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THE TIMES, WASHINGTON, gUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 1393 TI;: FL1IEL BLOUSE Must Ee of Dazzling Tone and Daring Configuration. BOOX FKOM THE BAKKYAED Millinery Situation Snved by the , Humble Coclc nml Hen The Sea- aoii'h Colors to Me Gay and the Patterns to Be Stripe), Spot or FlnidH. New Tork, Sept. 24. Fashion, like his tory, Is guilty of repetition. A voyage of discovery through the shopping dlhtrict Is not notable for revelations and surprises. Under the very half assumption that they are strictly autumn novelties, many dear familiar objects appear; silks, vel vets and -woolen goods. They are none the less -welcome, however, because they have often been tried in the wearing and not found wanting. "A' rigid inspection of the new suitings proves that the nearest thing to a genu ine novelty is a broche cloth running the gamut 'of good colors usually in combina tion with black. If you can believe what the fabhlon prophets say the broche or figured effect in wool goods Is going to be emphasized as the season -waxes. A rough, dark blue winter serge or OTre of black, picked out In small oxblood fig ures of a geometric shape, gives you the keynote, for the tailor and dressmakers both extol its artistic worth. Next In modish value to this is a perfectly smooth goods with a melton finish, In mushroom brown dotted over by a neat -wriggling pattern in warm green or black, or sometimes the two together. If you take a dispassionate bird's-eye view of dress materials as they are dally opened for inspection and sale, you can't but come to the conclusion that we are Infor a season of color, broken color at that. Just a little less smart than the broched cloth are those in checks, while much lower down In the scale of femi nine estimation is the plain solid colored fabric She who buys a one-tone box cloth, for instance, braids it freely and very likely with a frisky loooking braid, woven or twisted in a couple or a trio of seasonable colors. This demonstration in favor of mixing the sober tones of autumn, and thereby lighting the somewhat oppressive gloom of the winter wardrobe, was never so no ticeable as in the new blouse flannels. Every season somebody hardily attempts to sound the tocsin of the shirt waist, and every season that passing belle is turned into a welcoming chime for the shirt waist, long life to it, was never in finer fettle than Just now. -Flannels and goods, especially woven for blouses, now fill a counter all to themselves, and each specimen is the tayest of the gay. Nobody who knows old styles from new will think of pur ch.ai.Ing a goods for a blouse in any uta dazzling tone or a. daring configu ration. Tyrian purple, Hungarian blue, nasturtium brown and blaze green are a few.. of the one toned flannels, so decided of tone that they would almost make old Eol wink to look on them; but for all that these colors are becoming, and you can buy them modulated by close set em broidered dots in black silk. Much more popular than the above mentioned are the striped and speckled flannels made up, as in fact nearly all these woolen blouses now are, with great art and elaboration. Last season we were very content to revel in blouses of puri tan simplicity of design; we are far more exacting now and the blouse that wrings admiration from the most unenthusiastlc goes In for character of Its own. It has an ear-lipping collar or none at all, a fancy front or is brave with "braiding. Some there are that are made with yokes and some with vests, and In all these mazes of variation the velveteen and cor duroy, .shirt waist Is Its flannel sister's faithful follower. AT 'last the tragedy, always more or less imminent concerning the placket hole, is disposed of, and every woman who cannot remember to hook this open ing in her skirt should have her petti coats cut on the new tailor mode; that is to say, with the placket hole buttoned securely up. According to the highest authority in skirt topography, the open ing in that garment should be made in front and a little to the right side, ju3t where the seam of the front width runs up. This leaves the back of the skirt to be shaped fashionably plain or pleated in a. little and Innocent of any rear open ing at all. This change of base for the placket has come about by reason of the new mode of glove-fitting the tops of all skirts, and the placket's location In the front is neatly concealed by a short row of small ornamental buttons or a careful adjust ment of braid lines. Probably never be fore in the history of dressmaking have skirts been so scant as this year. They simply have no fullnes at all except a slight spreading effect In the rear and below the knees. Such a result is obtain ed by artful sloping and goring, and thus ample freedom in walking is allowed, though a skirt that boasts a circumfer ence of three yards is a very, very wide one. Indeed. Candor compels the admission that Frenchy and striking as this mode may be. It does not enlarge the reputation of the feminine sex for beauty of form. Just about one woman in three hundred can wear this new skirt and rejoice the eyes of the onlooker; the other two hundred and ninety-nine