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I ASMONS AND lADS OF THE HOHENTWlfif '
III fASHION DEMANDS THE USE OF THE SASH END COSTUME OF CITRON LANSDOWNE. SINGLE 8Mb end. rightly placed at on cMp of the back nr exactly at the center front. Rives much style to a simple frock. This costume of citron has tub and sleeves of yellowish silk that bring It up to modishn - I j CAKE MAKING RULES j I. ELL known cooking Instructor tells her pupils: In baking cake divide the time re f quired Into quarters. First Quarter, mixture should begin to rise. Second quarter, continue rising and begin to brown. Third quarter, continue brown ing. Fourth quarter, finish baking and brink from pan. If oven Is too hot open check and j raise back covers or open oven door. It Is sometimes necessary to cover cake with brown paper- There Is. how- j ever, danger of cake adhering to tho i paper. Cake should be often looked at dur ing baking. Provided oven door Is open ed and closed carefully there Is no dan ger of cake falling. Cake should not be moved in oven until fully risen. After this tlmo It Is i Hot Weather Tips TTJRTNG hot weather the feet are al I ways likely to swell and grow a little tender. This is very unpleasant I I and painful, but It ran easily be avold- I ed If a certain amount of care is taken. The feet should always be washed . I night and morning with warm water. H They should be dried very thoroughly I and afterward dusted with a little . .i powdered oatmeal, which will help to 1 i remove anv dsitipnciw htween the I I .1 your xeei mnuer alter a long I JV It Is a good plan to soak them ,n H vinegar and water Make tho water 43 ht as you can possibly bear it and ;-M Put In a tablespoonful of vinegar to H ach Pint Sit with your feet in the ;"t, basin till the water gTows almost cold, j.dji OUn dry and powder a? directed above. .kjS The ame pair of stockings should "fsj never be worn on two following da vs. and lf Possible, the shoes should aiso H changed dally. Shoes and stock - -'4?3 m"B -hen not in wear should be left 4 to & draft " that thy may be thor- ' Si oughly well aired and dried. The complexion needs special care I I daring the hot days too. Those who H ar troubled with a skin which tends H t0 grow shiny will find it a good plan to kcp tho rind of a lemon In water I I they wash their faces in. Lemon wa- ter cleanses the pores and removes any flij greaslness from the 6kln, besides being y-gi ' delightfully cooling and refreshing. I The rind should bo thrown away every fr' I days and a fresh one put In Its ' fy-'l place. jC? 18 not t wash or powder your &jL fac when you are very hot. Half an ffSEt hour should bo allowed to lapse till lyjf the first flush has passed, and then ' jfgj warm water should be used, ijflf The hair sometimes tends to grow Bret limp and straight in great heat It cgW can be made soft and fluffy again very' 1 quickly by the following treatment: I kEH Brush It off the face and plait or coll i 3$ the long ends out of the way. Now j lg take a large puff dipped Into scentless i Hi orris root powder and puff the head WM EMcklj all over. Let the powder remain there for a RK few minutes, then shako out as much SK possible and brush out the rest with i D9 a at.ff bruab 1 H LHHIH Hl desirable to move It so that It will brown evenly. Cake when done shrinks from the P"in and does not retain Indentation when pressed with tho finger. Place cake as nearly in center of oven as possible. If too near firebox one side will burn before the other side Is cooked. If cake Is put In too slow oven It rises over sides of pan and Is coarse In texture If oven Is too hot It browns before sufficiently risen and In Its attempt to rise breaks through the crust. Cake will crack lf too much flour has been used. The oven should be kept as nearly uniform In temperature as possible. Small and layer cakes require a hot ter oven than loaf cakes. RIBBON TOUCHES ON THIS PRETTY .BLOUSE ; i W ' mflfifSH i. j!?fiBS - OF AOARIC STRIPED CRAPE. JANT are the ways in which ribbons are used this season. Here Is a smart tunic blouse of agaric striped crape trimmed with buff ribbon plcot edged In black. The ribbon la mitered to form a square collar, and straps of It arc used on the sectional belt. PIE CRUST IN HOT WEATHER. QNLY those that have tried it know the real difficulty there 1 in roH'r out pie crust In the hot summer weath er VI hep everything is hot and melt ing the dough will persist In staking to the rolling pin unless a great deal of flour Is used and that takes the rich hess from the plo crust An excellent way to remedy this annoyance is to make a rolling pm of a botti. Choose a large, round, smooth