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The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, March 03, 1901, Second Part, Image 16

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85054468/1901-03-03/ed-1/seq-16/

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Xo Spring Oomi Will He Comjilt tc
Without Them
The Inii Skirt of lie Future VI III
Hate n Dip Front mill Trail nl flic
Uncle Tllllc Tinsel Cmiye mill
FIovve rM Will Supersede tran
With Easter will come the reign of the
coarse laces The fine delicate points and
duchesses and Valenciennes and their Imi
tations are to be banished except for
evening occasions and in their place the
coarser laces will be worn
There are loely coarse laces Point
dAraby being a favorite Then there are
Persian laces which are very heavy in
deed and touched with gold threads biA
by far the most popular of the heavy laces
are the Russian lace varieties that come
In three or four colors ind are adapted to
eery outdoor occasion Tan and black
white and cream arc the selections and
Sou can generally get a lace in these col
ors to harmonize with jour gown When
In doubt choose tan Is a good rule and
one that should be more generally ob
sercd for it cannot bo denied that many
a costume has been spoiled by the use of a
clear while lace when a shade of tan
would have been much bettci Remember
toat lace should tone to quote our
French cousins and not contrast
Beside the Russians there are heavy
Belgian laces and also some ery good
ones from Xe England domestic laces
that are precisely as well made as those
that come from abroad and of a more ar
tistic design in many cases While the
salesman Is by no means supreme as far
as the selection of a womans gown Is
concerned still his taste is to be respect
ed and if he assures jou upon his honor
and upon his position that a certain lace
will not grow slinky pull nor spot by all
means get it If you like it and be ready
to reproach him with It if t loses Its
stiffness and air
All dress skirts will be made with the
dip front This Is variously called by dif
ferent modistes but It refers to the sharp
V shaped Incision which Is made in the
middle of the front of the skirt This Is
nicely bound with silk braid and when
put on Is designed to fit over the big silver
hook which adorns the front of all corsets
If not there the modish woman speedily
adds it This makes the skirt long and
keeps It lone for It cannot slip up The
skirt will flare that is certatn The
shaped ruffle accomplishes this around the
foot It is very deep and is beautifully
fitted to Lie skirt It flares so that it
sets out full around the feet No matter
what may be the trimming of the skirt
and just now the panel Is in again this
flare will be noticed It is often made by
the cut of the skirt and does not depend
upon a ruffle around the foot The iMrt
Is very tight around the hips almost too
tight for comfort Ladles maids will
complain this season that they must
nightly watch the side seams of my lad s
skirt for the skirt is fitted so closely
around the htrs and abdomen that the
seams burst out and gap Just as th y do
in the waist if the latter be too tight
The skirt must be fitted Just like the waist
and must set in to the figure Just as af
fectionately Lower down It may flare
The panel Is so fashionable that nearly
all skirts boast it Many shapes are stcn
in the panel designs One of these Is the
pointed panel which Is wide at the foot
and gradually tapers toward the belt It
is stitched on both sides and again it Is
stitched fast to the skirt It is of the
same material and the same color as hc
One of the new Ideas In spring milli
nery is to combine straw braids and tulle
the latter being also Introduced into the
trimming says the Millinery Trade Ile
vlew Tor instance one third of these
braids is covered with three or four folds
of gossamer often In as many colors
then they are sewed together broadside
against broadside the edge uppermost
Straws so treated are called voile An
other idea is to sew narrow straw braids
on a tulle or net foundation either side
by side so as to touch or with a narrow
internal between For this purpose vcry
narrow bands of satin straw arc used in
stead of braids They may be laid on Mat
or only cauglt down at intervals of a lit
tle less than an Inch so as to form a loop
Being set very closely together the gen
eral effect Is that of a fane satin straw
shape It Is only en close inspetlionjthat
the tulle foundation becomes apparent
Gold tulle may be used as a founda
tion for such an arrangement
of gold colored satin straw Straw
spangles brought out last jcar as trim
ming are now pressed Into the service
for covering the whole or a portion of net
shapes In the latter case satin bands arc
mixed with the spangles the latter form
ing a simple pattern
The use of net as a foundation enables a
milliner to build up an arrangement of
thick straw braids overlaying each other
without increase of weight as would be
the case If these were a second pleat un
derneath The fashion of introducing
braids placed upright alternated with flat
olcs Is maintained
Straw so far as the production of smart
millinery Is concerned has a formidable
rival in gossamer Of these the most in
request for the opening season will be
mechlln tulle llsse which has figured
pretty largelj in the late winter millinery
will be Ufed also but very much less than