will be a sore trial to thelr'frlends, for she who is the least bit too broad in the beam and she who has been given by Providence -what are known as Japanese hips, cannot profit by this novel and severe cut. Continue, if you desire to be In the van of the style, to leave your rear widths a trifle long, that is, at a fanlike spread beyond the heels, and do not make the base of the skirt too crisp with hair cloth. A three-inch Interlining will do. Among the so-called novelties are silks of divers weaves and colors, displaying every possible arrangement in Bayadere stripes. The novelty really consists in the stripes themselves, that arc of velvet and wide, or narrow, or running In groups, bpaced generously and always In bright contrast to the silk above which they are raised. A deep olive green silk, for example, will be barred with one wide, ruby red velvet stripe between two very nar row ones of pale green. A cream white peau de solo shows stripes of turquoise blue and coral pink velvet, and a pale gray amure displays stripes of finely figured velvet. In gray and pale blue. It does not require great strength of imagination to picture the beauty of these fabrics when worked up Into handsome evening toilets. Most chaste of all, in their splendor, are the mate rials for brides cream and lily white moires, satins and grain silks, each and every one striped the width of the goods with fine grouped lines, or broad spaces of white velvet. Most choice nnd rich in effect is the Bayadere striping on black silk and satin, and it Is no surprise to see a deal of this handsome material used in hat trim ming. Evidently the slaughter, two years ego, of the songsters was as thorough going in Its way as the massacre of St. Bartholomew, for now that wings and tails, breasts and stuffed heads are once more the mode, there seems no market to draw upon. There Is surely no doubt that plumage is the most de sired hat garnishment, but the mil liners show a sorry array of all save ostrich feathers. The honest barnyard fowl is rushing Into the breach gallantly, but only the wings ere really worth while, and there is In consequence the greatest quantity of ugly, clumsy manufactured plumage, cooked up from wire frames, , lace, Jute chenille and "gpanglesrfnTiC "serves as a poor substitute indeed. The only pretty things in a feathered way are the white ostrich plumes -and down -tufts touched with gray and black that seem prepared for a season of well-earned usage. Most charming are the tufts of small snowy plumes, powdered in very small black polka dots, dyed in the white. Another plan is to dye only the quill and spine of the plume black, else to dash the white feather with flicks of gray. "White duck wings are similarly spotted, greatly to their enhancement in decora tive quality, but for all this black and white Is not the ruling combination in hat architecture. It Is difficult to say just yet what is. There is in millinery as in dressmaking no modesty In color, and some of the dell- cate capotes for theater wear are gay to the point of frivolity. A round turban of black tulle will have a half dozen wings, bright cerise In tone, springing up from and bending down against the hair auda ciously; a violet toque of little corporal shape may have its points finished by a knot of white ostrich tips that flt down over the wearer's ears like delicate protec tors against frost bite, and a third pretty creation is like as not to be a jeweled Juliet cap with a fountain of long white osprey springing high on one side. Thus by contraries the small hats seem to be designed. Hats for morning street wear are still going through the process of evolution, and some of their phases are decidedly commendable. The favorites In this class are rough surfaced felts that is, the crown Is rough and the brim smooth, and if one Is light brown the other is a much darker tone. A felt band is passed about the crown, and a couple of quills are fast ened on one side by the means of their sharp-pointed ends being thrust once or twice through the felt. Ono can either mash In the soft top, being suro to give it a circular dent, or leave it stiff and smooth. The point to bo emphasized is that you are not wearing an Alpine. All these new felts are quite round, and some of them are so arranged that the wearer can change the cock of the brim at will. For autumnal golfing the proper wrinkle is to buy a soft olive brown or grease tumbler, as it Is called. This has no stiffening or binding to the brim. Tho pliable crown is given a round dent and girdled by a red silk handkerchief, picked out with black polka dots. Tied round so that the knot comes in front, a pretty small silver pin is thrust through knot and felt, and then the brim is turned high up behind and correspondingly low In front over the eyes. An autumn with imitation jewels left out will now be welcomed in. Even the furs and the belts to lack their custo mary ornamentation, though Jewels that are genuine will be -as faithfully worn as ever, and especially in all manner of neck decorations. The woman who boasts a half dozen throatlets of pearls or diamonds will show her knowledge of tho mode by wearing them all at once and bogus pearls have