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The Libby herald. [volume] (Libby, Mont.) 1911-1913, September 19, 1912, Image 6

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In Touch With
Fashion
What the Smartest
Dressmakers Are
Now Displaying
Hints That May
Help the Undecided
ture of the Paris summer sea
PARIS.-The most notable fea
son is the Russian ballet, at
the Chatelet theater. We have
now had five or six seasons of
Russian ballets, here in Paris, but the
novelty has not lost any of its charm;
the Parisiennes seem, on the contrary,
to become each year more and more
enthusiastic about these wonderful
dancers and their amazingly artistic
surroundings.
On the first night the Grand Duke
Boris was present with a party of
friends in a prominent box and, close
by, the British embassy party,. with
the young prince of Wales very much
in evidence, writes Idalia de Villiers
In the Boston Globe. In another large
box Mme. Paul Bourget, the charming
wife of the eminent writer, was enter
taining a party, and on this occasion
Mme. Bourget looked exceedingly at
tractive in a clinging robe of moon
light blue jet and a picturesque mantle
of dull blue mirror velvet, lined with
rushed chiffon.
Diamonds Worn in the Coiffure.
I noticed that a great many of our
leading society women wore bands of
diamonds in their hair on the open
ing night of the Russian season. Flat
bands, which closely resemble the
Greek filet in outline, but which are
worn rather far back on the head in
stead of on the forehead. When
these brilliant bands are worn the
hair is pressed extremely simple and
quite close to the bead; in fact; this
may be said of almost all the best
hairdressing of the present moment.
It is now the fashion to show the out
line of the head, and when a fringe is
worn on the forehead it is more often
than not short and almost straight.
Curiously enough, I noticed one or
two extremely pretty women wearing
their hair quite short all over their
heads on the opening night. This
The Beautiful American at Mirabeau.
fashion was very popular several
years ago and it is a style which wom
en of. small and pretty features find
becoming, but it is a strong measure
to cut one's hair quite short, and I am
of opinion that the heads I saw at
the Chatelet represented the eccentric
ity of individual taste rather than the
herald of a possible revival.
A great many black and dark blue
evening gowns were worn, and in all
cases there toilets were covered with
rich embroideries, which sparkled and
glittered under the soft light of a
thousand lamps. The keynote of our
fashions of today, so far as evening
gowns are concerned, is sparkle! It
is the age of eclectic extravagance, but
there are mo:cents when one feels in
clined to gasp at the sight of embroid
eries covered with diamond facets and
with seed pearls massed together in
reckless profusion. Never were jet
embroideries more popular for eve
ning dresses than this season and the
rage of the moment is moonlight-jet
which gives lovely metallic tints in a
strong light.
At the Mirabeau.
The Hotel Mirabeau in the rue de
la Paix is a favorite meeting place of
the Parisiennes this season. It is a
convenient place, for every one finds
it necessary to pass through the Place
Vendome and the rue de Ia l'aix some
time in the afternoon of each day. The
famous street of dressmakers rep
resents Paris itself. It is en route for
everywhere. At the Mirabeau I saw
some rarely attractive gowns and hats
and I have sketched for your benefit
a picturesque toque and shoulder cape
which was worn by a lovely American
girl who sat It at the table next to
ours, and who was amusing her friends
with a vivacious account of her "im
pressions" of Paris. She was quite
young; not more than seventeen, I
think, and she had the proverbial
American comnplexioa of cream and
ames roses. Her hair was light brown,
-with no traoe of gold in it, and it was
so amazingly glossy that one wondered
whether its brilliant appearance was
entirely due to the constant care of a
clever maid or if some specially fine
brilliantine had been cleverly intro
duced. I am inclined to think that Na
ture and the clever maid were re
sponsible for those wonderful waves,
for the girl was perfectly turned out,
from head to foot.
Fit Adornment for Lovely Head.
The picturesque toque was made of
fine Tuscan straw, and the shape was
so supple that it molded itself round
the lovely little head. The only trim
ming was an exquisite gloire de Dijon
rose, placed almost in front, but the
foliage of this rose was of a rich
brown tint, and so cleverly arranged
that it gave an appearance of height to
the side of the toque. The little man
telet was made of old-rose silk, which
had *a dull surface, and the hem
stitched frills were in silk muslin in
the same shade. These mantelets
are the lastest rage of the ultra-ex
clusive Parisiennes, and it is certain
that the dainty little garment worn by
the lovely "bud" had just come from
the atelier of either Paquin or Doucet,
for both these dressmakers are mak
ing a specialty of them. The curious
part of the matter was that the
charming mantelet was worn over a
perfectly plain and very clinging dress
of black taffetas. It was a curious
combination, especially for a young
girl, but entirely successful.
