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The Salt Lake herald. [volume] (Salt Lake City [Utah]) 1870-1909, August 28, 1898, Image 16

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058130/1898-08-28/ed-1/seq-16/

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16 f iii 1i I3K T 1i l i J S UN flAx AiiGk 2 1898 > L c 1
TREND Of AUTUMN fASUIONS
I Iti Fringes and Fichus Are Among the Featuescamels
J I 1 Half Felt Hats
i New York Aug 2GThis is the time
of the year when every new garment
a well dressed woman wears is signifi
t cant of the future and September signs
are in the air By next week all the
buyers will be crowding home from
Paris telling tales of every fresh entex
prim in woolen clothes coats and hats
etc Even now there is a revival of
custom and interest all along the coun
ters of the big shops and in the water
should rs and knotting in a soft bow
on the bust or it can be a stretch of
Liberty silk drawn up and fastened on
the left shoulder with jeweled pins
Women who possess pretty sloping
shoulders love to wear a small three
cornered bit drawn rather close and
the ends knotted small at the waist
line while one of generous proportions
prefers the fichu that floats in front
long and free from the shoulder line
I As a matter of fact b3 a discreet use
of the fichu a woman can give her fig
ure just what lines and proportions
t she needs By drawing it taut or let
ting it fall full she can conceal or re
t veal all she pleases and for this rea
son the fichu front is unfailingly noted
r on nine out of ten of the autumn mod
r cIs in cloth The fronts of such suits
srre for a slender woman made full on
the shoulder or under the army they
cross in suave line and fold over the
bust high up or low down in order to
reveal btmeath the chin a rounded or
r pointed vest of some sofi contrasting
goods Occasionally one side of this
draper passes down to the left hip and
from there lets fall a long and a short
t sash nd upon the skirt
r THE CRAVAT FICHU
1 Equally as pleasing is the tiny cravat
fichu that isadopted with the wonder
ful and hitherto unseen striped cloths
for winter and autumn wear Fancy
if you canvine red cloth finely
4 barred in black satin stripes The
r waist of this buttons up well over
the bust but springs open on the chest
in two small revers They disclose an
inner vest of rueked silk a high collar
of white silk tops off the basque but
to take away from any severity of line
a kerchief of biscuit colored lace d
ing a wisp of similarly colored silk
lawn passes about the neck under the
revers and knots artistically on thc
bust letting 3 couple of lace ends of
uneven lengths fall even below the
waist lIne
On a certain percentage of cloth
suits flat shaped fichu pieces will fold
down from the shoulder These wlll be
overlaid with lace on white satin be
made wholly of embroidered silk or of
the plain cloth itself bordered with a
silk fringe One end carrIed far down
and low under the arm will fasten
there with three large fine buttons and
the Vshaped space they leave open
under the chin will be ornamented in
dIvers ways I
LACES ARE CONSPICUOUS
Once launched on autumn topics it i
is essential to gIve some recognition of i
k the laces that on vests and the fichus I
of day gowns and in the trimming of
evening costumes will be more than
ever conspiquous for the next six
months To begin at the beginning
f biscuit tint S the choice for the ap
proaching season if new lace Is worn
ThIs is a soft rosy cream toni thae
=
harmonizes delIciously with aU the
latest gas light colors There is also
old lace color but this sooften de
generates into a tone of dirty tea
brown that the firstmentioned dye is
preferred
In spite of the charms of the ever
lovely point de Venice a species of
pretty cutout point is guaranteed to
achieve a fine place for itself and the
waved antique Valenciennes and Va
lenciennes incrustation is going to pre
I dominate on the toilets fordebu41ntes
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I SMART FIOR1JS
color sketches Ubuyers always
i send on before them from Paris most
r interesting fortunesin finery can be
told Looking over a dozen of these
r
pretty pictures anyone would prompi
catch the suggestion that fringes and
fichus will be among the most well de
fined features of autumnal splendor
Evening and calling gowns and the tai
I lor suits aU display some phase or an
other of that graceful shoulder drapery
that folds kerchiefwise over the bust
A PROTEAN FASHION
This Is a diversion of fashions which
omen stout and thin can alIke par