happily lost none of their popularity. Women whose throats are not without blemish and who wish to hide hollows In their collar bones can do the Job very neatly by bringing as many as three yards of pearls about the throat and over the shoulders until this gleam ing armor generously blots out all na ture's errors. Young women whoso round, white necks and perfect shoulders are their especial prldo. wear, tied about the throat, the n-rowest bit of black baby velvet ribbon that can be had, on which a very small heart of diamonds Is strung. The heart is so made of dazzling, close-set little jewsl that no metal ehows anywhere, while another pretty method Is to string on the ribbon a lozenge of brilliant black enamel, with a small heart outlined on It in diamonds. The whole ornamentis no larger than a twenty-flve-cent piece, but the effect against very fair skin causes compli mentary comment. Women who are not In mourning and love the wearing of jet have adopted the pretty fancy of adorn ing themselves 'with elaborate Jet neck laces. With high-necked gowns, these are worn wound four times about the throat and falling In three loops on the breast as low as the waist line. Jet beads, elaborately cut and as big as mar rowfat peas, compose these chains, and every bead is separated from the other by a small, thin disk of crystal, very highly cut and polished. In the family of six autumn shirt waists displayed, one of them is green cashmere flannel, with a small, straight Inner vest of red silk. Rows of small tucks edge the A-est, and by a series of pretty link buttons the fronts are held in place over the vest. A red silk tie knots over the turn-over collar of green, and the full sleeves have clusters of tucks running their length. What tucks alone can do is shown by another waist of Hungarian blue flannel, striped perpendicularly with close set tucks, sewed down with bright yellow silk. A soft four-ln-hand of blue silk dotted with yellow clasps the neck band. A study in revers of checked red and white silk against a dull green background Is shown In the fourth figure, while the fifth and sixth waists are of velveteen, one Tyrian purple and the other heather gray, trimmed with gilt and silk braid. The last in the list is fastened behind, and boasts no collar at all. A Helpful Guest. "When you visit your friends, try to pay for your board by being a helpful visitor," says Alice H. Poore In the La dles' Home Journal. "I do not mean that you are to pay In dollars and cents. Your entertainers gives to you that which can not be measured or handled. I know there is joy in giving, hoping for nothing in return, and a hostess, if she be one in .he fullest sense, bestows far more than food upon her guests. She gives to them free entrance to one of the most sacred shrines upon earth the home. Do not fail to show that you are appreciative of the efforts made for your comfort and pleasure. If you do this in a sincere and pleasing way, it will carry you far into the good graces of your entertainers. Said a friend to me not long since: "I visit a great deal often without hope of entertaining my friends In return. I am not brilliant, but I can make buttonholes well, and I am pretty sure to discover that that Is something my friends dislike to do for themselves.' Now, the spirit which prompted the little buttonhole maker was better than the work itself, and both would be appreciated by any busy hostess." SKETCHING ON WHEELS. Valuable Siifrg-cHtion for , Artist Seclcinjr Plnln Air Effect. As. a group of festive picnickers vere passing some of the most picturesque and lovely spots on Rock River, 111., a few days since, they descried a curious look ing object In the distance. It seemed to be a wagon, yet not all a wagon. It was certainly mounted on wheels and a com fortable looking bay horse was grazing under a tree at a little distance; but ev ery here and there were extraordinary excrecences. Someone ventured to suggest that It might be a pop-corn roaster and soda fountain combined, but was met with the SM ART ATJTTJ2HN jeering retort that one would hardly se lect a cool sequestered dell for setting up In such a business. On nearer approach It became evident that two women were engaged in some sort of occupation with in the inclosure. "Well, if they are only women," ex claimed one of the party, "I am going to satisfy my curiosity," and she boldly ad vanced to the subject of debate. What she found was in reality a per ambulating studio, invented by one of the artists at work Inside, who had be come soul-and-body-weary of dragging around stool, umbrella, easel, camera, paint and brushes; of having to seek shelter when it rained; of being obliged to remain Indoors when It was cold; of enduring the heat, cold and moisture of the ground; and what is worse working In Its reflected light, and a thousand other Ills that only out-of-door artists know. In view of these discomforts she had designed this studio-wagon, which a car riage maker had made for her at a cost hardly above that of an ordinary wagon. It was perhaps six feet,. long, and.jfr.om two to three feet wide. In the top were two skylights with canvas sides, which could be let down when a cart, not a studio, was wanted. The