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The Ogden standard-examiner. [volume] (Ogden, Utah) 1920-current, December 24, 1922, The Standard - Examiner Sunday Feature Section, Image 23

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn85058393/1922-12-24/ed-1/seq-23/

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New Costumes In Beicte Tones I
I BY SXRA MARSHALL COOK I
Suit of tan velours trimmed with braid,
I
Three-Piece Suits
I
-UK dress with jacket to
1 match has conic to be one
J. of the mainstays of fashion.
It is the smartest costume
that one enn have for general day-
K time wear, and with the dress cor.-I
isi$u'ng of the cloth skirt attached to
I a blouse of chiffon, which may he
pleated or embroidered, it becomes
I a dressy n v. r a practical gar
I Bent
i Pain brulc, or burnt bread, a I
lovely shade, which is closely akin j
to the beige shade, is used in many.
t of the smartest models which are
Kbcin: made for midscason and early '
;:Riprin?. An interesting coat deL'!-
B oped in cloth of this shade is em-
broidcred in dark blue, the embrold- 1
Htry appearing down the sides,
the roll collar and forming a deep
torder on bell-shaped sleeve?. The
The Cloth Dress With Jacket to Match ;
Plain Brule Is the Shade for the
Early Spring; Interesting Em
broideries on Dresses
and Coats.
panel-like front ard loose-fitting
back arc entirely plain ,
Fur Cuffs Give the
Appearance of Muffs
Jl 5T below the deep and exagger
ated p.rmholes are loop-like pan-
els which are set onto the body of
the coat, giving the appearance of I
being cut in one with the sides. I
These pieces are heavily embroid
ered inside and out, carrying out
the embroidery design, which ex
tends from the shoulders to the bot
tom of the coat.
Among the suits that came over
from Paris is one of taupe cloth, with
high, muffling collar and deep cuffs I
j of fur. Seven-eighths sleeves of
i fur as Well US deen rnffu nnrl hiorVi I
enveloping collars of fur are still
used on suits. Some of the collars
arc so high that they leave only
the eyes visible. On this suit the
cuffs extend nearly to the turn of
the elbow, the fur being worked
around the sleeves almost like
muffs,, so that when the arms are
bent these huge fur cuffs easily
give the appearance of elongated
muffs. This is one of the ways of
cheuting dame fashion, for the muff
is still considered an unnecessary
ai Ci UOTJ of dress and it is there
fore not at all smart.
Elaborate Embroideries
On a Black Jersey Suit
TPHE cut of this suit is very like
that of a coat or coat-dress, the
I coat reaching nearly to the bottom
I of a straight, narrow skirt. There
j is a straight panel of the cloth front
I and back about nine inches in
I width wmch extends from the nock
' line to the bottom of the coat. Three
slightly circular flounces about fie
inches in width, starting irom a low
waistline, are placed at even inter
vals down the sides of the jacket
These disappear under the long
straight panels, which are at the
back and front, making these two
parts of the coat Identical.
Another type of suit is developed
in black silk jersey cloth, trimmed
with elaborate embroideries in
black, gold and silver at the back
( nly. Deep bands of black fur edge
the bottom of the jacket and form
a high collar. The fullness of the
jacket is drawn in over the hips,
leaving back and front portion
perfectly flat. The skirt if cut on
straight lines, the only trimming
being loop panels of the cloth at
Suit of Kasha doth in the shade
knovn as Pain Brule or burnt
bread The blouse portion of
the dress is of chiffon and the
coat has a sable collar.
either side. These extend below the
edge of the skirt. smart Lev is
toque of black plush with a casi .
of natural coque feather was v ?B
with this suit.
Rough Woolen Topcoats
In Creamy Bicge I ones
AN INTERESTING three-piece
suit is of black velours do
laine with gray fur forming a high
turnover collar, cuffs and a band
which extends the entire length of
the jacket at either side of the front
opening. All the fullness of the
jacket is massed over the hips. From
under this fullness on either sir!
comes a line of black embroidery
which slants down toward the mid
dle, meeting the bands of fur. Em
broidery is worked in the same way
on the sleeves, continuing, as i '
wow, the line of embroidery on the
jacket.
The dress accompanying this coat '
shows the skirt of velours de laine.
whilo the low-waisted bodice of
black crepe de Chine hangs in a
straight, unbroken line from the
! shoulders, the model being beltlesi
Rough surfaced woolens in
creamy beige tones are being made
up into very attractive top .oat
: One, developed in this material and
i cflor, is trimmed with kolinsky fur
It is long, of full box cut una
, fastens with a single button of the
I material just above the v.aistiine.
i Four bands of kolinsky form loo'e
1 ani :.mple sleeves, which join the
I whole m aterial at an extremely low
undirann seam, in th;.s manner
' formi g seven-eighths length fur
sleeves. Th fur which form- the
