finally shot and dangled twixt boi and blue sky, dripping ooze and words of anguish. As far as the chief exterminator in concerned, all the mosquitoes in Jer sey can go to blazes. He said so him self, only his verbiage was more stren uous. Not Ashamed of Cowardice. The idea that nothing is so disgrace ful as cowardice is one that is not held by all races. Among the Bedouins a sheik may be the leader of hii tribe only in peace. When there it war, the chances are that he will re linquish his leadership to the fightini sheik. "I have not the gift of courage,' once said an Arab chief to an Eng lishman, apologizing for not putting himself at the head of a band that h4 had sent to attack another tribe. The Englishman learned that thesq nomads esteem personal bravery as i gift, for the want of which a man ii no more to be censured than he is t( be blamed for not being handsome. A Bengali says, without the leas sense of shame, "I am timid." Yet hi will meet death, even when it ap proaches in the form of the hangman with the composure of a martyr.-Il lustrated Sunday Magazine. Would Not Consider Dishes. J. C. Stubbs, the Southern Pacifik official, hasn't a great deal of patienc4 with amateurs and those uninformed in the railroad game, and he is said to have told this story to illustrate thq "wisdom" of an incipient railroad magnate. When the stock holders of the Val ley railroad were meeting in 1893 ti plan the construction of the new line matters of detail were taken up amoni them, for even the smallest stool holder wanted a finger in the con struction pie. At one meeting a director who had to do with the engineering problems of construction asked, "How heavi shall the fish plates be?" A stock holder growled, "What an we bothering with the dining osy features for now? Let's go ahead ant build the road first." Not a Moral Objection. A dance hall manager who oouId never by any stretch of the imagine tion be accused of harboring aesthetjl convictions came out unequivocalli against the season's dances. "I am pleased to hear you take thi stand," said a reformer. "Leaving mq rality out of the questica, they are cei tainly ugly." "Oh, I wasn't thinking about that,' said the manager. "I'm dead s against them because it takes m room to dance them in. My hall, th will hold 250 couples for ord dancing, now accommodates only couples, and I lose all that maow CHAMBER OF SILENCE.. At the Physiological Institute of the University of Utrecht is a chamber about 73 feet square, which is said to be absolutely noiseless as far as the entrance of any sounds from out. side is concerned. This chamber is an inside room, but so arranged that it can be ventilated and inundated with sunshine. The walls, doors and ceiling each consist of half a dozen layers of different substances, with air spaces and interstices filled with sound deadening materials. Some persons when in the room experience a curious sensation in the ears. While every effort has been made to exclude sounds that are not wanted, of course, the object of constructing this singu lar room was to experiment with phe nomena connected with sound. Some of the sounds employed are made in the room itself; others are introduced from outside by means of a copper tube, which is plugged with lead when not in use. ELEPHANTINE TOOTH PULLING. When an elephant has an ulcer ated tooth the result, as can be readily imagined, is an elephantine toothache, and usually the only means of relief is the extraction of the of fending molar. The removal of a tooth from an elephant in Rio de Janeiro, recently took four mighty )ulls by 15 men on a stout rope which Four Mighty Pulls by Fifteen Men Were Required to Extract an Aching Tooth From the Jaw of the Elephant. was attached to the tooth by platinum wire. The beast willingly submitted itself to the preparations and gave no evidence of pain or anger until after the fourth pull, which dislodged the tooth.-Popular Mechanics. FREAK PLACES FOR NESTS. Many birds that are shy and retli Ing in other respects show very little fear of the creaking and groaning of heavy machinery, or the thunderous roar of heavy trains. A bird lover recalls reading some years ago of a pair of courageous little sparrows that started a nest at one end of a large turntable in a roundhouse. This turn table was the same at both ends, and the birds built two nests-one on each end, working one day on one end and the next day on the other, as the turntable was reversed. Here, In the midst of din and confusion, they finally selected one of the nests and raised a happy brood of young Ines. INTERESTING SURVIVAL. An extremely good example of tht "Wheel of Fortune" (once fairly com mon, but now very scarce) is to be seen in the Church of Comfort, not far from Pont Croix, in Brittany. Made of wood and t roughly fashioned, with bells on its outer rim, it is pivoted between two planks, and can be caused to rotate by pulling at a cord, thereby ringing all the bells. The common belief of the coun try folk is that when rung for an in valid who has placed a few coins in the box to which the rope is secured, the wheel exhibits wonderful healing powers on the sufferer's behalf. BEWARE OF THE KICKER In most big stables where visitors are frequent it will often be noticed that certain of the horse-stalls have a rope of straw attached to the posts. This is intended as a warning that the occupant is not of an amiable dis position, and that it is dangerous for the visitor to be stow a pat or a ;aress on the animal. One often sees :his sign of warning at racing estab ishments, where it is, of course, most .mportant that vicious or excitable thoroughbreds should not be an ioyed. INGENIOUSLY CONTRIVED POWER A writer in Science tells of an in renious little skiff about two inches ong which he constructed and pro rided with a piece of soap for the notor. The boat was of wood paraf ined to repel the water. The soap ormed the sternboard of the skiff. t'he boat was placed on still water in t bathtub and began to move as soon L5 the water came in contact with the soap. After gathering headway it 'eached a velocity of two Inches a second. The power was derived from he potential energy of the surface vater film set free by the diminution If surface tension, this reduction be. rg due to solution of the soap,-.