In the same party there was a pret
ty fair girl who was dressed from
head to foot in ivory white. As I
looked at her and noticed the fact that
she attracted universal attention, I
felt more convinced than ever that the
girl, or young married woman, who
early decides on making a specialty
of white costumes is exceedingly wise.
It has long been realized that pure
white costumes give better effects
than any others at such fashionable
resorts as Trouville, Biarritz and San
Sebastian. But it is not everyone who
realizes that pure white costumes are
eminently suitable for afternoon wear
during the Paris season. White silk
finished linen, white shantung, fine
white serge. To obtain really good ef
fects great care must be taken to car
ry out the white scheme in every de
tail; white shoes and stockings, white
gloves, pure white costume and ex
quisitely fresh white blouse. With
this spotless toilette, a large picture
hat could be worn with the best re
sults.
Not Really Extravagant.
I am aware that many women cher
ish an idea that white costumes, care
fully carried in every detail, are ex
travagant. I do not deny that a cer
ta'-, amount of money must necessar
ily be set aside for the cleaner's bill
and also for daily renewals of gloves,
etc. But then, on the other hand,
white costumes do not date them
selves. The girl who is known to
make a specialty of all white toilettes
does not require a number of differ
ent dresses, for each one looks very
much like the other. What she needs
is spotless purity in every detail, and
absolute freshness. I have often gone
into the subject with friends and have
over and over again proved to them
that a girl in smart society can hold
her own even at such a fashionable
place as Trouville with three or four
white suits, provided always that she
has in her possession an almost unlim
ited supply of white gloves and sev
eral pairs of beautifully made white
shoes. The selection of hats which
can be worn with white costumes is
practically unlimited, but for the
morning nothing looks better than a
white straw trimmed with snow white
wings.
Lovely Summer Dresses.
A lace gown, which was worn at
the last Auteuil race meeting, when a
heat wave was passing over Paris,
was very picturesque in design and
yet delightfully simple. The skirt was
arranged in two deep flounces, a favor
ite idea this season, and on each
flounce there was a flat ruching of
deep cherry colored taffetas to match
the smart little coatee. The outline
of this dress showed the gradual re
turn to fuller skirts, but the lace
flounces are so carefully shaped and
arranged that they cling to the figure
almost as closely as might a tightly
gored skirt.
A curious little coatee is a novelty
of the moment. Paquin launched these
quaint garments a few weeks ago, and
since then they have rushed into popu
lar favor. In shot silk and in plain
colors, such as emerald green, raven's
wing blue, cerise, etc., these coatees
look very attractive when worn over
lace dresses, as indicated in the
sketch, or over tailored skirts of thin
cloth or linen.
In a simple costume suitable for
morning or afternoon wear, the ma
torial was striped linen in dull blue
and white and the skirt was slightly
draped to give a pannier effect. On
the corsage there were bands of tA'le
de jouy which showed an old-wou.id
deoign . in blue, pink and gray on a
white ground and the taffeta sash had
dull blue lines on white. It was a
very practical and comfortable cos
tume; just the thing for an afternoon
stroll in the Dlois, or for an excursion
into the country.
Unique Clock.
A modern traveling clock shows the
popular tendency to compression. It
li as flat as an unfilled wallet and can
easily be slipped in a handbag.
One of the newest has the clock
an eight-day affair, about the size of
a man's watch-a barometer and ther
mometer combined. Thus the traveler
can not only tell the hour of day, but
the probable weather she will have
for her outings.
In selecting one of these fiat travel
ing clocks, make tuts of an eight-drv
movement.
TOO STRENUOUS A JOE
MOSQUITO EXTERMINATOR HAl
HAD ENOUGH.
Recently Went Through Experlenc4
That It Must Be Admitted Was
Calculated to Discourage
Almost Any One.
Charles F. Staedler, marshal of V'e
rona, N. J., is also chief mosquito ex
terminator of that city. It is his duty
to hunt out the breeding places of the
winged rapiers that made New Jersey
famous and deluge their larvae with
kerosone oil. The life of the chiel
mosquito exterminator has been a tran
quil one. But recently the foe of Jer
sey's curse met with an experience
that confines him to his bed under the
care of a physician.
