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THE TIMES, WASHINGTON, SIHEDAY, OCTOBER 22, 1899.
A DELICATE DEBOMTE She Will Now Proceed to Rival Her Aihielic Sister. Stssowy Siej OirlH 3Iay Give Up Rolf Slteks Hrt U-Hrn to Smoon . ivitu the Kknc f n old-Fashion- 'when she assumed her chair in the front ed Novel HcrfllHc IIww Some ,; the box. the Iticli Aew Vrkr Dress. KKW YORK, Oct- 21. The golf-playing moiety gbi is no more. .This winter the firi'mMKrij feminise, shrinking, clinging. jasRl -tainting, and qoiddjr-movcd-to-tears yoaag woman Is the mode and the social newer. If von have a debutante dauarhter a tt - m.M v j.. nw . " . """" """ ""J ""v- ; Mrs. lleury Clews, by even her closest wearing broad-nibbed shoes, encouraging a i rivals, is admittedly the most richly dress wBlrwM cntor.and a big waist, took out for ' ed woman in the box-going sisterhood, her ftrtare. Men and society at large have nd through a strong glass from a gal ii,i,, I, - ., ,, mt ,j,. i,-u,. ! ,ery or orchestra chair it is easy to under grown weary of the self-reliant, healths. , stand whercJn the great value of her cos. staewy muscled Miss Sampson. The girl tumes lies. Like the princesses in the who knows the side of her society bread on , Arabian Nights, she loves jewel-worked -which toe nutter of success and a good r cloths, and a gown woven almost wholly . .. . ., , . f solid silver and gold threads, or one of matrimonial chance lies is a perfect senei- galn encru8ted n pars is the setting she tlve plant, as frail of constitution as a oftenest uses for her unusual beauty. So vJelot. Her waist has suddenly shrunk from weighted with bullion thread and gems are twenty-si: t nineteen Inches in cireum- i e of er ball gowns that, faultless dan- lerence, her feet are no longer garbed in i pigskin hobnails, hat the highest-heeled, thtanest-seted shoes she can find, and she to able' is drift off in the most bewitching swoon when her pet dog's illness declares Itself or the dressmaker keeps her stand ing looker than three minutes at a time. She dares not trust herself beyond the lim its of her owe sitting-room without a pair j of tiny crystal jewel -topped flasks strung on her neck chain. One holds powerful I salts and the other soi volatile, and the j men who became proficient in carrying golf i dubs and pumping up the tires for fair damsels are now learning how to apply these two potent antidotes for fainting flts. Added to this pathetic fragility, nearly emery miss and matron in society possesses j oamcaat and particular affliction, and does wnejosra with her suffering to render it appealing and bewitching to the strong. stupid masculines who never see the In- aoeent hypocrisy under the light masque ot invalidism. Pot instance, there is one girl in New York society who has a weak ankle. It has never been so badly off as to need wnx support uuui & very nue siik. i hew and a high heeled kid tie of Cln- j dereila proportions, because its owner crotch. Such a beautiful crutch. a art treasure, with an arm rest and handle of ivory inlaid with gold and Mother of pearl, and the uprights of the crotch are invariably wound with a 1 jhnt exactly matches its proprietor s every change of costume. Of course one ort'auas" .".. to"rS her other hand on, and talk of her trouble always brings the perfectly formed suf fering ankle into momentary view, and there yon have as pretty a beginning for a love affair as ever the golf links sup ptted. A wether miss, whose most faultless fea ture m her long, round, snowy arms. always wears a two-inch wide band of 1 solid diamonds on the upper portion of her I In fact, one never knows how indispensa leeety right member. Because why? Well, ! ble this little signal is until, after having because those diamonds conceal a dreadful i once possessed one, it has been lost or mis sear received in childhood, the cicatrix of I laid. To prevent such a grievance as this, a dreadful wound that nearly cost her her j the new ones have attached to them a fine We. that since then has been a deep safety chain, similar to the ones worn on source of grief to her, and that is a scar j eye glasses, with a pin at one end which so entirely terrifying in appearance that ' fastens it to the coat. That is, men wear aettharby night nor by day is the diamond , their whistles fastened to them in this way band removed. Not one, but the majority ; and droo them in their tinnor vost mwtets ot newly budded debutantes carry each a siSc enclosed, violet scented down pillow to chuich and theatre, and when driving end calling. This little pillow is about twelve laches square and bears the owner's fatriela hi embroidery la one corner, and j Its purpose fc to protect a neuralgic