bottle. flJJ if with ice water and cork tightly I It's the Original In Dress That j I Appeals This Season i THE old. old fear of seeing one's frocks duplicated Is almost a thing of the past, for this sea ' son the object of every well gowned woman Is to originate her own frocks For years one of the big feminine troubles of the times has been that when a particular mondalne discovered the only costume that WU fit for her wear, lo and behold, she would find that some other woman had been seized with the same Inspiration, and the two discoverers gowned in copies of the same French creation, would find themselves fellow guests at some func tion. The "little girl" frocks, the tube gowns, simple gathered dresses and other modes have been of inflnite valu to the copyist, bvt now every woman can be unique in her attire. There are so many stvles thst the most nlcrt brain and eye would find it difficult to reproduce them all. Another result of the original In dress Is that a'.l costumes are striking now adays. If not In their entirety, at least In features. Even the navy has been resorted to In search of designs, and the naval dress of navy blue with gold braid and buttons and the admirals costume have been evolved in conse quence. Among the many styles being worn this summer one might mention In passing naval designs. masculine modes (consisting of plain cutaway i coats with checked skirts) and floral I frocks draped in everv conceivable! manner, with a suggestion of panniers In their makeup. Other floral costume j effects are stiff little bunched up silk affairs with stiff frills turner! about the' neck. Then there aro military and N'a- poleonlc costumes, and. speaking of the latter vogue, a chnrmlng three-quarter coat for wear over summer lingerie frocks was seen at a seaside resort of j bright grass green cponge cloth trim- . med In first empire fashion with white t ' braid But. to come back to our original proposition distinctive summer modes dresses are profusely trimmed with Bulgarian errata, dresses have sashes tied In Japanese kimono fashion, and there are gowns with furny little talis falling over a wide band. Then there i I are stiff, prim little coats, with skirts, Of other colors and materials. Even In ! wash materials the:e contrasting cf- I fects are fashionable. For Instance, It '.a mighty modish to wear a little coatee of mauve or blue linen trimmed aoout with puffings of the linen with our white wash trot ting skirt, and a particularly sporty coatee is of wide black and white wash able material. With this the summer girl dons a white crash skirt, white buckskin nhoes and a nifty little rough straw snllor, displaying a very narrow brim and band of black ribbon tied In a pump bow at the back of the crown. This hat Is worn well back on the head so that the new French bang may be In evldonce. Indeed. It would be Impossible to de scribe the hundreds of different drap ing and the many contracts in fabrics which render the work of the copyist an Impossible task this season. With all these styles to choose from anv woman -an gown herself In an original fashion, secure in ' the feeling that her dress will not have a "double.-' Tho yachting costume of the season Is the only exception to the rule of originality that prevails in fashlondom It consists, as usual, of an ankle length skirt of white duck, serge or wool and mohair mixture and a very Jaunty dou ble breasted coat of dork blue cloth, worn over a white blouse open at the n k. Many women wear the regula tion yachting cap with a vlsored front, but this style of headgear Is becoming to few of the feminine sex. A soft brimmed, not too large, white panama Is quite as correct and usually looks much better. Footwear for yachting Is an Impor tant detail of the costume worn on a breezy dek. Many yacht owners In sist that their guests shall wear rub ber soled deck shoes while aboard, but on the club veranda trim white buck skin buttoned boots give a smart and dainty finish to a boating costume. Such an outflt Is absurdly out of place when one's "yachting" Is done on a small motorboat or sailboat, where white duck skirt, loose collared blouSe rind knitted sweater seem to "fit the picture" best. CATHERINE TALBOT. EDUCATING "EXCEPTIONAL" CHILDREN UJT Is often the exceptionally bright child, even the genius, whom we And on the wrong side." says rr Maxi milian F. E. (Jrosrmann. discussing the education of exceptional children In the annual report of the United States commissioner of education Just Issued. The stupid and weak minded criminal Is not as dangerous as the clever anil Intellectual criminal." Dr. Groszmann urges that public at tention