The chief exterminator and his able
assistant, Thomas Brennan, set out to
visit some marshy land at the head of
Verona lake. As the chief exterminaton
stood upon a bog pouring oil upon the
hatchery of a flock of mosquitoes his
toot slipped and into the mire weni
the marshal.
Before Brennan could grasp him the
chief exterminator had sunk to his arm
pits. Brennan labored hard to pull his
colleague from the bog, and, with a
!rantic yank at his chief's coat collar,
he, too, slipped and joined his compan
con. The two struggled in the bog as
did lunyan, but to no avail.
Then, almost engulfed, they raised
their voices and roared for aid. Little
Hughlie Ervine heard the wild calls
from the bog and saw two heads pro
truding above the mire. Hughie tore
several boards from a nearby fence
and built a walk to the spot where the
mosquito terrors lustily struggled fos
freedob. But Hughie could do noth
Ing'more, and the moments were pre
cdous, for each convulsive effort only
settled the mosquito catchers deepen
in their miry prison.
Hughie was dispatched for instant
aid. He qualified for the Olympic team
In his sprint up the road to David Slay'
back's place. David set forth in his
motor car with a long rope.
Slayback, with Hughie's aid, drag
ged Brennan from the bog. For al
most two hours they labored, and
Staedler was almost ready to close
his eyes and murmur, "Farewell, proud
world," when Slayback was strueb
with a brilliant idea. He fastened one
end of the rope under the chief ex
terminator's arms. The other end was
tossed over the branch of a nearby
oak and then tied to the rear of the
motor car.
Slayback took his seat in the can
and grasped the starting lever. Bren
nan raised his hand and Slayback pul
on full power ahead. It was a hard
pull. The chief exterminator almosi
was pulled apart, but up into the aif
he finally shot and dangled twixt boi
and blue sky, dripping ooze and words
of anguish.
As far as the chief exterminator in
concerned, all the mosquitoes in Jer
sey can go to blazes. He said so him
self, only his verbiage was more stren
uous.
Not Ashamed of Cowardice.
The idea that nothing is so disgrace
ful as cowardice is one that is not
held by all races. Among the Bedouins
a sheik may be the leader of hii
tribe only in peace. When there it
war, the chances are that he will re
linquish his leadership to the fightini
sheik.
"I have not the gift of courage,'
once said an Arab chief to an Eng
lishman, apologizing for not putting
himself at the head of a band that h4
had sent to attack another tribe.
The Englishman learned that thesq
nomads esteem personal bravery as i
gift, for the want of which a man ii
no more to be censured than he is t(
be blamed for not being handsome.
A Bengali says, without the leas
sense of shame, "I am timid." Yet hi
will meet death, even when it ap
proaches in the form of the hangman
with the composure of a martyr.-Il
lustrated Sunday Magazine.
Would Not Consider Dishes.
J. C. Stubbs, the Southern Pacifik
official, hasn't a great deal of patienc4
with amateurs and those uninformed
in the railroad game, and he is said to
have told this story to illustrate thq
"wisdom" of an incipient railroad
magnate.
When the stock holders of the Val
ley railroad were meeting in 1893 ti
plan the construction of the new line
matters of detail were taken up amoni
them, for even the smallest stool
holder wanted a finger in the con
struction pie.
At one meeting a director who had
to do with the engineering problems
of construction asked, "How heavi
shall the fish plates be?"
A stock holder growled, "What an
we bothering with the dining osy
features for now? Let's go ahead ant
build the road first."
Not a Moral Objection.
A dance hall manager who oouId
never by any stretch of the imagine
tion be accused of harboring aesthetjl
convictions came out unequivocalli
against the season's dances.
"I am pleased to hear you take thi
stand," said a reformer. "Leaving mq
rality out of the questica, they are cei
tainly ugly."
"Oh, I wasn't thinking about that,'
said the manager. "I'm dead s
against them because it takes m
room to dance them in. My hall, th
will hold 250 couples for ord
dancing, now accommodates only
couples, and I lose all that maow
CHAMBER OF SILENCE..
At the Physiological Institute of the
University of Utrecht is a chamber
about 73 feet square, which is said
to be absolutely noiseless as far as
the entrance of any sounds from out.
side is concerned. This chamber is
an inside room, but so arranged that
it can be ventilated and inundated
with sunshine. The walls, doors and
ceiling each consist of half a dozen
layers of different substances, with
air spaces and interstices filled with
sound deadening materials. Some
persons when in the room experience
a curious sensation in the ears. While
every effort has been made to exclude
sounds that are not wanted, of course,
the object of constructing this singu
lar room was to experiment with phe
nomena connected with sound. Some
of the sounds employed are made in
the room itself; others are introduced
from outside by means of a copper
tube, which is plugged with lead
when not in use.