ahoul- j dor. The pillow must be placed exactly over the excitable nerve of the left shoul der, else a draught creeps in and a killing headache is the result. The country house party season is still ware open, ana roe meeuugnt ntgnts are azfttsed to their fullest extent to satisfy the demand of the young people for picnics r ., I of a kind that have rarely proved to be other than successful in this their initial season of adoption. In reality they are lan tern nutting parties, and are so carefully pre-arranged that it rsqnires a well-equip-pea hostess to provide one. In a country house where a dozen guests of both sexes are visiting, the hostess sends her men oervants twenty-four hours in ad- of the entertainment to scour the and find and mark the trees that the best crop of ripe 'nuts and in a choice spot in the forest a clearing is made, and there the men collect and heap fagots scieatincaUy. knock up a few rough tables swot the bonfire, roll up stumps and logs tor seats, and set up staples and dig pits for cooking food, and on crisp, dry, moon light evenings a couple of coaches drive the guests to the woods. To every woman in the party an agreeable masculine escort is gives, and on every pair an old style tin lantern holding an inch and a half of light ed candle is bestowed, along with a hag or basket for holding nuts. Now, the gist of (he fun is that by the dim light of Che lantern and the aid of the moon the oonnles are to hunt for nuts, finding the trees by means of white cards tacked to the trunks and trusting to sharp eyee and their training in juvenile years to secure their prises in the dry leaves. When a coach born is blown at the bon fire, everybody must answer its summons at the picnic rendezvous and have their estimated. Whichever couple the greatest number wins a prise. Desperate and heroic are the endeavors of those who struggle to get the first prize, because the inch and a half of candle burns down all too rapidly and gives light for a very little while. It is the business of one Hvoty matron with an escort to prowl about with a bull's eye lantern and fiasa ft open suspected flirtations and Jrag forth the offenders. When the coach horn calls in the last straggler, the servants touch off the big bonfire, light pine torches, and cook the gaaae and other meats for the supper ia herbeeoe fashion. 1C so nuts are to be had, the supper by torchlight is carried out just the same smsbed down with cider, and on some oc casions oysters, potatoes, etc., are roasted by the women in the ashes of the big cans ire and the servants are left at home as formal nuisances, that contribute to nobody's pleasure. Br thefr individualities in dress may an observant person distinguish the great la dles of the land. A stranger in New York, tor exasanle, who drops in at the Metro politan of a gala night, won't hare the dlnculty in picking out the fair hostess In the Astor box. This is Mrs. Jack ts always the most plainly gowned woman in the horseshoe ssflaxy of beauty. Perfectly simple satin sad diamonds is her invariable choice. Tike satin so rich it can stand alone, of a levety shade of rose or mauvre or pale Hhse; fitting from shoulders to ankles with oex a whiff of lace or a pinch of drapery, ad the diamonds never mixed with pearls or colored stones, but massed in one wave of daxxUng light over the bust and shoul ders. Spaagied and jeweled nets, price Jess Venetian point and ropes of pearl may he worn by every other rich matron, but Jars. Astor is true to her theory that a fWlocesff satin frock and the whitest of 4iaznooes display her beauty to the great est advantage- This rear Mrs. Cornelias Vanderbilt, Ota efoer, ic in heavy mourning, hut sea sew after aeasen she has been acknowl edged the possessor of the most stately eopmmoj even' seen ia the opera bouse, astte brocaded in very large and elabo rate flowers made with extensive trains, were her favorite toilets. Like Mrs. As tor ebe rarely ore any Tellings of lace, ior though r grandmother, Mre, Vander- bill's figure is as slim and straight as a girl's, and this fine feature she never al lows her dressmaker to obscure. One never ending source of interest to opera goers -was Mrs. Vanderbilt's pearls, for un like Mrs. Astor, she preferred them to dia monds, and though her evening gowns were cut decollete, her throat, shoulders and bust were absolutely clothed in first a tall pearl dog collar and then row after row of rare pink and white beads, until a com plete garap to her open necked gown was formed. There were twenty-two strings in 1 the jt one falUn lnto her lap i. wuvei ueimoni ;inu .his. ugui&b Gould can always lie distinguished in the gay opera circle by the exceedingly bril liant