bottom was neatly covered with matting and held two comfortable chairs, one back of the other, in which the two artists were sitting. In front of each chair were firm, steady rests for their canvasses. On all sides were convenient places in which to slip sketches. Slides covered with black oil cloth were at hand to slip in whenever it was desirable to shut off a part of tho light, and others of plate glass for use if one wished to paint during a storm. Perfect arrangements were made for a tiny stove, or for a lamp when only a lit tle additional heat was required. A com fortable awning spread Its wings on the sunny side on this occasion, as it chanced to be a warm day. This could be easily lifted off, folded and laid away ,ln a snug place designed for it under the wagon. A dozen other conveniences' testified lo the cleverness and ingenuity of woman when, she really sets her brain to work. In this secure retreat free from anxiety as to the wind and the weather, they could work until tired, and then instead of the weary tag home they had only to drop the skylights, fold,, away the awn ing, adjust the sides, put Jack into the cart, and then a delightful drive in the fading day. A SENSELESS TRICK. Lifting- the Eyebrows Ik Sure to BrinK: IVrinlcle. This lifting of the eyebrows is a sense less trick which is thought to give ex pression to the face. It is on a, level with the many other so-called tricks of ex pression, really nothing more than con tortions of the facial muscles. It is rare to find a woman who can carry on a con versation with an even countenance and without nods and wags of the head, says the Philadelphia Inquirer. Only the Southern women seem to thor oughly understand the meaning of the word "repose," and to carry it into every act of their lives. Repose of face, repose of manner, repose even in lhe manage ment of the voice is their charm. I re cently met a beautiful Virginian, with perfect manners and a voice whose "fasci nation I cannot describe. Her face was as smooth as that of a girl of sixteen years, yet her son was some years beyond that age. She will remain unllned to the end of her life, because she does none of those things which bring unsightly wrin kles. I used to have a habit of drawing my eyebrows together, and it was not long before I had an ugly furrow fur row, yes, two of them between my eye brows. A friend adised me to raise my brows frequently, as that would remove them, and soon I began to discern more ugly lines in a new position. I did the only sensible thing I could think of, re frain "from Doth bad habits, and allowed the skin to become smooth. A Democratic 1'rincenH. Princess Louise, Marchioness of Lome, is perhaps the most democratic of Queen Victoria's daughters, so far as such jl term can be applied to any royal princess. She has no sympathy with pretensions and affectations. On many occasions her royal highness has done things with her own hands that women whose chief claim to consideration existed in their own imagination would have rung the bell for a servant to do. Once when visiting the schoolroom of a certain little lady who had very exalted ideas of her own rank, she discovered that affairs between pupil and governess were a. little strained. The princess inquired of the governess the cause. The little lady at once sure of the right on her side, burst in with: "Miss F. wanted me to clean my slate. Surely a duke's daughter need not clean her own slate!" "Miss F. is quite right," said the princess. "I am the Queen's daughter, and I always cleaned my slate." Once the princess was presiding at a committee meeting, and when leaving the house where it was held the hostess dropped her bangle. She was politely waiting until the princess had passed to pick It up, but to her surprise Princess Louise stooped, picked It up and gave it to her, saying simply, "I might have trodden on your pretty bracelet.' The dignity of royal ladies depends upon other things than small observ ances, although In the matter of etiquette they are all past mistresses when occa sion requires. Baltimore True American. AN OBDINAItjx-.WOMAN. There Im Xo Sdih (Creature in the AVorld. Some mistaken creature man, of course has stood himself qn a platform and charged an audience 'money for telling them that the new. wr&nan does not begin to compare with those ancient heroines who figure in tho Bible and the early his tories of the worldj -jHe calls the lot of us "ordinary creatures, 4nd that's where he makes his mistake. Women there are, with intellects that shine out with the steady glare of a locomotive headlight, and women again with wits as small and uncertain as tho fllqkerlngs of a blue headed match. Sandwiched between the extremes is a world full of every sort SHIRT WAISTS of woman under the sun, except the "ordinary creature," and you won't run across her from now till doomsday, for the simple reason that she does not, and never will, exist. Take any woman you aro thrown with say the one you most love or despise flt her Into the required circumstances, and I dare you to deny that she has teem ing within her the making of history, good or bad. For history will insist on repeat ing itself, and Joan, who led the armies of