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The times. [volume] (Washington [D.C.]) 1897-1901, March 24, 1901, Second Part, Image 20

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Lent a Good Time lo Learn How to
3Iakc Your Own Hats
Tlie Aim of One Tonchcr 1 to Im
jinrt Inillvlduiillt In le While
PuiIIk Vnrj in Till en I Not n Mucin
One lnueil nit Absolute Fnllurc
One of the most popular as well as one
of the most profitable studii s to under
take during Lent is the making f hats
There are nny number of pretty girls
and others not so pretty who feel that
they need the aid of a becoming hat to
increase their charms and there are uoc
tors -nixes and lawyers and ministers
nixes also who are learning to make their
own hats They do not confine themselves
to the Lenten season for the art is ra
that is worth learning it all times Hut
at this time of the year all women s
thoughts turn with more or Ices i lcas
ure to bonnets and when prices cf ma
terials are at their higher and icndy
made hats are hardly to be looked at be
cause of the bis dollar nark altichcd to
them the woman who han n Ingenuity
at all goes to the milliner who x ill teach
her to make her oxxn lionncts
There is a rifth Avenue milliner says
the New- York Times who makes a
business of teaching women to make hits
There is no way in which a little skill
will save so much mono and with such
satisfactory results A number of girls
who hae the reputation of dressing ex
ceedingly well have regular allowances
but these are moderate In comparison
with the amount of money many women
spend upon their costumes- Therefore
the have to economize if they wish to
enter into competition and they do this
In their millinery The ha e taken a reg
ular course of instruction learned how
to make frames or buckram and of wire
to puff and shirr and make bows to
drape veils wire lace and ribbons and
weave straw
I haxe taught over SO0 women In the
last fie j ears says the milliner teach
er and they tell me many of them that
they would not take hundreds of dollars
for what they learned The learn more
than bonnet making A woman who has
always Ilxed at home and nexer done any
thing in particular has nexer had occa
sion to think and when she gets to doing
something for herself she learns a great
deal more than there Is in the work itself
I have my own method of instruction
and a woman learns to make a hat with
out knowing It I take up different parts
of the work by degrees and it is all very
simple First I gixe a pupil a buckram
frame and tell her to make a pattern of
It In paper She draws it out with a
chalkllne and cuts It and then 1 gixe her a
sheet of buckram and tell her to go to
work and cut the hat by he pattern She
does this and then 1 let her put that aside
for awhile and learn the stitches by xxhich
the buckram Is sewed together It is not
well to tr to do too much of one kind
of xvork at a time It becomes tiresome
and then it is not possible to do good
work When the stitches are learned the
pupil sews the frame together and thus
she has the foundation of a hat
Next sho makes a wire frame She be
gins with a ball of wire and a tape meas
ure measures another hat if she is to
copy one and gets the breadth and length
puts her xxlres in place and there is a
wire frame completed It is very simple
when jou know how There are all the
other branches such as coxcring and
trimming and they can be carried on
for there are many things to
learn ffom weaving straw to curling
There is a great deal to learn in the
way of colors and shopping I tell my pu
pils In gbing about nexer look at any but
the best hats and that cheap things are
never bargains though it Is always well
to look out for a real bargain when good
things are sold at low prices There Is a
great deal In learning to utilize material
on hand In trimming a hat the face of
the woman who 13 to wear it should al
ways be kept in mind There may be ten
hats of the same shape but If they are
worn by ten different people they should
be as different as the ten people who
wear them Hats If they aro built xxith
reference to certain frocks with which
they are to be worn have Just so much
more distinction
It would be well If women who make
their ow n hats could sketch They w ould
le able to keep Ideas for pretty hats
which they see for future use Handsome
hats come In soon after the first of the
year and thej are picked up qjickly by
the people who want the newest and best
things the people w ho hax e money while
those of moderate means buy later in the
season It 16 a good idea to keep sketches
of these new hats to use when they nrc
needed But though women can describe
hats to me I hav e nex er j et had one who
could Sketch one
Probably half tae women who come to
me expect to go into business for them
selves It Is wonderful how- brave they
ere about It too Most of the women
come from out of town for business
oses 1 haxe a great many women from
f he South and they haxe gone home and
done xery wall They come here to the
city without knowing a soul find rooms
ana make arrangements to take lessons
and then work away until they feel that
they are competent to start in for them
Ijriever find people who wh5h to do it
who cant learn millinery There are
jome who do bettjr than others but there
are none who make failures or show ab
solutely bad taste They are all women
with a certain degree of cultlxation in
the first place and then If they follow
the modes it Is not xosslblo to go very
far astray Thft woman who can work
on original lines Is the one who is the
most successful for It is not the things
that are the best but those which haxe
their own individuality