tulle Some toques hate much ho ap
pearance of a large full blown rose being
entirely composed of a number of narrow
gathered frills of tulle each bordered with
fine gold or elher cord Others are made
of frills of tulle on which are sewn gold
lace alternating with cross cut folds of
A certain proportion of the new- models
bate no apparent shapes and are made up
entirely of the trimming a foundation for
this being provided in white wired net In
many cases this support assumes dif
ferent forms best suited to the circum
stances for cxamnle if overlaid with a
large flat bow the crown will be roofed
In by a wired plateau extending over Its
sides and on which the loops will rest
Also since a great many of the hats and
toques are lifted on the left side not
necessarily turned un there Is a sub
structure on that side which now mostly
takes the form of a piece of wired net
straight at the bottom and curved at the
op bent Into a half tcoon This more
often than not recehes sufficient trim
ming to conceal It entirely but not al
ways when a portion of its covering
silk or velvet put on plain Is to be seen
Flowers are most frequently chosen ns
jeir trimming particularly the ery
fashionable rose with large loose petals
surrounding a tulip shaped center spe
cially favored In cream white and black
A few leases are added but one blossom
is sufficient
Tilt ItoeKlliK Cbnlr III
In the missionary work which the
United States is doing in Germany the
Introduction of the rocking chair should
cot be forgotten Think of a grandmo her
or a maiden aunt without a rocking chair
or the piazza of a yacht club without
these gently tilting aids to maritime
greatness and true civilization Cermany
has advanced with great strides In the
last thirty years and has now- arrived at
the staze when it demands rocking
chairs which America Is selling willingly
Jo the Empire H W Harris the United
States Consul at Mannheim writes to
the State Department that In some parts
of Germany rocking chairs are still un
known but that there is a gradually
growing demand for them in most parts
of the Empire
A Louie Look Abend
Dr Fourthly do you think people In
the next world will follow- the same occu
pation they do in this
I think It not unlikely If the occupa
tions are useful ones and If they have en
Joyed them on this earth Why do you
Became I vtes Just wondering how
much Battenberg laco my wife would turn
out If she had nothing else to do for a
Billion years -Chicago Tribune
Tlic Are TVnt So llnre ns Critics
Whencer I hear of one speaking dis
paragingly of the executive ability of a
woman I ajn moved to mirth lemarkcd
a Western hotel man who Is visiting here
for a few weeks sajs the Rich
mond Times He held a newspaper
from which he had been reading an ac
count of a dinner at which the speeches
had turned on women as organizers and
his comment was drawn out by the state
ment of one speaker who was of the opin
ion that the set as a sex was unfitted
for exacting positions of profit and emol
1 11 tell of m own experience be con
tinued I bae the largest hotel in my
town and I hae a woman for a manager
When I engaged her I told her that evcry
tirae she succeeded in cutting expense ac
count without lowering the tone of the
establishment it meant something to her
At the end of the first week she came
to me and told mc that the marketing
bill was much too high She further said
she intended find ng out why it was too
high I told her to go ahead and And out
Some time later she told me the bouse
was bcng systematically overcharged hut
that the thing had been going on so long
and was so true of ever hotel in the
land that all concerned had come to look
on It as legitimate
Then she- told mc it was the fee sjs
lem It seems tht on every grocers bill
every butchers bill every bakers bill
and throughout the entire list of thee
who supplied my house the steward re
ceived a percentage She said she was
convinced that the steward did not look
on this as a dishonest method of making
money It was slrapl a prerogative of
his office
She changed all that The steward
left In a huff She did the marketing her
self for a while refused the oilers of the
merchants and insisted onbelng billed at
the legitimate she has an
other steward whohas to keep close to
the mark She has saved mc many thou
sands of dollars and Is well worth the sal
ary I give her
All through my section women are
coming to the front as executives They
drive much belter bargains than do men
A man will accept something he doesnt
want or pay a bigger price than is neces
sary for what he does not want to avoid
being bothered But a woman glories In
trade and she has to be shown the right
thing at the right price before she pur
chases If you want proof of this watch
the customers at any counter of any
store The men will come in take the
first article that Is shown them pay for
it and get away The women will spend
considerable time in careful selection and
when they halo bought something jou can
rest satisfied they get value received
The late Charles Coghlan had the light
idea about womans executive ability
when he wrote Madame for his sister to
play in The character wan that of a wo
man pawnbroker vho was wonderfully
successful Then there was A Virginia
Courtship In which the leading woman
was a banker The playwrights are keen
Judges and tie rest of the world will be
lieve In time in womans gray matter
There Ire Cruel Men Mho Declare
