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The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, October 22, 1899, Second Part, Image 19

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She Will Now Proceed to Rival Her
Aihielic Sister.
Stssowy Siej OirlH 3Iay Give Up
Rolf Slteks Hrt U-Hrn to Smoon .
ivitu the Kknc f n old-Fashion- 'when she assumed her chair in the front
ed Novel HcrfllHc IIww Some ,; the box.
the Iticli Aew Vrkr Dress.
KKW YORK, Oct- 21. The golf-playing
moiety gbi is no more. .This winter the
firi'mMKrij feminise, shrinking, clinging.
jasRl -tainting, and qoiddjr-movcd-to-tears
yoaag woman Is the mode and the social
newer. If von have a debutante dauarhter
a tt - m.M v j.. nw .
" . """" """ ""J ""v- ; Mrs. lleury Clews, by even her closest
wearing broad-nibbed shoes, encouraging a i rivals, is admittedly the most richly dress
wBlrwM cntor.and a big waist, took out for ' ed woman in the box-going sisterhood,
her ftrtare. Men and society at large have nd through a strong glass from a gal
ii,i,, I, - ., ,, mt ,j,. i,-u,. ! ,ery or orchestra chair it is easy to under
grown weary of the self-reliant, healths. , stand whercJn the great value of her cos.
staewy muscled Miss Sampson. The girl tumes lies. Like the princesses in the
who knows the side of her society bread on , Arabian Nights, she loves jewel-worked
-which toe nutter of success and a good r cloths, and a gown woven almost wholly
. .. . ., , . f solid silver and gold threads, or one of
matrimonial chance lies is a perfect senei- galn encru8ted n pars is the setting she
tlve plant, as frail of constitution as a oftenest uses for her unusual beauty. So
vJelot. Her waist has suddenly shrunk from weighted with bullion thread and gems are
twenty-si: t nineteen Inches in cireum- i e of er ball gowns that, faultless dan-
lerence, her feet are no longer garbed in i
pigskin hobnails, hat the highest-heeled,
thtanest-seted shoes she can find, and she
to able' is drift off in the most bewitching
swoon when her pet dog's illness declares
Itself or the dressmaker keeps her stand
ing looker than three minutes at a time.
She dares not trust herself beyond the lim
its of her owe sitting-room without a pair j
of tiny crystal jewel -topped flasks strung
on her neck chain. One holds powerful I
salts and the other soi volatile, and the j
men who became proficient in carrying golf i
dubs and pumping up the tires for fair
damsels are now learning how to apply
these two potent antidotes for fainting flts.
Added to this pathetic fragility, nearly
emery miss and matron in society possesses j
oamcaat and particular affliction, and does
wnejosra with her suffering to render it
appealing and bewitching to the strong.
stupid masculines who never see the In-
aoeent hypocrisy under the light masque ot
Pot instance, there is one girl in New
York society who has a weak ankle. It
has never been so badly off as to need
wnx support uuui & very nue siik. i
hew and a high heeled kid tie of Cln- j
dereila proportions, because its owner
crotch. Such a beautiful crutch.
a art treasure, with an arm rest and
handle of ivory inlaid with gold and
Mother of pearl, and the uprights of
the crotch are invariably wound with a
1 jhnt exactly matches its proprietor s
every change of costume. Of course one
ort'auas" .".. to"rS
her other hand on, and talk of her trouble
always brings the perfectly formed suf
fering ankle into momentary view, and
there yon have as pretty a beginning for
a love affair as ever the golf links sup
ptted. A wether miss, whose most faultless fea
ture m her long, round, snowy arms.
always wears a two-inch wide band of 1
solid diamonds on the upper portion of her I In fact, one never knows how indispensa
leeety right member. Because why? Well, ! ble this little signal is until, after having
because those diamonds conceal a dreadful i once possessed one, it has been lost or mis
sear received in childhood, the cicatrix of I laid. To prevent such a grievance as this,
a dreadful wound that nearly cost her her j the new ones have attached to them a fine
We. that since then has been a deep safety chain, similar to the ones worn on
source of grief to her, and that is a scar j eye glasses, with a pin at one end which
so entirely terrifying in appearance that ' fastens it to the coat. That is, men wear
aettharby night nor by day is the diamond , their whistles fastened to them in this way
band removed. Not one, but the majority ; and droo them in their tinnor vost mwtets
ot newly budded debutantes carry each a
siSc enclosed, violet scented down pillow
to chuich and theatre, and when driving
end calling. This little pillow is about
twelve laches square and bears the owner's
fatriela hi embroidery la one corner, and j
Its purpose fc to protect a neuralgic ahoul- j
dor. The pillow must be placed exactly
over the excitable nerve of the left shoul
der, else a draught creeps in and a killing
headache is the result.