ELEPHANTINE TOOTH PULLING.
When an elephant has an ulcer
ated tooth the result, as can be
readily imagined, is an elephantine
toothache, and usually the only means
of relief is the extraction of the of
fending molar. The removal of a
tooth from an elephant in Rio de
Janeiro, recently took four mighty
)ulls by 15 men on a stout rope which
Four Mighty Pulls by Fifteen Men
Were Required to Extract an Aching
Tooth From the Jaw of the Elephant.
was attached to the tooth by platinum
wire. The beast willingly submitted
itself to the preparations and gave
no evidence of pain or anger until
after the fourth pull, which dislodged
the tooth.-Popular Mechanics.
FREAK PLACES FOR NESTS.
Many birds that are shy and retli
Ing in other respects show very little
fear of the creaking and groaning of
heavy machinery, or the thunderous
roar of heavy trains. A bird lover
recalls reading some years ago of a
pair of courageous little sparrows that
started a nest at one end of a large
turntable in a roundhouse. This turn
table was the same at both ends, and
the birds built two nests-one on
each end, working one day on one
end and the next day on the other, as
the turntable was reversed. Here,
In the midst of din and confusion,
they finally selected one of the nests
and raised a happy brood of young
Ines.
INTERESTING SURVIVAL.
An extremely good example of tht
"Wheel of Fortune" (once fairly com
mon, but now very
scarce) is to be
seen in the Church
of Comfort, not
far from Pont
Croix, in Brittany.
Made of wood and
t roughly fashioned,
with bells on its
outer rim, it is
pivoted between
two planks, and
can be caused to
rotate by pulling
at a cord, thereby
ringing all the
bells. The common belief of the coun
try folk is that when rung for an in
valid who has placed a few coins in
the box to which the rope is secured,
the wheel exhibits wonderful healing
powers on the sufferer's behalf.
BEWARE OF THE KICKER
In most big stables where visitors
are frequent it will often be noticed
that certain of
the horse-stalls
have a rope of
straw attached to
the posts. This is
intended as a
warning that the
occupant is not of
an amiable dis
position, and that
it is dangerous for
the visitor to be
stow a pat or a
;aress on the animal. One often sees
:his sign of warning at racing estab
ishments, where it is, of course, most
.mportant that vicious or excitable
thoroughbreds should not be an
ioyed.
INGENIOUSLY CONTRIVED POWER
A writer in Science tells of an in
renious little skiff about two inches
ong which he constructed and pro
rided with a piece of soap for the
notor. The boat was of wood paraf
ined to repel the water. The soap
ormed the sternboard of the skiff.
t'he boat was placed on still water in
t bathtub and began to move as soon
L5 the water came in contact with the
soap. After gathering headway it
'eached a velocity of two Inches a
second. The power was derived from
he potential energy of the surface
vater film set free by the diminution
If surface tension, this reduction be.
rg due to solution of the soap,-.**So
patio American.
Summer is a splendid season for
fostering a child's good looks. Great
Nature stands with her arms wide
for the little ones, inviting healthful
play in the open air, when muscles
are hardened, finicky appetites im
proved and inches and pounds taken
on. But the mother must be very
careful about food on the hotter days
-be careful, indeed, all summer long
-and the daily grooming of the little
body must be thorough and regular.
Sponge the little body down very
gently with tepid water if the child
seems too tired for a tub bath, and re
peat the operation several times dur
ing the hottest days. A teaspoonful of
ammoniated toilet water will make
this sponging doubly refreshing, but if
this is used be careful not to have
the water get into the youngster's
eyes. When the little head feels burn
ing hot, and the hair is soaked with
perspiration and is sour as well, a
shampoo would not be amiss, and it
would doubtless be relished. The ex
tra combing the small head gets at
this time would be an added comfort
-you know how pleasant a combing
is to your own tired head-and when.
It is time to dress the youngster for
the afternoon pay more attention to
finding the garments that will keep it
cool than to putting on those for
mere looks. High necks and long
sleeves are a crime in hot weather,
and so, for that matter, are stockings
-to the wee children who are allowed
the bare-necked, bare-armed and bare
legged conditions of dress.