costumes of many mixed hues that their rich, almost uniquely Oriental, bsau ty entitles them to assume. They are the only two women who dare wear clear flame color and bright orange, and at the matinees, though in high-necked and long sleeved costumes, their jewels are as gor geous and their toilets as sumptuous as for the evening. ctri mai sue is, net muouuitu jmiuieis niiu their sinews fully tested in turning her through a waltz. Slight of figure as she is, she wears her queenly trappings as though j they were draperies of chiffon. I For her incomparable furs, if for noth j ing else, would Mrg. Stuyvesant Fish fig j ure with distinction even at the St. Peters ' burg opera house. Among her friends her . furs are variously estimated as wo.th fif teen to twenty thousand dollars, and a deli cate sight of appreciation and envy runs round the opera house when this swell iittle lady trips into her box folded in a $5,000 cape of Russian sable, trimmed about the fronts and collar with point lace nearly as valuable. When she carelessly tosses it back she invariably reveals her self clothed in Liberty satin or Chinese crepe, and the string of queen pearls about her neck that is the only ornament of its kind in the world. TJSE OF POCKET WHISTLES. T,,c' 3,nUc Acceptable Gifts for Country Krieiuls, Those who arc looking around for some little gift for a friend who lives a part or i the whole of the year in the country can , ... cot P"se "1Ui w u"" "i selecting oue of the new whistles. It is well, therefore, to bear in mind how acceptible, as souve nirs, are these trifles. Indeed, whistles are for the moment the smartest little dooda dles that are to be seen. It is astonishing how many times a day men, and women. too for n,aUen find the occasion to . H their dogs by one; sometimes their children. "That is Mary's, or Henry's whistle," is an expression heard all over the place. "When returning from a drive le. a run about or single trap, the whistle '-. a splen did means of communication vith the sta ble, and so soon as its tb; tiling note is heard, a groom comes rum Ing up to the house to be on the spot whei. he is needed. Women usually wear them suspended from the belt. The newest whistles are extremely dain ty and pretty. They are made of gold or gun metal. The gold ones are most at tractive when perfectly plain in design. some of them are quite unique in shape and suggestive of tiny toboggans. Again others are most elaborate. One that was recently seen and which had just come from London was of gun metal in the old- fashioned orthodox shape. A large spider -gg wrought upon it and the cylinder part VIc nnc.irc iw u ,.ia. t , ki. " ' "J ..." a. .... mi. ram of the spider was sunken a very large em erald. Many of them are seeen with to pazes and amethysts in the top, and they are quite enchanting. At a gay dinner party given at Lenox, hardly a fortnight ago, three of the men present took out their whistles to test the quality of I'or Hoiim- "Wear. their tone. The incident was very amus ing, and especially so as they gave out three distinct and different notes. One was horribly shrill and unpleasant- Their mu sical character should, therefoie, not be lost sight of when selecting them. Hoiv to Mnke Gooil licet Tea. Illness is a possible calamity in every house, ami one never knows when one may be called upon to undertake the duties of temporary nurse. A knowledge of how to make a cup of really good and nourishing beef tea should, therefore, lie at every woman's finger ends. First, chop very fine, or miuce with a machine, a pound and a half of gravy beef from which every par ticle of fat has been removed. Place it in an earthenware jar with a lid, add a pint of cold water, and let it remain an hour. occasionally stirring and pressing firmly with a spoon. Then place the jar, with the lid on, in a saucepan large enough to cov er it, with sufficient water to reach nearly to the Hd, but not near enough to rise above it, and enter the jar. The water in the saucepan is to be kept just under boiling point, at the corner of the lire, for three hours, adding a little water occas ionally, and when tho time has expired, tha Jar may be re moved, the beef tea drained from the meat, which Is then to be pressed closely as possible through a coarse straining cloth, so as to extract all the liquid. After standing a short time, the beef ten. will become clear, much light brown flaky mat ter falling to the bottom. By no means remove this, as it is nutritious material. JMmP life && MSRM Copyrignc, 3E3S, by S. M. Baldwin. PARIS, Oct. 6. Among the various de corations which grow more elaborate and fanciful as the season grows apaco'fringes take tho lead. They -are-'considered -just the thing to Intensify the long, slender lines of the present styles, more apparent in evening wear perhaps than on the street, for according to tho modern Parislenno's taste the evening gown must appear like a shroud, tightly enveloping tho body and caught here and there into long, flowing folds with knots of ribbon or velvet or buckles of precious stones. Beautiful, hand-made, and undulating with every movement of the wearer, these fringes lend themsolves particularly to these ideas, and as they are both novel and costly they have somewhat supplanted the omnipresent laces in the favor of the ultra fashionable. One beautiful dinner gown is an example of tho effectiveness of fringe garniture. It has a Princessc foundation of white silk, made very cling ing, and with a modified train, which is finished with a pleated flounce of white chiffon. There is a redingote made of a "filet" of netted white silk done by hand and finishing with a wide fringe. The meshes are drawn tightly over the back, but fall in graceful draperies in front and are caught with ehoux of white velvet with centres of stress buttons. The drap ery is a chef d'oeuvres of dressmaking and Is so arranged that the fringe forms a jabot at tho draped left side and also falls over the chiffon flounce of the foundation skirt. The under bodice is decollete and HALXOWEEH DEAWS NEAR. A. Mystic XiKbt When Muldons In voice tin- Future. The night of October 31 is the one pe riod in all the year when the future Is made known for is it not tho vigil of Hallowmass, or All Saints Eve? On this night, says the "Cincinnati Enquirer," above all others, spirits were supposed to walk the earth, strange dreams foretold prosperity or adversity, lovers were tested by various charms, future marriages were arranged, and the wilder the superstition the more current its belief. According to ancient tradition, that which Is human is endowed on All Halloween with the won drous power of detaching itself from the visible and allowing the spirit individuali ty to leave its house of flesh and blood and soar avsay to the redims of the Imma terial. Out of this Uiilon of spirits came the belief in the great power of divination on that night to obtain whatever was wish ed or longed for. In modern times Hallo ween has alwaj's been enjoyable becarse of the popular superstitions attaching to it. There is something attractive, especially to the young, in that which is weird and fan tastic, and a night when imagination may run riot, when any supernatural story may be believed, when faries and goblins are supposed to hold high revelry, and any ceremony, however extravagant, may be indulged in, is sure to be popular. One of the most entertaining tests of mod ern times Is the baking of a "dumb cake." By it can be learned which of a party of young women will be married first. The sterner sex is banished. A cake is mixed in silence. If anyone speaks she is thrown out of the charmed circle Sho will be the last to bo married and will make a poor match at that. When the cake is finished and set in the oven the door will open. A man will walk into the room. The girl upon whom his eye first falls will be the first led to the altar. If a young woman has the courage she may gaze upon the face of the man the gods have chosen for her. Just at 12 o'clock sho must walk backward down the collar stairs. She must be alone and have no light except the candle she carries. She must cat an apple on the way down, and on the bottom step the core must falL Then, if she raises a amnll glass winch Is fastened about her neck over her shoulder, sho will see the face ot the man who is to be all in all t her and whose dinners she must order in the future. It is not necessary to wait for tlino to illustrated by .-Felix Fournery Autumn Gown ? designed by Montaille of Paris. sleeveless, but the white silk net reaches to the neck, which la encircled by a wide collar of pearls, and the tight elbow sleeves of unlined "filet" also finish with strings ot pearls and choux of white vel vet. Tho same gown is successfully dupli cated in black silk and black "fllet" with collar and bracelets of jet. That fringes are not less effective on street costumes is proven by our illus tration. Black cloth composes this cos tume, and is lined with black satin. The serpentine flounce of black cloth is very slightly flared and is surmounted by a deep fringe of black silk with a "fllet" body, like that which figures in the description of tho white dinner toilette. Tho short j tunic of black cloth closes invisibly at the deck anu is eneircieu near tne waist line with four rows of cordings. The corded ef fect continues on tho tight fitting bodice, which closes in