France; Agnes, who bowed her neck to a pagan sword, and Tarpeia, who sold her Rome for gold, still live and have their nature's being in the "ordinary creatures" of today. A WEDDING GOWN. And How the Ilriile Came to "Wear It. This is a story about a roll of Chinese crepe. There lives in this city the widow of a naval officer, who is not a society woman In the accepted sense of tho term, but whose name is registered In the annals of heroes who died for their country's good. She Is a childless woman, and, except for an ancient colored woman and her clove-colored grandson, lives near George tow n qulto alone. At the time of her marriage she pos sessed a friend, who alsfo loved the young officer and who afterwards married a merchant, who died, leaving her a daugh ter and debts. ' As this widow had never forrivnn it- successful rival, and the other could nev- I er torgei, it nas happened In all these years they have never exchanged visits nor bowed In passing. Last winter, how ever, the officer's widow found herself shopping at the same counter with the other woman, who, unaware of her pres ence, was deep in a troubled consulta tion with her daughter, and the other heard every word. "There is no use talking," said the young girl, finally, in a voice that trem bled with distress. "I will Just have to wear a traveling dress, and all my life I have planned to be married in white." By that time the listener had heard enough to justify her In doing what some good people might call a quixotic, but certainly was a very graceful, deed. She went straight home and going to a padlocked trunk, unlocked and lifted from its perfumed depths a bundle wrap ped in linen, which she tearfully unpin ned. It was a bolt of snowy canton crepe, that her husband h ad brought her from China his last gift and that she held it sacred is easily understood by those, like her, who revere their dead. That evening she carried It to the home of tho merchant's widow, and a month later when the daughter became a bride the society columns were enthusiastically de scriptive of her gown of Chinese crepe. ABOUT ANKLES. Do You Know Their Shape Depends on Shoes? "For the last few months I have been tiylng to find out whatever has happened to my ankles they are simply awful," said a pretty tailor-made girl to an at tendant in a fashionable shoe store, as he unfastened her dainty slipper. "In the first place," she continued, "they are nearly twice the size they were three months ago. All shapeliness has disappeared. I am not exactly vain, but I have always prided myself on having a lather neat ankle. At first I thought my ankle was merely swollen, but It did not resume its natural shape and gave me no pain, and I began to worry. Last night my brother happened to see my ankle, and he said, 'Why, Nellie, you have an ankle like a washerwoman.' Now. 1 couldn't stand that. I made up my mind to come right here to see you. I- think these slippers you sold me are the cause." "So do I," said the attendant, gravely. "Well," replied the girl, flushing with anger, "how dare you sell slippers, and then actually acknowledge that they are not properly made!" " "I did not Eay that," answered the at tendant. "I said that they were the cause of your ankle "enlarging. You see, they are strapped over the Instep, press ing down the arched flesh, which, natur ally seeking an escape", crowds against the ankle. The ankle has no support, and the entire weight of ,T.he body rests on it. AVhat wonder, then, that the poor, dainty little ankle becomes large and protrud ing? I can always tell by a woman's foot whether she is in the habit of wear ing shoes or slippers. There is a well known Delsarte teacher, a customer of the store, who has one of the most beau tiful pairs of ankles in New York, and she has never worn a slipper in her life. She claims that a well fitted shoe "not only Incases and supports the ankle and instep, but assists in firmness and elas ticity in walking." Blusliingr in Order. King Solomon has just been contradicted by that irascible old French chemist, Baubet, who claims to have discovered something new under the sun. It is a colorless rouge that shows no tint until the wearer compresses her lips, when a faint glow will flush the cheek and fade or deepen, according to the pressure brought to bear. Baubet, who owns to hating women, and gloats over the for tune ho has coined from the vanity of the sex, calls his latest Invention the "twen tieth century blush," and cluims for It that when properly regulated It will ex press every emotion the new woman can find use for, from the peach pink of maid en bashfulness to the peony red fury of Shakespeare's "woman scorned."" ONE" BRIDE'S OUTFIT. Included a. Specially Favorite Per fume for Each Day. I was shown some quite fascinating sets of lingerie tho other day that had just been completed for tho trousseau of a lucky bride who is to spend her honey moon next month on the Continent, writes a London correspondent 1o tho Chicago Times-Herald. She has had all her articles of c'othlng made according to the latest dictates of fashion, of the very finest batiste, so delicate In make that It would easily slip through the proverbial "wedding ring." She has had her things