It a Failure
The womans club for purely social In
tercourse has ever been a tepid success
when It has not been an absolute failure
Men when asked the reason why said
Women dont like each others society
unless they are laying down the law to
each other or Women think a club a
place where something ought to happen
and they are dlsappoined when they find
onI comfort and convenience One man
was brutal enough to say Its because
vou havent a bar Introduce a punch
bowl and youll imbibe the club spirit
Such dreadful advice of course was ig
nored but nevertheless the purely social
club did not increase in number or in
membership for the simple reabon that
the best patronized organizations of the
kind were as a matter of fact what the
theatrical managers would call a frost
Some light may be thrown on the rea
son for the non paper reading or plat
form spoutlngs societys lack of success
by the following observations of Max
Bcerbohm apropos of the failare of so
cial clubs In Europe and their solid suc
cess in England The Ideal clubman
says Mr Beerhohm is he who looks gen
ial and savs nothing at all Most Eng
lishmen find little difficulty in conform
ing with this ideal They belong to t si
lent race
Social lubs flourish therefore in En
gland Intelligent foreigners feeing
them recognize their charm and envy us
them and try to reproduce them at home
But the Continent is too loquacious On
it social clubs quickly degenerate Into
bear gardens and the basic ideal of good
fellowship goes by the board In Paris
St Petersburg Vienna the only social
clubs that prosper are those which rre
devoted to games of chance those which
Induce silence by artificial means Were
I a foreign visitor taking cursory glan es
I should doubtless be delighted with the
clubs of London Had I the honor to be
an Englishman I should doubtless leve
them but being a foreign resident 1 am
somewhat oppressed by them I crave In
them a little freedom of speech even
though such freedom were their ruin I
long for their silence to be broken bore
and there even though such breakage
broke them with it It Is not enough for
me to hear a hushed exchange of mild
Jokes about the weather or of compari
sons etween what the Times sas and
what the Standard says I pine for a
little vivacity a little boldness a little
variety a few gestures A London club
as it Is conducted seems to me very like
a sarcophagus It is tolerable so long as
you do not actually belong to it
Anyone who has ever tried to read In
the reading room of a womans elub v lit
probabl declare that the Trench and Ger
man and Russian reason for failure is
that of our social clubwomen too
tmm riiM In lit Hnreiu
The camera has won another victory It
has Invaded the Turklsn harem The queen
of the harem no according to contem
porary artlstb spends her time recllnlng
y languidly upon gorgeous cushions fan
ned by picturesque slaves will be shown
In her habit as she lives and one more
Arabian Nights Illusion will be shattered
Of course It is expressly forbidden that
the photographs of women shall be circu
lated outside of the family but presuma
bly feminine vanity flourishes as well In
Turkey as In any other country and the
chances that pictures 111 not pass beyond
tho harem aie hardly worth the risk of a
white chip
The moat famous photographer of Con
stantinople Is the only one to whom the
Sultan has granted the privilege of phu
tographlng Turkish women sajs the
Philadelphia Enquirer and It is safe
to suppose that he is an object of envy to
his less fortunate fellow -citizens Tho
photographer is n recent convert to Islam
and the Sultan may have decided to show
hi in what can be done In the line of houris
by way of clinching bis zeal
The amateur photography craze which is
spreading in Turkish households opens up
possibilities more amusing than the favor
ed professional does It is said that the
women whose enforced seclusion makes
them seize upon any diversion with en
thusiasm have taken to the pastime and
urc photographing ever thing in sight
Oue of the Turkish correspondents of a
French paper tells an entertaining bit of
gossip in regard to one Turkish household
which has been undergoing most violent
d sturbances all because the other women
saw their chance of getting bacl at the
favorite of ther lord and master They
got Snap shots of her In her bad tempers
and her unbecoming clothes and part of
be collection having chanced to fall Into
the hands of the vain beauty there were
storms that rent a happy home asunder
and made one haughty Turk wish he bad
never been born
Paris 5asltons
Illustrated by Felix Fournery
- ViVSl3tCV i
4l mm wMm
mkhm I WAV
Copyrighted iooi by S M Baldwin
A Riviera Creation by Dceuillet of Paris
PARIS Feb IS Spring toilettes like
spring flowers blossom lavishly in that
international vantage ground the Riv
iera while in more northern climes the
snow and winter blasts still hold us rifeld
in their icy embrace
It Is in the Riviera where Nature and
Fashion alike unfold the realization of
their -choicest dreams To all appear
ances the lmaginitions of the leading
modistes and dressmakers have been even
more prolific than heretofore for the
number of exquisite creations Is legion
and the choice of superiority would be
difficult indeed for each embodies the
most refined taste and the very highest
art Among the many gowns of various
colors materials and designs the eye in
voluntarily seeks such models as are like
