Newspaper Page Text
THE TIMES, WASHINGTON. SUNDAY. AUGUST 7, 1898.
17 PETER THE GREAT TOQUES The Favorite Midsummer Hat of Iho Season. SWEET FEMININE GUILE Bewitching: Oypuy Slioen Uvnlniu. the 3lstery of Over-Long SUirtn. Jewel Cnlcolj Xo I'OiiKer Contain 1tle l'reily Mocic StoncM of Li:it ieasisi HnIf-31ouriiin;r. New York, Aug. C Tho altogether goneness of the shoppers' occupation is plainly evident these dog days, but every woman who has a heart for clothes is spreadig her plumes or noting those of her neighbors. Truth to tell, there Is a very lively dis play of sartorial fancies to attract atten tion 'and nothing is of more interest to the curious than the smart outing cus tumes of women in mourning. A skirt of ink black pique, relieved by divers small flounces of black lawn, edged with white lace and every ruffle headed by a row of narrow white -braid, is sure to make a striking point in any landscape. With such a garment the mourners assumo white pique coats, the broad revere, col ters "and cuffs of black pique, and this goes over a black muslin shirt waist, finely striped in white. Women who are not mourners wear short white twill coats, .faced on revers, cuffs and collar with a bright solid color. . Black and white flat straw, braided, in-sallor thape, is the choice hat among these who are in summer black, and instead of the sailor of familiar form, i new variety is conspicuous. The French suitor, it is called, having a ratiier small, high crown, and a brim tliatTs wider than usual, inclining dis UhoU.v down toward the face. The rib bon that chumps ihe crown is tied to on Me. and two narrow little streamers ftUtter over the right ear. On the whole. thse Kre more becoming than the hard and fast little head box we have worn s long, and ainited femininity seems t favor sailors of mixed straws. "" A plain white round straw, with a black or white ribbon band, is falling out of good grace, and if there is any generalization yet to be indulged in with regard to trimmed hats, it is to comment on the multiplication of the small tall shapes. Women, whose clothes are significant of the fm ure. certainly do not wear wide 'headpieces. They will tell you that the queer pretty crown-shaped af fairs of tulle they go calling In, are Eoter the Great hats; but so far you can't find one of these ac the milliner's. Explain what you want, and she will smile a significant by and by smile. which plainly enough indicates that this and all the other new styles or toques mua. be waited for until the au tumn. Meanwhile, if you wish to run fchoulder to shoulder with the fashions, you can adopt a pretty black lace Napo leon toque, set far back on your head and waving with targe light plumes. Very far down on the ears come the points of this lace or tulle cap, but to most women the effect is becoming. There is a pretty plague of white leg horns raging in the country settlements this month wide brimmed children's shapes and invariably trimmed one of two ways. Either a scarf of mousseline brllllante. striped with many rows of nar row yellow lace, ruffled on, is wound and knotted about the crown, or a watteau wreath of pink roses encircles one-half of crown and low-hanging brim, with tufts of green grenadine ribbon completing the deeoration. One would think the period oCdotas&Jvas faUimr earlier than hither to n our women, if the wearing of these babyish hats can be taken as an indica tion. Mothers of well-seasoned daughters pin these white and rose confections, fit for schoolgirls, on their grizzling heads and go forth content, conspicuous and ridiculous. -TtocMo ilio leirhorn flats, women, who gainer on green lawns at the thresholds ofeliibhouses of bright afternoons, dis play rather widish hats of deep yellow broom straw, fancifully trimmed with brawn, gold and green field grasses, a flab of lace and maybe a knot of ribbon. The all-straw hat. though, is looked upon as the most distinctly fashionable head covering one can wear, and its vogue is strong.with those who display very fetch ing organdies, muslins, lawn cross bars nd sch like extravagant simplicities. Except a silk velvet dress trimmed "srith sable, there is scarcely another costume quite-. so costly as an all-white muslin, for muslia tirHliante is what ttoe moni tors at fashion have adopted. This is Swiss with a s'lk warp, and only the lwer ha'f of the bodice and tipper iialf of tfce skirt are ever made of it- The siweet white gown calls for a deep flounce C taBrtWMired cream net, and then on the tfMt of tlite must be close set muslin ruf Jtog. all adged with narrow soft wiiite p. grain ribbon. At back and front the &b1: mut tweep the floor in order to fceJt out like the open petals of a lHy. Tight white -net sleeeves require showers of little ribbon-edged ruffles fallinu av-r the knuckles, and to cap this modish cli ntirx a "big nogav of white my n-as sheu'd And lodgment on the left shoulder, j Tiwr is always e deep Jam piot oeaum every apparently inexplicable whim of ihe t&angeful feminine toilet. Whosc && will take especial notice at any swarming of pretty human butterflies can ettaHy gue why long skirts have been nominated in this season's bond of fash ion. A woman whose gown