arranged In seven sets, one for each day of the week, and for each day there Is a color, and there is a doz en of every garment belonging to the set. thus making several dozen of every thing a very pleasant and agreeable lit tle lot, of dainty things for underneath wear that no woman would despise. Sho has a specially-constructed trunk for the carriage of this delightful cor bellle, or rather a portion of It, for," of course, she could not travel with the en tire riches of so voluminous a wardrobe. This trunk has seven trays, and each tray is labeled with the day of the week, and as tho front of the trunk lets down these trays can be pulled In and out as If they were drawers, and without disturb ing the upper or lower trays. To add and enhance the originality of her trouseeau this bride-elect has a special silken satchet blanket for each of her seven trays In the trunk. The Sunday scent Is white rose; Monday, new-mown hay; Tuesday, violet; Wednes day, lilac; Thursday, sandal wood; Fri day, orris and Rhine violet, and Satur day, of course, cherry blossom. A BRITISH BELLE. She 1m About to Enjoy New York Society. Lady Alice Montague resembles her handsome mother, who was Consuelo Yznaga, only In her blonde coloring, her features, so say her friends, are a deli cate counterpart of the almost classically perfect outlines of her grandmother, now the Duchess of Devonshire. That is to say, her face is oval, her nose admirably straight, her eyes a faultless almond shape, and her brow low and broad. Her gray eyes are of a tone traditional in the Manchester race, and her hair tho rich abundant gold such as her mother's once was. She is a slender, delicate little person, LADY ALICE is the Lady Alice, and though her beauty is one of her strong attractions, her-great and chiefest charm Is her amiable, lova ble disposition. Only last Spring she made her debut and eve'n at the most splendid functions she wears no more costly gown than a white muslin, with tulle for great occasions. This type of costume Is not the eccentric preference of the young lady, but the result of her modest circumstances. Her mother, the duchess, is far from rich, and Lady Alice Is surely no bait for young men who wish to marry for money. The muslin gowns are, however, worn with so much dignity and sweetness, and the love'iness of their wearer is so potent, that there seams to be small doubt but that this young girl will have her choice of the best in the matrimonial market. During, the season in London Lady Alice lives in a small, pretty Tiouse with her mother, and one of the accomplish- o 0'vSt'-''' a w a f" ie;osi!clo,5u&i2LJ- ments for which she is almost famous I3 skating, an exercise that she has devel oped Into the most exquisite art. On her very small feet she wears Dutch skates, with points that curl up over the toe, and at St. Morlty, where she first learned and where many of the best skaters In Europe gather in tho Winter, she Is easily ad mitted to surpass them all. Added to this, Lady Alice is a capable horsewoman and an accomplished linguist, and her mother has promised that she shall have one season In New York society before matrimony can fix her future. JAMAICA SERVANTS. They Have Xot Their Equal In the "World. To a housekeeper who vlslt3 Jamaica the life there Is a revelation, so tranquil and harmonious Is the atmosphere of every home. Life in Jamaica has the swing of a well regulated pendulum and the ease of an old shoe. And the secret of it all Is well-trained servants. Alas! it must be confessed the Ameri can housewife makes a poor showing be side her English sister. When comparing the resources of this country with tropi cal Jamaica the humility deepens. We have deposited at our doors servants of all nationalities, but chiefly Irish. Sure ly, Irish homes and Irish mothers must supply better raw material than the Af rican slave. Yet, after a hundred years' experiment our system of domestic train ing has retrograded, while the evolution of the negro house-servant under Eng lish influences has reached a high degree of perfection. American housekeepers confess weakness and incompetency by fleeing to hotels and boarding houses, driven from their homes by careless and tyrannical hirelings. The Jamaican servant, trained accord ing to old-fashioned English methods, is steadfast, honest and thoroughly disci plined. She is early taught self-respeot of mind and body, and that she is born to work. Her mother sends her to day school and church. It is required that she be a church member, or at least a regular at tendant. She Is flogged well as a little girl for dishonesty, and learns all about the severity of the colonial law. She is early given her part of the housework to be done each day. Speed is not attempted, but quality and finish she must acquire. Many mothers apprentice their young daughters to relatives In service. For In stance, a girl of eight years Is sent to an aunt housemaid. The child is put through her paces in actual service, after receiv ing no wages other than her home, clothes and the occasional tips falling to the handy child about the pen. A charm much lacked In servants of this country is the personal cleanliness of these Jamaica girls. They carry