The country house party season is still
ware open, ana roe meeuugnt ntgnts are
azfttsed to their fullest extent to satisfy
the demand of the young people for picnics
r ., I
of a kind that have rarely proved to be
other than successful in this their initial
season of adoption. In reality they are lan
tern nutting parties, and are so carefully
pre-arranged that it rsqnires a well-equip-pea
hostess to provide one.
In a country house where a dozen guests
of both sexes are visiting, the hostess sends
her men oervants twenty-four hours in ad-
of the entertainment to scour the
and find and mark the trees that
the best crop of ripe 'nuts and in a
choice spot in the forest a clearing is made,
and there the men collect and heap fagots
scieatincaUy. knock up a few rough tables
swot the bonfire, roll up stumps and logs
tor seats, and set up staples and dig pits
for cooking food, and on crisp, dry, moon
light evenings a couple of coaches drive the
guests to the woods. To every woman in
the party an agreeable masculine escort is
gives, and on every pair an old style tin
lantern holding an inch and a half of light
ed candle is bestowed, along with a
hag or basket for holding nuts. Now, the
gist of (he fun is that by the dim light of
Che lantern and the aid of the moon the
oonnles are to hunt for nuts, finding the
trees by means of white cards tacked to the
trunks and trusting to sharp eyee and their
training in juvenile years to secure their
prises in the dry leaves.
When a coach born is blown at the bon
fire, everybody must answer its summons
at the picnic rendezvous and have their
estimated. Whichever couple
the greatest number wins a prise.
Desperate and heroic are the endeavors of
those who struggle to get the first prize,
because the inch and a half of candle burns
down all too rapidly and gives light for a
very little while. It is the business of one
Hvoty matron with an escort to prowl
about with a bull's eye lantern and fiasa
ft open suspected flirtations and Jrag
forth the offenders.
When the coach horn calls in the last
straggler, the servants touch off the big
bonfire, light pine torches, and cook the
gaaae and other meats for the supper ia
herbeeoe fashion.
1C so nuts are to be had, the supper by
torchlight is carried out just the same
smsbed down with cider, and on some oc
casions oysters, potatoes, etc., are roasted
by the women in the ashes of the big
cans ire and the servants are left at home
as formal nuisances, that contribute to
nobody's pleasure.
Br thefr individualities in dress may an
observant person distinguish the great la
dles of the land. A stranger in New York,
tor exasanle, who drops in at the Metro
politan of a gala night, won't hare the
dlnculty in picking out the fair
hostess In the Astor box. This is
Mrs. Jack ts always the most
plainly gowned woman in the horseshoe
ssflaxy of beauty. Perfectly simple satin
sad diamonds is her invariable choice.
Tike satin so rich it can stand alone, of a
levety shade of rose or mauvre or pale
Hhse; fitting from shoulders to ankles with
oex a whiff of lace or a pinch of drapery,
ad the diamonds never mixed with pearls
or colored stones, but massed in one wave
of daxxUng light over the bust and shoul
ders. Spaagied and jeweled nets, price
Jess Venetian point and ropes of pearl may
he worn by every other rich matron, but
Jars. Astor is true to her theory that a
fWlocesff satin frock and the whitest of
4iaznooes display her beauty to the great
est advantage-
This rear Mrs. Cornelias Vanderbilt,
Ota efoer, ic in heavy mourning, hut sea
sew after aeasen she has been acknowl
edged the possessor of the most stately
eopmmoj even' seen ia the opera bouse,
astte brocaded in very large and elabo
rate flowers made with extensive trains,
were her favorite toilets. Like Mrs. As
tor ebe rarely ore any Tellings of lace,
ior though r grandmother, Mre, Vander-
bill's figure is as slim and straight as a
girl's, and this fine feature she never al
lows her dressmaker to obscure. One
never ending source of interest to opera
goers -was Mrs. Vanderbilt's pearls, for un
like Mrs. Astor, she preferred them to dia
monds, and though her evening gowns were
cut decollete, her throat, shoulders and
bust were absolutely clothed in first a tall
pearl dog collar and then row after row
of rare pink and white beads, until a com
plete garap to her open necked gown was
formed. There were twenty-two strings
in 1 the jt one falUn lnto her lap
i. wuvei ueimoni ;inu .his. ugui&b
Gould can always lie distinguished in the
gay opera circle by the exceedingly bril
liant costumes of many mixed hues that
their rich, almost uniquely Oriental, bsau
ty entitles them to assume. They are the
only two women who dare wear clear
flame color and bright orange, and at the
matinees, though in high-necked and long
sleeved costumes, their jewels are as gor
geous and their toilets as sumptuous as for
the evening.