the underarm seam and is partly veiled by a fringe matching the one on the skirt and attached to form a point in front, while at the back It Is straight. The small double bolero follows tho lines of the fringe in front and back and is fin ished with scallops which are lined with black satin and decorated with two rows of black silk stitchlngs and small crystal buttons. The tight sleeves of black cloth are capped with satin and stitched like the bolero. The wrists are perfectly plain, but white linen cuffs are worn with crystal cuff buttons. The collar forms a bright con trast to the sombre black. It is of bright red velvet, with a stiff cravat bow of tho same, and the belt follows suit, being of red leather, closing with a crystal buckle. provo whether a Halloween wish will como true or not. A tub of water is sup plied. Two apples are secured. A wish ia made. Some one puts a tiny mark on one apple. The wisher is blindfolded, and if he is successful in biting the marked applo tho fulfillment of the vylsh is a certainty. Another entertaining way of finding out whom you are to wed is to go into a dark room and toss a ball of white or rose colored cord out of tho window, holding ono end securely tied around the third finger of tho left hand. When tho ball has reached the ground begin at once to re- Trlnimpd AVItli StlteliiiiKU. wind it, repeating the alphabet backward. Before the ball is rewound a mysterious hand will catch the trailing end. Lean out of the window and faintly ask. "Who is there?" Tho name that will be whis pered in answer will be the one you most long to hear. E. Aine Mo.vtaiixb.. The stylish hat Is of black chenille and felt braided, and is trimmed with black plumes and red black velvet ribbon. Wth ly3p,jusual figkleness, Dame Fashion leads us with a jump from multi-toned creations to dark hues and black, not with out an evident pang of regret, for even the somberest toilette is enhanced with a bit of color somewhere. Thus tho perfo rated "a jour" cloths are invariably black or dark, while the silk Hnlng3 are white or of some bright, harmonizing or con trasting shade. Capes are on a decline since the de crease of the sleeve has again brought for ward the jaunty jackets and coats which impart an air of youthfulness and a style to the figure which the capes ever failed to do. Yet there is no denying their prac ticability and pretty models for matrons or for evening wear are constantly created. They aro usually close fitting over the shoulders and finish with a long but nar row flare. Matrons are pleased at the re incarnation of tho dolman, which varies little in its present shape from that of twenty years ago. White or biscuit col ored cloth is prominent for evening capes, which are made quite long and roomy. The rage for Persian and Oriental designs has also invaded this realm. One pretty modol is mado of velvet covered with an Oriental pattern in soft, dull shades, and is finished with two very slightly flared band3 of stitched cream colored cloth, set one upon the other, like to simulate wide tucks. The high flaring collar, as well as the en tire cape, is lined with fur. FELIX FOURNERY. THE PEHPUME INDUSTRY. "Why Cannot American Women Burn Money Tliis IVnyf Grasse, In the southern part of France, Is tho centre of tho perfume industry. There the women and girls may be seen, with broad hats on their heads, gathering flowers from 5 o'clock until 11 in the morn ing, and then returning with their fragrant burdens to the houses, where they pluck tho leaves from the blossoms and pass the rest of the day in preparing them for the work of extracting the essences or essen tial oils, which contain the perfume itself. In March they begin picking violets, from which the popular violet water is made, and from the beginning of May to the end of June they gather the jessamine, roses, and orange blossoms, as well as the tuberoses in July, the mignonetto in Au gust and the cassia in September. But the maidens are not gathering blossoms to stick Into their hats or to clasp at their belts to add to personal charms; it Is their dally bread, earned In a beautiful and de lightful fashion. A breath will blow the rose leaf from you and the nimble fingers of the women must move rapidly to pluck the billions and millions of leaves that go to make up the 1,200,000 kilogrammes of rose leaves alone that are used each sea son. Besides there is a million kilo grammes of jeasamine to be plucked, and violets and orange blossoms to the extent of 2,000,000 kilogrammes a year. To give an idea of the number of plants that are raised for this huge result, it is calculated that each stalk of jessamine yields two kilogrammes of blossoms a season. So there must