be directed to all types of ex ceptional children, not merely to the feeble minded and degenerate, who. no matter how undesirable a factor they may be In society, are by no means the whole problem. He points out that the problem of the exceptional child is by no means merely the problem of the "defective" or the "subnormal" or the "abnormal" child. Often It is a case of misdirected ability on the part of a gifted mind or the problem of child growth and development as affecting criminal tendencies. Sometime It Is 1 vocational failure, due to improper vo cational education, or It may be a prob lem arising from racial differences, to gether with the difficulties of social adjustment In a nation which has grown through Immigration. Real progress, particularly in dis tinguishing between the various types of exceptional children. Is reported by Dr. Groszmann. He considers the great lesson of the year to be the need for I Intelligent, united effort on the part of i educators, medical men. social workers, charity organ Izations, welfare socle ties. Juvenile courts and other agencies that have been active in the endeavor to remedy early neglect of exceptional conditions. His point Is that each of i these separate agencies Is doing com mendable work, but that they must now Join forces. Dr Groszmann asks compulsory edu cation for all children, "exceptional - as well a others. He contends that It Is a mistake to exempt the exceptional I child from the compulsory law. He de clares: ' The very children who need special attention and who may he-r,me burdens and dangers to society are dependent for their education, special training and custody upon the good will of their pirents, who are often enough disin clined to follow the right course. We need legislation which would establish the right of the commonwealth to di rect th education and training of every child and which would secure to the state and municipality an authority which cannot be superseded by pa rental prejudice. We also need legis lation which would establish such a board or boards as can regulate and determine the disposition which la to b made of every child according to his need and the good of the community." A little flour sifted into the fat before frying mush will prevent the fat from sputtering and Hying. How to Wash Silk Waists J ALWAYS wash my own silk blouses, said a clever girl recently, and have done so for ages. Indeed, It never oc curred to me until the other day that my friends dldn t all do the same Th n a neighbor of mine came In to see me. wearing a silk shirt which looked ex actly as lf It had spent a week In the rag bag. I happened to know that It was near ly new, but It looked particularly dreadful not a bit of gloss or stiffness about It anywhere, to say nothing of J the nasty yellow marks down the front. ' Yes, Isn't It awful?' my friend sigh ed as she saw me glance at her handi work, 'and It's quite a new one too. I washed It myself as an experiment, and this Is the result.'- How did you do It?" I asked "Oh. with ordinary soap and hot wa ter." she answered, "but It was the ironing that did It. I think. You see. ij haven t got the proper apparatus that the laundries use." I couldn t help laughing at that, for all the "apparatus" I possess Is an or dinary household Iron, a small aleeve board and a baby Iron for the gathers I could manage with only the big Iron almost as well. too. aa I told my friend. "Well. I wish you'd tell me how you do yours so nicely." she said. "They always look much better than mine." Two Useful Recipe. Til tell you with pleasure." I said, "and I'm sure you'll be surprised to hear how simple it Is To begin with, you had better copy out these two recipes " "Recipes?" said my friend In sur prise. "Whatever for?" "For the washing of a silk blouse," I laughed. "I should never think of starting without them. The flrst one Is for soap Jelly, which it quite easy to make. "Collect any odd bits of white soap you may have and shred them finely with a knlfo. Put them In a saucepan, cover with hot water and melt over the Are until the soap is quite clear and free from lumps, taking care not to fill the pan too full, as soap very easily bolls over. "It la better not to make too much of this Jelly at a time, as It loses Its strength lf kept more than about a week. Also you must be sure to keep a act of the necessary utensils for this purpose only, as soap makes anything taste so very strong. "Gum water Is the other recipe you will need. For It you want one ounce of the best gum arable and half a pint of boiling water. Place the gum (which must be the very best obtainable or It will leave brown stains ) In a Jug and cover with the boiling water, allowing It to dissolve slowly. "I find It best to place the Jug on the oven top in the morning and leave It there until tho evening, giving It an occasional stir during the day. then Ii take It off and strain It through mus- j lln and bottle. This will keep for months. -You should make both these a day OF two before you intend to wah the I blouse lit la far cheaper to wash sev- ' eral at a time if pocSir,iC)i tnen they will be ready for use. The Actual Washing. "Now prepare the water. You should use soft lf possible and must take care that it la not too hot or too cold, but Just about lukewarm. Put to It enough of tho aoap Jelly to get a nice lather (you must not put too much, as It Is apt to make the silk yellow) and you are ready to start washing the blouse." "This part Is easy enough." Inter rupted my friend, "and almost the only thing I really feel capable of doing un aided. I don't think that even I could go far wrong over the actual wash ing." Tin not so certain of that." I then told her. "There are several things you must remember. First, you must take great care not to twist the silk about when wringing It. as this Is liable to break the threads and will In time lead to holes. Also It Is quite unneces sary to rub aoap all over tho blouse, as some people do Simply queeM II gently in both hands until all the dirt has disappeared, only really rubbing soap on to the collar and cuffs. Then rinse It twice In clean warm water and lastly n this solution: One table spoonful of the gum water, one tea spoonful of methylated spirit, one-half pint of lukewarm water. (If the blouse Is a white one add i n or two drops of blue, to make It a good color ) "Rinsing In this solution restores the THE NEW DOUBLE DECKER HAT A PARIS CREATION. fTHE most amazing hat of the season la this double decker affair, with one expensive ostrich shower poised over the other Both feather orna ments are in shades of yellow, the hat being of black velvet. stiffness which Is always found In new silk, and the methylated spirit pro duces a rich gloss. Be careful not to use more than the quantities stated, though, or the silk will be too atlff and j crease easily." ' ! Summer Salads QNTON SALAD. Take a couple of large Spanish onions mild In fla vor and peel them. Place In a aauce pan of cold water and bring them slowly to a boll. Drain and let them soak In cold water for at least seven hours, the water being changed fre quently. Slice the onions thin, sprinkle with chopped parsley, pepper, salt and a few cut chives and mix with oil and vinegar. Watermelon Salad. The early wa termelons make fine salads, tho seed less pulp being cut In cubes or scooped out In balls with a fancy vegetable cut ter. Cut In wedges and used In com bination with grapefruit or orange pulp the watermelon la delicious An ordinary French dressing with Just a dash of sherry or Madeira should be . used Salad Cocktail This decidedly new salad Is made by detaching leaves of lettuce and arranging them like a three leaved clover. Trim base of the leaves so that they will not stand too high and place small cup shaped leaf where the three leaves meet. Fill this with maonr.alse and on each of the three larger leaves place a mound of dlffer ent vegetables, diced or cut In fancy shapes, if French dressing la used In place of the lettuce cup serve the dressing In a green pepper shell. Such an arrangement goes under the name of aalad cocktail because of the re emblancc It bears to the serving of oyster or clam cocktails with the rtrrssing in the center of the receptacle. Cucumber Salad Take thin crisp slices of cucumber and tuck them In between folds of lettuce leaves, start ing with a single small slice at the base und Increasing to two. three and four slices as the fan shaped arrangement spreads Itself. With a spoonful of finely chopped chives sprinkled over the salad Just before serving, this Is a delicious hot weather entree. On the I side of the plate a couple of perfect radishes cut to represent roses may be) placed. Worth Knowing rpO revive oriental carpets they may be cleaned and the colors restored by washing them In sea water or In a solution of sea salt. This Is practiced with success In the far eaat In washing linoleum never scrub with a brush. Wash with tepid water and a dash of soap powder. When done tnb with furniture polish To remove Ink stains from mahogany furniture put a fow drops of spirits of niter Into a teaspoonful of water, touch the spot with a feather dipped In the fluid and Immediately the ink disap pears. Rub the wood with a cloth wet with cold water, lf this la not done there will remain an almost Inerad icable white mark. COOL LITTI f FROCK OF FUTURIST FOULARD IN BLUE ANO'WHITE COLORING. JTUTURlST foulards are the very latest cry. This model In a pretty shade fl bliifl and White I , r1 r hlch a crossed drapery give the correct, clinging 1 1 n- plaited qui - ire .