ctri mai sue is, net muouuitu jmiuieis niiu
their sinews fully tested in turning her
through a waltz. Slight of figure as she is,
she wears her queenly trappings as though
j they were draperies of chiffon.
I For her incomparable furs, if for noth
j ing else, would Mrg. Stuyvesant Fish fig
j ure with distinction even at the St. Peters
' burg opera house. Among her friends her
. furs are variously estimated as wo.th fif
teen to twenty thousand dollars, and a deli
cate sight of appreciation and envy runs
round the opera house when this swell
iittle lady trips into her box folded in a
$5,000 cape of Russian sable, trimmed
about the fronts and collar with point lace
nearly as valuable. When she carelessly
tosses it back she invariably reveals her
self clothed in Liberty satin or Chinese
crepe, and the string of queen pearls about
her neck that is the only ornament of its
kind in the world.
T,,c' 3,nUc Acceptable Gifts
Country Krieiuls,
Those who arc looking around for some
little gift for a friend who lives a part or
i the whole of the year in the country can
, ...
cot P"se "1Ui w u"" "i selecting oue
of the new whistles. It is well, therefore,
to bear in mind how acceptible, as souve
nirs, are these trifles. Indeed, whistles are
for the moment the smartest little dooda
dles that are to be seen. It is astonishing
how many times a day men, and women.
too for n,aUen find the occasion to
. H their dogs by one;
sometimes their children.
"That is Mary's, or Henry's whistle," is
an expression heard all over the place.
"When returning from a drive le. a run
about or single trap, the whistle '-. a splen
did means of communication vith the sta
ble, and so soon as its tb; tiling note is
heard, a groom comes rum Ing up to the
house to be on the spot whei. he is needed.
Women usually wear them suspended from
the belt.
The newest whistles are extremely dain
ty and pretty. They are made of gold or
gun metal. The gold ones are most at
tractive when perfectly plain in design.
some of them are quite unique in shape
and suggestive of tiny toboggans. Again
others are most elaborate. One that was
recently seen and which had just come
from London was of gun metal in the old-
fashioned orthodox shape. A large spider
-gg wrought upon it and the cylinder part
VIc nnc.irc iw u ,.ia. t , ki.
" ' "J ..." a. .... mi. ram
of the spider was sunken a very large em
erald. Many of them are seeen with to
pazes and amethysts in the top, and they
are quite enchanting. At a gay dinner
party given at Lenox, hardly a fortnight
ago, three of the men present took out
their whistles to test the quality of
I'or Hoiim- "Wear.
their tone. The incident was very amus
ing, and especially so as they gave out
three distinct and different notes. One was
horribly shrill and unpleasant- Their mu
sical character should, therefoie, not be
lost sight of when selecting them.
Hoiv to Mnke Gooil licet Tea.
Illness is a possible calamity in every
house, ami one never knows when one may
be called upon to undertake the duties of
temporary nurse. A knowledge of how to
make a cup of really good and nourishing
beef tea should, therefore, lie at every
woman's finger ends. First, chop very fine,
or miuce with a machine, a pound and a
half of gravy beef from which every par
ticle of fat has been removed. Place it in
an earthenware jar with a lid, add a pint
of cold water, and let it remain an hour.
occasionally stirring and pressing firmly
with a spoon. Then place the jar, with the
lid on, in a saucepan large enough to cov
er it, with sufficient water to reach nearly
to the Hd, but not near enough to rise
above it, and enter the jar. The water
in the saucepan is to be kept just under
boiling point, at the corner of the lire, for
three hours, adding a little water occas
ionally, and when tho time has
expired, tha Jar may be re
moved, the beef tea drained from the
meat, which Is then to be pressed closely
as possible through a coarse straining
cloth, so as to extract all the liquid. After
standing a short time, the beef ten. will
become clear, much light brown flaky mat
ter falling to the bottom. By no means
remove this, as it is nutritious material.
life && MSRM
Copyrignc, 3E3S, by S. M. Baldwin.