ly to be accepted later on as crlterlons by
the rest of the fashionable world
There is above all the tailor made cos
tume which has expanded its reign Into
the realm of evening wear as well which
attracts the attention It has assuiied
dainty innovations for warm weather
street wear In tho shape of linen tnd
pique gowns Many two piece costumes
consisting of skirt and bolero or short
Jacket are seen made strictly tallor maje
though much elaborated by stitchings and
New weaves of linen and cotton in all
the latest shades add to the novelty of
these summer tailor mades Of course
they require the independent blouso or
shirt waist as a complement which also
show some new designs There is for n
stance the tailor blouse modified of
courre as to amply fit but characterized
alwavs by the sailor collar and knotted
cravat The sailor collar by the way Is
a noticeable feature on many of the short
As Tliriiuuli n InH
We are putting eCBlisses irto lorgn
ettes announced the Jewelry clerk who
goes home to luncheon Of the other
boarders the oung man from the bank
was the onl one who expressed inter
Why I thought jou alwavs did that
he said What Is a lorgnette for if it
isnt to hold t eElassesT
The jewelry clerk smiled contented
Ilf just doted on imparting information
He would have hfgely enJoed posing as
the autocrat of the table only no one
but the oung inn from the bink ever
appeared entertained or instructed by his
observations Now and then the girl art
student acknowledged Ills presence and
convtrsitlon but at such times It was
usLilIy to disagree with him that she
spoke This time he Jewelry clerk said-
Vis you would be surprised to know
how man real glasss we are fitting to
the lorgnettes this season 1 thought on
knew that In the past the gre it majority
of lorgnettes were simply for ornamenta
tion and not meessary for utility It has
been the fashion for women to weir these
daintily cnamc led productions the girl
art student here whispered to the man
who dabbled In stocks on nnrglns that
the jewelry clerk talked like a gulde
Ijouk to set oft the rest of their cos
tume They wore them Just as they wore
the- chatelaines and as they later wore
what Is loosely known us the Mingle
dangle There was just pliln glass In the
thing but It was the custom
And a very pretty custom too said
the girl art student coming to the defence
of the ways of Inr vex If there Is nnj
thlng more than another which Irritates
mc beyond expression It Is the mistaken
contempt with which the Ignorant look
upon the things hat aie pretty Beauty
ought to have as much of a place In our
economy un une rulness Jut it Is the
nrovliiciil pleasure to sneer at dulutles
Wh I know some countr iirls who think
the wearing of a lorgnette Is the height of
affectation They think bt cause n girl
makes herself attractive by wearing such
things she Is stuck lip
Those girls observed the man who
dabbled In the market are the elsters of
the men who consider the wearing of a
dress suit n mark of Inferiority in the
male animal You all know how- i certain
nations character fore
swore the dress suit because the country
men who comprised his backwoods
Jaek ts also andblds fair to gain univer
sal popularity for lis stylish and youth
ful aspect
The sleeves arc decidedly more generous
in size than last vear and are prone to
elaboration but skirts are as tight as
everabove the knees with a long and flar
ing hem below In cut they are simple
enough but the garnitures are as rich as
can be procured The skirt of the past
fe seasons has bo endeared itself to Its
wearers that they have found nothing to
surpass Its grape and elegance and
though at intervals somcbcdy hints at
draperies and other changes the dress
makers as yet have found no encourage
ment to depart frum the favorite lines
As regards fabrics t Is safe to say that
everj thing or anything can be worn and
the large shops offer a multitude of fa
brics which appepl to any taste For the
dainty summer gown intended for drossy
wear the soft summer silks and woolens
are most appropriate and crepe dc chine
tulle and chiffon will add another season
to their long list of successes
Crepe de chine comes not only in all
plain colorings but In its latest devel
opments shows most charming floral
designs printed in natural tints on a
harmonizing ground It is of this ma
terial that one of the Doeuillcts most ad
mired models Is made The crepe dc
chine has a delicate biscuit colored
ground upon which are printed nas
turtiums in glowing yellows with green
follRge The color harmony reaches
perfection bv the application of rich
biscuit colored Bruges guipure There
Is i seven gored underskirt of biscuit
colored taffeta shancd very closely
over the hips and minus any fullness
whatever at the back The gores slope
decidedly below the knees and the
flare Is accentuated by a deep flounce of
chiffon of the same shade The drop
skirt Is of printed crepe dc chine and
stltuencv Fhied nt such gail and regarded
this evidence of civilization and facial
amenity as the hall mark of the dude- It
Is all a question of Ignor ince
Hut tho lorgnette really Is becoming -
thing of live persisted the Jewelr clerk
We are flllluft lots of prescriptions for
certain grades of glass to go In expensive
lorgnettes NearlKhled persons who im
agine the dont look well in spectarles are
the nrlnclnal buvers They ue th in nt
I the theatre the art gallery the bi JulI