The Thin Woman
The slim built graceful woman will al
ways haxe the advantage of looking bet
ter than her heaxler sister She will re
tain a youthful appearance often until
she Is 60 when her daughters may look as
old as she does while the oxer plump wo
man begins to look matronly when she is
tS often earlier For that reason it is
entirely right that women should do all
they can to remain within the weight
that accords with their height nnd type
Five pounds Increase in weight Is easily
discerned It can as easily be put away
without any trouble or any rigorous diet
er treatment Ordinary exercise or a do
ing away with whatever article of diet
or mode of life causes the gain will rap
idly remoxe the result Sometimes an al
most unnoticed item will add rapidly to
weight When strawberries come In sea
son many people will take on flesh not
through the fruit but on account of the
cream that Is taken dally with the ber
Physicians generally are opposed to the
strenuous banting methods that women
Indulge In In the endeavor to rapidly dis
pose of bulk sayB an exchange
walking in the open air mild ex
ercise begun moderately and gen
erally increased is advocated by every
doctor but the drugging resorted to Is
most Injurious and often fraught with
serious consequences
There Is hardly a probability that the
present rage for thinness among women
will become more than a fnd At the col
lege the American girl rennln the same
splendid normal type that she has become
within the last ten years which haxe
banished to many evils In the way of un
healthful dressing The society woman
may copy the English Burn Jones angel
for the spring of 1901 but In all likelihood
the summer girl will return to her chif
fons her frills and her ruined petticoats
The spasmodic attempts that fashion has
made in sears past toward pulling the
feminine skirts tight about the limbs have
always yielded to the more eenslble and
modest moderation that has marked the
dress pf the American women who long
ago abjured the hideous eccentricities
which the fashion plates of tventx fixe
years ago bear witness to
A Woman llutclirr
It is a trite observation possibly that
women aro pushing their way Into occu
pations formerly occupied exclusively by
men One would hardly expect however
to hear of a woman butcher but Roches
ter has one and Is rather proud in the
pellefthat she Is the only example of the
kind in the United States She is Mls
D E Stevenson and does all the work of
s reguUr butcher the buying quartering
etc and as her photograph would indi
cate is young rather pretty and not at
all such a person In appearance as one
Would expect to nnd engaged In such a
mju eulln pursuit
Till Title IleloiiKx o Minx Roberts
of Iriclnln
The Inauguration brought to Washing
ton an nttractlxe young daughter of the
Old Dominion xvho deserves for one rea
son at leat to be ranked with Virginias
famous sons
Her name Is Miss May Alley Roberts
and her title to distinction comes from
her haxing when a gin of sixteen taken
charge of a mortgaged farm of 1C7 acres
and in less than six years lifted the
encumbrance and so substantially im
proxed it by fencing ditching and xxith
outhouse and home additions that her ad
miring neighbors haxe gixen her the
sobriqui t of Farmer John
Miss Krbtrts father died leaving a xxife
and several daughters f whom May xxns
the joungest Insteai of scllng the
homestead as Is too often the eae In ag
ricultural districts when there is no man
to manage the estate the plucky little
girl rm de up her mind that she could
take up the xxork xxhere her father lift
It if she were gixen a fair ch ince Luck
il sho had her way and there Isn t a
farmer in her section of the country p
djy xvho Is not proud of her success In
a Held that In Virginia at least is al
most entirely new to women
Tarmer John is a winsome girl xxith
blown hair and a joyous laugh and whlie
she e n joy s her y early x lsits to the Ca pital
she is very certain that she prefers her
home In Orange County on the Rapldan
She admits that farming Is hard work
but declares that it pays If properly man
aid Last year she harvcsU el a wheat
crop of twenty -five acres and her xaca
tlon to town xvas taken while her two col
ored hards were plowing for the corn
crop xxhich she will begin planting ac
cording to her custom on April 5 In ad
dition to grain she raises a quantity of
stock horses cattle sheep and hogs
which she ships to Washington She also
sends dresseiTpoultry to the markets here
In busy seabons she rises before sun up
and goes first thing to the stables to see
that the hands get to work She hires
two men steadily and takes on extra
help at harx est and other busy seasons
All day long she Is on her horse riding
about the fields to superintend the pow
ing and seeing that the stock Is prop
erly fed She Is particularly fond of
horses and brcaKs cxery colt she raises
She has her own especial horse for road
riding but her farm work has alxvays
been done xxith old Betty who has be
come so accustomed to farming In part
nership with her young mistress that If
she happens to ride her on the man road
the old mare considers It her duty to fol
loxx every plowman she sees in a neigh
bors field The family haxe added to
their rexenue the past lexv jeans by tak
ing summer boarders and In ordr to
properly cater to them Former John
raises quantities of poultry and xegeta
blcs and fruits of every sort There was
no Ice house on the place and this x In
ter she decided to dig one hen she
had superintended Its building she haul
ed twenty -one loads of Ice a distance of
fixe miles which augurs well for the com
fort of her summer boarders In the hot