no body odors. They are scrupulously neat in hab its and dress, particularly about their un derclothes. Their petticoats are as crisp and snow-white as soap, elbow grease and sunshine can make them, and always as stiff as boards. Their stockings are darned. Their heads tidy. One particular slant, or-failing, is theirs the best of house servants will wear a shoe that shuf fles at the heel, or, perhaps one should say, has a disposition to shuffle. This Is a trivial matter, however, compared to their atmosphere of radiant cleanliness. Aside from the home training that these girls receive, the government insti tutes include housework in their curri culums. Not far from Jamaica Is such a college for colored girls. "Shortwood" is sustained by the government, and Its teachers are Imported direct from Eng land. Here the girls from the "hills" (the country) or the city, whose parents can afford the entrance fee of 5, are given a good education. It not only Includes music, but daily practice and teaching In all branches of housework. When these girls finish they either become teachers, live at home, or marry few go ing directly into service, but all capable should fate reverse their fortunes. The kindergarten department, however, provides the nucleus of domestic bliss. This department is available only to or phans or half-orphan girls, and" house- rkSiAAJeAJ &&& MONTAGUE. work is its chief study. These children are taken from the school into families for house servants, while they are still young, say eleven or twelve years old. The patron taking them promises a good home and kindly treatment. If she is not satisfied she must return the child to the Institute. These girls make the sort of servants that live with a famlly till married or pensioned off in old age. They are the preferred stock in the mar ket of servants, tho verv hfsr hnnsn mn J chine ever known; devoted to their work. The duties of each servant are clearly defined, and though the maids saem never ' to hurry, their work is turned off with apparent ease before the heat of the mid day. The average household has three I servants. The cook attends to all of the kitchen work, and in the city homes docs the marketing. She never goes Into the house even in emergency. She prepares food In the most delicious fashion, and with, a fund of receipts. Intricate 'or sim ple; at her finger's end, nas no need, or cookery bcoks. if Indeed she ever saw the cover of one. A cook usually ties a largo handkerchief tightly about her head with the corners arranged fh foset'to style in front. Thl3 is her insignia of office. Turbans she taboos. They aro worn only by the field hands. Tho housemaid attends to the actual chamber work. She cares for the upper: floor, the sleeping apartments and tho lower story, except the dining room and pantries. She polishes all of the floors, and with a rhythm, too. Housemaids take great delight in playing a sort of clog dance with their cocoanut brushes, especially If a guest Is within hearing. It Is her duty to wash the windows, dust the rooms. She Is expected to have all of her work done and be out of the houso by 10 o'clock, or not later than 11. every morning. The midday hours she has for washing her own cloths or mending or tidying her room, and after luncheon she dons a white cap and apron, previously, wearing a gingham apron. The waitress attends to the dusting of the dining room, sets the taKe. cares for the silver, glass and linen, and serves at meals. She also keeps the pantries, at tends to the candles or lamps and some times makes the beds, or assists the housemaid If necessary. At bed time she takes up her night tray a tray with the whisky decanter, syphon of seltzer, a pitcher of water, and some tumblers. This she deposits on the master's bedside' ti& ble. Then she makes the beds ready for the retiring. It is a saying among house maids when the tumblers are discovered unusued of a morning, "Keep clear, mast ter"s tumblers were dry," In a tone of warning sufficient for the wary. From the time she gets out of bed till she retires she Is never seen wltheut her cap and apron, else she goes out fer her own pleasure. She Is the artist of the servant world. She can rub white spots from the mahogany breakfast table with a mixture of vinegar and sweet oil ami heap of elbow grease, or chill champagne to perfection. She it is who turns lady's maid when necessary. She can shampoo one's hair to that most delightful point of fluffiness, or give one an Ice pack like a trained nurse. And always with some homely panacea for every ache or pain. She Is a walking household companion, indeed, for all domestic needs. House servants have no specified day out. When their work is done their time Is their own. They must only say to their mistress that they wish to go ant. If she is entertaining unexpectedly that day the leave Is postponed. A maid never leaves any work undone for an outing", nor expects a holiday on general prinei ples. Laundry work for the family Is usually done away from the pen, unless a larger force of servants Is kept, when there Is a laundress for this work. Otherwise wo men living at their own homes do most of this work. They wash out of doors and have a large white