is a couple of Inches too long in front is obliged iwany. many times in an hour to daintily lift up the front breadths, in order that she may not trip over. While so doing .ghe does expose perhaps a trifle more of her Kreen or gray suede gypsy shoes than one would ordinarily, or thus, by this art ful maneuver, call public attention to her Venetian slippers, both stylos of footgear bring eminently worthy of display and ad miration. A gypsy shoe is made of green glace kid, witha low heel, a square toe and a chaeed silver buckle, connecting two simps that cross high on the Instep. Very often a pretty pattern is cut or pi-essed into the leather, and green silk hose, exactly matching the shoe, are worn with this tidy slipper. Venetian sandals are assumed chiefly at night, for dances and dinners. Their black satin vamps are cut as low as pos sible over the toe, which Is rounded, and the heel is gilded, to harmonize with the delicate geometric lines of gold embroid ery that are fretted out over the black background. Occasionally one sees worn with these black silk stockings, heavily interwoven with gold threads; but an un pleasant suspicion lingers that this type of hosiery never can be permitted to visit the waslitub. Most sensible and becom ing of all the Summer shoes seen so far are the Oxford ties of willow calf. Women who boast that all Summer long they wear nothing more costly than white duck and pique t.kir:s and shirts, who cut these same skirts ankle short and have discarded stiff linen collars for soft pique sipeks. have taken the willow calf shoe to their hearts as well as their feet. They extol its merits far over the virtues of pigskin, yellow sealskin and Russia leather and Invariably lace their new ties with leather thoncs. In nlace of tilk lacers. That woman errs who adds to her to!- let by day any undue amount of jewels. l.nst Winter mock stones, elaborate belt slides and fanciful chains and pins flashed forth from every fair caller, theatergoer. or even pedestrian. With the Summer this hajilt has altered, and though semi-pre- clous stones are as popular as ever, the cheap, pretty make-believe, In an easily tarnished setting, has gone silently out ihthe'dnstpin. In a gatherlnfg' of two hundred women on a casino or coun try club house piazza the jewels displayed will only be seen at intervals, and those are very apt to be genuine. An excep tion mut bomade. In favor of pearls, The machine made Imitation of the oys ter's product wreathes many fair throats, but a small, verj? white pearl is the kind usually adopted."' Numbers of women have a fad for col lecting and wearing eccentric pearls, that is, in shape or color. These are real, however, and a goodly number come from our own rivers in the West. One of the new favorite ways of utilizing large irregularly-formed pearls Is to string three on a very fine gold thread. The thread is long enough to pass around the throat, tio under the chin and have the two ends hanging for about two or three inches. At the point where the thread ties one .large pearl Is fixed, while tho two others finish off the ends of the fine chain. A larfie, queerly-shaped black, yellow and pink pearl is considered the most appropriate combination for such a necklace, else for a chain similarly worn on the arm. Almost as lovely as the true gems wom en wear are the sequins, cut from pink, white and smoked pearl, that glitter on some of tho very new gowns. It does not require a visit to a fashion oracle to prophesy that shell sequins will com mand a high place- in the estimation of the well dressed In the months to come. Nothing yet produced in Jet can equal thr. iridescent beauty of these small and large discs, cut from mussel, conchc and oyster shells, highly polished, and fas tened to tho satin or net by a tiny hook in the back of each sequin. With this idealized and glittering wampum, flowers, leaves and fanciful patterns are outlined, and, on the very splendid gowns, the de signs are nlled in with beading or em broider'. So far only a little of the shell sequin work has been seen, and that, be ing a direct importation, is enormously expensive, but it Is safe to reckon that the price will como down as soon as a large quantity of the new trimming is brought over. As the vigilant cat observes the hole where the mouse went in, so must Ihe carefully-dressed woman watch the skirts of her sister in fashion, in order to be ready for the next uemonstration in drapery. A motion Is undoubtedly being made in favor of turning what are now flounces into loops and falls of material, so soon as heavier goods than muslin and foulard come into u.se. Even the mid summer suits of cloth have braided fronts, detached from the skirt and fall ing from the hips" to below the knees in ucute or rounded points. They are chic enough in effect, while many of the voiles j and delicate bareges are twitched up on in nips to cast wnnsties lowaiu me n-ui and take away from the exact plainness of the bklrt that has no salvation in the way of rutlles. Conclusions galore, and very trustwor thy ones, as towhat the- mondainea ore wearing of an evening-can, be drawn from th three figureg of costumes given here. From slipper to too to