ticipate and with equal advantage and
the recalling of the fichu to its old time
honorable estate is an excellent means
of brInging into evidence fine old laces
and embroidered muslin that has been
worked by hand It a distant and more
artistic day
On evening dresses the fichu is quite I
Protean in its varlet of shades It may
be a scarf of precious old lace drawn
rather close about a corsage cut low I
that is after the court model on the I
There is also a new applique lace
called ruby point which in reality is a
pale ivory ecru in tone Ruby point is
worked in as heavy a pattern as Rus
sian or renaissance lace while an at
tractive but rather startling variety of
weave is a coarse black ecru or biscuit
colored net adorned a Persian pat
tern carried out exclusively in dull gold
and silver thread Orient veiling one
hears it nominated and for awhile it
is sure to maintain a right royal posi
tion for only a little fhas been im
ported and that commands a price ex
clusive to all of moderate means
OrIent veiling is easily imitated in
cheap net and gilt and at once it will
fall when vulgarized from its high
estate
FALL FEATHERS
Those who are reaping signs and
wonders on the new horizon of fashion
will not fail to observe a few first mil
linery indications of a degree of impor
tance For instance it does not take
great perspicacity to decide that feath
ers will get a big share of fall patron
age Whether complete stuffed fowls
are going to be sacrificed again to f m
mine vanity one dares not yet say but
i fans of stiff feathers will adorn the big
new toques This denotes that it Is the
I I
I spreading tail not the wing of the
bird that is wanted and plumage I
I handsomely marked with eyes and
I spots is the most desired
As never before in point of perfect
tint and firm or ragged shape are they
making autumn leaves for aflorning he
first hats of the seasonrirde of satin
1
straw and chenille Nothing could be
more promising than the indications
for the demiseason hat and the mil
liners who can gauge their patrons ap
petite for pretty surprises are garnish
ing round brown and red and rusty
green mixed hats with ribbon and
tufts of golden rod A green Septem
ber hat mace for one who will go
coaching in the Berkshire hills was of
a shade of chenille and straw known as
hay green Its crown stood an inch
and a fourth high and the twoinch
wide brIm sloped down from it All
about the crown ran a full girdle of
Ilchaelmas daisies with maple leaves
half turned from a dull green into
scarlet
There is P promise that later on
when headgear becomes a really serious
consideration with every woman popu
lar taste will be invited to whet its
appetite for novelty on a hat material
ll own as camels hair felt The speci
mens seen so far showa pretty qUay
Ity of rathCr roughsurfaces felt in
the appropriate dull l Zolors having a
long silvery wool nap spriiiging trom
it In Paris having done long ago
with the wide hat and the forward
pitch of the brim they are placing
small capotes very far on the back of
the head Whether we will follow this
initiative remains to be seen
LATE SUMMER VAGARIES
For full three weeks yet in spite of
autumn preparations the light sheath
of summer garments will notbe shed
and still interesting are some of the
diversities in white clothes Duck and
s e skirts for instance are wearIng
their Dockets anywhere but on the
1
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hips and inside the front widths Two
square catekalls with flaps that but
ton down id frankly sewed on the
frent part of the skirt within handy
reach of the wearers right and left
hands and into these shO puts her be
longings easily and comfortably The
promise of the tailors is that wool walk
ing skirts for autumn and winter shall
I be made wIth the same regard to con
venience and that none of these skirts
shall have a gather or pleat the whole
waist band round A novel pattern of
easy and graceful shape is promised
and thereby a great thanksgiving goes
up from the feminine heart
Another demonstration has been
made in the handwrought shirt waist
and a novel pattern has been evolved
that we will carry right on into the
winter wardrobes This latest mani
festation is tucked perpendicularly
from neck band to waist line In
groups of small tucks especially when
the shirt is of silk and not by a couple
of Inches do the fronts of the garmpnt II
meet They open to reveal a straight
= un
vest piece of whatever In a contrast
ing goods or color you may elect to
make it A white silk shirt or a black
one for that matter will open prettily