A delicate nursery powder, with the
fragrance that appeals to the senses,
is as added refreshment after the
bath, and it is absolutely needed for
the children who chafe easily, or are
given to little eruptions from heat or
Indigestion. Violet talcum, prepared
for nursery use, is about as good a
thing as can be had for general pur
poses, but if the child is suffering
from summer rash this preparation
would be more cooling and healing:
Elder-flower water .........7 ounces
Glycerin ......................1 ounce
Borax ........................./ dram
MIx these together and apply night
and morning and during the day.
Now what is the chief cause of the
summer rash, and the reason for
much of the peevishness, and a good
deal of the light physical pain a
growing child has in summer? Im
proper food, you may be sure, food as
heavy as that in winter, overeating,
too many cold drinks, overripe or un
derripe fruit. On a hot day-one of
the dog day kind-indiscretion in
food Is especially dangerous, particu
larly if a heavy meal is eaten when
the child comes In overheated. A
child's food up to eight years of age
-and often later-needs always to be
the light, easily digested sort. Milk
is the most natural food for child
hood, and very often it Is refused by
the youngsters because it is poor or
badly kept. Tepid milk is a nauseous
mess on a hot day, but milk must not
be drunk too cold either, particularly
when children are warns and tired
and are inclined to take their bever
ages at a gulp. If the household has
that very precious blessing a cellar,
the best way to keep milk Is to put
it in carefully cleansed and sunned
bottles, which can be covered, and
then set them on the cellar floor. The
coolness of this underground chamber
will keep milk at just the right tem
perature, and also preserve more of
its delicious quality than if it were
put on the ice.
00000LLIL00000 0000000000
Large or Small Hat Is a
Question for the Future
Some experts of fashions say that still larger hats will be worn, whilo&
others disagree and say that the small turban shaped hats will be in the
majority. The large hat in the photograph is of Panama trimmed with a
bow of black velvet and a large pink rose in the front. The small bonnet
Ia of Milan straw and trimmed with rose and rose leaf decoration..
g ocidor
ýnmc
Polite Notes.
Will you kindly advise the custom
concerning letters of condolence and
congratulation? Should letters be sent
only to friends out of town, or may
they be used between friends In the
same city? Are letters of condolence
better than a call? ANXIOUS.
Letters of condolence are always
proper, no matter whether to a person
living out of town or in one's home
city. A card with the word "sympa
thy" or "to inquire" left at the house
of mourning is always good form, for,
of course, only the nearest and dearest
friends see a bereaved family; but
afterward they look at the cards and
letters and deeply appreciate all who
have thought of them in their sorrow.
Letters of congratulation are always
acceptable, enhancing whatever the
good fortune may be by sharing with
one's frienus. The good book says.
"rejoice with those who do rejoice and
weep with those who mourn," or words
to that effect, and it is a pretty good.
maxim to follow.
Giving a Breakfast.
Would you kindly give a few sug
gestions as to the menu and entertain
ment suitable for a breakfast for about
25 young ladies? This is for no special
occasion, but I wish something a little
different. SUBSCRIBER.
For so many guests you will prob
ably seat them at small tables. It
would be pretty to have a different'
color of candle and flowers at each
table. Serve first a chilled fruit mix
ture, chicken and mushroom patties,
Saratoga potatoes, tiny hot, buttered
biscuit, olives, salted nuts, radishes.
Asparagus salad or tomatoes stuffed
with shrimps.
A strawberry mousse, with small
cakes or a tutti-frutti ice cream makes
an acceptable finish. Grape juice, iced
tea or coffee may be the choice of
beverages, with a cordial.
Afterward have a reading or a short
musical programme. Perhaps you
have some friend who is clever enough
to entertain with personal reminis
cences of some unique or interesting
experience in travel at home or abroad.
Etiquette at a Reception. '
Will you kindly inform me the
proper thing to do at a reception?
Should 1 leave my calling card? What
should be served? S. A. B.
Greet your hostess, be served to
refreshments, leave your card and take
your departure, is about the prescribed
formula for an afternoon reception.
Tea, coffee, chocolate, sandwiches,
wafers, nuts and bonbons, salad, sher
bet of ice cream are the usual re
freshments served in the dining room.
Two or more ladies, generally intimate
friends of the hostess, "pour," one or
two waiters assisting in the service.
Birthday Stones.
Some months ago I saw a list of
stones allotted to the 12 months in
the year; perhaps it was in your col
umn, from which I derive much benefit.
Will-you kindly print this list?
OLD READER.
The birth stones are: January, gar
net; February, amethyst; March,
bloodstone; April, diamond; May, em
erald; June, moss agate; July, ruby;
August sardonyx; September, sap
phire; October, opal; November, to.
paz; December, turquoise.
MADAME MERRI.

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