topmost curl these sketched beauties are synonymous with the best that is appearing at any one of the large watering places. The first figure in the row wears a taf feta silk of a popular color known as vio let and silver. That Is, a pure violet shot with silver, and its rear breadths are flounced up to the waist with white mus lin briir.ante. Draped over the top of the low-cut body is a scarf of white mus lin, while the shoulder straps are formed of a series of gold, cameo brooahes, set about with pearls. A trained dinner gown of white satin is shown in the third picture. Garnishment in tho form of white Limerick lace is dis played in a fan drapery on the long rear folds of satin, and hi similar arrangement of lace on the body is caught with a jew eled pin at the waist line. A suggestion in evening wraps Is af forded by the fourth figure. Here we have tho usual shawl shape and the wrap is made of either satin or white Summer weight broadcloth, with a satin flounce on the edge. Full frills of silk muslin line the high collar and a kerchief of the same falls over the shoulders. SOME R'OYAL JEWELS. Qntcii Vlctorio.JL.cmlK jOflf Willi ihe lvoliinoor Diamond. When a London dealer in precious stone? Is commanded to Windsor or Osborne, he finds in the Queen a very shrewd and in telligent purchaser. She knows diamonds like an expert and buys like one. She owns a marvelous green diamond that has never been set, and furthermore she has at her fingers' end the "history of every notable stone In Europe now in the pos session of royalty. Queen Margaret of Italy owns next to the ex-Queen of Hanover the finest neck lace of pearls in existence. She does not, like her deposed majesty of Hanover, pos sess a six-foot string of these lovely beads every one an absolute match in shape and color, but so extensive and so precious are her pearl ropes that her maids are obliged to wear a portion of the collection all the while, in order to assist the Queen in keeping the gems pure, lustrous, and healthy by constant contact with warm human flesh, it is King Humbert who buys the pearl? for his wife, and he is. like Queen Victoria, an expert in jewels. The Queen of Austria owns the greatest emerald in the world and a necklace of emeralds that isquite unrivaled. They, like Margaret of Italy's pearls, are now crown property. The Empress of Russia wears next after Queen Victoria the largest diamond 'and rubies of surpassing splendor, but all of these belong to the nation, though the richest and most va ried aggregation of precious stones are owned by the Russian Church. Not all the queens of Europe own jewels to half tho value of those set in the statues, crosses, altars and vestments at the ca thedrals of Moscow or St. Petersburg. , That quiet, domestic lady, the Queen of Dresden, enjoys the ownership of four sapphires equal In size and beauty to the one that glows In the crown of England, and the favorite wives of the Shah of Persia and the Sultan of Turkey wear turquoises the like of which no western queen can boast. Mrs. Langtry at one time owned the most perfect set of tur quoises In Europe, but her necklace and bracelets were sold at length and tho finest stones came to America. The Duch ess of Westminster still wears, however, the largest flawless turquoise owned by any private individual; the Duchess of Sutherland possesses the only complete necklace of black pearls, and it is said by jewelers that Mrs. Potter Palmer's star sapphires are still unrivaled. Oi-yjrcii for Rabies. "Now is the time," says an eminent medical authority on children's diseases, "for mothers to keep their babies out of doors all the day long, when the weather Is decently fine. Let the little ones, shielded from sun and draught, take their naps out of doors. Even in northern ltal tudes, they may safely sleep In the open air in the daytime until Thanksgiving, and frequently even later than this, children thus treated will have little sus ceptibility to colds, sore throats, etc.. and will -withstand almost any disease." Parents seem to forget that children are born with the hunger and need for plenty of oxygen. It is not less essen tial than their food. Two or three hours on pleasant days is utterly insufficient for expanding lungs, yet it is all that the majority of babies get. Twelve hours is none too much this season, and there is scarcely a day In the whole year when they may not be taken out. A remarkable instance, of the results of this practice has come into my own per sonal experience. There Is by the way no such thjng as inherited disease, only inherited tendencies; and these ' tenden- cies may be successfully combatted by commanding proper conditions. The child of one of my patients directly inherited tuberculosis from both sides of the fami ly and was a very delicate infant. The parents. however, had the courafee to j adopt this treatment, and from its birth kept it out of doors practically all the daytime. Now, at the- age of six, it is a child of uncommon' vigor. One can of course establish this1 habit only in mild weather, and now jjs, the most favorable season. "WOMEN AND BRIC-A-BRAC. Tne Have Become Pamoa n Col tccforx of Antique. Summer time Is 'the lean