1 uitfnnn Tl 11
gaiUI Ull CTM1 nb lCCllllia AlllJ tVlMIMt
rather be thought affected than be
bought deficient in sight
And the girl nrt student permitted tie
statement to pass Unchallenged
Liiiiclit on on A lif cls
This is an age of luxur The Distri
buting KItelieiid Limited has in ule It
possible for the busy city in in or bis tpe
n both to sit down in the- office to a
luxurious luncheon or for the budding
barrister to give n baiieinct In his own
chambers sas the London Mail That
is if the lunehers are pre pared to be sat
islleel villi an entirely vegetarian menl
Hits men and women sa the pros
pectus insinuatingly who do not wish
to leave- their office can have dainty light
luncheons vent to them in well appointed
trah In which cutlejry tablecloths eta
ire- Included Dwellers In llits who find
n ellfllciilty in procuring good cooks will
Ilnil a solution In the sstcm herein advo
Pappfve oti have chambers at Charing
Cross or Westminster or an where with
in a four mile circle of Victoria Street
our maiden aunt has come up from the
country or a friend lias looked In The
da Is wet and nu do not wish tu go out
Droii an order form Jilled In to the com
pany You can order a la carte or
ou can trust to the establishment nnil
c all for table el bote the price list com
poses a choice- of over a thousand dishes
In any cs at the time appointed a con
pieuous ellow cart will drive up to our
door At the reur end of then van Is a
Etovo heated by trays of charcoal
Troni the interior of the vun tho nt
ten lant will draw forth spotless nnpery
of the most attractive kind dishes and
cutlery of electroplate and nur luncheon
or dinner carefully reposing In Its com
ponent parts In dishes placed In a black
tin cise covered with green bnlze The
man will call back tor the dishes later in
Hit day
cub quite full all the extra width being
shirred around the hips Into several rows
of small puffs closely adjusted to the
tight taffeta underskirt Below the puffs
the fullness falls loosely and finishes
with a fitted and appllqued flare of Bruges
guipure of a shade matching ths ground
tone of the crepe de chine
The bodice has a tight lining of biscuit
colored taffeta and closes at the back
There Is a yoke with collar and attached
pointed epaulettes of Bruges guipure and
over this Is arranged the novel drapery of
the flowered crepe de chine which is
gathered over the lace oke Into diagonal
rows of puffs like the top of the skirt
Tho fullness thus formed shapes the full
blouse which Is caught under the skirt
te the walst IInc Shoulder straps of
folded biscuit colored panne apparently
hold the silk draper in place The sleeve
Is comfortable In width though close fit
ting and finishes at the wrist with a deep
pointed cuff of appllqued guipure The
shoulder Is gracefully garnished by the
overhanging extension of lace yoke
The possibilities of headgear as a com
pletion of the dainty summer gown are
vast as Is the choice of materials and
shapes Hats however show little differ
ence from last years millinery There is
the same flatness and the same wealth of
floral garniture Tho gold glitter alone is
a novelty and though it Is artistically
subdued it is still evident in almost every
millinery creation for spring and sum
mer wear and the ostrich plumes so
strangely conspicuous by their absence
last jear have reappeared They are nev
er posed high however but generally form
a graceful drapery over the turned up
hrlm A few demi season toques have the
wlro iramc draped with gold gauze and
that In turn is completely veiled with
black tulle Tho effect Is stylish and gen
teel and a bunch of rich pink roses gener
ally adds to the color scheme
Olill rililoned Annies
A popular minister who has a fashion
able living living Is the correct term
when speaking of ministers of this gen
tlem ins denomination Is called upon
during the course of the ear to fasten
upon many n iung hopeful a given
nimc which shall Inst as long us the
christened one has being The minister
was mi entertaining talker at a recent
afternoon reception in his neighborhood
sus a writer In tho New York HeralJ
The conversation had turned on otlcla
tlng at christening parties
I have noticed a queer point within the
lust eur or so be remarkeel
When 1 was some ears ounger in
the service- I was at tirst rather aston
ished at the number of times I woul I be
usked to repeat at the fount I christen
thee Violet A great many parents
especially those In whom the poetic and
Hie sentimental were firmly developed
had a fondness for having their chiljre ii
bear n imes suggestive of flowers and a
ver prctt custom it is too By far tha
greater number who fancied floral names
chose Itose
Then the month of the- birth had a
good deal to do with the selection of the
name I have christened In February a
large number of girls fastening to them
the name Primrose In comparison with
the other flowers however the primroses
were scarce March is the month for vio
lets and the- majority of girls 1 christened
In th it meinth were called the tender
n ime Then In July came the lilies and
they came in profusion Glor which I
luke It is a contraction of morning glorj
has September reserved for her use
There was also somo ears qgo a de
mand for the naming of children accord
ing lo the precious stones I have- chris
tened a vast number of girls Ruby and
Pearl and there have been lesser num
bers of Iter is Asterias and Garnettas