PARIS, Oct. 6. Among the various de
corations which grow more elaborate and
fanciful as the season grows apaco'fringes
take tho lead. They -are-'considered -just
the thing to Intensify the long, slender
lines of the present styles, more apparent
in evening wear perhaps than on the
street, for according to tho modern
Parislenno's taste the evening gown must
appear like a shroud, tightly enveloping
tho body and caught here and there into
long, flowing folds with knots of ribbon
or velvet or buckles of precious stones.
Beautiful, hand-made, and undulating with
every movement of the wearer, these
fringes lend themsolves particularly to
these ideas, and as they are both novel
and costly they have somewhat supplanted
the omnipresent laces in the favor of the
ultra fashionable. One beautiful dinner
gown is an example of tho effectiveness
of fringe garniture. It has a Princessc
foundation of white silk, made very cling
ing, and with a modified train, which is
finished with a pleated flounce of white
chiffon. There is a redingote made of a
"filet" of netted white silk done by hand
and finishing with a wide fringe. The
meshes are drawn tightly over the back,
but fall in graceful draperies in front and
are caught with ehoux of white velvet
with centres of stress buttons. The drap
ery is a chef d'oeuvres of dressmaking and
Is so arranged that the fringe forms a
jabot at tho draped left side and also falls
over the chiffon flounce of the foundation
skirt. The under bodice is decollete and
A. Mystic XiKbt When Muldons In
voice tin- Future.
The night of October 31 is the one pe
riod in all the year when the future Is
made known for is it not tho vigil of
Hallowmass, or All Saints Eve? On this
night, says the "Cincinnati Enquirer,"
above all others, spirits were supposed to
walk the earth, strange dreams foretold
prosperity or adversity, lovers were tested
by various charms, future marriages were
arranged, and the wilder the superstition
the more current its belief. According to
ancient tradition, that which Is human is
endowed on All Halloween with the won
drous power of detaching itself from the
visible and allowing the spirit individuali
ty to leave its house of flesh and blood
and soar avsay to the redims of the Imma
terial. Out of this Uiilon of spirits came
the belief in the great power of divination
on that night to obtain whatever was wish
ed or longed for. In modern times Hallo
ween has alwaj's been enjoyable becarse of
the popular superstitions attaching to it.
There is something attractive, especially to
the young, in that which is weird and fan
tastic, and a night when imagination may
run riot, when any supernatural story may
be believed, when faries and goblins are
supposed to hold high revelry, and any
ceremony, however extravagant, may be
indulged in, is sure to be popular.
One of the most entertaining tests of mod
ern times Is the baking of a "dumb cake."
By it can be learned which of a party of
young women will be married first.
The sterner sex is banished. A cake is
mixed in silence. If anyone speaks she is
thrown out of the charmed circle Sho will
be the last to bo married and will make
a poor match at that. When the cake is
finished and set in the oven the door
will open. A man will walk into the room.
The girl upon whom his eye first falls will
be the first led to the altar.
If a young woman has the courage she
may gaze upon the face of the man the
gods have chosen for her. Just at 12
o'clock sho must walk backward down the
collar stairs. She must be alone and have
no light except the candle she carries.
She must cat an apple on the way down,
and on the bottom step the core must falL
Then, if she raises a amnll glass winch Is
fastened about her neck over her shoulder,
sho will see the face ot the man who is to
be all in all t her and whose dinners she
must order in the future.
It is not necessary to wait for tlino to
illustrated by .-Felix Fournery
Autumn Gown ?
designed by Montaille of Paris.
sleeveless, but the white silk net reaches
to the neck, which la encircled by a wide
collar of pearls, and the tight elbow
sleeves of unlined "filet" also finish with
strings ot pearls and choux of white vel
vet. Tho same gown is successfully dupli
cated in black silk and black "fllet" with
collar and bracelets of jet.