days to come
Miss Victoria Roberts who Is txxo years
older than Farmer John does all the
dairv xxork on the farm She Is equally
successful In her special line and not
only keeps the family supplied hut sells
at a good profit to the neighbors
He Flunrinlird in Frnnee Oxer Three
Centurlcrt Aso
At least three centuries before the name
of Worth became a household word
among the female French votaries of
fashion the ladles tailor as we now
term him flourished In Trance That
Inveterate gossip and scandal monger
Brantome mentions him as a familiar
purveyor to the court beauties during the
reigns of the last of the Valois and the
first of the Bourbons Mme de Sexlgne
in a letter dated November 16TC Elves an
elaborate description of a gown made for
Mme de Montespan by Langlee the son
of a chamber woman of Anno of Austria
Rnd upon the whole there Is a graxe
doubt abojt women haxing borne any but
a subordinate share in the production of
outer garments for their sisters To be
absolutely correct sajs the New Yort
Commercial Adxertlser there Is no doubt
at all considering that it wanted nothing
less than a rojal edict to enable women
to enter Into anything like competition
with men In the manufacture of the upper
wearing apparel of their own sex
The measure might haxe been delajed
for another century but for Louis XlVs
personal feeling In the matter for com
mon fairness had nothing to do xxith It
During his long occupancy of the throne
of France he looked upon himself and
required others to look upon Mm as little
less than divine though like the gods
on Olympus he could be as Jealous as
the meanest mortal The first trait caused
him to dislike being handled and touched
by tailors while being measured and
fitted for his clothes the second made
him ex en more reluctant to see the wo
men he loxed or professed to ioxe sub
Jeeted to the same ordeal especially after
a courtier who was present on one of the
latter occasions remarked that the tailor
thus operating was plus modiste que
modeste Consequently notwithstand
ing the opposition of the tailors he
granted letters patent to the seam
stresses to form thcmselxcs Into a cor
pora on
There were still many xcxatlous re
strictions Imposed upon them For In
stance they could not keep a stock of
materials for their patronesses Jo choose
from the latter being obliged to furnish
their own stuffs At the present time the
number of ready -made gowns exported
from Paris to alt parts of the clxlllzed
globe amounts to thousands and the cap
ital embarked In that trade Is said to run
Into millions of francs Up to the Revo
lutlon tnese frocks had to be despatched
on the backs of life sized dolls or dummy
figures the traffic being considered as u
business in dressed dolls and In the
archlxcs of the French Foreign Office
thre Is to be seen an amusing corre
spondence between the Cabinets of Ver
sailles and St James on the subject of
the safe couduct o such a lay figure
which was anxiously expected on the
banks of the Thames at the moment of
the outbreak of the Spanish war
In spite of this clogging of fair trade
and hampering of indlxldual liberty there
emerged from the ranks of the seam
stresses a woman who In the fashionable
world presided oxer by the ill fated Marie
Antoinette attained a degree of celebri
ty and of whose self sufficiency assump
tionnot to say presumption and oxer
wcenlng professional anlty many amus
ing stories are told although the Me
moirs she Is supposed to haxe left must
be read with caution Inasmuch ns It has
been proved beyond doubt that the great
er part of them are purely apocryphal
The fame of Hose Bertln was however
eclipsed more than a drcade before her
death by who like Worth half a
century subsequently began his career
In partnership with a woman
There wan not a xvoman of fashion in
Europe who between the cars 1S01 3
did not llgure on the ledgers of Leroy
his most notable clients among the Eng
lish aristocracy being the Duchess of Wel
lington the Duchess of Dexonshlre Lady
Ailesbury and Lady Waldegraxe Ncxer
thcless the tailor made dress as we un
derstand It was not so much as dreamt
of Ex en Worth man of genius In his
profession though he unquestionably was
had no definite conception of It until the
latter years of his unchal
lenged autocracy In the world of feminine
adornment The beauties of the Secoml
Empire xxandering through the glades of
Scnart and making the roads of Com
piegne resound with laughter certainly
wore cloth Jackets tailor made and cloth
skirts festooned and looped up oxer re
splendent scarlet petticoats distended by
enormous crinolines but there was not
xvhat for lack of a better term one must
call the unity of
design In their cos
tumes such as we knoxv it today
There were no apparently rough home
spuns no cunningly woxen tweeds of de
liberately conspicuous designs there
were no signs of any Intended approach
to masculinity there was no evidence
of the tailor instead of the dressmaker
haxing presided at the conception nnd
execution of those xestments The
tailor made in fact was probably the
slow evolution of the riding habit and
although on the face of it the fair sex Is
Indebted for the former In Its latest nnd
perhaps definite shape to England there
Is somewhat striking collateral evidence
that the germ of It did not spring from
an Englishmans brain Enquiries In
variably lead to the discover that In
some of the best houses both in London
and Paris the principal cutters and fit
ters of the tailor made gown arc
nither Frenchmen nor Englishmen but
Germans and Poles In the Paris strike
which has not as yet run Its course the
chief agitators and ringleaders belonged
to those nationalities