season for the dealer In brtle-a-brac. This Is because the women are out of town, for it Is by the might of the newly developed femi 1 nine love for collecting antiquities, back ed .by the feminine dollar, that tlhe keeper of the ourlcUty shop has become the most pompous prosperous tradesman on tihe block. He used to be about the fur thcrest underdt'g in the -ijus ness of Inly ing and selling, ibut his Coom began about six years ago, it has been a rising boom ever since, and he gratefully ad mits that the women did it all. He can prove It by sh-owing yoi 1 his books a doren feminine tor one .masculine name. "It was the ultra" tasn.onaoie women w,:j went in for ant.ques and bric-a-brac first." .said one dealer, who does a whirl ing business in the winter. "They and the actresses who grow rich, are our most valued patrons and the shrewdest and most intelligent buyers, too, though feminine-Hke, they exhibit very market! eccentricities in selecting and purchasing. For example, it is rarely we find a wo man who interests herself in more than one tpecius of bric-a-brac at a time. Then, too. true to her sex, Ihey dearly love to bargain, to hammer down the I price of everything they buy to the low- j est possible figure, and nfne-tenths of otir customers have had won't -buy at all until they j the article under discussion sent nome. to tr us etiect among tne re- enainder Of their belonging. But the -specialty system Is what exerts the larg est influence on the wo-man who treas ures antiques to (be known and envied for having the finest collection of this or that particular style of plate, for Vernls Martin or Sheridan furniture, for fifteenth century -tapestries or Florentine carved oak is the true goal of her ambition. Profitable customers as they prove in the long run, the women are not on this very account easy to deal wl:n. They are so apt to know whereof thev buv : they are keen-eyed, incredulous, and among them are recognized authorities on every species of bric-a-brac, who are as quick as hawks for detecting the true from the false. Now, when it comes to tapestries and French furniture of other days, a dealer must rise early in the morning to get ahead of Miss Hewitt, the ex-mayor's daughter. She was one of (he first women in New York to go in for this sort of thing, and in her two specialties her decision is valued as that of a profes sional expert. From an artistic and tech nical standpoint she knows pretty much all there is to know of the famous tapes tries in this country and Europe, besidps herself possessing one of the choicest col lections in America, to which she adds from time to time. Next after Miss Hewitt I doubt if there is a woman for whom bric-a-brac dealers cherish a deeper respect than Miss Elsie de Wolf. Years before the taste for sou venirs of other centuries was cultivated at all Miss de Wolf slowly and carefully gathered up out of shops In New York and Paris bits of old French and Spanish paste, odd examples of gold and silver work in jewelry, combs, rings, buckles, etc., and then she added to this a really splendid array of Tans. Her possessions .of seventeenth and eighteenth century paste alone could hardly be matched outside a European museum, and now that this ardor for col lecting has grown so earnest, the value of her array of antique jewelry has in creased to the proportions of a small for tune. There are numbers of women who would gladly exchange their diamond til aras and necklaces for her ancient imi tation stones, but fine paste, though the thing most desired by the feminine col lectors today, is the most difficult article to procure. It is .Mrs. Oliver Belmont who comes oftenest to the shops of bric-a-brac deal ers with a fashionable friend, to pass judgment on some piece of mahogany which the friend has under considera tion, for Mrs. Belmont is on9 of the few persons who can literally, when blind folded, put her hands on a piece of this wood and tell in an instant whether it 53 old and good or new and green. A part of her gifts from her parents at her marriage were wonderful sets of mahog any bed-room and dining-room furniture, taken from their old home In the South. With this as a starter she began to buy good mahogany here and there, until the dealers in antiques, learning of this taste, fell Into the way of sending her word when any special prize came Into their hands. As a collector she is unique among women, for she njver disputes a price. She prefers mahogany from the South, and, after carefully examining a chair or table, passing her white hands caressingly over the wood, she puts down the price named, or drops the whole mat ter then and there. Another equally Intelligent and delight ful collector, from the dealer's standpoint, is Miss Maud Adams, whose taste is ex clusively for miniatures. Miss A'damsls not so well known to the trade, though, as a tall, gray-haired, woman, who al ways looks over the last bits of old Eng lish plate one may have In, inquires If any relics of famous actresses have turn ed up, and who has all an Irishwoman's genlua for blarney whea she wants to hammer down a set price. OJhls is QDss Ada Behan, who has put lMi4Ww0m uMW Mm ithousands cif dollars Into