That fringes are not less effective on
street costumes is proven by our illus
tration. Black cloth composes this cos
tume, and is lined with black satin. The
serpentine flounce of black cloth is very
slightly flared and is surmounted by a deep
fringe of black silk with a "fllet" body,
like that which figures in the description
of tho white dinner toilette. Tho short
j tunic of black cloth closes invisibly at the
deck anu is eneircieu near tne waist line
with four rows of cordings. The corded ef
fect continues on tho tight fitting bodice,
which closes in the underarm seam and is
partly veiled by a fringe matching the one
on the skirt and attached to form a point
in front, while at the back It Is straight.
The small double bolero follows tho lines
of the fringe in front and back and is fin
ished with scallops which are lined with
black satin and decorated with two rows
of black silk stitchlngs and small crystal
buttons. The tight sleeves of black cloth
are capped with satin and stitched like the
bolero. The wrists are perfectly plain, but
white linen cuffs are worn with crystal cuff
buttons. The collar forms a bright con
trast to the sombre black. It is of bright
red velvet, with a stiff cravat bow of tho
same, and the belt follows suit, being of
red leather, closing with a crystal buckle.
provo whether a Halloween wish will
como true or not. A tub of water is sup
plied. Two apples are secured. A wish ia
made. Some one puts a tiny mark on one
apple. The wisher is blindfolded, and if
he is successful in biting the marked applo
tho fulfillment of the vylsh is a certainty.
Another entertaining way of finding out
whom you are to wed is to go into a dark
room and toss a ball of white or rose
colored cord out of tho window, holding
ono end securely tied around the third
finger of tho left hand. When tho ball has
reached the ground begin at once to re-
Trlnimpd AVItli StlteliiiiKU.
wind it, repeating the alphabet backward.
Before the ball is rewound a mysterious
hand will catch the trailing end. Lean out
of the window and faintly ask. "Who is
there?" Tho name that will be whis
pered in answer will be the one you most
long to hear.
E. Aine Mo.vtaiixb..
The stylish hat Is of black chenille and felt
braided, and is trimmed with black plumes
and red black velvet ribbon.
Wth ly3p,jusual figkleness, Dame Fashion
leads us with a jump from multi-toned
creations to dark hues and black, not with
out an evident pang of regret, for even
the somberest toilette is enhanced with a
bit of color somewhere. Thus tho perfo
rated "a jour" cloths are invariably black
or dark, while the silk Hnlng3 are white
or of some bright, harmonizing or con
trasting shade.
Capes are on a decline since the de
crease of the sleeve has again brought for
ward the jaunty jackets and coats which
impart an air of youthfulness and a style
to the figure which the capes ever failed
to do. Yet there is no denying their prac
ticability and pretty models for matrons or
for evening wear are constantly created.
They aro usually close fitting over the
shoulders and finish with a long but nar
row flare. Matrons are pleased at the re
incarnation of tho dolman, which varies
little in its present shape from that of
twenty years ago. White or biscuit col
ored cloth is prominent for evening capes,
which are made quite long and roomy. The
rage for Persian and Oriental designs has
also invaded this realm. One pretty modol
is mado of velvet covered with an Oriental
pattern in soft, dull shades, and is finished
with two very slightly flared band3 of
stitched cream colored cloth, set one upon
the other, like to simulate wide tucks.
The high flaring collar, as well as the en
tire cape, is lined with fur.
"Why Cannot American Women Burn
Money Tliis IVnyf
Grasse, In the southern part of France,
Is tho centre of tho perfume industry.
There the women and girls may be seen,
with broad hats on their heads, gathering
flowers from 5 o'clock until 11 in the morn
ing, and then returning with their fragrant
burdens to the houses, where they pluck
tho leaves from the blossoms and pass the
rest of the day in preparing them for the
work of extracting the essences or essen
tial oils, which contain the perfume itself.
In March they begin picking violets,
from which the popular violet water is
made, and from the beginning of May to
the end of June they gather the jessamine,
roses, and orange blossoms, as well as the
tuberoses in July, the mignonetto in Au
gust and the cassia in September. But the
maidens are not gathering blossoms to
stick Into their hats or to clasp at their
belts to add to personal charms; it Is their
dally bread, earned In a beautiful and de
lightful fashion. A breath will blow the
rose leaf from you and the nimble fingers
of the women must move rapidly to pluck
the billions and millions of leaves that go
to make up the 1,200,000 kilogrammes of
rose leaves alone that are used each sea
son. Besides there is a million kilo
grammes of jeasamine to be plucked, and
violets and orange blossoms to the extent
of 2,000,000 kilogrammes a year. To give
an idea of the number of plants that are
raised for this huge result, it is calculated
that each stalk of jessamine yields two
kilogrammes of blossoms a season. So there
must be at least 500,000 stalks to yield the
million kilogrammes required.