Which Do You Prefer Pink Music
or Itedf
Mme Alice Le Plongcon gave a reading
In New York the other day when she told
a drawing room full of people all about
The Rainbow and Its Melodies
The speaker Illustrated her theory con
cerning the importance of color as one of
the great forces of nature by wearing a
green goun with draperies ot xlxld red
The trimming was used lo demonstrate
the x alue ot red In raiment and In na
ture The New York Tribune dis
cusses the lecture as follows
To exemplify the warlike effect of red
Miss Munro in a rich contrail -voice
sang a Scottish battle song Bonnie
Prince Charlie but she was robed in a
Greek gown ot Tale blue with a rirst
Empiro comb In her half To the un
Inltlat d this was an lrcongruous note
but as the speaker said Color Is accord
ing to our xlbratlons and scarlet may
not be scarlet to ou the Greek gown
may haxe appeared as royal purple or
rose pink to those in the audience whose
vibrations leaned that way
Every object said Mme Le Plongcon
has Its own tone and ex cry sound has a
color and If your color Is violet your
voice will be sweeter when you are sur
rounded by xlolet
The connection between color and music
was illustrated by the harp whirh Is sup
posed to suggest red and warlike and san
guinary things the lute to which belong
green nnd xerdant lawns while the guitar
Is accompanied bj jellow the faded color
of Spain To Illustrate pink music Miss
Mary V Sinclair plajed Elizabeths
Praxer from Tannhauscr on the
piano Later on she gave the Introduction
to Sonata Traglca by MacDowclI and
the Sonata Pastorale by Beethoxen
The speaker Implored her hearers to
consider the uses of color apart from their
Importance In the fine arts adding By
studxlng the effect of color upon ourselves
we may better understand our own tem
perament and learn to know ourselxes A
Knowledge of the curntlxe properties of
light and color may diminish our bodily
pangs and enable us to Increase our vigor
as well as our beauty According to
Mme Le Plongeon when a criminal com
mits a crime or the enterprising burglar
goes a burgling a red aura exudes from
his bod However if one In a red gown
approaches caged birds they will exhibit
Intense excitement
The lady failed to state what dreadful
thing would happen If one In a red
gown were to approach a pasture field
In which browsed the average cow
Parts Jcjsfyions
Illustrated by Felix Fournery
i 111 mm WiixM Sibr
Copyrighted igai by S M Baldwin
PARIS March 11 That fashion like
history rexolves In circles and repeats
itself Is more than ever proven by the
latter day creations of the great coutur
iers We haxe had our nil of the loxely
Empire models whch during the past
fexv seasons held tho taste of all fash
ionable women spellbound There were
Empire gowns for street and Indoor wear
Empire coats Empiro headgear Empire
accessories until from sheer desire to
change popular taste rexolts and wo now
find that in direct opposition to the loose
draperies of tho Napoleonic era the tight
lines and dainty chic of the Louis XV
period haxe uecji adopted Liko the Em
pire styles they are modified howexcr
by modern taste and modern require
ments but that they aro faithful to
certain prototpes cannot be gainsaid
3 he most notable feature Is the little
coat talis which xxero the first step to
ward adopting these styles and which
had made their appearance at the end of
the winter They were then short pleat
ed affairs attached rather Incongruously
to tho back of the Eton Jacket tho
straws as It were which showed tho way
the wind blew but they haxe developed
more decidedly In tho latest models and
haxo combined with the rexers and em
broidered ests and elboxxs sleeves to
make a characteristic whole
One of Doeuillet s most approved mod
els Is a fair representatlx e of these latest
fashion tendencies It is of the tailor
A Doeuillet Tailormade for Spring Wear
xariety though it lacks the stiff uni
formity of that kind of costume and can
bo classed among tailor mades only by
the careful workmanship which it de
notes The skirt Is of biscuit colored
cloth mounted upon a foundation of silk
of the same shade The front gore of
cloth simulates a narroxT tabllcr and is
bordered on loth sides by two shaped
panels of ecru silk richly brocaded in
delicate floral patterns which are out
lined and embellished by hand with fine
silver thread and tiny spangles In close
imitation of the famous silks woxen in
the Louis XV period The back Is In
habit form aboxe and falls beloxx in
graceful ripples it Is in one piece and
the cloth Is naturaly cut bias The skirt
is quite long In spite of the cry against
lengthy promenade skirtsand its xxide
flare decs not differ In shape from those
worn last season The pointed Indenta
tions trimming the sides are edged xvlth
three rows of narrow black taffeta bias
bands which extend also round the hem
The Jacket is a complement lo the
stjle prescribed by the skirt It Is of the
same ecru cloth and follows closely the
lines of the figure The plain back elon
gates Into a round plain basque at the
back and is fitted out xxith a high turned
over collar and pointed rexers and teal
lops which disclose a straight xest of
brocadfd ecru silk decjrated to match
the panels of the skirt and closing down
the front with tiny silver buttons set xxith
rhlncstones The high stock is of the
same fabric as the vest and Is finished
with a tiny band of fine Brussels point
of xvhieh there Is also a small aprllque on
each rexer A gracefully knotted cravat
of black satin completes the contrasting
black note xxhich sets off dainty colors
to such adx antagc Tho black taffeta
Milliner Sympath for the Birds