**So patio American. Summer is a splendid season for fostering a child's good looks. Great Nature stands with her arms wide for the little ones, inviting healthful play in the open air, when muscles are hardened, finicky appetites im proved and inches and pounds taken on. But the mother must be very careful about food on the hotter days -be careful, indeed, all summer long -and the daily grooming of the little body must be thorough and regular. Sponge the little body down very gently with tepid water if the child seems too tired for a tub bath, and re peat the operation several times dur ing the hottest days. A teaspoonful of ammoniated toilet water will make this sponging doubly refreshing, but if this is used be careful not to have the water get into the youngster's eyes. When the little head feels burn ing hot, and the hair is soaked with perspiration and is sour as well, a shampoo would not be amiss, and it would doubtless be relished. The ex tra combing the small head gets at this time would be an added comfort -you know how pleasant a combing is to your own tired head-and when. It is time to dress the youngster for the afternoon pay more attention to finding the garments that will keep it cool than to putting on those for mere looks. High necks and long sleeves are a crime in hot weather, and so, for that matter, are stockings -to the wee children who are allowed the bare-necked, bare-armed and bare legged conditions of dress. A delicate nursery powder, with the fragrance that appeals to the senses, is as added refreshment after the bath, and it is absolutely needed for the children who chafe easily, or are given to little eruptions from heat or Indigestion. Violet talcum, prepared for nursery use, is about as good a thing as can be had for general pur poses, but if the child is suffering from summer rash this preparation would be more cooling and healing: Elder-flower water .........7 ounces Glycerin ......................1 ounce Borax ........................./ dram MIx these together and apply night and morning and during the day. Now what is the chief cause of the summer rash, and the reason for much of the peevishness, and a good deal of the light physical pain a growing child has in summer? Im proper food, you may be sure, food as heavy as that in winter, overeating, too many cold drinks, overripe or un derripe fruit. On a hot day-one of the dog day kind-indiscretion in food Is especially dangerous, particu larly if a heavy meal is eaten when the child comes In overheated. A child's food up to eight years of age -and often later-needs always to be the light, easily digested sort. Milk is the most natural food for child hood, and very often it Is refused by the youngsters because it is poor or badly kept. Tepid milk is a nauseous mess on a hot day, but milk must not be drunk too cold either, particularly when children are warns and tired and are inclined to take their bever ages at a gulp. If the household has that very precious blessing a cellar, the best way to keep milk Is to put it in carefully cleansed and sunned bottles, which can be covered, and then set them on the cellar floor. The coolness of this underground chamber will keep milk at just the right tem perature, and also preserve more of its delicious quality than if it were put on the ice. 00000LLIL00000 0000000000 Large or Small Hat Is a Question for the Future Some experts of fashions say that still larger hats will be worn, whilo& others disagree and say that the small turban shaped hats will be in the majority. The large hat in the photograph is of Panama trimmed with a bow of black velvet and a large pink rose in the front. The small bonnet Ia of Milan straw and trimmed with rose and rose leaf decoration.. g ocidor ýnmc Polite Notes. Will you kindly advise the custom concerning letters of condolence and congratulation? Should letters be sent only to friends out of town, or may they be used between friends In the same city? Are letters of condolence better than a call? ANXIOUS. Letters of condolence are always proper, no matter whether to a person living out of town or in one's home city. A card with the word "sympa thy" or "to inquire" left at the house of mourning is always good form, for, of course, only the nearest and dearest friends see a bereaved family; but afterward they look at the cards and letters and deeply appreciate all who have thought of them in their sorrow. Letters of congratulation are always acceptable, enhancing whatever the good fortune may be by sharing with one's frienus. The good book says. "rejoice with those who do rejoice and weep with those who mourn," or words to that effect, and it is a pretty good. maxim to follow. Giving a Breakfast. Would you kindly give a few sug gestions as to the menu and entertain ment suitable for a breakfast for about 25 young ladies? This is for no special occasion, but I wish something a little different. SUBSCRIBER. For so many guests you will prob ably seat them at small tables. It would be pretty to have a different' color of candle and flowers at each table. Serve first a chilled fruit mix ture, chicken and mushroom patties, Saratoga potatoes, tiny hot, buttered biscuit, olives, salted nuts, radishes. Asparagus salad or tomatoes stuffed with shrimps. A strawberry mousse, with small cakes or a tutti-frutti ice cream makes an acceptable finish. Grape juice, iced tea or coffee may be the choice of beverages, with a cordial. Afterward have a reading or a short musical programme. Perhaps you have some friend who is clever enough to entertain with personal reminis cences of some unique or interesting experience in travel at home or abroad. Etiquette at a Reception. ' Will you kindly inform me the proper thing to do at a reception? Should 1 leave my calling card? What should be served? S. A. B. Greet your hostess, be served to refreshments, leave your card and take your departure, is about the prescribed formula for an afternoon reception. Tea, coffee, chocolate, sandwiches, wafers, nuts and bonbons, salad, sher bet of ice cream are the usual re freshments served in the dining room. Two or more ladies, generally intimate friends of the hostess, "pour," one or two waiters assisting in the service. Birthday Stones. Some months ago I saw a list of stones allotted to the 12 months in the year; perhaps it was in your col umn, from which I derive much benefit. Will-you kindly print this list? OLD READER. The birth stones are: January, gar net; February, amethyst; March, bloodstone; April, diamond; May, em erald; June, moss agate; July, ruby; August sardonyx; September, sap phire; October, opal; November, to. paz; December, turquoise. MADAME MERRI.