But the gathering of the blossoms is only
the beginning of tho work, for then the
flowers must be picked apart, and all of
the spoiled leaves thrown aside. Then the
making of the perfume begin3. The leaves
are SDread one by one upon layers of pure
lard that cover plates of glns3. Three or
four times these flower layers are renewed
before the lard has absorbed all of the
perfume that It can hold, for the fat has
a pocular attraction for the essential oils
of tho flowers. This perfumed lard Is the
"pomade" of commerce, not the pomades
used for hair or beard, but the crude ma
terial out of which these are afterward
manufactured. The lard is then either
dilppod as it Is to other manufacturers, or
put Into alcohol which draws off the per
fume from the fat. having a stronger at
traction therefor than tho lard, and tho
result is the naost eon do cologne. Xost
of this pomade Is shipped as It stands to
all parts of Burope and America, bet some
of it Is reserved ami the oils-are extracted
by distilling processes, making the purest
extracts. So much for the industry which
has made Grasse rich and famous. Bet
in this story lies much that is suggestive
for us in the United States.
It is beyond question that ia many por
tions of the United States, just as fine
and strongly perfumed flowers can be rais
ed ae in France. The varieties of roses,
for instance, which are best tor making
perfumes, are not the American Beauties
or La France, but the commoner varieties,
which will grow luxuriously almost any
where in the States. It is certain that if
the attention of some of our women were
directed, to this matter they could earn
many a dollar pleasantly by the manufac
ture of perfumes. It would require no com
plicated machinery to make pomade just
as it is made in Grasse. The lard coald be
bought and reflnde, it could be spread on
the plates of glass, and it would be both
pleasant and profitable to spend a few
weeks in Jubo picking rosea and spreading
the leaves on the absorbing rat. Then it
you did not care to make the cologne your
self, you could sell your pomade and get a
good price for it.
KKreti Are 'ot Injured to Snpnly
Hut Ken titers.
People are not always quite as cruel as
they are reported.
An immense amount of testimony baa
been published concerning the cruel and
wholesale slaughter of egrets In South
America, and elsewhere to furnish plumes
for ladies' headdress. Now a correspond
ent, who has just returned to Bngiand from.
the upper Orinoco, writes to London to
say that such slaughter 'does not occur.
and is not possible. The correspondent )
says: "In the first place, the birds are gift
ed with long necks, and It is extremely dif
ficult to approach a bird in tho daytime.
even-by fraud. It has become an instinct
to beware of man. In Nicaragua the only
time I could by chance manage to shoot
a bird was to sit under a roosting tree and
pop them off as they arrived. This la only
for about ten minutes; the- birds would
never roost in the same tree again. My
object in pointing out this is to show that
by means of powder and shot no one could
make it pay." The writer then goes on
to say that by far "the greatest quantity
of egret plumes does not come from shot
birds, as I found out on the Orinoco, but
hunters without powder and shot go round
during the right season to the breeding
and roosting grounds and collect off the
ground plumes which are cast by the males
every year. The only thing necesary is to
pick them off the ground as soon as possi
ble. I learned from an authentic hunter
that as many as forty pounds were thus
collected from, one spot. Again, in Vene
zuela many people are beginning to farm
the birds. It is marvelous how easily they
are domesticated. In Nicaragua very few
houses are without one or two, and this
on the banks of their native lake where
they go down to bathe. They never leave
a yard when once accustomed to it, and are
very useful for killings all sorts of v-rntin,
rats, etc. On my homeward trip down the
Orinoco I was fortunate enough to meet
two hunters (both Frenchmen) who had
been some time up country collecting feath
ers. They each had, I should imagine, 100
pounds, and this without killing one single
A Unique Idea. Evolved, lty YomifiT
Sulturlinn llousoUecpess.
A new idea is meeting with favor among
the young men and women of certain sub
urban districts. The young wives of a
long block of houses have clubbed together
and hold meetings several evenings a week,
at which they are joined by their hus
bands. The meetings take place in turn
at the dining table of each member, where
they have a merry time as well as a hearty
meal, and nil is arranged so as not to in
convenience anybody. Instead of one house
keeper having to provide the dinner, each
member is allotted at the former meeting
to furnish some special dish for the next
repast. As a result of this method the
greatest care is exercised by each one in
preparing a single article of food or direct
ing its preparation, so that the diaaers
A Sersre Bodice.
comprise the best of everything.