The Ornithologists Union has Issued a
strong appeal to the public through the
prest for funds to assist It In the securing
of game wardens for the protection of
gulls and terns along the American const
as well as for other departments of Its
work The appeal finds a conspicuous
place In all the leading newspapers of the
country some of them using It as a leader
in their editorial columns
It goes without the sajlng that funds
will bo forthcoming In goodly amo mts
from those whoso sjmpathics are with
the Ornithologists and the Audubons for
the protection of the birds of North
America The Ornithologists Union takes
all the credit for tho making of tho
Lacey bill a law They who faxored It
must not forget howevpr sajs the Mil
liner Trade Review that had it not
been for the withdrawal of the opposition
of the Millinery Merchants Protective
Association in return for the acceptance
of Its amendment by Mr Lacey the con
test might have been prolonged even the
bill defeated Thejstatemcnts made In
the appeal as regards Milliners agents
sending postal carda to hunters offering
tho highest prices for bird plumage Is
misleading It maj have the effect of
reducing funds but It is a statement
f hat might have been true a jcar or two
ago but at present it wont stand very
close Investigation Milliners agents
if by that term they mean the raw stock
dealers are not going to pay out their
good money for a bird In the bush or
encourage a defiance of law They will
not Jeopardize their good names or their
business interests for a few paltry gulls
or terns and they have no uso for any
thing else that flies In North America
except such fowl as the naturalists delight
In as food
The milliner merchants how exer while
upholding the efforts of these good rco
ple in protecting our natlxc birds em
phatically protest against any interference
with tho Importation from other coun
tries of such plumages ns aro useful in the
arts that are pests in the countries
vvherefrom obtained and a legitimate com
modity in this country
These good people are going to extremes
with their notions of bird protection and
ure Interfering with commerce 8ooner
or later they will run against a snag in
this business and make themselves ridicu
Over the IJrldKe
Mrs Galloupe Be sure and come Mr
Glbble I promise jou you shall meet
oh quite a number of pretty women
Glbble How can 1 refuse jou ray dear
madam It will not be for Ihe pretty
xvoinen howoxer but for jou that I shall
come Brooklyn Life
bias trimming on the skirt continues
around the Jacket collar and refers and
ulsdfcm the turned oxer cuff rf the tight
elbows sleexe of the vcru cleth Large
silver buckles set with strass mark each
scallop on the Jacket
The tailor toque xxhleh accompanies this
gown la a xery modern affair and is
made of a rough tan fancy straw fash
ioned and bent with becoming undula
tions The onlv trlmmlnir consists of rich
f fancy pins and a huge rosette at the
back of each ear maue oi iancy siraw
and black xelxet ribbon These rosettes
or cabochons are a feature of the new
spring millinery though a certain chic
about it cannot be decried
It Is evident that the independent blouse
or bodice has a firmer hold upon us than
exer In spite of the hue and cry of its
enemies xxhoexer they may be for the
shops are full of the daintiest models
Tho dressmakers are constantly aiming
more at new- and graceful effects than
nt richness of materials with the result
that the loxely models are accessible to
th home dressmaker also though her
purse may bo slender refined taste and
deft fingers being all that Is required to
make up a beautiful bodice out of rem
nants ot silk or lace There seems to be
a great preference for okes this season
and a very practical predisposition it is
Hits of lace can bo utilized for the square
round and pointed empiecement noxv so
much In xogue and as they may be un
lincd they xvlll be found x ery comforta
ble for the Impending warm season Be
low the joke tho bodice is bloused and
may be encircled by dainty fichu draper
ies of sheer fabrics or unfinished with
one of tho many varieties of bolero ef
fects xxhlch promise to continue In
unabated popularity during many months
Shyloclv Conld t Kqnnl Her in Col
le ctliig Debts
Card debts with fashionable people take
precedence of any other obligation that
Is a man or xxoman may owe money
right and left to tradespeople and not
lose caste but an unpaid score at
bridge will ostracize him or her at
once Of course there are certain reasons
for tills rigor In tho first place the loser
xx ould iiqv e taken his opponents mony If
he had been tho winner and therefore
the risks must necessarllj be equal and
secondly such obligations aro purely
debts of honor But It is a curious In
stance of the unxxrltten laws that gov
ern society that a winner at cards must
be an uncompromising creditor Easy
going generous men and women xxho
would lend money willingly to their poor
er friends and nexer think of It again
turn Into Inexorable creditors xxhen the
money Is lost at the card table A stoo
ls going the rounds that at a fashionable
houso recently ono of tho guests found
that ho was unablo to pay his losses says
the New York Tribune I will send a
check tomorrow ho said thinking that
such a promise would be quite sufficient
but his hostess touched a bell My
footman Is at your orders Mr X
she said ou can send him to jour
house for anything jou want
Women are quite as strict among them
selxes as men on this point Tho father
of a pretty Oung woman xvho heard a
vociferous discussion going on In the
drawing room one afternoon on his re
turn from business looked Into the room
and was surprised to find a friend of his