upon a vest of pale green or turquoise
blue silk or white tucked lawn In
stead of the shirt fronts lying wIde
open on either edge at intervals of
three inches buttonholes are worked
and by new linked studs the front are
held firm but open at certain points
of the vest
Thus has a new species of shIrt waist
f
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I I given rise to a new type of shirt stud
and the JDakers of such ornaments are
turning out more or less widely linked
studs set with moonstones In silver
opals eats eyes and star sapphires
The cuffs of these shirts are not con
trnrywise held by link buttons too but
the sleeves fall in slightly to wrist
bands that are wIde soft and clasp the
wrists closely By three buttons sewed
on to each band and three silken loops
the cuffs are made fast Of course the
six buttons requir for this Purpose
are oHop pretty cabochon jewels with
gold shanks
ILLUSTRATIONS OF FASHIONS
The three most adaptable types of
fichu to gowns that by a touch can be
brought Into line with the preva ling
mode accompany the text this week
One of these kerchief draperies is es
pecially designed forthe furbishing up
of an evening gown f r a young lady
The model from whichthe drawing was
made displayed a ke l fitting low
necked body of blue p u de sole and
over th shoulder was flung a handker
chief of the palest lavender Liberty
silk edged With a ddep flounce of the
same AU about the verge ot the
flounce ran a thick ruck of blue silk
vIolets set on in a dbuble row A soft
knot of these blossoms held the fichu in I
place on the shoulder and the wearer
of the pretty drapery clasped her neck
wIth a doS collar of corals and blue
crystal Venetian beads
The fichu for a stouter woman and
for wear Indoors is given in another
figure This big kerchief falls over the
shoulders of a tea jacket made of white
Madeira embroidery over rose color
Of the simplest white Brussels net the
fichu itself is made and frilled with
net Along the frill run three rows of
black velvet bebe rIbbon and three ro
settes of this ribbon fastens the fichu
on either side to the jacket
4 black figured grenadine made over
white silk linings is the material of the
third model Here the cloe drawn ker
chief is of white Limonslne silk edged
wIth black lace and a high black satin
collar with lace ear tips completes the
pretty demIseason toilet
Simple school suits for young people
are not difficult to find at this moment
when the tailors and dressmakers for
boys and girls are as busy as bees See
for example the five young persons
whose wants are so thoroughly consld
ered in the group < ThOr 15yearold girl
wears a basket cloth suit of wood
brown The skIrt is plain the waist
has a tucked yoke with all its front
fullness caught in bY a broad belt of
dark red silk Her zouave jacket is
edged with red leather appliques
stitched on and a collar slmilarj3
trImmed turns over her red silk throat
band
The second miss displays a kilted
skirt of green French cloth worn with a
darker green pleated waist of cordu
roy Over the corduroy pleats extend
tracerIes of tan colred silk needle
work and a wide tan leather belt
clasps her waist The sleeves are of
cloth and high green cloth leggins but
ton over the laced shoes
Two studies in small boys coats and
a cloth school suit as shown in the
picture can hardly fail to give ideas to
the inquiring maternal mind Both of
the coats are of whipcord of winter
weight and the suit is a finely striped
winter tweed worn with a stout little
green flannel shirt
MARY DEAN
11
GOLF BELTS
1
The Newest Kittel of Fancy WOrk
TakenUp By the Ladies
Now that the girls have assiduously
pricked their fingers at making kit
bags for the departed soldier boys they I
are turning their attention to the needs
of those at home and almost every I
man fortunate enough to be in the good
graces of somefairl dy is haYing made
for him a g lf belt These are indeed
the very latest things that delight the
eye on the golffield
The golf belt hhs followed in the
wake of the golf waJstcoat that was
worn a season ago ai d upon which it
s an improvement It is not so clum
sy and still has all the style and gives
the same touch of color to the costume
that the waistcoats were desirable for
doing To make thEiri1 is very simple
and done quickly being the broadest
kind of worsted work
The measurement of the waist for
whom the belt is intended must first
be taken Then 3 zOne is cut of the
dimensIons out of crtnvass such as is
generally used for filling in slippers in
crossstitch Usually the zone is fash
ioned with a pOint at the top and bot