these two fads of hers. In England she has got together relics of the iSIddons, Kitty Olive, Wcf fington and Rachel that are worthy of a place in a museum, a.nd her collection of plate fairly overflows both her Now York and English homes. , IA strange development has come about In our trade since .women have culti vated a itaste for brlc-a-torac Prior to this now Interest of theirs we never had employed women as traveling buyers for us through the country, feat dn the South and Now England, whence our best stock qomes, our most valued and exiport buy ers are two young women. They were both of thorn country girls, in out-of-the way districts, looking for the means of MIDSUMMER TOILETS. earning a living. An inspiration came to them to work the rich field of antique furniture, brasses, ceramics, etc., stored in the farm and plantation houses of the neighborhood. So clever did they put through their project, and such valuable stock do they contrive to lay hands "on that they com mand their own wages, even in the very depths of sutrrjmt'r, when all other pro fessions, savo that of the bric-a-brac buyer, is flatter than a stale griddle cake. A Itoynl Favorite. Ono of the most brilliant figures in Lon don society during "the past. fibrfsonf,Svis the dark-'oyed, dark-haired daughter of Lady Cadogan, who'ls now the 'wife of a rich English bankerj- Sir Samuel Scott. Marrying a man of great fortune, this cnarmmg young wcypan.was enormouylv wealthy In her own right, since in the United Kingdom there are few families I nnMslni- vator -rinhe.., thnn thft. rnrln- gans. ith beauty, mgii birtlr and" an enormous Income, it was hardly to bo wondered at that this 'favorite of fortune should take a leading position in not only brilliant but royal society. Of her the Princess of Wales Is especially fond, and m B&&&SI.1 SSOTTf her name almost invariably appears in the list of those guests whom the princess may desiro invited to. the private houses where royalty is to bjj entertained. "" ThinBs"Vorfb.'TnowIliK-.' Charcoal Is useful so often, particularly in the hot weather, that, it is well to re member that a broomstick, cut in con venient lengths and Jjurnt black In the oven, is an excellentvhomemade article. Somo bits, renewed 'occasionally, should bs In milk cellar or;Ica ox, one or two should always be putin 'birds or poultry after they are cleaned, if they are to stand any length of time. Remember that char coal has tho wonderful capacity of ab sorbing poisonous gaeao the extent of 1,000 times its own b.ulk.'i If unpleasant breath is suspected, nib ble a little of the "broom .handle caramel,' and" "it will cleanse tjfie mouth and teeth thoroughly and make tho opposite a cer tainty. An excellent wash for ttio mouth and teeth, and also for tho hair, is made by dissolving two ounces (about four even tablespoons) of borax in three pints of boiling water. While still warm add to this a teaspoon of spirits of camphor. Bottle and keep on tho washstand. When ready to use, add equal amount of warm water. The very heavy rains or early spring has caused "poison Ivy" to be more ram pant than over in country and suburban places this summer. At the slightest ap pearance of irritation of the skin, while in the neighborhood of this dangerous growtli, rub olive oil carafully into tho skin and instant relief is said to follow. This is also a remedy for Insect stings. To Insure the proper drawing out of salt from meat or mackerel soak it over night In milk instead of water. Sour milk will answer as well as sweet. A tough steak may be made tender If rubbed over night or for a few hours with baking soda (bicarbonate). Wash very quicklyand dry well before putting in a very hot frying pan. This is some times more convenient than broiling, and if the pan is properly hot and turning duly attended to, the result will be veri similar. If eggs are short and icing is desired for cake, soak a tablespoon ful of gelatin for a few minutes in the same amount of cold water, then add a tablespoonful of boiling water, add to this, a little at a time, a small cup of powdered sugar, flcavor to taste, spread on the cake while warm. When cold it cannot be distin guished from ess frosting. Yellow frosting is aiade by beating until very Tight the yolks of two eggs with a cup of powdered sugar, flavor with vanila. This looks well on lady cake. Even In the South, .plums of various sorts are early and late in the market, and the juice, particularly of the dam- son. Is sorIch, both in flavor and color, that It is well to preserve it while the ifrult is plentiful. A plum cheese, very appetizing to spread on toast or bread and butter for breakfast, vnay be made from the plums left in the bag. if the juice ds not drained too dry. Rub these through a coarse sieve, simmer until tender, then stir in a scant pint of granu lated sugar to each pint xjf the fruit, bring to the boll, pour Into cups or tumb lers, and when cold cover like currant jelly. If -a. full pint of sugar Is used the 'cfheese will be too hard to spread. The Reason. (From the Cincinnati Enquirer.) Mrs. Wallace Whatdo they want to cut all those cables ior? $, Mr. Wallace Don'tvou understand? As soon as the cables that huld the