daughter xxho was a great favorite ot hl3
sobbing violently while half a dozen
other girls were all talking at once
Dorothy says sho cannot pa- her losses
at bridge papa ansxx creel his daughter
to his enquiry as to xxhat was the trouble
She has lost J23 and says she has spent
all her allowance and hasnt a cent to
pnj It with Oh Is that all exclaimed
the good nnturcU man Here Dorcthy
child let me bo j our banker And he
drew out a roll of bills from his pocket
No papa No Mr X 1 chorused
Dorothys accusers Sho would haxo
taken our money it she had won She
had no right to play with nothing to pay
It was not fair and we wont haxe her In
our club any more and despite the
kind hearted remonstrances of her cham
pion and poor Dorothys tears no com
promise was allowed and the latter was
suspended until sho could pay what she
owed legitimately Its Pay pay pay
for jour credits sake at bridge
One nosfon Woman Fatlle Effort
to Eievntc Conversation
Mrs Jack from Boston Is filled with
the latest ideas Jack well Jack Is NiW
Jersey born and bred
his town said the young woman
one exenlngjis they sat in their suburban
home needs Improving I nm shocked
when I dine out to hear nothing but non
sense talked There are some clexer peo
ple here I haxe met them but when
they dine out they leave their cleverness
at home with their exeryday clothes
1 think that we should gixe some din
ncrs four nnjxvay and If we make the
first one a thorough success we can be
sure of the others We must invite both
oung and elderly people a few bright
anil a few ordinary ones because there
are not enough bright ones to go very
fnr Then we II haxe the conversation up
to a certain standard and keep it there
On the night of the first dinner party
everthing was in proper array Not a
speck of oust to gladden the eyes of the
fucsts was visible The wines were gain
ing the right temperature nnd Mrs Jack
n a liostonesque dinner gown was ready
tor her guests
I tell jou said poor Jack -that
I cim never talk at a dinner I dont
knoxx what to saj Who do I take out
Old Mrs Bangs I never spoke to her I
nexer know what to say to anyone
Never mind Jack dear 1 know that
you aro positively no good at a dinner
party Now listen 1 have written out a
list of interesting subjects and pinned It
on the table cloth See And she led
him up to the table Now dont fall me
but whenever It seems dull or people are
not taiKing iook at tnis list anu taitc or
some of tho things Even if jou dont
know about them appeal to me and Ill
help jou out there Is
Just then tho door bell rang and Mm
Jack hurried axxay to greet the first guest
After tney were seated at dinner Mrs
Jack asked the guest of honor If he had
seen the recent views on the nebular
hypothesis Ihe answer to her question
and the Interest in the subject wnvs so
slight that she looked at Jack and he
came valiantly to the rescue It docs
not seem to me he called out
that the meat has been unusually tough
What do you mean Jack This was
with a true Boston Intonation
Jack looked perplexed but Mrs Bangs
was quite animated and she and the eld
erly man next her had a discussion as to
butchers und meat that was eager enough
to let Mrs Jack to get her bearings again
ihe next subject she Introduced was
the recent affair In South Africa The
Interest In anj thing but Oom Pauls ex
cessive plainness was not marked and
after a few desultory views had been ex
pressed me conversation died out
Do or die thought Jack and looknl
at his list Speak about Janes
aprons came next I don t know what
to say about Jane s aprons but thing3
seem pretty dull so Ill dash ahead as I
was told to
I say Marj what Is the matter with
Janes aprons Aren t they all right
They look like the proper thing
Visions of the husband of her jouth at
Morris Plains Asylum danced before Mrs
Jacks eyes Aprons What was the mat
ter with him
When she had recovered a little she
heard the most man sajlng to
Mrs Bangs Now can jou Imagine me
in a check apron with a leather belt I
alnas wore them when I was a boy
Tho elderly women described black silk
and other aprons of their jouth and the
joungerones laughed merrily Mrs Jack
rather cleverly steered the conversation
around to her point again and asked gen
erally with a don
air Who has read the History of Pa
pacy In the XIX Century After ex
pressing admiration for the work of Prof
Nippold there was another silence broken
by one of the joung men who said
What a thin old gentleman the Pope Is
Good hearted Jack rushed to the rescue
and broke the deadly silence with Have
of jou had trouble with getting good
butter lately
The floodgates of conversation were
opened nnd joung and old sailed out on
the stream Boarding school college club
summer hotel ard gilt edge butter was
discussed and talked of and amid peals
of laughter the dinner was ended
The men smoked going as they pleased
conversationally and the ladies in the
dmxxing room carried on the conversation
on the lines laid down by their host at
After everyone had gonp Jack said
with an air of conscious rectitude Well
Mary that dinner went off oretty well
didnt It
Jack she said hysterically where
did jou put your list and why did jou
talk of such awful things
Awful things Why I talked about
every single thing you wrote down and
I thought I kept them going pretty well
Old Mrs Bangs squeezed my hand when
she left and said she wished she could
always sit by me at dinner They all said
It was a Jollj dinner
But what made jou talk about meat
and Janes aprons and Oh Jack It was
too dreadful
Great Scott Mary didnt jou give me
the list here It Is See It begins Speak
about tough meat speak about Janes
aprons last butter from grocers bad