tom of the front only although there
is also a fancy formaklng two points
at the top to one at the bottom of the
belt It is cut tohip little and fast
ens at the side After the belt is prop
erly shaped and cUj it is stamped
crosswise with parallel lines not cuite
haIr an inch part A heavy Roman
silk is then taken and long stitches are
made from one of the lines to the one
Jpposite working at right angles to the
stamping and so that the canvass is
well covered
When the filling in with silk is done
trips of stiff paper are cut to cover
the sIlk and are held in place while
r they are worked over with long stitches
of double zephyr worsted in exactlY the
I same manner as the silk has been done
The working of the belt is then com
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AUTUMN SCEOO LOTZ
plete excepting for what is called the
cutting and fluffing With a sharp pair
of scissors the lines of worsted are cut
through the middle from the top
to the bottom of the belt The
use of the paper then becomes
apparent as it prevents the seth
sqrs from going through into the under
lriyer of silk The two halves of the
worsted lines that are throith uP to
geez jy the cutting are ruffed up
by the points of the scissors until they
fcrm a compaethigh rIdge while the
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silk appears on each side as a ground
work The finer the mesh of the can
vaSs that is used in consistence with
getting the worsted through the more
body the ridge of worsted will have
and in consequence will be the pret
tier
Two colors are always used for these
belts that of the silk being much light
er than the worsted Red and white
makes a beautiful belt or maize yellow
and brown The belts have three whale
bones stitched on the wrong side of the
front to secure the poInts from rolling
I up and they are lined throughout with
silk to match one of the shades that
has been uFed A cairngorm orna
ment fastci the belt at the side and
adds the lishing touch in making it
extremely odd and pretty All true
golfers are glad to boast the possession
of such a belt
Ie
ASMAK AND CHAR CHAFF
Why the Sultan Ordered Successive
Changes In the Costume of Ladies
of the Harem
BY CLEVELAND MOFFETT
When I was in Constantinople a few
mcnths ago I found an odd state of af
fairs existing in regard to the dress of
J
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Turkish women notably in regard to
the covering of their faces I am re
ferring now to Turkish women of the
better class those wno belong to the
more important harems and are able
to clothe themselves in the richer
stuffs From time immemorial it has
ben the custom of the land than
which no law is stronger for such
women to appear upon the streets or in
their caiques on the Bosphorus or in
the cuecr bullock wagons that ta1t
them for Friday afternoOn picnics on
the hills of Scutari wearing the feradji
and the yasmak the former a sort of
cape with sleeves under it the latter
an arrangement of gauze veiling that
covers everything of the face except
the eyes
Thus clad the ladies went about free
ly in the streets of Stamboul driving
sharp bargains at the bazaars with
men of their own rae or crossing the
Galata bridge made their way to Pera
the European quarter and went shop
ping on the European plan at the Bon
Marche Sometimes they went on foot
sometimes in carriages and were near
ly always accompanied by a discreet
female slave fr already the old das
of jealous guardianship by ferocious
eunuchs with scimiters were in the
past
It is to be presumed that this greater
eedom accorded to Turkish ladles
came to them as a sweet privilege and
stirred in their breasts that desire for
admiration which is strong in all
daughters of Eve Nw that European
influences had Dermittec1 nem to step
from behind the heavy alls anti lat
ticed windows that used to guard hem
why should they not get that thrill of
pleasure which comes from the homage
should
of men even strangers Why
they not those of them who were fair
let the world see as they passed by
not only the languorous glow of their
dad eyes but the red of their lips and
the smoothness of their brows and
their perfect teeth Plainly there was
only the yasmak with its white folds
to prevent such a revelation and thIs
obstacle might be done away with by
making the gauze thin enough so thin
as to be almost transparent And the
new fashion spread from one harem to
another until it came to pass a few
ears ago that the real beauties of
constantinople were offering their faces
to the practically unobstructed gaze of