But the present day custom seems to
be for the old fashioned Mothers now
adas ask to havo their daughters called
Margaret or Elizabeth or Doroth or
Prlvcllla or Phjllis And Mar Is and
alwas will he u strong favorite
nlllltnry Dlncov i ry
De Sappie I hadnt been talking with
him five minutes before he called me an
Bhc Why the dela -Smart Set
D The Snrpaaa t In lrnctlrnl
Hard as It may be to admit It it seems
as If dolce far nlente Italy were ahead of
us when It comes to the practical train
ing of womankind We talk a good deal
about public school cooking classes
classes and singing classes and most
often are weary listening to plans for ser
vants tminlng schools that never mate
rialize In points of antiquity and per
sistent reiteration the story of the ser
vants training school Is almost as fa
mous as the womans hotel story
In the mean tlpie our households are In
chaos for want of good domestics and our
nerves In tatters through toing to drill
Incompetent help As for a shopgirl
who knows a trade or a factor hand that
knows any trade but the one she Is en
gaged in at the moment where can they
be found
They do things differently In easy
going Italy says the New York Com
mercial Advertiser Technical teaching
or a business education there is not
theoretical Things are not taught mere
ly They are learned A smattering of
knowledge among the pupils of the trade
schools is as rare as an ugly girl the
oldest of these training schools Is In
Home and was established as long ago
ns 176 It has SOU attendant scholars and
many more are waiting to Join when It
moves from tho larire old Dalazzo which
it overflows Into still larger premises As
soon as their elementnry education is
complete I e -it about twelve years of
ngtr girls begin to attend these schools
They are mainly the daughters of the
workpeople poor but though there is
often actual want in the homes Italian
parents are full of foresight and capable
of making every sacrifice to enable their
girls to stay on at school for three four
end even six years so as to ensure for
them a thoroughly efficient education
Certain studies are compulsory At first
one is surprised to find that a certain
technical standard of drawing is included
among thc but It has been found that
a knowledge f drawing quickens the ob
servation trains hand and eye and re
fines the Individual as no other study
does Cooking and the less elaborate
kinds of needlework are likewise compul
The truly striking part of these Institu
tions is the excellence of the work shown
and the perfect master over their ma
terial acquired by oung girls of from
fifteen to seventeen Such embroideries
ns they habitually execute could hardly
be seen In this countr out of schools of
art These school girls are drawing de
signs coping ancient brocades In a man
ner indistinguishable frorc the originals
working bedhanglngs for a royal palace
or gorgeous vestments In gold and coral
nnd seed pearl for ecclesiastical digni
taries the silks for which are all dyed
on the premises Drawing is taught for
purposes of designing with every care to
encourage originality geometrical draw
ing black nnd white and fashion drawing
for Illustrated JournMs are also studied
and a high level of excellence is exacted
In the artificial Hover room the work
done could hold its own against the finest
productions of French fingers In an
other room all the old laces are repro
duced The fine passementeries and trim
mings used In the dressmaking depart
ment are made in the schools silk vests
and stockings are knitted by machinery
while mending Is elevated to the rank of
a fine art and patches are Inserted In
torn garments which are literally Invisi
The same students who have obtained
certificates in these delicate accomplish
ments will be able to turn out piles of
finely ironed and gauffered garments tan
make exquisite underlinen cut out and
make a dress efficiently and will go into
the large kitchen with its rows of bur
nished copper utensils and cook a good
plain dinner with a knowledge of the
scientific principles Involved
At the examinations tasks are set to
be done against time and a girl will pass
triumphantly through half a dozen ti sts
In the course of two or three das A
oung woman who has obtained her cer
tificates and who goes thus equipped into
the labor market is at no loss for em
ploment She is always able to earn
nearly double the wages accepted by the
untrained often much more She may
become a teacher in one of the institu
tions or a ladys maid at a high salary
she may decide to be a florist an embroid
eress or a dressmaker she may work In
her own home at ironing or fashion draw
ing or take a situation as bookkeeper
but in any case she knows her own value
and If one trade Is slack she can turn to
another Sho and her fellow students
form the aristocracy of labor among the
women of Italy They keep up trices and
work at the top where there Is and for
a long time will be plenty of room for
the best Similar institutions have been
established In Florence Milan Turin
Venice and Palermo The smaller towns
are following suit
The striking efficiency attained so young
Is due perhaps in some measure to a
natural aptitude In the Italian partly to
the excellence of the teaching and super
vision the devotion of teachers stimu
lated and sapported on every hand with
enthusiasm and above all to the unre
mitting six hours a day application dur