I talked about them all just as you asked
me to and If I hadnt I think jour din
ner part would have been pretty dull
Marv took the list It was her memo
randum for the day On the back of it
she had written the list of subjects lor
Jack Unfortunately or fortunately It
depends upon the point of view in pin
ning it on the tablecloth the memoran
dum side was uppermost
Self consciousness is often a barrier to
popularity in social life and it Is a mal
ady from which some girls suffer Not
everyone can be graceful and easy but
one can bo self confident without being
self assertive serene and dignified with
out being dull Morbid fears as to what
others are thinking and over anxiety as
to ones appearance may be overcome
Little nervous mannerisms a lack of re
pose consciousness of ones clothes are
all bad form and to be avoided says the
Delineator One of the most carefully
dressed as well as attractive women I
ever met had been required In her girl
hood by her mother to attend scrupu
lously to every detail of her toilet and
then to think no more about It after
leaving her room No touches to hair
and drawing on of gloves were permitted
after she had left her bedroom If these
apparently trifling matters had been neg
lected she was obliged to return to her
room to attend to them For this early
training which seemed irksome at the
time she nexer ceased to be thankful
when she grew older She acquired ex
treme neatness In her personal appear
ance and an entire freedom from any
fussy consciousness about It
No one can make a good Impression or
talk agreeably if half absorbed in putting
on gloxes cl isping a bangle or a pin or
arranging stray locks of hair It is a
mark of good breeding to be neatly dress
ed In sverj detail and never to appear
conscious ot ones clothes Sometimes
one sees a girl in a Btrcet car drawing
on gloves or adjusting a veil Even at
the opera ono frequently sees an occu
pant ot a box buttoning gloves rearrang
ing a Jewel on a bodice or touching the
ornaments In the hair These
manners In public are bad form
and detract rrom a woman s nuna
Only Woman Jnllcr
Mrs Exelyn Smith of Greenwich Kent
County L L Is the only woman in the
country who officially occupies the posi
tion of Jail keeper Mrs Smith was born
In the building oxer which she has pre
sided for the last twenty years Tor
mere than fifty years some member of
her family has serx ed in tho position
which she now occupies She has never
been attacked by a prisoner and during
her long term of service there have been
only two escapes both of them nt the
s line time before the present modern Jail
was completed Mrs Smith rarely has
trouble xvllh a prisoner even those who
aro brought Into the Jail by force quiet
ing dovxn under her Influence She de
clares that no class of people are quicker
to appreciate kind treatment and cour
tesy than criminals and that It Is much
easier to handle them with pleasant words
than with handcuffs and solitary confine
ment The number of prisoners under
Mrs Smiths care averages ten During
her temporary absence from home her
place as Jailer Is taken by her daughter
Mrs Annie Burdlck
llcrnltnrdt art n Hunter
Tew of those who have seen Samh
Bernhardt behind the footlights knuw
that this famous woman is a great hunter
and enjoys nothing better than a day je
hlnd the dogs when the weather Is fir
nnd the game good She has been In N iw
Orleans recently arid while there ti ok
one of her hunts She was accompanied
by Louis Rapo the famous hunter avd
had a successful day
3Iiss Gonncs Friends Liken Her to
the 3Ioitl of Doiarcmy
Born lii Kerry Bnt With Relatives In
tlir Service of tho Crown She Do
flex Her Family by Denouncing
EiiRlnnil nt Home and Abroad
Maude Gonne Is the daughter of an of
ficer in the- ingllsh armr the niece of a
British general the cousin of a British
captain the only sister ot tho wife ot
Colonel Pitcher now serving the Crown
In South Africa and a member of a fam
ily that has for generations belonged to
the landlord classes She whoso early
life and surroundings would have tended
to make of her an ardent English sym
pathizer has cast aside all personal feel
ings and family ties to undertake and
carry on the work for tho freedom of
She was horn In the County Kerry no
matter how long ago for she Is a young
w oman jet says awriterlntheSt Louis
Star After her early childhood spent In
her native country amid scenes of com
parative pleasure she was taken to the
Continent to complete her education Sho
studied in France and Germany where
she received training and education far
superior to the average Irish lassie
When she was but seventeen years of
age on a visit to her home she was an
unwilling witness to a peculiarly cruel and
heartrending eviction of a poor Irish
The case was extreme Several
children and an Invalid mother were driv
en out into the rain and cold because
they were a few cents behind In their
rent The mother died during the night
from exposure This sight and the mem
ory of it alienated tne young girl from
England and converted her- entirely to
the cause of Ireland Her antipathy to
the British dates from this eviction
The sight has remained with hec ever
since It has stirred her to revolutionary
action and thoughts It has endowed her
with eloquence and has Imbued her with
an almost superhuman ability In leading
others toward the salvation of Ireland
She lias denounced England and the Brit
ish In many countries but has devoted
hrself mainly to work in three king
doms w here she has addressed meetings
political prisoners and lrr every
way kept the public attention fixed cm
the unfortunate life and condition of Ire
