Search America's historic newspaper pages from 1756-1963 or use the U.S. Newspaper Directory to find information about American newspapers published between 1690-present. Chronicling America is sponsored jointly by the National Endowment for the Humanities external link and the Library of Congress. Learn more
Image provided by: University of Utah, Marriott Library
Newspaper Page Text
The Standard Magazine Section-Ogden, Utah, October , 1913 H B BBf BBssflsr' BBBBBBgWBrBHMwB I HP 1 ORA ONE, How- few purel) "womanly'1 I things there arc in this world! I Now, one would naturally slate with great emphasis ih.u a mora R womanly thing ouUI not be than t the dainty creation Milady proudly carries atop her mas- ol golden 01 Auburn, nr Lheslnut, or blue-black S hair as the case may be they're l All popular shades. I )"!ut behind It all there is a man I Even as madame is dictated to by a lot of men tailoits and drcssmak K ers as to her street costume after I noon cow nx and evening dresses, 90 has it been dlsco ered that there Is n skillful, far-seeing, designing man directly responsible for the st les in headgear I And the "designing" applied to i man In this Instance rej means flcslcning. Calmlv, coolly, he designs and calculate?. Dispassionately lie sur i ve ihe shape of Milady's face IA Is her nose retrousse? Her chin Ri piquant" Her face Madonna shaped? And her eyes mere Orj- ifnial slit? of jade ? This man milliner become en thused. A few deft twists, a few twirls his little lingers airily point- el a shrug of Hie shoulder.', ele vated eyebrows, pursed lips, six pins tucked in thus and so, and bi hold' IT a hat for the little green-eyed goddess Nor l It Ora ('no fault if thlK hat, designed with the face of the dainty Miladv In mind, falls Into the hands and on to the head of a large, severe featured person, with a very . n.uarr face an.i very wide open eyes. A la la! the esl laid plans of men and milliners Every one, of course knows that the greatest designers of millinery ' and most other things pertaining to dress abide In Parle London has a few, too. ra.i her designs are 1 I mostly of the severely man-like type lit usually outing hats, street hats, H t i 8 r So, when (ir.i Sency. bm rf ob scure parents In a small Ohio ton. ha.! served his apprenticeship as a grocer's clerk, and had decided defi nitely in his own mind that he meant to be a milliner, he went to Pari lino to Paris Seney; Returns 1(01110 Cue. hen he consented to return and cast the light of his delightful lit tle Scotch countenance op Amer ica, he came triumphantly as Ora Cne. It had been much against the grain of the Scney family that .young Ora should prefer, aa a small lad, to make a dress or hat for his sla ters dolls, rather than get out' with a new catcher's hat. a regular league hall and break the neighbors" win dow.''. There were, live girls in tho Sency family, and Ora was depend ed upon (0 pass On the family name, and take from his pat-'rnnl parent's shoulders the arduous duties of run ning the grocery and general mer chandise store at the crOsi roads Ill the Sency Family was a nmiden aunt who possessed an arbitrary and argumentative mind. She was usually found on the wrong side in the family council! Perceiving Ora's marked ability in the milli nery line, this aunt espouse! his cauee, and wn the donor of the money to e.irry Ora abroad, and make it possible for him to return to America and Inflict the last un feeling blow on an aged father .Scney had become Cne. What a ip r I tags for future generational At 40 years of age. Cne la a typi cal "man milliner" In appearance, lie la small, slended. light and agile on his feet. Every gesture, every graceful motion possessed by the most renowned boulevardler of Paris Cne presses into service and add, frequently, a little Ohio bow or '-scrape, of artistic rusticity. i 1 Y ' c L 1 II hats to wear with tailored jorm. The beautiful, dreamy, heavenly Mpionj of delight come from Parls. wjth a price attached and a Ug with a name wlthlc To be a really successful man milliner, then, it would seem odd must either be a Parisian or a good imitation. He has large, round bronn ee? and a most wcji4erful shock of pre maturely gray hiir. which lends the last touch of distinction and ele gance. Although Why a man should be considered either one or the 'ther ' oretlSS '.da ha.r fades In color befora Us time has ner been made clear - 5fip Pret& Hat ON tiefe&i of Milactel First ExstsM the sV IkadofMewMan t sW Ora Cne, Famous "Man v Pl , Milliner," Tells Some WL A. of the Secrets of Pleas- ML t iti J , ing the Fair Sex in Its BR vf J I Ambitions to Wear 1 I Classy Headgear. 1 I M ' PHCT05 by COURTES oj ROSENTHAL . LOAN CO. Cne has opened offices in N.-w Tork and has become America's leading designer of millinery. Id designs hats for every l.irce manu facturer of shapes and material! He does not accept credit for indi vidual bats, as do ile- Parisian mil liners excepting where the hat H designed for an actress or a woman of note. It Is enough that a model which may be duplb ated In a million natr. from the Atlantic to the Pacific is a "Cne hat." When ih - manufacturers pet to gether for a hatfest, alon; alx oi lht months before the time the hat they design will bo worn, "ne is the eentrsl figure. Minion dol lar hat m inufocturers bow heton this )lttf man. Should he not be satistied with them or their ahapes that ts their hats" shapes or he materisls or the colors, or their dollars. It is within his power to smash with a frown their fabric of dreams. Pors he say niallne as a material and trimmed shall not suit his fancy nest spring'. Ia. mallne mannf.u -turers weep silently at the troopn of dollars diverted from their mall order envelopes to tho coffers of the manufacturer of bath towel half or flamboyant flowerr. a: hear) Cnc Is an artlnu Bui this is a cruel wyrld aud oAcu uuo deserts the shrine of art for mere money grubbing 'iu i one of tbo "unhappy unfortunates. " aa