be at least 500,000 stalks to yield the million kilogrammes required. But the gathering of the blossoms is only the beginning of tho work, for then the flowers must be picked apart, and all of the spoiled leaves thrown aside. Then the making of the perfume begin3. The leaves are SDread one by one upon layers of pure lard that cover plates of glns3. Three or four times these flower layers are renewed before the lard has absorbed all of the perfume that It can hold, for the fat has a pocular attraction for the essential oils of tho flowers. This perfumed lard Is the "pomade" of commerce, not the pomades used for hair or beard, but the crude ma terial out of which these are afterward manufactured. The lard is then either dilppod as it Is to other manufacturers, or put Into alcohol which draws off the per fume from the fat. having a stronger at traction therefor than tho lard, and tho result is the naost eon do cologne. Xost of this pomade Is shipped as It stands to all parts of Burope and America, bet some of it Is reserved ami the oils-are extracted by distilling processes, making the purest extracts. So much for the industry which has made Grasse rich and famous. Bet in this story lies much that is suggestive for us in the United States. It is beyond question that ia many por tions of the United States, just as fine and strongly perfumed flowers can be rais ed ae in France. The varieties of roses, for instance, which are best tor making perfumes, are not the American Beauties or La France, but the commoner varieties, which will grow luxuriously almost any where in the States. It is certain that if the attention of some of our women were directed, to this matter they could earn many a dollar pleasantly by the manufac ture of perfumes. It would require no com plicated machinery to make pomade just as it is made in Grasse. The lard coald be bought and reflnde, it could be spread on the plates of glass, and it would be both pleasant and profitable to spend a few weeks in Jubo picking rosea and spreading the leaves on the absorbing rat. Then it you did not care to make the cologne your self, you could sell your pomade and get a good price for it. ONE VANITY VINDICATED. KKreti Are 'ot Injured to Snpnly Hut Ken titers. People are not always quite as cruel as they are reported. An immense amount of testimony baa been published concerning the cruel and wholesale slaughter of egrets In South America, and elsewhere to furnish plumes for ladies' headdress. Now a correspond ent, who has just returned to Bngiand from. the upper Orinoco, writes to London to say that such slaughter 'does not occur. and is not possible. The correspondent ) says: "In the first place, the birds are gift ed with long necks, and It is extremely dif ficult to approach a bird in tho daytime. even-by fraud. It has become an instinct to beware of man. In Nicaragua the only time I could by chance manage to shoot a bird was to sit under a roosting tree and pop them off as they arrived. This la only for about ten minutes; the- birds would never roost in the same tree again. My object in pointing out this is to show that by means of powder and shot no one could make it pay." The writer then goes on to say that by far "the greatest quantity of egret plumes does not come from shot birds, as I found out on the Orinoco, but hunters without powder and shot go round during the right season to the breeding and roosting grounds and collect off the ground plumes which are cast by the males every year. The only thing necesary is to pick them off the ground as soon as possi ble. I learned from an authentic hunter that as many as forty pounds were thus collected from, one spot. Again, in Vene zuela many people are beginning to farm the birds. It is marvelous how easily they are domesticated. In Nicaragua very few houses are without one or two, and this on the banks of their native lake where they go down to bathe. They never leave a yard when once accustomed to it, and are very useful for killings all sorts of v-rntin, rats, etc. On my homeward trip down the Orinoco I was fortunate enough to meet two hunters (both Frenchmen) who had been some time up country collecting feath ers. They each had, I should imagine, 100 pounds, and this without killing one single bird." NEIGHBOR CXTJB DINNERS. A Unique Idea. Evolved, lty YomifiT Sulturlinn llousoUecpess. A new idea is meeting with favor among the young men and women of certain sub urban districts. The young wives of a long block of houses have clubbed together and hold meetings several evenings a week, at which they are joined by their hus bands. The meetings take place in turn at the dining table of each member, where they have a merry time as