la nil For sev eral j ears she has been the
very life and soul of the amnesty move
ment in England and Ireland She has
visited America several times and her
work here Is well known Against Eng
land is Maude Gonnes motto When the
South African war broke out Bhe at once
entered the field to assist the Boers as
much as she could She has spoken
throughout Europe ana has succeeded In
arousing much sympathy for tne ourgh
ers This is her present mission In this
country She Is a very effective speaker
and brands the rule of the Englishand
the army In w hlch her father servedand
for which her entire family Is personally
concerned In language most volatile Her
principal success in the matter of tho
Boer war has been In preventing the
young lnsn bojs from Joining the Brit
ish She has traveled throughout
the length and breadth of Ireland several
times in this work and has enlisted the
support of the mothers and slsten of the
island In this endeavor She has suc
ceeded in making the service in the Brit
ish army odious to the Irish mind to a
degree never before conceived
Who Is This Mysterious Creator of
Ianhlonnble Fndnf
Whence crt2e the modes The student
of history may well lay asldo his folios N
and his original manuscripts and his work
in the British museums and devote his
attention to the contents of his grand
mammas garret those chests in which
silks embroideries woolens and coarsely
woven cottons and homespuns will tell
the more truthful and the more vivid
When Chateaubriand got back from ex
ile he went as was natural to a j outh of
his temperament not to the Assembly
first but to the salons of his few remain
Ins friends They were all good royalists
but through closed doors and shut blinds
and upon whispers fearful and hoarse
had entered the Fashion
These ladles who were ready to die for
the old regime who would mount the
scaffold tomorrow with a vlve le rol
were decked in short walsted garments
that were bound beneath the arms with a
girdle the latter were bare and their
hair was cut short and curled In tiny
waves over their heads The coiffure a
la guillotine as thev described it In the
hairdressers shops was a style adopted
as well by the ladles of the court as by
Camille Desmoulins Even England
shuddering over the horrors of the Revo
lution and afterward training her mili
tia and throwing up useless breastworks
against the Invasion of Bony discard
ed her stay s put patches on her ruddy
cheeks and was an insular copy of the
Parisian dressmaker
When Eugenie became slim and a trifle
awry- on one side says the Baltimore
Sun hoops were the mode and it was
impossible to crowd more than two doz
en women Into the largest ballroom In
vain the tender maid whispered Come
nearer I cant hear jou The most ar
dent of lovers could not get within three
feet of his adored one and those who are
Inclined to scoff at the Influence of the
styles mav as well look at a picture of
Victoria shortly after her visit to her
cousins in the Tuilleries The Prince
of Wales who is supposed to be leaning
against her is fixe feet off separated
from his loving mamma by what seems
to be a hogshead made of coopers staves
covered with flowered brocade the in
fant Dukes of Connaught and Edinburgh
held maternal fashion under each arm
but at such a distance from her figure
that they look like animated pillars In
kilts resting on a billowy waxe and
Prince Albert for once in his life was out
of sight and Incapable on account of tho
space that separated them of whispering
the sound moderate Teutonic adxice that
made the Empress of India something of
a hausfrau and tho maids of honor plain
but respectable
Orlsln of the Skirt Dance
The woman who Invented the sclrt
dance seems to have been more famous
than anybody supposed It was no less
a person say s the Cincinnati Enquirer
than Emma Hart of London Lord Nel
sons Lady Hamilton That Is the persyn
Franclsque Sarcey has selected as the
real originator of the dance which in Its
somewhat degenerated and present estate
Is largely a matter of calcium lights and
dress goods A letter which M Sarcey
quoted was written by Goethe and de
scribes what the French critic takes to
be the origin of the danc Tho famous
German wrote in March 17S7
Sir William Hamilton who Is still the
British Ambassador here after having
studied the works of nature for so long a
time has found a beautiful young woman
the most delightful thing in art or nature
She Is an English woman very beautiful
In face and figure She gives an enter
tainment dressed in a Greek costume
Her hair hangs loose She takes two
shawls In her hands anil she so varies
her attitudes gestures and play of fea
tures that It Is like a dream Kneeling
standing sitting she assumes by turns
an expression of exaltation repentance
anxiety remorse affection
The skirt dance now- Is so much tho
work of the electrician and the limelight
man that it is agreeable to find the origi
nal Inventor of its grace and beauty was
a woman
The ltomiiMce of a IUnc
He was grain with dreamy eyes Into
the far-on-ahead
Ah my darling he murmured what
matters it that sorrow and trouble must
of necesltv be lurking In the unknown
future While I nm with you I think ot
naught but the present the beautiful su
perb present I
So do I dearest she replied but
you 11 take me with jou when jou buy It
wont j ou Men have such queer tastes
In rings Leslies Weekly
Why She Grinned
Carrie Charley thinks my new gown
just beautiful He said last evening It
was n perfect dream What arc you
ferinnlng at7
Madge Oh nothing I was only think
ing that Charley told me only today h
has such horrid dreams Boston Tran

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