flat stone known as the bleachstone. After washing and rub bing the clothes well by hand, they put them, well soaped upon this stone, ad either use a jet, as they call the hose, er dash water from buckets over the clothes. The clothes are actually washed twice, and rinsed three times before they are wrung out by hand, and hung upon the wire line or small trees about the yard. When these clothes are bone dry, they are starched. This can be done, as there is never need of haste. , A cleaner wash was never known, thanks to the slow, thorough process and the fresh air and sunshine allottedto them. These washerwomen do up laces exquisitely, and delight In fussy" gar ments. They are expert ironers. They use starch more freely than our women, especially In the linens, and are more generous bluers, but their clothes are beautifully sweet smelling. No atmos phere of bam and eggs and clay pipes Is returned with the family wash-;- A torn garment is a disgrace and iron inst or slack Ironing are things never men tioned. The wages for servants vary according to the size of the family and the amount of work required. In a family of three, where three servants are kept, a waitress is paid usually from S to 9 shilllngsa. week $2 to $2.23. The housemaid's wages would be 8 shillings" and the cook-wuJd receive 10 shillings. When a butler Is, em ployed he receives about 14 shillings . This Income Is nearly doubled by tips. It Is a time-honored custom with guests to tip the house servants usually no ti leas than a shilling each, and much more if some special service has been rendered. There is very little changing about among maids, a service in one family of Ave or six years being the rule. By-law a notice of two weeks Is required. The maids take great pride In their referenes and keep the written certificates of their character to their dying day, even though they marry or leave service. The laun dress charges about 3 shillings a dozen. A most elaborate gown will be 2 shillings. In speaking of pens I mean the home steads just out of the city proper. Like our Southern plantations, they include a variety of different sized buildings. The dwelling house, including all of the living rooms, Is usually square, with wide veran das. The kitchen is detached from the main house, except for the short-covered porch, or walk, which leads Into the back pantry, or perhaps a hallway. In the back pantry is the meat safe and the safe for vegetables for immediate use. The Ice vault is always five or six feet from the floor. A crane Is used, and the Ice Is raised by pulley suspended from the ceil ing and lowered Into the vault. The safes are what we term cupboards, with wire screening at the sides and door. The servants' quarters are built under separate roofs, sometimes in cottage styla or two-story structure. When there Is a bungalow near the entrance to the grounds it is occupied by the butler and family. It is. In fact, the lodge, and If two-storied the gardener has the lower floor. The bathhouse Is near the mum house, and has a large marble tub. which is kept snow white: the floors are csment ed. Hot and cold water Is piped In the bathhouse of the modernized pen. Some times It is fetched In buckets. The wash house or laundry Is on the far side of the kitchen. It is also supplied with runnings water, and has soapstone tubs. Beside these buildings are the sprinhouse. woodhouse, and the usual complement of a plantation. After the day's work Is over the ne groes come up from the fields, and tho girls "sit 'round" and go over the day's gossip. If the least pretext offers dreams are the subject of conversation, and all sorts of meanings attributed to them, for Jamaica negroes are highly superstitious. To dream of being turned into fishes means trouble to somebody, sure. To ba turned into an alligator means sickness in the household. To be pursued by an, alligator forewarns the dreamer that he Is the intended victim of some malady. And to see the man in the moon means death to somebody in the pen. If he car ries a bundle of wood on his shoulder it means sudden death. I met a waitress who, for the first time in her life, saw the man in the moon with hl3 bundle. This she related to the cook before retiring. That night a friend slept with the waitress, who awakened her with streams of fear for the alliga tor which pursued her, she thinking her self turned into fishes. The friend, an older woman, said: "I know something will happen this very night!" And hardly were they awake, when they heard a bungalow, and rousing the butler, hurried him to the house. His master was in flames. His night shirt sleeve had caught In the candle while he was reaching for a prayer book, and being practically an invalid, he had been unable to extinguish the fire. The fire was soon out, and the master lived two days. But had it not been for the superstition of the waitress he would doubtless have been hurned to a cinder before help arrived. Fiancially Weak. (From the Chicago Record.) "Madam, jou've already overdrawn your te- count." "What's that!" "You haven't any more money in the bank." "The idea. A fine bank, I think, to be. out of money because cf the little I've drawn! Well, I'll go somewhere else." . ..