well as a hearty meal, and nil is arranged so as not to in convenience anybody. Instead of one house keeper having to provide the dinner, each member is allotted at the former meeting to furnish some special dish for the next repast. As a result of this method the greatest care is exercised by each one in preparing a single article of food or direct ing its preparation, so that the diaaers A Sersre Bodice. comprise the best of everything. At the appointed hour the members, as they arrive, hand their neat little pack ages to the hostess for that evening, and amuse themselves while the different courses of the meal are prepared for ser vice. The fact that young housekeepers have a better appetite for the cooking of others Is taken advantage of by the Neigh bor Club and is apparent at meetings. Be sides promoting sociability, competition in cooking results, and the discussion of cook ing method's and recipes forms a consider able part of the conversation. The clear ing up after the meal is quickly accom plished by all hands taking part, and the young women soon adjourn for the evening to the company of their husbands in the parlor. Ilntiil-Mitilc Hirils. Let -a note be made of the startling birds' heads that are seen on some ot the model hats from Paris. No fowls that ever flew by land or sea wore such beaks, eyes, topknots, crests, and sinuous necks as these very evidently man-made creatures display. They are wonderful examples of manufacturers' imaginations, and not lack ing at all In artistic beauty and ornamental value. Some of the cruel-looking beaks are made ot polished tiger claws, the necks ringed with brilliant fish scales to imi tate bright f lathers, and the eyes are often bits or shining red, green, or blue enamel surrounded with quite infinitesimal brilliants. CS1I BOWS Aft STIR The Dtrotjttira Hat ami Ife Rkto steiie SMnsitrsL A 9tHly of Waists rr Yl'tHler hvCh Shows the SHtrfmiiy C 1task. The Xetvest Ka.hrfen Are 9(Hltei Valvttt ami ttnlubow Cl4h A, ISVw and A'eny CurKttBn Verve StU. NsW YORK. Oct. S. What ery wesson asetrao to ow for ; wearing is a-Dtwctsit o bojms velvet, its wilt epturaed faced with white waved chntsev as the crowning glory of it a Hhlsestoue -burst set inside at (he base of the orbs. whore it Bares n from tho lace. The senbntst Is around which tho reetonre is built, sad aoMe from ttevhrtws as an ornament, it serves the sotse Ror pose of bracing back the hrta so that it forms the proper sort of srch shove she face. Whether the crown of the Stase toire rakes exaggeratedly forward or sot. whether the whole hat itself n of velvet that is of the weave or that variety known as as4iaae, are almost unimportant details to the wom an who has staked all her claims to been on her strings. The Direetoire that ss a force in the mUUaory realms always has strings, but as yon bold dear your hopes of looking your best in your new wiafcr hat. don't invest in ribbon string Nothing is more dlfflcolt to dispose be comingly about the face than brood, double-faced satin scarfs, no matter If the satin is the richest and softest yoa can find. The requisite effect, indeed tho oaly effect, is to be had by the use of chtflDn or liberty crepe or molines net. or. tt you can afford a good, dettcote kind, lore scarfs. When fashionably disposed, tho hat strings are invariably draped aad one fcs half a yard shorter than the other; this is, of course, the left hand string. When a direetoire ia pinned la place its soft ehtf fon right-hand streamers is east across the bust in a loop to the left shoulder, thorn it meets its mate and. they fasten to tne shoulder of the gown with an ornamental brooch: from this point they flow dowa to the waist line aad fasten again, while their ends drift in uneven lengths, one to the knees, the other nearly to the feet. On a sumptuous calling gown, of that strange, soft color called faded leather. strings of creamy lace, draped as described, are invaluable agents tor decoration. Some times the hat streamers are very long and fall in an airy chiffon cascade down the front of the gown, and aa exceedingly long, light silk fringe gives them a fashionable finish. Moired velvet is one of the few fabrics we have never seen before, and that ia coming to the front as a goods for haad some. simple trained skirts to wear wh fancy theatre waists, and it cornea mast aptly into play for ornamental rotjafs. belts, rever facings, hat folds, and oraa. mentaL waistcoats. We do see here aad there whole gowns of it. and one of the most attractive bridal costumes made sw an October weeding was all of white metre velvet hung with white silk fringes of el vers lengths. Turning over other interesting contribu tions of the manufacturers