he would say "One Hat for Ono Face," His delight Is In modeling one bat fnr one face He takes a true artlat'a pleasure In matching per fectly Milady's VSlVSty -skin and e rjuisilc coloring with a shade cre ated for the time and the woman. He likes to perform little moun tebank tricks, too. For instance, he takes the curtain from the window presto! It Is draped into a lace overthrow for Milady's plain satin gown. The rug from the floor Is Immediately transformed into an artistically draped evening wrap. Again, the throw from the w;ush- stand becomes Milady's street hat A few sheets of colored paper and nn ordnary office waste basket is turn d into B restaurant hat. Now there is another idea for the "man milliners" He would have women have special hats for spe cial occasion' The hal on wrB hopping should nsver ba worn call ing or golfing, or to market Ken ' lng hats are rigidly classod as res taurant hats, theater box hats, chureh bats, muslcgle hats. etc. in enrh of the places the lighting ef fei ts are different. At a theater the light is alter nately from above and from direct ly In front- At the restaurant there la usually the soft, warm glow of a candelabra with a colored shade. At church and at muslcalea it is sub dued light. For each there must hi a different shading on Milady's face. Che would have women always and ever wear veils He has de signed many veils, one of the most successful being the 1 Pctrova," mado first for Olga Pctrova. the ac tress ft Is 20x60 Inches and has n ribbon border. It Is fastened around the hat and hangs down In the back, where, on one corner. Is embroidered the wearer's mono gra m. The "Cne Drape" Is a striking veil, originated 'y Cne. The diag onally folded veil is arranged In a double box plait, which is pinned on the back of the hat or bonnet. This adds height and Is very effec tive. In the "Holland Drapery" th folded veil Is laid over tho hat so that it falls on both sides. The " Bugenta Veil" l "no he has Ual originated and named after ih Empress, who has worn mourning since, 1871. This Is a net veil w-lth n crepe border and is 5 Inches square One corner Is cut out to form a circle about 1" inches around and fastened to this with a band of crepe, la a collar like the OKA CNE. veil, whbh is 15 Inches square. Tt fastens around the neck with a hook and eyo at the band which Joins col lar and veil. Of his more famous models in bats, the Madame asjmova proba bly is the most popular. The orig inal model was In midnight blue mallne, 10 inches across, its effect rather fiat and the brim being waved to create a very artistic effect. One of fne's creations Is the rainbow hat. made b piling layers of morning glory colors. purple, green, White, fuchsia pink and moonlight bine one over the other. His Idea ami chief rule is that any color found In nature can be com bined. Shell pink and lavender, lemon yellow and stone grey, olive green and mahogany, golden brown and bishop's purple, grass green and morning glory or bishop's purple. I JAPAN'S OTHER LAND QUESTION .r.ip-m has another land question besides that In California. Mis sions in Japan, despite the fact that the law does not permit an Amerl r.n to own land there, hold more than (6,000,000 worth of property, made up of schools, churches, hoy pltals, residences and the land on which they stand. "For many years. In fact till 1303. I hrlievc. this property was held In the name; of a few trustworthy Japanese," said the Flev. Hcrron Smith, a Methodist missionary now doing graduate work in Journalism St the University of Kansas. "For Instance. In all central and eastern Japan the Methodist mission held Its property In the name of Senno sukc Ogata, 0 graduate of De Pauw University. He could have sold it or mortgaged it and no one been the wiser, but It speaks well for the dependablenesa of the Christian .In pane that not one of these trustees was unfaithful to his trust. Of course there was a great risk in such a policy for at any time the man might die and no one could foresee what course his heirs might take. At length a law was passed granting to foreigners tho rights of a Juridical person: that Is, a com pany of foreigners might form a corporation which could hold prop erty A smart lawyer was engaged to Into the matter and his In vestigation resulting satisfactorily, the. missionaries of each church, who. whether they are harmless as .loves or not. arc sharp as serpents, immediately urMld themselves into 'shadan' or zaiden,' two kinds of corporations, 'Thus the law Is both obeyed and elided and thus it Is that Ameri cans hold property in Japan Trou bles they have had and still have, and It is not to be wondered at that their hearts do not exai!' go out In sympathy to their protegos in California. "Every since Japan opened her doors to foreigners and their com merce and religion the land ques tion has been a disputed one. When d remember that Japan's area is only that of Kansas and Nebraska J i oxnblned, and that on this land, only J 3 per cent of which Is arable, must live 58,000,000 people, we can understand why Japan has never opened her doors wide to immi grant". ' Fpr many years, til! the consti- ttitlon was promulgated In 18S9, I think, foreigners were required to ine In foreign concessions, aa they w ere called, These were located in Toklo, Osaka, Yokohama, Kobe, 1 Nagasaki and Hakodate and varied I In size from throe acres in Usaka I to j s n a res m Yokohama The tt land within was let to foreigners on perpetual leases, the rate be- I lng about .".iiOO a year, quite high as rates went In those early days i "As years passed these cities f . grew and the concessions became 4 centers or commerce and much in- j r LSed In value. The rental being Stationary became rldlculouslv low. J and though foreign police. Judgsa and jurisdiction Of all kinds were completely done away with The jj llaeue Tribunal upheld the for- i Igners In their right to the land at the uxUlaal 114, I II aj