At the appointed hour the members, as
they arrive, hand their neat little pack
ages to the hostess for that evening, and
amuse themselves while the different
courses of the meal are prepared for ser
vice. The fact that young housekeepers
have a better appetite for the cooking of
others Is taken advantage of by the Neigh
bor Club and is apparent at meetings. Be
sides promoting sociability, competition in
cooking results, and the discussion of cook
ing method's and recipes forms a consider
able part of the conversation. The clear
ing up after the meal is quickly accom
plished by all hands taking part, and the
young women soon adjourn for the evening
to the company of their husbands in the
Ilntiil-Mitilc Hirils.
Let -a note be made of the startling
birds' heads that are seen on some ot the
model hats from Paris. No fowls that ever
flew by land or sea wore such beaks, eyes,
topknots, crests, and sinuous necks as
these very evidently man-made creatures
display. They are wonderful examples of
manufacturers' imaginations, and not lack
ing at all In artistic beauty and ornamental
value. Some of the cruel-looking beaks
are made ot polished tiger claws, the necks
ringed with brilliant fish scales to imi
tate bright f lathers, and the eyes are often
bits or shining red, green, or blue enamel
surrounded with quite infinitesimal brilliants.
The Dtrotjttira Hat ami Ife Rkto
steiie SMnsitrsL
A 9tHly of Waists rr Yl'tHler hvCh
Shows the SHtrfmiiy C 1task.
The Xetvest Ka.hrfen Are 9(Hltei
Valvttt ami ttnlubow Cl4h A, ISVw
and A'eny CurKttBn Verve StU.
NsW YORK. Oct. S. What
ery wesson asetrao to ow for ;
wearing is a-Dtwctsit o bojms
velvet, its wilt epturaed
faced with white waved chntsev as the
crowning glory of it a Hhlsestoue -burst
set inside at (he base of the orbs.
whore it Bares n from tho lace.
The senbntst Is
around which tho
reetonre is built, sad aoMe from ttevhrtws
as an ornament, it serves the sotse Ror
pose of bracing back the hrta so that it
forms the proper sort of srch shove she
face. Whether the crown of the Stase
toire rakes exaggeratedly forward or sot.
whether the whole hat itself n
of velvet that is of the
weave or that variety known as as4iaae,
are almost unimportant details to the wom
an who has staked all her claims to been
on her strings. The Direetoire that ss a
force in the mUUaory realms always has
strings, but as yon bold dear your hopes
of looking your best in your new wiafcr
hat. don't invest in ribbon string
Nothing is more dlfflcolt to dispose be
comingly about the face than brood, double-faced
satin scarfs, no matter If the
satin is the richest and softest yoa can
find. The requisite effect, indeed tho oaly
effect, is to be had by the use of chtflDn
or liberty crepe or molines net. or. tt you
can afford a good, dettcote kind, lore
When fashionably disposed, tho hat
strings are invariably draped aad one fcs
half a yard shorter than the other; this
is, of course, the left hand string. When
a direetoire ia pinned la place its soft ehtf
fon right-hand streamers is east across the
bust in a loop to the left shoulder, thorn
it meets its mate and. they fasten to tne
shoulder of the gown with an ornamental
brooch: from this point they flow dowa to
the waist line aad fasten again, while
their ends drift in uneven lengths, one to
the knees, the other nearly to the feet.
On a sumptuous calling gown, of that
strange, soft color called faded leather.
strings of creamy lace, draped as described,
are invaluable agents tor decoration. Some
times the hat streamers are very long and
fall in an airy chiffon cascade down the
front of the gown, and aa exceedingly long,
light silk fringe gives them a fashionable
Moired velvet is one of the few fabrics
we have never seen before, and that ia
coming to the front as a goods for haad
some. simple trained skirts to wear wh
fancy theatre waists, and it cornea mast
aptly into play for ornamental rotjafs.
belts, rever facings, hat folds, and oraa.
mentaL waistcoats. We do see here aad
there whole gowns of it. and one of the
most attractive bridal costumes made sw
an October weeding was all of white metre
velvet hung with white silk fringes of el
vers lengths.