island arc all cut, it smi Ka a4 nit .ofiincf fhf TTnftfwf tatra nrut ...fastened on to FloriJ. TWO ROYAL MATCH-MAKERS. nivulrj- Iteiwecn Queen Victoria mill L.ouIfe2i at Uennmrlc. Queen Victoria Is the chlefest of them. She comes honestly by her match-making knack which Thackeray says inheres in all good women. In the life settlement of her own young lings, the Queen was much hampered by religious considerations. After she had secured the Crown Prince of Prussia for her eldest daughter, she was a sort of hymeneal Alexander, weeping for more Protestant princes to conquer. As the temporal head of the English Church It would never, never have done to have her sons and daughters go off into Catholi cism, or even the Greek Church. The British taxpayer and tho "non-conformist conscience" would have made a pretty pother over such a thing. That disposed of various matrimonial potentialities among continental royalties. The Prince of Wales may have made a love match but It Is beyond question her Lutheran faith more than her beauty and churm which recommended Alexandra of Den mark. The nation might have grown tur bulent, and heady at the prospect of a Catholic future queen. At any rate the reigning queen did not choose to risk It then any more than she chose to do It more than thirty years later, when the luckless Duke of Clarence fell so madly in love with the beautiful Helen d'Or leans. Alfred, Duke of Edinburgh, now Duko of Saxe-Coburg, handsomest, stingiest and most gifted of the queen's children, she managed to mate exactly to her mind. He was sent to St. Petersburg of course there was no talk of wife-hunting and so captivated the Russian Emper or's daughter, nothing wouid do her but to marry him. although the marriage ran counter to every line of Russian po.lcy, interest and tradition. Grand Duchess Marie was her father's idol he could gainsay nothing. But for his untimely taking off by an anarchist bomb, it is unlikely the relations between the two countries would ever have reached their present tension. In matching her grandchildren, the queen has had a very much freer hand. There she could leave out of account the non-conformist conscience. How well she has realized the fact may be gleaned from this incomplete reckoning of thrones present and prospective, filled by her descendants. Emperor William is her grandson; his sister. Princess Sophie, will one day be queen of Greece, unless Greece gets out of the way of having queens. Emperor William his six sons, ono of whom is slated to' marry the young Queen of Holland. Falling a Prus sian prince, Wilhelmlna may be mated with one of her English cousins, who are the queen's grandsons, children of the dead Prince Leopold. Their motner, a Princess of Waldeck-Pyrmont, refused old King William of Holland, who turned for consolation to her sister, tho present queen regent. Even should an earthquake engulf the six young Prussian princes, Victoria's blood would hold the throne. Prince Henry is not merely her grandson, but married to her granddaugnter, irene ui Hesse. The Hesse princelings, indeed, have been trump cards for the royal matchmaker. Princess Elizabeth is a Russian grand duchess, with only three lives, none of them robust, between her husband and th,e throne. It was by her l,elpshe is witty, and beautiful, and just the least bit wicked that Queen Vic toria was enabled to make Princess Alix Tsarina. The Tsar Nicholas, an impas sive and somewhat cold-blooded young Tiprsnn. was deen in forbidden tolls. Allx. herself, poor as princess could be, and willful as she was beautiful, did not care to have greatness thrust upon her. along with an Indifferent husband. But grand mamma persisted so tho wedding came off, and that in spite of a heap of dip lomatic effort to prevent it. Of the half-Russian Edinburgh prin cesses, one is Queen of Roumania at least for so long as Roumania will toler ate her new Hohenzollern king. The other is Grand Duchess of Hesse, having married her cousin, the Grand Duke Lou is, and repented it rather bitterly. The Grand Dukedoms of Hesse and Saxe-Co-burg are. for size and revenues, hardly worth reckoning, but their possessors can hold up their heads with the greatest rulers of Europe. Opportuntly considered. Queen L-ouisa. of Denmark, has distanced Victoria in the matter of match-making. She was middle-aged before her husband toegasl to relgn-he bad been poor always; she was neither 'brilliant nor beautiful be yond all that her realm was a brumma gem second-rate sort of kingdom. Not withstanding, one of her daughters. Princess Dagmar, was Tsarina; one of her grandsons Is Tsar of .U the Rus-s-.as; her daughter. Alexandra, will " be Queen of England; her third daughter, Thyra, Duchess of Cumberland, is mis tress of tht greatest private fortune in Europe. Of her sons, the Crown Prince, who will reign after his father, married one of tne enormously rich Bourbon princesses; the second of them. Prince George, married a Russian Grand Duchess, and became King of Greece. Thus it will be seen, that through a progeny far less numerous. Queen Louisa can fairly reckon thrones wiih Queen Victoria. In the final accounting, when the balance sheets of ages come to ad