high collar is worked vertically, and
as this collar is of somewhat cxag
I gerated height only the eyes of the
wearer are visible. A smart l.v
to be worn with this coat is a small
turban of velours and fur.
I Sable Worked in Circles
J On a Collar and Yoke
5 ELLOWISH beige wool is used
for a new topcoat, which Is
made with a deep yoke and a high j
collar of sable worked in circles.
The deep armholes are outlined
with a fine, old-silver thread em
broidery. The lining is of a pale
beige satin, with a pronounced
cubist pattern in black and white.
Among the very luxurious man
i ties is a wrap of Russian sable
i showing a double cape ami irigll
;! turnover muffling collar. The fur
' at the bottom of the upper cape,
I which comes to just the line of the
hips, is worked In four horizor.U'l
bands, forming a sort of border.
tu. fnrmini' h? entire mantle.
with this one exception, is used ver
tically, including the ample collar,
which falls down to the shoulder".
The lining is one of those beautiful
hand-embroidered satins which
adorn so many of the day and eve
ning wraps seen at smart gathering.
A ery smart little hat to match
I this is of sable, the sole trimming
being a tiny ornament of jade green
beads in Oriental design
A dressy afternoon costume is oT
beige silk and chiffon embroidered
in brown silk. The chiffon forms a
deep apron tunic, which extends to
I the bottom of the skirt and the
lower portion of the bell-shaped
sleeves. The bodice and foundation
skirt are of the silk, the former be
! ;ng heavily embroidered across the
front and underarm sections. At
the bick there is a rather broad and
, loose-hanging panel of the silk
i
At the right Jur
consisting of a !
rcs and coal of
navy blue Rerlaint YX""'
trimmed with gray U
rabbit fur. I he L
pockets arc of the
fur Vrith a trim-
ming of rose, V
while and blue
braid.
which extends from the shoulders I
to the waistline I'nder thii pan.! 1
a deep sash passes and knot- at the
left side back at a medium waistline
Another chiffon and silk model l:i
the same shade is embroidered in
uull gold It has an underslip of
the silk embroidered down each
s;de with the gold thread m par.ol
likc form, this being the only por
tion of the slip not veiled by the 1
chiffon. A chiffon skirt is cut with
a hip yoke and apron panel front
am' back, the former n.-me: divided
I and embroider down each edge.
! The bodice across the front is
covered with the gold embroidery
while the slightly blouslng back is
plain, with the exception of a s. lall
1 dot design, which also trims the
sprm tunic.
Printed Foulard Trims
A Beige Serge Dress
OEIGE ei used foi simple
one-piece coat-dress trimmed
with a printed foulard, blue, striped
with yellow The bodice portion
shows the back panel cut in one
with the right-side front Dortion and
j the deep sash girdle, the ends of
the latter and the revers being lined
Uvith the foulard. The drcs9 fastens
low on the left side in surplice fash
ion with three galalith buttons of
the same shade as the material. It
I has long sleovcs which are of the
' same cut as those in a man's coat,
Tailored suits of blue serge in
straight box coat effect arc being
brought out for early spring. In
I ij
7 Above UUuh brodcluth costume consisting of a diet
and coat trimmed tinli beaver and a black cloth dre f
i With trimmings of red and gold rruij. I he t.ape is a
iahed across the bach and along the sleeves to the elbow
" with rfjio' The corporal ,u i5 in hecping v.ulh th: dress. j
r-T ill
ne model, the plainness of the
acket is relieved by a sort of cut
vurk done on the body, the itdgea
f which are plcoted. But in sp'.te
f the fact that this ;ives the im
prcwipn of a series of basque fUpr
:hey remain very fiat. Anof-.c- In
teresting foil ore is the deep collar
RTid broad r.side cuffs of iiand
i rnbvoidered batiste and lace. A
luitable hat for wear with tint JUiH '
is a model of black, trimmed with j
a laree butterfly bow of black Lha".
tilly lace, which is finely wired and
posed on the top of the crown.
Another variation of the box- i
coat idea is seen in a model devct
oped in beige gabardine trimmed
with a novelty braid in black ard
beige. The collar is of the high,
muffling type, though it stands
away from the neck and the cuffs
are broad' and flaring. Many of the
new skirts show box-pleated or
knife-pleated panels set in or al
lowed to hang loose, always prc
BOTving the straightline effect.
A dressy afternoon costume of
Oriental feeling developed in black
satin has the. trouser skirt and loosc
i fitting surplice blouse bodice. The
1 transparent sleeves, bell-shaped ard
i full length, are of jade green
; chiffon. Tho elaborate f.
i Oriental g.rdlo is the j
novel fcatdrc. This is de- A
veloped in gold and silk ; -fy
strands threaded through j
Lomposition slides of jade I NjwS
green inlaid with black, 1mVw
H
' y ' Carved Chinese handle on a blue umbrella and an amber babcldc hnoh ( Rj
RJr 7 fty hnn11c on a hro"'n onc- Thc purjc is of palcnl lcathrr a Chmeie dc'
m

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