Turning over other interesting contribu
tions of the manufacturers to the hoarsk
of fabrics turned out this autumn, we Had
a strongly appealing- novelty under the ap
propriate title ot rarc-eu-ciel. for it ia a
fine white cloth so wonderfully dyed that
an opalescent rainbow stripe, now appear
ing, now disappearing, like the colors is a
shot silk, runs through every width. L'arc-en-eiel
has been put forward especially fer
the make-up of theatre and recesthm
gowns, while it is net a tittle used for the
troupes of bridesmaids now m dVessmakeis
bands. Most popularly it is garnished wfth
lines of clear brown fur, mink, Alaska sa
ble, etc., and heavy cream cluny aad Re
naissance lace.
Running over a row of covetable toilets
at any wide-awake dressmaker's, the in
ference is clear that something Is befog
used to break the shoulder line, to retts
the flatness of the upper half of the sleeve
where it enters the armnole. Xaay waists
show rigid tucks at the shoulders. Bvery
where is denoted a reprehensible teadeaey
to break the sleeve line with round decora
tion on the upper or the forearm, ebe at
the elbow a little frill runs round the arar
and below it to the waist; tucked chhsea
or lace extends in a long, close caff.
Beyond these criticisms none bet Bat
tering comments are to be made of
dress waists as they now reveal them
selves, and powerful as have been the
effort to coax women te accept mora
decorations en their skirts, toe waists
of the majority of gowns continue to steal
all the real glory and color of the costume.
On some of them the most Intricate and
coquettish little waistcoat arrangements are
adopted, and, as one of the accompanying
illustrations reveals, the waist of a doth
gown will open its velvet faced rever collar
first to reveal a waistcoat of soft striped
silk, and inside this a second vest of satin
overlaid with lace, upon which is draped.
through jeweled buckles, a necktie of lib
erty satin. What with the barrel-shaped
buttons and the stitching on the iittle
cloth garment itself, the waist of this
pearl grey cloth spit reflected seven differ
ent but perfectly accordant colors aad
five different fabrics.
Scores of the prettiest costumes mado as
so far have illustrated a general tendency
of the modiste to harmonise in one salt
variations of a single color. For example.
a thrush brown earners-hair will have its
waist ornamented with a great collar of
quite golden brown siik. upon which fat mid
a veiling of tea-tinted guipure; the whole
collar will snow an edge of mink's far, a
girdle and bows of sable brown velvet
and the apex of this symphony in brown
will be a tucked or plain high collar and
frontlet of pale gold colored silk. It re
quires a careful hand a true eye for color
to compile one of these mismatched dress
es, as they are denominated in the dniia
making vernacular, and not fall into very
erroneous arrangements in many greecs or
selected blues.
There are apparently at this stage in
clothesland only two details la the mak
ing of a dress waist which, if followed,
will render a gown hopelessly unfashion
able. One is to cut the sleeves full at the
top; the other Is to allow any length of
bodice below the waist line. Otherwise
you are free to make the body to your new
fall dress as your own sweet will dictates,
and do what you will yon cannot get be
hind the times. Big revere aad little oaes.
a slightly pouched front or a fiat ons. 'org
sleeves to the knuckle, or those to the
wrist, bell-shaped cuffs or none at all, are
each and every one modes of the time most
timely, and boleros and vest effects aati
short jacket backs and yokes aad kereoJef
arrangements cannot really be placed any
one before the other in the lists of popu
larity. What fills the scul of the lover of aeck
novelties with joy uncon fined is tbe high
stiff dark velvet stock that boaks bobhtl
but shows two rows of glittering lift e bat
tons running up the back. This is fasten
ed about the neck of any gown and thee a
satin ribbon ot some pale color is slipped
about the throat at the top of this eollar.
and inside it, drawn to the front aad tied
so that its ends, garnished with tabs of
tbe most delicate white point lace, fasten
in a bow crisp as a fresh-blown white rosa
right under the chin. A long throat ami a
proudly poised chin are necessary if one
would wear this novelty, while something
not less pretty and original, aad met com
fortable, is a collar of folded piane with
two lily petal -shaped pieces, deftly wired.
faced with satin and turned back in long
outstanding points from either side under
the ears, So long are some ot these col
lar points that they extend four inches oxrt
from the collar band and then Oroop and
touch the shoulder itani. and are at oac;
ei. tntric and becoming.
ket sssbtr
whUtl ot
lessssBsc sssai

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