justment, it will be not a tfttle curious to discover how far the personal equation, as represented by these two ah-matoh-makers. goes ahead of the wiles of states men, and the deep-laid ich.mes of diplo macy. A Sinmcoc Superstition. All women of the tropics fade early, but none more quickly than the women of Siam, and this chiefly for two reasons. They aro really very pretty as young girls, and, seldom or never growing stout, they should retain their beauty for a long period, and would do so were It not for somo of their customs and supersti tions. The most promiscuous of theso is the treatment of a woman who has just be come a mother. A fire to which she Is entirely unaccustomed In that hot climate is immediately lighted in her room, near the bed, and kept burning without inter mission for two weeks. This is done for the purpose of exorcising demons and evil spirits, and very often results in ex orcising the spirit of the poor little wo man herself. The heat of her room dur ing her entire Illness is simply Insup portable, and where it does not produce fatal results tends to undermine the strongest constitution. As the girls mar ry when very young, they are likely to be old women long before they are thirty. Then the disgusting habit of chewing the betel nut, combined with the fact that they have no dentists, transforms the originally pretty mouth of the Siamese woman into a hideous spectacle. They first smear a seri-leaf over with quick lime and then wrap In it a piece of the betel nut. very much as one rolls a cig arette; and they are rarely seen without a piece In their mouths. The Siamese women have a curious way of carrying this narcotic about with them. They have their ears pierced exactly as the women of other nations pierce theirs for the purpose of wearing earrings; only Instead of donning jewels mey suck into the perforations the stems of several of these prepared leaves. One may frequent ly see them starting off for a chat with their neighbors, their ears quite over loaded with their favorite refreshment. The "VVliirisrlg: of Time. Mary had a little lamb, Its fleece was white as now; And everywhere that Mary went The lamb wa3 sure to go. Us fleece is still as white as snow, But Siary's lamb has grawn; And now she'd rather walk three miles ran face that lamb alone. -Truth. A HDTDXT HIGH PRIESTESS. An American Sirnuil of an Ancient Indian Order. There is no ground too sacred for tha American woman to tread, not holy of ho lies too awe inspiring for her to pene trate; as witness the first of her race, and only the second woman west of tha Orient was tho other day In Chicago cr dained as a Swami, which, according to the tenets of the Hindoo religion, consti tutes her a god. Mrs. L. V. Comer, who was, tha Swami Shraddananda. that la, was inducted into this philosophy and initia ted Into the order by the Swami Abhay ananda, the first woman, and. Indeed, the first person of the Western World, to be thus exalted. Swami Abhayananda la a keenly Intel lectual Frenchwoman, who had for muny years been a student oc philosophy, when the famous Vlvekanaada came to tBls country to represent the Hindoo faith at the World" i Congress of Religions. She lost no time in placing herself under bis tutelage, and later became a priestess of the Oriental cult, which Is. by the way. the oldest order of monks in the world, and of Hindoo origin. In order to become a member of this body one is supposed to have passed through some extraordinary spiritual ex periences, and by study and meditation to have arrived at that high state of soul development, where all desires for wealth, power and fame vanish, and all Ideas of separateness or attachment to personalities are merged into the infiinlle. One then voluntarily relinquishes family and name, and takes upon himself or her self the vows of celibacy, continence, pov erty, non-resistance and service to all be ings of the universe. Swami Abhayananda came to America when a young woman though she- still speaks English with an accent and lived for many years In New York, where she was initiated into her mystic faith. This Imposing ceremony has, by the way, nev er been performed in Europe. For some time she taught in New York, but come to Chicago two or three years ago, where aha continues to be at the head of th,e order in this country. Shu has quite a large following in the Western city, and may be found at almost any hour in the rooms of the Adwaita Society, on Twenty fourth Street. One cannot look at this nobly propor tioned French woman, with her fine, strong, expressive face and distinctive personality, and not be convinced of her power; nor come to comprehend the s&n plicity of her life and environment with out feeling that In espousing poverty and service she has in reality eliminated, from, life half of its wearisome details. Her iron gray hair, for instance, fram ing her face- with Its full pompadour, need never give her an Instant's uneasi ness as to how she will wear it. nor con sume any time in its arrangement, while her costume gives that delightfull free dom from the multabillty and exactions of fashions that goes with the adoption of any simple uniforms, besides which it is very pretty, and