-in old fashioned trla !, m'nc that has teen revived this season, and on this bodice they are particularly 1 I dainty nnd feminine. f : HEALTH DONTS FOR GIRLS ; ) I D0"T slouch, even If It Is thought to be a fashionable pose nowadays. Slouching not only destroys the grace fulness of one's appearance; it also In jures one s health. It prevents the full expansion of the lungs. This keeps the blood from being properly purified end Mis one of the causes of bad and spotty complexions. Don t. lf you value your teeth and i your skin, get Into the habit of eating I I sweets at all hours of the day They , give rise to acidity In tho mouth, and j this Injures the enamel of the teeth and Is a fertile cause of toothache. They also cause acidity of the stomach and sallow skins and bilious head aches often result. Don't think constipation Is a matter of no moment. It i3 apt to bring on TAB FICHUS ARE THE NEWEST THE WIRED MEDICI COLLAR. gOMETIMES the fichu hangs over the bodice front in two round tabs edged with frills. This new bit of French neckwear shows such tabs and also a wired medlcl collar edgvd with frills. Kitchen Wrinkles yyHE.N' next cooking bacon try put ting It In a sieve and pouring boiling water over It; then cover for a few moments with cold water, drying the bacon on a cloth before putting . Into the sizzling frying pan. Some housewives put a little water In the kettle In which milk is to be heated to prevent the milk scorching. Another method Is to sprinkle in a lit tle jrranulated sugar and lot it get hot before pouring In the milk. To wash varnish steep some tea leaves In water for half an hour, then strain them out and use the liquid fori washing the varnhfhed wood. ' all kinds or diseases and Is one of Use) i a of anaemia. Skipping is a splendid exercise for prvveation of j this trouble. Don't get Into the habit of drirklns strong te. wnhout milk in It If you value your complexion. If you Indulge II I often In this practice you will not have I rosy cheeks Don't think that any time will do to have your teeth tilled. A decayed tooth Is ali - .nlng the system ail the 1 time you have It In your mouth A prompt visit to the dentist may sav you an Illness. i L'on't. no matter upon what advice, i r allow a tooth to be crowned wita- I out having the decayed part removed, : " It Is a most dangerous method of try ing to patch up a bad tooth. I j THE BEAUTY CORNER i e eeeeeeeoeeeeeeeeees s npHOUGH vacation days are hailed . wH - mankind in gets- ( eral the th. night of the Journey to tnj resort selected at the seashore, lake of 1 IB mountains is not one of great pleasure. ; , Traveling 15 the bugaboo of th- i-r' W age woman. She Is uncomfortable '"III thi i .irs. hi r p rsonal appearance suf- U f-rs from th-- journey, and. all in siL j f she dislikes the preliminaries to tbi j nummcr vacation. Of course she should not thlnK ot & traveling without a iar of cold creia By rubbing a tiny dab of cream UsW , f? her cheeks and powdering them ove Q sh- can protc.-t her complexion durin. w the ride At night bathe the face care- .' fully in warm water and a bland soP- u seeing to It that the face Is very '-'If1 for the h.-aith of the .skin depends upoo Hl opi ii pores lf ih' skin becomes grUDJ" a. during the day cleanse it by li?" ' P wiping It with cold cream, but do o'1 Jjy, bathe It except at night and mornlnf- I (P It is really the hair that makes j men look most untidy when traveler Leaning against the back of the s'atJ j rubs loose all the short hairs, and e9 the prettiest of women looks unattraf" I tive when her hair Is hanging at'-1 j her face in dejected strands. The-"" j j fore the careful woman carries S"3 f r .--vcral largo hair nets and wrt one every day. fitting it over the ! i J . colls at the back of the neck so no loose hairs can escape- The dust and cinders which get mw I Z the hair when traveling are very j J ljurious to tho hair, and It is neil ! Q to caution you to shampoo your bes Ii as soon as you reach your destination If e NOVEL ORANGE JELLY. ApX together two tablespoonf'Jl P i"L gelatin with a largo cupful j orange Juice, one orange peeled sliced very thin, the Julco of one "mj two cupfuls of sugar and one Plnt boiling water. Let It stand after mix ing It well until It is cold then strata It and stir In tho beaten whites of ' eggs. The latter gives a pretty as frosty effect to tho Jell. . J