ing those ears when the girl is pecuiarly
receptive but In which with us she Is
too often sacrificed to the supposed neces
sity for earning an Immediate scanty
Wanted n Corkscrew
A short time ago there was a fire In a
fashionable house says an exchange It
was a big enough fire to cause considera
ble of a scare though the bouse did not
burn down and nobody was scorched It
caught the kitchen woodbox The cook
threw the match she lighted the lamp
with in there and the head of It being in
candescent set things afire
The cook was an excitable person and
when she saw smoke coming up from un
der the cover she did not throw on water
but called her mistress This woman has
the reputation of beiflg a cool hand In an
emergency and viewed the situation with
an unmoved eye Then she went Into the
back hall and remained while the fire ate
Its way through tho wood box The cook
was upstairs packing her trunk When
the mistress of the house returned the
wall of the kitchen was going In good shape
and she decided that It was time to call
for help The neighbors came in a hurry
bearing pails of water for tho pipes in
tho house were frozeix After a while the
fire went out under the Influence of gal
lons of water which ruined the wall pa
per in the dining room
At supper time the worrans husband
came home and looked at the damage
Why on earth didnt you use those hand
fire grenades that are In the back hall
asked he wondering when he saw them
all In their little rack
My dear replied his wife steadily I
tried to but I hunted all over this house
and couldnt find the corkscrew
Fnvors AVciiimn SuiTrnKc
At the recent annual meeting of he
members of the New York Hebrew Techni
cal School for Girls Mark Twain had
this to say about woman suffrage I
have been a woman suffragist for a long
time Since the first step was taken In
that movement in 1S33 there has not been
a year in which women have not scored a
victory agaiust villainous laws which op
press them I dont care who makes the
laws so long ns I can see the whip lash
of tho ballot in womans hands If I live
for twenty five years more I expect to tec
woman armed with the hfllot She is the
source of morals States are founded on
morals not on Intellect If woman could
occasionally vole her vote depend upon
It would be exercised righteously In a
crisis such as the present for example
she would go to the polls and elect a
ma or who would sweep corruption away
If she had a say the city would not be In
Us present state Altogether I do not
think much of civilization but New York
Is a shame to such civilization as there
Japanese llridcs
The Japanese bride dressed in a long
white silk kimono ami white veil sits up
on the floor facing her future husband
Two tables stand near and upon one aro
two cups a bottle of sakt and a kettle with
two spouts Upon the other side n minia
ture plum tree typifying the beauty of
the bride a miniature fir tree which sig
nifies the strength of the bridegroom and
a stork standing upon a tortoise tepre
senting long life and happiness The two
spouted kettle Is put to the mouth of the
bride and bridegroom alternately signi
fying that they are to share each others
JoS and sorrows The brldo keeps her
veil and It Is used as a shroud when she
Critics Continue to Be Exerciwrt
Over 3IncltmV Planner
Should She Accept or llcfaar nn Of
frred Scat or Shonlrt She
Ilcceitnlc the nnd Sit
Down vVhnt Men Irobnbljr Think
The proper demeanor of woman on the
street car when a seat Is vacated for her
has frequently been the subject of dis
cussion Whether shn should plump her
self Into If without a word as If she had
merely received what was due her
whether she should protest that she had
only a short distance to ride and that
she really could not deprive him of his
seat arc some phases or the question
Tiere Is something to be said In favor
of all the courses and nearly as much on
the other side The discourtesy of the
vvonmn who takes a seat as If It belonged
to her Is alleged by some critics to have
led to the preent nttltuTe of the- men
who no longer feel themselves called up
on to give up their seats to women On
the other hand women who accept tho
proffered seat with too cordial a smite are
sometimes made the object of unpl asant
attentions from men who mistake polite
ness for the indication of another mood
This Is the Justification of some women
who never acknowledge the courtesy of
the man who gives her a seat
As the man is really the more Impor
tant factor in the transaction it is In
teresting to hear his view and the New
York Sun quotes It thus
No woman ever rewards a mans po
liteness when he gives her a seat In a
car so fully as the one that quietly takes
It with a polite recognition of his court
esy and nothing more said a man who
still gives up his seat The woman who
really makes him regret that he ever
took the trouble is the argumentative In
dependent type who really couldnt think
of taking his seat and couldnt deprive
him of It as she hadnt far to ride and
wasnt tired rather preferred to stand
up in fact as she had been sitting down
all day This is the sort ot coman who
turns a mans mind toward thoughts of
murder and leads him to wish he had iue
presence of mind to take the seat again
and astonish her by sitting down just as
she firmly intends to do after she fin
ished with this preliminary protest But
he usually tries tn restrain himself al
though it is difficult when the entire car