to the hoarsk of fabrics turned out this autumn, we Had a strongly appealing- novelty under the ap propriate title ot rarc-eu-ciel. for it ia a fine white cloth so wonderfully dyed that an opalescent rainbow stripe, now appear ing, now disappearing, like the colors is a shot silk, runs through every width. L'arc-en-eiel has been put forward especially fer the make-up of theatre and recesthm gowns, while it is net a tittle used for the troupes of bridesmaids now m dVessmakeis bands. Most popularly it is garnished wfth lines of clear brown fur, mink, Alaska sa ble, etc., and heavy cream cluny aad Re naissance lace. Running over a row of covetable toilets at any wide-awake dressmaker's, the in ference is clear that something Is befog used to break the shoulder line, to retts the flatness of the upper half of the sleeve where it enters the armnole. Xaay waists show rigid tucks at the shoulders. Bvery where is denoted a reprehensible teadeaey to break the sleeve line with round decora tion on the upper or the forearm, ebe at the elbow a little frill runs round the arar and below it to the waist; tucked chhsea or lace extends in a long, close caff. Beyond these criticisms none bet Bat tering comments are to be made of dress waists as they now reveal them selves, and powerful as have been the effort to coax women te accept mora decorations en their skirts, toe waists of the majority of gowns continue to steal all the real glory and color of the costume. On some of them the most Intricate and coquettish little waistcoat arrangements are adopted, and, as one of the accompanying illustrations reveals, the waist of a doth gown will open its velvet faced rever collar first to reveal a waistcoat of soft striped silk, and inside this a second vest of satin overlaid with lace, upon which is draped. through jeweled buckles, a necktie of lib erty satin. What with the barrel-shaped buttons and the stitching on the iittle cloth garment itself, the waist of this pearl grey cloth spit reflected seven differ ent but perfectly accordant colors aad five different fabrics. Scores of the prettiest costumes mado as so far have illustrated a general tendency of the modiste to harmonise in one salt variations of a single color. For example. a thrush brown earners-hair will have its waist ornamented with a great collar of quite golden brown siik. upon which fat mid a veiling of tea-tinted guipure; the whole collar will snow an edge of mink's far, a girdle and bows of sable brown velvet and the apex of this symphony in brown will be a tucked or plain high collar and frontlet of pale gold colored silk. It re quires a careful hand a true eye for color to compile one of these mismatched dress es, as they are denominated in the dniia making vernacular, and not fall into very erroneous arrangements in many greecs or selected blues. There are apparently at this stage in clothesland only two details la the mak ing of a dress waist which, if followed, will render a gown hopelessly unfashion able. One is to cut the sleeves full at the top; the other Is to allow any length of bodice below the waist line. Otherwise you are free to make the body to your new fall dress as your own sweet will dictates, and do what you will yon cannot get be hind the times. Big revere aad little oaes. a slightly pouched front or a fiat ons. 'org sleeves to the knuckle, or those to the wrist, bell-shaped cuffs or none at all, are each and every one modes of the time most timely, and boleros and vest effects aati short jacket backs and yokes aad kereoJef arrangements cannot really be placed any one before the other in the lists of popu larity. What fills the scul of the lover of aeck novelties with joy uncon fined is tbe high stiff dark velvet stock that boaks bobhtl but shows two rows of glittering lift e bat tons running up the back. This is fasten ed about the neck of any gown and thee a satin ribbon ot some pale color is slipped about the throat at the top of this eollar. and inside it, drawn to the front aad tied so that its ends, garnished with tabs of tbe most delicate white point lace, fasten in a bow crisp as a fresh-blown white rosa right under the chin. A long throat ami a proudly poised chin are necessary if one would wear this novelty, while something not less pretty and original, aad met com fortable, is a collar of folded piane with two lily petal -shaped pieces, deftly wired. faced with satin and turned back in long outstanding points from either side under the ears, So long are some ot these col lar points that they extend four inches oxrt from the collar band and then Oroop and touch the shoulder itani. and are at oac; ei. tntric and becoming. ket sssbtr whUtl ot lessssBsc sssai