if one may judge from the two this side the Orient who have donned it universally becoming. The robe Is always of ochre hue sig nifying the purification by tire. It i3 made in something the form of a scant princess open all the way down but held In place by buttons, and reaching to within two or three Inches of the floor, a convenient walking length and quite effective with tan shoes. If buttoned to the right It signifies that one is a Brah man; otherwise it may indicate some other branch of religion. In this country, of course, one must use such materials as are at hand, and soft cashmeres and crepons seem, the most suitable. Hindoo beads, also of ochre, are worn on occa sions and add a certain air of mysticism to the costume. Ono might conclude that the robe as a whole was intended to stand for comfort, but instead It symbolizes universal love. It is fitted loosely to the figure and Is girdled with a silken sash wound twice around the waist to signify twlc born. One end of the sash is made into a bag signifying forestry; this was originally for the convenience of the founders of the order who dwelt In forests and used It as the receptacle for their scanty fare. In those days, however, the sh was probably not made of silk, aiwl certainly in these days the monks, male or feraIe, do not take to the woods, but Hve In comfortable homes and are evidently suffi ciently well fed. My curiosity was piqued as to the ways and means in which one who has taken the vows of poverty manages thai part of the program, sinoe in this practical age food and shelter are unlortuaately not secured without money and without price. I found that the Swaral preaches, teaches, holds classes and meditations, etc.. and the followers of her cult eon tribute what they choose to her support. "How Is It, Swami Abhayananda." ask ed the worldly Interviewer, "that the idea of equal rights came to percolate this ancient order? When were women first admitted to its mystic rites?" "Ah. madam." replied the Swami. "in the world of the spirit there is no aex. Members of our order are neither men nor women, but souls. Sex is but a phe nomenon, a mere wave upon the surface. while the soul Is the deep, quiet, change less ocean that exists from century to century, now In one form, now in another. You may be a man la one incarnation. and a woman in the next, according t the nature of your development. The duties. for instance, who mark fhe degeneracy of this generation, will be women in their next incarnation, and women of a low Gir der of intelligence, too; while the strong, stalwart, earnest women of today. Hke Susan B. Anthony and Julia Ward Howe, will be men and leaders of men in their next stage of development. Women as such have never been recognized by this order; but any human creature who has become dead to the world and desires to live after the spirit, has been welcome to the brotherhood from its moct ancient days. There Is no distinction in the cos tume. We are all monks and wear the ochre robe." "Have many Indian women joined the order? "I believe not a large number." "Does your renunciation bring happi ness?" "We at least attain peace and liberation. Attaching ourselves to nothing, we are never forced to detach ourselves from anything, and the ordinary cares and struggles of human life do not toueh us." "But one must live." was Insisted. "Oh, yes: but our life is so simple that It costs next to nothing. By the spirit of our religion wo are vegetarians." "Meat is then prohibited?" "We are forbidden nothing. There is not a 'thou shalt not In our whole code. But we could not take upon ourselves the vow of service to all living belng3. animals included, and then use the lat ter as food." "Do you claim to preach Budhism?" "Our order does not acknowledge race, sex or creed, or rather, it Is the epitome of all races and" creeds. You notice there back of our altar pictures of the Christ, saints of both the Episcopal and Catholic Church, dark-hued prophets of the Ori ent. Budha. etc. Here I preach Jesus of Nazareth as he Is the manifestation ac cepted In the Western World, and indeed the highest of all manifestations; but among the same spiritual truths wth Mahomet as their exponent. Our faith is the synthesis of all religions, moralities and philosophies. That which exists is one, men call it variously. ' "What progress Is this most ancient order making in this most modern of American, cities?" "The thought is growing rapidly. The women of New York were inclined to take up the study of Budhistic philosophy. a3 a fad; but the women of Chicago have gone Into the subject earnestly, and are more ready to accept It as a religion." The name of the Swamls all terminate In "ananda," which signifies bliss. Ab hayananda meaning freedom and bliss; Shraddananda. the name of the new con vert, faith and bliss. Once having taken orders, the previous name and environ ment of the monk are supposed to have passed into utter oblivion. Like ' her spiritual mother, the first American, re cruit will preach and teach. The saving grace of this as of all religiona. worthy the name, is that it teaches unselfishness and universal love as the highest law. ? M rsra "S- ..Hjfogfcj.. 'K-