F
rTh4fri
whoever cared to look the only women
who clungto the thicker yasmak of I
old being those who had no beauty to
reveal < I
THE SULTANS DISCOVERY
And all went merrily in the Turkish
capital with many smiles through the
flimsy folds and many looks that
seemed to say to some dashing Turk I
ish officer or elegant European I am
glad you think me beautiful but one I
day the sultan strollIng about in his
t
rose garden passed near some < < Turkish
women who had come to visit the ladies
of his palace And one of the visitors
who was exceed ngl fair and knew
It instead of withdrawing modestly
and casting down her eyes as usage
commanded stoQd before Abdul HamId
unblushingly uncovered or at least
veiled with so fine a gauze that it might I
as well have been nothing And the
sultan on investigating the matter and
learning how the new fashIon was
threatening Turkish notions of mod
esty issued no proclamation that the la
dies of Constantinople when they went
abroad should wear the jasmak no
longer but another garment called a
charchaff a great shawl enveloping the
body from head to foot with a piece at
the front falling down over the face
like a mask
As the charchaff is made of satin or
silk there was no longer any possibility
of the ladies gratifying their vanity
indeed when you see a Turkish woman
thus attired you see nothing at all no
more than if a blaCk bag was moving
by with a rather ungraceful swaying or
waddling Sometimes the black bag car
ries in its arms a baby or a parasol
On several occasions I amused my
self by snapping pictures of these wo
men wearing the charchaff and one of
them is herewith reproduced It shows
a number of Turkish ladies of the bet
l ter class disembarking ironi a Bos
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THE CEABCEAFF
phorus fem boat each one looks eX
actly like the other and each one ii as I
well disguised as if she were at a mas
querade ball I
A VIRTUE OF NECESSITY I
I And it was exactly here that the sul
tan overreached himself True he made
I the ladies put away the allurIng yas I
mak and hide their faces but he could
not make them indeed what sovereign
I
could abandon the ways of coquetry
The lessons from the west had been
taken all too well to heart and the fas I
cination of conjugating the verb tq
flirt had become too genrall under
stood So with oriental finesse the
Constantinople ladies proceeded to
make a virtue of necessity and put to
use the very weapon that had been
used against themthat is made the
charchaIT further their mlle affairs of
the heart far better than the yasmalt
had ever done For now nothing was
easier to elude the vigilance of any
prying eye thank to an outer garment
which made Fatima different in no re
spect from Negdar or Zahra or Sophia
or any other charming lady who might
be going about the city for purposes
of her own
If a black shrouded figure passed
through some little door and into a par
ticular house who could know or say
whether it belonged there or in some
other house And at the hOliday gath
erings on the Sweet Waters of Asia
when the whole winding stream with
its shading cypress trees swarmed wiTh
caiques in which sat laughing women
who were to decide whether the amia
ble Turk in the stern beside this wo
man or that woman was there by rIght
of proprietorship or by no right at all
save that which lovers take to them
selves For it must be borne in mind
that n one in Turkey neither soldier
nor officer of the law would think of
laying hands upon a woman Of bidding
her show her face since a womans
person is sacred throughout the sul
taiis realm except to her husband I
No doubt the harem beauty who
flirted thus ran a certain risk She I i
might wake up some morning and find
herself neatly sewn in a bag at the
bottom of the Bosphorus for Turkish
husbands do not trifle with these mat I
ters But when pray did woman let
the thought of danger quell the I I
promptings of her heart
After about a year of the charchatt
regime the pashas and men of influ I
ence e decided that things were going
badly in their harems that the women
were no longer content to sit there all
day putting henna on their fingernaIls I
and stuffing themselves with sweet I
meats and waiting resignedly for their I
lord and master to favor one of them I
with word or look Rebellion was i
brewing among them and the heresy i
of European notions was working saa
havoc They did not even believe any
longer that they were born to be mens i
slaves and created to serve mens
pleasure And the charchaff was of I
ferIng them practical immunity for j