is suddenly made conscious of his pres
ence by the womans protests
It is not the woman who doesnt notice
hU politeness that proves discouraging
on the cable cars but this effusive crea
ture who talks so nrach before she sits
Ancient Sticks to Orna
ment 3Iodem Homes
The Jack who can Jump over the new
art must be a light footed ami
sinewy person for brass bronze and sli
ver sticks measuring from three to seven
feet In height are no longer counted
among the rare and expensive furnish
ings for the handsome drawing and din
ing rooms The great ecclesiastical can
delabrum gave the ambitious house dec
orator his first inspiration for this and
so potent is the law of fashion now gov
erning the house beautiful that candle
light Is esteemed far above the clearer
and more powerful gas oil or electric
light illumination This Is of cours
where the candle and candlestick makers
score heav ily and profitably and to meet
the demand for wax paraffin and tallow
tapers and for brass crystal bronze
silver and copper sticks their skill and
ingenuity Is taxed -with the richest re
In the shops where antiques are sold
there Is hardly a pretence an longer
maintained of keeping In stock genuine
metul sticks that huve been reft from ca
thedrals snagogues or medieval
houses That supply is exhausted but
the modern imitator of classic forms lives
nobly up to his task of suppl Irg the ac
tive need for these wares A beautiful
pair of hand beaten brass or copper sticks
from the studio of a reputable modern
metal worker fetch as high a price as a
genuine antique and Just now there Is
no small amount of enthusiasm demon
strated over single massive square sticks
for the adornment of newel posts
wrought by one American artist A fine
specimen he has recently completed for a
seaside villa shows the rising sun and an
ancient caravel In high relief on one of
its sides and this handsome colaxnn fit
ted to a black oak newel post holds a tal
low taper as big as a mans wrist and
three feet tall For the same house he
wrought in silver a pair of mantel shelf
sticks in the Aubrey Beardsly stle that
seem to have taken the house decorators
heart by storm Two tall and slender
girls in close clinging draperies of silver
let fall about their narrow Ivory faces
straight mermaid locks also of silver
The streaming tresses lloat outward turn
up nt the ends and in those ends sockets
for candles are set
Art silver combined with Ivory is an
arrangement extravagantly admired In
artistic candle manufacture especially
when a design is used that xev eals the
beauty of the feminine form divine and
enameled pewter molded in these shapes
carries no small amount of commercial
weight with It At dinner parties this
season it has been the fashion to use ten
and twelve branch candelabra without
any shades When Mr William C Whit
ney gave a dinner of twenty four covers
In his great Fifth Avenue house last
month says an exchange his dining room
was lighted by 150 wax candles and on
the table every socket of the lofty many
branched candelabra held two tapers
This was achieved by the use of split
tapers or branched candles as they are
sometimes called The branched candles
have a main trunk that fits in the sticks
socket but a few inches up the trunk
divides at right angles into two three or
even live tall and separate tapers These
numberless waxed flames burned un
vhaded and the guests were much
astonished at the imported Portuguese
candles that are not only charmtngly
colored very like Neapolitan ice cream
and burning with a flame tinted to match
the red elow or blue wax
Since antique or new art sticks ha c re
vived the use of candles the dealers In
toilet supplies have Imported small aro
matic boudoir candles from France The
colors of the tapers signify the special
aroma given out In the burning and
when one or two flame softly as the toiIt
Is In progress a most rare and delicious
fragance will be- Imparted to the hair
and garments of the person who dres s
in their neighborhood It almost goes
without saing that the aromatic candles
belong in sticks that are at once orna
mental and In harmonv with the vvas
lights they hold The clove tapers fit
for example in slim and exquisite Kni
serin sticks designed to show the carna
tion plant form and with wild clematis
and jasmine the vine and flower are re
peated in the modeling of their delicite
and graceful sticks
Victorias State Hlnir
At her coronation the late Queen Vc
toria gave evidence of remarkable cour
age and self control for 50 young a wom
an The ceremonial rlug was a sze too
small and Her Majesty pointed the fact
out to the Archbishop of Canterbury
who however told her that she must
wear It whether it fitted or not and she
therefore forced it over her knuckle In
a few moments the finger began to swell
and pain her excruciatingly and as sho
afterward said It required all her self
possession to prevent her from scream
ing At last It fortunately turned black
and became numb On her way back to
Buckingham Palace she never spoke a
word until she alighted and saw her little
terrier In the entrance vestibule Thank
God It is all over she exclaimed
Theres Dash and straightway hurried
to her chamber to get the oflenin ring
off which was no easy matter Only a
few months ago Her Majesty In turning
over a jewel box found this very ring
and repeated the anecdote to Jane Lary

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