very different purposes
EMANCIPATION I
So from one side and another ap
peal was made to the sultan that the
women might be allowed or compelled
to put aside the dissimulating char I
chaff and go back to toe yasmak which
at least made it possible to tel who
was who and was now regarded as b3
far the lesser of two evils What con
sultations and discussions went on in
the big white Yildiz KiosCJu no one
knows but at last less than a year
ago a new proclamation was issued
which was so queerly worded that it
practically gave women the choice of
dressing as they pleased so long as
they made some pretense of covering
their face which meant of course
that even in Turkey women were be
ginning to get their own way 1
About this time 1 made the acquaint I
ance in Constantinople of an American
dentist who has the honor of 100kJng
after the sultans teeth and in conse
quence has many patients both men
and women among the highest classes
He has spent hours in various harems
and has thus been able to make the
I acquaintance of many TurkIsh w9men I
I and study theIr characters and pecu
r
< r 5
liarltles At his earlier vIsits the chic
euntwh would remain in the room
while he did his work but afterwards
he would be left free from surveillance
and could chat with the women as he
pleased He assured me that they are
like n lot of schoolgirls except that
they have far less instruction than the
average European schoolgirl and that
they would worry his life out with
questions about the women of America
Endless in their curiosity to know how
our women dress down to the smallest
detail how they spend theIr time and
especially what use they make of the
wonderful freedom given them by
AmerIcan men Already many of them
in the house wear European dress the
veils and charchaffs being put on only
when they go out of doors Many of
them too are studying French and
English with native governesses to
teach them and are reading with a
great thirst for knowledge such books
In those languages as come into their
hands
Are there many pretty ones I
asked of the dentist among these
Turkish women
10f course there are a few he said
but most of them are fat and coarse
looking and altogether uninteresting
You know a Turk doesnt think a
woman is beautiful unless she has a
figure zlike a beerbarrel
5e they intelligent
Some of them are very and no
doubt many would develop into fine
women if they had half a chance
that is if they had better instruction
and a decent religion It is my opinion
that they are getting pretty sick of
being treated as animals witl10llt
souls
I have no doubt the American den
tist is correct in this opinIon and these
recenlrevolutionary happenings wit
the yasmak and the charchaff are sig
nificant other things to comethey
sho w the way thewind is bowing
Never Knew It
Yonkers Statesman BillDid you read
about that fellow writing a poem on a
50 bill I
Jll1No the editor kept It of course
No he returned it I
Wbat An editor return a 5 bill
Yes he dIdnt kiiv what it was
The Count
Philadelphia North American r am
much flattered by your proposal count
said the girl from Chicago I
And 10 beautful AmerIcane weal not
say mc na
hOb no simply nit
Great Sea Captain
Philadelphia Bulletin Who was the
best advertised sea captain I
Why Norh His method of advertis
Ing flooded the country
Quiet
London Sporting Times Pa
Oh be quiet I
PaWell
Well what Is It
Ybat did tHe Dead sea die > on
All Good
Boston Traveler EthelI have had
fully a dozen otters of marriage lately I
udlercy me Good ones
EtnelYes All from George
COULD NOT SLEEP
t
Mrs Pinkham Relieved Her of An
J
Her Troubles
Mrs MADGE BwcoCK 176 Second
St Grand Rapids Mich had ovarian
trouble with its attendant aches
and pains now she is well Here
are her on words
c Your Vegeta
Q ble Compound has
7
made me feel like
a new person
Before I be
gan taking it
I was ail run
down tel t tired
and sleepy most
of the time
bad pains in
my back and
side and such
terrible
headaches
all the time
I andcouIdnot
jc sleep well
nights I al
so had ovarian
trouble Through
the advice of a
frien I began I
the use of Lydia E I
Pinkhams Vege
table Compound
and since taking
+
it all troubleshave gone Mymonthly
sick1es used to bE so painful but have
not had the slightest pain since taking
your medicine I cannot praise your
Vegetable Compound too much My
husband and friends see such a change t
in me I look so much better and have
some cotorinmy face
Mrs Pinkham invites women who are
ill to write to her at Lynn Mass for
advice whiCh is freely offered

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